Insulation of a metal chimney pipe: materials, nuances and methods. Chimney insulation: what and how to insulate a chimney How to close a hot pipe

The construction of a chimney duct in a private house requires compliance with sealing rules and against fire safety. During construction chimney in a house or at the exit of a metal chimney in a bathhouse through the roof, chimney insulation is the main indicator proper organization this block of work.

The junction of the chimney with the ceiling and roofing materials remains a vulnerable area due to possible overheating and roof fires. To eliminate the possibility of a fire, it is important to organize the insulation and sealing of the roof in accordance with all the rules.

Pipe insulation at the junction

Release of new building materials and development advanced technologies– guarantee of effective thermal insulation. The choice of materials for this purpose is largely determined by the shape of the chimney, the method of wrapping the pipe that removes hot gaseous substances when burning fuel.

The main difficulty is to prevent the materials adjacent to the chimney from overheating so that they do not ignite in any type of building.

Most buildings in private households have a chimney coming from:

• solid fuel boiler;
• fireplace;
• ovens;
• stoves for cooking.

They have different degrees of load and levels of heating to the maximum temperature, but insulation is needed in each case. A prefabricated or modular chimney, produced as a sandwich system, involves ready-made insulation of double pipes with a layer of basalt wool. It is effective both for insulation, to reduce the likelihood of condensation, and as protection against overheating of roofing materials as they exit through the roof. It remains to properly organize the tightness of this passage so that moisture does not enter the house.

Before insulating a pipe in a bathhouse or residential building, you should choose the most suitable option for your design. Ceramic chimney no less effective and durable, used for a fireplace or bath. To assemble finished design includes components from fire-fighting materials. Some of them are adjacent directly to the pipe or cover it, others are designed to seal the passage through the roof.

The choice of location for the chimney outlet should be such as to facilitate insulation work. But the pipe should rise 30-40cm above the ridge, in order to avoid backdraft when strong wind, so the pipe is often taken out through the ridge.

How to choose the right chimney outlet location

In houses of an old design, when everything stove chimneys were made of brickwork, round pipes exit through the square opening of the ceiling. The passage area in the ceiling is equipped with a special box made of wood or metal, maintaining a sufficient distance to the chimney.

It is important to properly insulate this “window” so that all gaps are filled and the materials at the junction are protected from fire. This gap is filled with mineral wool, and special fire-resistant plaster is used. Basalt and asbestos blocks are also used in a brick chimney.

Safe and protected exit of the chimney pipe through the roof opening is solved in 2 directions:

• fire protection rafter frame roofs where the pipe passes;
• waterproofing the hole from the penetration of atmospheric precipitation with those materials that will help insulate the pipe and are most suitable for the type of roofing material and its color.

Exiting the pipe through the roofing pie according to all fire safety standards

Separation of chimney and multilayer roofing pie(with insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier) is produced according to all modern standards:

• for double metal pipes, internal insulation with mineral wool is provided;
• a single pipe is covered with a finished insulating shell of the required diameter and protected from the outside;
• in brickwork it is important to increase the thickness of the walls (38-40 cm) and protect the contacting surfaces with special plaster.

The box for the outlet of the chimney pipe is constructed from a transverse beam and rafters, maintaining the distance from wooden structure to the metal chimney at least 15 cm. The gap between them is filled with basalt wool.

Fire safety regulations state that the temperature in the contact circle of the chimney should not exceed 50ºC. The film membranes inside the roofing pie can be made of flammable materials, so a gap and additional insulation with non-flammable mineral wool are required between them and the pipe.

The membranes of the roofing pie, cut at the point where the pipe exits, must be carefully cut and wrapped. Then they are pressed with lathing and secured along the edges of the box with nails. To completely seal the roof, the pipe in this place must be wrapped with a special one.

When the chimney goes through an unheated attic, and not in a residential attic, the risk of overheating of roof elements is reduced. Complete tightness of insulation is necessary in any option, but better pipe additionally wrap with special tape. Competent installation internal waterproofing and the outer cap will ensure reliable sealing after installing thermal insulation of the chimney in the roof opening.

