Insulating a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. How and how best to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands step by step

27.06.2020

Choosing a method of insulation

The location of the apartment and climatic conditions will help determine how to insulate the room. The south side and the top floor contribute to overheating. On the north side the sun is a rare visitor, so it is much cooler here.

Insulation methods

External insulation. Rigid insulation is installed on the outside. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh and a layer of decorative plaster. The benefit is obvious - the interior space of the room is not reduced. However, external work, especially on the upper floors, is complex and time-consuming.
Double-sided thermal insulation. The material is laid outside and inside. The solution is very labor-intensive and impractical. Essentially, you have to do the same job twice. After all, one-sided insulation is quite effective.
Internal insulation. The insulator is placed from the inside, which slightly reduces the usable area. But if you wish, you can do the work yourself.

In practice, the last option is most often chosen, since it is the simplest and most accessible. External thermal insulation is effective, but too difficult to implement.

In addition, in some cases, external insulation may require a decision from the local administration. This happens if the house is classified as an architectural monument. It is good for lower floors.

Choice of insulation

The choice of insulation materials is very wide. To navigate this diversity, you need to know what criteria to use to choose a coating.

Criterias of choice

It is optimal if it is non-hygroscopic or at least with minimal values for this indicator.
Fire safety. Still, no one is immune from emergency situations, so I would like to ensure maximum safety for myself.
Durability is important in order to insulate the room as little as possible.
Another important nuance is the safety of the material. It should not release toxic substances under any circumstances. If the manufacturer warns that this is possible when certain temperatures are exceeded, you should refuse the choice.
Biostability makes the material a reliable barrier against the formation of microorganisms and mold that are dangerous and harmful to human health.

All insulators are divided into several groups.

Roll insulation

Loose coatings produced in the form of rolled strips. For the most part, these are various wools: slag, mineral, glass. Before installation, they are cut and mounted into a prepared frame. Due to their loose structure, they can become deformed over time, losing their insulating properties. A significant plus is the low price.

Among the roll coverings there are thin foil materials, for example, penofol. They are used as an addition to the main insulation. The metallized coating reflects heat waves and prevents them from leaving the room.

Slab

Dense plates of various thicknesses. This group includes very different insulators. These are expanded polystyrene, penoplex, etc. They are easy to install and do not deform during operation.

Sprayable

Liquid polyurethane foam is applied to the base using special equipment. After it hardens, a seamless insulating layer is formed. Ecowool is laid in almost the same way using the wet method. Both insulators have minimal thermal conductivity and last for decades. The main disadvantage is the need to use special tools for installation.

Insulation instructions in 3 steps

The progress of work is determined by the condition of the premises. Before you insulate the loggia from the inside with your own hands, start with glazing - you need to install energy-efficient ones. At this stage, parapet laying work may be required. The new glazing will look more aesthetically pleasing, but it will only be a couple of degrees warmer here compared to the street.

The fact is that this space, by definition, is non-residential. This means that the walls, floor and ceiling are not able to fully conserve heat. And you need to decide how to heat the room. This can be infrared or electric heated floor. It is possible to install a heater.

Preparatory work

They start with preparation. Remove old coverings from the floor, walls and ceiling. Clean the vacant surfaces. They are examined carefully. All cracks, chips and other defects will have to be removed. They are carefully sealed with putty mixture, allowed to dry completely, and cleaned.

The joints are carefully sealed. Most inexpensive thermal insulators are hygroscopic. The moisture that gets into them accumulates and gradually destroys them and the finish. Therefore, waterproofing is necessary. The joints are glued with a special tape or coated with mastic. After this, all internal surfaces are treated with a hydrophobic and antifungal composition.

Work on laying thermal insulation is usually carried out according to the top-down principle. Let's analyze all the stages in more detail.

Ceiling insulation

The technology depends on the type of insulation, cladding, etc. In general terms, the installation instructions look like this:

We assemble the sheathing. To make it, we take a beam or a metal profile. The latter is most often chosen for subsequent installation of drywall. We fix the slats to the ceiling along the perimeter. Then we lay the timber in increments of 0.6 m.
Checking the horizontal position. Take a level and determine the plane. It must be set very accurately. Otherwise, the ceiling will turn out uneven. We correct any defects found.
We cut the heat insulator. It can be rolled or slab. In any case, we cut the fragments so that they are 3-4 mm larger than the sheathing. This way the material will lie tightly, without cold bridges. It will be better held in the structure.
Put the insulation in place. You can additionally secure the plates with suitable glue. If any cracks have formed, carefully fill them with foam.

Then you can lay a layer of penofol with the foil side down. This way it will reflect heat waves back. After this, installation of the finishing begins. This is only one of the possible options for laying thermal insulation.

For hard slabs, a slightly different technique is used. We glue the plates to the base with special glue. It is applied pointwise in the corners and center. After gluing, we additionally fix the slabs with mushroom dowels. And then we fix the penofol. We lay it with the foil layer down and seal the joints with tape.

On top of the insulation we assemble a sheathing made of metal profiles or beams, onto which we will then attach the finishing trim.

Wall insulation

One of the simplest options would be to insulate the loggia with penoplex. These are moisture-resistant boards with low thermal conductivity. High density and low weight make them much easier to install. You can choose any other suitable material. Rigid slabs are installed without sheathing, but most often it is installed. We offer step-by-step instructions for the process.

We lay and fix thin foil polyethylene foam to the base. It will perform two functions at once: it will serve as additional waterproofing and will reflect heat rays, preventing them from leaving the room. The foil layer should “look” inward.
We install a sheathing made of wooden blocks or metal profiles. The pitch of the lamellas is not 60-70 cm. We try to choose a value that is a multiple of the width of the insulation.
We cut insulation. We cut out the parts slightly larger than the cells of the sheathing so that they fit tightly into it.
We put insulation in the cells. We foam all the resulting cracks. We also foam the reverse side of the metal profile, where there are voids. Otherwise, cold bridges will remain, which will lead to the formation of condensation and gradual deterioration of the insulation.
We install a vapor barrier. This is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.

