Connections of hip roof rafter structures. Hip roof: installation of the rafter system and installation of the structure. Photo gallery: houses with hip roofs

Structures with hanging rafters are in demand when constructing a roof supported only by the outer walls of the house. This construction principle is applicable to both gable and hip roofs.

Design features of a hip roof

Calculation and construction of a hip roof is essential more difficult to build single slope and gable structures. A hip roof has two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular slopes (hip). This configuration allows you to withstand high wind loads and reliably protect building construction from external influences. In addition, the resulting spacious attic room can be used as residential (windows for natural light mounted on roof slopes).

A hip roof with a ridge girder can be erected in two ways: with layered or hanging rafters. The use of layered roofs makes the roof lighter and simplifies calculations and installation. But in this case, it is required that the building have a load-bearing middle wall. Hanging rafters during the construction of a hip roof can be used when the building is small and there is no interior walls. The operational load is transferred to the external walls of the building.

Slope angle hipped roof with hanging rafters should be more than 40°.

The hanging rafters of a hip-type roof rest either on floor beams or on a mauerlat. Design rafter system requires accurate calculations and detailed drawings indicating the principles of installation of fastening units. For small buildings the right geometric shape calculations can be performed independently; in other cases, it is recommended to turn to professionals, since design errors will cause a significant decrease in the reliability of the roof during operation.

At the first stage of calculations, it is necessary to select the angle of inclination of the hip roof, which directly affects its height. For a hanging rafter system optimal angle tilt is 40 – 60°. The higher the ridge is located, the more material will be required to build the roof. At the same time, a high roof is the best option for regions where a large number of precipitation. A flatter roof has less windage and better withstands wind loads.

When choosing the angle of inclination of a hip roof, it is recommended to adhere to the “golden mean” rule and proceed from aesthetic considerations. You can select the angle of inclination of the slopes, and based on this, calculate the height of the ridge. Or vice versa, determine the desired height of the roof, and then calculate its angle of inclination.

When calculating a hip roof, it is necessary to ensure the correct positioning of the ridge girder. It should be located strictly parallel to the load-bearing side walls, exactly along the central axis of the building and equidistant from the end walls. Otherwise, the center of gravity of the roof will be shifted, which will lead to uneven distribution of the load on the truss structure and load-bearing walls, which is fraught with deformation and destruction of the roof.

Drawings prepared as part of the project development must contain information about the location, cross-section, shape and dimensions of all elements of the rafter system. Their appearance and design features, fastening features, span width, ridge length, roof height are taken into account.

Rafter system of a hipped roof

The main elements of the hip roof truss system include::

• Mauerlat/floor beams (support for rafter legs);
• ridge run(an element that, together with slanted rafters, determines the configuration of the roof);
• ordinary side rafters (connecting the ridge and load-bearing walls);
• diagonal (corner, slant) rafters (directed from the corners of the walls to the ridge);
• central rafter hip;
• narozhniki (short rafter legs connecting the slanted rafters to the Mauerlat);
• struts and racks (used as additional supports);
• crossbars (provide a rigid connection between the rafter legs in pairs);
• sprengel (serves as an additional support for the diagonal rafters).

When constructing a hip roof using hanging rafters, a ridge girder is not installed. Instead, central trusses are installed - rafter legs connected by crossbars for rigidity. The rafter system in the central part of the future hip roof is performed in exactly the same way as during the construction of a gable roof. It is recommended to make roof trusses on the ground according to a pre-prepared template in order to accurately comply with all dimensions. When installing trusses, it is necessary to check the verticality of each structure. It is important that the outermost trusses are at the same distance from the corresponding end walls of the building: this will ensure the correct geometry and symmetry of the hips.

After installing a row of trusses, bars or boards are installed in the ridge part of the resulting system (on both slopes) connecting the trusses to each other. Then, slanted rafters are attached to the outer trusses, resting on the corners of the building. At the next stage, the central hip rafter (on each triangular slope) and the flanges are installed.

Rafter trusses can rest on the mauerlat or floor beams. When developing a project, it should be taken into account that in the second case, the spacing of the beams must correspond to the spacing of the rafters. If the rafter system involves the installation of trusses on the Mauerlat, then the tie rods located in the lower part of the trusses will not only ensure the rigidity of the structure, but can also serve as floor beams.

Bottom tightening can be used if the span does not exceed 6 meters. If hanging rafters mounted in a span of 6 to 7.5 meters, it is necessary to use crossbars in the upper part. With a span length of 7.5 - 9 meters, the upper part of the rafters should be tied to the tie using a headstock (stand). If the span length is from 9 to 10 meters, the previous type of structure should be reinforced with struts.

Before proceeding with the installation of the rafter system, it is necessary to check the geometry of the walls of the building. The upper part of the walls (mauerlat, floor beams) must be positioned strictly horizontally.

Principles of manufacturing and installation of slanted rafters

Installing diagonal rafters is a key stage in the construction of a hip roof. It is important to ensure the correct geometry of the structure so that the rafter system evenly distributes the operational loads of the roof.