Chimney insulation options

In most cases, well-organized chimney insulation on the roof will prevent precipitation from leaking. But there are 2 types of possible leaks:

• from above, when the insulating cap is not installed correctly over roofing materials;
• from below when waterproofing agents are not installed correctly under the decking.

The simplest way external insulation chimney– installation of a finished insulating apron or cap.

Try cutting a similar device from a galvanized sheet yourself to fix a leak in an old roof, this will save money. With this method, no adjustment is needed - all the design features of the roof and the pipe coming out of it are taken into account.

Products of this type are also produced from different materials. It is important to choose an insulating cap (apron) that fits the width of the metal chimney pipe. Or a complete roof passage is selected, which is purchased together with a sandwich pipe.

Any building and roof gradually shrink, so rigid fastening of waterproofing is not always effective. Visually, the integrity of the roof is preserved, and signs of depressurization gradually appear at the joints. Experts recommend strengthening the insulation at the places where the cap is attached - with an elastic, heat-resistant gasket.

Among the most reliable structures for passing a pipe through a roof is a specially made box - similar to a rafter system. Instead of wood, which is a flammable material, it can be made from galvanized roofing, but according to the same scheme.

The design of modular chimneys has ready-made thermal insulation, but they differ in configuration. For example, there is a double pipe with a layer of basalt wool or a special ceramic core and an outer casing made of concrete. The assembly of modular blocks is quite simple - a diagram is included with purchase.

It is possible to install an asbestos gasket followed by sealing with an asbestos solution. Every new block module is attached above the previous one with the same mixture composition. After installation is completed, the pipe is isolated from leaks in the roof window using any described method.

Modern roofing with corrugated sheets has its own characteristics - here it is better to make the window for the chimney a little wider. All joining surfaces are also filled with materials with thermal insulating properties. The chimney, before being wrapped with basalt wool, is placed in a steel box. Carefully cut the film layers of vapor and waterproofing and secure them by the edges of the box. Be sure to make a heat-resistant filling between it and the pipe.

Next, external waterproofing is carried out - a sealing cap material corresponding to the size of the chimney pipe is put on top, the edge is secured with a clamp using glue. The lower edge fits tightly to the roofing material and is firmly fixed with sealant. A steel cap is often included with such a chimney. They are put on pipes round shape. Installation is recommended when the smoke output from a solid fuel boiler has a temperature of more than 100°C.

If you properly insulate the chimney pipe, then you will not be in danger of dampness and a rotten ceiling.

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The chimney is the most important element of a stove or heating system private house. For the pipe to function effectively, insulation is necessary, which only seems simple. The design and installation of insulation requires compliance with certain rules and compliance with safety regulations, and professional skills from the contractor.

Why insulate a chimney pipe outdoors?

The chimney experiences heavy loads during operation: the action of hot air and pressure. Tons of combustion products pass through the chimney, which, under certain conditions, enter with air and moisture. chemical reaction. As a result, the process of natural corrosion accelerates, which leads to disruption of the pipe. Insulation reduces the risk of mechanical and chemical corrosion of the chimney. The costs of insulating the system will be fully recouped, as they lead to tangible positive results.

Causes of chimney destruction

During operation, the chimney elements undergo gradual destruction, which can lead to failure of the entire stove (fireplace) system.

There are two factors that damage the chimney pipe:

• moisture;
• chemical substances.

Moisture on the walls of the pipe is condensation, which is formed as a result of the meeting of hot air rising from the furnace with cold outside air. As the liquid accumulates, it gradually destroys the pipe. High temperatures act as a catalyst, increasing the corrosion rate several times.

Another reason is aggressive substances that arise during fuel combustion. Under influence high temperature and moisture form active compounds: acids, alkalis, salts, which penetrate into the thickness of the material along with condensate and cause chemical corrosion.

The impact of destructive factors depends on the temperature difference between air flow rising from the firebox and the walls of the chimney. The more the pipe is cooled from the outside, the stronger the destructive effect.