After this, you can begin decorative finishing. A wooden or metal sheathing is mounted on the walls and ceiling, to which a lining is attached. You can use wallpaper or paint as a finishing touch. In this case, additional work will be required. Sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard are fixed to the sheathing. They are primed, puttied, leveled and then wallpapered or painted.

Considering that simple fastening of the vapor barrier is not reliable enough, “mushroom” dowels are additionally installed. This is what they call fasteners with wide heads. You need five of them for each slab: in the corners and in the center.

The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. To do this, it is recommended to use vapor barrier films or foiled polyethylene foam. It will work as steam, hydro and additional thermal insulation. The foil side is turned into the room.

The vapor barrier is attached using polyurethane glue or double-sided tape. The seams between vapor barrier sheets and joints with structures are taped with metallized tape. The finishing decor is mounted on top.

Insulating the floor on the loggia

Any heat insulator is chosen, sometimes expanded clay is used. This is a bulk material with a relatively low weight. A lot of it is required, so for balconies in old houses it is better to choose a different solution. The load on the slab may be too great. performed between the joists. This is done like this:

Before installing the slabs, all holes and cracks are sealed with mounting foam, and then the surface is leveled, for example, using self-leveling cement-sand mixtures. If there is a danger of water penetrating through the “pie” of the floor, then before leveling, you can apply a layer of coating waterproofing (cement-based, etc.) to the concrete slab and the lower part of the walls (to a height of 300 mm).
We install a layer of waterproofing. You can choose a special mastic or lay down a film. In any case, we especially carefully insulate the joints of the floor and walls. The joints of the strips should be properly overlapped and secured with tape.
We expose lags. We cut the wooden blocks to size and place them on the base. Be sure to level the top edge of each part. Otherwise the floor will be uneven. We fix the logs to the base with metal corners or any other way.
We cut the heat insulator if necessary. Place it in the cells between the joists. We compact the coating so that there are no voids. The cracks can be foamed.
We lay a layer of vapor barrier. This is a thin film with small holes. We glue its joints with tape. We fix the membrane with staples.
Laying the subfloor. We screw it to the joists with self-tapping screws.

After this, you can finish the insulated room. To make everything clear, we suggest watching a video about insulating a loggia with your own hands.

It is much easier and faster to insulate the structure with polyurethane foam or ecowool. They are sprayed evenly on all surfaces. Form a dense, seamless insulating coating. Considering the size of the room, the whole process takes literally a few minutes. Unfortunately, you cannot do the work yourself. Requires special equipment. Therefore, such insulation may be too expensive.

Many residents of apartment buildings are faced with the problem of a lack of square meters. An excellent solution to this issue could be insulating the loggia yourself. This is a painstaking task that requires the performer to have certain construction skills and time. However, the finished result is worth it. A warm balcony expands the possibilities of using space, “ennobles” the living space and can become a source of pride for a home craftsman.

The need to insulate the loggia

Each apartment owner independently decides for himself how to use the additional square meters of the loggia. Some set up a storage room or workshop on the balcony, others use the room more rationally - create a “winter garden” or a separate room. An insulated loggia can be converted into a cozy place for relaxation, work, a compact gym or an area for children's creativity.

In addition, an insulated balcony solves a number of problems:

heat loss from the premises and heating costs for the apartment are reduced;
reduces the risk of mold on the walls of the balcony.

You can perform external or internal insulation. Obvious advantages of the external method:

the usable area is not “eaten up”;
simplification of interior wall decoration.

A significant advantage of internal insulation is the ability to complete the work yourself without hiring workers.

Selection of thermal insulation material

Various thermal insulation materials are used as insulation, ranging from traditional, inexpensive ones to modern high-tech ones. To insulate the loggia from the inside, it is better to use thin, lightweight materials. Thanks to their small width, you can save useful space.

Let's consider the characteristics of the main thermal insulation materials for insulating a loggia/balcony.

Foil polyethylene foam - a layer of foil is applied to one side of the polyethylene, which reflects infrared radiation and “throws” heat flows back. Insulation characteristics:

roll width - 1 m, thickness - 2-5 cm;
ease of installation - polyethylene foam can be easily cut with a knife;
laying method - butt or overlap;
thermal insulation efficiency almost doubles;
the material is used to insulate ceilings and walls.

Insulating a loggia: step-by-step instructions. Use of penofol

Mineral wool has good thermal insulation qualities and an affordable price. However, experts do not recommend using this material to insulate a loggia for a number of reasons:

poor moisture resistance - mineral wool absorbs liquid, so you will have to further strengthen the waterproofing;
when using mineral wool, natural ventilation is required - a gap must be left above the insulation, which slightly “conceals” the area of the balcony;
To cover the loggia, you will need to reinforce the wall and carry out additional measures.

Foam plastic is foamed plastic of varying densities. The bulk of the material is gas. Polystyrene foam has the following characteristics:

slab size - 1*1 m;
insulation thickness 2-10 cm;
foam density - 15 or 25 kg/sq.cm;
durability.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is a modern heat insulator that resembles polystyrene foam, but has a more durable structure and functionality. Properties of expanded polystyrene:

rectangular slabs 1200*600 mm;
thickness - 2-10 cm;
penoplex density - 35-45 kg/sq.cm;
vapor tightness;
frost resistance;
the slabs are chamfered for tighter installation;
light weight and ease of installation;
flammability class - G-1;
the material is not used in open areas where UV rays penetrate.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Photo of penoplex installation

Methods for attaching insulation

The choice of insulation method primarily depends on the heat-insulating material used and further finishing of the walls.

Insulation under putty and plaster is suitable when using penoplex or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation panels are glued to the base with tile adhesive. The plates are additionally fixed with dowel mushrooms. You can start plastering/puttying walls or ceilings the day after installing the insulation.

Laying of foil polyethylene foam occurs under the base of the frame. It does not matter how the profiles are attached - to the wall or using U-shaped fasteners. Penofol sheets are applied to the ceiling/wall of the loggia and fixed with slats. In this case, an overlap connection is acceptable, and the joining strip can be taped.