Diagonal rafters are longer than the side ones, they rest on the corners of the building frame, and in the upper part they connect with ridge element roofs. The rafter half-legs (shortened) - the trusses, in turn, rest on the mowing ones. The requirements for sloped rafters are: increased requirements in strength, since they carry increased load, acting as supporting elements systems. The total load on diagonal rafters is twice as much as on conventional rafter legs. The lower part of the slanted rafters rests on the mauerlat or on a beam laid at the corner of the wall, or rests on them, depending on the design principle - spacer or non-spacer.

Sloping rafters can be made from durable laminated timber of the required length. But, most often, double boards are used, spliced ​​in compliance with certain requirements. Splicing the diagonal rafter leg allows:

• increase the resistance of the element to loads due to the doubled cross-section;
• make a continuous beam of the required length;
• unify the dimensions of the hip roof parts.

Unification allows you to use the same material for the manufacture of diagonal elements as for standard rafter legs - the use of boards of the same standard size simplifies Constructive decisions when designing and installing rafter system components.

One or two supports are installed under the diagonal rafter. The boards are spliced ​​along their length so that the joints are located at a distance of 0.15L from the center of the support. Accordingly, the length of the boards for making slanted rafters is selected depending on the length of the span and the number of supports required. In particular, if a hip roof requires a 10 meter long diagonal rafter, it is recommended to use 7 and 3 meter long boards to position the post 1/4 of the span from the top end of the rafter. In this case, the structure will be able to withstand the design loads - it is not recommended to place supports under the middle part of the rafters.

A strut or stand made of timber or paired boards acts as a support for the diagonal rafter. The installation angle is not of fundamental importance if the strut rests against a solid reinforced concrete floor(with laying a waterproofing layer). If the stand rests on the bench, the installation angle is usually 35 - 45° to the horizontal plane.

Additional supports are installed according to the following principle. Span lengths up to 7.5 meters require the use of one strut. If the span is 7.5-9 meters, a support is installed at the bottom of the rafters, or a truss truss is installed. As the span length increases, additional support is installed. If the ceiling is not strong enough, it is necessary to lay an additional intermediate beam to support the racks.

Sprengel is a beam that intersects the angle formed by two walls adjacent to each other. A truss truss is a structure in which the slanted rafters are supported by supports that rest on the trusses. The entire system is strengthened by two struts. To make a truss truss, timber of 100×150 mm for beams, 100×100 for racks and 50×100 for struts is used.

Installation of the upper part of the diagonal rafters

The upper end of the hanging rafters is attached to the ridge part of the outer truss when installing a system with hanging rafters. This may require the use of a sprengel or hammer ( short board thickness from 50 mm), to which the ends of the diagonal rafters, sawn at the required angle, are attached. If the ridge is positioned with an indentation from the ridge, you get a Danish half-hip hipped roof. For fastening sloping rafters in the upper part can be used the following types fasteners:

• perforated plates;
• nails;
• twisted wire rod;
• clamps.

The frames are attached to the slanted rafters using the cutting method or with the installation of cranial bars (the second option makes it possible to obtain a more rigid structure). The cross-section of the bars, which are sewn onto the rafters on both sides, is 50x50 mm. The frames should be supported on the rafters with a shift so that joints of the bars do not form at one point.

Hip roof characterized big amount advantageous aspects, among which are attractive geometry, uniform heating and protection of the structure from precipitation. Even strong gusts of wind do not affect such a structure, since it does not have gables. If you compare it with gable roof, then it can be noted that the likelihood of deformation of the hip roof is much less. It would take a very long time to list the advantages of such a roof, but we must not forget that the rafter system hip roof- This is a rather complex design. This fact can be a significant reason when choosing the type of roof. Despite this, private developers very often build a hip structure, due to its similarity to a hip frame.

Some features of a hip roof

When comparing hip and gable roof You can immediately notice that the hip roof structure does not have vertical gable walls. They are replaced by triangular slopes located at the ends. Thanks to this, the visual and actual volume of the roof is significantly reduced. On the economic side, the benefit of this is a controversial issue, since when cutting large sheets of roofing material into hips, there is an increase in costs.

Like any structure, a hip roof is conventionally divided into simple geometric figures. The simplest option has symmetrical slopes: two in the form of a trapezoid and two in the shape of a triangle. That is, the entire structure consists of four slopes, which served as the basis for the parallel name - hipped roof.

The side section of a hip roof is similar to a conventional gable roof in the shape of a triangle. At visual inspection in profile you can see a trapezoid, which is conventionally divided into a rectangle with expanded triangles adjacent to the sides. The shape of the trapezoid is determined directly by the developer and depends on the ratio of the length of the ridge to the length of the eaves overhang. The part of the structure, which has the shape of a rectangle, is built on the basis of roofing standards for the construction of hanging and layered rafter systems.

The hips that replace the gables must be installed with a certain slope, since the design provides for their connection with the inclined sides of the trapezoid. It is the installation of hips that is the most difficult stage in the arrangement of a hip rafter system. For those who decide to do the work by analogy with the usual pitched method, we can say that nothing will come of it. The thing is that the length of the ridge girder does not correspond to the length of the slope, therefore, the rafters of the hips in the upper part, as well as the adjacent triangular parts of the large slopes, remain without support.

