Insulation of armored belt. Insulation of an armored belt on an open veranda Insulation of an armored belt after pouring

Insulation of armored belt on open veranda. In this article we will tell you how to insulate an armored belt outside the walls of a house. We have open verandas on each side of the house. One veranda is visible in the photo. Since when building a house from gas silicate blocks, an armopoy is required, we made it in the form of a monolithic continuous strip along the entire perimeter of the building. We lived through the first winter without completely insulating all the cold bridges. because The cold weather has already set in and all insulation work has been stopped. Over the next summer, we not only insulated the base, but also insulated the armored belt that runs along the open veranda.

How to properly insulate a monolithic reinforced belt on an open veranda (outside the house)

To cut off the cold bridge at the entrance to the room - and with the cold bridge in in this case is part of a reinforced monolithic belt located above the open veranda - it must be properly insulated. Before starting work, we carefully cleaned the reinforced concrete armored belt from construction debris, dust and dirt accumulated over the year with a stiff metal brush. Detected remains of masonry mortar or other large irregularities were preliminarily beaten off. A hammer or a sturdy scraper work well for this purpose. Then these places were also cleaned with a wire brush. After cleaning, we coated the entire insulated area with primer. For this work, “Universal soil for internal and external works"or any other primer and a stiff brush for facade works.
We used sheets as insulation in the packaging. extruded polystyrene foam(EPS) "TechnoNikol" 30 mm thick - that's enough. EPPS - thermal insulation material, which does not rot, does not swell or get wet, does not shrink, and is durable. Manufacturers of extruded polystyrene foam recommend it for insulating foundations, plinths, blind areas, floors, flat roofs and other designs. To isolate the cold bridge, it is enough to insulate the armored belt at a distance of up to 1 meter from the entrance to the house. This insulation is sufficient to prevent heat loss at this point. However, for aesthetic purposes, we insulated reinforced belt along the entire length: because it is visible both from the veranda and from the street, so we decided to make it the same size (the same thickness) on all sides. In order to purchase required quantity EPS, it is necessary to calculate the insulation area. You will also need a composition for reinforcing and fastening EPS boards to reinforced concrete beam, which is also an armored belt. We used "Glue-114" for thermal insulation boards from expanded polystyrene. Rules for use and the required amount of glue can also be calculated using the instructions on the package. And the last thing you need:

• mesh for reinforcement - its area should exceed the insulation area by 2.3 times;
• “mushrooms” for attaching the insulation to the armored belt.

Aerated concrete is an excellent alternative to brick. However, unfortunately, the strength indicator of aerated concrete blocks is much lower. The material does not hold fasteners on its surface well.

Masonry made of aerated concrete blocks has its own characteristics:

1. The construction of walls must be carried out on a reliable foundation.
2. During work, it is necessary to regularly check the evenness of the structure.
3. Along the entire perimeter of the building, the walls should be reinforced with a reinforced belt made of reinforced concrete.

When conducting construction work with violation technological rules Cracking of blocks may occur under the influence of roof pressure.

The meaning of the armored belt

Reinforced belt is called monolithic design located around the entire perimeter of the building. The armored belt protects the walls of the house from destruction and deformation under the influence of loads. Strengthening technology wall surface the object involves laying a unloading belt between the floors of each floor and in the place of roofing.

To ensure the functionality of the armored belt, its structure must be:

1. Continuous.
2. In a ring style.
3. Closed.

Main components of the armored belt:

• Reinforcement frame.
• Concrete mixture.
• Formwork or blocks.

The purpose of the design is:

• In the distribution of the load-bearing load from additional floors or roofs on the walls in order to give them strength.
• To protect the foundation and walls from cracks.
• To increase the spatial rigidity of the building.

The design ensures strength and reliability load-bearing walls, increases the structure’s resistance to wind, temperature changes, seismic vibrations, soil shrinkage and the construction site itself.

Dimensions of armored belt

The dimensions of the armored belt depend on design feature building material to which it needs to be attached. The wall can be internal or external. For each category, builders consider their own specific requirements regarding the size of the structure.

