Roller for wallpapering. Technology for proper gluing of non-woven wallpaper. Gluing tools

Construction is a responsible business. And often we are accustomed to turning to specialists for help who raise prices for their services. Is it really impossible to bypass some points, save money and do some of the repairs yourself? As practice shows, it is not only possible, but also necessary. And the easiest option that anyone can handle is wallpapering with their own hands.

The most important thing in this matter is to observe the correctness of this process, not to get confused and to carry out the entire work process strictly according to plan.

You need to start by preparing the room where the wallpaper will be hung. First of all, remove everything unnecessary from the room, freeing up space for rolls. Then check if there is a pattern, check that it is aligned correctly, and arrange the wallpaper in sequence. The main thing is not to mix it up, otherwise you will have to buy an additional roll.

The next step is to prepare a tool for wallpapering. There is no need to worry, the tools are ordinary, nothing specialized: a roller for applying glue; wallpaper cutting knife; a rag for removing excess glue from the wallpaper and a spatula for leveling the walls. Once the tool is assembled, you can move on.

Preparing walls for wallpapering is one of the most important processes that requires a special approach. The entire work as a whole depends on the result achieved at this stage.

Initially, the walls must be puttied to level out various potholes or bumps, and cracks and holes must be repaired so that the concrete surface is almost “perfectly” smooth, at least to the touch. Let it sit until everything dries. After this, you should remove all switches and sockets. Installing them after the wallpaper has been pasted will give a more correct and aesthetic appearance.

At the stage of preparing the walls, you will need both putty and primer, and do not hesitate to apply them to the walls, the smoother the surface, the better the wallpaper will lie.

When the walls are ready, the rolls lie under your feet, and the tool is firmly grasped in your hands, the most important process begins, for the sake of which everything was started - DIY wallpapering. The rolls need to be rolled out to the length we need and the first strip cut off with a knife (or scissors). Apply sequentially, following the pattern, or simply, joint to joint.

It should be remembered that there are different types of glue, and it is worth studying it carefully before applying it to a particular surface. It is not advisable to apply the adhesive that is produced for walls first on the wallpaper; this may cause an incorrect “adhesion” reaction, and such wallpaper will not last long.

You should also pay attention to the fact that if you use non-woven wallpaper, then there are several important distinguishing points. Firstly, gluing wallpaper on a non-woven basis requires more careful alignment of the walls, secondly, corners that can wrinkle are the problematic area (it is better to cut in such places), and thirdly, it is important to remove the glue from all joints, otherwise it will later will give the wallpaper an unpleasant dark tint along the seams.

After applying any wallpaper to the wall, it is undesirable to open it in the room, thereby creating a draft. You need to wait two or three days until the glue finally sets.

Any repair requires careful preliminary preparation of all materials and tools necessary for the work. You must be prepared for any surprises and contingencies in order to achieve the highest quality results. In this article we will talk specifically about those things that will be needed for wallpapering.

We prepare everything you need

Let's start, perhaps, with preparing the instruments, although the sequence does not play a fundamental role here.

Tools

What do you need to hang wallpaper?

• Spatula 35 cm wide. Will facilitate the process of cutting canvases and trimming protruding sections.

Advice: for thin or fragile decorative coatings, as well as for applying liquid wallpaper, it is recommended to use. It will help keep them intact.

• Stationery knife. Its break-off blade is sharp enough to easily cut through any quality wallpaper, and it's lightweight and handy.

Advice: be sure to get additional blades, as they quickly become dull and become unusable.

• Velor roller 25 cm wide. Required for application to the wall surface.

• “Barrel” for wallpaper joints. It is a small barrel-shaped plastic roller designed for the highest quality gluing of seams by pressing them.

• A special tray with a ribbed surface for containing glue.

• Bucket for mixing the adhesive solution.

• Roulette. She will carry out all the necessary measurements.

• Brush. Useful for processing hard-to-reach places.