As a support, the structure provides for the installation of special slanted rafter legs that connect the ridge beam and the corners of the structure. A look at the hip roof from above allows you to notice that the sloping elements are diagonals, for this reason their second name is diagonal. In addition, the design of the hip roof implies that the diagonal will become a support for rafters of different lengths, which are installed at right angles to the overhang. These different-sized elements are called narozhniki.

Thus, the main elements of the hip rafter system are:

• Ordinary rafters of a hip roof, the lower part of which rests on floor beams or mauerlat. Depending on the type of support, the rafters can be hanging or layered.
• Diagonal rafter legs needed to connect the corners of the roof and the edge of the ridge beam. Such elements can be used both for convex corners of a hip structure and for arranging concave corners endov.
• Rags are elements that create the plane of the hip and parts of the trapezoidal slopes that are adjacent to the diagonal rafters.

Description of diagonal rafters

Taking into account the location of the diagonal rafters, it can be determined that their length will be greater than that of ordinary rafters. In addition, being a support for the narodniks, they take on quite a large load. All this leads to the conclusion that the diagonal rafter legs should become reinforced. Most often, boards intended for ordinary rafters, but paired with each other, are used for this.

Paired mowers allow you to solve three problems simultaneously:

• Increasing the load without the risk of deformation of the rafter system.
• Obtaining a solid diagonal element (building up rafters leads to weakening of individual sections).
• Reduced costs for installing the rafter system (two boards will cost much less than a solid beam).

A significant length of diagonal rafters requires the installation of additional supports, the number of which is determined by the length of the diagonal.

Supports for diagonal elements

The design of a hip rafter system, regardless of size, requires the presence of supports that strengthen the diagonal rafter legs. If the length of the slope is more than 9 meters, then the installation of at least two supports is required. Spans of shorter length can be supported by one support located in the upper part.

The support for diagonal rafter legs can be:

• Vertical racks installed directly on the ceiling. If the floor is reinforced concrete, then a piece of waterproofing material must be placed under the stand.
• The braces that bottom rest against the bench and are located at an angle of 45 degrees, and the angle of inclination does not play a special role.
• Sprengels, which are made in the form of the letter “T” upside down. This element is used in cases where the diagonal needs two or more supports (read also: " "). When installing, it is important to ensure that the base of the truss is perpendicular to the slope. In most cases, such supports are placed closer to the corner of the roof, that is, at the bottom of the slanted rafters.

Additional supports are best made from paired boards and installed in places where the greatest load is expected.

Design of reference points for rafter slopes

The upper part of the slanted rafter leg rests against the ridge beam. The design features of the hip roof allow you to do this in several ways:

• If the roof structure has one ridge girder, then the slope rests on the ridge console.
• If the rafter system has two ridge purlins and ordinary rafters made of boards, then the slopes should rest on the truss, the base of which rests on the ridge purlins.
• If the design provides for the presence of two purlins, and the rafters are made of timber, then a hammer is used instead of a truss. This element is made from cutting boards more than 5 cm thick and connects ordinary rafters near the ridge.

Depending on the planting method, the upper part of the slope is trimmed. Diagonals can be fastened with nails, but reinforcement with twisted wire or a metal clamp is allowed.

In the lower part diagonal rafters hip roofs resting on the Mauerlat are attached using metal brackets or corners directly to the Mauerlat or to a specially installed corner beam.

The device of the narozhniki

The hips and triangular parts of large slopes are formed using sprigs. At the top, the element rests on a diagonal rafter, at the bottom - on the mauerlat or floor beams.

Sprinklers are installed in two ways:

• Using a notch. In the diagonal rafters, nests are cut out at a distance of 20 cm from each other, but it should be remembered that cutting the edges of adjacent slopes should not be done opposite each other.
• Installation of cranial bars, which will act as supports for the sprigs. To do this, take 5*5 cm bars and pin them onto the lower part of the braid. This option is considered more effective, since cutting can weaken the strength and stability of the slope. In addition, the use of this method allows you to place the sprigs opposite each other.

The fastening of the spigots in the lower part is carried out by analogy with the installation of ordinary rafter legs.

Installation of a simple hip rafter system

The most in a simple way The construction of a hip roof involves the purchase of a ready-made rafter system and its installation. But building a hip rafter system with your own hands will take more pleasure and will allow you to create a design that matches the entire structure. To make sure own strength, you can practice on small buildings, for example, build a hipped roof over a gazebo or summer kitchen.

Creating a simple hip roof takes place in several stages.

Stage 1. Creating a roof model and drawing up a project.

The construction of any structure is preceded by a design stage. This helps determine the shape of the structure and acquire required quantity material. A simple hip roof does not require a complex drawing; it is enough to draw an approximate diagram of the hip roof rafters by hand.

