Without high-quality thermal insulation at home, you can save winter period heating will not work. Walls and floors are not the only ways through which heat leaves a living space. In addition to them, it is also necessary to insulate the roof.

Internal insulation scheme

A kind of pie is high-quality insulation roof from the inside, consisting in almost all cases of three main layers:

1. Waterproofing
2. Thermal insulation
3. Vapor barrier

However, the basis of the entire structure is the rafter system, which will act as a base link. The easiest way is to lay a thermal insulation layer inside it.

Properly selected materials for each layer of the pie are the basis for high-quality insulation. The market is rich in various products, but you should not pay attention only to cheap options, giving preference to the golden mean.

The main purpose of the waterproofing layer is to protect the insulation from moisture from outside. It accumulates inside it, destroys the structure of the material and renders it unusable. The task of the vapor barrier layer is to prevent rising vapors from passing through.

To protect against wet environments, special membrane or film materials are used. The permeability indicators of the former are better, but their market value is more expensive. Since it will not be possible to ensure complete sealing of the insulation, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps and seams.

Introductory video on insulating a pitched roof in a house

Choosing thermal insulation material

Many manufacturers offer consumers a variety of thermal insulators, each of which has positive and negative sides. Among all operational characteristics, special attention is paid to the following:

• Level of moisture absorption - the lower this ability of the materials in question, the more long term their services can be counted on
• Thermal conductivity – it should be as low as possible. However, this indicator is relative, since an increase in porosity and importance can significantly worsen it
• Low-density insulation materials have much better thermal insulation properties

Video on material selection

You should also pay attention to such characteristics as environmental friendliness, chemical resistance, flammability and frost resistance.

The most widely used materials for insulating roofs from the inside are mineral wool and glass wool. They have all the necessary characteristics and are relatively easy to use.

Expanded polystyrene is no less popular. In addition to high thermal insulation properties, it practically does not absorb moisture, is durable and tough, resistant to high temperatures and open fire. A significant disadvantage is the susceptibility to rodent infestation. That is why it has not become widespread.

Other, less common methods of internal insulation are also possible:

• The use of spraying is one of the most expensive methods, which is recommended to be trusted to a professional master. If you need to insulate a conventional attic, you should choose this method. Material costs will be paid off by performance characteristics
• Insulation with liquid compounds (polyurethane foam or foam concrete) is not very popular, as it requires the use of specialized equipment to carry out the work

If thermal insulation of a classic attic space is required, additional insulation is provided above the ceiling (expanded clay, sawdust, sand, etc.).

Let's start insulating the roof with our own hands

The most common case is the insulation of pitched roofs using roll materials. First of all, you need to draw up instructions for yourself, following which you can count on high quality result. Let's consider the case when the roof has not yet been laid.

First, you need to go through the attic again and make sure that all the components are in perfect order. If defects are found (rotting, cracks, etc.), they should be eliminated immediately.

Sometimes various communication systems are laid on the roof: electrical wiring, heating, water supply, etc. They are also subject to thorough inspection and elimination of defects. Only after order has been established can further work begin.

The first step will be to apply a waterproofing film to the outer surface. In order for it to fulfill its purpose, several rules must be taken into account:

• It is necessary to lay the film across, and at the joints, stripes of about a meter are applied, which are glued with tape.
• It is necessary to select a material for waterproofing only after purchasing insulation so that they match each other’s characteristics
• Under no circumstances should you pull it tightly over the surface. At sub-zero temperature it will begin to tighten and, as a result, may burst

Having completed the work with waterproofing, it is necessary to begin arranging the sheathing. For it, beams treated with antiseptic materials with a size of no more than 25 mm are recommended. Corrosion-resistant self-tapping screws are used for fixation

Roofing materials can be attached directly to the sheathing. Things will be a little different with soft roof. It is recommended to place between it and the wood moisture resistant drywall or chipboard.

The next stage is laying thermal insulation material into the gaps between the rafters. It is recommended to adjust the slabs to the width between the rafter opening; the mats are cut into pieces equal to each other.

The material is laid in such a way that there are no gaps between the elements. You should also not press it very tightly to the roof so that there is a ventilation gap.

Another feature is the laying of thermal insulation material not in one, but in two layers. At the same time, they are positioned relative to each other with an offset so that the through joints are closed.

Having finished laying the insulation, you can proceed to the next stage - tensioning and fastening the vapor barrier film or membrane. It is recommended to nail it to the rafters with staples. It, unlike waterproofing, is stretched much tighter.

Next, you can proceed to the final stage of insulating the roof from the inside - interior decoration. Stuffed on top of the vapor barrier film wooden frame, to which the desired finishing material will be attached.

Video on thermal insulation using polyurethane foam

Some useful tips

When insulating a roof from the inside, not everything can go as smoothly as it seems at first. In addition, any rafter system has its own characteristics.

We list a number of rules that may be useful when performing roof insulation work:

1. Particular attention to waterproofing and vapor barrier must be paid when working with mineral insulation. They are most susceptible to the accumulation of moisture inside, causing destructive effects.
2. Sometimes, for a light roof, the roof truss system is constructed from timber of a small cross-section. In this case, you will have to use a combined method of thermal insulation, placing the material not only between the beams, but also under them
3. When the pitch of the rafter system is too large, the insulation is additionally fixed with wire, which is pulled between the screws screwed into the rafters
4. To ensure that the insulation is not tightly located between the rafters, its width must be greater than the similar characteristic of the openings
5. Shouldn't do too much large quantity layers of insulation. For example, for thermal insulation with a thickness of 20 cm, two layers of 10 cm each would be better than four layers of 5 cm each.
6. The insulation can be placed close to the super diffusion membrane. In all other cases it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap
7. It is necessary to monitor ventilation gaps, which should not be blocked by thermal insulation material

In custody

Absolutely everyone can make high-quality insulation of the roof from the inside, which will serve for decades, reliably retaining heat and keeping out the cold. However, for those who do not want to waste their time and energy, professionals offer their services. The cost of work can vary between 5-25 USD. e. per square.

Let's look at how to insulate a roof wooden house in the case of the popular pitched roof type.

Load

During operation, the following negative factors affect the roof:

• sudden changes in temperature;
• precipitation;
• physical stress from the wind.

Correctly carry out thermal insulation after shrinkage of the log house - usually this period takes about six months, as a result of which defects in the building may appear: cracks, distortions, which must be eliminated.

Proper insulation of the roof of a wooden house is based on the basic principle - you cannot save money, because only a structure made of high-quality materials can cope well with the same wind.

Requirements

Basic requirements for heat-saving materials:

• ease of installation;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• possibility of insulation of various roofing systems;
• long service life;
• fire resistance;
• acceptable price.

Specially developed materials such as glass wool and mineral wool. In retail and wholesale networks, they can be purchased in rolls, in mats, which, if necessary, can be easily adjusted correctly to the dimensions of the gap between the rafters.

The material can be cut and cut. It is suitable for long period use: does not absorb moisture, has a sufficient level of sound insulation, and - unlike polystyrene foam - withstands heat well in summer.

Principle of operation

The principle of insulation is based on the use of attic spaces: if the owner does not build an attic, then there is no need to carry out full insulation of the entire system - it is enough to properly insulate the floors (then air from the lower floors, and cold will not seep in from the attic). In the case of residential attic rooms You can’t do without insulating materials. The total number of certain products is directly related to the selected scheme.

Preparation

First, you need to study Current state system by inspecting all component structures, paying attention to rafter elements. It is imperative to eliminate all damage, fungus, rot, damp parts, and if significant damage is detected, the rafters generally need to be replaced or repaired.

A comprehensive treatment of the entire wooden surface with antiseptic substances will be required. If there are any communications located in the roof area, then you need to check them too: many people forget to do this, mainly working with the rafters, as a result of which water later appears in the insulation system.