1. The internal structure is reinforced with an armored belt with a width corresponding to the thickness of the wall.
2. When strengthening a house from the outside, the width of the protective belt should correspond to the width of the wall, excluding insulation and formwork.
3. The minimum height of the structure is one hundred and fifty millimeters. This indicator cannot be greater than the width of the wall.

Options for creating an armored belt

It is possible to install a unloading belt for walls made of aerated concrete blocks in several ways:

1. Using wooden formwork.
2. Using additional blocks.

When comparing these two methods, it can be noted that equipping walls with an armored belt using wooden formwork is technologically more difficult to implement. The second method, using additional blocks, is much simpler, but you will have to invest in it large quantity funds due to the use of expensive building materials.

The unloading belt is not laid:

• Under a solid reinforced concrete structure.
• Under wooden floors, resting on blocks.

In the case, it is enough to pour concrete platforms five centimeters thick under the beams, playing a supporting role, which will reliably protect building blocks from pushing.

IN reinforced concrete structures there's no point in additional protection due to the uniform distribution of the load on the walls

Creating an armored belt using formwork

The formwork for the unloading belt is wooden frame. It is made from scraps of boards fastened together along the outside.

After complete assembly of the formwork, it Bottom part it is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, and the top one with transverse board ties at intervals of eighty to one hundred centimeters. The screed is necessary to make the structure reliable, otherwise when pouring concrete, it may be deformed or crushed.

Before constructing the structure, you should first worry about purchasing the necessary building materials:

1. Edged boards with a minimum thickness of three centimeters and 40x40 timber for the manufacture of formwork.
2. Nails for fastening the plank structure to the wall.
3. Flexible wire to add rigidity to the structure.
4. Reinforcing bars with a diameter of twelve millimeters.
5. Expanded polystyrene for insulation.

Construction tools used:

1. Drill.
2. Hacksaw.

Formwork construction technology

The technological process involves performing work in several stages:

1. Preparation wooden shields.
2. Laying a layer of polystyrene between the wall of the house and a wooden panel for insulation purposes.
3. Fastening the structure to the wall with self-tapping screws or long nails.
4. Additional fastening of wooden structure elements using self-tapping screws and wire.
5. Assembly of the reinforcement frame. First, you should lay the reinforcing pins inside the wooden panels. Flexible wire is used to connect the reinforcement to the frame. It is not recommended to fasten reinforcement to each other welding method due to rusting of the material inside the concrete.
6. Fill cement mortar.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement is made from reinforcement rods with a diameter of eight to twelve millimeters.

The principle of the process is:

1. In horizontal laying of rods.
2. They are fastened with an overlap using flexible knitting wire along the entire perimeter of the wall.
3. In tying the joints with wire rings with a diameter of six millimeters.

Knitting of reinforcing bars should be done directly in the formwork. In its finished form, the reinforcement frame is heavy. If the structure is assembled separately, it will be difficult to lift and place it. It is recommended to lay a layer of stones or bricks between the aerated concrete blocks and the frame of the unloading belt.

1. Pouring concrete

When purchasing dry concrete mixture It is necessary to use material markings not lower than M200.

If there is no product of the required specification in the store, you can prepare it yourself using following proportions in the ratio of components:

• Crushed stone - 4.8 parts.
• Cement – ​​1 part.
• Sand – 2.8 parts.

To increase the density of the composition, crushed stone can be replaced with gravel. After mixing the dry elements, add water in small portions, the amount of which should correspond to twenty percent of total number mixtures.

The concrete pouring technology provides standards for the performance of work, which should be performed to obtain the desired functional result:

1. Pouring must be carried out in one cycle without interruption, avoiding partial drying of the concrete layer.
2. It is necessary to avoid bubbles with emptiness in the filling solution, which in the future, when the mixture dries, will reduce the strength characteristics of the structure.
3. After pouring, it is recommended to compact the concrete using a hammer drill with a special attachment. Also, to eliminate voids in the solution, a vibrating machine is used, and if it is absent, air bubbles will have to be removed by pinning the solution with reinforcement.