Insulation under the base of the frame is only possible when using thin insulation up to 20 mm thick. Pressing thicker insulation will affect the rigidity of the slats and fastenings

If you plan to cover the balcony with plasterboard or PVC or MDF panels, then it is advisable to lay the heat-insulating material in the cells of the frame. 15-density foam or mineral wool is used as insulation. The disadvantage of this technology is the increase in the thickness of the thermal insulation “pie”.

Options for arranging a “warm” floor

The technology for insulating the floor on a loggia is somewhat different from the thermal insulation of the canopy and ceiling. Excessive demands are placed on this element of the balcony.

There are several main options for arranging a “warm floor”:

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Below are step-by-step instructions for insulating a loggia with penoplex.

Tools and materials

To work you will need:

foam boards;
construction level, stationery knife, marker;
PVC pipes for laying cables;
container for mixing glue;
construction mixer;
trowel;
polyurethane foam;
mounting gun;
grater for grinding thermal insulation sheets;
plastic flat trowel for grouting the floor;
metal grid;
sand concrete M300 coarse-grained;
polyurethane glue.

Insulating a loggia: step-by-step instructions. Photo - diagram of a thermal insulation “pie”.

Preparatory work

First of all, you need to install energy-saving plastic windows on the loggia. There is no point in saving on glazing - it is better to choose double-glazed windows and fittings from companies that have proven themselves well in the window market.

If high-quality windows are already installed on the balcony, then you can move on to insulating the balcony.

Preparatory activities:

Ceiling insulation

Installation of heat insulator on walls and parapet

Insulating the loggia floor with penoplex: step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the stages of creating a “warm floor” using penoplex and cement-sand screed:

If it is necessary to install a supporting frame, it is better to use a galvanized metal profile. Unlike wood, it does not rot and is not heavy.
Thermal insulation work should be carried out in dry weather. Many adhesive mixtures and primers have specific features for use in conditions of high humidity.
The cracks in the loggia are treated with foam that is resistant to low temperatures.
The wood used must be dried and then treated with anti-fire and rotting agents.

Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Video.

This material should be of interest to all apartment owners who have a separate balcony or loggia. In this article I want to talk about how simply insulating a balcony with your own hands will help make it a full-fledged part of your apartment. If you are tired of using your balcony exclusively for storing old unnecessary things, read the article and find out how to properly insulate it.

What is the difference between a balcony and a loggia

To avoid any confusion in the future, I first want to explain the difference between a loggia and a balcony:

The balcony always protrudes forward, beyond the vertical walls of the building. Interfloor concrete slabs, which are cantilevered to the facade of the house, serve as the floor and ceiling of the balconies. Vertical fencing (parapet) is usually made in the form of a welded metal structure, which is installed in front and on the sides of the balcony;

The loggia is always recessed into the façade. Structurally, it is a continuation of the living space, but is separated from it by a solid outer wall with a balcony door. The floor and ceiling for the loggia are interfloor ceilings, and the side walls are made of monolithic concrete or brickwork. The parapet on the loggia is installed only along the front part, and can be made of welded metal or light building materials (foam concrete blocks, hollow bricks, etc.).

Why do you need to insulate a loggia?

In old multi-storey buildings, apartments with balconies and loggias were rented to residents without any glazing. This means that snow and rain can freely fall there, and the air temperature throughout the year remains the same as outside.

Apartments in modern new buildings are most often rented with glazed balconies. Glazing helps protect it from rain and snow, but does not protect it from cold, wind and dampness. Therefore, the temperature and humidity on a glazed but uninsulated balcony are not very different from the weather outside.

I can say from personal experience that simultaneous glazing and insulation of balconies with your own hands allows you to solve several housing issues at once:

An insulated and glazed loggia can be used not just as a storage room for unnecessary rubbish, but as a full-fledged room in your apartment. Moreover, when paying for utilities, you still pay for it as for living space;

If electricity and central heating are supplied, it can be equipped with a study, a small home workshop, a children's playroom, and even your own greenhouse or winter garden;
If you want to increase the usable area of your living room or bedroom, and are ready to sacrifice a balcony for this, then I suggest doing the following:

First of all, we insulate the balcony with high quality and install a panoramic window with double-glazed windows;
Next, we supply centralized or autonomous heating from the apartment;
We dismantle the old window block and balcony door;
Now all that remains is to combine your room and balcony into a single living space.

The following proposal should be of interest to owners of one-room apartments.

If the layout of your home allows, then using a balcony or loggia, it’s easy to turn a one-room apartment into a two-room one:

First of all, you need to carefully insulate the loggia and install double-glazed windows;
Then connect heating, sewerage and water supply pipes to the loggia;
Install a sink, plumbing fixtures and a minimum set of kitchen appliances;
In the former kitchen, equip a living room, children's room or.

Even if you do not plan to convert the balcony into a living room, insulating it will help to significantly reduce heat losses in your apartment. Firstly, this will make the house much warmer in winter, and secondly, it will reduce monthly heating and air conditioning costs.

Selection of thermal insulation materials

To insulate balconies, it is best to use rigid thermal insulation materials based on polymers, or roll insulation based on mineral wool.

Both insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages, so below I will talk about their main qualities in more detail:

Polystyrene foam is a rigid sheet insulation material made from polystyrene foam granules welded together.

It is characterized by the following characteristics:

Sheets of construction foam usually have a size of 1000x1000 mm, and can have a thickness from 10 to 150 mm;
They have sufficient rigidity, have very low thermal conductivity, and are absolutely impervious to air and water vapor;
Foam plastic is considered the cheapest insulation, since its price is about 150-200 rubles per sheet measuring 1000x1000x50 mm.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS or Penoplex) has similar performance properties, but has a much higher rigidity:

Penoplex sheets can withstand significant weight loads, so I recommend using it for floor insulation;
EPS and foam are destroyed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, they should not be left in direct sunlight for a long time;
For the same reason, it is advisable to carry out finishing work no later than a week after installing the insulation.