• Clean rags. An incredibly important thing when gluing wallpaper, despite its apparent insignificance. It is with a rag that you will level the canvases on the wall, squeezing out the air underneath them, and you will also be able to promptly remove any glue that accidentally gets on the decorative side.

• Ladder. The average ceiling height is two and a half meters, so it is better to glue wallpaper while standing on a reliable ladder, rather than jumping.

• Pencil. Necessary for marking.

Most of the above tools are inexpensive and useful, so try to get a complete set of accessories.

Wallpaper

What do you need to know when choosing wallpaper?

1. Moisture resistance. This is a very important operational parameter, which is responsible for how damp the room in which the renovation is being carried out can be, and whether it will be possible to carry out wet cleaning of the decorative surface in the future.

Identified using special characters:

• One wave - the use of a damp cloth during cleaning is allowed.
• Two waves – perhaps more thorough washing followed by wiping dry.
• Three waves – high-quality dirt removal using household chemicals.
• Wave and brush – the use of a brush or a washing vacuum cleaner is permitted.

1. Ecological cleanliness. If you have small children or allergy sufferers living in your home, then it is better to play it safe in this matter.
2. Lightfastness. UV-sensitive products should not be used in areas exposed to sunlight as they will fade very quickly. So choose this indicator correctly, which will also be helped by a special marking in the form of a circle or semicircle with rays, symbolizing the sun.

1. Method of gluing. Here it is important to find out whether the wallpaper is self-adhesive, and if not, then you need to apply glue to the canvas or just to the wall. This data will affect the amount of glue needed and the difficulty of doing the finishing yourself. The corresponding symbols are attached:

1. Roll sizes. With their help, we will further analyze how to find out how many rolls of wallpaper you need to paste your room.

So, let's move on to answering the question of how to determine how much wallpaper you need. To do this, first of all, you will need the dimensions of the room and the roll. Classic products are 53 centimeters wide and 10 meters long. Armed with a tape measure, you must measure the room yourself, namely the length and height of the walls.

For example, let's take a wall three by three meters, and calculate how much wallpaper is needed for 9 square meters. To do this, we find the area of ​​the roll: 10 × 0.53 = 5.3 square meters. And then divide the wall area by the resulting number: 9/5.3 = 1.7 rolls.

In this way you calculate all the walls. If you have any difficulties, you can always use one of the many online calculators.

Glue

How much wallpaper glue do you need and which one is better to choose?

The following will help you here:

• Instructions are on the wallpaper itself. For each specific model, the recommended adhesive composition for it is always indicated.
• An annotation on the glue package containing information about the approximate consumption of the finished solution.

Conclusion

Before starting the wallpapering process, you need to carefully prepare. To do this, you need to acquire all the necessary tools and materials. The list is quite impressive, and therefore it is advisable to have it on hand when going to the store ().

The video in this article provides additional information.

Be careful and don't miss anything important!

Glue wallpaper yourself- a wonderful and useful activity that unites the whole family: children usually love to participate in such an important event. Dad and mom, having combined their efforts, are ready to renovate their apartment with their own hands.

Gone are the days when the walls under the wallpaper were crumbling, and in order to straighten them, newspapers were glued as the first layer, and then trellises. The glue was universal - PVA, or homemade - a flour paste with the addition of a repellent for moths and other insects.

In our century, everything is much simpler: walls without the slightest flaw, straight corners, new technologies and a huge selection of wallpaper have significantly changed everything: wall pasting From an unpleasant procedure, it turned into a pleasant experience.

How to glue wallpaper.

You need to start with preparing the material, since the range of “outfits” for walls is huge, you need to think through everything first and choose the option that suits you. But, as they say: “hard trouble is the beginning!” The choice has been made and the trellises are awaiting their fate. Be careful and responsible when choosing glue and tools. It is also recommended to study wallpaper properties according to their markings. To calculate the number of rolls of wallpaper, you can use a wallpaper calculator.

Wallpaper marking.

