Making your own screed for block parquet. Laying parquet boards with your own hands. Opening a parquet floor with varnish or oil

Natural wood flooring is always beautiful, aesthetically pleasing and warm. Parquet is used to create an original and individual floor covering. Block parquet is used to create a unique, inimitable pattern, which is why it is widespread, even though its installation is a complex and time-consuming process. To lay parquet, you do not have to call specialists; after studying all the technology and strictly following all the instructions and rules, you can do all the work yourself.

Preparing the base

1) Deck- the most common installation method. All planks are positioned evenly and parallel to each other, offset by 1/3 of the length of the plank.

2) Herringbone— the slats are connected to each other at a special angle of 90 °. There are two tenons on the parquet planks - on the longitudinal and narrow end sides. And two grooves come from the opposite side. This method of laying is more difficult than the previous one, since all rows need to be perfectly aligned.

3) Squares and braid are easy to install. The first four planks of parquet are installed and connected together, the next planks are connected, but are positioned perpendicular to the first.
Thus, all rows alternate, and an organic, beautiful geometric pattern is obtained.

4) Network Comes with inserts from various types of wood.

5) Diamonds installed from peculiar diamond-shaped planks.

6) Sheremetyevo star It is made of two types: rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped strips.

In addition to the above types, there are variants with different shapes and patterns.

Sanding parquet

must be done to ensure that the surface of the parquet is as smooth as possible without any defects.

Do-it-yourself parquet sanding is done using special sanding machines or a grinder.

The option with a grinding machine is more preferable, and there will be much less dust.

The first two times, sanding is done with coarse grains to remove large irregularities. And the next time - with fine grain, to obtain a smoother coating and remove the roughness that arose after the first two sandings. After this, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, removing fine dust.

Parquet putty

Do-it-yourself parquet putty should be done using special mixtures and tools.

It is necessary to fill all the cracks in the parquet, even if there are no large visible defects. The entire floor needs to be treated with a special wood polish, all cracks and various irregularities must be filled. After drying, the parquet floor will need to be sanded again and excess putty removed. Next you need to vacuum the floor. To improve grip

Flooring is one of the essential elements interior It carries not only an aesthetic load, but also, if executed correctly, creates cozy atmosphere in room. The most common coating option is natural wood, or rather wooden parquet. It (parquet) can be installed in almost any room, with the exception of the kitchen and bathroom.

Features of the installation procedure

It requires a lot of effort and time, but a floor covered with such material is durable and attractive in appearance.

Attention! Parquet can be either classical technology(stripes), and a more modern method - braided, herringbone or Dutch.

Main types of parquet

The choice of one technology or another largely depends on the type of parquet. There are several such types today.

The most popular is piece parquet, so this article discusses its installation. It is worth remembering that the more complex the installation, the more time it takes and, accordingly, the more expensive it will cost.

Prices for different types of parquet boards

Parquet board

Laying methods

The choice of one or another method of laying parquet depends on the type of surface on which the installation will be carried out. There are several such methods:

• on a concrete screed;
• on ;
• on the subfloor.

Let's look at each of them.

To work, you will need the following tools (regardless of the type of coating):

• hammer;
• nails;
• marker;
• roulette;
• saw;
• jigsaw;
• wedges;
• drill;
• Grinder.

Step 1. Using an electronic moisture meter, surface moisture is measured ( maximum rate – 2%).

Step 2. The surface is primed using special glue for parquet - plywood will be laid on this primer. The adhesive must be suitable for the specific type of primer. It is recommended to use rubber glue, since it is used most often.

Attention! The primer coat requires a minimum of eight hours to dry. Further work can be carried out only after this period has expired.

Step 3. If the humidity level exceeds 2%, a hydrobarrier is applied (a special moisture-repellent primer, which is applied in two layers with an hour break between them). The first layer of the barrier is sprinkled with quartz sand.

Step 4. Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood 1-1.8 cm thick are taken, each of them is sawn into four equal parts. It is important that when laying plywood there is a seam of approximately 5 mm.

Attention! The horizontality of the coating is checked by level. If it is uneven, then differences will form during installation.

Step 6. The installation procedure ends with scraping the surface. This can be done no earlier than a week after completion of the work.

First, sanding is carried out (using a special grinding machine), during which the surface is leveled and all contaminants remaining after installation are removed. Next, the cracks formed after thermal deformation of the wooden elements are puttied.

Attention! The entire surface of the coating is puttied.

