Insulation of bathhouse roofs and ceilings. How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof with your own hands. Choosing insulation for the ceiling

The warm air flow constantly strives upward, so if the ceiling in the bathhouse is not insulated enough, the steam room will suffer from the constant loss of heat escaping to the street. Every self-respecting bathhouse owner has to deal with ceiling insulation under a cool roof. At first glance, the work seems hard. But if there is a step-by-step instructions on which insulation to choose and how to lay it with your own hands, everyone can handle surface insulation.

Why is the roof cold?

A cool roof is called when the bathhouse did not include a roofing pie consisting of a couple of layers of insulation at the construction stage.

Such a roof is considered very reliable - the master builds a rafter system and lays the roofing sequentially.

An insulated roof has the following high-quality characteristics:

• creates a special microclimate inside the building;
• serves as a protective barrier against damage;
• accumulates and retains 30% of heat.

According to the technology, do-it-yourself insulation is carried out in several ways:

• work is carried out from the attic;
• closer to the steam room.

How to insulate a bathhouse ceiling with expanded clay with your own hands

Expanded clay is a natural product acquired from clayey shale by firing.

In its finished form it is granules or grains of different sizes. Experts advise using expanded clay to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cool roof, citing its characteristics:

• ease;
• safety;
• unaffected by water and temperature changes;
• when heated, it does not emit toxic components;
• odorless;
• retains heat well;
• does not collect dust;
• not subject to fire, which is extremely important for a steam room.

Step-by-step insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cool roof with expanded clay consists of the following steps:

1. Clean the ceiling from dust and dirt.
2. Place a film with vapor barrier properties on the attic surface.

   For strong fixation, secure with a construction stapler or carpenter's tape. To ensure a tighter fit, lay the film overlapping. A larger inlet must be provided for the chimney pipe and roof rafter system.

3. Pay attention to the granularity of the expanded clay fractions - for better insulation, use 4-10 mm; if you need to close the attic, a layer of 15-30 cm wide is enough. If the flooring of the attic is treated with wood planks, expanded clay is sprinkled between the joists.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool has not caught on for insulating ceilings in residential premises, but it comes in handy for a bathhouse.

Installing ecowool involves several installation methods:

1. The dry method involves laying out ecowool between the joists of the attic room and compulsorily sealing it; for this purpose, dense polyethylene is used.
2. The wet option is only possible if there is special equipment that distributes glue under pressure on cellulose fibers. As a result, a solid surface is formed, consisting of ecowool and air space. The layer thickness in the standard reaches 15-30 cm, depending on weather conditions.

Experts advise laying a larger size of ecowool, because it can become compacted over time.

The advantages of insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with ecowool have already been appreciated by the owners of steam rooms:

1. The small specific gravity allows for installation of any thickness. There is no additional overload on the attic floor, because the loose structure alternates with air gaps.
2. Long period of operation.
3. Fights mold and harmful bacteria.
4. High-quality ecowool is treated at the factory with fire retardants that are not subject to combustion and provoke extinction if a fire already exists in the steam room.

Working with natural ingredients

Despite the wide selection of modern insulation materials, almost everyone still prefers safe natural substances.

Of these, the top three in terms of thermal conductivity and efficiency are felt, dried leaves and tow.

Then, in descending order, comes moss, pine needles and mats made from straw.

The ceiling of a bathhouse with a cool roof can be treated with sawdust, narrow shavings, and reeds. The reeds are used to form decks secured with strong ropes. Reed indicates the following positive characteristics:

• insulates the bathhouse ceiling from water and heat escaping to the outside;
• is inexpensive;
• it does not harbor rodents.

When decorating the ceiling with sawdust, remember that despite the low cost, you definitely need to consider the option of treating the insulation with fire retardants - only then will it lose its highest flammability characteristics.

A step-by-step guide to laying sawdust on a bathhouse ceiling looks like this:

1. Apply watery clay to the attic surface.
2. To prevent dry clay from cracking later, sprinkle with sand.
3. A subsequent layer of carbide and slaked lime will help protect the room from rodents.
4. Sawdust is sprinkled in a layer of 15 cm or more, up to 30 cm in regions with severe winters.

An option for thermal insulation of a steam room with another insulation - stone wool, is clearly shown in the video instructions:

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse correctly - do-it-yourself insulation options

Heated air tends upward and, if there is no obstacle in its path, it goes into the atmosphere.

This barrier is the ceiling. If it is insufficiently insulated, about 2/3 of the thermal energy may escape through it.

Therefore, in order not to incur unnecessary expenses on heating the street, you need to insulate the bathhouse ceiling with your own hands. Everything should be organized in such a way that condensation does not form on the wood, and because of it, the smallest organisms that can damage the building material do not arise.

Types of baths in accordance with the roof features

Depending on the design features of the roof, log baths or baths made of timber are divided into buildings with and without an attic.

Bathhouses with an attic have a much thicker ceiling, which prevents warm air from escaping from the room.

In this case, the thermal insulation of the bathhouse ceiling
produced during the construction process. The air mass that fills the space under the roof also helps reduce losses. The roof insulation will still retain little heat.

In a building that does not have an attic, there are even fewer barriers to heat retention and they are very weak, which is why insulation is especially necessary here. But insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic or attic also needs to be done.

Features of the vapor barrier device

In any case, a vapor barrier is laid first and only then a thermal insulation.

The following are used as a vapor barrier in bathhouses without an attic:

• aluminium foil;
• thick cardboard, well impregnated with drying oil;
• wax paper.

For buildings with an attic, the same ones are used, but clay is more often used.

It is applied to the ceiling boards from the roof side in a layer equal to 2 cm (read also: “How to insulate the roof of a bathhouse with your own hands - we also use the insulation method”).

Of those produced by the industry, the following are used:

• Polyethylene film (0.4 mm with variations). It creates a greenhouse effect and therefore is not popular. When using this, leave a gap that is required for the condensation that forms to evaporate.
• A special vapor barrier polyethylene film with fibers that can hold condensation.
• Vapor barrier membrane.

The main task of a vapor barrier is to retain steam and prevent it from reaching the insulation.

Due to accumulated water, the service life of the thermal insulation is reduced, the weight of the ceiling structure increases, and the quality of insulation decreases.

Functions of insulation of bath ceilings

As the required temperature in the room increases, it becomes more difficult to construct a barrier to prevent heat loss. This problem can be solved by laying a heat-insulating ceiling in a multi-layer structure.

Thermal insulation allows you to eliminate the following types of heat leaks:

• heat loss through ceiling cracks;
• gradual movement of heat from heated objects to cold ones;
• warm air overcoming homogeneous barriers.

With proper organization of insulation, all functions assigned to it will be implemented.

If thermal insulation is not carried out correctly, problems may arise such as the formation of condensation, prolonged heating of the room and waste of more fuel.

Types of insulation in

Before you begin thermal insulation work, you need to choose how to insulate the attic of the bathhouse.

Mineral wool is a chaotically intertwined fiber; air voids are formed between them, which perform the function of retaining heat. This insulation on bathhouse ceilings is most often used. When wet, mineral wool loses its thermal insulation properties. If the roof has insufficient protection against rainwater leaks, then it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer on top of the insulation. There should be a thermal insulation gap between the layers of waterproofing and insulation.

Also, the ceiling in the bathhouse can be insulated with foamed polypropylene.

This is extremely lightweight and will not weigh down the ceiling structure. Especially for baths and saunas, it was developed with foil on one side. In addition to the main function of insulation, it reflects the heat flow with the foil side. Acting on the principle of a mirror, this insulation ensures the fastest heating of the steam room.

Expanded clay can also be used as insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse. It is used in huge baths. Expanded clay should be poured in a uniform layer equal to 30 cm. It is relatively light, but, nevertheless, the weight of the ceiling structure will increase. This insulation material, like mineral wool, absorbs water well, so a waterproofing layer is also needed.

Another option for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands is the so-called “folk” heat insulator.

In this case, insulation is done as follows:

• Soft clay is laid in a layer of 2 cm.

  It can be replaced with a consistency of chernozem and peat, wood shavings, which are filled with a cement substance, you can also mix clay with sawdust or sand.

• Sawdust or oak leaves are filled in (any other can be replaced).
• Dry soil is poured in a layer equal to 15 cm.

Also, increasing aerated concrete is used to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse. To fill it, you need to make the simplest formwork.

The thickness of the insulating layer depends on the amount of heat loss and the technical characteristics of the bath. Also, when making calculations, it is necessary to take into account climatic conditions, since insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cool roof not only prevents heat from leaving the room, but also protects against the penetration of cool air from the street.

When the outer part of the ceiling freezes, condensation will form on the ceiling. To solve this problem, you need to add a thermal insulation layer. Read also: “Proper insulation of a steam room from the inside - advice from professionals.”