To compose simplest project hip roof, it is enough to follow the steps described in the following instructions:

• The parameters of the structure are determined, according to which the rough drawing roofs in profile and full face. In order for the drawing to correspond to real parameters, it is necessary to select a scale; most often they choose 1:25. This means that the size should actually be divided by 25.
• Choose optimal height The roof is helped by drawing the contour of the roof, and in several versions. For the most suitable pattern, the angle of inclination of the slopes is measured.
• Next, in the figure, mark the installation points of the layered rafter legs, and each side must be divided into equal plots. The pitch of the hip roof rafters should be optimal so as not to increase consumption building material, but also do not strengthen the structure with additional counter-lattice.
• The next step is to determine the length of the skate. It should be remembered that this part of the structure must connect a whole number roof trusses. On both sides of the long side you need to set aside equal pieces.
• Based on the figure it is calculated required amount material.

The number of fastening elements is determined by the number of rafter legs, taking into account all the nodal fastenings. For each rafter you need to purchase two corners. It is best to buy boards with a small supply so that it is possible to eliminate accidental errors in construction. If the structure is being built on a concrete or brick box, then care should be taken to purchase timber from which the Mauerlat for the hip roof will be constructed.

Stage 2. Installation of the main part.

Installation of the hip rafter system begins with the installation of the ridge part:

• Directly in the middle of the walls to which the hips will adjoin, one board at a time is nailed. A construction cord is pulled between them, which must run strictly along the central axis.
• Two rafters are placed at one of the ends of the building; their intersection should pass under the cord. Mark the cutting line of the upper heel of the rafter leg, taking into account the ridge purlin, about 5 cm thick. The necessary part of the element is cut down so that the envelope roof is of the required shape.
• The remaining rafters are sawn according to the completed workpiece. It should be remembered that when constructing a hip roof with hanging rafters, the length of the eaves overhang is taken into account.
• Trusses are assembled from two rafter legs and fastened to one nail.
• A ridge beam is installed across all trusses and rafters are nailed to it.
• In the lower part, the layered rafters are attached to the mauerlat, the hanging rafters of the hip roof are attached to the floor beams. In both cases, fastening is performed using metal corners.
• Previously nailed auxiliary boards can be removed as they are no longer needed.

Stage 3. Construction of hip slopes.

The rafters of the hip part are fastened by analogy with ordinary rafter legs: the top is fixed with nails, the bottom is fixed with corners to the mauerlat or top log.

Installation is performed as follows:

• Place the first diagonal rafter and place a mark at the cut site. In this case, the lower part of the element should be located in the corner of the roof.
• The element is sawed off along the intended line and fixed: the top with nails, the bottom with corners.
• The remaining diagonal rafters are installed according to a similar pattern.
• To fill the hip slope, the flaps are tried on and installed individually.
• After this, they proceed to the installation of the main ramps.

After installing all the elements of the rafter system, do the following: using twisted wire, every second rafter is tied to a log of the second row or to wooden plugs that were previously laid in the walls. In addition, twisted wire can be laid in brickwork or between blocks during the construction of walls. It should be remembered that from the top to the location of the twist there must be at least three rows of bricks or two rows of blocks.

The finished rafter system is covered with lathing. If the coating is soft, then the sheathing should be solid boards, plywood or OSB boards. Hard roofing materials can be laid on a sheathing made of timber, nailed at a certain pitch.

Construction of a complex hip roof

The frame of a complex hip roof is erected in a similar sequence, but with minor modifications. For example, diagonal rafters should be fixed in a more durable way, with the installation of additional supports. The ridge part is installed after installing the support frame, which includes a bed at the bottom and a ridge girder at the top.

It is much more difficult to erect a hip roof rafter system than a conventional one gable structure. However, a hipped roof looks more attractive both over the house and over a light building.

Having tested your strength in erecting a hip roof over a gazebo or other household structure, you can achieve good result V self-construction hipped roof over a residential building.

A hip roof is one of the types of roofs that has four slopes. But at the same time, two slopes are made in the shape of a trapezoid, and the other two are triangular (instead of pediments), which are also called hips. Hence the name - hip roof. The main thing is that the end slopes occupy the entire space from the cornice to the ridge. If they do not reach the eaves, then such a roof will be called half-hip. If a hip roof is cut, then in this projection it will look like an ordinary triangular gable roof.

Hip roof - rafter system

A hip roof is not only durable protective structure for a building, it is also intended for its decoration, and is also capable of giving it a special charm and personality.

On a note! In Russia, more often are used simple options roofs - for example, gable. But in Europe, hip roofs are very widespread. However, in our country we can see such roofs in last years possible more and more often.

The advantages of a hip roof are, first of all, the following:

• beautiful appearance;
• excellent protection of the structure from the effects of precipitation;
• high strength and ability to withstand wind and snow loads;
• the hip roof structure is very rigid due to the presence of corner ribs;
• such a roof can have far protruding overhangs, and this is additional protection buildings from precipitation.

But, as usual, even the best option always has its drawbacks. For example, a hip roof is a rather complex structure, so it’s difficult to install it. Due to the fact that more material is spent on it, it will cost more than a regular gable. It is also important to understand that attic space underneath it will be small due to the installation of additional supports. Because, by the way, full attic You can't do it under such a roof. In general, in some cases these shortcomings are not critical, and hip roofs have been installed very often lately.