Advantages of an insulated chimney

Chimney insulation minimizes the impact of factors that reduce the service life of the pipe. the main task The solution that the insulation solves is to raise the level of condensation formation as high as possible (ideally, up to the very end of the pipe, i.e., to direct contact with the outside air). This is achieved by increasing the temperature on the inner surface smoke channel and reducing the temperature difference between steam and pipe. Insulation significantly increases the service life of the pipe, and, consequently, its service life. Besides, Maintenance pipes will be carried out less frequently and at lower costs. What does chimney insulation provide:

1. Eliminates the formation of condensation, prevents the action of aggressive components that simply evaporate along with the flow of hot air.
2. Protects the structure from external factors(air temperature, precipitation, wind).
3. Provides an energy-saving effect, which consists in lower thermal output of the chimney. This leads to savings in fuel needed to maintain the required temperature in the furnace.

The insulation prevents the destruction of the pipe material under the influence of precipitation, and also increases the frost resistance of the system. Thermal insulation eliminates the effect of elevated temperature on roofing material in areas of contact with the chimney. This eliminates the risk of roof destruction in the area where the pipe is attached, which leads to cost savings during ongoing repairs.

How to insulate the outside of a chimney?

In order to reliably insulate chimneys, materials are used that provide high degree thermal insulation. They exclude the influence of external climatic factors on the heat balance in the chimney duct. Manufacturers building materials offer modern thermal insulation materials V large assortment, some of which are used as insulation for pipes.

Basalt thermal insulation

Thermal insulation, which is made from mineral wool or basalt, is widely used for insulating chimneys. This material is formed by fibers obtained from the melt of volcanic rock - gabbro-basalt, and therefore has high heat resistance and strength. Advantages of basalt thermal insulation:

• high thermal insulation properties (up to 95% of the heat is stored inside the channel);
• good permeability to steam with high waterproofing parameters;
• high chemical and corrosion resistance;
• resistance to the formation of mold and fungi;
• vibration resistance;
• high heat resistance (maintains properties when heated to 100 degrees);
• non-flammability;
• environmental cleanliness;
• resistance to ultraviolet radiation (sun rays).

Stainless steel casing

Recently, standard metal casings in the form of a stainless steel pipe have been used. The use of a metal shell provides high mechanical strength, reliable protection against moisture and aggressive substances.

This casing is installed on a chimney made of steel stainless pipe smaller diameter. The interpipe space is filled with mineral basalt wool. The outside of the casing is covered with insulation up to 5 cm thick. The thickness of the gap between the pipes is 7-10 cm.

Wooden shields

One of the simplest insulation materials is wooden panels. This insulation is manufactured in the form wooden frame from panels with dimensions corresponding to the dimensions of the chimney pipes. On top wooden shields slate or other roofing material similar to the roof covering is fixed.

After installing the frame around the pipe, the space between them is filled with thermal insulation - felt, mineral wool, slag, asbestos, sand. The seams of the wooden frame must be coated with a waterproofing compound.

Slag concrete, reinforced concrete slabs

The chimney insulation can be made from slag concrete or reinforced concrete slabs. Such plates are installed around the chimney with the smallest gap. The space between the slabs and the pipe, as well as the seams at the corners of the slab joints, are reinforced with steel wire or mesh. The gap is filled with a solution of gypsum, sand and clay. The joints of the slabs are reinforced with concrete mortar. Plaster is applied over the tiled insulation.

How to insulate a chimney with your own hands?

The chimneys of houses have different designs and are made from various materials. The most common: brickwork, asbestos-cement slabs, metal tubular chimneys. Each design has specific properties and requires individual approach during installation.

Brick chimney

Insulation brick chimney can be done with your own hands in several ways.

1. The first method is plaster. On outside The brickwork chimney is secured with a steel reinforcing mesh. A layer of plaster mortar 30 mm thick is applied on top of it. The solution is a mixture of lime and slag with the addition of a small amount of cement. After the first layer has dried, apply a second layer of the same solution, and then another 2-3 layers. The last coating is thoroughly rubbed, puttied, and then completely dry painted or whitened with lime.
2. Another method involves using mineral insulation. A basalt sheet is attached to the pipe on all sides (you can use tape for fastening). Outside, a cladding made of asbestos-cement slabs with a thickness of more than 40 mm is installed on the cotton wool covering. Instead of such slabs, you can build another brickwork. A leveling layer of plaster is applied on top of the cladding.

