Construction of cinder block walls. Cinder blocks and their pros and cons. Video. Cinder block its pros and cons

Developers often give preference to block building materials, which speed up the construction of a building, lighten the structure and reduce the load on the foundation. But before building a house from cinder block, you should study the features of this type of concrete, compare its pros and cons, and learn the basic rules for constructing buildings from it. It is advisable to consider standard designs of cinder block cottages or country houses.

To produce lightweight blocks, filler is introduced into the concrete solution in the form of expanded clay, ash, blast furnace and volcanic slag, shell rock, sand, sawdust, brick waste, and crushed stone screenings. After pouring into molds, the mixture is pressed, the blocks are removed from the dies and dried for a month.

The finished material has a number of positive qualities: low weight, low heat transfer coefficient. The optimal thickness of cinder block walls for a house built in central Russia is 0.6 - 0.9 m, in a climate zone with frosts down to - 20 ° C - 0.45 m.

Advantages of cinder block buildings:

• refusal of a massive foundation - usually a shallow shallow foundation made of rubble concrete is chosen;
• no special conditions for transportation and storage of blocks are needed;
• ease of installation - the involvement of specialists for masonry is not required, which allows you to build a house on your own;
• high level of reliability and durability, subject to appropriate waterproofing;
• fire resistance - walls can easily withstand open fire and do not collapse after a fire;
• profitability - this follows from the low cost of the starting material and the labor intensity of the work.

Disadvantages of houses built from cinder blocks:

• instability of the technical characteristics of building materials - associated with the use of various additives; density ranges from 500 to 2,000 kg/m3, frost resistance - from 15 to 30 cycles, thermal conductivity - from 0.3 to 0.65 W/m;
• low moisture resistance;
• the likelihood of using toxic waste in production.

To avoid rapid destruction of buildings, when purchasing material, it is tested for radioactivity and strength (they simply drop the block from a height of 1.5 m - and it should remain intact). Expanded clay, crushed stone, sawdust or brick chips are preferred as filler.

Exterior finishing for a cinder block building is chosen from special high-strength plaster, facing bricks, siding or lining. Thermal insulators are installed under the cladding: mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam. This cladding also increases the sound insulation of the walls.

Turnkey cinder block house projects

In order not to waste time and money on individual design, the developments of professional architects and designers are taken as a basis. How to choose a project? They are presented in catalogues, the sections of which contain photos and descriptions of houses, indicating their overall dimensions and area, list of materials and estimated cost. After choosing an acceptable option, study a set of drawings consisting of:

• architectural - contains the layout of the building, each floor and roof;
• constructive - includes a diagram of the foundation, rafter system, stairs, detailing of components;
• communication – consists of electrical, sewer and water supply parts.

House with attic space

Sometimes developers have a question: is it possible to build a house with an attic from cinder block? The load-bearing capacity of the material allows this to be done, while saving on wall elements. The attic does not require external finishing - it is replaced by a rafter structure, roofing material and roof insulation. A room with pitched walls makes it possible to use it for a gym, office, workshop.

Projects of economy class houses made of cinder blocks with an attic and a garage have their pros and cons. When planning construction, two main questions should be resolved: what will be the height of the floor of the upper floor and what room will be located under the roof. Advantages of houses with attics:

• obtaining additional residential or business space;
• saving building materials;
• original appearance.

Disadvantages of an economy class house with an attic:

• additional heating costs;
• costs for installing a ventilation system;
• installation of inclined double-glazed windows;
• with low ceilings there is a problem with the interior furnishings.

The Dream House company offers designs for attic houses made from YTONG cellular autoclave blocks with a thickness of 50 to 500 mm.

1. Meissen Cottage. The dimensions of the building are 18.4x12.85 m, the total area is 270 m2, of which 116.7 m2 is occupied by the attic. On the ground floor there is a living room, an office, a kitchen and a storage room. The second floor is reserved for three bedrooms, separated by a hall. The garage is designed for two cars, its area is 35 m2, and there is an attic space above it. According to the project, it is planned to use wall cinder blocks 500 mm thick.

Two-storey house

Before starting construction of a two-story house made of cinder block, it is proposed to consider projects from the Dream House company.

1. "Captain". The dimensions of the cottage are 14.3 x 10.7 m, the total area is 154.8 m 2. 94.5 m2 is allocated for the first floor: there is a terrace, kitchen, living room, boiler room and hallway. The second floor occupies 60.3 m2, there are two bedrooms and a dressing room. The slope of the asymmetrical gable roof on one side rests on columns, thereby creating a covered parking lot for a car. The project includes YTONG blocks with a thickness of 500 mm.

2. Bielefeld. Country house with a glazed balcony-dining room and a large terrace. The dimensions of the building are 10.2 x 9.8 m. The total area is 157 m2, including: first floor - 87.3 m2, attic - 69.8 m2. On the ground floor there are two living rooms, two terraces and a kitchen, on the second floor there is a dining room and two bedrooms. The house is intended for seasonal living, so 300 mm thick blocks are used for its construction.

Whatever building material is chosen for building a house, it will certainly have positive and negative properties. If we take cinder block slabs for consideration and carefully examine this material, we will learn a lot of interesting things.

And this will be the final decision for choosing this product. Knowing all the pros and cons will allow you to protect yourself from all sorts of problems in the future.