2. Construction of an unloading belt using blocks

The formwork can be used not wooden structures, and U-shaped aerated concrete blocks. A mandatory condition for such a building material is the presence of an internal cavity, which is necessary for laying a frame of reinforcement and pouring concrete.

Tray-type blocks are laid the same width as the walls. It is convenient to install such a belt on external walls because it performs an additional insulating function, while eliminating the formation of cold “bridges”.

3. What you need

The method is simple and requires the prior purchase of building material - ten-centimeter-thick prefabricated blocks. Please make a calculation before purchasing required quantity material based on the planned height of the structure and the perimeter of the object.

The process of manufacturing an armored belt structure using additional blocks

1. Installation of additional blocks on the wall in the usual manner.
2. Reinforcement of the central part of the building material.
3. Pouring the resulting structure with cement mortar.

Brick armored belt

The loading belt can be designed using brickwork, reinforced with reinforcing mesh. It is less reliable than concrete and is only applicable for small outbuildings. To increase strength indicators brick construction It is recommended to use reinforcement or metal welded mesh.

Features of the structure:

1. When using reinforcing mesh with a cross-sectional diameter of five millimeters, it is recommended to lay it through four rows of bricks.
2. The width of the structure must correspond to the thickness of the wall of the building being processed.
3. The height of the structure depends on the type of building material of the walls of the house and on the type of roof. The average construction size for a wall made of aerated concrete blocks is forty centimeters.

Strengthening walls with bricks with built-in reinforcement mesh cannot fully replace adding reliability structural elements using a reinforced concrete analogue.

Insulation of armored belt

The most important feature of aerated concrete is its low thermal conductivity, which ensures that a structure built from it does not freeze, even at the lowest ambient temperature. Therefore, when constructing a reinforcing structure, it is important that it does not violate thermal insulation properties Houses.

During the cold season, as well as during periods of sudden temperature changes, condensation may occur on the reinforced belt. In order to avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to carry out work on insulating the structure.

Expanded polystyrene, polystyrene foam and mineral wool can be used as insulating heat-insulating elements. In some cases, aerated concrete blocks with partitions are used. When using mineral wool a small ventilation gap should be left between the insulation and the facing surface.

Adviсe organizational work for insulating the facility:

1. When constructing a structure for the purpose of its subsequent insulation, it should be done with an indentation from the outer edge of the wall, and not along its entire width.
2. The minimum width of the unloading belt should be twenty centimeters when used monolithic concrete and twenty-five centimeters in the case of using brick.
3. The resulting free space After filling, the armored belt should be filled with insulation and covered with a foam block, previously cut to the required dimensions.

1. When pouring cement composition care should be taken that the elements reinforced mesh did not touch the formwork walls.
2. To increase the functionality of the armored belt, a frame made of reinforcement is installed on the surface using a level.
3. The strength of concrete after it is poured is facilitated by its periodic moistening, especially in hot weather. It is recommended to moisten the structure every day for five days. The best effect is achieved by covering the moistened surface with plastic film.
4. The formwork can be removed after a week, but it will function as intended only after two weeks, when the cement mixture has completely hardened.
5. If you plan to insulate the unloading belt, then you should not make it flush with the wall. Experts recommend shifting the formwork inward with the further purpose of filling the resulting niche with insulating material. heat-insulating material.
6. There is no need to spend money on a reinforced belt if there is strong soil not saturated with water under the foundation, brick walls, and also when constructing one-story house with wooden beams rather than reinforced concrete panels.

The reinforcing belt significantly increases the resistance of the walls block house loads from outside and inside. It unites wall elements into a single structural complex and serves as a stiffener.

The armored belt needs insulation: in winter, cold air enters the building through it, and temperature fluctuations can cause the wall to collapse.

Insulation is always carried out from the outside, not from the inside. If it was not carried out during the construction of the house, it must be performed when the house is already built and completed Finishing work.

Armobelt with jumpers

If the difference between the width of the belt and the wall is sufficient, the insulation, together with the subsequent cladding, will be flush with the wall sheathing.

Carrying out insulation work must be done with heat-insulating material of a thickness suitable for installing it in the gap between the reinforced belt and the wall line.