The main advantages of such a complex design:

• heat losses are reduced by 2 times;
• the likelihood of condensation accumulation is significantly reduced;
• the strength and durability of the structure significantly increases.

Asbestos cement chimney

If the chimney pipe is made of asbestos cement, then insulation is carried out in the following order:

1. The insulation design with a metal casing, which is made of galvanized steel, is used. In the case where the chimney is long, the casing is mounted from several sections in the form of a cylindrical pipe no more than 1.5 m long (the sections are placed on top of each other with an overlap of up to 10 cm).
2. The gap between the chimney and the casing must be more than 60 mm. It is filled mineral wool gradually with careful compaction.
3. After the gap is completely filled, the top of the structure is filled with thick concrete mortar.

A simplified design can be used. 3 layers of mineral basalt wool are wound around the pipe, then polymer film and foil are applied. Strengthening the structure is provided by metal brackets, which are attached on top of the foil layer.

Yulia Petrichenko

Steel chimney

Steel chimneys made from stainless pipes are used required diameter. The insulation of such a chimney is done using another stainless pipe bigger size. The internal diameter of the outer casing must exceed the outer circumference of the chimney by at least 10 cm. The gap between the pipes is filled with thermal insulation material - preferably basalt wool. Filling is done gradually, in parts, with sufficient compaction.

Modern steel chimneys are made in the form of sandwich structures, i.e. in finished form they have a layered system with thermal insulation. This chimney pipe does not require installation additional insulation and reliable in operation.

Insulating a chimney in the attic

The need to insulate the chimney in the attic is determined by the type of room: cold or heated in winter. If the temperature here is the same as outside, then you need to install insulation on the pipe.

To insulate a pipe in a cold attic, you can use any of the considered structures, taking into account that the likelihood of direct exposure to precipitation is excluded. Therefore, it is recommended to insulate using wooden panels, and the outer side of the frame should be aesthetically treated.

Heated attics are characterized by this design - a frame made of wooden board or chipboard with a thickness of at least 18 mm, the gap between the chimney and the pipe is at least 50 mm. It is recommended to use basalt wool or felt as a filler.

When making chimney insulation with your own hands, you will need the following standard tool:

• perforator;
• electric drill;
• Bulgarian;
• trowel for plaster;
• grater;
• rule;
• paint brush;
• metal scissors;
• scissors;
• metal ruler;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• level.

When planning private construction, people do not think about the special role of chimneys and the need for their insulation. In fact, the insulation is important element, allowing to increase the durability of the entire furnace system.

If you know other methods and secrets of chimney insulation, please share in the comments!

Chimney insulation: instructions for doing the work yourself

Condensation is the main enemy of any chimney. It is formed on the inner surface of the chimney from moisture contained in the air as a result of the difference in temperature outside and inside the room. Condensed moisture enters microcracks and seams of the inner surface of the chimney, freezes when the temperature drops, and, expanding, destroys the masonry.

Metal chimneys also suffer greatly from condensation, because this liquid substance is nothing more than low concentration sulfuric acid. Condensate formed on the inner surface of the metal flue gradually renders it unusable. The only way to combat the formation of this rather aggressive liquid is to insulate the chimney pipe. It is this procedure that will eliminate the cause of condensation on the inner surface of the chimney.

There are several main ways to insulate chimneys. The choice of one method or another directly depends on the material from which the gas exhaust paths are made. The most common in our country are brick chimneys, as well as steel and asbestos-cement pipes, which are widely used by many private developers.

Insulating a chimney from the outside is far from the most difficult procedure in construction, and therefore such work can always be done independently, without involving professionals.

At self-insulation chimney, you must strictly observe safety precautions, because you will have to work at height. Special attention You should pay attention to shoes that should be comfortable and have non-slip soles.

Thermal insulation of brick chimneys

There are three most simple ways insulation of a brick chimney, which you can do yourself:

Work method: plastering

• First, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on the pipe, and a plaster solution is prepared, consisting of sifted slag, cement, lime and water, in a ratio of 3: 1: 2. The amount of water is selected independently. The solution should fit well on the prepared base, not flow or fall off it.
• After all preparations, the first layer of solution, 2-3 cm thick, is applied to the reinforcing mesh.