Foiled polyethylene foam (Penofol) is sold in rolls 1000 mm wide and 3 to 12 mm thick. Penofol is most often used as an auxiliary heat and waterproofing material. It is laid in the form of a layer between the main insulation and the internal decorative lining.

Penofol in a thermal insulation coating performs three important functions at once:

Foamed polyethylene itself has low thermal conductivity, so it serves as additional insulation;
A thin mirror film of aluminum foil reflects the infrared spectrum of thermal radiation, therefore returning radiant heat from the radiators back to the loggia;
Polyethylene film does not allow water vapor to pass through at all, so warm, moist air from the room cannot penetrate the thickness of the main insulation. This protects it from condensation.

Basalt or stone mineral wool is a soft fibrous insulation that is made from intertwined thin fibers of molten rocks.

Basalt wool is considered a universal type of insulation, since it has practically no restrictions on its use in construction:

Mineral wool is sold in rolls or in the form of rigid slabs with a thickness of 20 to 100 mm;
It has a low heat transfer coefficient, does not burn at all, is not susceptible to mold, and has an unlimited service life;
Stone wool allows air and water vapor to pass through well, but when wet, its thermal insulation properties deteriorate significantly;
To prevent the formation of condensation inside the insulation, mineral wool must be installed in combination with a waterproofing layer.

In addition to stone wool, glass wool is also commercially available, which is made from thin strands of molten glass. Its fibers are very fragile and break easily, so after creasing, such cotton wool does not restore its shape. I do not recommend using it for insulating residential premises, because small glass fibers can penetrate human skin and cause severe irritation.

Preparing tools

To insulate a balcony with your own hands, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To drill holes in concrete, you will need an electric hammer drill and a set of drills with a diameter of 6 to 12 mm;
Holes in brick walls can be drilled using an impact drill. To do this, you will need a set of drills with a Pobedit tip with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
During the work you will need to tighten a large number of screws. Therefore, I recommend using a cordless screwdriver with PH2 and PZ2 interchangeable bits;
It is more convenient to cut the bars for installing the sheathing using an electric cutting machine, but if you don’t have one, you can use a regular hand hacksaw for wood;

To cut insulation and cut facing panels, you will need a sharp construction knife with a set of interchangeable blades;
As for hand tools, you will also need two hammers weighing 200 g and 400 g;
Two flat and one shaped screwdriver;
Small and large pliers or pliers;
Construction level, rope plumb line, metal ruler and tape measure at least 3 m long;
Polyurethane foam in large metal containers;
In addition to the insulation, the materials you need to purchase are dry wooden blocks for making a load-bearing one, with a cross-section of 60x60 mm;

Adhesive for insulation. It is sold in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly on the job site;
Wide aluminum metallized tape for ventilation systems;
Plastic dowels with wide washers for attaching insulation. People often call them umbrellas or parachutes;
Depending on your preferences, for the interior decoration of the balcony you can use moisture-resistant plasterboard, plastic siding panels or clapboard boards. In my opinion, plastic siding is best suited for these purposes..

At night and during the day, significant changes in air temperature can be observed on an insulated balcony, which in turn can lead to the formation of condensation on the walls and ceiling. Therefore, for interior finishing it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant and frost-resistant materials.

Insulation process

Stage 1: strengthening the balcony parapet

Insulating a balcony from the inside should begin with installing windows, but in some cases this may cause problems. During the construction of multi-storey buildings, balcony parapets are usually made in the form of a light metal fence welded from a corner and a steel square. It is unsafe to install heavy double-chamber balcony glazing on such a parapet, so before installing new windows, it needs to be strengthened.

I can suggest three ways to strengthen the parapet:

To strengthen a strong and reliable balcony fence in new houses, you can use a simpler method:

Along the entire perimeter of the parapet, weld additional longitudinal beams from a profile pipe with a section of 40x20 mm, or from a steel angle with a section of 40x40 mm;
Weld brackets with mounting plates made of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm to the longitudinal beams on each side. Each plate should have two holes with a diameter of 12 mm;
The existing metal structure is additionally secured at several points to the concrete floor slab, as well as to the facade of the building or to the side walls of the loggia. For fastening you need to use expansion anchor bolts;
Tie all the metal rods of the railing together with a truss structure made from a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 mm, or a profile pipe 20x20 mm. Weld the extreme ends of the truss to the mounting brackets;
After installing the glazing, the outside of the parapet can be covered with decorative plastic siding panels.

In old houses built during the Soviet period, the parapet may be unreliable and very flimsy.

From inside the balcony, build a new parapet from foam concrete blocks or hollow baked bricks;
In the places where the new parapet adjoins the facade of the house or the side walls of the loggia, install anchor embedded structures, at least 3 pieces. by height;
Attach a common railing from a wide board 35-40 mm thick on top. It must completely cover both parapets, and protrude outward and inward of the balcony by at least 50 mm on each side;
An old metal fence, covered with plastic siding panels on the outside for beauty.

If the fencing of your balcony is in disrepair, it is better to immediately dismantle it and install a new parapet in its place.

To do this you can use the following method:

Along the perimeter of the balcony floor slab, lay a new parapet made of hollow bricks or foam concrete blocks;
After each row of foam concrete blocks, or after every third row of bricks, along the entire perimeter of the parapet, reinforcing strapping made of metal mesh must be laid into the masonry;
The free ends of the strapping must be welded to the anchor brackets on the facade of the house or on the side walls of the loggia;
Fix a wide railing board on top of the end of the parapet so that it protrudes outside and inside the balcony by about 50 mm;
The outside of the brick parapet must be plastered using reinforcing fiberglass mesh and painted with acrylic facade paint in any suitable color.

Installation of metal-plastic double-glazed windows requires certain knowledge and practical skills, so I recommend entrusting such work to qualified specialists in this matter. Firstly, it is more reliable and safe, and secondly, they provide a guarantee for their work. In addition, when ordering windows with installation, you can get a discount on installation work.