The design of such a roof

As already mentioned, such a roof has complex design. And first of all, the difficulty lies in the fact that the roof has a lot of fastening points, components, mount which in unified system It will be extremely difficult for a person without experience. The hip roof design includes the following elements.

1. Mauerlat as the basis and support for the entire system. It is made, as a rule, from powerful timber with a cross-section of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. The Mauerlat helps to evenly distribute the weight of the entire roof along the perimeter of the building. And it is to this that the rafter legs are attached during the construction process.

   

2. Lezhnya- a relative of the Mauerlat, which is mounted on internal partitions and has the same function as its brother. It is also made of timber, usually with a section of 10x10 cm.
3. Ridge run is a support beam for the upper parts of the rafters. Vertical support posts are installed under it.
4. Rafters diagonally oriented in the amount of four pieces they help to form just the hip slopes. Such rafters are fixed so that they continue the ridge, but at the same time diverge towards the corners of the house. Fixation is carried out on the ridge and Mauerlat. They must be very strong and thick, as they are subject to a lot of stress. These are very long rafters.
5. Ordinary rafter legs are supported by trapezoidal slopes. As a rule, they are made from boards with a cross-section of 5x15 or 10x15 cm. They are fixed on top to the ridge, and from below to the mauerlat. The distance between adjacent legs is from 60 to 120 cm.
6. There are also shortened rafters - narozhniki, - which are attached to the mauerlat and diagonal rafters. A distance of 70-80 cm is established between adjacent roof panels. They do not experience heavy loads, but are indispensable when creating a hip roof. The spigots are mounted either by cutting or by installing support bars for half-legs.

   

7. Racks, acting as supports, are made of timber and installed on a bench. Their purpose is to support the rafters or the ridge in the middle.
8. Between the elements of each pair of rafters are installed puffs, which act as horizontal jumpers. They help to pull the rafters towards each other and reduce the load on the walls. The tie in the ridge area is called a crossbar, and the one below can be used as a floor beam.
9. Rafter legs or struts are installed at a certain angle to the rafters themselves and help them not to bend under their own weight.
10. Vertical supports or trusses needed to support diagonally located rafters. They have the shape of an upside down letter T. The base of the truss should be perpendicular to the slanted rafters.

    

Important! Some of the hip roof parts can be very long, depending on the size of the roof itself. But all lumber is limited in size. In this case, you can use typesetting or glued rafters.

Also, a hip roof, like any other type of roof, must be equipped with a water drainage system. Snow guards and other additional elements can be installed.

Types of rafter systems and hip roofs

Hip roofs depending on their design features may have a different rafter system, and also belong to a certain type of roof. The table below shows the types of hip roofs.

Table. Types of hip roofs.

Also, a hip roof may have different rafter systems as a whole.

1. Hanging when the rafters rest on the ridge and the mauerlat. Here there is a large load on deflection and expansion. So you will have to install tightening. It is not recommended to use this version of the rafter system for a hip roof. But the system can be used for buildings no more than 6 m wide.
2. Layered, when the rafters rest on the mauerlat, ridge and stand installed in the middle on the load-bearing internal wall. The load on the system in this case is less. This is a reliable and durable option, and even easier to install. This option is suitable for buildings up to 12 m wide or more, depending on the number of additional supporting elements.
3. Combined system has both hanging and layered elements. All beams will be visible, they will not be covered by the sheathing, since the racks in this case rest on columns or pillars, and not on internal partitions.

Materials and calculations

You can create a rafter system for a hip-type roof from either wood or metal. For independent work wood is preferable, since it is much easier to make anything from it. A good option- pine. It is light, durable and low cost.

Important! In order for the tree to serve for a long time, before work it is important to treat it with special protective compounds, which will help prevent the onset of the rotting process.

If the rafter system is made of metal, then it is important to choose a galvanized version, which will be able to resist corrosion and will last for many years, and can also withstand heavy loads.

The most difficult thing in creating a hip roof is its correct calculation. It is important to consider not only the size of the house, but also wind load in the region, the amount of precipitation during the year, the type of material from which the roof will be made, and the need for installation additional elements, performing insulation work, etc.

In any case, the calculation is made according to certain formulas. And here it is important to consider optimal slope roofs. You can select it based on the table. The slope will also help you navigate with regard to the laying of the rafters.

Table - roof angle depending on roofing material

The distance between the rafters can be seen in the table below.

Calculation of rafter cross-section

The laying of the rafters and the relationship between their lengths can be calculated using the coefficients in the table below.

So, the formulas used to calculate a hip roof are as follows:

• H = D*tan a / 2, where H is the height of the ridge, D is the width of the house, and is the angle of inclination of the slope;

• L = l – D, where L is the length of the ridge, l is the length of the building, D is the width of the house;

• L c = H 2 + d 2, where L c is the length of the central rafters. Ordinary rafters are calculated in the same way;
• ∆L = k/cos a, where ∆L is the required length of the rafter extension for the overhang;

• B = 90 0 – a, where b is the slope of ordinary elements;

• LD = √(L 2 + d 2), where LD is the diagonal length of the shaft rafters;

• L1 = 2/3L and L2 = 1/3L, where L1 and L2 are the length of the spigots (the first short and the second short);

• The roof area can be calculated as ∑L * (2B + 4k).