Subsequent layers plaster mixture Can be applied only after the previous ones have completely dried.

• After applying the last layer, the surface of the plaster should be leveled for subsequent painting. If cracks appear on the surface after drying, they must be puttied and the surface thoroughly rubbed.
• Paint the pipe with chalk or lime mortar.

Insulation of chimneys using glass wool or mineral wool materials

To independently carry out work on insulating a brick chimney with these materials, you will need: U-shaped profile, vapor barrier, corrugated sheeting. It is best to use mats made of basalt fiber or glass wool, 50–100 mm thick.

• First of all, you should prepare the brick surface by clearing it of protruding cement mortar, seal cracks, etc.
• After, from metal profiles the frame is assembled. The upper guide should be attached directly to the masonry, and the lower one to the roof.
• The next step will be attaching the vertical profiles. fasten vertical racks should be done in such a way that insulation can be easily laid into the resulting sheathing required thickness.
• Joints insulation material should be secured with tape, and the insulation itself, using special plastic dowels, to the masonry.
• After which the resulting structure should be wrapped with a vapor barrier film.
• The last stage Insulation involves covering the resulting structure with corrugated sheets, securing it to the sheathing using self-tapping screws.

The above methods can be combined by attaching insulation to a brick pipe and plastering it with several layers of cement mortar.

Insulating the chimney pipe with your own hands will significantly reduce heat loss from the heating system of the house and will reliably protect the brick chimney from the formation of internal surfaces condensate

Thermal insulation of asbestos-cement chimneys

Insulating a chimney from an asbestos-cement pipe yourself is not difficult for anyone. home handyman. To do this you will need: pliers, knitting wire, galvanized sheet, rolled basalt insulation or glass wool insulation.

This is the most simple and sufficient cheap way protect the asbestos-cement pipe from exposure to weather factors and prevent condensation from appearing in the chimney.

Thermal insulation of steel chimneys

To carry out the work yourself, you will need: a larger diameter pipe, insulation material with good thermal insulation properties and non-flammability properties. Today, most foreign and domestic companies, producing insulation materials, offer special material, made in the form of half-cylinders. This type of insulation is ideal for thermal insulation. steel chimneys round section.

• First of all, you should select a metal pipe of a suitable diameter so that the distance between it inner wall and the chimney was at least 5 cm.
• After that, you should put a section of pipe of larger diameter onto the gas outlet, and tightly fill the space between them with insulation.

To make the work easier, you should carry out this procedure step by step, connecting the prepared sections of the chimney together.

All of the above methods for insulating chimneys are quite simple, but if you feel it is difficult to carry out one or another method of insulation, then do not take risks and contact professionals who will do this work quickly and efficiently.

Insulating a chimney in a private house - important rules and recommendations

Chimney insulation in a private house is a question that any person living outside the city faces. This allows you to save money, because by carrying out insulation work, you will protect the chimney from various types of damage. Today they made from various materials. asbestos pipes, steel and much more, but brick is most often used, and therefore this process should be considered separately.

Why do you need chimney insulation?

Rapid destruction of pipes occurs most often in harsh climatic conditions. The reason for this may be the resulting different temperatures condensation, which causes the walls of the chimney to become saturated with moisture. And this is especially dangerous if on the street subzero temperature.

Insulation of a brick chimney is what you need. You can carry out this procedure even by simple plastering with reinforcing mesh, but it is much more reliable and safer - with the help of mineral wool and siding.

DIY metal chimney

The chimney is a vertically located pipe of square or round cross-section and is necessary for rooms with internal heating.

The main purpose of the design is to create natural traction:

• release of combustion products into the atmosphere
• air flow into the firebox for better combustion.