Stage 2: installation of flooring

Balcony floor slabs usually have a small thickness, so before installing the finished floor covering, it must be properly insulated.

Floor insulation can be done with foam panels, sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or mineral wool slabs.

The general principle of using these materials is approximately the same, so I will tell you how to do this using foam sheets as an example:

The concrete floor slab must be cleaned of construction debris, dried well, and covered with two layers of heated rubber-bitumen mastic;

If you use mineral wool as insulation, then for waterproofing you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane or perforated polyethylene film on the slab;
Along the balcony, fasten wooden blocks (joists) with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm to the floor. The outer bars must be laid close to the parapet and the wall in the apartment, and a distance of 300-400 mm must be maintained between the middle bars;

In the spaces between the bars, lay foam panels tightly without gaps. If there are small gaps between the foam sheets, they need to be filled with polyurethane foam;
Lay waterproofing made of foil-foamed polyethylene (Penofol) on top of the insulation and longitudinal beams;

Penofol must be laid so that its foil side faces up, and its edges should bend onto the side walls, 60-100 mm on each side;
To ensure a ventilation gap between the finished floor and Penofol, wooden counter slats with a thickness of 15-20 mm must be nailed to the longitudinal bars;
A finished floor covering can be installed on top of the counter slats. To install a wooden floor on a balcony, you need to use a tongue-and-groove floorboard 40 mm thick.
The floorboards need to be laid across the balcony and secured to the joists using galvanized self-tapping screws.

If you want to lay linoleum or laminate on the balcony, then first you need to arrange the subfloor. To do this, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 20 mm must be secured to the longitudinal bars. After this, the subfloor must be sanded and a finishing floor covering laid.

Stage 3: thermal insulation of parapet and side walls

For normal thermal insulation of a balcony and loggia, it is very important to properly insulate the parapet and side walls, because they are in direct contact with cold air from the street. The solid wall between the apartment and the loggia does not need to be insulated so that it freely passes heat from the heated room to the loggia.

Below is a step-by-step instruction in which I will talk about insulating walls and balcony parapets using polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

Before starting work, all concrete and brick surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic penetrating primer. It fills the open pores between the particles of the material and protects the wall from the formation of mold under the insulation;

Mount a supporting frame on the wall to secure the finishing interior cladding. It is made in the form of a lathing from vertical bars with a section of 60x60 or 75x75 mm.
On the walls, the bars should be placed vertically, from the floor to the ceiling. The outer bars are installed at the corners of the balcony, and the intermediate ones are attached to the side walls, at a distance of 300-400 mm from each other.
It is more convenient to make the supporting frame for the parapet from three or four horizontal bars. The lower beam must be secured to the parapet at floor level, and the upper beam must be secured under the railing board. Mount one or two intermediate beams at an equal distance between the upper and lower beams;

When making a supporting frame, I advise you to lay electrical cables, heating pipes or other hidden communications along the walls in advance;
If you plan to insulate your balcony with polystyrene foam, then it needs to be cut into separate slabs. The width of each tile should be such that it fits tightly between two adjacent bars of the supporting frame;
Next you need to prepare the adhesive solution. Apply several large dots of glue onto a sheet of foam plastic and press it against the wall in the space between the frame bars;
Thus, you need to glue foam plastic to all walls and the balcony parapet. If large gaps and cracks remain in some places, they must be filled with foam.;

Insulating walls with mineral wool has some differences:

Before installing the supporting frame, waterproofing must be fixed to the wall from a vapor-permeable membrane;
To attach mineral wool, you need to use plastic dowels instead of glue., better known as "umbrellas".

After installing the foam or mineral wool, you need to attach Penofol to the wooden blocks with the foil side inside the balcony. To do this, it is convenient to use a furniture or construction stapler;
Wooden counter slats with a thickness of 20 mm must be fixed on top of the Penofol. They will be used to fasten the internal lining;

If you plan to use plasterboard to finish the walls and ceiling, then the counter slats should be mounted vertically, parallel to the sheathing bars;
To install lining boards or plastic siding, the counter slats must be positioned horizontally, in four or five rows. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm;
To complete everything, you will need to finish the walls and parapet, and install a wooden or plastic plinth at the junction of each wall and floor.

When making a supporting frame for finishing sheathing, some craftsmen use a metal profile for drywall. At first glance, this option may seem simpler, but I do not recommend doing so. The fact is that metal has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, therefore, at the installation site of metal profiles, cold bridges are formed in the wall. They worsen the thermal insulation of the balcony and can cause condensation to form in the insulation layer.

Stage 4: insulation of the ceiling

If you plan to install a separate heating system on the balcony, then we must not forget that warm air from the radiators always rushes upward. In order not to heat your neighbor’s balcony from the top floor, I advise you to pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

The gap between the canopy and the floor slab must be filled with foam.

The concrete slab should be treated twice with a water-based antiseptic penetrating primer.;
Before installing the heat-insulating material, a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane must be fixed to the ceiling. It is needed to prevent moisture from the ceiling from penetrating into the insulation;
Fix longitudinal wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60x60 mm on top of the waterproofing. The two outer bars should be located in the very corners of the ceiling, and intermediate bars should be installed between them in increments of 300-400 mm;

The insulation, cut to width, must be laid between the bars. It cannot be glued to the waterproof membrane, so for fastening you need to use plastic “umbrella” dowels;
To fill the gaps between the foam plates, you must also use polyurethane foam;
If warm, humid air from the room gets inside the insulation, condensation will form there. To prevent this from happening, a vapor barrier made of foiled polyethylene foam must be nailed to the bars on top of the insulation;
Penofol must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that its edges fall onto each wall by at least 80-100 mm;

To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, all joints of panels and mounting brackets from the stapler must be glued with metallized aluminum tape;
Further finishing of the ceiling is carried out in exactly the same way as described in the previous section (points 11-14):

Nail longitudinal or transverse counter slats to the ceiling bars;
Attach the finishing decorative sheathing (plasterboard, lining or siding panels) from below;
Carefully trim the hanging remains of Penofol;
Install a decorative cornice or plinth along the perimeter of the ceiling.