Here are the different types of thermal insulation. What is the best insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse to use is determined in each specific case.

Ceiling insulation technology

Regardless of what the bathhouse is built from, there are practically no differences in the design of its upper ceiling.

Beams act as a load-bearing base. They are laid on top rims made of logs or beams, and if the structure is brick or panel, then the mauerlat serves as a support for the beams. Read also: “How to insulate a brick bathhouse with your own hands correctly.”

Before installation, the timber used for the beam floor must be treated with a disinfectant. But if the wood has not been treated with special means in advance, then this should certainly be done before starting work on laying the insulation. The places where wood comes into contact with materials such as brick, foam concrete, and alloy require particularly painstaking processing.

Read also: “How and with what to insulate a bathhouse from the outside - options and examples.”

Let's consider step by step how to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse:

• Boards are attached to the bottom of the beams.
• Rolling boards are made, that is, boards of low quality are taken and two rows are knocked together perpendicular to each other. It should look like a box. Before knocking down the roll-up panels onto the ceiling of the bathhouse with your own hands, you need to make calculations.

  Beams and panels should not be placed close to each other; gaps of at least 5 cm must be left between them. There must be a distance of at least 25 cm from the chimney to the wood panels. It is necessary to draw a diagram and, in accordance with it, calculate the size and shape of each panel . To avoid confusion during installation, all panels must be numbered.

• Finished shields also need to be impregnated with disinfectants.
• A vapor barrier is laid inside each shield. It needs to be secured with staples.
• The shields go up. You need to start with those that will be installed last.
• The boards are placed in accordance with the numbering.

  The installation is done in such a way that the lower planes of the shield and the beam coincide.

• Then the thermal insulation is placed in the “boxes”. Also, the joints between the panels and supports need to be insulated. The owners of the bathhouse independently select the best way to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse. The choice depends on a combination of different factors.
• Boards are laid on top. They need to be placed across the beams. In this case, it is not necessary to take the entire length of the board; you can also use short boards. The boards can be changed to fiberboard or self-made slabs from a cement solution mixed with sawdust.
• The finished ceiling should be treated with fire-fighting agents.
• All wood elements located near the chimney must be covered with asbestos sheets.

The insulated ceiling is ready.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The ceiling of the steam room should perform two functions: not allow warm air and steam to pass out and ensure the accumulation of steam in the room.

The ceiling of the steam room must contain two layers of vapor barrier and an additional layer of thermal insulation.

Let's consider several options for installing a ceiling in a steam room.

Design from Sosnin Yu.P. and Buharkina E.N.

Sosnin Yu.P. and Buharkin E.N., the creators of the book “Household Stoves, Fireplaces and Water Heaters,” give the following option on how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse in a steam room:

Other methods of thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The technology for performing thermal insulation using clay and mineral wool looks like this:

• For filing from below to the ceiling supports, an unedged board 5 cm wide is used.
• Outside, along the beams, a narrow board is attached using wood grouse.

  It is needed to support the filing.

• Tongue-and-groove aspen boards are screwed to a fixed narrow board, and a ventilation gap must be placed between them.
• On the attic side there is a vapor barrier
• Then clay mixed with sawdust is laid in a 3 cm layer.
• Mineral wool is laid. You should take insulation with a density of 125 units and a width of 15 cm.
• To protect from the wind, a polypropylene film is laid.
• Finally, the attic floor is made from boards

If the bathhouse has a log floor, then first a sheathing is made, and then the sheathing is attached to it.

Glassine is laid on top as a vapor barrier. Then sand is poured in a layer equal to 20 cm. Other actions depend on the desire of the bathhouse owner.

To properly insulate a bathhouse, you need to know which insulation is best for a bathhouse on the ceiling, in what sequence the layers should be placed, as well as the individuality of insulating the ceiling in a steam room. The ceiling arrangement options described above can be changed depending on weather conditions and personal preferences.

Leave feedback:

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands?

Good thermal insulation is the basis for a comfortable stay in any room.

To insulate rooms for various purposes, various types of insulating materials are used. The difference between a bathhouse and other rooms is the constantly changing temperature. When heated, warm air rises, but when it reaches the cool surface of the ceiling, it cools down. The bathhouse quickly cools down. Let's talk about how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands in order to cope with the constantly changing temperature.

Types and characteristics of insulation

To understand the question of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, you need to have an idea of ​​the means used for this purpose.

The bathhouse is a special place with high humidity and frequent temperature changes.

Therefore, thermal insulation materials must have the following properties:

• resistance to moisture and temperature surges;
• resistance to mold;
• possibility of combination with finishing and ceilings;
• environmentally friendly, without evaporation of harmful compounds when the temperature rises;
• ability to retain heat;
• easy installation.

To insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, you can use the following means:

2 types: A - protection from condensation and wind from the outside; B - protects premises from emitted steam from the inside

Elastic slabs made of basalt fiber with low density

Cheap for roof insulation.

A layer of soil must be poured on top

Porous, clay in the form of capsules of different densities. For good insulation you need a wide layer

Insulates against water from the inside. Available in rolls, stapled to the entire ceiling

Plates or rolls with foil coating on a fiberglass base

Low thermal conductivity, fire resistance, easy to install

You can insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse inexpensively using sawdust, or purchase the highest quality insulating agent.

The listed ones perfectly retain heat in the room and immediately regulate air exchange flows.

Types of ceilings in the bathhouse

Before you start insulating the bathhouse ceiling with your own hands, you need to figure out what kind of ceiling covering is installed in the room.

Depending on the structure and design of the ceiling, you can choose an insulating option.

The ceilings in the bathhouse are:

• flooring (in small buildings). The structure consists of boards resting on the walls of the building.;
• hemmed (large premises). It is possible to construct an attic compartment;
• panel ones are mounted from panels of similar size. A difficult ceiling covering option.

Regardless of the installation of the bathhouse ceiling, it is important to properly insulate the room. Let's look at each type and insulation method in turn.

Ceiling covering

Watch the video on how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse with flooring.

Here the boards laid on the walls of the building are fixed along the entire perimeter of the room, there are no floor beams. Check out the step-by-step execution of the work:

• a vapor barrier layer is laid on the wood covering;
• there is insulation on top;
• When using expanded clay or mineral wool mats, attach edges around the entire perimeter in advance. Therefore, it is important to first decide on a choice;
• cover the insulation with a waterproofing film;
• Plywood sheets or boards are laid on top of the entire structure.

Such insulation is practiced only in small buildings.

False ceilings

To figure out how to insulate a bathhouse ceiling with your own hands on a suspended ceiling surface, let’s look at the structure of such a coating:

1. beam floors rest on the walls - they also serve as a frame base for other parts of the covering;
2. waterproofing is laid in the attic, which will protect the buildings from moisture;
3. Wood or plywood flooring is laid from the attic;
4. the insulation is laid between the ceilings and closed from the inside with a special vapor barrier;
5. The structure is covered with clapboard on top.

To insulate a suspended ceiling, different bathhouses are used, and the sequence of work depends on them.

Expanded clay is considered a common insulation material.

The insulation is installed in the following sequence:

1. From the inside, rough boards are attached to the ceilings (a typical box is mounted);
2. the resulting cracks are covered with a layer of clay with lime and sawdust - a vapor barrier comes out;
3. Expanded clay is poured into the box and covered with a protective film;
4. the flooring of their boards is installed.

After the laid consistency has hardened, you can add mineral insulation, or add another layer of expanded clay.

We use mineral wool

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cool roof with mineral wool is carried out in the following sequence:

1. on the attic side, a waterproofing layer is fixed to the ceilings and a covering of boards is placed on top;
2. on the inside, insulation is laid between the beams;
3. the entire structure is covered with a vapor barrier;
4. Wood slats are used to secure the frame.

For comfort, the slats can be covered with clapboard.

We insulate the panel ceiling covering

The panel structure consists of panels made of support bars.

The boarded bars have a layer of vapor and waterproofing inside. For such a ceiling covering, mineral wool is most often used. Although the insulation layer must be at least 100 mm, the structure is lightweight.

• laying a vapor barrier layer;
• insulation;
• waterproofing.

For the panel version of the ceiling covering, the process of laying insulation is considered more complex.

This is explained by the fact that insulating layers must be laid between all panels.

Watch the video on how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse with your own hands using different methods, depending on the ceiling covering.

External insulation

The room can be insulated both from the inside and from the outside. The advantage of external insulation:

• not affected by temperature, steam;
• there is no effect of condensation on the thermal insulation layers;
• no heat is lost.

Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling from the outside is necessary to prevent heat from escaping outside. Subsequent ones are used

For baths made of brick or concrete, mineral wool will be a good external insulation. Polystyrene foam is also best used for brick buildings. Expanded clay is suitable for buildings of any type.

Making the walls and ceiling warmer

It doesn’t matter what kind of material your bathhouse is built from.