Classification by type

Metal chimneys are classified into two main types:

• single-circuit. Used as a chimney lining indoors or as a protective pipe for an existing brick chimney. This type is easy to install and requires minimal investment.
• double-circuit. More complex design, consisting of an internal metal pipe for chimney from of stainless steel High Quality and external larger cross-section. The interpipe space is filled with insulating material based on basalt rocks.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of a metal chimney:

• Possibility of installation in an already constructed building
• does not require additional foundation, as it has light weight
• inherent round cross section – best option to create traction
• has a high natural draft efficiency
• fully complies with fire safety regulations
• resistant to corrosion
• has high mechanical strength
• the material does not contribute to the accumulation of soot, therefore does not require frequent cleaning
• sealed, gas-tight
• durable
• affordable prices and ease of installation.

The disadvantages of a do-it-yourself metal chimney are primarily related to additional expenses:

• on the supporting structure for tall pipes
• for preliminary design work on the arrangement of the future chimney.

Installation of a metal chimney

Installation of a metal chimney provides several options. Let's look at each of them in more detail. But before we start construction work, it is best to make a preliminary drawing.

Installation diagram of a metal chimney (pipe) outside and inside.

Pipe installation

1. The first stage is making a channel for the chimney. The hole should be smooth and 1.5 times wider in diameter than the pipe used. It is best to place the chimney closer to the ridge.
2. Then you should adjust the pipe to the size of the building. The recommended height of the pipe above the ridge is calculated using the following formula: L0.5/3, where L is the total length of the pipe from the beginning to the ridge.
3. The stage of installing a metal pipe into a completed channel involves fastening it to the wall every 1.5 meters.
4. Next comes the connection of the capacitor to the firebox itself.
5. If you use a steel pipe, you must take care of the insulation between the chimney and the interfloor surfaces. Clay can be used as an insulating material.
6. At the stage decorative arrangement When installing a chimney, it is important to use exclusively fire-resistant materials.
7. The final stage is the installation of the chimney head.

In the future, during operation, the chimney will require periodic cleaning, and you also need to know how to wrap a metal chimney pipe to insulate it.

Installation of sandwich pipes

It is not advisable to use sandwich pipes for the construction of an external chimney - due to their critical reaction to temperature changes. In all other respects, this material has its advantages:

Sandwich pipes are joined together in grooves, additionally fastened construction glue. Due to the own weight of a single slab and the glue, the metal chimney device is generally sealed and does not allow smoke to pass through during operation.

Installation of an external chimney

1. The hole in the wall for the pipe should be 0.5 meters above the firebox.
2. Next are installed fasteners(brackets) for the pipe on the outside of the building in 1 meter increments.
3. Then follows the connection of the chimney to the boiler.
4. The pipe is routed to the street using an additional angle.
5. Next, install the condenser and secure the pipe.
6. The final stage– installation of a roof over the chimney.

Insulation

The main task of insulation is to eliminate the possibility of condensation that forms in the pipe as a result of temperature changes. Therefore, the question often arises of how to insulate metal chimney.

Insulation of a metal chimney

• First you need to get two metal pipes various diameters. The difference in diameters should be at least 5 cm.
• A pipe of larger diameter is placed on a pipe of smaller cross-section, and the resulting crotch is filled with insulation.
• It is best to build the structure step by step. When assembling the pipe elbow by elbow, insulation should be laid at the same time.
• The insulation should fit tightly so that there is no free space.

You should also know how to insulate a metal chimney pipe. The highest quality heat insulators are considered to be materials based on mineral and basalt wool.

Today's building materials market is represented by a variety of ready-made insulation materials, which simply need to be placed on a metal pipe and wrapped with an additional casing.

If you decide to build a bathhouse, then do not forget about high-quality insulation stove, chimney, walls and ceiling. Otherwise, you may experience serious problems with a fire in the ceiling of the building. Therefore, we will try to dwell in more detail on a pressing problem today - insulating a pipe in a bathhouse with our own hands.

Protective materials for wooden structures

Due to the fact that the chimney and stove heat up quickly, a fire may occur. Moreover, according to tradition, the material for the bathhouse is wood. Back in the old days, it was customary to insulate the walls, ceiling, stove, chimney with an asbestos layer, clay and other available materials, quite poorly conductive thermal energy and resistant to elevated temperatures.

So how to cover the stove pipe today? Insulation of the chimney structure is necessary both for fire safety and protection against condensation, so that cooling occurs more slowly and the smoke exhaust system lasts longer.