Complex insulation

This insulation method for a finished building is considered in the context of no need to dismantle the coating. Creating an insulation system is very similar to arranging a ventilation façade. This simple option does not require large financial expenditures.

So, with special attention You need to consider layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. The first layer is waterproofing. Sometimes it is present because it was originally part of the roof structure. If it is not there, then you need to lay a hydrobarrier type film between the rafters and the roof: it perfectly retains moisture and allows steam to pass through. The film completely covers the rafter components, strengthening it with a construction stapler.

After waterproofing it is laid directly insulation material. As a material, you should pay attention to mineral wool, which can be in the form of rolls and slabs with minimum thickness 10 cm. It is important that the layer does not exceed the thickness of the rafters.

The laying of material between the rafters should be tight, without gaps. Additional fastening to the insulation will be provided by a stretched nylon cord or wooden slats, which are nailed perpendicular to the rafters.

Vapor barrier

Following the insulation comes vapor insulation: it is worth using as a material vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the heat-protective layer, and is also reinforced along the rafters. If an attic is to be built from the attic, then it would be appropriate to take care of the decorative finishing of the insulated roof.

The finishing layer is sewn on top: these can be particle boards, gypsum cardboard. You can glue wallpaper on top. You can finish with plasterboard or chipboards. Arranging the roof mansard type, thermal insulation must be combined with a special reflective film on an aluminum base. The side of the film coated with a special reflective compound is attached to the outside.

The main purpose of the film is to reflect ultraviolet rays in the summer months - this will reduce the heating of the air in the attic. A waterproofing film to protect the insulation from fumes present in heated air, on the contrary, is placed on the inside.

Exterior materials

External insulation of the roof of a wooden house no longer requires cotton wool - it is too soft - but more durable material. Insulating foam plastic is suitable for this purpose: it has very good heat-saving characteristics, it is durable and fireproof.

Laying stages

The technology does not require much effort and consists of a sequence of the following actions:

• creating a barrier from a film with vapor-proof properties;
• arrangement of an insulating layer using foam plastic boards;
• flooring of roofing material or a synthetic analogue for protection against water (strengthened with mastic resin glue);
• backfilling of materials.

This classic version, which is used everywhere.

Polyurethane coating

However, it is not the only one: modern owners also use polyurethane foam as a material, which is much more effective than polystyrene foam.

You should not carry out insulation with your own hands: it is better to contact specialists who use the material in cylinders. The procedure is carried out as follows:

• the roof is being prepared - inspection, interviewing home owners and developing a work plan;
• polyurethane foam is applied.

The final layer receives all the qualities necessary for complete insulation and lasts about 25-30 years. This technology saves a lot of time.

Final stage

Insulation of the roof of a wooden house ends with insulation of the floor and ceiling of the attic, which will not allow warm air, striving upward, will encounter streams of cold air descending from the uninsulated ceiling. The thermal insulation layer is arranged with waterproofing elements.

First, all the cracks between the beams and beams are filled with tow, felt, or foam insulation is used. Next, the space between the beams is filled with mineral wool, expanded clay and slag are laid on top. If attic space are used for living quarters, then properly insulate the wooden floor, leaving a small gap between the boards and the insulation, which also helps reduce the formation of condensation.

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Self-insulation different roofs of the house thermal insulation materials

You can line up capital house with thick walls and a strong foundation, but if you leave the roof uninsulated or poorly insulated, all the efforts and investments will be in vain. At the same time, a lightweight structure with well-equipped insulation will become a cozy home and will save a lot of money on heating. In this material I will tell you how to insulate the roof in a private house with your own hands, what material to choose, and what you should pay attention to.

Almost any owner knows that the roofs themselves can be gable, single-pitch and flat; I will try to pay attention to the principles of insulation of each type. At the same time, pitched structures are usually used for the private sector.

Of these, the most responsible is considered to be the insulation of the roof of a wooden house, so further the main part of the story will be focused specifically on these houses, since all other types of structures, in fact, are derived from the roof in wooden house and the design changes there are minor.

Choosing roof insulation

When building or overhauling a house, one of the first thoughts that arises in every normal owner is how to insulate the house (in our case, the roof) and which of the materials offered on the market is more suitable in a particular case.

Let's sort everything out and find out the main pros and cons of existing roofing insulation:

1. The first thing that the roofing insulation market offers us is cotton mats and cotton slabs. They can be made from mineral or glass fiber;
   • Glass wool is considered the patriarch here. The characteristics of glass wool are very mediocre; the advantages include low thermal conductivity and affordable cost. But the density of such mats is not high, which means you will have to buy more material.
     It cakes quickly and is very sensitive to moisture; when it gets wet, you just need to change it. But the most unpleasant thing about glass wool is the installation procedure; such fiber can dig into the skin with hundreds of small glass needles. If you don't wrap yourself in tight overalls, goggles and gloves, you'll be itching for a long time;

• WITH various types mineral wool is much more pleasant to work with. In addition to soft mats, the material is available in the form of medium and high density slabs. The price of mineral insulation is slightly higher, but you do not need to protect your skin and eyes as much during installation.
  Of course, any cotton wool is afraid of humidity, this is its Achilles' heel, but dense mineral slabs with favorable conditions can be dried and used further. In addition, it should be taken into account that fine-fiber cotton insulation, in any form, is one of the few absolutely non-flammable materials.

1. The next contenders for high-quality roofing insulation are the long-known polystyrene foam and its newfangled brother extruded polystyrene foam:
   • Extruded polystyrene foam is distinguished by its fantastic, compared to other insulation materials, mechanical strength, lightness and absolute waterproofness. This coating actually does not require waterproofing.
     On the one hand, when insulating flat concrete floors or an attic with forced ventilation, this is great. But on the other hand, such vapor-tight structures require additional under-roof ventilation, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the sheets;

• With polystyrene foam everything is a little simpler - its price is half as much. If you look at laboratory data, the level of thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam is approximately the same, but I can add from myself that in order to achieve the same results, you need to take polystyrene foam slabs one third thicker than the slabs of its extruded counterpart. Plus, foam plastic, although not so durable, has moderate vapor permeability, which is better for roofing work.

1. Quite often, advanced modern owners of old houses, in order not to completely dismantle the roof, prefer to insulate the roof from the inside of a wooden house using foam materials. On this moment The market offers 3 main foam options:
   • The so-called penoizol is essentially a liquid version of foam boards. If we put aside the advertising tinsel, I don’t see much big difference, except that the liquid version is significantly more expensive and is applied without gaps;

• Polyurethane foam is a new and very high-quality foam insulation. It has quite high strength and is not afraid of moisture. Plus, manufacturers claim that such foam, under normal use, can last up to 70 years. At least they provide a 50-year guarantee;

• Since we are deciding which is the best insulation for the roof of a wooden house, it would not be amiss to remember the now popular ecowool. This is a foam fiber insulation made from cellulose and is essentially a product of processing waste paper, that is, recyclable materials. Ecowool is certainly not as expensive as polyurethane foam, but it also costs a decent amount. It is suitable for people who have decided to build a house from environmentally friendly materials at all costs. pure materials.

Each of the above foam materials provides the densest and most uniform application layer. There will be no gaps, cracks or cold bridges. But the problem is that the instructions there require the participation of expensive special equipment; without it, you won’t be able to do anything with your own hands.

1. In our list you cannot miss bulk, environmentally friendly clean insulation materials. I saw a lot of different proposals online, from using fallen leaves or hay to insulating with fir cones. But seriously, at the moment there are only 2 really working options:
   • Expanded clay insulation is considered the most common in this niche. Expanded clay is a special type of clay that is foamed and fired in special ovens. The material is strong, durable and non-flammable. The only flaw is hygroscopicity. Porous granules can easily absorb moisture, although they also release it easily;

• In addition to expanded clay, ordinary sawdust is still widely used as insulation to this day. Just don't try to fall asleep fresh sawdust V pure form. First, they must rest for a year, and then in order to be used in bulk, they must be mixed with fluff (loose slaked lime) in a ratio of 8:2 (sawdust/lime). Or make slabs from sawdust, the calculation there will be 9:1:1 (sawdust/lime/cement), here, of course, you still have to add a little water and, after mixing, pour the mixture into suitable molds until it dries completely.