For convenient use of the building, it is necessary to insulate it completely. Insulating the walls and ceiling in the bathhouse will allow the building to warm up better and faster, and waste less effort and time on kindling it.

To insulate the ceiling and walls in the bathhouse, you need to lay insulation in the dressing room, steam room and the washing compartment itself. There is no need to be afraid of huge expenses, everything will pay off later. After all, for an insulated room you will have to waste several times less firewood.

Some owners insulate baths using ancient methods, laying the ceilings and partitions of the building with moss or tow.

On the one hand, they are natural, environmentally friendly. On the other hand, such insulation will not last long. It will either be stolen by birds or damaged by insects.

It is advisable to think about insulating the walls and ceiling of the bathhouse even before its construction. This will make it easier to lay insulating materials once during the construction process. You can use linen, felt or jute. This is the exterior finishing. The interior of the bathhouse can be processed no earlier than six months later. Just like any structure, a bathhouse will shrink.

After shrinking, you can caulk the seams with felt and treat the top with a sealant to prevent moisture from entering.

The walls in the bathhouse are insulated as follows:

1. Paving sheathing (horizontal and vertical) is attached to the load-bearing walls.

   The thickness of the bars must be approximately 2 cm wider than the insulation. The base is installed to protect the insulation from wear;

2. glass wool slabs or mineral insulation are laid between the gratings;
3. on top, a foil-based vapor barrier is laid overlapping4
4. all joints must be covered with duralumin tape;
5. A slatted sheathing is attached to the entire structure. Its purpose is to create ventilation between the vapor barrier and the finish.

At the end of the work, the structure is sewn up with clapboard.
Foil is used in rooms with high humidity - steam rooms and washing rooms.

Kraft paper is suitable for the dressing room and rest room. Foil can be replaced with polyethylene. Instead of lining, try lining it with plasterboard sheets or planed boards.

Do not forget that complete insulation of a room includes all elements of the building. This also applies to windows. They also need to be insulated: adjust the frames, seal the cracks. Warm air will take a long time to leave the room.

Watch a detailed video of insulating a bathhouse ceiling.

If the ceiling is wooden

Step-by-step summary of insulating a bathhouse with a wooden ceiling surface:

1. fiberglass is applied to the rough boards;
2. dilute the clay mixture with sand (ratio 1:1), mix with sawdust.

   Fill the fiberglass with consistency (thickness of the filling layer is 30 mm);

3. the next filling layer consists of a consistency of clay with sand and vermiculite (1:3);
4. Depending on weather conditions, leave the layers until completely dry. This may take from 2.5 weeks to 2 months;
5. Place polystyrene foam (150 mm) on the consistency of clay and sand;
6. mix cement with foam chips (1:3) and pour onto the foam.

The insulation is complete. If there is an attic room above the bathhouse, the outermost filling layer must be covered with roofing felt or wood flooring must be installed.

We insulate concrete floors

If the bathhouse has concrete floors, then insulation is performed as follows:

1. Wood beams are attached from the inside of the bathhouse under the ceiling surface;
2. fiberglass is attached to concrete slabs;
3. insulation layer;
4. a layer of foil fabric;
5. slatted sheathing;
6. pour expanded clay in the attic compartment;
7. insulation.

If necessary, you can lay a plank floor.

Carefully inspect the entire room to ensure there are no gaps or cracks. And for ventilation, leave several small gaps on the ceiling of the bathhouse between the facing m and the foil fabric.

This method of insulation can be compared to the work of a thermos: inside the washing room and steam room the highest temperature is maintained for a long time. You can stay in the bath longer, but it will take less time to kindle.

We insulate the steam room

To prevent heat from escaping through the roof of the bathhouse, care must be taken to insulate the ceiling area.

To insulate the steam room, you need to perform the following stages of work:

1. roll paper is attached from the inside, overlapping to the ceiling;
2. Using screws and nails, a base of wood blocks is fixed on top of the paper. Try to place the bars closer to each other. This way you can avoid the formation of voids;
3. We lay insulation on the base. Use planks to hold;
4. the frame structure is sewn up with foil fabric (possibly in two layers);
5. We attach wood blocks that will become the basis for the cladding.

In order to perfectly insulate a room, you need to do the work step by step.

Don’t forget to wear protective clothing while working. Cover exposed areas of the body and use eye glasses.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the attic side

How to independently carry out work on insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse

Insulating the bathhouse ceiling is an essential rule for arranging a comfortable steam room. The old folk methods that provide the best local climate in a room with the highest temperature conditions have still not lost their relevance.

Along with them, new technologies also show good insulation characteristics.

In order to correctly carry out insulation work with your own hands, you need to look at all the available options and choose the most acceptable one for yourself.

Popular insulation methods

Based on the experience of experts, mineral wool, clay, expanded clay and earth can be distinguished from all of them. A bathhouse, steam room and washing room can be insulated using several methods and different ones suitable for this procedure can be used in the work.

Traditional methods are known for their cheap components, environmental friendliness and fire safety, but their implementation will require more time and effort.

Modern methods, on the contrary, are the simplest in terms of installation, but will entail certain costs.

What should not be used?

If you decide to stop choosing modern ones, you should keep in mind that in such work you should under no circumstances use polystyrene foam. This affordable and popular thermal insulation, when heated, emits chemical substances that poison the air in the room, and in places where it touches a hot pipe it can completely melt.

Multilayer construction

A correctly executed insulation design consists of a pair of layers and is a so-called insulation pie, where they are placed in the following order:

• waterproofing (membrane film);
• basalt insulation;
• protective foil.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer averages from 20 cm and depends on the type of roof (presence of an attic), the multifunctional purpose of the room and the climate in the region in which the building is erected.

As a rule, in a steam room these characteristics are increased and two layers of membrane film are laid in front of the insulation sheets, which will increase the concentration of steam inside the bath.

Mineral wool

Insulating a bathhouse ceiling with mineral wool is equally suitable for rooms with and without an attic.

The main thing is to provide the ceiling with floor supports on which the insulation cake will be fixed.

This method is quite simple to perform and will not entail huge financial costs. Before thermal insulation is installed, all wood elements are treated with disinfectants. Then all the work consists of stages.

Installation of vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is divided into several types: ordinary, duralumin foil and membrane film. For a bath room, insulation with a duralumin coating or foil insulation is best suited.

Along with protection from water, it provides heat reflection into the steam room, which allows you to save two or three times on heating.

The vapor barrier film sheets are overlapped onto the wood support using a construction stapler. Using foil tape, carefully glue all the joints. This is the most effective method to correctly and accurately provide a bathhouse with thermal insulation.

Installation of sheathing

On the inside of the room, perpendicular to the wooden supports, a sheathing is nailed, which fixes the insulation and is sheathed on top with cladding m.

On the first edge, a gap is left between the vapor barrier layer and the decorative cladding, which will reflect heat, and the insulation layer will lie tightly on the foil insulation.

Installation of insulation

The selected type of insulation is pressed into the space formed between the ceiling supports of the steam room.

There should be no gaps between the sheets of mineral wool; to do this, they are compressed and installed in the seats with little force.

In order for this process to proceed without difficulty, the beams are fixed from each other at a distance of at least 1 - 1.5 cm from the width of the wool.

Laying waterproofing

To reliably protect the insulation from water and contaminants entering from the outside, it is covered with polyethylene or thermal film.

As in the case of vapor barrier, the film is fixed to the supporting structure using a construction stapler.

For natural air circulation, a ventilation gap is provided between the heat-insulating and water-insulating layers.

Installation of decorative cladding

The insulation pie is completed with decorative finishing of the bathhouse ceiling. Cladding panels are nailed to the ceiling supports with finishing nails. A stainless steel screen is traditionally suspended above the heater (at a distance of 15 cm from the ceiling). This will protect the roof section from overheating and, as a result, deformation.

To protect the thermal insulation structure from mechanical damage, it is recommended to install a subfloor in bathhouses with an attic.

The most popular and high-quality cladding for the ceiling of a steam room is lining made of linden wood, larch or aspen.

These types of wood can withstand high temperatures and create a healthy local indoor climate.

Folk

In bathhouses with an attic, heat loss is reduced by using sawdust, sand and clay.

At the beginning of the process, the attic floor is covered with an overlapping vapor barrier (roofing felt, isolon). The top is covered with a twenty-centimeter layer of sawdust, onto which soil is poured (a layer of 5 cm).

To increase the thermal insulation effect, sawdust can be mixed with sand or clay mass.

Thermal insulating composition

There is an ancient, reliable recipe that meets all the requirements for insulating ceilings in bathhouses and can be easily prepared with your own hands. To do this, a composition 2 cm wide, prepared from cement, clay, sawdust and water in a ratio of 1: 2: 3: 0.7, is applied to the boards from the attic side.

After complete drying, a monolithic thermal insulation board appears, which is also fire resistant.