It is a mistaken belief that a few will be enough to insulate from fire. metal sheets, which are used to cover the ceiling around the chimney. After all, metal also heats up quickly, so it will not protect against fire, and it will also not be suitable as a heat insulator.

Red brick is not always needed for pipe lining, although it is endowed with excellent thermal insulation properties. The reason is that similar design The design is not suitable for every bath.

To better understand how to wrap a chimney pipe against fire, consider two options insulating materials as:

• thermal insulation;
• folgoisol.

Furnace pipe insulation: teploizol

This unique material, the structure of which includes foamed polyethylene located between a pair of sheets of foil. Using thermal insulation, you can qualitatively insulate a chimney, and do it yourself.

The thickness of the thermal insulation varies from 2 to 10 mm, and the thicker the material, the greater its resistance to high temperatures.

The top layer of foil serves reliable protection pipes from significant overheating. Using wire or adhesive tape, a metal craftsman attaches thermal insulation, which is then wrapped around the chimney.

You can wrap the chimney with foil insulation

Modern material includes two layers: heat insulator and foil. The second one plays a reflective function and can save up to 90% of the thermal energy in the building. Folgoizol − harmless material compared to other analogues, since the foil is compacted food grade. The material is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and elevated temperatures within the range of -65 to +175 degrees Celsius, good insulator.

For those who don’t yet know how to insulate a chimney pipe in a sauna, we recommend covering the steam room ceiling, walls and chimney with foil insulation. As a result, you will get a room whose design resembles a thermos. The heat will remain in the sauna, but the bathhouse will quickly gain temperature and then slowly cool down. Sometimes a mesh is installed on the pipe for stones in the bathhouse, which is very convenient and practical.

To the rescue - sandwich pipes

For those who want to install a safe chimney in their bathhouse, we suggest using a sandwich pipe. This design includes several sections that can easily be placed inside each other, i.e. looks like a multi-layer cake.

Here are the main components of a sandwich pipe:

• stainless steel layer (inside);
• insulation in the form of basalt/mineral wool (in the middle);
• steel with zinc coating (outside).

This creative design represents the insulation of a chimney built into common system, and is designed to solve two problems simultaneously:

• protection against soot accumulation inside;
• maintaining optimal temperature outside.

The sandwich pipe is easy to assemble yourself and can be used for a sauna with iron stove or baths. What to do if you built a Russian steam room with a brick stove? Below we will consider how to line the pipe in this situation in order to protect it from ignition.

Pipe insulation in a traditional Russian bathhouse

At elevated temperatures, fire-resistant red brick retains its operational properties, therefore it is in demand when constructing a chimney in a bathhouse with a stone stove. In this case, you are guaranteed protection of the pipe from fire and long-term heat retention.

From how well it is built brick pipe, depends on the service life of the structure. Do not skimp on materials during the construction of the chimney, because... Then the repair will cost you much more.

Let's take a closer look at how to insulate a pipe in a bathhouse from the ceiling:

1. Use asbestos to cover the pipe outlet on the ceiling and through the roof.
2. Using galvanized material, insulate the walls on the inside of the pipe. Standard iron sheets are completely unsuitable for this purpose due to their tendency to corrosion.
3. Make a box around the pipe where it passes through the ceiling.
4. Pour expanded clay inside the box to retain heat and protect the wooden floors from fire.

You have professionally wrapped the pipe, but this is not the end of the chimney installation work. The next step is measures to insulate the stove, ceiling and walls of the bathhouse.

Fire protection of the furnace

Modern metal stoves mounted on the foundation, while covering the back and sides of the walls with sheets of the same material. If you cover the stove yourself with only metal, then it will appearance will not be very aesthetic. It is better to make external masonry with red brick, which insulates the stove from fire and retains heat in the bathhouse.

Due to the fact that asbestos releases at elevated temperatures toxic substances, it is not recommended to use it in a steam room. Natural felt is considered harmless and is also a good insulator. The price of this material is more expensive than asbestos sheets, and when smoldering it emits specific smell(the felt does not light up), which can be immediately felt.