Experts recommend extruded polystyrene foam because thin sheets regular polystyrene foam is very brittle.

If the distance is wide enough, it is better to use 80mm polystyrene foam. To ensure that the belt does not protrude beyond the plane, take into account the width of the skin:

• Facing clinker;
• Siding;
• Ceramics or stone;
• Plaster layer.

The use of mineral wool as insulation requires ventilation gap between the heat insulator and the outer skin, since it absorbs moisture.

The armored belt is equal in width to the wall

When choosing a method of insulation, take into account whether there is a gap between the sheathing and the reinforced belt.

Additional insulation is installed along the perimeter of the facade to the height of the reinforced belt. A two-story building requires two insulating belts, if one is between the floors and the second is made under the Mauerlat.

The insulating part of the armored belt is equal to its height with an addition of 150 mm on each side. The heat insulator is installed with a margin of 15 cm from the upper and lower lines of the reinforced belt.

Insulation external walls house made of blocks is carried out as follows:

• Before fixing the polystyrene foam, the walls must be cleaned of dust and protruding masonry mortar. Dust removal is carried out with a brush, thoroughly cleaning the entire surface of the wall.
• Check the evenness of the walls, since differences of more than 10 mm can cause damage to the insulating material. Any irregularities found must be removed.
• Prime the surface to be treated. It is better to apply the primer with a brush to remove any remaining dust.
• A reinforcing mesh must be glued around the perimeter of each window. First, the roll of material must be cut into strips approximately 400 mm wide. The mesh is installed so that approximately 100 mm is located under the slab, and the remaining part, after installing the insulation, is wrapped and glued to polystyrene foam. The mesh is connected to the main reinforcing coating after gluing the insulation.
• Glue the insulation onto construction adhesive mastic, and after drying, secure it with umbrella dowels with a large head.

In order for the insulation to last longer, you will need to install a drip tray at the top of the belt, made of galvanized metal and coated with polyester. It is located with a slope from the wall. This element is needed to remove precipitation from the armored belt.

External insulation can be done using sprayed polyurethane foam. But this is a rather expensive material, requiring a special spraying apparatus, and is highly toxic. Independent work not recommended - you will have to hire a professional.

Insulation if there is a gap

To carry out foaming, you will need to make holes with a distance of no more than 250–300 mm through the skin along the line of the armored belt. Foam is poured into every second hole.

This method allows you to do high-quality insulation armored belt and will reduce material consumption.

Be sure to use professional foam - the insulating layer will last for several years and will not crumble.

Watch the video:

With proper insulation, in winter the reinforcing belt will not let through cold air and the building will last a long time.

Made of reinforced concrete.

The armored belt can be insulated either during construction (this is the surest way) or some time after construction is completed.

We will not consider the reasons for the lack of insulation of the reinforced belt at the same time as construction - there can be many reasons for this. Let's just look at all the options we know.

IMPORTANT! Insulation must be carried out only from the outside of the building!

Option 1: the width of the armored belt is narrower than the width of the wall.

In this case, you can effectively insulate the armored belt and, if the width allows, make insulation and further cladding flush with the cladding of the entire wall. To do this, you need to take insulation, the width of which allows you to place it in the gap between the reinforced belt and the wall line.

It is likely that you will have to use EPS, because... thin foam is very fragile. If the width still allows, use 80 mm polystyrene foam. To ensure that the belt does not stand out on the facade, you need to take into account the width of the cladding: facing brick. tile or plaster.

If you use mineral wool as insulation, do not forget about the need for a ventilation gap between the mineral wool and the facing brick.

Option 2: the width of the reinforced belt is equal to the width of the wall, the finishing work has been completed, there is no gap between the reinforced belt and the cladding.

In this case, it is necessary to carry out additional insulation. If in two-story house the reinforced belt is made between the first and second floors and after the second floor under the mauerlat, then two insulating belts will need to be made along the facade.

To make it look aesthetically pleasing and durable, you must follow some rules:

• To insulate the armored belt, you can use polystyrene foam, for example, 80 mm thick - grade PSB-S 25. The height of the insulation belt is calculated as follows: 15 cm + height of the armored belt + 15 cm. The insulation is attached 15 cm above the top and below the bottom lines of the reinforced belt.