To ensure that the color of the putty matches the color of the parquet, a special liquid is mixed with wood dust.

Step 7. After the putty has dried, it remains to carry out the final processing -. First, the room is protected from drafts, and all electrical appliances that could affect the humidity level are turned off. The parquet is varnished in several layers: the first - primer - is necessary to preserve the natural color of the material, the second - finishing - is applied only after the base layer has completely dried.

Attention! Parquet can be used not only for decorative purposes, but also to hide pipelines (more on this below).

Parquet flooring can be formed not only on a concrete screed, but also on joists. This installation method has certain advantages, including:

• absence of excess moisture in the room;
• increased sound and thermal insulation properties due to the fact that the gaps between the joists can be filled with one or another insulator;
• possibility of laying communications;
• high speed of installation work.

The laying technology in this case is practically no different from that described above, except that the plywood is placed not on the screed, but on the joists.

Subfloor installation

This method of laying parquet is the cheapest and easiest to implement, primarily because there is no need to create a concrete screed or install joists. But this method also has its own characteristics and nuances, which you definitely need to know about in order to get a high-quality result.

1. The subfloor is made of tongue and groove wood.
2. It should not vibrate or make sounds during operation, that is, when walking.
3. Its surface must be smooth ( mounting level to help).
4. The boards must be securely fixed both vertically and horizontally.
5. The floor surface should be coated with an antiseptic.

All installation options described should be carried out only after completion repair work in room. Allow at least a week to pass after any repairs that may affect humidity levels are completed. The humidity itself during operation should not exceed 55-60%, and the temperature in the room should not exceed 20-24ᵒC.

Attention! All described installation methods were performed using mechanical fastening technology. But there are other technologies that you should also know about.

Floating floor technology

In this case, no glue is used, so installation is carried out approximately twice as fast. Each plank has a groove on one side and a tenon on the other. This method of fixation is called a click system. A “floating floor” is very practical; in addition, if you move, the covering can be dismantled.

Attention! Sometimes they appear on parquet boards. When using “dry” technology, a damaged board can be easily replaced even without the help of a specialist.

Using glue

This technology differs in that the grooves with tenons are glued together. The main thing you need to know is that you cannot buy glue on water based, otherwise the material will soon deform.

Glue must be applied along the entire length of each groove. If diagonal installation was chosen, then work begins from the corner, and if longitudinal, then from the wall farthest relative to the entrance door.

Attention! Diagonal installation it looks more aesthetically pleasing, but it is associated with more costs (therefore, it will cost more) and installation difficulties.

Prices for flooring adhesives

Flooring adhesives

The coating may develop stains that cannot be washed with a damp cloth. To remove such stains, special means are used, but there are also traditional methods that are more gentle and no less effective.

Attention! It is unacceptable to use acetone in its pure form.

For a more detailed introduction to the installation technology, watch the video below.

Video - Do-it-yourself parquet installation

A wooden floor is always beautiful, original and warm. The unique atmosphere of comfort created is incomparable with other types of flooring. Parquet is used to create an individual, refined and noble floor covering. Block parquet can be used to form a fashionable, unique pattern, which is why it is still popular today, despite the fact that laying block parquet is complex and time-consuming. However, it is not necessary to call a specialist; after studying the technology and following all the rules and recommendations, you can do all the installation work yourself. The task is also simplified by the fact that all modern parquet planks are made with a tongue-and-groove system, which helps to securely fasten the parquet elements together without gaps.

Block parquet flooring - choosing wood

Not only the color scheme of the parquet depends on the type of wood, but also its durability, since different types of wood have different hardness and resistance to moisture. For example, pine and others conifers are not used for parquet production due to their exceptional softness. On pine parquet, even if it is covered with several layers of varnish, marks from heels and other sharp objects will remain.

The most common species used for parquet are oak, walnut, maple, cherry, ash, beech and others.

Classics of the genre. It is hard, resistant to moisture, has a beautiful pattern, the color scheme of which can have various shades of brown. The only drawback of oak is that it darkens over time. Otherwise, its performance characteristics are excellent. When purchasing oak parquet, pay attention to the duration of its drying; the accelerated drying option is not suitable.

It has the same hardness as oak, but at the same time has an even warm and soft yellowish or reddish tint, for which it is valued. Beech is a capricious breed. Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, it bends and deforms, so it requires careful care and compliance optimal conditions operation.