Pros and cons of cinder blocks

The building material made from cinder blocks can be called universal, because it is simply used in all types of construction. The construction of houses from this product was no exception. Let's consider and evaluate all the factors that are inherent in cinder blocks.

Pros:

• Electricity bills are rising rapidly. Here is the very option that will save electricity and heat. The room will have good sound and thermal insulation. This effect is achieved due to the excellent properties of concrete. It is he who knows how to absorb sounds from the inside, and from the outside he protects from cold and heat, that is, he does not let them through. This means that in the summer there is no need to spend money on air conditioning and in the winter, resort to additional heating.
• Compared to wooden houses, here, there is no threat from insects, which in the first case penetrate through the coatings.
• In regions with strong winds, Steel rods are laid between the blocks; stones and clay can be added to the solution. This masonry method significantly affects the stability of the structure and prevents the appearance of cracks in the foundation.
• Cinder block housing is easy to repair. A minimum number of banknotes is used. Houses built from blocks are resistant to natural disasters, such as earthquakes, hurricanes, and tornadoes.
• And no less important is fire. It is not dangerous to this species, that is, losses will be minimal compared to wooden buildings.
• Does not require a massive foundation and professional workers.
• Short construction time, cheap compared to a stone or brick house.
• Light block weight, thus there is no heavy load on the foundation.

Minuses:

• The main drawback is, of course, the appearance. A house made of blocks is inferior to the modern level. But even here some adjustments are possible; you should pay attention to blocks that have a decorative texture. But this is in the case that there are additional funds. Since here it will be necessary to attract professional workers who have experience with this product. And do a special project.
• In regions with constant flooding, the house is not suitable. Because the products are afraid of water.
• Special tools and tools will be required for laying pipes, as briquettes have a high density.
• The slabs have an uneven surface, which means they should be plastered on both sides.
• Before construction begins, the blocks are kept in open areas, for the complete disappearance of toxic substances, even in small quantities, which are contained in impurities.

Characteristics of cinder block:

What reduces the advantages of a cinder block house?

The choice of material is influenced by its filler, since it is responsible for environmental friendliness. The best option is crushed stone, sawdust, shell rock, and expanded clay.

The integrity of the blocks and its geometry identity are also important. It is worth paying attention to blocks from different pallets.

The characteristics of the stone, which are responsible for thermal conductivity, strength, frost resistance, and density, should be checked before purchase. For example, you can check the quality of a block with an ordinary 15 mm nail. If he manually entered it, you should think about purchasing such a product.

The manufacturing method influences the strength and reliability. If the blocks are made without a vibrating machine, the indicated characteristics will be reduced.

This type of manufacturing is not suitable for the construction of residential premises. Of course, when making it yourself, you can always adjust the setting time and add the necessary components for this.

The thickness of the masonry depends on climatic conditions. For example, a solution greater than 15 mm will reduce the heat resistance of the walls. For regular plaster to stick, it requires preparation. Cinder blocks are not intended for the construction of foundations and are not used as structural materials.

Buy or make it yourself?

If the construction is planned to be extensive, the question involuntarily creeps up about whether to make cinder blocks yourself?

To do this, let's make some calculations.

For one stone, you will need 0.011 cubic meters. meters of solution, we maintain the proportion 1:7. Therefore, a full bag of cement will yield 36 pieces. Also, purchasing purchased equipment for making blocks will cost 135,000 rubles .

There is a second option, make it according to the drawings, then it will cost approximately 39,000 rubles. The chosen method of self-production is acceptable only to those who have a private house, garage, outbuildings, as well as certain skills.

Independent production of artificial stone will allow you to choose a technology according to climatic conditions, environmental friendliness of the composition, color and size of the product. Unprofitable costs of physical labor will not affect you in large volumes.

The size of a standard stone is 188 x 199 x 399 mm, and has small holes.

To get a quality block, you should know some requirements:

• use cement grade M400 and no less;
• blast furnace slag or coal ash, if it is difficult to obtain, can be replaced with lightweight concrete;
• coarse sand;
• equipment with vibrocompression.

The resulting product is used for the construction of walls. And it contains such substances as: filler, water and binder.

The filler is:

• slag;
• brick fight;
• gypsum;
• granite;
• perlite;
• sawdust;
• gravel.

And the binder is cement. It is mainly responsible for the characteristics of the future stone: moisture resistance, thermal conductivity, weight, density.

If we talk about the composition of the solution, you can get a product from light and heavy concrete. The question arises, which one is better to do?

The first type differs in composition and includes ash, expanded clay, slag, sawdust, and sand. Therefore, it is quite light and environmentally friendly. It is easy to work with because it is light in weight. This leads to a reduction in construction time and saving money.

The second type is distinguished by its excellent ability to maintain its amazing characteristics during water elements. Water procedures are not scary for him. This product is distinguished by its durability and contains the following components: sand, crushed stone, pebbles. It has high thermal conductivity, that is, it heats up quickly, but cools down just as quickly. Having significant weight, working with it is more labor-intensive and time-consuming.