Roof insulation options

IN in this case we don’t need to compare whether a wooden, for example, brick private house is better. After all, insulating the roof of a private house, whether it is single or gable, is absolutely no different. The rafters in both cases are wooden and the structures are assembled in the same way.

Gable roof insulation technology

Whatever structure you equip, you need to start from the fact that the movement of steam in the house goes in the direction from internal space outside. And if at any stage you decide to install a waterproof barrier, moisture will certainly accumulate in this place, so you need to immediately think about how to remove it from there.

First, let's look at the arrangement technology roofing pie in its pure form, that is, since the roof is insulated during construction. Let's assume that we have a gable or broken floor for an attic with a section of load-bearing rafters of 50x150 mm, which are installed in increments of about 50 - 70 cm.

Under such conditions, slabs are most often used. vapor permeable insulation. In the economical version, these will be soft cotton wool mats, but it is much easier to work with dense slabs of basalt wool or, at worst, you can take polystyrene foam.

From experience I can say that until the finishing layer of the roof is installed and the rafters are “bare”, it will be more convenient to lay the pie from the bottom up. First, a vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the rafters from below. The easiest way is to “shoot” it with a stapler; you can fasten it without fanaticism, as long as it holds, since a counter-rail will also be nailed to the rafters below for the finishing internal lining.

We will make the counter-lattice from below from wooden block 30x40 mm. You can fix it on the rafters with self-tapping screws or nails, whatever you like. Now we have the base and we can start laying the insulation.

As you remember, our rafter depth is 150 mm. Slab insulation, be it foam or basalt wool You can choose this size. But there is a small subtlety here: in order to avoid cold bridges between the slabs, I advise you to buy slabs half as thick, in this case 75 mm, and lay them in 2 layers with a shift between the joints of the two layers.

Foam plastic slabs are cut precisely according to the distance between the logs so that they fit tightly and hold on their own. Cotton slabs are elastic and need to be selected or cut a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the joists, but do not overdo it with the overlap, as otherwise the slab may bend.

When the main layer of insulation is laid, a windproof membrane is attached on top of it. The instructions here are the same as in the case of fixing the vapor-permeable membrane from below. That is, we cover everything with a canvas, lightly fix this canvas with a stapler and on top of the joists we additionally stuff a counter-batten, the thickness and width of which should be at least 30 mm, usually 30x40 or 40x40 mm is taken.

Our upper counter rail provides a ventilation gap. Theoretically, if you plan to cover the roof with a newfangled soft tiles or other similar material, then OSB sheets can be attached directly to this sheathing with galvanized self-tapping screws and the coating can be covered.

The air will move along the rafters from bottom to top. By the way, with this installation, the counter battens of the two slopes should not be joined at the ridge. Left there free space for horizontal.

But I always advise making a universal, double roofing counter-lattice. This design is a little more expensive, but it is much more effective. The point is that after we have stuffed the counter batten onto the joists, another layer of counter batten made of boards at least 20 mm thick is stuffed perpendicular to it, in increments of about 20 - 30 cm.

It’s not worth buying a planed board or calibrated timber, it’s an extra expense, here it’s quite enough unedged boards. I have come across cases where a slab was used for such a counter-lattice. It is on such a horizontal sheathing that the sheet metal is supposed to be attached roofing material, for example, slate.

This double universal sheathing provides the best under-roof ventilation. The air here moves both from bottom to top and horizontally. Accordingly, well-ventilated wood will last much longer.

Naturally, all wood on the roof must be treated with antiseptics several times. Previously, mining was used for this machine oil, it certainly protects from bugs and moisture.
But a wooden roof is a place with an increased fire hazard. Therefore, I recommend taking modern impregnations that contain fire retardants. Saving on fire protection can backfire.

There is one important point here. I have often come across advice on the Internet that ordinary technical polyethylene can be used as steam and wind protection. Supposedly it turns out cheaper, but the effect is the same. Of course, they are right about the reduction in price, but otherwise everything is not so “elegant”.

Everyone knows that polyethylene is a 100% waterproofing agent, and if you replace the bottom layer of vapor barrier under the rafters in a residential attic with it, the room will turn out stuffy, because the vapor has nowhere to go.

At the same time, it is also not advisable to stuff polyethylene instead of wind protection over the rafters; the effect will be even worse, moisture will condense from the bottom of the film and immediately be absorbed into the wood of the rafters and cotton mats.

So for residential premises, where the roof is also the ceiling, I do not recommend using polyethylene at all. Although where the attic is a technical room or the attic has good forced ventilation, you can safely stuff polyethylene from the bottom.

To make it easier for you to understand, steam and wind protection is a synthetic fabric or, as it is also called, a membrane, in which steam or moisture can penetrate only in one direction. On the reverse side, such a membrane acts as waterproofing. Usually the sides of the canvas are different in color or have special marks on them.

Characteristics of one of the most popular types of windproof membrane:

Characteristic	Windproof membrane class "Izospan"
	"A"	"A" with fire retardants	"AM"	"AS"
Longitudinal 190 Transverse 139	Longitudinal 177 Transverse 129	Longitudinal 125 Transverse 95	Longitudinal 165 Transverse 120
Vapor permeability	3500g/m²/day	3500g/m²/day	1550g/m²/day	1000g/m²/day
UV resistance	3 to 4 months
Temperature range	From -60ºС, to +80ºС
Roll width	1.4 – 1.6m	1.6m	1.6m	1.6m

Regarding the interior lining mansard roof, then in wooden structures most often lining or ten-millimeter sheets of plywood of the “FK” brand are used. Some people prefer to cover their living attic space with plasterboard. But, in my opinion, this only makes sense if the walls of the house are made of some kind of block material and are plastered.

All these types of cladding are simply simply fixed onto the counter-batten we previously filled. Please note that it is not recommended to fix the internal finishing cladding directly to the load-bearing roof rafters, since in this case there will be no ventilation gap between finishing cladding and insulation, which can negatively affect the insulation itself and wooden rafters.

Roof insulation from the inside

Knowing the general structure of the roofing pie, it is not difficult to insulate a sloping pitched roof from the inside. If the upper part of the roof, that is, slate or some other covering, is made with high quality, and you are not going to change it, then the structure can be insulated from the inside.

But there is a small nuance here: it only makes sense to insulate the sloping roof structure itself if you are going to make the attic space residential. To equip a technical room, it will be much cheaper to insulate the ceiling and communications that run through the attic, if of course there are any.

The best way to insulate the roof from the inside is, of course, up to you, but the easiest way is to hire specialists and blow polyurethane foam, penoizol or ecowool between the rafters. Moreover, if an OSB sheet or plywood is sewn directly on top of the rafters, then you can immediately spray foam from below the roof. But in the case when the rafters are covered with sheathing, for example, under slate, the back wall, along the upper edge of the rafters, will have to be equipped with your own hands.

I usually cover the entire inner surface of the roof with a windproof membrane, and after blowing in the foam, I attach the bottom sheathing to the joists and stuff the inner lining. Only the wind protection in this case should be secured not only with a stapler, but also with additional wooden planks, since, in fact, all the foam will hang on it. The lower membrane is not needed in this case.

Some craftsmen prefer to sew sectors between the rafters instead of a windproof membrane OSB sheets. Next, the foam is blown in exactly the same way, the bottom sheathing is installed and the finishing coating is installed. In this case, membranes on top and bottom are not used, because the foam provides completely sealed, high-quality insulation.