Maple parquet At first it appears white, but over time it turns a little yellow. In terms of hardness, it is practically not inferior to oak, and in some species this indicator is even higher. You should pay attention to the drying time; quickly dried maple wood becomes deformed over time.

Cherry parquet - Brown with a distant shade of pink, but darkens slightly over time. It has less hardness than oak, however, it is quite popular because it can be easily processed and trimmed.

Exotic option. It is valued for its beautiful patterns in the cross-section of the trunk and for its wide range of colors - all shades of brown. Merbau is not afraid of moisture, but is so saturated with resins that it is difficult to process.

Choose wood for parquet based on the operating conditions in a particular room. For example, cherry can be used in a child's room, maple in a den, and oak can be used everywhere. It is not at all necessary to make the entire parquet floor from one type of wood; you can combine it from different species different shades unique drawing.

We buy piece parquet - pay attention to quality

Parquet planks are available in various sizes. The length of the plank can be 15 - 40 cm, width 3 - 9 cm, and thickness 1.5 - 2.2 cm.

It is necessary to select planks according to size, taking into account the area of ​​the room: small planks will visually enlarge the room, and large ones will reduce it. From an installation point of view, the size of the planks is also important. If the parquet strips are large, then the number of joints will be smaller, but then the requirements for the quality of drying of the material will be much greater. The larger the bar, the less elasticity it has.

The optimal width of parquet planks is 5 cm. If you need to use larger planks, buy those that have cuts on the inside; they are more resistant to deformation.

What should you pay attention to when purchasing block parquet?:

• On front surface there should be no knots, chips or cracks.
• The top layer (from the top to the beginning of the interlocking joint) should be large enough. The thicker the wear layer, the more times the parquet can be sanded and refinished.
• Products must be dried to 8%. Drying time is at least a month.
• It is necessary to check the quality of the tenon and groove cut. To do this, just fold 4 planks into a square. If the planks fit together easily and 90° angles are formed between them without cracks or gaps, then the tongue-and-groove system is made with high quality.
• Sort the planks according to the cutting direction, the presence of sapwood residues and knots.

The most durable and valuable are the planks of the so-called radial cut, i.e. loose along. A characteristic feature are straight lines on the surface and a solid color. Radial parquet is more expensive than other types.

All work on laying parquet begins only after finishing the ceiling and walls, laying communications and checking them for leaks. When laying parquet, certain humidity and temperature indicators must be observed. So the residual humidity of the walls should not be higher than 6%, the humidity of the floor should not be higher than 5%, and the relative humidity of the air should be 35 - 60%. The optimal temperature is 18 - 23 °C.

Failure to comply with these conditions will result in deformation of the coating. If you lay parquet at high humidity levels, it will swell and take on moisture. And when all the work is finished, over time it will dry out, begin to “shrink” and gaps will appear between the dies. Fixing this is much more difficult and expensive than doing everything right from the beginning.

The surface on which piece parquet will be laid must be perfectly flat, maximum error 1 mm per 1 m2.

includes the following stages of work:

1. Repair of old concrete floors, if required.
2. Waterproofing concrete base.
3. Fill the leveling screed 4 - 5 cm thick. Or laying joists for a wooden floor.
4. Priming the screed for glue.
5. Gluing moisture-resistant plywood to a screed or attaching plywood to joists.
6. Gluing and nailing parquet to plywood.
7. Sanding the parquet surface.
8. Puttying parquet.
9. Priming parquet for varnish.
10. Opening the parquet with varnish from 3 to 9 layers.

All of the above measures must be completed, otherwise over time the parquet will dry out, begin to creak, or fall off altogether.

Preparatory work before laying parquet

Preparing a solid and level foundation is perhaps one of the most important tasks in laying parquet. The durability of the coating as a whole will depend on the quality of the fastening surface. The cost of laying piece parquet, if you order it in profile construction organizations, usually does not include base preparation.

Preparing the concrete base

If parquet is to be laid on concrete floor, then the first thing you need to do is waterproof it. To do this, the surface of the floor slab must be covered with a superdiffusion membrane or 200 micron polyethylene film. The joints of the film sheet are made with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm and are taped with construction tape. The waterproofing film is applied to the walls by 10 - 15 cm and temporarily secured to it with tape.

Then you need to fill in the leveling screed, which will also serve as a mounting base for the plywood. The thickness of the screed should be 4 - 5 cm. It is imperative to check the horizontality of the coating and the absence of defects - holes, potholes, height differences and others.