• When making blocks yourself, Enclosed spaces should be used, such as garages and outbuildings. The building must be equipped with good ventilation and a level floor.
• To prevent construction from being delayed, it is worth monitoring the geometry of the stone. Make as few flaws as possible in the resulting product. This is achieved by completely filling the vibration mold, even with a slide, which will disappear during vibration.
• Monitor the composition of the solution, supplements make a big difference.
• Window openings and doors are not taken into account during calculation, since losses during construction take up to 15%.
• When erecting a roof, it is worth taking care of vapor and waterproofing. This will maintain the proper level of humidity.

In the 70s of the 20th century, cinder blocks entered the building materials market. At first, utility rooms and garages were built from this material. But, having appreciated the advantages of the inexpensive material, they used it for more serious buildings. Today, private houses and buildings on an industrial basis are built from this material. Interestingly, there are conflicting opinions about a prefabricated cinder block home with pros and cons. These are the ones we need to deal with.

Characteristics of cinder blocks

Initially, the basis for cinder blocks was slag, a product remaining from the combustion of coal in blast furnaces. Over time, the composition of the base began to change. A modern cinder block can consist of granite screenings, broken bricks, expanded clay, crushed stone, perlite, ash, broken glass, sawdust, slag, broken hardened cement, and concrete. The binding element in this case is cement, sand, clay, gypsum, and plasticizing additives. Properly selected component elements, processed by vibrocompression using special vibroforming equipment, lead to the production of an industrial cinder block (Fig. 1). The production of this material is also possible in a handicraft way using wooden or metal forms (Fig. 2). When wanting to build a house from cinder block, the pros and cons of such a structure are determined by the owners during operation, but everything needs to be thought through in advance.

cinder block (Fig. 1)
making cinder blocks with your own hands (Fig. 2)

Types and sizes

Thanks to the calculations of technologists and developers, standard sizes of cinder blocks have been created, as in Fig. (3). Moreover, such material can be solid or have different forms of hollowness (from 28% to 40%). The different percentage of voids affects the weight of one block and its technical characteristics. For the production of partitions, blocks are made with a smaller thickness.

About the building material - cinder blocks.

Cinder block house pros and cons

A cinder block house can have different sizes and architecture. It is lightweight, which does not weigh down the entire structure of the building and does not require a reinforced foundation. A cinder block house has excellent fire-resistant properties. Due to the large size of the blocks and their lightness, this material is comfortable to work with. Walls are erected quickly, using less physical energy. Any mason can handle this type of construction; no additional machines or mechanisms are needed. In this case, the solution consumption does not increase at all. Thanks to high-quality material, a house made of cinder blocks is durable and reliable, with a long service life. The slag block is not afraid of rodents and mold. It is resistant to ultraviolet and chemical environments. All this can be attributed to the positive aspects of cinder block houses.

types and sizes of cinder blocks (Fig. 3)
cinder block for interior partitions

Important #1:

The most important advantage of a cinder block house is considered to be it. Purchasing material and constructing a “cinder block box” will not require large expenses. But from this moment the negative characteristics begin. Operation of cinder block buildings without additional insulation and cladding is possible at the dacha (during summer residence) and in buildings without heating, temporary buildings, and garages. Despite the fact that some manufacturers praise their material from all sides, it is impossible to permanently live in a cinder block house without additional insulation. And builders agree with this - professionals and those people who have personally encountered the problem of cold in a cinder block house.

Important #2:

In order for the pros and cons to be leveled out in a cinder block house, additional insulation with expanded polystyrene should be carried out (for our climate, a material with a thickness of 50 mm is chosen) and cladding:

• siding;
• facing bricks;
• tree;
• plaster.

At this stage, the plus side in terms of the efficiency of the cinder block structure develops into a minus side. After all, the costs of insulation, facing material and work may exceed the cost of a “cinder block box”. And this minus is not the only one. The disadvantages of a cinder block house include:

• difficulty in laying pipes and communications;
• moisture absorption;
• poor sound insulation and thermal insulation (which improves after insulation and cladding);
• inability to hang heavy objects on the walls due to the fragility of the blocks;
• not always smooth surface of the blocks;
• not always a pleasant color;
• questionable environmental friendliness and harmlessness of the material.

molds for making cinder blocks
DIY manufacturing diagram

cinder block making machine
cinder block house

What should you stick to?

In a cinder block house, the pros and cons will become less expressive if:

• construction technology will be followed;
• professionals will take on the work;
• the house should be additionally insulated and sheathed;
• construction will take place in dry weather;
• the masonry will be carried out on a high strip-type foundation (due to the fact that the cinder block is afraid of dampness, it quickly becomes saturated with moisture and can collapse);
• the walls will not remain without a roof for a long time with steam and waterproofing.

Is cinder block harmful?

Manufacturers are trying to dispel the myth about the radioactivity of cinder block buildings. To avoid any disagreements, the radioactive background of the area and material should be checked. But, due to the fact that acid and sulfur residues may be found in the slag, it is better for such raw materials to air out within a year. Only after curing and purification can the slag be used for the production of cinder blocks.

Conclusion

We cannot say unequivocally that it is better not to build residential buildings from cinder blocks. Those people who live in such a house and do not know the problems will not understand us. We will not promote this material either. One thing is certain, this material belongs to the future. And it’s up to you to decide what to build from.

How to build a house from cinder blocks?

To build a house from cinder blocks, you don’t have to turn to professional builders; you can study the cinder block construction method and do everything yourself. First, develop a project, calculate how much material you will need, and you can get to work.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before you start creating a project and building a house, you need to learn about the pros and cons of buildings made from cinder blocks.