Polyurethane foam and penoizol are applied open method, that is, directly onto the OSB or windbreak. If your rafters on both sides (top and bottom) are already covered with some kind of sheets, there is no need to rip them off. Here it is enough to make a technological window with a diameter of about 80 mm and fill these cavities with ecowool.

Bottom roof insulation with foam is certainly a good thing, this material will serve long years. But initially you will have to pay a hefty sum for such pleasure. If the budget does not allow the use of foam, only cotton wool or polystyrene remains.

In this case, we proceed according to the classical scheme. First, wrapping the rafters, we fill the windproof membrane from below.

The lower vapor barrier membrane must be tightened only if you decide to insulate the roof with cotton wool materials. It is enough to insert the foam between the rafters and, so that it does not begin to fall out over time, stretch a fishing line, wire or some kind of synthetic thread along the lower edge of the rafters.

Insulation of the attic floor

As I already mentioned, in the case where the attic is not planned to be made residential, you can only stop at insulating the ceiling. Honestly, this is the simplest and affordable option for independent arrangement.

In a wooden house, where floor beams serve as floor joists, you will initially need to hem the ceiling. Typically, thick plywood (from 10 mm) is used for this, and it needs to be sewn in two layers so that dust from the insulation does not spill between the joints of the sheets.

The most affordable insulation in this case is expanded clay. Granules of medium diameter (1 - 2 cm), in a 1:1 ratio, are mixed with expanded clay sand, and this entire mass is poured between the logs.

In principle, this is enough for insulation, but if you plan to use it as Utility room, then in order to move freely on it, I recommend sewing a support covering on top. This can be a layer of thick plywood (from 16 mm) or batten thickness from 30 mm. You won’t place furniture there, but this thickness is enough to support your weight.

In addition to expanded clay, for insulation attic floor You can use any vapor-permeable type of insulation. Sawdust mixed with slaked lime or ecowool are suitable for bulk environmentally friendly materials.

Moreover, in this case you can fill the ecowool with your own hands; you do not need special equipment. The material just needs to be poured out of the bag and fluffed using a mixing attachment on an electric drill, or with a construction mixer.

If you are more impressed by hard slab materials or foam, then you need to act in exactly the same way as we insulated the sloping roof. That is, mats are inserted between the lags or foam is blown in, and a support covering is sewn on top.

When a fireplace or wood-burning stove is installed in the house, the pipe will naturally exit through the ceiling. Here you will have to take care of heat-resistant thermal insulation around this pipe with a thickness of 300 mm. In fact, there are not many options, high temperature chimney can only withstand expanded clay or mineral wool.

The fact is that any synthetic insulation begins to decompose at a maximum temperature of 90ºC. And if we talk about sawdust or ecowool, then, as you understand, they can simply dry out and ignite from any small spark.

Reinforced concrete floor slabs in block house insulation is even easier. The level of vapor permeability of concrete is so meager that it can simply be ignored. From a technological point of view, it is easiest to cover such slabs with a “blanket” of extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex).

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam have joining grooves around the perimeter, so they are connected tightly, with virtually no gaps. In this case, a maximum thickness of 50 mm is sufficient; more is needed only for northern regions our great homeland.

The strength of extruded polystyrene foam is enough for you to walk on it freely, so no additional flooring is needed.

By the way, if a reinforced concrete floor slab is the floor in a residential attic, it should also be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, only laminate should be laid as a finishing floor covering. It is mounted using floating technology, so it will not be difficult. For linoleum, you will have to lay plywood on top of the penoplex.

If, for some reason, you do not want to insulate a reinforced concrete slab with extruded polystyrene foam, then you will have to install a block with a thickness of 50 mm or more on it; it will serve as floor joists. I talked about the insulation scheme between the joists above.

In my opinion, insulate reinforced concrete slabs ceilings in the attic or in a residential attic are best done with extruded polystyrene foam. The fact is that even for the cheapest foam or expanded clay insulation, in addition to the material itself, you will need to spend money on timber under wooden joists and plywood for the finishing coating, and all in all it won’t be any cheaper than paying for Penoplex once.

A few words about insulating a flat reinforced concrete roof

Insulation of structures with flat concrete floor, in my opinion, much simpler than a private house with wooden roof. This option is often in demand among residents of the outermost floors in urban areas. multi-storey buildings. Although now there are more and more private low-rise houses with open terraces on the upper floors.

Roof insulation multi-storey building can be done in two ways. A more affordable option involves the use of expanded clay. To begin with, of course, you will need to tear off the old bitumen waterproofing that has become unusable and, if possible, clean the reinforced concrete slab.

Next, metal or composite beacons are installed over the entire floor area. Since the roofing slabs on such houses still have a slight slope, the beacons must be installed with the same slope, that is, strictly parallel to the slabs.

The gap between the top edge of the lighthouse and the slab is made at least 140 mm. The beacons themselves are easier to install on plaster cakes, although it is better to install them on self-tapping screws, in increments of about a meter. Only for the self-tapping screws you will have to drill a series of blind holes in the concrete with a hammer drill and insert plastic dowels into them. The same distance is made between lighthouses.

The first layer about 100 mm thick is filled with expanded clay. I recommend laying a layer of polyethylene on top of the expanded clay; it will prevent the top layer of expanded clay from becoming saturated with moisture from the solution. Of course, it won’t be possible to cover it with a continuous cloth; the beacons will interfere, so you’ll have to cover it with overlapping pieces.

Now we need to fill the reinforced screed. I usually use chain-link mesh as reinforcement. After laying the mesh, it is poured cement-sand mortar(proportion 1:3) and the rule is aligned with the beacons.

After a couple of weeks, you can install roll waterproofing. Most often, liquid bitumen is poured and roofing material is fused onto it.

Insulating a concrete roof using extruded polystyrene foam is much easier, faster and often more effective. Here the old layer of waterproofing is simply torn off, insulation slabs are laid on the concrete, and a reinforced screed 30 - 40 mm thick is poured on top. When the screed has completely hardened, you can fuse a new layer of rolled waterproofing.

The open terraces of private houses have the least amount of work. Here, 50-70 mm extruded polystyrene foam is immediately mounted on the concrete, on which it is laid floor tiles for external surfaces.

In this case, the tiles sit not on a cement-sand mortar, but on special glue. Upper layer Penoplex is suitable for this. If it is necessary to provide a slight slope, then sand filling is made under the penoplex.

Conclusion

I tried to give you comprehensive information on how to insulate roofs with your own hands. The photo and video in this article contains additional material. If you still have questions, write them in the comments, let’s chat.

September 4, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

The cost of maintaining the house depends on how the roof is insulated. In particular, in winter, an uninsulated roof makes itself felt especially strongly: everyone knows that warm air always rises; in contact with the cold roofing, it cools down, or through the existing gaps it leaves the room, which is why the heat loss of a wooden house increases significantly. On the other hand, in the summer, the air in the room is heated by the hot sun roof. As a result, the house begins to look like a huge greenhouse, and you, if you have air conditioning, will experience a significant increase in electricity costs.

In any case, an uninsulated roof, as well as an uninsulated floor, prevents you from enjoying comfortable accommodation in a wooden house for the whole family.

What to do with an uninsulated roof?

Of course, insulate! And it will be better if you do this at the construction stage of your home. If you have decided to insulate the roof in your country house, we suggest you adopt an excellent method of roof insulation, or order this work to be performed by the Keil Stroy company. We will do everything quickly and, most importantly, efficiently!

How to insulate a roof in a wooden house?

We will describe the method of roof insulation that we use in frame houses and houses made of profiled timber. It is similar to insulating floors in a wooden house, with the difference that the “sandwich” of roof insulation, when viewed from the room, will be upside down and will include ceiling design/vapor barrier/thermal insulation/wind-hydroprotection.