Wallpaper finishing walls and ceilings is impossible without properly selected glue. You need to keep in mind that different wallpapers have their own glue. There is, of course, a universal one, but it is better to buy one that is recommended for a specific type. The sellers are well versed in the assortment and will recommend the one you need. However, before buying, read the instructions on the package. There are dry adhesive powders that are easy to prepare for use, and there is also a special ready-made glue. It is also necessary to separately stock up on such a type as glue for problem areas - corners, joints. How much to buy - the instructions will tell you where the consumption per square meter is indicated. It is necessary to take into account not only the layout of the walls, but also the panels - they will also need to be lubricated.

Before you start wallpapering, you should have on hand wallpapering tools:

• Sharp stationery knife;
• Level (bubble) or plumb line;
• Wallpaper roller, brushes of different sizes, handy napkins;
• Putty knife;
• Joint roller;
• Polyethylene film;
• Bucket.

Wallpaper finishing.

In order for the wallpaper to harmoniously merge into one, you need to know exactly what types of wallpaper you will use. This can be gluing from canvases of different colors or different patterns - combined.

• To achieve the most interesting interior design you need to know some rules:
• The ceiling is visually raised by vertical stripes;
• The interior of the room is expanded by horizontal stripes;
• Large drawing for large rooms, small for small ones;
• Light shades are suitable for rooms with a small area;
• You can only combine sheets with the same thickness;
• When choosing two wallpaper colors for one room, make sure they are compatible (use the color wheel).

After the decision has been made how to glue wallpaper and the walls have already been prepared for applying new ones panels- let's get down to business. We close the windows - there should be no drafts and begin marking the walls for gluing. To do this, use a plumb line, a long metal ruler and chalk. Marking should begin from the window, moving counterclockwise. The first strip should be adjacent to the edge of the window opening; for this, a vertical marking line is drawn directly on the wall. Next you need to move forward, taking into account the width of each strip, 2 cm for margin (depending on the type of wallpaper) and finishing the corners, towards the doorway.

Then everything will go “like clockwork.” The floor is cleared of all unnecessary objects and covered with prepared film. Wallpaper glue, diluted according to the instructions, is already ready, and it must be applied to the wall and the sheet of wallpaper from the inside out (if required). Fold the sheet in half for 2-3 minutes to ensure uniform impregnation with glue.

The gluing begins strictly according to the drawn up pattern, the folded panel is applied to the top of the wall, carefully straightened out, smoothing the material so that it stands up straight;

All wrinkles and air bubbles are removed, the wallpaper is smoothed with a clean rag or rubber roller from the center diagonally downwards.

All excess when gluing end-to-end should be cut off immediately, using a sharp knife; below, near the floor or baseboard, you should also cut off the excess piece. As you move, it is checked that all the panels run smoothly and that there are no bubbles or gaps between the individual strips. The areas above window openings and interior doors will be taped last.

• Before work, the baseboard must be removed;
• Different wallpapers - different approach;
• Paper trellises are first cut into sheets, then smeared with glue and left for several minutes, while the walls are smeared. You can make a slight overlap;
• Vinyl wallpaper is glued to a layer of primer. They are glued only end-to-end, not forgetting that they stretch greatly. Some types are recommended to be lubricated twice;
• Non-woven wallpaper can only be glued to a clean wall that is covered with a layer of putty. The glue is applied to the surface very generously, but not to the point of drip formation. Glue should be end-to-end, smoothing the surface to remove all wrinkles and bubbles.

2. Glue (special - for non-woven wallpaper). “We took PUFAS - this is an adhesive that does not leave marks on the wallpaper, mixes easily without leaving lumps. There is also ready-made glue on sale, but sometimes it has to be diluted with water, especially when the room is hot and the humidity is low. In such conditions The glue is quickly absorbed and you don’t have time to work with it. That’s why I prefer dry compounds that can be diluted to suit your needs.”.

3. Painting knife with replaceable retractable blades. “In good knives, the blade should be firmly fixed and not wobble during operation.”. The dull edge of the blade must be broken off immediately, otherwise it will not be possible to cut the wallpaper accurately.