The result of all calculations can be detailed drawing hip roof, indicating all the dimensions and parameters that will simply need to be transferred to the roofing material. By the way, based on these calculations, it will be possible to calculate how much you need to buy in order to make such a roof yourself.

Important! After self-creation drawing it is strongly recommended to provide the diagram for verification experienced specialists. Errors made in calculations can lead to dire consequences.

The hipped roof is familiar to most developers. But its second name - hip - can confuse even an experienced builder. It's all about the triangular end slopes (hips), which replaced the vertical pediments.

Why did the creators of such a roof need to complicate the design? gable roof, you ask?

There are several reasons for this:

• The aerodynamics of a hip roof are better than those of a gable roof. Therefore, it steadfastly resists strong winds.
• Triangular slopes make the roof rigid and reliable.
• The hip design makes it possible to install wide eaves overhangs protecting the façade of the building from rain.
• Aesthetics appearance This type of roof is better than a gable roof.

Construction and types of hip roofs

In order to understand how the hip hipped roof, let's consider its main elements.

Hip impenetrable roof design

As can be seen from the diagram, the main elements of this roof are the same as those of a gable roof. There is a ridge girder, rafters and a mauerlat for attaching them to the wall, racks that support the ridge and struts that relieve the middle part of the rafter legs.

The wind beam holds the rafters together during roof installation, and the fillets extend them, forming roof overhangs. The differences begin with the diagonal rafters that form the hip slopes. Short rafter legs adjacent to the diagonal rafters are called sprigs. To reduce the deflection of long hip beams, trusses are placed under them. This is the name for short T-shaped stands-stands, embedded with their ends into the Mauerlat.

Depending on the width of the building and the presence of internal walls on hip roofs, two types are used truss structures:

• hanging;
• layered.

The name of each speaks for itself. Hanging rafters rest only on the outer walls. At the top and lower parts they are connected by horizontal tie beams, providing structural rigidity. Layered rafters at the ridge joint are supported by vertical posts, in the middle part - by struts, and with their ends placed on the outer walls.

Structural diagrams of hanging and layered rafter systems for hip roofs

In addition to the classic hip roof, there are several varieties of it, created for reasons of aesthetic appeal:

• half-hip 4-slope (Danish);
• gable half-hip (Dutch);
• tent (4 identical hip slopes);
• hip with a broken slope.

Calculation features

The process of calculating a hip roof can be divided into three stages:

• The choice of slope angle depending on the type of roofing material.
• Determination of lengths structural elements roof, based on the drawings of the cross section of the building and the plan of the floor being covered.
• Selection of the cross-section and pitch of the rafters along their length, taking into account the type of wood used and the standard snow load of the construction region.

The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the roofing material. Therefore, when making a diagram of the truss structure, you need to take into account its recommended standards minimum value(in degrees):

• for slate - 22;
• soft tiles - 11;
• metal tiles - 14;
• corrugated sheets - 12;

For a roof made of a waterproof membrane, the angle of inclination of the slopes can be any. Starting from the minimum permissible value slope, its actual value is chosen depending on the purpose of the attic space.

If a living space is to be built under a hip roof, its slopes should have an angle of inclination that allows for comfortable movement within the “living area.”

The easiest way to determine the actual length of the roof structural elements is by drawing the rafter system on a scale convenient for measurements.

Knowing the length of the rafters, their pitch and cross section can be found in the table. Here's the dependency geometric dimensions rafters depending on the type of wood and the amount of snow load in the construction region.

Selection of rafter cross-section and pitch depending on length, type of wood and snow load

This table can be successfully used in “ reverse order" By choosing the pitch and cross-section of the rafter beams, the type of wood and the amount of snow load, you can easily find the maximum acceptable by standards rafter length.

The cross-section of the Mauerlat beam must be no less than the cross-section of the rafter leg. Most often it is 10x15 cm, 15x15 cm or 15x20 cm. The cross-section of the ridge beam is usually equal to the cross-section of the rafter legs.

For the sheathing, use a board 25 mm thick, filling it at intervals recommended for the chosen roofing. For installation of continuous flooring along the roof frame, use OSB board 12-15 mm thick.

Installation features

There are opinions circulating on the Internet that installing a hip roof is very complicated and time-consuming. There is some truth in this, but, at its core, the assembly of this structure is not much different from the construction of a conventional gable roof.

Hip roof for a gazebo - invaluable assembly experience

The process of installing a hip roof rafter system includes several stages:

1. A Mauerlat is laid around the perimeter of the walls. IN in this case it is placed on threaded steel studs embedded in the masonry and tightened with nuts. At the joining areas (at the corners of the house and at the splice points), landing planes are selected on the Mauerlat, cutting off half of the beam.

2. The further sequence of work depends on the width of the span to be covered (roof area). This point must be taken into account at the stage of drawing up a drawing or diagram of the roof.