Roof insulation technology

Step one. Wind and hydro protection.

In the houses built by our company, wind-hydroprotection is installed at the stage of installation of the rafter system, so we proceed directly to the second step. If your house does not have it, then its installation is similar to the installation of wind protection when insulating floors.

Step two. Thermal insulation.

Between the boards of the rafter system, 3 layers of mineral wool are laid, which has very low thermal conductivity. We place the insulation sheets very tightly and overlap, offset by 1/3. This is done in order to cold air did not pass between the sheets.

Step three. Installation of the direction change bar.

The bars are attached to rafter system across the rafters, in increments equal to the width of the insulation. This is necessary to prevent the appearance of even the smallest cold bridges.

Step four. Reversing the insulation.

We place the insulation, rotated 90 degrees, between the direction change bars.

Step five. Vapor barrier.

To protect the insulation from saturation with water vapor from inside the room, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier. "Keil Stroy" uses special materials during work - a vapor barrier membrane (IZOSPAN V or a similar material). The vapor barrier is laid with an overlap of 150-200 mm with a slight overlap on the walls and is attached to bars that change direction. If any gaps or joints appear, they must be sealed with a special connecting tape or metallized tape.

Step six. Ventilation.

In order for the space between the ceiling and the insulation to be ventilated, it is necessary to create a ventilation gap. To do this, you need to take a 25 mm thick board and attach it to the direction change bars. After this, you can begin finishing the ceiling with finishing materials.

Roof insulation is complete!

Notes:

1. Remember that the final thickness of thermal insulation depends on the type of insulation, climatic conditions region and is calculated for each house individually.
2. This article describes a method for insulating a roof in the case of a wooden house with an attic or residential attic. If you have a house with uninhabited attic, you need to insulate the floor between the living space and the attic in this way.

You might be interested.

How to insulate the floor in your country house? Study our article “Insulation of floors in a wooden house”!

keilstroy.ru

Staged device

Preparatory work
Wooden houses have a peculiarity: they cannot be insulated immediately after construction. It is necessary to wait for the frame to shrink. As a rule, this takes about half a goal. This time can be allocated to complete roofing and finishing work.

With proper thermal insulation, the attic can become an additional room.

How to insulate the roof of a private house: basic requirements for thermal insulation

Roof of a house performing protective functions, operated in difficult conditions air humidity and regular temperature fluctuations. Hence good insulation taking into account the above factors should:

• have a simple fastening,
• have high thermal insulation properties,
• be universal (suitable for any roofing system),
• have a long service life,
• have high fire resistance and fire resistance,
• be affordable.

Thus, for thermal insulation of the roof, special materials are used that have low thermal conductivity and sufficient moisture resistance.


Roof thermal insulation technology allows the use various insulation materials. Among the most optimal from the point of view insulation characteristics, fire safety and versatility of use, glass and mineral wool can be distinguished. Moreover, they are affordable. They are produced in rolls or mats, so they can be easily cut into the right size, according to the distance between the rafters. Moreover, they are moisture resistant, can withstand high temperatures and provide sound insulation.

It is also possible to insulate the roof with Izoverom. It is practical, lightweight and inexpensive. Its high resistance to moisture prevents the material from dissolving or deforming in water. This species has very low thermal conductivity. Due to its low weight, installation does not require any special effort.

Another heat insulator that is used for insulation is liquid insulation. It allows you to do everything thermal insulation work quickly, accurately, efficiently. In addition to thermal insulation qualities, these materials also have waterproofing properties.

stylekrov.ru

• Preparatory work
• We begin insulation
• Insulation of pitched roofs
• The result of the work

Preparatory work

You cannot insulate the roof immediately after construction is completed; you need to give the house a little time to shrink. All finishing work must be certified by this period, as well as roofing. This usually takes no more than six months, this period Over time, various cracks and other defects may appear that need to be eliminated. There are several most common options for carrying out work:

Insulation of the attic floor.

Insulation of the ceiling of the house.

If there is an attic, the work is carried out comprehensively.

Materials used for roof insulation in a wooden house

With the right approach, you can turn the attic space into additional housing, even if it was not originally planned as such. The main thing is to choose the right approach and make good insulation.

Thermal insulation material must meet the following requirements:

Durability;

Versatility - this will allow it to be used for various roofing systems;

Possess thermal insulation qualities;

Easy to install;

Be fire resistant;

Have a reasonable price.

The best material for these parameters is a material specially designed for these purposes - mineral wool. It gains its qualities thanks to the many positive qualities of fiberglass. In retail and wholesale networks you can find both rolls and mats. Preference should be given to mats that are easy to transport and easy to stack. They are well cut and easily adjusted to the space between the rafters. The material is suitable for a long service life and has excellent sound insulation properties.

The disadvantage of roof insulation with mineral wool is its poor resistance to water. If the roof begins to leak and the material comes into contact with moisture, it will lose most of its properties, which will require replacement.

Recently, you can find such material as extruded polystyrene. Its installation will allow you to kill two birds with one stone. Firstly, by laying only 15 centimeters of insulation, we ensure the norm. Secondly, the material itself is excellent waterproofing. And even if the roof starts to leak, the moisture will simply roll down it without getting inside. The disadvantage of polystyrene is its cost, which is expensive.

The most unprofitable option would be polystyrene foam. He doesn't hold up well elevated temperatures and does not meet many requirements.

We begin insulation

How to insulate the roof of a wooden house if it is covered with metal tiles? Surely you know about the hum that occurs when water falls during rain. In order to avoid this, it is recommended to use a special soundproofing film; it will eliminate noise and provide comfort. Its role can be foamed polyethylene, penofol or ordinary waterproofing. This event will also be useful in that it will help get rid of condensation. Which can appear when there is a temperature change and fall out in the form of dew.

In houses that are already in use, the roof will be insulated from the inside the best option for residents. Before starting insulation, you should clearly determine whether the attic will be a living area or not. If so, then work should be carried out to insulate the entire roof, which will significantly increase the consumption of material as a whole. All wood must be treated with an antiseptic, and broken parts must be replaced or repaired.

When insulating the attic floor with a material such as mineral wool, you should remember that it crumbles and you are unlikely to want to breathe in its particles, which through the cracks in the ceiling will fall directly into the room when laying the material on the base.
I can prevent this process by using any suitable material, for example, glassine - light paper impregnated with bitumen fractions. We lay it on the base and only after that, lay a layer of insulation. For reliability, you can secure it with a stapler or other fastening device. It will prevent particles of material from getting into the cracks between the rough coating. It doesn’t fit to lay a layer on top waterproofing material, which will not allow the material to fail if exposed to moisture. After which it is all sewn up with a floorboard.

Insulation of pitched roofs

The first step will be laying the waterproofing layer. If the house is residential, then perhaps it is already between the rafters and roofing elements. If not, you will have to allocate time to set it up. For such purposes, a waterproofing film that can retain steam is perfect. All structures, without exception, are wrapped in it and secured with a stapler for reliability. Following this, we apply insulating material on top. Usually mineral wool plays its role. The total thickness of the roof insulation should not be less than 10 centimeters and should also not exceed the thickness of the rafters. The material should fit snugly on the sides and no gaps should be left. For greater reliability, you can secure it with a nylon cord or slats.

Next, we attach a layer of vapor barrier and also attach it to the rafters. This concludes the insulation work, but it would not be superfluous to improve the attic by finishing it with plasterboard or other material.