Advantages of cinder block houses:

1. Saving money. This material is much cheaper than brick and wood, especially if you produce it yourself.
2. A cinder block house does not require a massive foundation.
3. The material does not impose any special requirements for storage and transportation.
4. The construction is reliable and does not differ in quality from houses built from other materials.

But there is also two significant drawbacks:

1. The material is afraid of water, so you can build a house only in dry weather, and then plaster the walls well.
2. To ensure the required level of noise and heat insulation, it is necessary to responsibly select materials. If this stage of construction is not done correctly, moisture will seep into the cinder block.

Foundation for a cinder block house

Main requirements for the foundation: it must be high to protect the house from moisture, which cinder block is so afraid of, and well insulated. If the house is one-story and without reinforced concrete floors, then the foundation does not have to be made super strong.

To build the foundation for a cinder block house you will need: crushed stone, cement, gravel, reinforcement, sand, concrete mixer, cinder blocks, opata, level, hydro- and vapor barrier material.

This process is carried out in several stages:

1. Dig a trench and make a bed of sand and gravel about 50cm high.
2. Install the formwork and make a reinforced frame.
3. Prepare a concrete solution: mix 3 parts sand and crushed stone and 1 part cement. Fill the prepared structure with it.

Construction of the base, if provided, can begin after 7 days, and the construction of walls can only be done after complete drying (after approximately 1 month).

Walling

First, the corners are set so that the walls are perfectly even. One cinder block is placed in each corner, then it is leveled with a building level. Stretch the twine along which you will lay out the walls. Before starting work, prepare:

• a mallet for hammering cinder blocks;
• trowel for removing excess mortar on seams;
• plasticizer (this material is added to the solution to increase its strength and ductility);
• circular saw or hacksaw for cutting cinder blocks;
• orders, plumb lines and spatulas.

Cinder block is laid using one of the traditional methods:

• tychkovy (one stone);
• spoon (half a stone);
• one and a half stones;
• two stones.

Important to remember, that laying cinder blocks can only be done at temperatures above 15 degrees. After the preparatory work, build the first row of blocks. The height of the seam should not be more than 1.5 cm, otherwise it will lead to a deterioration in the thermal insulation properties. Do not fill cinder block voids with cement!

When erecting the first three rows, check the wall with a level as often as possible; it must be strictly vertical. Cinder blocks are laid with an offset of ½ block.

To avoid cracks and make the structure stronger, builders advise using reinforcement. To do this you will need fittings and electric cutters or wall chasers. Using electric milling machines, recesses are made in cinder blocks, reinforcement is inserted into them and cement mortar is poured. This procedure is repeated every fourth row.

Video of building a house from cinder blocks, masonry.

Once the walls are erected, you can begin building the roof. This process cannot be postponed for a long time, so as not to expose the cinder blocks to the harmful effects of precipitation. The same applies to external and internal finishing works.

How to insulate a house?

To make your home comfortable in cold weather, you need take care of the insulation of buildings And. Experts say that it is better to insulate a building from the outside, as this guarantees 70% of the effect; sometimes internal insulation is not even required.

Before internal insulation, a vapor barrier layer is installed on the walls and ceiling of the building, after which mineral wool or expanded polystyrene can be used. Vapor barrier is not needed for finishing external walls.

If you want to save on insulation, then use polystyrene foam. This is the cheapest material; later it is plastered and painted. You can also buy expanded polystyrene, which has a low level of water absorption, so there is no need to install a vapor barrier layer.

Insulation of walls with foam plastic and decorative work are carried out in 5 stages:

1. The walls are being plastered.
2. Styrofoam is attached.
3. Reinforced mesh is being installed.
4. Work is underway to level and finish the walls.
5. The building is being painted.

For painting, it is better to choose acrylic or silicone plaster. And if you are not limited in finances, then for insulation it is better to purchase polyurethane foam - a modern material that is applied to the walls by pouring or spraying. The result is a coating without seams; it does not allow cold air and moisture to pass through.

How to calculate the number of cinder blocks per house?

If you are building a house from cinder blocks, then first you need to calculate the amount of material. Those who produce the building material themselves can make the missing amount at any time, it is only important to remember that the blocks will take time to become strong.

To calculate the number of cinder blocks you need to know the thickness of the wall. It may differ depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is being built. In the middle zone, a thickness of 20-40 cm is sufficient, and in order for the house to retain heat in harsh winters, the size must be at least 60 cm.

When calculating remember basic construction terms: half a stone (20 cm), a stone (40 cm), one and a half stones (60 cm), two stones (80 cm).

Let's carry out calculations based on the most common parameters that are used when building a house from cinder blocks. For example, you need to build a 9x7 building, the height of the walls is 3 meters. The area of ​​one cinder block is 0.08 m (0.4x0.2).

The first thing to do is calculate the number of blocks per 1 meter of wall. For this, 1/0.08 sq.m., it turns out 12.5 pieces. The wall will be built from two rows, so 12.5x2=25 cinder blocks. Now let’s calculate the area of ​​the house: (9+9+7+7)x3=96 sq.m. 9 and 7 are the length of the walls, and 3 is the height. For each square meter you need 25 cinder blocks, which means for the construction of the entire house: 25x96 = 2400 pieces.