You can do without racks supporting the ridge beam if the width of the building (span) is less than 7.5 meters. With a house width of 6 to 7.5 meters, the hanging rafters in the upper part must be tied with a crossbar (a beam with a cross-section of 50x100 mm).

If the width of the building is small (up to 6 meters), then the bottom tie-downs (floor beams) will be sufficient to ensure the rigidity of the rafter system.

Having laid the Mauerlat on end walls note central axis. Two outer racks are placed along it and secured with temporary struts to the floor beams. If the building is covered with panels, then a central beam is laid on them (the cross-section is the same as that of the Mauerlat). The lower ends of the outer posts are fixed on it.

The initial stage of installation - installation vertical racks under the ridge

Intermediate racks are placed in increments of 1-2 meters. If the house is covered with beams, then the racks can be mounted on them, secured with staples or screws.

3. The ridge beam is placed on the racks, the installation locations of the rafter legs are marked on the mauerlat and they are mounted. To attach the rafters to the mauerlat, a notch is used (a cut is made on the rafter leg for a tighter contact).

Cutting the rafter leg into the mauerlat increases the reliability of the joint

4. Hip (sloping, diagonal) rafters are fixed with the lower end to the mauerlat, and with the other - to the junction of the ridge beam and the outer ordinary rafters.

After this, short rafter legs (springs) are attached to them.

Anyone who wants to make a hip roof with their own hands must remember that the main attention here is paid to the quality of assembly of the components. You need to take a very responsible approach to installing the ridge beam, joining the diagonal rafters with the ridge and with the ridges.

The junction of the spigot with the hip rafter

On large roofs standard length timber (6 meters) is not enough to make a solid diagonal rafter. Therefore, it is assembled from two parts, securely fixing them together.

Hip roof overhangs are made by stuffing scraps of timber or thick boards (fillets) onto the rafters, extending 50-100 cm beyond the perimeter of the walls.

Having completed the installation of the rafter system, the sheathing is nailed to it and the roofing material is laid.

We have already talked about the hip roof on the site. There the roof structure was described with the rafters resting on the mauerlat. After publishing the article, I received many requests to show how to make a hip roof with rafters supported on floor beams, and also to answer the question whether it is possible to make a hip roof with different angles slope of the slopes.

Thus, I wanted to “kill two birds with one stone” with one example. Now we will look at the design of a hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams and with different slope angles.

So, let's say we have a house box of 8.4x10.8 meters.

STEP 1: Install the Mauerlat (see Fig. 1):

Picture 1

STEP 2: We install long floor beams with a section of 100x200 cm in increments of 0.6 meters (see Fig. 2). I won't dwell on it any further.

Figure 2

The very first to install are the beams that run strictly in the middle of the house. We will be guided by them when installing the ridge beam. Then we put the rest with a certain step. For example, we have a step of 0.6 meters, but we see that there are 0.9 meters left to the wall, and another beam could fit, but it doesn’t. We leave this span specifically for “removals”. Its width should not be less than 80-100 cm.

STEP 3: We install the stem. Their pitch is determined when calculating the rafters, about which a little later (see Fig. 3):

Figure 3

For now we are installing only the stems corresponding to the length of the ridge, which will be equal to 5 meters. Our ridge length is greater than the difference between the length and width of the house, which is 2.4 meters. What does this lead to? This leads to the fact that the corner rafter will not be located at an angle of 45° in plan (in the top view), and the angle of inclination of the slopes and hips will be different. The slopes will have a gentler slope.

It is enough to secure the stem on the Mauerlat with nails. We attach them to a long floor beam, for example, like this (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

There is no need to make any cuts in this node. Any cut will weaken the floor beam. Here we use two metal rafter fastenings type LK on the sides and one large nail (250 mm), driven through the beam into the end of the stem. We hammer in the nail very last, when the stem is already fastened to the Mauerlat.

STEP 4: Install the ridge beam (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

All elements of this structure except the struts are made of 100x150 mm timber. Struts made of boards 50x150 mm. The angle between them and the ceiling is at least 45°. We see that under the outer posts there are beams resting directly on five floor beams. We do this to distribute the load. Also, to reduce the load on the floor beams and transfer part of it to load-bearing partition, struts installed.

We determine the installation height of the ridge beam and its length for our home ourselves, making a preliminary sketch on paper.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

First of all, we make a template for the rafters. To do this, take a board of suitable length the required section, apply it as shown in Figure 6 and make markings using a small level (blue line):

Figure 6

The height of the block that we placed on the stem to mark the lower cut is equal to the depth of the upper cut. We made it 5 cm.

Using the resulting template, we make all the rafters of the slopes, resting on the ridge beam, and secure them (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

IN similar designs, where the rafters rest not on long floor beams, but on short extensions, we always place small supports under the rafters above the mauerlat, forming, as it were, a small triangle and unloading the attachment point of the extension to the beam (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

There is no need to bring these supports further inside the roof, much less place them at the junction of the extension with the beam. Most of the load from the roof is transmitted through them (this can be seen in the calculation program) and the floor beam may simply not withstand it.