4. Wallpaper spatula, or special rubber rollers for smoothing wallpaper (wide and narrow), or a piece of rag. “It’s more convenient to work with a spatula: it’s easier to smooth out the wallpaper and remove air from under the glued sheets. For thin wallpaper or with a delicate relief pattern, choose a soft wallpaper spatula.”.

5. Plaster spatulas (large and small), with which the wallpaper will be trimmed.

6. A container with water for mixing glue.

7. Tray for ready diluted glue.

8. Roller and brush for applying glue to the wall.

9. A screwdriver with an attachment, a piece of lath or other available material for mixing glue.

10. A clean, damp sponge to remove any glue that has accidentally fallen onto already pasted wallpaper.

11. A building level or plumb line, a tape measure, as well as a simple pencil for drawing the vertical line before gluing the first canvas.

12. Syringe - will be needed to “treat” the wallpaper if bubbles appear on the walls after it dries.

Stages of work

1. Wallpaper should be glued to putty and well-primed walls. It is important that the primer is completely dry. “It happens that iron appears on the walls - it needs to be covered with oil paint, preferably white. If this is not done, then over time a rusty stain will appear on the wallpaper.”.

“It is also undesirable for the walls to be treated with different primers, since the adhesive’s absorption and permeability will be different. If the walls are primed equally, then the wallpaper will adhere equally well.”.

It is recommended to work on the walls after finishing the ceiling, but not vice versa. Laying tiles on the floor and other dirty work is also done before wallpapering. If there is already a floor covering, then it should be covered with cardboard, film or other materials.

2. Immediately before wallpapering, the walls should be additionally primed with glue. The glue for the primer should be slightly thinner than for gluing. It is especially important to prime the walls with glue in hot weather, as well as when gluing thick wallpaper.

Important! Wallpaper should be glued in a room with closed windows. And after gluing, you should not open the windows for at least another day.

3. You need to start gluing wallpaper from a large wall and finish in inconspicuous places (under the window sill, behind furniture, etc.), where you can use pieces of wallpaper if there are not enough whole canvases.

The first strip is glued from the corner. In order for the wallpaper to lie flat, you need to set it vertically using a level. To do this, a level is applied strictly vertically to the wall and a line is drawn under it. "It is not necessary to run it from the ceiling to the floor. It is enough to make it 1-1.5 m long".

“The line must be laid at a certain distance from the corner: from the extreme protruding point, by the width of the tube minus 0.5-1 cm. In this way, a small reserve is made for all the unevenness of the corner, because in our houses the walls are rarely perfect, they are often piled up one way or the other, or even both at once".

If the apartment has round corners, then the vertical line is placed in the middle of the corner, and gluing begins from this place.

4. Let's start diluting the glue. “Pour water into a bucket and little by little, over about a minute, add a pack of glue, stirring as you do so. Let the glue sit for a while, swell, then stir it again and leave the glue for a few minutes again.”.

When preparing glue, it is allowed to deviate slightly from the instructions and make the consistency thicker or thinner. “As a rule, for heavy wallpaper, the glue is made thicker. By the way, such wallpaper is good because it is dense, does not get wet, and is easier to move. Proof that the glue has the desired consistency is that the wallpaper moves effortlessly when glued, and this is especially important when selecting a pattern. That is, the glue should be such that it is easy to work with.".

The finished glue is poured into a tray: this will make it more convenient to put glue on the roller and squeeze out the excess.

“If you didn’t have time to hang the wallpaper at once, you can postpone the work: the diluted glue can sit for a day or two. Only during the pause it is better to cover it. If the glue thickens, stir it. But if it is of poor quality and begins to emit an unpleasant odor, it means it has spoiled , and in this case it is better to mix fresh glue".

5. When working with non-woven wallpaper, you need to apply glue not to the canvas, but to the wall. “Using a roller, apply glue evenly to the wall within the limits of gluing the next panel, going a little into adjacent areas. There should not be a lot of glue on the wall.”.