The calculations do not take into account openings, but this is not necessary. Cinder block is a fragile material, so you need to take it with a reserve.

House construction price

How much does it cost to build a cinder block house? You can build a house from cinder blocks with your own hands, but do not forget about developing the project. You can do this yourself or entrust it to professionals. The main thing is to take into account climatic conditions and soil characteristics, as well as the stability of the building.

The average cost of one cinder block is 35 rubles. For a 9x7 house you will need 2400 pieces, that is, this material will cost 84 thousand rubles. But this is only the construction of walls; we should also not forget about the construction of the foundation, roofing, sound and heat insulation, and finishing work.

Is it worth building?

Many of them are satisfied with the construction process, because the house can be built during the holidays. Save on the material itself and mortar, which costs half as much as brickwork. Houses made from this material look original, are warm in winter and cool in summer.

Cinder block houses- These are reliable and durable buildings. Their construction will not require a lot of time and financial expenses, especially if you produce cinder blocks yourself. But in order for the building to last a long time, and to live in it comfortably, you need to choose the right materials for insulation and finishing.

When you start construction, you want everything to be done as quickly, cheaply and reliably as possible. All these factors can be satisfied by a do-it-yourself cinder block house. This building material can be made independently. We will consider both the technology of its production and the construction process from marking to installation of the roof.

Advantages and disadvantages

At a certain point in time, cinder block became very popular. This is explained by the fact that the waste material that remained after smelting the metal had to be used somewhere. They decided to use it as a filler for construction components. This is how this artificial stone appeared. But then it was not distinguished by the best qualities, because from an environmental point of view it had certain shortcomings. It had to be kept outside for about a year and only then put into work. Today the situation is a little different and it seems that it is the most popular material for the construction of low-rise buildings. Its strengths are:

• Long service life. With the right approach, the stone will last about 100 years.
• Good thermal insulation. Thanks to the manufacturing method with air chambers, the material retains heat perfectly.
• High construction speed. Thanks to the large dimensions, walls can be built much faster than with conventional brick.
• Resistance to the development of fungus and mold.
• Possibility of an individual approach to sizes.
• The material is unloved by rodents and other pests.
• A house made of such material is easy to repair.

Flaws:

• Absorbs moisture well, which leads to loss of heat capacity.
• Poor adhesion of plaster to this building block.
• Impossibility of constructing a building of more than 2 floors.
• The need to quickly erect a roof. The fact is that exposed walls cannot be left uncovered for a long time, as this will lead to their rapid destruction.
• The importance of strict adherence to masonry technology.
• The need for a high foundation.
• It is important to carry out construction work in dry weather.
• Poor tolerance to building shrinkage. In this case, splitting is possible not at the seams, but at the blocks themselves.

If you decide to purchase cinder blocks, there are several nuances that you should pay attention to. It’s good if it is possible to take measurements with a dosimeter. Thanks to this, you can determine how environmentally friendly the material is. Look at the conditions in which it was stored. It is important that it is not an open space where it is exposed to precipitation. There should be no chips or cracks on it. Using a tape measure, you need to check its dimensions. The parallel sides must match.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. To successfully advance in this direction, it will be necessary to acquire some equipment, as well as accurately observe the proportions. So, the first step is to design a vibratory rammer. For this you will need:

• sheet metal 3 mm thick;
• pipe with a diameter of 75–80 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• roulette;
• electric motor to create vibration.

The motor can be used from an old washing machine or from a sharpening machine. No more power required. The main thing is to correctly place the weight, which will shift the center of gravity.

The sequence of work will be as follows:

• Blanks are cut from metal. Two of them have dimensions of 200x400 mm, the other two have dimensions of 200x200 mm.
• They need to be welded together to form a small box.
• Three pipe sections of 170 mm each are cut. The length is smaller so that the thickness of the bottom wall is at least 30 mm.
• Cuts are made along the end of the sleeves to a depth of 50 mm. One of the sides is given the appearance of a truncated cone.
• At the other end, cuts are made to a depth of 50 mm. They contain a strip of metal 400 mm long. It connects all three elements to each other.
• The ends of the pipes are closed with plugs.
• This structure is placed in a box and secured to the walls.
• A side is welded onto the upper end of the container to make it more convenient to fill and compact the solution.
• Additionally, you can make a mechanism with which the box will lift up. To do this, you can use a profile square pipe. If you don’t want to complicate things, then it’s enough to weld two handles on the sides of the box.
• The motor is attached to the larger side. To do this, four bolts are welded to the wall so that their location coincides with the holes on the body of the device. It is pressed using washers and nuts of suitable diameter.
• Additionally, a lid is made that improves compaction. It will require a sheet of metal 195×395 mm. It is necessary to make holes in it for the pipes (they should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the sleeves) and cut into two parts lengthwise. This must be done so that it sinks quietly and does not rest against the partition that secures the hollows. The parts are connected to each other using brackets made from reinforcement. It is also necessary to make a depth limiter that will prevent it from immersing deeper than 5 cm.
• In order to speed up work, you can combine several of these containers with each other.
• Two bolts are welded onto the motor shaft on both sides. This must be done symmetrically. In the future, to adjust the frequency and strength of vibrations, it will be enough to tighten the required number of nuts.
• The final touch will be careful polishing and painting. It is necessary to do this so that the solution subsequently lags behind better.