Now a little about calculations. When choosing the section of rafters for a given roof, we calculate only one rafter - this is the slope rafter. It is the longest here and its angle of inclination is less than the angle of inclination of the hip rafters (explanation - we call a roof slope in the shape of a trapezoid a slope, a hip - a roof slope in the shape of a triangle). Calculations are made in the “Sling.3” tab. Example results in Figure 9:

Figure 9

Yes, I forgot to say. Who has already downloaded this calculation program from my website until December 1, 2013 There is no “Sling.3” tab. To download the updated version of the program, go to the article again at the link:

This article has also been slightly adjusted thanks to feedback from some readers, for which special thanks to them.

STEP 6: We add an extension and attach wind boards (see Fig. 10). We add enough stems to leave room for attaching the corner stem. For now, we simply sew the wind boards at the corners together, controlling their straightness. Check visually to see if the corners are sagging. If so, place temporary supports under them directly from the ground. After installing the corner extensions, we remove these supports.

Figure 10

STEP 7: We mark and install corner offsets.

First we need to pull the string along the top of the floor beams, as shown in Fig. 11

Figure 11

Now we take a beam of suitable length (the cross-section is the same as for all stems) and place it on top of the corner so that the lace is in the middle of it. From below on this beam we mark the cut lines with a pencil. (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

We remove the lace and install the timber sawn along the marked lines (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

We attach the corner extension to the Mauerlat using two roofing corners. We fasten it to the floor beam with a 135° angle and a large nail (250-300 mm). If necessary, bend the 135° corner with a hammer.

This way we install all four corner offsets.

STEP 8: We manufacture and install corner rafters.

The hip roof that I described earlier had the same angles of slope and hips. Here these angles are different and therefore the corner rafter will have its own characteristics. We also make it from two boards of the same section as the rafters. But we sew these boards together not quite usually. One will be slightly lower than the other (about 1 cm, depending on the difference in the angles of the slopes and hips).

So, first of all, we pull 3 laces on each side of the roof. Two along the corner rafters, one along the middle hip rafter (see Fig. 14):

We measure the angle between the lace and the corner stem - the bottom cut. Let's call it “α” (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

We also mark point “B”

We calculate the angle of the upper cut β = 90°- α

In our example α = 22° and β = 68°.

Now we take a small piece of board with the cross-section of the rafters and saw one end on it at an angle β. We apply the resulting blank to the ridge, combining one edge with the lace, as shown in Fig. 16:

Figure 16

A line was drawn on the workpiece parallel to the side plane of the adjacent rafter of the slope. We will make another cut using it and get a template for the top cut of our corner rafter.

Also, when we apply the workpiece, we need to mark point “A” on the rafters of the slope (see Fig. 17):

Figure 17

Now we make the first half of the corner rafter. To do this, take a board of suitable length. If one board is missing, we sew two boards together. You can sew it temporarily by cutting an inch about a meter long onto self-tapping screws. We make the top cut according to the template. We measure the distance between points “A” and “B”. We transfer it to the rafter and make the bottom cut at an angle “α”.

We install the resulting rafter and secure it (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Most likely, due to its length, the first half of the corner rafter will sag. You need to place a temporary stand under it approximately in the middle. It is not shown in my drawings.

Now we make the second half of the corner rafter. To do this, measure the size between points “C” and “D” (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

We take a board of suitable length, make the top cut at an angle β, measure the distance “S-D”, make the bottom cut at an angle α. We install the second half of the corner rafter and sew it to the first with nails (100 mm). We drive the nails at intervals of approximately 40-50 cm. The result is shown in Fig. 20:

Figure 20

The upper end of the second half of the corner rafter needs to be sawed down again. We do this with a chainsaw right on the spot (Fig. 21):

Figure 21

In the same way, we manufacture and install the three remaining corner rafters.

STEP 9: We install racks under the corner rafters. First of all, it is imperative to install a stand resting on the junction of the corner extension with the floor beam (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

If the length of the span covered by a corner rafter (its horizontal projection) more than 7.5 meters, we place more racks at a distance of approximately ¼ of the span from the top point of the corner rafter. If the span is more than 9 meters, add racks in the middle of the corner rafter. In our example, this span is 5.2 meters.

STEP 10: We install two central hip rafters. At the beginning of the 8th step, we already pulled the laces to measure them.

We make the rafters in this way - we measure the angle of the lower gash “γ” with a small tool, calculate the angle of the upper gash “δ”:

δ = 90° - γ

We measure the distance between the points “K-L” and make a rafter along it. We file the ends at the angles we have determined. After this, the upper end needs to be filed down (sharpened) again, taking into account the angle “φ”, which we also measure using a small tool (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

STEP 11: Add offset to the corners. We make the outermost extensions, which do not reach the mauerlat, lightweight, from a 50x200 mm board (see Fig. 24):

Figure 24

STEP 12: We install spigots. I described in detail how to make spigots in the first article about. Here the principle is absolutely the same, so I will not repeat it (see Fig. 25):

Figure 25

We attach the brackets to the corner rafters using metal corner 135°, bending it if necessary.

After installing all the frames, all we have to do is hem the cornices from below and make the sheathing. We have already talked about this many times.