Important! Before starting subsequent work, the screed must be completely dry. This will take about a month or two. You should not rush and continue laying parquet flooring, as the wood will draw moisture from the screed, and this will lead to inevitable deformations.

When the screed dries, its surface is covered with special primers, which increase the adhesion of the base to the glue and at the same time act as waterproofing.

Then moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 12 mm is taken and cut into squares of 50x50 cm or 75x75 cm.

Functions of moisture-resistant plywood under a piece package:

• Protects parquet from shrinkage deformations.
• Ideally levels the surface.
• Serves as thermal insulation and partial sound insulation.
• Provides durability.
• Serves as a basis for fastening parquet strips. If you lay parquet directly on a screed, the planks may fall off due to the destruction of the top layer of the screed. Plywood holds them firmly.

Important! The thickness of the plywood should be 5 mm less than the thickness of the parquet strip. But using sheets smaller than 12 mm is impractical; they do not perform their functions. In this case, you can lay the plywood in two layers, staggered.

Next, the surface of the screed is lubricated with glue and squares of plywood are laid on it, pressed tightly and fixed with dowel nails or self-tapping screws. It is necessary to leave at least 1 - 1.5 mm gap between the squares of plywood to prevent deformation of the parquet if the plywood begins to expand.

It is also important to leave a gap between the wall and the plywood of 2 - 3 mm, this will expansion joint. You can insert special wedges into the gap to prevent the gap from moving.

It is not necessary to attach the plywood to the concrete base; you can do it the old fashioned way - the floor is on joists. To do this, you don’t even have to level the concrete base. It is enough to waterproof it by spreading a waterproofing film.

Then the logs are laid in increments of 35 - 40 cm. You can use 50x50 or 50x80 mm timber as logs. The logs are secured to the floor using corners and dowels. In the process of laying the logs, it is necessary to ensure that their surface forms an even plane. To do this, in places where there are differences in heights of the concrete base, you can place wooden stands or trim off the excess.

When the logs are installed, plywood is nailed. Glue is no longer used here, only self-tapping screws. The step for attaching the plywood squares to the joists is 10 - 15 cm. It is necessary to nail the plywood not only at the edges, but also in the middle to all the joists. The gap between the squares is also required.

Preparing an old wooden floor

Before laying parquet on an old wooden floor, it must be checked to ensure it is in good condition. There should be no creaks, dips or other defects anywhere. If something similar is observed, it is necessary to partially dismantle the flooring and repair the joists. After the renovation is completed, the surface of the old wooden floor is sanded. Parquet can be laid directly on a wooden subfloor, without plywood.

Laying block parquet with your own hands

The work of laying block parquet is very important; you cannot rush here, reducing the repair time. It’s better to take a break for a day or two or a week than to have to redo all the work. After all, one mistake and all the coverage is down the drain.

Methods for laying block parquet

The technology of laying parquet involves several ways of laying it:

• Floating installation method.
• Laying on parquet glue.
• Laying with fastening with nails or self-tapping screws.
• Laying on parquet glue and securing with nails or self-tapping screws.

Floating method installation involves fastening parquet planks only to each other using a tongue-and-groove system. They are not attached to the base in any other way. To prevent such a floor from creaking, they lay soundproofing material, for example, a traffic jam. Parquet planks secured in this way will expand and contract freely depending on temperature and humidity conditions. The floating floor is repairable - just disassemble it and put it back together. But the strength of such a coating is very doubtful; it is enough for one locking connection to become loose for the entire floor to begin to warp and deform.

Laying parquet with glue It is considered more durable, but also less repairable. The base is generously lubricated with glue, then parquet flooring is laid, connecting with a tongue-and-groove system. This method is considered more labor-intensive and expensive due to the consumption of glue.

Installation with parquet adhesive and fastening with nails or self-tapping screws- the most durable and popular method. Such a floor is practically not subject to deformations, since they are restrained from all sides. But at the same time, it will no longer be possible to repair such parquet. All hope for long term operation.

How to lay piece parquet - stages of work

To make the pattern on the parquet smooth and beautiful, it is advisable to draw it on paper. It is important to take into account exact dimensions premises and parquet strips. If suddenly the drawing turns out that some row is not whole, then the drawing must be redone so that there are trimmed rows along the edges of the room, and only straight rows in the center.

The beginning of laying parquet also depends on the pattern. Let's look at the example of the “Christmas tree”.