Today there are many options for ready-made machines on sale. If you do not want to waste time and energy, then you can simply buy or rent it.

The key to durable and resistant to various influences is a properly prepared solution. If using a tamping machine, it must be sufficiently dry. If you incorrectly calculate the proportions of water, then after lifting the container it will simply disintegrate. As a filler, you can use ash from burnt coal, broken bricks, small crushed stone, slag, etc. To provide additional resistance to moisture, plasticizers are used. The first version of the mixture will be like this:

• 9:1 ​​- cement and slag, which is well sifted so that there are no unnecessary inclusions;
• water should make up about half of the cement.

Second cooking method:

• 4:4:1 - industrial granulated slag, fine crushed stone, cement;
• water the same ratio as for the first option.

The best consistency can be roughly determined as follows: you need to take the prepared solution and squeeze it in your hand. It must keep its shape. If you then throw it on the ground, it should spread. Once you squeeze it again it should hold its shape again.

The best place for work will be open air. Under such conditions, the solution will dry and set faster, which will increase productivity. It is advisable that the place be level. This could be a concrete path or a lining made from sheet metal, boards knocked together into panels, etc. The block preparation process will be as follows:

• The unit is installed in the place from which the laying will begin.
• The prepared mixture is poured inside. Its quantity should be greater than the actual capacity.
• The vibrator motor turns on for a few seconds. Some of the solution shrinks, so you need to add more.
• The vibrator starts again for a few seconds. A finishing bedding is made and the upper end is closed with a lid.
• Compaction is performed. If the lid has reached the stops, you can lift the container.
• Complete setting takes a period of 4 to 9 days.
• Finished products can be stored indoors. You need to move them there after a day of drying outside. If the composition contains a plasticizer, then after 6 hours.
• For greater convenience, they can be stacked on top of each other.
• They will be ready for the construction process in 1–2 months.

Often partition walls are laid out from blocks that are smaller in size. To make them, it will be necessary to make a mold according to a similar principle, as described above, but its dimensions will be 120x400x200 mm. It is better to use rectangular inserts as void formers. They should be of such a size that the walls are at least 3 cm.

Calculation of the number of blocks

Projects must be approached rationally. There is no point in being overly economical, as this will affect the quality of the future building. There is also no reason for excessive wastefulness. This is especially true for the number of blocks. You should start your calculations by deciding on the thickness of the wall. This size is determined by several factors, such as climatic conditions and soil conditions. If in winter the temperature drops too low, then it may be necessary to make a wall of 40-60 cm. In other areas, 20 cm will be enough, which will also be insulated with polystyrene foam or penoplex. Laying can be done in several ways:

• Half a stone. This does not mean that the block will need to be cut into two parts. This means that it lies lengthwise. That is, in the case described, this is a thickness of 20 cm.
• A whole stone. This is the one that lies across, and the wall is 40 cm.
• One and a half stones. By simple addition we find out that it is 60 cm.
• Two stones - 80 cm.

Let's assume that a project has been chosen for a future house with dimensions of 10x12 m, one-story with a wall height of 3 m. The first step is to calculate the total area of ​​the walls. To do this, multiply the length by the width. 3×10=30 m2, 12×3=36 m2, now we double and add these results, since there are two identical planes. 30×2+36×2=132 m2. So the final result is 132 m 2. We determine the area of ​​one block - 0.2 × 0.4 = 0.08 m 2. Let's divide the total area of ​​the walls by the area of ​​the block - 132:0.08=1650. But this figure is valid if the wall is planned to be made of one stone. If it is two, then the final result will be 3300 blocks.

These calculations deliberately do not take into account the openings that will be made for windows and doors. This is done so that there is a small margin. While working with material, there may be rejection, and our surplus compensates for this.

The amount of stone for partitions is calculated in the same way. In fact, the final figure will be the sum of the blocks for the main walls and internal ones.

Laying the foundation

As mentioned above, a design of this type requires high. In addition, it must be very durable so that cracks do not begin to form, which will certainly pass through the entire wall. The work will be carried out in the following order:

• The area selected for construction is carefully inspected. It is better to find out in advance in which part of the site the groundwater is at a lower level. That's exactly what she'll do.
• Everything that clutters it is tidied up, the grass is mowed to the minimum possible level. This is necessary to assess the overall slope and make markings.
• According to the drawing, guidelines for the size of the future building are transferred to the area.

• One peg is driven into each corner.
• The correct dimensions are checked. In addition to length and width, diagonals are also measured - they must match so that the shape is regular and not trapezoidal (if this is not provided for by the project).
• Holders for the guide line are made. To do this, you will need 16 wooden blocks of arbitrary size, but with a length of at least 90-100 cm. You will need 8 more small boards. Their length should be 10–15 cm greater than the width of the foundation. A crossbar for two bars is made from boards. The result should be a P-shaped design.
• Two self-tapping screws are screwed onto each crossbar. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foundation.
• All elements must be driven into the ground. It is important to do this at such a level that the screws are at a height of 70 cm above the surface. The order of the stands is two at each corner so that they are opposite each other in pairs.
• A fishing line or twine is stretched between the elements. It is more convenient to use fishing line that has a bright color. It does not get lost against the background of surrounding objects.
• At this stage, it is necessary to once again check the diagonals between the corners formed by the stretched thread.
• A trench is dug. Its depth should be 50 cm below soil freezing.
• Sand is poured to a height of 25 cm. It is leveled and compacted well. After this, you need to wet it with water and let it dry. If necessary, you need to supplement the level.
• Another 25 cm is filled with crushed stone. This layer also compacts well. Tamping is best done using a special electric or gasoline tool.