Even with full compliance with the insulation technology, condensation can form inside the thermal insulation sheathing. To protect wood from rotting and mold, it is important to follow two simple rules. Firstly, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation before installation. Secondly, between the finishing sheathing and the insulation, always leave a ventilation gap 15-20 mm wide.

Conclusion

After reading this article, you can easily insulate any balcony or loggia in a city apartment yourself. A visual guide to insulating balconies can be seen in the video in this article. I suggest discussing all your questions and wishes below in the comment form.

Using the balcony all year round will increase the usable area of the apartment. Creating a comfortable microclimate is possible if you take into account the rules and recommendations of experts on insulating a balcony with your own hands. In our article we will look at the repair using the example of a loggia with the following dimensions: 7.5 m in length, 1.16 in width and 2.9 in height. Step-by-step instructions and photographs in progress. The renovation took 2 weeks, the budget was 40 thousand rubles, the year of construction was 2013.

Using the example of Moscow
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Necessary tool

Screwdriver and electric drill;
Construction stapler, level;
Scissors, knife;
Marker, laser tape measure;
Hammer;
Putty knife;
Gas-burner;
A special gun for glue or polyurethane foam;
Containers for mixing components;
Scotch tape (painting and reinforced);
Rags, sponges, etc.;
Drill attachments that can be used to stir construction mixtures.

Materials (what to buy)

Structures for glazing of premises;
Material for organizing the waterproofing layer (foamed polyethylene);
Insulation (mineral wool 70 mm thick);
Wooden logs to level the floor and create a reliable foundation (50x50);
Sheets of plywood (10 mm);
Glue, metal tape;
Tile for wall cladding in two shades;
Laminate (thickness 12 mm).

Insulation instructions using a live example

Let's consider a simple repair option that most apartment owners resort to:

1. Preparing the balcony before renovation

On the eve of glazing, you need to carefully check the space and eliminate chips, cracks and gaps.

Depending on the size of the flaw, polyurethane mastic, polyurethane foam, and sealants are used. To organize a convenient seal, use a special gun designed for applying polyurethane foam.

The space is insulated with double-glazed windows made from PVC profiles.

Glazing a loggia, or replacing old windows with new double-glazed windows is a mandatory stage of work to protect the space from heat loss.

Other materials for glazing are also used: wood, aluminum and metal-plastic. Elements of window frames must be treated with paint and antiseptic substances. The wooden structure of the windows is not airtight, has a low level of thermal insulation and an inconvenient opening mechanism. Aluminum windows are a durable option, they are comfortable and reliable, but the level of heat loss is quite high.

It is better to give preference to PVC window frames, which also contain aluminum, but the internal formwork does not consist of metal.

PVC windows are resistant to moisture and sudden temperature changes. Such frames are easy to use, sealed and have a low level of thermal conductivity.

Masking cables in the wall for connecting an air conditioner.

2. Raising the floor level and thermal insulation

Waterproofing the floor with penofol.

Most often, the materials at the base of the floor and walls are concrete and brick, which strongly absorb moisture and vapor. In order for the heat insulator to retain its properties, a waterproofing layer should be installed. Instead of penofol for waterproofing, you can choose roofing felt or special impregnation. Penofol is laid overlapping, the sheets are connected to each other using a gas burner.

Creating a frame from slats (50x50).

Floor lathing for subsequent installation of mineral wool.

Wooden logs are used for the construction of the sheathing. The frame elements are fixed together with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. The pitch of the slats directly depends on the thermal insulation material.

Typically, the distance between the slats is 50 cm, however, to lay a soft heat insulator, the pitch of the frame elements should be reduced.

In order to eliminate cold bridges in the structure, you need to carefully organize thermal insulation around the perimeter. We place mineral wool between the elements of the mounted frame. We fill the joints with scraps of heat insulation and polyurethane foam.

Mineral wool laid in the cells of the sheathing on the floor.

During the work, a mistake was made - due to the different dimensions of the heat insulator (70 mm) and the height of the bars (50 mm), spacers had to be made.

Raising the floor to the threshold level - 20 cm.

Installation of plywood sheets on the sheathing frame.

When laying, the plywood sagged 10 mm, so it is better to choose more durable sheets, for example 20 mm chipboard or OSB.

3. Wall insulation and window sill installation

We begin the construction of a frame to create a window sill from metal elements. This frame will allow you to insulate a parapet made of gas blocks.

We do the electrical installation for lamps and other devices in advance.

We fill the metal frame with insulation, after which we sheathe the gypsum board structure.

Proper insulation of the parapet on the advice of experts:

Impregnation with special hydrophobic solutions;
Fixing penofol using a construction stapler, aluminum tape, or glue;
Filling joints;
Installation of the second layer of thermal insulation;
Vapor barrier. A special membrane is suitable for organizing the layer.

Then we protect the other walls of the room from body loss. To create a reliable glazing structure for a loggia, insulating the parapet and floor is not enough. Basically, a balcony parapet is made from a material with good strength and thermal insulation (foam blocks, gas blocks), but such a fence does not protect the insulation from moisture.

Mineral wool was also chosen for thermal insulation of other walls.

In addition to mineral wool, other types of insulation will also fit in its place: extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), foil-coated polyethylene (penofol), polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam (PPU). The basis of all of the listed heat insulators are polymers, which are treated with foam compounds.

The insulated parapet is sheathed with gypsum boards.

Covering the gypsum board base with ceramic tiles.

We ensure the evenness of the tile laying using special elements - crosses.

Alternative types of finishing are: PVC panels, wooden lining, wallpaper, block house.

In this example, the ceiling surface was not insulated. On the one hand, the apartment is located on an intermediate floor (11 out of 19) and there is no direct threat of exposure to precipitation, however, heat loss will occur through the floor slab, even if the neighbors above have a well-insulated floor.

If we are talking about insulating the loggia of the upper floor, in this case the ceiling slab can be protected by installing a roof. The canopy is constructed with a slope to allow rainwater and snow to drain away.