The technology for insulating an attic roof is in many ways similar to insulation ordinary roof. The only difference is that the walls are pulled close to the roof; in some variations they are one whole. That is why the room quickly cools in winter and heats up in summer. The scheme itself is a complex pie:

• Waterproofing

  Ventilation gap

  Thermal insulation

  Vapor barrier

The result of the work

After the work has been completed, we receive an insulated roof of the house, which will not allow warm air to escape outside. As is known hot air rises upward, which means that it is the insulation of the roof that will allow achieving best results for its preservation. Do not forget that if you choose mineral wool or other material that is not resistant to moisture, you should take good care of the waterproofing and vapor barrier layer. All cracks and holes between the beams must be filled with tow or other heat-insulating material. It is possible to use a regular polyurethane foam. As insulation for the roof of a house, you should choose only high-quality material that meets the requirements.

When insulating the attic floor, you should leave a small gap between the material and the board. This will reduce the formation of condensation and extend the service life of the mineral wool.

It is not advisable to produce roofing during cloudy work, the likelihood of getting the material wet increases, which will cause it to fail.

Video story about insulating the roof of a wooden house:

karkasnik.su

Choosing roof insulation

When building or overhauling a house, one of the first thoughts that arises in every normal owner is how to insulate the house (in our case, the roof) and which of the materials offered on the market is more suitable in a particular case.

Let's sort everything out and find out the main pros and cons of existing roofing insulation:

1. The first thing that the roofing insulation market offers us is cotton mats and cotton slabs. They can be made from mineral or glass fiber;
   • Glass wool is considered the patriarch here. The characteristics of glass wool are very mediocre; the advantages include low thermal conductivity and affordable cost. But the density of such mats is not high, which means you will have to buy more material.
     It cakes quickly and is very sensitive to moisture; when it gets wet, you just need to change it. But the most unpleasant thing about glass wool is the installation procedure; such fiber can dig into the skin with hundreds of small glass needles. If you don't wrap yourself in tight overalls, goggles and gloves, you'll be itching for a long time;

• It is much more pleasant to work with various types of mineral wool. In addition to soft mats, the material is available in the form of medium and high density slabs. The price of mineral insulation is slightly higher, but you do not need to protect your skin and eyes as much during installation.
  Of course, any cotton wool is afraid of moisture, this is its Achilles heel, but dense mineral slabs under favorable conditions can be dried and used further. In addition, it should be taken into account that fine-fiber cotton insulation, in any form, is one of the few absolutely non-flammable materials.

1. The next contenders for high-quality roofing insulation are the long-known polystyrene foam and its newfangled brother extruded polystyrene foam:
   • Extruded polystyrene foam is distinguished by its fantastic, compared to other insulation materials, mechanical strength, lightness and absolute waterproofness. This coating actually does not require waterproofing.
     On the one hand, when insulating flat concrete floors or an attic with forced ventilation, this is great. But on the other hand, such vapor-tight structures require additional under-roof ventilation, otherwise moisture will accumulate under the sheets;

• With polystyrene foam everything is a little simpler - its price is half as much. If you look at laboratory data, the level of thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam is approximately the same, but I can add from myself that in order to achieve the same results, you need to take polystyrene foam slabs one third thicker than the slabs of its extruded counterpart. Plus, foam plastic, although not so durable, has moderate vapor permeability, which is better for roofing work.

1. Quite often, advanced modern owners of old houses, in order not to completely dismantle the roof, prefer to insulate the roof from the inside of a wooden house using foam materials. At the moment, the market offers 3 main foam options:
   • The so-called penoizol is essentially a liquid version of foam boards. If we put aside the advertising tinsel, I don’t see much of a difference, except that the liquid version is significantly more expensive and is applied without gaps;

• Polyurethane foam is a new and very high-quality foam insulation. It has quite high strength and is not afraid of moisture. Plus, manufacturers claim that such foam, under normal use, can last up to 70 years. At least they provide a 50-year guarantee;

• Since we are deciding which is the best insulation for the roof of a wooden house, it would not be amiss to remember the now popular ecowool. This is a foam fiber insulation made from cellulose and is essentially a product of processing waste paper, that is, recyclable materials. Ecowool is certainly not as expensive as polyurethane foam, but it also costs a decent amount. It is suitable for people who have decided to build a house from environmentally friendly materials at all costs.

Each of the above foam materials provides the densest and most uniform application layer. There will be no gaps, cracks or cold bridges. But the problem is that the instructions there require the participation of expensive special equipment; without it, you won’t be able to do anything with your own hands.

1. In our list you cannot miss bulk, environmentally friendly insulation materials. I saw a lot of different proposals online, from using fallen leaves or hay to insulating with fir cones. But seriously, at the moment there are only 2 really working options:
   • Expanded clay insulation is considered the most common in this niche. Expanded clay is a special type of clay that is foamed and fired in special ovens. The material is strong, durable and non-flammable. The only flaw is hygroscopicity. Porous granules can easily absorb moisture, although they also release it easily;

• In addition to expanded clay, ordinary sawdust is still widely used as insulation to this day. Just don’t think about adding fresh sawdust in its pure form. First, they must rest for a year, and then in order to be used in bulk, they must be mixed with fluff (loose slaked lime) in a ratio of 8:2 (sawdust/lime). Or make slabs from sawdust, the calculation there will be 9:1:1 (sawdust/lime/cement), here, of course, you still have to add a little water and, after mixing, pour the mixture into suitable molds until it dries completely.

Roof insulation options

In this case, we do not need to compare what is better than a wooden, for example, brick private house. After all, insulating the roof of a private house, whether it is single or gable, is absolutely no different. The rafters in both cases are wooden and the structures are assembled in the same way.

Gable roof insulation technology

Whatever structure you equip, you need to start from the fact that the movement of steam in the house goes in the direction from the interior to the street. And if at any stage you decide to install a waterproof barrier, moisture will certainly accumulate in this place, so you need to immediately think about how to remove it from there.

First, let's look at the technology of arranging a roofing pie in its pure form, that is, since the roof is insulated during construction. Let's assume that we have a gable or broken floor for an attic with a section of load-bearing rafters of 50x150 mm, which are installed in increments of about 50 - 70 cm.

Under such conditions, slab vapor-permeable insulation is most often used. In the economical version, these will be soft cotton wool mats, but it is much easier to work with dense slabs of basalt wool or, at worst, you can take polystyrene foam.

From experience I can say that until the finishing layer of the roof is installed and the rafters are “bare”, it will be more convenient to lay the pie from the bottom up. First, a vapor-permeable membrane is attached to the rafters from below. The easiest way is to “shoot” it with a stapler; you can fasten it without fanaticism, as long as it holds, since a counter-batten will also be nailed to the rafters below for the finishing internal lining.

We will make the counter-lattice from below from a 30x40 mm wooden block. You can fix it on the rafters with self-tapping screws or nails, whatever you like. Now we have the base and we can start laying the insulation.

As you remember, our rafter depth is 150 mm. Slab insulation, be it polystyrene foam or basalt wool, can be selected to fit this size. But there is a small subtlety here: in order to avoid cold bridges between the slabs, I advise you to buy slabs half as thick, in this case 75 mm, and lay them in 2 layers with a shift between the joints of the two layers.

Foam plastic slabs are cut precisely according to the distance between the logs so that they fit tightly and hold on their own. Cotton slabs are elastic and need to be selected or cut a couple of centimeters wider than the gap between the joists, but do not overdo it with the overlap, as otherwise the slab may bend.

When the main layer of insulation is laid, a windproof membrane is attached on top of it. The instructions here are the same as in the case of fixing the vapor-permeable membrane from below. That is, we cover everything with a canvas, lightly fix this canvas with a stapler and on top of the joists we additionally stuff a counter-batten, the thickness and width of which should be at least 30 mm, usually 30x40 or 40x40 mm is taken.

Our upper counter rail provides a ventilation gap. Theoretically, if you plan to cover the roof with newfangled soft tiles or other similar material, then you can attach OSB sheets directly to this sheathing with galvanized self-tapping screws and cover the covering.

The air will move along the rafters from bottom to top. By the way, with this installation, the counter battens of the two slopes should not be joined at the ridge. There is free space left for horizontal ventilation.