6. Next, a roll of wallpaper is placed against the wall, unrolled, and the canvas rises up. A small reserve is left for the ceiling - a safety net in case of crooked walls and ceilings. Alignment is performed relative to the previously marked vertical. When the edge of the canvas and the drawn line coincide, the wallpaper, starting from the place of alignment, is smoothed by hand. Gradually the middle is pressed and then the opposite edge of the canvas.

Wallpaper can be cut into strips in advance, before gluing. The length of the canvas in this case should be equal to the actual height of the ceilings. The excess will be cut off, and if at the bottom it turns out that the wallpaper does not reach the floor slightly, this will hide the baseboard.

7. We make trimming at the top and bottom. To do this, we place a large spatula at the junction of the wall and the ceiling (floor), almost parallel to the wall, and under it, like under a ruler, we cut off the excess with a sharp knife. When we have run a knife along the entire length of the spatula, we remove the cut piece of wallpaper. In this case, we do not remove the spatula: if the canvas is not cut off in some place, we use the knife again. In corners and other hard-to-reach places we work with a small spatula.

“If the ceiling is suspended or has a baseboard made of polystyrene foam, trimming should be done as carefully and carefully as possible. It is enough to touch the suspended ceiling with the tip of a knife, and a hole will form.”.

8. After the canvas has been leveled and pre-leveled with your hands, the wallpaper needs to be smoothed and all air and bubbles removed from under it. This is done with a wallpaper spatula: first, the middle of the canvas is pressed with straight movements from top to bottom, then in a “herringbone pattern” (from the middle, to the sides and down) the edges are smoothed. The wallpaper joints and corners are smoothed with a little more effort.

"Thus, we move from top to bottom. When we see or feel with our hands a bubble with air and glue, we expel it to the edge of the canvas. It is better to remove glue from the wallpaper immediately - with a kitchen sponge soaked in water. Although, if the glue is of high quality, when it dries on the wallpaper becomes invisible, but on painted ceilings it is noticeable. All work must be done with clean hands.".

9. While the wallpaper is being smoothed in one place, the glue may dry out in another. Then you need to lift the canvas and, under it, additionally coat the wall with a brush with glue, then lower the wallpaper and smooth and press it again.

10. If a fold has formed when smoothing the wallpaper, you need to lift a piece of canvas up to this fold and re-glue it.

11. The next strip is glued according to the same principle as the first. The canvases are connected vertically strictly end-to-end. “If the walls are crooked, you can moisten them with more glue: the wallpaper will absorb it and begin to stretch, due to which you will be able to accurately join the edges of the canvases and smooth out the curvature of the walls. You can’t do this dry.”.

“Sometimes wallpaper comes off over time, the edges rise. To prevent this from happening, you should always additionally coat the wall with a brush under the edges of the canvases and press them well in these places. There should be enough glue along the edges; the excess should be removed with a spatula.”.

Important! Wallpapering with a pattern requires special attention.

After gluing the first strip, coat the wall with glue for the second strip. Next, we substitute the tube, unwind it, lift the upper edge of the canvas to the ceiling and move it until the pattern matches. We join the edges of the canvases, smooth the wallpaper with our hands, make trimming at the top and bottom. Then smooth the wallpaper with a spatula.

If there is a piece that is too long on top, a preliminary trim is made with a margin, and after smoothing, a final trim is made.

"Cutting" the switches

Trimming in the place of installation of removed sockets and switches: we feel for the voids with our hands and make cuts in the form of crosses with a knife. We do the final trimming on dry wallpaper (wet wallpaper is more difficult to cut). To do this, place a small spatula on the edge of the socket box, and under it, like under a ruler, all excess is cut off around the perimeter of the socket box.