• Next, a metal grate is made. For a foundation of the planned height, two or three elements will be required. To work, you will need ribbed reinforcement with a diameter of 10–12 mm. It is better to assemble the structure on the surface. Its dimensions should be such that it is immersed in concrete by 5 cm on each side. That is, the total length and height must be at least 10 cm less than the length and height of the foundation. Several rods are laid out over the total length. The distance between the horizontal components should not exceed 30 cm. If there are no strips of the required length, then you can get from several. In this case, the binding between them must be at least 1 m. Staples are made from smaller rods. Their height should be equal to the size of the planned sheathing, and the folded elements should be the width of the structure. They are attached to the laid out elements every 30-40 cm. Instead of brackets, you can make ordinary vertical jumpers. They are fixed to each other with knitting wire. The same number of longitudinal rods is attached to the inside from above as from below.
• Typically, the height of one such structure is 40–50 cm.
• Stands are laid at the bottom of the pit, which will allow the concrete to cover the reinforced base from below. For these purposes, you can use bricks or other homogeneous elements. Minimum height - 5 cm.
• Formwork is made from edged boards knocked into panels, plywood or other durable material. It must be strong enough to withstand the pressure that the concrete will exert. Be sure to install jibs that will be stops on the outside. The distance between the panels must be the same so that the foundation is formed without sagging.
• After the preparatory work, you need to prepare a solution for pouring. You need to make sure in advance that you have an assistant and a productive concrete mixer; you can use several. This is very important because it is necessary to ensure good volume. Thanks to this, the structure will turn out to be monolithic and not layered, which will reduce strength. The composition of the mixture will be 3:1:3 - crushed stone, Portland cement, sand. Portland cement is perfect for such purposes. The fact is that it contains calcium silicate and gypsum additives. Thanks to this, quick setting occurs and strength is ensured. Be sure to add a plasticizer, this will improve the fluidity and filling of voids, increase frost resistance, and also moisture resistance.

• Periodically during pouring it is necessary to perform treatment with a vibrator. This way the concrete is better compacted and the structure subsequently gains maximum strength.
• During pouring, you must also try to distribute all the concrete level. Subsequently, this will help you cope with the walls faster.
• If the weather is hot enough, then it is necessary to moisten the surface generously with water; it would also be good to cover the foundation with construction film or pieces of roofing felt.
• With a high rate of hardening, the formwork can be removed within a week.
• It is better to continue further work after a month. This is exactly the period of time required for the cement-sand mixture to gain all its strength.

If you decide not to pour such a high foundation, as described earlier, then you need to take care of constructing the base. This is a continuation of the foundation that protrudes above the surface of the earth. It is important to remember that before you start laying it, it is necessary to provide waterproofing. To do this, roofing material or bicrost is laid on the foundation. The height of such a structure should reach 70 cm or more. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on it again and only after that the construction of walls begins.

When erecting walls, the main task is to ensure that they turn out smooth, without protrusions. The first step towards this result is to determine the highest corner of the foundation. The fact is that during pouring it is difficult to derive the ideal value. This measurement is made using a water level. You need to make sure in advance that its length is enough to cover the length of the foundation.

• An arbitrary angle is selected. One flask of the device is installed on it. The other part moves to different ends. Thanks to the difference in the position of the water, you can determine where the highest point is. Laying and leveling should begin from here. It is very important to do this, because if you start construction from the lowest point, you will have to subsequently trim the stones. If you do this with the highest one, it will be enough to simply make the seam a little larger.
• Having set the starting point, you can do the same for the remaining corners. For this you will need the same hydraulic level. The task will be to place 4 more stones so that in all planes they coincide with the reference one. Additionally, you can check the diagonals.

• A fishing line or twine is stretched along the outer edge of the wall. It will help make the wall level in the horizontal plane. It must be raised to the height of one row and after each new one rearranged to the same level. During work, you must ensure that the landmark is not pressed or touched by anything, otherwise it will be of no use.
• To maintain the verticality of the wall, you can use several tools. For example, after laying each row, check the level using a building level. An ordinary plumb line will also serve as a guide. If you don’t want to tinker with such devices, then you can build stationary support points. To do this, metal pipes are buried in the ground and come close to the wall. They are aligned in planes and fixed. Thanks to them it will be possible to control the process.
• The solution has good thermal conductivity, so it can cause significant heat loss. To reduce this value, it will be enough to control its layer. It is better if it does not exceed 1.5 cm.

• If you do not have much experience in masonry, then add a special plasticizer to the cement-sand mixture, which will slow down its setting. This will help you calmly display each element without having to redo it later.
• Do not try to fill cavities in the stone with mortar, this will only worsen its properties. If desired, they can be filled with loose insulation.
• Every 3-5 rows it is necessary to insert a metal mesh. It will increase the rigidity of the entire structure.