But I always advise making a universal, double roofing counter-lattice. This design is a little more expensive, but it is much more effective. The point is that after we have stuffed the counter batten onto the joists, another layer of counter batten made of boards at least 20 mm thick is stuffed perpendicular to it, in increments of about 20 - 30 cm.

It’s not worth buying a planed board or calibrated timber, it’s an extra expense; an unedged board is quite enough here. I have come across cases where a slab was used for such a counter-lattice. It is on this horizontal sheathing that sheet roofing material, for example, slate, is supposed to be attached.

This double universal sheathing provides the best under-roof ventilation. The air here moves both from bottom to top and horizontally. Accordingly, well-ventilated wood will last much longer.

Naturally, all wood on the roof must be treated with antiseptics several times. Previously, machine oil was used for this; of course, it protects against bugs and moisture.
But a wooden roof is a place with an increased fire hazard. Therefore, I recommend taking modern impregnations that contain fire retardants. Saving on fire protection can backfire.

There is one important point here. I have often come across advice on the Internet that ordinary technical polyethylene can be used as steam and wind protection. Supposedly it turns out cheaper, but the effect is the same. Of course, they are right about the reduction in price, but otherwise everything is not so “elegant”.

Everyone knows that polyethylene is a 100% waterproofing agent, and if you replace the bottom layer of vapor barrier under the rafters in a residential attic with it, the room will turn out stuffy, because the vapor has nowhere to go.

At the same time, it is also not advisable to stuff polyethylene instead of wind protection over the rafters; the effect will be even worse, moisture will condense from the bottom of the film and immediately be absorbed into the wood of the rafters and cotton mats.

So for residential premises, where the roof is also the ceiling, I do not recommend using polyethylene at all. Although where the attic is a technical room or the attic has good forced ventilation, you can safely stuff polyethylene from below.

To make it easier for you to understand, steam and wind protection is a synthetic fabric or, as it is also called, a membrane, in which steam or moisture can penetrate only in one direction. On the reverse side, such a membrane acts as waterproofing. Usually the sides of the canvas are different in color or have special marks on them.

Characteristics of one of the most popular types of windproof membrane:

Characteristic	Windproof membrane class "Izospan"
	"A"	"A" with fire retardants	"AM"	"AS"
Longitudinal 190 Transverse 139	Longitudinal 177 Transverse 129	Longitudinal 125 Transverse 95	Longitudinal 165 Transverse 120
Vapor permeability	3500g/m²/day	3500g/m²/day	1550g/m²/day	1000g/m²/day
UV resistance	3 to 4 months
Temperature range	From -60ºС, to +80ºС
Roll width	1.4 – 1.6m	1.6m	1.6m	1.6m

As for the internal cladding of the attic roof, wooden structures most often use lining or ten-millimeter sheets of plywood of the FK brand. Some people prefer to cover their living attic space with plasterboard. But, in my opinion, this only makes sense if the walls of the house are made of some kind of block material and are plastered.

All these types of cladding are simply simply fixed onto the counter-batten we previously filled. Please note that fixing the internal finishing lining directly to the load-bearing roof rafters is not recommended, since in this case there will be no ventilation gap between the finishing lining and the insulation, which can negatively affect the insulation itself and the wooden rafters.

Roof insulation from the inside

Knowing the general structure of the roofing pie, it is not difficult to insulate a sloping pitched roof from the inside. If the upper part of the roof, that is, slate or some other covering, is made with high quality, and you are not going to change it, then the structure can be insulated from the inside.

But there is a small nuance here: it only makes sense to insulate the sloping roof structure itself if you are going to make the attic space residential. To equip a technical room, it will be much cheaper to insulate the ceiling and communications that run through the attic, if of course there are any.

The best way to insulate the roof from the inside is, of course, up to you, but the easiest way is to hire specialists and blow polyurethane foam, penoizol or ecowool between the rafters. Moreover, if an OSB sheet or plywood is sewn directly on top of the rafters, then you can immediately spray foam from below the roof. But in the case when the rafters are covered with sheathing, for example, under slate, the back wall, along the upper edge of the rafters, will have to be equipped with your own hands.

I usually cover the entire inner surface of the roof with a windproof membrane, and after blowing in the foam, I attach the bottom sheathing to the joists and stuff the inner lining. Only the wind protection in this case should be secured not only with a stapler, but also with additional wooden planks, since, in fact, all the foam will hang on it. The lower membrane is not needed in this case.

Some craftsmen prefer to sew up the sectors between the rafters with OSB sheets instead of a windproof membrane. Next, the foam is blown in exactly the same way, the bottom sheathing is installed and the finishing coating is installed. In this case, membranes on top and bottom are not used, because the foam provides completely sealed, high-quality insulation.

Polyurethane foam and penoizol are applied openly, that is, directly onto OSB or wind protection. If your rafters on both sides (top and bottom) are already covered with some kind of sheets, there is no need to rip them off. Here it is enough to make a technological window with a diameter of about 80 mm and fill these cavities with ecowool.

Bottom roof insulation with foam is certainly a good thing; this material will serve for many years. But initially you will have to pay a hefty sum for such pleasure. If the budget does not allow the use of foam, only cotton wool or polystyrene remains.

In this case, we proceed according to the classical scheme. First, wrapping the rafters, we fill the windproof membrane from below.

The lower vapor barrier membrane must be tightened only if you decide to insulate the roof with cotton wool materials. It is enough to insert the foam between the rafters and, so that it does not begin to fall out over time, stretch a fishing line, wire or some kind of synthetic thread along the lower edge of the rafters.

Insulation of the attic floor

As I already mentioned, in the case where the attic is not planned to be made residential, you can only stop at insulating the ceiling. Honestly, this is the simplest and most affordable option for self-arrangement.

In a wooden house, where floor beams serve as floor joists, you will initially need to hem the ceiling. Typically, thick plywood (from 10 mm) is used for this, and it needs to be sewn in two layers so that dust from the insulation does not spill between the joints of the sheets.

The most affordable insulation in this case is expanded clay. Granules of medium diameter (1 - 2 cm), in a 1:1 ratio, are mixed with expanded clay sand, and this entire mass is poured between the logs.

In principle, this is enough for insulation, but if the attic is planned to be used as a technical room, then in order to move freely around it, I recommend sewing a support covering on top. This can be a layer of thick plywood (from 16 mm) or a floorboard with a thickness of 30 mm. You won’t place furniture there, but this thickness is enough to support your weight.

In addition to expanded clay, any vapor-permeable type of insulation can be used to insulate the attic floor. Sawdust mixed with slaked lime or ecowool are suitable for bulk environmentally friendly materials.

Moreover, in this case you can fill the ecowool with your own hands; you do not need special equipment. The material just needs to be poured out of the bag and fluffed using a mixing attachment on an electric drill, or with a construction mixer.

If you are more impressed by hard slab materials or foam, then you need to act in exactly the same way as we insulated the sloping roof. That is, mats are inserted between the lags or foam is blown in, and a support covering is sewn on top.

When a fireplace or wood-burning stove is installed in the house, the pipe will naturally exit through the ceiling. Here you will have to take care of heat-resistant thermal insulation around this pipe with a thickness of 300 mm. In fact, there are not many options; only expanded clay or mineral wool can withstand the high temperature of the chimney.

The fact is that any synthetic insulation begins to decompose at a maximum temperature of 90ºC. And if we talk about sawdust or ecowool, then, as you understand, they can simply dry out and ignite from any small spark.

It is even easier to insulate reinforced concrete floor slabs in a block house. The level of vapor permeability of concrete is so meager that it can simply be ignored. From a technological point of view, it is easiest to cover such slabs with a “blanket” of extruded polystyrene foam (Penoplex).