Trimming pipes

Trimming around pipes requires more care. The operating procedure is as follows. We apply the canvas to the wall with pre-applied glue up to the pipe (if it is on top), from there we make an incision under a small spatula downwards. Its length should correspond to the distance from the ceiling to the pipe. If the incision is short, it is lengthened. Next, at the lower point of the cut, we make a small longitudinal cut, and the canvas is finally raised to the ceiling. After the wallpaper has been leveled, we make a rough “star” trim near the pipe under the spatula. After the final alignment of the canvas, a final trim is made under a small spatula along the pipe.

Near the window

At the window, wallpaper can be glued from pieces or from a single strip. In the second case, trimming will need to be done along the slopes and window sill.

The beginning of gluing is standard: glue is applied to the wall, a tube of wallpaper is placed, the roll is unwound, applied to the wall, the edge is aligned with the adjacent canvas, the wallpaper is smoothed by hand. Next, trimming is done along the window opening: the blade (very sharp) is extended to its maximum length, it pierces the canvas and is trimmed around the perimeter (without a spatula). “If you have an extra couple of millimeters left, you can remove them the next day: sharpen them along the slope with sandpaper. This should be done on dry wallpaper. You won’t be able to remove the excess on wet wallpaper.”.

In the corner

The first strip overlaps slightly with the adjacent wall, forming an overlap. The second strip is glued in the same way. If the overlap of two canvases is small, then it is enough to smooth and press the canvases well, and if the overlap is large, then you will need to make additional trimming. Otherwise, the angle will look sloppy.

Trimming in the corner is done as follows: a spatula is placed in the corner, parallel to the wall with the top sheet. Next, use a knife to make a cut, in two layers at the same time. Then the cut piece is removed from the top sheet, after which the top sheet is folded back, and the trimmings from the bottom are pulled out.

The next stage: applying glue with a brush in the very corner and gluing the canvases. “You need to use a lot of glue in the corners, as these places can freeze and the wallpaper will start to come off.”. It is better to stretch the wallpaper a little and make an overlap of 1-2 mm in the corner.

“If you need to glue a narrow strip of wallpaper in a corner, then you can cut the canvas to the required width like this: roll the wallpaper of the required length into a tube, place it on a hard place, measure the width and then use a knife to like breadThe whole roll is cut at once".

12. If the wallpaper still swells after drying, it can be “treated.” "Take a syringe with a needle and put wallpaper glue into it. The glue should be more liquid than for gluing, so that it can pass through the needle. In the place of the bubble, where there is air and the wallpaper has not stuck, make a hole, release the air, inject glue there and smooth the canvas".

October 23, 2017
Specialization: philological education. Work experience as a builder - 20 years. Of these, for the last 15 years he led a team as a foreman. I know everything about construction - from design and zero cycle to interior design. Hobbies: Vocals, psychology, quail breeding.

Greetings, my dear readers.

Of course, you can work with wallpaper (smooth it, paint it, apply glue, remove it) using your hands, a rag and a brush. But it is better to do this with a roller. It alone can replace several tools. At the moment, there are several types of rollers that can be used when working with wallpaper. They will be discussed in this article.

Tool Features

Despite its simple design, the roller has many advantages. Here are just a few of them.

Advantages of the roller

The tool has many advantages:

1. Ease of use. The paint on the tool can be applied to one part of it to paint a narrow strip of the surface. Or dip the whole thing into the container. Then you should roll the paint over a flat surface so that it is distributed evenly over the tool. After this, you can paint the wallpaper at an accelerated pace.
2. Versatility. A roller can do more than just paint and varnish. It is suitable for gluing, smoothing wallpaper or removing panels.

1. Indispensability. You cannot do without a roller, for example, if you are working on a hard-to-reach area or ceiling. In this case, it is difficult to be at a convenient distance from the surface being treated. A long-handled tool can help here.

1. Ergonomics. Brushes must be washed after use. You can simply remove the coat from the roller and replace it with a new one. Fortunately, their price is quite low.
2. Accuracy of work. Even if you protect your hands when working with a brush, you will still stain them with glue or paintwork. This does not happen when using a roller.