Sawdust

It is better to obtain sawdust in carpentry shops - they work with perfectly dried material, and the shavings and sawdust are dry and lightweight.

In ancient times, sawdust was sprinkled with ash on top, but now a membrane film is used as a candidate.

If you plan to use the attic space, then a boardwalk with a ventilation gap is installed.

Expanded clay

If there is no sawdust, do not despair, since you can insulate the ceiling of the bathhouse using the widely used expanded clay. It has the highest thermal insulation properties, but it absorbs water, which is why a vapor barrier device will be needed on the side of the steam room.

Expanded clay is poured onto it (a layer of 30 cm) and the layers are completed with waterproofing m. If desired, flooring is installed.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse so that the steam warms the body and not the roof

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but we will find out how to maintain steam and temperature in a steam room so that the heat does not escape through the walls and ceiling.

In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.

A little about the physics of heat

There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with the environment; Although air is not a good conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.

Coffee will not cool below room temperature. How to do this quickly? Speed ​​up heat exchange! Pour the coffee into an iron mug. The alloy has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain.

And in the process of transfusion itself, the liquid comes into direct contact with the air and gives it heat energy.

Convection is the transfer of heat due to the movement of water or gas. When bathing in a sauna, you pour water onto hot pebbles, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the sauna.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? There will be no significant drop in temperature; a ladle of water will not be able to take away the heat from the pebbles. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry vapor, which will occupy the upper position (that’s why it’s hot on the top shelf); the air will take longer to cool, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

Radiant heat, released in the form of infrared radiation specifically from the stove, differs from the other two methods, since a medium for transferring heat between two separate objects is not needed.

The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is a thermos.

In essence, this is a bottle in a bottle, between which the space is divided by a vacuum and, reflecting radiant waves, a silver screen - a mirror.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the plug. In the case of a bathhouse, this is the ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on what they are made of and the ability to retain heat in the bath.

You need to create a barrier against heat loss using thermal insulation, like in a thermos. To protect against water, there are vapor barrier films. There are two known methods of insulating the ceiling: from the inside of the bathhouse and from the outside. The choice depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bathhouse is insulated on.

The best method of thermal insulation of a bathhouse ceiling is external insulation from the attic.

There are advantages here:

• There is no loss of space for the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
• Larger selection of insulating materials;
• The requirements for environmental safety and water resistance are not as strict as for inside a bathhouse;
• Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the outside?

There are countless options.

If the attic floor is made of OSP slabs, then a vapor barrier film is laid on them, and the ceiling of the bathhouse is insulated on top with basalt wool. They are laid in two layers to cover the joints, then they are covered with a vapor barrier film on top, saw cuttings are placed on it and that’s it, if the attic is not used.

The ancient method is even simpler: insulating the ceiling with sawdust and clay.

Our ancestors added clay to prevent mice from settling in sawdust.

Insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse with expanded clay is done like this: a reinforced polyethylene film is placed on the substrate, then expanded clay is poured on top. In general, we constantly tried to make do with local materials for insulation; the slag was also poured into the attics, first sifted through a large mesh and obtained an excellent insulating material. But at the moment, they are making floors more often and using the attic space for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

Special requirements for the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged as follows: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs from edged boards 20 x 100 or 40 x 100 mm are attached, and insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate it with “Eco” mineral wool, then they sew up chipboard, boards, OSP on top - they make a floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation products. Choosing which insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse is best suited for indoor installation and which one is best suited for outdoor installation is not easy.

When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also by the technical features. Not the least important role is played by the flammability class, its properties of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

The inside of the bathhouse is insulated if it is made of heat-conducting brick, concrete slabs, or thin boards. Insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool can be done with your own hands by anyone who knows how to use a building level and has the ability to do the work. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, and a sheathing is made from timber. First, the beam is screwed vertically to the wall with self-tapping screws. Make stands with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is made on the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying the mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the insulating duct of the chimney.

Below we will look at how to do this. The transverse dimensions of the beams depend on the type of thermal insulation placed between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you will get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell with air, which will fill the pores.

Fasten between the slats, as in the image. Choose environmentally friendly ones.

Then additionally insulate the bathhouse ceiling with foil, which has a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, trapping heat. Begin to attach the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with staples to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose the appropriate property.

Ask for a safety compliance certificate. Not all are suitable for insulating a bathhouse from the inside.

Ensure compliance with the rules for installing chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney pipe through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.

An economical insulation option is considered. There are others, the most expensive, but effective in their thermal insulation qualities, since they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands: a step-by-step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require any preparation.

Now that you understand how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool, make exactly the same sheathing for the panels if the walls are crooked.

Panel sizes: 1.2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as conventional roll insulation. It is recommended to soak wooden surfaces in the bathhouse with a disinfectant before installing the panels.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have a tongue and groove connection. In Scandinavian countries, these plates are used to insulate saunas, including those with steam.

A special sealing foam seals the joints; the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation notes:

1. Prepare: a knife, fasteners, sealing foam and duralumin tape.

2. Before installing the first panel, cut the tenon along the entire length of the panel.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied to the joint.

4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and umbrellas are driven in at the fastening points.

Fasteners, tape, sealant - everything is included in the kit. Ask the sellers.

5. The panels are simply joined into a groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel edges before installation.

6. Then the panels are attached to the ceiling supports, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all joints are additionally taped.

7. Below, if you plan to screed the floor, remove the top layer from the panel 10-15 cm from the floor along the entire perimeter and make waterproofing in the places of the baseboard where the wall meets the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick on waterproofing tape and apply the paste again.

Then they make a sheathing for clapboard covering.

8. Finishing with clapboard.

Insulating the ceiling involves cutting it into an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. This is what the factory version of the box looks like.

It is not recommended to install it in this form; it needs to be improved. I don’t understand why it’s not done at the factory? The outer side is additionally sheathed with non-flammable material (minerite). Insert into the ceiling together with the pipe.

The thermodynamic processes occurring in the bathhouse during heating and procedures must remain inside the system (steam room) for as long as possible, and this can only be done with proper thermal insulation of the ceiling, walls, section of the ceiling in the place of the pipe, doors.

Useful video

The benefits from the correct selection and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - quick heating of the bath, fuel savings, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience during the bath procedures.

Be careful. Don’t make a mistake in your choice; contact those who perform these works comprehensively: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation of ventilation systems, and other work.

(3 ratings, average: 5.00 out of 5) ...

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse

It seems that there are few who will disagree with the statement that the premises of a bathhouse, and especially a Russian steam room, must be warm, that is, have less temperature contact with the external environment. Only with these criteria will this building correspond to its multifunctional purpose, which provides for a special local climate with high humidity and the same temperature during the period of intended use.

Therefore, when arranging a dressing room, and especially a steam room, it is necessary to carry out a number of thermal insulation measures, which will, firstly, help quickly bring the local climate to a suitable condition, and secondly, will allow you to economically maintain the temperature within the desired limits.

In this case, the first place should be the insulation of the bathhouse ceiling, which is a barrier between the hot air rushing upward and the cool attic. After all, the higher the air temperature in the room, the greater the percentage of heat loss that occurs specifically through the ceilings. In a hot steam room, this figure can reach 70%. Almost everyone knows this fact, which is why the question arises about how to properly insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse in order to minimize heat loss.

The availability of thermal insulation technology is also fundamental, since the steam room in most cases is an author’s project, that is, it is made with one’s own hands from start to finish.

If you are planning to build or repair a steam room yourself, then most likely you have wondered: what is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse from the inside and how to properly cover it with your own hands, and also looked for examples with videos.

Why is this necessary?

A person in a steam room often encountered such a phenomenon as condensation. It is formed when hot steam rises and drops of water appear in the room. It doesn’t matter whether the steam room is built into the room or is a separate structure, it is necessary to insulate it. The only question is how and to what extent. If it is built into the room, excess heat can go into the house. Therefore a thermal camera is required.

Wooden parts of the structure are most exposed to the aggressive effects of high temperatures and moisture. Therefore, the coating must be of high quality to ensure an “impeccable” microclimate in the steam room.

To make wood last longer, it is impregnated with various compounds (additives - fire retardants). They increase durability. This safety measure is justified, because the temperature in the steam room reaches 100°C. However, chemical anti-mold coatings will produce toxic fumes at high temperatures.

The main “ally” of wooden coverings is insulation, which should retain hot steam indoors and prevent the development of rot. It protects the wood from condensation, prevents wood from rotting and extends its service life.

Proper insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse or steam room with your own hands involves observing the following points:

1. Steam must accumulate and remain indoors.
2. The inside of the roof must be protected from high humidity.
3. It is necessary to prevent the occurrence and accumulation of condensation both in the steam room itself and in the ceilings under the lining in the walls and ceiling.