4. Installation and connection of sockets

We install a socket with a light control function.

To install a socket in the wall, you need to drill a hole.

5. Finishing the room

We cover the floor with laminate and the walls with tiles. Flush joining was not successful as a result of the work.

In order to compensate for the deflection of thin plywood, we choose a laminate with a thickness of 12 mm.

The shortcomings of the repair in a real example are the lack of finishing coating.

A small piece of ceramic tile is missing.

There were also not enough tiles.

In this corner with finishing flaws, a cabinet is planned, which should hide most of the visible defects.

In order to avoid a shortage of material, you should think about everything in as much detail as possible on the eve of work, drawing up a diagram based on the actual dimensions of the room. It is better to purchase the material with some reserve.

We decorate the window sill with ceramic tiles.

Installation of plinth on the loggia.

Trimming the threshold with tiles.

When raising the floor to the level of the threshold, it is better to use one material in the finishing, so the surfaces will be more harmoniously combined with each other.

During the repair process, a gap formed between the window sill and the glazing structure, to eliminate which it is necessary to use special internal corners.

The photo shows a sample of the outer corner that was purchased by mistake.

The result of masking the gap with the outer corner.

The room after laying tiles, laminate and creating a black stretch ceiling with five spotlights.

In the future, a cabinet will be installed in this part of the balcony.

1. Advice from an experienced specialist

A range of insulators used to create a warm space on the balcony. Features of various insulation materials. Practical recommendations for creating a reliable design.

2. Master class on installing a waterproofing layer

Details of installing waterproofing on the balcony. Laying ceramic tiles.

Most apartment owners use the balcony as a place to store rarely used items. If you want to get additional living space and turn it into a place to relax, a flower garden or an office, you can do this without involving specialists. We will describe in detail how to reliably insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands.

Which thermal insulator is better to use?

Read also: How to insulate a private house with your own hands: roof, walls and foundation, description of thermal insulation materials offered on the market (Photo & Video) + Reviews

To decorate the balcony, you can use both roll and tile materials that provide reliable thermal insulation:

Styrofoam: inexpensive tile material, which has fairly high thermal insulation properties, has two significant drawbacks; the first is the large thickness of the sheets; when using it, the already small area of the balcony will be significantly reduced; the second disadvantage is the high fire hazard; to ignite it, a lighted cigarette accidentally thrown from the top floor is enough; therefore, for balcony cladding, purchase G2 class material that does not support self-combustion
penoplex(extruded polystyrene foam): the composition of this material is similar to polystyrene foam, but due to a special production method with equal thermal insulation properties, it has a smaller thickness and greater mechanical strength; however, the cost of penoplex is higher; since the material has a low water absorption coefficient, the balcony will need to be regularly ventilated to avoid condensation; We’ll tell you below how to insulate a balcony with penoplex from the inside.
"Penofol": foamed polyethylene, protected on both sides with aluminum foil, which simultaneously serves as wind and moisture protection; a significant plus is the minimum thickness; for insulation, it is enough to use a material a few millimeters thick; “Izolon”, “Penolon”, “Teplofol”, “Energofol” have similar composition and properties; disadvantage - high price
mineral wool(glass, slag or basalt wool): the undoubted advantage of all these materials is their high heat-insulating properties; some experts believe that the increased moisture permeability of the material in the case of insulating a balcony is only a plus - by absorbing excess moisture well, the material will protect the room from the accumulation of condensation on windows and walls; however, over time, mold can form in mineral wool, so it must be reliably protected from moisture penetration on both sides using hydro- and vapor barrier

It is undesirable to use thermal insulation materials that have a significant mass (for example, brick) for insulating balconies. After all, the load-bearing capacity of a balcony slab is limited. If there is excessive load, such a structure simply may not withstand the additional weight.

The use of expanded clay for floor screed is also not recommended. Its significant disadvantage is its ability to absorb moisture. As a result, its mass increases significantly.

Required materials

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Using penoplex

To finish the balcony you will need the following materials:

gas silicate blocks 80-100 mm wide for the construction of a parapet
glue cement-based for their installation
slab or roll insulation
wooden slats for the manufacture of lathing and installation of roll insulation; their thickness is selected so that it is equal to the width of the heat insulator
self-tapping screws for installation of lathing with a diameter of 3.5-4.8 mm
when using sheet material (penoplex or polystyrene foam) as insulation, special glue for attaching them
polyethylene film or membrane material to create hydro- and vapor barrier
polyurethane foam, mastic (for example, “Germabutyl”, “Germaflex” on a rubber base) or silicone sealant for sealing joints and cracks

Where to begin? Inspection and repair of balcony slabs

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The condition of balcony slabs is not always satisfactory - over time they may partially collapse. Therefore, before you start insulating the balcony, you should check how strong and reliable its base is.

Minor and medium repairs can be carried out independently. If significant cracks appear, or even more so, exposed reinforcement, the collapse of fragments of the slab, or its separation from the wall, you should call specialists.

Remember that major or emergency repairs should only be done by qualified installers from the management company. If the reinforcement is severely corroded, it may be necessary to reinforce it with steel beams. In case of severe damage, the balcony slab can be completely cut off.

To restore damaged areas of concrete:

Everything unnecessary is removed from the balcony, and all debris, as well as the remains of loose concrete, are completely removed
If the reinforcement is exposed, it is cleaned of rust. Reinforcing mesh is laid on top. To prevent it from rusting over time, it must be completely buried in concrete. To do this, you need to leave a gap between it and the plate.
Formwork is placed around the perimeter of the balcony slab
After pouring the concrete mortar, the screed is ironed - sprinkled with dry cement, then rubbed into the undried mortar
To protect against moisture from below, the balcony slab is primed and then plastered. Galvanized steel ebb is mounted on the sides

Read also: [Instructions] Do-it-yourself laminate on a wooden floor: a complete description of the process. Laying schemes, what materials should be used (Photo & Video) + Reviews

Pouring floor screed on the balcony

After reconstruction of the slab, it is advisable to waterproof it. For these purposes, roll materials or bitumen are used. Modern waterproofing materials include penetrating impregnation of the “Penotron” type. It is better to apply it in 2 layers.