Sheets of extruded polystyrene foam have joining grooves around the perimeter, so they are connected tightly, with virtually no gaps. In this case, a maximum thickness of 50 mm is enough; more is needed only for the northern regions of our great homeland.

The strength of extruded polystyrene foam is enough for you to walk on it freely, so no additional flooring is needed.

By the way, if a reinforced concrete floor slab is the floor in a residential attic, it should also be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam, only laminate should be laid as a finishing floor covering. It is mounted using floating technology, so it will not be difficult. For linoleum, you will have to lay plywood on top of the penoplex.

If, for some reason, you do not want to insulate a reinforced concrete slab with extruded polystyrene foam, then you will have to install a block with a thickness of 50 mm or more on it; it will serve as floor joists. I talked about the insulation scheme between the joists above.

In my opinion, it is best to insulate reinforced concrete floor slabs in an attic or residential attic with extruded polystyrene foam. The fact is that even for the cheapest foam plastic or expanded clay insulation, in addition to the material itself, you will need to spend money on timber for wooden joists and plywood for the finishing coating, and all in all it will be no cheaper than paying for Penoplex once.

A few words about insulating a flat reinforced concrete roof

Insulating structures with a flat concrete floor, in my opinion, is much easier than insulating a private house with a wooden roof. This option is often in demand among residents of the outermost floors of urban high-rise buildings. Although now there are more and more private low-rise houses with open terraces on the upper floors.

Insulation of the roof of a multi-storey building can be done in two ways. A more affordable option involves the use of expanded clay. To begin with, of course, you will need to tear off the old bitumen waterproofing that has become unusable and, if possible, clean the reinforced concrete slab.

Next, metal or composite beacons are installed over the entire floor area. Since the roofing slabs on such houses still have a slight slope, the beacons must be installed with the same slope, that is, strictly parallel to the slabs.

The gap between the top edge of the lighthouse and the slab is made at least 140 mm. The beacons themselves are easier to install on plaster cakes, although it is better to install them on self-tapping screws, in increments of about a meter. Only for the self-tapping screws you will have to drill a series of blind holes in the concrete with a hammer drill and insert plastic dowels into them. The same distance is made between lighthouses.

The first layer about 100 mm thick is filled with expanded clay. I recommend laying a layer of polyethylene on top of the expanded clay; it will prevent the top layer of expanded clay from becoming saturated with moisture from the solution. Of course, it won’t be possible to cover it with a continuous cloth; the beacons will interfere, so you’ll have to cover it with overlapping pieces.

Now we need to fill the reinforced screed. I usually use chain-link mesh as reinforcement. After laying the mesh, cement-sand mortar is poured (proportion 1:3) and is usually leveled along the beacons.

After a couple of weeks, you can install roll waterproofing. Most often, liquid bitumen is poured and roofing material is fused onto it.

Insulating a concrete roof using extruded polystyrene foam is much easier, faster and often more effective. Here the old layer of waterproofing is simply torn off, insulation slabs are laid on the concrete, and a reinforced screed 30 - 40 mm thick is poured on top. When the screed has completely hardened, you can fuse a new layer of rolled waterproofing.

The open terraces of private houses have the least amount of work. Here, 50 - 70 mm extruded polystyrene foam is immediately mounted on the concrete, on which floor tiles for external surfaces are laid.

In this case, the tiles are not set on a cement-sand mortar, but on a special glue. The top layer of penoplex is adapted for this. If it is necessary to provide a slight slope, then sand filling is made under the penoplex.

Experienced builders know that it is better to think through all technological issues related to roof construction at the stage of creating a private wooden house project. Exact plan construction work allows you to efficiently and quickly insulate the external insulation of the slope, if required. In real conditions, you often have to insulate the roof from the inside with your own hands after completing the roof installation. In this article we will talk about the internal thermal insulation of slopes, how much it costs, and how it is done.

Internal thermal insulation is the process of home insulation from the attic side using materials that have low thermal conductivity. This optimization measure temperature regime wooden private house is used only if the roofing work has already been completed, since it is impossible to cover the slopes with insulation without dismantling the roofing. Internal method installation of thermal insulation materials has the following features:

1. The minimum thickness of the insulation layer to stop heat loss through the slope is 150 mm. Therefore, insulating the roof from the inside reduces the usable area of ​​the roof space, which is considered a disadvantage when equipping residential attics of a private wooden house.
2. The insulation during internal thermal insulation of the roof is located directly under the wall lining material, so more vapors saturated with moisture penetrate into it, despite the vapor barrier layer. For this reason, the material gets wet, losing its thermal insulation properties, and then wrinkles and settles.
3. Roof insulation from the inside is considered less in a convenient way, since when installing the slab of thermal insulation material, you have to hold it above your head. The difficulty of the work significantly increases the cost of internal insulation of the roof of a private wooden house.
4. The internal thermal insulation of the slopes allows the use of only the safest materials that do not harm human health during installation and operation. Considering how much environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic insulation costs, external thermal insulation would cost 1.5-2 times less.

Note! Thermal insulation materials for insulating the roof of a private wooden house are used in combination with waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes or films. Since without protection from the penetration of moisture or steam, they quickly become damp, which increases thermal conductivity and sharply reduces the effectiveness of insulation. For heated mansard roofs, in which these processes occur more intensely, professional builders recommend using forced ventilation.

Materials

Modern construction market has hundreds of different types of insulation, cost and performance characteristics differ significantly. For thermal insulation of the roof of a private house made of wood, vapor-permeable, moisture-resistant and non-flammable materials with low thermal conductivity. Most often used the following types insulation:

• Mineral wool. A fibrous material produced in the form of rolls, mats or slabs, the composition of which is based on threads of glass, gabbro-basalt or slag. Low cost, fire resistance, efficiency and ease of installation make these insulation the most convenient for doing the work yourself. The only drawback is that small particles that get on the skin are Airways, on the mucous membranes, causing severe irritation. Therefore, installation is carried out in full equipment - with safety glasses, gloves, a respirator and a robe.

  

  

• Expanded polystyrene. Insulation based on polystyrene foam is known to most people as polystyrene foam. It is often used for internal insulation of slopes, due to its light weight, high degree of protection against vag and low thermal conductivity. Foamed polystyrene foam is called polystyrene foam, in which air occupies more than 95%. Thermal insulation materials based on polystyrene foam are easy to install, they are easy to cut and fasten, however, they almost do not allow steam to pass through, which during internal insulation causes dampness in the room. This negative effect of using polystyrene foam can be reduced by using forced ventilation system equipment.

  

  

• Polyurethane foam. Polyurethane foam is produced in the form of panels or a liquid mixture, which is foamed using a special installation that supplies carbon dioxide, and in this form is applied to the inner surface of the slope. This type of insulation is often used for roof thermal insulation, however, it has significant drawback– complete vapor tightness. This property excludes the possibility of using this material for insulation. wooden houses. In addition, due to the use of expensive installation, polyurethane foam installation is rarely done with one’s own hands.

  

  

Important! Use inside a residential building tightens the safety requirements for insulation for the health of home occupants. Ecowool is one of the tested safe materials. It consists of cellulose or flax fiber with the addition of antiseptic substances and fire retardants. Ecowool has thermal insulation and noise-reducing characteristics similar to mineral wool.

Installation methods

Installing thermal insulation material from the inside is more difficult and takes longer than from the outside when laying the roofing. However, if the roof is already ready, then homeowners have no other choice. To insulate the slope you will need insulation, vapor barrier membrane, construction stapler, sharp knife, marker, wooden slats, screwdriver and screws. There are two methods of internal thermal insulation:

Important! If the angle of the roof slopes is 25 degrees or less, problems may arise with laying insulation between the rafters, since the slabs will simply fall out of the opening under their own weight. To hold the material on the slope, it is secured with slats or fishing line stretched perpendicular to the rafters in several rows.

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