Features of insulation

Not all products are used for insulation. Plastic products will deform from high temperatures. If you use plywood or fiberboard, then from the hot air they will begin to expand and change shape, accumulating moisture. These products are definitely not suitable. The best way is to finish in several layers:

1. The first step is to use an insulating material that prevents water from penetrating.
2. Place a second layer of insulation (for example, mineral wool).
3. The third level is aluminum foil.

This “multi-layering” holds heat well and does not allow steam to escape for a long time, so heat losses are reduced.

Insulation materials can be divided into the following types:

• fibers;
• plates;
• blocks;
• wall slabs;
• backfill.

And depending on the composition they distinguish:

• Organic such as ecowool.
• Inorganic - mineral wool.
• Expanded polystyrene.
• Other insulation materials such as technovent and technoblock.

Functions of bathhouse ceiling thermal insulation

High-quality insulation material must be:

• heat-resistant to prevent fire;
• environmentally friendly (should not emit harmful fumes);
• “breathe” so that water does not collect and condensation does not accumulate;
• resistant to moisture.

Types and design features

First you need to find out what kind of roof you have - with or without an attic. Structurally similar options for buildings made of logs and panels. They have:

• steam insulation;
• insulation;
• hemming boards;
• beams
• sheathing

Vapor barrier is applied to the wall and ceiling, then timber, then insulation. You can use basalt wool in the form of mats, then again a layer of vapor barrier, then a block and fastening the lining. As an option, respectively, 40 mm timber and 40 mm insulation. You don't need too much insulation. Excessive consumption of materials in this case is inappropriate.

On the ceiling, the structure must be made with a slope to collect condensation. As a result, there remains space under the lining, allowing the bathhouse to dry out. The power of a modern stove is enough to warm up a bathhouse well. Ideally, the steam room is dried by ventilation and a fuel-processing furnace.

If there is no attic, then you need to perform additional steps:

• coat the entire lining with clay with a layer of up to two centimeters to reduce heat loss;
• sprinkle the coating with a mixture of cement and wood chips (you can use slag up to 15 cm - this measure helps eliminate condensation).

If you want to make a properly functioning steam room, then you first need to take care of vapor barrier (not waterproofing with vapor permeability) of the ceiling to create a steam pocket up to the level of the top edge of the door to retain steam and create humidity in the region of 60%.

Vapor barrier of floor beams and the entire ceiling pie is a consequence, not a cause. Ceiling insulation without foil is completely irrelevant, since the steam room will not perform the functions that are assigned to it. If you need a steam bath, and not a sauna, you will have to open the casing and do a vapor barrier on the ceiling. If this is not done on time, then after a season or two you will have to replace damp insulation and rotten beams.

To protect wall structures, regardless of what they are made of, it is necessary to insulate the outside to prevent moisture from entering in the form of condensation at the dew point into the material. For the Russian type of bathhouse, insulating the walls from the inside is not necessary, since it is possible to create a regime of 60° and 60% even with leaky walls, but with a well-waterproofed ceiling and a voluminous brick stove with a powerful thermal core inside. Ideally, put foam glass insulation on top of aerated concrete walls in 50 mm thick slabs, and then plaster and decorate with wood.

Flat ceiling

He is not seen as often as before. The use of hewn round timber is widespread. This method was previously considered the most profitable - people only had to go into the forest and chop everything they needed for construction themselves. This is currently the most expensive option.

There are several installation options.

1. Along the crowns of the log house, if the room area is small (length no more than 2.5 m). Boards of small thickness (50 mm) are used as flooring; an even more economical method is edged tongue-and-groove options (25 mm).
2. There is an interesting option for covering with unedged sanded boards. They are laid in 2 levels. Gaps and irregularities of the first level are covered by the second level.
3. On the floor beams. With this option, the area of ​​the room can be larger. An accent on the beams will add flair and look great.
4. On a supporting frame made of slats. Suitable for small spaces and used less frequently. Make it easier. But if the room has an attic, then it cannot be used. The roof may not be able to handle the heavy load.

The process takes place in several steps.

1. The attic is lined with a vapor barrier film (PIP) with an overlap of 10-15 cm (foil surface down).
2. Mineral wool is placed on top of it (instead, the surface can be covered with expanded clay or covered with a mixture of sawdust and clay).
3. The work is completed by laying a waterproofing film (WIP) - roofing felt or polyethylene.

False ceilings

They have load-bearing capacity, are often used as an attic, and their installation will cost you much less.

To make this coating, you need to install the beams in advance. Then boards or panels of tongue-and-groove boards are evenly laid on them. This structure is insulated with fibrous material. The installation process will take place in stages:

1. The GIP is taken and laid on the beams from the roof side. This is done overlapping.
2. Boards or sheets of plywood are placed on the waterproofing.
3. Mineral wool is laid between the beams. Its thickness varies from 150 to 250 mm (depending on the climate of the area). All joints must be covered with another sheet.
4. We attach a vapor barrier to the bottom of the beams.
5. Then we attach the wood slats.
6. At the last stage, the lining is attached.

Having completed all the work, you will receive additional storage space - an attic or attic.

Panel ceiling

It's difficult to do on your own. To begin with, a special structure is made from panels. Then it needs to be fixed on top of the cross beams or on the top of the wall. How the installation works:

1. Boards are placed closely on the supports (perpendicular).
2. Then we attach narrow boards to the inside of the PP, they will be the sides.
3. The next step will be laying the PIP.
4. We put ecowool (or any other) into the resulting space of the panels.
5. Then you need to put a film of polyethylene or roofing felt.
6. The final stage will be the installation of the boards; they will be the future floor.

Insulation for the ceiling in a bathhouse: which material is best suited

Previously, it was customary to use natural raw materials such as moss, clay, sawdust, straw or earth.

Now people have begun to use the most effective coatings. They make all the work easier, even if you are not a professional builder. For example, it is widely used:

• basalt wool;
• expanded clay;
• penoizol;
• ecowool and others.

You can also use polystyrene foam and glass wool. But when heated, the first one emits harmful gases and can ignite. A good protective suit is recommended for working with fiberglass.

The question is whether or not to insulate the entire building only inside or on both sides. There are many opinions on this matter, but the truth is in the middle. There are many additional factors you need to know:

• this is a Russian bath or sauna;
• what material is the bathhouse made of?
• what kind of stove does it cost?

How to insulate outside

To keep the steam inside and not escape outside, you need to achieve a “thermos” effect. Insulation must be both inside and outside the building. To achieve this effect, you will need insulation for the ceiling in the bathhouse. There are different options:

• waterproofing film;
• expanded clay;
• mineral wool or others.

Builders create a “multi-layer cake” from these elements. Blocks are used on the roof side. PIP is placed on top. And the last layer is expanded clay, fibrous and other materials.

How to insulate from the inside

Let's look at some modern types of insulation:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool;
• ecowool;
• foamed polypropylene;
• penoizol;
• growing aerated concrete.

Mineral wool

It has a fibrous structure that looks like ordinary cotton wool. During the production process, a crushed mixture of various rocks (basalt, dolomite, limestone) is added to it. This cotton wool is very popular due to its properties:

• long service time;
• good hygroscopicity (excellently absorbs water);
• resistant to overheating (fireproof).

The thickness of the wool is from 20 to 25 mm. The efficiency is much higher if it is placed on PIP. To work with it you need a thick suit and rubber gloves.

Foil insulation

It is perfect for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse. Metal spraying retains heat and provides good vapor barrier. This is economically beneficial because little fuel is required to heat the room. This insulation is presented:

• mineral wool with aluminum film (produced in rolls and slabs);
• polymer fabric based on foil (has a small thickness, produced in the form of rolls).

Foil has 2 purposes:

• reflect IR rays;
• protection (waterproofing or vapor barrier) of the ceiling from moisture and rot.

This insulation resists high temperatures, is easy to cut, and does not emit toxic fumes. But if the entire steam room is packed in foil, then it is absolutely not vapor-permeable. Therefore, the room turns out to be not comfortable (heavy), like in a greenhouse; therefore, in such a bathhouse it is necessary to do proper ventilation.

Expanded clay

In appearance it resembles small clay stones with pores. Absorbs water abundantly, which is its weak point. It is used in combination with steam and waterproofing materials. Expanded clay also has many advantages:

• environmentally friendly product, without foreign toxic impurities;
• does not ignite;
• has a long service life;
• bacteria and fungi do not form in it;
• cheap product;
• it's easy to use.

Penoizol

It is foam plastic in liquid form and is classified as a thermal insulation material. It fills all areas (even hard-to-reach ones). It has many advantages:

• cheapness;
• excellent quality (does not expand when it dries);
• does not ignite;
• lasts a long time;
• Mold and mildew do not form on it.

Cement and sawdust

This method of insulation is characterized as “old-fashioned”. To make the finished mixture, you will need 10 parts of sawdust, one of lime, and one of cement. Then add 1.5 parts of water to get the finished product.