• How to properly prepare walls for insulation, how to attach polystyrene foam, how to reinforce it with mesh and then plaster it - we described it in great detail with photos in the article

• To ensure the longevity of the insulation belt, it is necessary to place an ebb with a drip in its upper part (the ebb is also used when installing windows to protect the protruding base). The ebb tide is necessary to drain rain or melt water from the insulation belt for your armored belt and is not placed horizontally, but with a slope from the wall. It is best to use a flashing made of galvanized sheet steel with a polyester coating.

• To attach the ebb, it is necessary to make a cut in the wall above the insulation belt, insert the upper edge of the ebb, seal and fasten in increments of 30 cm.

For external insulation, you can also use sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU), which can be closed on top metal profile. We do not recommend doing the work yourself, since it is very toxic (or rather, one of its components is toxic) and a spraying installation is required - it is better to use the services of specialized companies.

Option 3: Armobelt covering the entire width of the wall, finishing work has been completed, there is a gap between the wall and the cladding.

It is necessary to make holes for filling through the cladding along the armored belt line. polyurethane foam in the gap between external cladding and a wall (belt). The pitch between the holes is no more than 25 -30 cm.

Foaming is carried out alternately through one hole. That is, foam the odd numbered holes (1,3,5, etc.) first and wait until the foam hardens. Then you can foam the even-numbered holes. With this approach, you will be able to efficiently insulate the armored belt and reduce the cost of foam. Be sure to use professional foam - in the long run it will be more profitable than re-insulating it after a couple of years due to the foam falling off.

Modern materials offered by the market for thermal insulation

An unusual new (for us) material is thermos paint "Isollat"- it's liquid ultra-thin coating for thermal insulation of walls, facades, pipelines, building structures. A 1 mm thick layer of this modern material replaces 40 mm of mineral wool or 200 mm of expanded polystyrene.

“Isollat”, in addition to an extensive list of properties, helps to significantly reduce the thermal conductivity of structures. We did not use this material, but if you are interested, you can read in detail here: www.isollat.ru.

Get acquainted, study - perhaps you will be interested.

See you again, dear readers of our blog!

Reinforced belt, aka monolithic belt- this is a special design that solves several problems: to distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole. Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with load distribution. Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load from the floor slabs to the walls. If the task is also to connect the walls into a single whole, for example, from the load on the roof truss system onto the walls of the house, then a reinforced concrete belt is needed.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands

Now that we’ve figured out what an armored belt is, let’s find out how to make it with your own hands. With brick everything is simple, you make masonry from solid red brick of minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement with masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.

It is necessary to put up the formwork. It could be like wooden formwork, and “tray” or permanent formwork, If we're talking about about armored belt on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or make your own trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a regular gas block. It is enough to make masonry from thin aerated concrete block from outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray. Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two on top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm. The standard overlap of reinforcement should be 30- 40 diameters. That is, if you lay 12 mm reinforcement, then when increasing it, you need to overlap it by about 40 cm. In the corners, reinforcement is necessary fold over so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.

It is advisable to place the frame made of reinforcement on plastic clamps of the thickness of the protective layer of concrete. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixings for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc. Pins under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement frame for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the reinforced belt with concrete. If you will be pouring purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This grade of strength is absolutely enough for private construction. If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use the universal recipe for concrete proportions: 1 part 500 grade cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.

You can also use one of our construction calculators to calculate the composition of concrete. Don't forget to add concrete plasticizer to the solution. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.

After pouring, cover the armored belt with film to prevent sudden drying. The armored belt will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 21 days after pouring.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

• on a block foundation
• on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow core slabs And wooden beams ceilings

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in winter?

Fill in winter time the occupation is dubious. However, if you really need to fill it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special additives to concrete. Use as little water as possible to prepare concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. IN minus temperature, use a special heating cable.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width.

The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the adjacent slabs or floor beams.

Condensation on the armored belt

Insulate. Other options: increase the room temperature, reduce the room humidity.

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.