You can work with the tool with your own hands extremely quickly. After all, a roller can simultaneously cover a larger area than a brush. I rolled it a couple of times over a surface 1 meter long and 15–30 centimeters wide, and it was already painted.

Disadvantages of the device

The roller has its drawbacks, as well as some not entirely convenient features:

1. Applying paint or glue to internal corners. There is a big risk that when processing the wall, you will touch the one adjacent to it. Based on this, it is better to paint 10 cm of the surface on both sides of the corner with a brush.
2. Rolling embossed wallpaper. In this case, you should only use a roller with soft sandpaper. In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the level of pressure on the panel, since it can be damaged.

1. Uneconomical consumption of paintwork materials or glue. When using a roller, it is difficult to control paint costs.
2. Inability to process curved and specific surfaces. You cannot work with a wide tool on wall joints, joints, cracks, and potholes. There you have to use a brush.

Tool design

All types of rollers consist of the following elements:

• yoke - curved handle;
• tube - metal rod;
• a bobbin is fixed on it - a rotating cylinder made of hard plastic;
• the nozzle is attached to it.

The last element may be an absorbent coat. Or a relief attachment to create a textured surface, such as, for example, a roller for liquid wallpaper.

Despite its simplicity, this tool is quite capricious. First of all, it requires precise debugging. To do this, the inside of the instrument must be clean. Then the rotation of the reel will be uniform, it will not twitch or jam.

In addition, the bobbin must be extremely accurately centered along the axis of the inside of the tube. Otherwise, paint and varnish materials will be applied in uneven stripes.

When it comes to rollers, you should monitor not only the cleanliness of its rotating part. The condition of the replacement coat is also important.

The success of finishing work depends on its quality, correct choice, reliability of fixation and cleanliness. Based on this, before repairs you should purchase several rollers and replacement coats for them with piles of different lengths.

Types of rollers

Different types of rollers are used for gluing, painting and removing wallpaper.

Purpose of the tool

There are several types of wallpaper rollers according to their purpose:

Photo	Tool type
	Pressure roller. This specific tool is used only for smoothing wallpaper panels. The length of its reel can be from 15 centimeters to 30 cm. For light wallpaper, a foam roller is used, for heavy panels - a rubber roller.
	Docking tool. It is needed to smooth out the seams between the panels. Its bobbin is made in the shape of a miniature barrel. A similar tool for seams is moved with the protruding side along the joint. Its movements to the right/left make it possible to smooth out the joint on both sides.
	Corner roller. It is used to treat surfaces in and around corners.
	Painting tool. When asked which roller to use to paint wallpaper, you can answer with this one. It can also be used to apply glue. A type of paint rollers are frame devices. Their fur coat is attached to a metal frame. This tool is very cheap.
	Needle roller for perforating panels. It is used when removing old wallpaper. First, the tool pierces the panels, then they are moistened with water and then easily removed.
	Facade tool. It is equipped with a special layer. This element makes the rotation and movement of the reel smooth. Thanks to this, the coloring composition does not splash.

Nozzle material

Rollers are divided into varieties and according to the material of the fur coat. It could be:

1. Perlon or polyamide.
2. Polyacrylic. Nozzles made from it are used for painting work. The material has increased absorbency. Therefore, the paintwork on the fur coat remains longer and it can be dipped into paint less often.
3. Foam rubber. The instructions note that this is the best material for working with varnish and primer, as well as water-dispersed dyes. The foam forms small air bubbles on the base. When they burst, the surface becomes textured.

1. Fur. This material is economical because it is durable. Therefore, it should be chosen when large amounts of work are to be done. However, when purchasing a fur coat, you should accurately select the length of its pile. Otherwise, the costs of paint and varnish materials will be increased.

Conclusion

A roller is an indispensable tool for finishing work, including wallpaper. There are several varieties of it. You need to purchase them based on the type of work you have to do. The video in this article provides more information about this great tool.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments. Therefore, I say goodbye and success to you in your endeavors.

October 23, 2017

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