The solution is evenly distributed over the entire surface. This is an economically profitable option, since the cost is very low. In addition, the resulting solution is environmentally friendly. Minuses:

• it is difficult to prepare;
• thermal insulation properties are lower compared to other options;
• no protection against mold;
• When dry, cracks appear that need to be greased.

Ecowool insulation

Quite an effective way to retain heat. Environmentally friendly fibrous pulp made from cellulose. Substances that improve its properties are added to it: boric acid, sodium tetraborate. Thanks to them ecowool:

• fire resistant;
• resists the development of bacteria;
• prevents the appearance of insects and rodents.

It is also lightweight and spreads over the entire area, filling the voids. Its main disadvantage is moisture absorption. This reduces thermal insulation.

Features of insulation products

Manufacturers offer various membrane films that protect materials from high humidity. Experienced builders recommend purchasing vapor barrier upholstery with a reflective foil layer that does not allow heat to escape. The following types with a foil layer are distinguished:

• polypropylene;
• kraft paper;
• roofing felt;
• membrane;
• foil;
• coating

This film is installed with a large overlap (10-15 cm), and the joints are taped with foil tape for construction work.

In specialized departments of stores there is a wide selection of waterproofing products - foil-coated kraft paper, construction membrane and other products. Although you can save money and purchase regular plastic film or roofing felt.

How to insulate concrete floors

If you are completely confused by the wide range and do not understand what material to use, then take the advice of experienced builders. For example, with concrete floors it is recommended to use expanded clay.

No special preliminary preparation is required. For convenience, timber slats can be attached to the base of the roof. This will make it easier to check the uniformity of expanded clay distribution. Although this condition is advisory in nature.

So, pour expanded clay (30 cm thick) over the entire surface. An ordinary garden rake will help distribute the granules evenly. If the attic space will be used in the future and a floor is provided, then expanded clay is laid level.

If all the backfill is leveled, you need to lay the GIP. Durable polyethylene is quite suitable. It is distributed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Tape is glued to the joints.

If you want to make a floor, then planks are laid on the beams.

This is a fairly cheap and easy-to-follow method that will help you insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands. But because it is cheap, it does not become less effective.

Installation of thermal insulation

To achieve the main goal - accumulation and “saving” of steam, you need to make 2 layers of PIP and 1 additional layer for thermal insulation. This measure will make the room warmer and more comfortable.

Experts advise placing layers perpendicularly. This arrangement will increase the strength of the entire structure and help avoid severe deformation. If you use mineral wool and clay, the process will take place in several steps:

1. take an unedged board (5 cm) and attach it to the bottom of the beams;
2. to support the filing, we fix the flooring along all the bases;
3. tongue and groove slats made of aspen are attached to them (taking into account the gap for ventilation);
4. We lay vapor barrier material on the outside of the roof;
5. spread mineral wool 15 cm wide over the laid mixture;
6. then we lay polypropylene film;
7. We place boards on top of the resulting structure; this is the future floor of the attic.

If everything is done correctly, the end result should be an excellent steam room. All the steam will remain inside for a long time, and the steam room will not cool down for a long time.

Dry insulation method

Specialists Sosnin Yu.P. and Buharkin E.N. In their book they offer the following method:

1. we take tongue and groove boards (25 mm) and fasten them to the beams, then treat them with drying oil twice so that they become moisture resistant;
2. we sheathe them, maintaining a moisture gap of 3 cm;
3. spread a film on top (polyethylene, roofing felt, or better yet, a foil coating with reinforcement);
4. the next layer can be sand or slag (20 cm thick).

If you properly insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse, following the recommendations and following the technological process, then:

• heat loss will be significantly reduced (up to 35%);
• there will be no fungi or pathogenic bacteria on the surfaces of the steam room;
• less firewood will be required;
• the steam room will last you longer.

In addition to these positive aspects, there are others:

• you can do this work with your own hands without large investments;
• select all the materials that suit you in terms of price and quality.

And the best part is that you and your loved ones will be able to spend time pleasantly and comfortably in your updated sauna.

A modern bathhouse is the ultimate dream of many owners of dachas and country houses. The construction of this building must be carried out taking into account existing rules and technologies. In particular, its functionality and comfort directly depend on how correctly it is possible to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse. The operation of this facility involves the creation of a given microclimate inside with air temperature and humidity significantly exceeding the average for the street and residential premises.

The inability to properly insulate the surface, as well as ineffectively performed thermal insulation work, will require increased energy consumption during heating. In addition, condensation will settle on the walls and ceiling, which, dripping and flowing, will interfere with enjoying all the benefits of the bath and will gradually begin to harm the roof structure, increasing the risk of fungus.

Types of roofs in the bathhouse and methods of insulating them

The design of modern baths, regardless of the material used for their manufacture, can be of two types:

• with a warm roof;
• with a cold roof, which involves installing heat and waterproofing directly under the roof on the ceiling.

According to the laws of physics, heated air always rushes upward, and, without encountering barriers in the form of insulation, it will freely leave the room, reducing energy efficiency.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with a cold roof can be done in two ways:

• from the inside of the room - simple and easy-to-implement technologies that are suitable for objects with high ceilings, allowing them to be reduced by 15-20 cm, depending on the insulation and finishing used.
• outside the room - it is advisable to use it for low buildings, the load-bearing capacity of the roof allows the installation of insulation on the ceiling in the attic space.

Selecting materials for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse

The modern construction market offers a variety of materials with which you can efficiently and inexpensively insulate a ceiling of any design, structure and area. The main task for performing insulation with your own hands is strict adherence to installation technology, as well as the installation of additional layers of vapor and waterproofing. Taking into account the difficult operating conditions of ceilings in bath rooms, the insulation used must meet the following characteristics:

• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• low absorption and stability during prolonged exposure to a humid environment;
• resistance to fungi, rodents and other biological microorganisms;
• simplicity and high speed of DIY installation;
• sufficient level of fire safety;
• low thermal conductivity to create and maintain the desired indoor microclimate for as long as possible;
• complete environmental safety of the material.

Let's look at the most common options for thermal insulation materials used for bathhouse ceilings. This will help determine the better of one or another insulation in each specific case.

This is a natural bulk material obtained by burning clay shale. The packing density of the material depends on the selected fraction. The smaller it is, the higher the density. Among the main advantages of this insulation is complete environmental safety, as well as resistance to any air humidity and temperature changes. It is non-flammable and odorless, and does not generate dust during operation.

Considering the structure of this material, insulation with expanded clay is carried out only outside the room. It is filled from the side of the attic floor, if the design of the bathhouse provides for such a space.

The technology for performing work with this material provides for the following procedure:

• cleaning the surface from dirt and foreign objects;
• installation of a vapor barrier film, which is attached using a stapler or double-sided tape;
• Expanded clay is backfilled in a layer of 15-30 cm;
• the material is covered with a waterproofing film on top;
• The final stage of such insulation is the installation of the roof or plank floor of the attic.

Among the main disadvantages of the decision to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with expanded clay, experts call the inability to install it from inside the room, as well as its use only on flat surfaces or with a minimal slope.

Although this material has not yet become very widespread, it can be used as a modern, highly effective insulation for ceilings. It consists of tiny cellulose fibers, which is harmless to humans and performs excellent thermal insulation functions indoors.

The technology for working with this material provides two methods of application. Dry installation involves external laying of material followed by compaction. In turn, wet application of ecowool is more effective, but requires special equipment, with the help of which the material is applied under pressure to the surface to be insulated. Among the main advantages of using this insulating material, experts highlight:

• complete environmental safety and the ability to easily tolerate sudden temperature changes;
• has a long service life and does not lose its qualities during use;
• minimal weight allows installation on surfaces with low load-bearing capacity;
• non-susceptibility to fungi and lack of attractiveness to rodents;
• treatment with fire retardants indicates increased fire safety and a tendency to self-extinguish during fires.

Mineral wool

When deciding which insulation is better, many people choose this insulating material. Construction supermarkets offer users three types of this fiber insulator:

• glass wool;
• basalt wool, which includes mining waste;
• slag wool made from blast furnace melts.

This material has low thermal conductivity and is resistant to fungal growths and other biological organisms. Mineral wool is resistant to sudden temperature changes and is classified as non-flammable. It comes in the form of slabs or rolls, which are convenient to install on any surface.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling is effective, which can be done both from the inside and outside of the ceiling using this material. In both options, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier at the bottom of the material, and a water barrier at the top. This will help rid the material of its main shortcomings:

• ability to absorb and accumulate moisture;
• evaporation of phenols, which may be part of the insulation.

Installation of mineral wool from the inside of the building is carried out on a pre-prepared sheathing, into the openings of which the material is installed. The frame is most often made of wood, but in some cases a galvanized profile can be used. The surface of the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier and finishing material. In the case of a bathhouse, it can be lining or other structures made of natural wood. You can learn more about the technology of insulating rooms with mineral wool by watching a step-by-step video.