• First, we mark out the room and find its middle. In the middle of the room, from wall to wall, we stretch a cord along which we will navigate.
• We take two parquet planks and connect them in a herringbone pattern, inserting a tenon into the groove. Apply glue to the tenon, groove and ends of the planks.
• Then we coat the plywood base with glue, starting from the far wall. We use a notched spatula for this.

• We apply the “beacon herringbone” to the plywood so that the left edge of the planks presses the cord to the base, and the right edge of the planks rests against the cord.
• Press the planks against the plywood so as to squeeze out excess glue.
• Then we secure the planks with nails or self-tapping screws, screwing them into the groove of the plank at an angle of 45 ° and recessing the head. There must be at least 2 nail fastenings per 40 cm long plank.

Important! During the installation process, the master must sit so that the tongue of the planks is located towards him.

• Next, we lay the planks according to the pattern. We coat the plywood base with glue to the width of the plank, 1 - 1.5 mm thick.
• We apply the bar, inserting it into the end and longitudinal groove of the previous one, and finish it off with a rubber hammer. We fix it with self-tapping screws into the groove.

• First, we lay rows of planks in the “lighthouse herringbone” pattern, on the left and right.

• Then we lay a row of planks to the left of the “beacon herringbone”, then to the right. And so on we proceed, expanding the laying area until we reach the walls.
• We fill narrow spaces near the walls with planks cut to size.
• We insert wedges between the wall and the last row of parquet planks, leaving a gap of 2 - 3 mm.

All further work can be done after at least a week so that the glue has time to dry well. Although some experts recommend waiting six months, then the parquet planks themselves will take their final position.

The good thing about block parquet is that it can be laid in different patterns, placing the planks at different angles and in different sequences.

"Deck"- the easiest way to install. The planks are placed exactly, parallel to each other, offset by 1/3 or ½ of the length of the plank. The first plank is located near the wall; for a tighter fit, a tenon is sawed off from it.

"Herringbone"- the planks are connected to each other at an angle of 90 °. The planks should have two tenons - one on the longitudinal side, the second on the narrow end. There should also be two grooves on opposite sides. This method laying is quite complicated, since the rows must be perfectly aligned.

"Squares" and “braid” are formed quite easily. First, 2/3/4 planks of parquet are joined together and laid, then the other 2/3/4 planks are connected, but laid perpendicular to the first. This way the rows alternate, creating an organic geometric pattern.

"Braided" with inserts from different types of wood.

"Rhombuses" are laid from peculiar diamond-shaped parquet strips.

"Sheremetyevskaya Star" It is laid out from two types: rectangular planks and inclined diamond-shaped ones.

In addition to the above options, there are combinations of them with various shapes and patterns.

The price for laying block parquet depends on the layout of the planks. The simplest “deck” layout costs 7.5 - 8 USD. for 1 m2, “herringbone” will cost 9 USD. per meter, and artistic parquet can cost from 17 USD. up to 35 USD and even more. All these prices are indicated without preparatory work and further finishing work - sanding and varnishing. The average cost of laying parquet with sanding and varnishing is 17 USD. for 1 m2.

Grinding is necessary in order to make the surface as smooth as possible and remove defects that arise during the work. Grinding can be done with special grinding machines or a regular grinder with a sandpaper wheel. Of course, the option with a grinder is more preferable, and there will be less dust.

The first and second time grinding is carried out large grain to cut off large uneven areas. Third time - fine grain to achieve smoothness of the coating and remove roughness that appeared after the first sanding. Then the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed, removing all fine dust.

Puttying and priming of block parquet

It doesn’t hurt to fill all the cracks in the parquet, even if there are no visible large defects. The entire floor is rubbed with a special wood putty, all cracks and irregularities are filled. After drying, the floor must be sanded again with fine grain and excess putty must be removed. Then the floor is vacuumed again. To improve the adhesion of the varnish to the parquet and at the same time ensure that the varnish does not penetrate deep into the wood structure, the surface of the putty parquet floor is coated with a primer.

Opening a parquet floor with varnish or oil

The varnish protects the wood from moisture and mechanical stress. The total number of layers of varnish on parquet can be from 3 to 9. The more layers, the deeper the image. The varnish is applied with a roller to the entire surface at once, after which the floor is left to dry thoroughly for 24 - 36 hours. It is necessary to carry out varnishing work in clean soft shoes.