When laying the last few rows, you must remember to wall up the studs. It will be good if you can bend them and tie them with the seam of one of the rows. They should protrude above the surface to a distance exceeding 4 cm the height of the mauerlat beam. The step can be kept at 1 m or less. Rolled wire can be used instead of pins. Another option would be to fill the armored belt and install studs in it.

Roof

Installation of the rafter system and laying of the flooring should be started as soon as possible after finishing the walls. Before choosing the desired shape of the future roof, it is necessary to analyze what the maximum amount of precipitation can fall and what gusts of wind there are. You also need to take into account what buildings or trees are nearby. Usually all data can be obtained from the relevant services. This information will influence what angle will need to be maintained.

If the area is famous for the presence of strong gusts of wind, then the roof slope must be maintained in the region of 15–20°. Even with fairly heavy snow drifts, the layer will not remain, it will simply blow up. In the case where the area is quiet, but there is a lot of precipitation, then the optimal solution would be a spread of 35–40°. With such a slope, snow will not be able to be retained in large layers.

On private houses, a gable roof or all sorts of variations of multi-pitched roofs look great. We will look at an example of the construction of the first option. If the principle is well understood, then you can move on to more complex designs.

• Installation begins with the installation of the base - the Mauerlat. They can be used to tie the longitudinal walls on which the rafters will rest. Or install it around the entire perimeter, which will facilitate the construction of the pediment if it is wooden and not brick. To do this, you will need a beam with a cross-section from 50×150 mm to 200×200 mm. It should be placed in the middle or no closer than 5 cm to the edge. A layer of waterproofing must be laid underneath it, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture and rotting of the wood. Holes are drilled at the locations of the studs. The boards are secured with nuts and washers or knots using wire.
• At its core, a rafter system is a construction kit that includes a large number of parts. In shape, it resembles the letter A. In this case, the beams act in tension, that is, the force is applied in such a way that the walls are under constant tension. This option is not very good for a cinder block house, so it is advisable to use additional connecting elements. They are racks and beds.
• The first step is to install the ceiling beams. After this, the entire area can be covered with film to prevent rainwater from entering the building.
• Next, lay the beds on which the racks will rest. They must run parallel to the Mauerlat. The distance between them will depend on how the attic space will be used. They can be made from the same timber as the base.

• The rafter legs are connected to each other using nails or nail plates. In some cases, metal staples are additionally used. If they need to be lengthened, it is better to do this with an overlap; it should be about 1 m.
• There can be two or more crossbars. It is important to remember that the distance between them should be no more than 50 cm.
• The trusses must be the same size to support the roof plane. You can collect them both on the building and below. In most cases, the second option turns out to be safer and more reliable.
• Two finished elements rise to the top. They are installed along the ends of the roof and secured with temporary spacers.
• Three fishing lines are stretched between them. One goes along the upper corner, the other two - from the middle of each side. These will serve as guidelines for how the next trusses will be installed. Instead of fishing line, you can use a ridge board. It is important to place it on temporary supports and check that it is level in the plane.
• All other trusses are installed. To prevent them from moving, jumpers are installed, which will then be removed. The pitch between the rafter legs must be maintained in such a way that will facilitate easy installation of the insulation.
• The entire area on top is covered with a hydrobarrier membrane.
• What material should be used for the sheathing is usually indicated in the recommendations for the flooring that you plan to use.
• The last step will be insulating the roof. This is usually done using mineral wool. This is a very important stage, because it will reduce heat loss and reduce costs for various types of fuel.

It is better to close the gables as quickly as possible. This must be done to prevent the wind from blowing precipitation inside. This way moisture will not accumulate and destroy the building material.

Interior and exterior finishing

It is advisable not to leave the walls bare for a long period. Their finishing can be carried out in parallel with roofing work. For the outside, the ideal solution would be insulation using polystyrene foam. It is attached using special umbrella dowels. It's better to start from the bottom. The first step is to install the metal starting bar. Its role can be a profile for drywall. It needs to be set according to the level, which will simplify the task in the future. A hole is drilled in the wall through a sheet of insulation using a hammer drill. Glue is applied to the back side of the insulation; ordinary polyurethane foam with low expansion can act as it. Each element should fit tightly to the previous one. During installation, it is advisable to check the evenness of the surface using a level. After this, the entire surface is covered with glue intended for this purpose. Along with its application, a reinforcing mesh is laid, which will prevent the appearance of dents from impacts. The last layer will be the decorative finish. It could be bark beetle or relief plaster.

The house can be covered with siding. In this case, mineral wool can also be used for insulation. A product with a high density, such as polystyrene foam, is suitable. First, the sheathing is installed under the cladding. After this, insulation is placed in the space between the beams. You can attach it to the wall in the same way as polystyrene foam.

As noted above, it will be almost impossible to use plaster for interior decoration. But this is not a problem, because You can sheathe rooms using plasterboard. This will allow you to compensate for any unevenness and also apply the desired finish to it. It is important to take care of the vapor barrier so that moisture does not seep into the cinder block.

To complete all this work it will take a sufficient amount of time. But with good organization and planning, you can meet a reasonable deadline. It's always interesting to look at finished projects. Share your observations and suggestions in the comments to this article.

Video

In this video you will see how you can make a cinder block at home:

Watch the process of laying cinder blocks:

Photo