The technology for installing this insulation from the attic side is the same as from the inside of the room. The only difference is the absence of lathing, since laying is done between the joists. In general, mineral wool can be laid on any surface, both in a frame bath and in a permanent brick structure.

Despite some disadvantages, this material is one of the most common and is excellent for effectively insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse from the outside. It is easy to install, does not absorb moisture and has low thermal conductivity. Light weight and the ability to be cut to any required dimensions allow installation on the surface, without regard to the load-bearing capacity of the building.

The disadvantages of extruded polystyrene are the risk of releasing harmful particles during combustion. Work with this material is carried out as follows:

• leveling, cleaning and surface preparation;
• laying vapor barrier material;
• installation of thermal insulation material;
• fastening the plates using special plastic dowels;
• insulation of seams between slabs;
• pouring screed or laying finishing on top of the thermal insulation layer in the outer part of the ceiling.

This material is one of the answers to the question - how can you insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse. The only limiting factor to its use is the need to use specialized equipment for its application, the rental of which can be quite expensive. Among the main advantages of this material are:

• high thermal insulation properties;
• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• high coating strength;
• the ability to carry out work both in a log bathhouse and in frame, brick or cinder block buildings.

A mixture of shavings and clay

This is an excellent in its characteristics and at the same time affordable insulation used from the attic. Sawdust and clay are mixed in a ratio of 10 to 1. Vapor barrier films are laid underneath. The thickness of the layer must be at least 20 cm. After drying, the surface is treated with antiseptics and covered with a hydrobarrier.

This technology is ancient and is suitable for insulating the attic space of a log bathhouse. Blocks are placed on the ceiling, the height of which must be at least 6 cm. Next, insulation is carried out with foil. A layer of clay is placed on top of it to level the surface. After this, you can insulate the ceiling of the bathhouse with earth, the layer of which should exceed 20 cm. To isolate the surface from moisture, a water barrier is laid on top.

Reed insulation

Mats made from these plants can also become excellent environmental insulation. They are laid overlapping between the joists, forming a surface with perfectly insulated joints. This natural material is suitable for lovers of eco-friendly buildings. Reed is not subject to a decrease in its properties during operation, its cost is lower than any similar materials. In addition, its low weight will allow it to be used in buildings with low load-bearing capacities.

Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The main function that the ceiling in a steam room should perform is to isolate it from the penetration of steam, which should accumulate in the room and not leave it during operation. To do this, two layers of vapor barrier and a layer of insulation are installed inside the room.

The standard scheme for insulating a steam room is as follows:

• the lower part of the floor beams is covered with boards;
• Rolling boards are manufactured. These are structures consisting of two layers of perpendicularly knocked down boards, between which a vapor barrier film is fixed. They should be located loosely to each other with a gap of 5 cm. Wooden surfaces should also be at least 25 cm away from the chimney;
• the wooden surface of the shields is impregnated with special antiseptic compounds;
• Insulation is mounted on the panels. It is necessary to insulate all areas of the ceiling;
• Next, the ceiling of the steam room is covered with foil. It increases vapor barrier functions and makes surfaces fire resistant;
• the next layer is the finishing layer, which is treated with fire-retardant compounds.

After this, the insulation of the ceiling in the steam room from the inside can be considered complete.

Conclusion

Based on the above, we can safely say that insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse is a rather complex and labor-intensive process, the result of which can have a direct impact on the functionality, efficiency and ease of use of such objects. It is best to entrust the complex of the above work to specialists, but if you have the necessary tools, equipment and basic skills, you can do it on your own. The main task when performing insulation is strict adherence to technological processes and the willingness to follow all the rules for performing work until the desired result is obtained.

The operating conditions of bathhouses (especially steam rooms) are not similar to the usual operating conditions of residential premises. The microclimate parameters of high-temperature spa areas are important not only for creating comfort, but also for prolonging the life of the buildings themselves. In addition, the problem of energy saving becomes more and more urgent every year. “What is the best way to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse?” — special attention is paid to this issue, since heat losses from upward flows of heated air and steam can amount to up to 30% - 35% of the heat exchange of a steam room.

In addition to the fact that it is necessary to significantly reduce energy losses, it is necessary to achieve certain parameters for vapor barrier. At the same time, we must not forget about the special requirements for the safety and environmental friendliness of all materials used. When choosing the design of the ceiling lathing for a bathhouse, the types of strength elements, membranes and insulation, one should proceed from compliance with three basic principles:

• quick kindling;
• slow cooling (comfort and heat saving);
• a special microclimate characterized by the accumulation of steam (condensation must be avoided).

The classic approach to arranging the ceiling in a steam room involves covering the rough plane (adjacent to the load-bearing beams) with wide, thick boards - “magpies”. A thickness of 50 mm is considered excessive. It is known from application experience that such flooring begins to accumulate moisture, which does not have time to evaporate between steam sessions. As a result, the likelihood of getting a ceiling prone to condensation increases.

When equipping a room with a classic “magpie” lathing, the bathhouse ceiling is most often insulated with mineral wool, expanded clay or other proven insulation materials from above - from the roof side.

The modern trend is associated with the use of two types of insulation, one of which is reflective, and the second plays the role of the main one. The best way to insulate a bathhouse ceiling in order to implement the functions of infrared reflection and thermal break will be discussed in the following sections of the article.

The role of foil materials and vapor barrier films

There are no ideal insulation materials for baths. It is impossible to equally realize the reflection of heat rays, resistance to heat transfer and vapor barrier with one material. Aluminum foil and foil sandwiches such as folgoizol allow you to select the optimal combination of materials for equipping bathhouses of any design.

For example, foil insulation makes it possible to install non-hygroscopic mineral wool, as it is an ideal vapor barrier.

The reflective layer is located immediately behind the decorative ceiling trim. If the main heat-protective layer is placed further, then an air gap of at least 2 - 3 cm must be provided between it and the reflector.

It is advisable to limit the use of polyethylene films to waterproofing in under-roof areas. Vapor barrier without condensation is much better provided by foil sandwiches and membrane materials with special microvilli.

Ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral (also known as basalt) wool is used more often than other materials as the main insulating layer. For many specialists involved in the construction of bathhouses, the question of “how to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse” has long been resolved in its favor. The main advantage of stone wool over all other insulating materials is its high heat resistance and fire safety. Unlike glass wool, the fiber structure based on molten basalt is not harmful to the respiratory system. However, insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with mineral wool also has serious limitations. This is the high hygroscopicity of the material and the presence of hydrophobic impregnations designed to resist the penetration of moisture. Impregnations are made on the basis of waxy, low-melting compounds that are prone to unwanted gas emissions when heated above 70 °C - 80 °C.

Ceiling insulated with mineral wool

Not all mineral wool is suitable for arranging baths. Only non-impregnated brands with a direct indication of their intended use in spa areas should be used: for example, “ISOVER Sauna” or “ROCKWOOL Sauna Butts”. The first material is roll type, the second is made in the form of plates. Both are lined on one side with a vapor barrier based on aluminum foil. The ceiling of the bathhouse should be insulated with mineral wool while providing double-sided hydro- and/or vapor barrier. When installing foil or other types of protective layers, it is necessary to leave an air thermal insulation gap between the cotton wool and the membrane.

Use of expanded polystyrene

In a number of sources you can find statements about the inadmissibility of using foam plastics (PPS) and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) for the equipment of baths and saunas due to the release of harmful substances by these materials when heated. Others claim that the thermal destruction of this insulation begins at 160 °C, and the under-ceiling space of a Russian bath can only warm up to 100 °C - 110 °C. And therefore, they say, restrictions on lining the steam room with foam plastic or EPS do not make sense.

Let's dot the i's in this matter. The fact is that neither the first nor the second position is fully justified. Surface emission of styrene can begin even before thermal degradation (in the range of 90 °C - 130 °C).

Therefore, the material cannot be used as an inner layer of insulation that is in direct contact with the decorative lining of the ceiling in the steam room. But provided that reflective two- and three-layer foil materials are used, it is quite possible to place a heat-protective layer of EPS or EPS behind them, since the temperature on the back surface of the sandwich does not exceed 50 °C.

Expanded polystyrene for a bathhouse ceiling is only possible with a reflective multilayer screen

It is advisable to use expanded polystyrene to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with your own hands, working alone. It is especially convenient to use EPS boards if it is necessary to install a layer of insulation on the lower surface of the rough ceiling. Without assistants, it is extremely difficult to carry out such work with loose materials such as mineral wool.