The balcony railing may also require repairs. New structural elements in the form of profile pipes are attached to anchors or by welding.

Choice of glazing methods

Read also: What to do if plastic windows in a house or apartment sweat? Causes of condensation. Ways to solve this problem (Photo & Video) + Reviews

If your balcony has conventional single-chamber double-glazed windows, they should be replaced. Otherwise, you will waste a significant part of the energy resources spent on heating the room. A warm balcony requires 2- or 3-chamber double-glazed windows. In the Far North they can have 5 chambers.

Glazing a balcony is more complicated than conventional installation of double-glazed windows. In this case, installation of additional components is required. Therefore, be sure to invite proven, highly qualified professionals.

It is not advisable to use wooden double-glazed windows for glazing. Due to the accumulated condensation, they will begin to rot over time. Plus, the weight of such structures saturated with water will be significant. If for some reason you decide to go with wooden products, do not forget to regularly treat them with an antiseptic and paint them.

The use of the latest technologies - glazing using I- or K-glasses - will help reduce heat loss by 30%. The first option - I-glass with a multilayer coating, which includes a small percentage of silver - is capable of reflecting up to 90% of the outgoing heat. Since such surfaces can be easily scratched, they are installed with a coating inside the room.

Oxide of non-ferrous metals is applied to K-glass, due to which heat is reflected from the batteries into the room. This type of coating is less susceptible to damage. Although the prices for both glass options are the same, the degree of heat reflection in K-glass is less and is 30%.

Read also: Plastic windows in a wooden house: description of the main characteristics, how to install it yourself, photo and video instructions

A low-quality profile may turn yellow over time, so pay special attention to its quality certificates. Choose profile systems from trusted manufacturers. If you want your double-glazed windows to last longer, don’t skimp on fittings either.

A more economical method of sealing windows is conventional polyurethane foam. But it will be better if all the cracks are sealed with a sealant that has water-repellent properties. There is no point in refusing to install flashings - they not only look decorative, but also protect the room from drafts.

You can order blinds or coating with a special light-proof film for your balcony windows. It will protect the premises from prying eyes.

Warming the balcony in stages

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It is necessary to cover not only the walls with thermal insulation, but also the floor and ceiling, otherwise the insulation will simply lose its meaning. After all, reinforced concrete slabs freeze very much in the cold season.

Preparatory work

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Before starting work, carefully inspect the balcony for cracks. If you find them, carefully fill them with sealant or foam. Their excess must be cut off. After all, when installing the sheathing, they will interfere with its alignment.

To avoid having to wash dusty, dirty windows after completing the repair, attach plastic film to them. If you plan to lay communications (electrical wiring, sockets, air conditioning pipes) on the balcony, it is more convenient to do this in advance.

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Both foam and aerated concrete can reliably store heat, which is why they are often used to insulate balconies or loggias. However, since aerated concrete is capable of absorbing water, it is better to focus on foam blocks. Their air cells are completely closed from moisture penetration.

When using aerated concrete, additional finishing will be required to protect it from rain and snow.

If there are significant differences in height or potholes on the concrete slab, it is leveled with cement mortar
Work on laying foam blocks begins a week after the concrete has gained sufficient strength.
If free space allows, it is better not to remove the metal fence. You can gain 15-20 cm of usable area by strengthening the masonry with reinforcement with thick metal rods
With the help of reinforcement, the parapet must also be additionally attached to the walls of the house. It is walled up between rows of foam blocks
It is better to do the masonry not with ordinary concrete mortar, but with a special glue designed for cellular blocks. It will help reduce the thickness of the seam to 3 mm, protect against loss of mortar and the appearance of cold bridges. Its cost is fully compensated by reducing the thickness of the seams
To lay out the first row, the glue must be diluted a little thicker - so that the spatula installed in it does not fall on its side
The place for masonry is marked so that the center of the bricks falls on the attachment points of the window frame, that is, the distance from it to the edge of the balcony slab is 5 cm
To save space at the junction with the parapet, the blocks are filed
The wall must be positioned strictly vertically. Therefore, the location of each row must be verified with a building level

When laying window frames on foam blocks, double-glazed windows must be additionally secured to the walls of the building using a channel. Otherwise, under strong wind loads, the double-glazed windows may fall down.

Insulation of walls and ceilings

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How to properly insulate a regular or brick balcony?

It is better to start installing insulation from the top, from the ceiling:

The waterproofing film is laid first so that overlaps are formed. The strips must be fastened together with construction tape or a stapler. It is also necessary to make an overlap of 15 cm on the walls
When laying roll insulation, preliminary installation of wooden sheathing will be required. Sheet insulation can be attached directly to the glue
Since the sheathing will bear the main load (it must support the weight of the insulation, as well as the facing material), wooden blocks should be secured to the ceiling with self-tapping screws of sufficient length
To prevent the sheathing slats from deforming during temperature changes, leave a gap of 5-10 mm between them and the walls. It is mounted to the ceiling using self-tapping screws. To do this, holes are pre-prepared in it.
Plates or rolled material must be laid tightly, without gaps. The sheathing pitch should be slightly larger (10 millimeters) than the size of the insulation sheets. Otherwise you will not be able to lay the material evenly
A more reliable option is to combine penoplex with penofol with an air gap between them measuring 2 cm
All gaps between the insulation boards are filled with foam
The next layer is a vapor barrier made of polyethylene film or special membrane materials. There is no need to use it only if foil materials are used for insulation
Next, a second layer of 10 mm sheathing is laid, onto which the finishing material will be attached. This gap will serve as additional protection against condensation accumulation.
Even moisture-resistant drywall on a balcony can warp over time. Therefore, use gypsum boards for sheathing. Moreover, they cost no more than drywall. You can also sheathe the inside of the balcony with plywood or clapboard
Installing insulation on walls is not much different from installing insulation on the ceiling

Floor insulation

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Insulating the balcony from the inside

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