If you intend to install the stove on a wooden floor, then first it is better to lay felt material in a couple of layers, then lay brick in three rows. For walls and floors, it is recommended to lay metal sheets as an insulator, the height of which varies from 50 to 70 cm.

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Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse

The chimney in the bathhouse must be made detachable, that is, from two parts: lower and upper. Not only because it will be easier to install it this way, but also in order to achieve the best efficiency.

Firstly, steel pipe the inside of the bathhouse will release heat, warming the space in the steam room faster.

Secondly, it can be replaced without damaging the thermal insulation layer.

The lower pipe, which extends directly from the fire source - the stove, heats up more and burns out, which is why it needs periodic replacement.

The connection of the parts of the riser must be made in the middle of the attic of the bathhouse. This will allow for proper thermal insulation of the upper part of the chimney. Both pipes usually have the same cross-section because they are sections of one.

The upper part of the riser should be insulated according to the following instructions. First of all, you need to wrap it with insulation, then measure the diameter of the resulting structure. This size will be needed in order to determine the width of the galvanized steel sheet from which the casing for the outer pipe will be made.

Scheme of installing the furnace on the foundation for additional insulation.

Having received the initial data, we proceed to isolation:

• we cut out two rectangles from a sheet of galvanized steel and roll them around the circumference, connecting the edges by rolling;
• we cut off a strip of 20 cm from the same sheet and the length of the corresponding circumference of the riser, adding 30 mm, - we get a clamp with which we connect the lower and upper parts of the chimney;
• We make four more rings using the same dimensions in order to close the insulation at the upper and lower ends;
• We weld a metal strip 4 cm wide and 2 mm thick around the circumference to the end of the upper part of the chimney from below to form a pipe on which the upper pipe will be supported.

In the ceiling above the passing riser should be cut square hole 40 cm so that the chimney is located exactly in its center. A similar hole is made in the outer roof of the bathhouse. Then you should cut out two squares from a thick sheet of metal measuring 50x50 cm. They need to be fixed to the ceiling and roof. It is necessary to drill holes in the corners of the workpieces for subsequent fastening. Holes should be made in the center of the metal squares, equal to diameter boner On the workpiece that will be attached to the roof, the hole must be made not round, but oval, because it will need to be hemmed to the roof slope.

Making a sandwich chimney

Further steps for installing a sandwich chimney are carried out in the following order:

• we put a galvanized casing on the riser, insulated with mineral wool, the ends of the segments of which should first be sealed with rings, bending the edges of the outer pipes to fix them;
• the upper, insulated end of the lower riser is pushed into a round hole in the ceiling, the lower single-circuit section of the chimney is put on the stove pipe;
• making sure that the chimney runs exactly in the center of the hole in the ceiling, you should screw the sheet of metal to the ceiling;
• We push the upper part of the chimney through the hole in the roof, then place it in the same way on the lower part of the riser, flush against the pipes welded in advance. We connect both parts with a clamp;
• screw the top sheet of metal to the inside of the roof;
• We pour expanded clay onto a sheet of metal located around the riser or fill it with clay or asbestos.

Diagram of a sandwich pipe with insulation.

However, insulation is possible using another method - by putting ready-made sections of thermal insulation on the top pipe, which can withstand temperatures up to 1500°C. Teploizol is a layer of foamed polyethylene, which is covered with aluminum foil. Rectangular pieces are also cut out of it and wrapped around the chimney to insulate it.

The material Folgoizol, the outer shell of which is made of food-grade aluminum, has a similar property.

The upper part of the chimney is wrapped with any of these materials: from the junction with the bottom to the exit from the roof opening. Metal clamps are used to secure the insulation.

Before you start wrapping the pipe with mineral wool, thermal insulation or foil insulation, the outer surface of the chimney should be treated with a special heat-resistant sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1000°C. This is necessary in order to outer layer the sandwich chimney did not slide on the surface of the metal pipe.

After insulating the chimney, care should be taken to ensure sufficient waterproofing. Where the pipe passes through the roof of the bathhouse, you need to install a seal using factory sealant. A tin cap should be welded to the top to protect the chimney opening from precipitation.