Expanded clay

Ceiling insulation with expanded clay is used in bathhouses with under-roof spaces (attics, attics). The properties of expanded clay are in many ways similar to those of mineral wool. The same advantages: environmental friendliness, resistance to high temperatures... and the same disadvantage: the material absorbs moisture too well. From below it must be protected from the penetration of steam, and from above - from the effects of atmospheric and condensation moisture.

In addition, the fired granules of this heat insulator have much lower resistance to heat transfer than mineral wool. For this reason, the required thickness of the effective embankment is at least 30 cm.

This option is suitable for large steam rooms. Since the floor beams above spacious rooms have a significant vertical section, deep natural niches are formed for filling the required amount of expanded clay.

Self-growing foam concrete and other DIY insulation materials

Insulating the ceiling with clay and sawdust, homemade cellular concrete, moss and other exotic materials is advisable if you have access to these relatively cheap or free thermal insulators.

If during the construction process you have a surplus of basic rough materials (for example, cement), then some of them can be used to equip a thermally insulated ceiling in the steam room. The technology of self-growing aerated concrete is based on the interaction of three main components: cement, water and a special gas-forming powder. In addition to the listed materials, density-reducing components such as sawdust and straw can be added to the mixture.

The main advantages of the technology compared to expanded clay backfills are lower thermal conductivity and greater moisture resistance. It is enough to fill the resulting cellular material with a layer of 10 - 12 cm. Expansion under the influence of gas-forming additives, in addition to heat-saving properties, helps to obtain a continuous surface without cracks and gaps. In addition, waterproofing is not necessary with this option.

If you have your own carpentry production, and the under-roof area of ​​the bathhouse allows you to backfill in large layers, then you can insulate the ceiling with sawdust, combining it with sand, clay and some other building and natural materials. Clay has good vapor and waterproofing properties. Therefore, before filling with sawdust, first make a clay layer about 2 cm thick. Then the sawdust is filled with a layer of about 10 - 15 cm in height. Sand, dry earth or moss mixed with pine needles are placed on top of the sawdust in a layer of approximately 15 cm. Mixtures of sawdust and clay are also used as masses that have both heat-saving and waterproofing properties.

Each bathhouse requires the organization of high-quality ceiling insulation. This is necessary to prevent the loss of warm air, which will inevitably tend to the top. If the ceiling does not hold it back, then the process of heating the bath and maintaining a constant elevated temperature inside will require increased heat consumption and time.

Another possible problem is condensation in uninsulated rooms. Cold drops flowing here and there will significantly reduce the degree of comfort. And the moisture, which will rise upward along with heat flows, will gradually destroy the ceiling and structural elements of the roof. To prevent condensation, when making a bathhouse, you need to put a heat-insulating “pie” on the ceiling, which will protect the wooden structures in the attic of a bathhouse with a cold roof.

Criteria for choosing insulation

Expert advice on the requirements for heat insulators for a Russian bath:

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

If the material you have selected for thermal insulation meets all the criteria listed above, then it will be safe, warm and comfortable to be inside the waiting room and the steam room itself.

Bathroom ceiling insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is more often found on sale packaged in rolls, their thickness ranges from 5 to 10 centimeters. Working with such material is not difficult, you just need to unwind the roll, measure out the required length of the fragment and, cutting it with an ordinary knife, lay the insulation where it is necessary. Thicker material, over 10 centimeters thick, is sold in the form of slabs or mats, which are laid spaced between the structural elements of the sheathing, rafters or joists from the attic side. Often this method of fastening does not require additional fastening. Experienced builders advise choosing basalt wool for thermal insulation of steam rooms.

In other cases, elements of insulation material will need to be secured. Fixation methods may vary in each specific case and depend on the density of the material and the spaces between the structural elements of the attic or roof.

In addition to fastening by surprise, there are other fastening methods:

ATTENTION! When starting to work with mineral wool, you must prepare means to protect your eyes, breathing and hands - goggles, a respirator and gloves. Ideally, you should use a protective suit to protect your body.

The procedure for thermal insulation of the ceiling space in a bathhouse

Thermal insulation of bathhouse ceiling with expanded clay

Expanded clay is a very budget-friendly and fairly common insulation material for floors and ceilings. You can easily fill it yourself with a minimum of effort. Essentially, expanded clay is large clay granules that have been baked at high temperatures. Its texture resembles a stone with many pores. Such insulation is not afraid of harmful insects, bacteria and other pests of buildings do not develop in it. It is not biodegradable. The insulation is absolutely harmless to human health, since it does not emit hazardous substances. In addition, it is completely non-flammable. The algorithm for thermal insulation of the ceiling space using expanded clay varies depending on the material of the floors - wooden or concrete. First, familiarize yourself with the sequence of insulating concrete floors.

The procedure for insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with expanded clay will differ slightly depending on whether the ceiling is concrete or whether wooden elements were used for its arrangement. First, you are invited to familiarize yourself with the procedure for insulating concrete floors. Detailed information about each technological stage of insulation is given.

Thermal insulation of concrete and expanded clay floors

Insulating concrete floors with expanded clay does not create any special problems.

ATTENTION! Despite the fact that expanded clay has a porous structure and is a lightweight material, its thirty-centimeter layer will have quite a considerable weight. Insulation of wooden floors using this material is only possible if the ceiling is strong enough. In the case of internal ceiling lining with OSB slabs, it will be necessary to provide the slabs with additional fastening. It is made by installing sheathing, which is attached to the beams using special pins.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of a wooden bathhouse using expanded clay

The installation of the insulating “pie” can now be considered complete. The further procedure will be carried out according to the wishes of the owner of the premises. Most often, finishing flooring is laid either on the beams themselves, or on top of logs specially laid for this purpose. This is advisable if a residential attic is being built.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling using ecowool

Ecological wool is considered a completely safe material of natural origin. It has a long service life and copes quite effectively with the function of maintaining heat in the room. The material is free-flowing, so for its transportation and storage it must be pressed and packaged in consumer packaging - briquettes. For direct use, ecowool is freed from packaging and fluffed, after which it increases in volume several times. Professionals prefer to use equipment specially designed for this purpose when applying ecowool. First, the material is slightly moistened and sprayed onto the insulated surface. After this, the lathing is blown with dry material, which is pumped using a powerful compressor. This fact is the most significant disadvantage of using ecowool, since purchasing or renting equipment is not cheap. At the same time, if you plan to insulate a not too large area, for example the ceiling space of a small bathhouse, it is quite possible to carry out the work manually. The process will take a lot of time and will increase the degree of insulation consumption, but the thermal insulation will still be of high quality and will not cost too much.

The list of tips for arranging sheathing and layers of insulation against moisture and steam is the same as for mineral wool, so there is no point in repeating them again. But it is worth considering that when industrially applying ecowool, hydro- and vapor barriers are usually not used. When applying manually, you should not refuse them for greater reliability.

REFERENCE. In order to achieve maximum quality indicators when manually insulating with ecowool, it is important to correctly assess the required weight of the building material.

It is calculated using a simple formula:

m (weight of ecowool) = S (area of ​​the cell where the insulation will be placed) * L (thickness of the thermal insulation layer) * P (standard density of the insulation, for horizontal surfaces - 45 kg/m3).

After the sheathing space is filled with insulation, waterproofing and sheathing material are installed on top of it.

Insulation of the bathhouse ceiling with polypropylene foam

Foamed polypropylene, also called penofol, or foamed polyethylene - all these types of insulation materials are similar in structure, and they are installed in a similar way. The thermal insulators under consideration are very easy to install, but their thermal insulation performance is often insufficient. Because of this feature, polypropylene foam and similar materials are best used in combination with other types of insulation, for example, mineral wool.

Such a tandem can provide the most effective heat conservation in the room being finished.

Scheme of insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with foamed polypropylene

A mixture of cement and sawdust

Such insulation material has long been known and belongs to the traditional ones, which were used even before the era of modern materials for thermal insulation. In such compositions, cement is successfully replaced with clay, and straw can be used instead of sawdust. The mixture is made by mixing dry ingredients with water. The proportion is as follows: for 10 shares of sawdust you need to add 1 share of cement and the same amount of lime. The resulting dry mass is poured with 1.5 parts of water and thoroughly stirred until a thick mixture of uniform texture is obtained. The mass is laid out on the insulated surface and distributed evenly.

ATTENTION! Sawdust for preparing the mixture must be thoroughly dried, ideally for about one year.

This insulating material is characterized by minimal cost and environmental friendliness. But its thermal insulation qualities are inferior to those of mineral wool or expanded clay. The process of preparing and laying the mixture requires significant labor, and upon completion of the laying it will be necessary to seal the cracks that inevitably appear.

Finally

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse in a country house is very important. If you want to save on heating the steam room, you won’t be able to achieve this without thermal insulation. If you have limited funds, you can give preference to budget options for proper insulation, which will allow you to inexpensively make a ceiling and enjoy steaming in a bathhouse and not think about the cold that the ceiling emits.

Video about insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse with sawdust and cement