Important! While the varnish is drying, do not open the windows or leave them open. entrance doors, turn on air conditioning, ventilation, or otherwise provide a draft. The varnish should dry in as windless conditions as possible.

All subsequent layers of varnish are also applied with a roller with a drying interval of 24 - 36 hours for each layer. The last layer must dry for at least a week so that you can walk on it carefully, and you can bring furniture into the room only after at least a month, or even two.

Parquet varnish can be glossy or matte. Glossy makes the floor shine, brightens the room and highlights the pattern. Matt lacquer used to reduce the brightness of the pattern on wood and to create an atmosphere of warm comfort.

Laying block parquet can cost approximately 2 to 4 times more than laying solid boards. But at the same time, the coating will be more refined and durable, and there is also less risk of squeaking. The key to success in creating beautiful, prestigious parquet is the patience of the craftsman.

Parquet is a durable and durable flooring option, which is why it is often preferred. The easiest way is to buy the material in a store, but some craftsmen decide that making parquet with their own hands is not a waste of time, but an opportunity to get an environmentally friendly and high-quality coating.

Indeed, you can make parquet yourself, but how expedient will these actions be? In order to understand this, you will have to understand with examples how this is done.

One Russian family in the early 2000s was able to obtain about 4 pallets of small mahogany and oak bars. And at the same time they became the owners of an apartment that needed major renovation, since it had only bare walls and ceilings. The family decided to do all the finishing work themselves and came to the conclusion that they could make wood material parquet. The idea was crazy, but what do difficulties mean to the hardworking and determined?

Is it possible to make parquet with your own hands?

As a base for the parquet, they made M-300 sand concrete - thus, they were able to eliminate the unevenness of the floor, the differences of which ranged from 3 to 12 cm throughout the apartment. Next on bitumen mastic they laid OSB sheets, secured additionally with dowels. The choice fell on OSB, because this material is very durable and not afraid of moisture. Next, the slabs were covered with a special primer.

On a note! To make parquet with their own hands, the family used available tools and the material itself, which miraculously fell into their hands. However, parquet made independently at home can only be made without locking joints, which increase the solidity of the coating. This can be a massive or stacked version of the material. Such parquet can only be fixed to the floor using glue.

Parquet cutting was carried out using stationary circular and cross-cut machines. The resulting slats had to have the same size - in that case it was 10x70x500 mm. The moisture content of the wood should be low - about 9%.

The finished boards were fixed to the base using the usual. At the same time, sometimes it was necessary to individually adjust the planks to each other. After installing the floor, the parquet was sanded, the gaps filled with acrylic wood compound, sanded and varnished.

Master Class. Self-production parquet floors with heating system. Downloadable file (click the link to open the PDF in a new window).

Laying the manufactured parquet

Laying self-made parquet is done in almost the same way as installing regular store-bought material. Let's look at how this process happens in practice.

Step 1. First, the base is prepared - it must be perfectly flat, since the parquet will be fixed using an adhesive composition. To do this, first, if necessary, it is made cement strainer made of concrete grade minimum M250. If old screed well preserved, it must be cleared of debris and primed with epoxy. In this case, plywood is used as a base directly under the parquet. Its sheets are cut into equal-sized squares. The thickness of the plywood should be about 12-18 mm. The squares will have dimensions of 50x50 or 75x75 cm. For convenience, appropriate markings are applied to the plywood sheets.

Advice! If the screed is made from scratch with your own hands, then it is important not to forget to lay the waterproofing material.

Step 3. The next stage is laying the plywood on the base and fixing it. Installation of individual elements is carried out staggered, that is, the seams should not be joined at one point. There is a gap of about 2-3 mm between the individual sheets. The base is coated with adhesive mastic, after which the sheets are laid and screwed for additional fixation to the floor using dowels or screws (depending on the type of base - wood or concrete).

Step 4. The plywood is sanded using a special machine.

Step 5. For convenience, markings are applied to the plywood along which the parquet will be laid. It is applied in accordance with the selected pattern.

Step 6. Next, the base is gradually coated with a special glue, which is applied using a notched trowel. It is on this glue that the parquet boards are laid one at a time. They are pressed tightly to the base, and the gaps between separate elements should be minimal. While the glue dries, the parquet can be pressed down with a weight.

Step 7 The entire subfloor is covered in the same way. Next, the parquet is sanded.

Step 8 The last stage is varnishing parquet flooring.

Advice! You can close the joint between the parquet floor and other coverings at the exit from the room using a sufficiently wide aluminum threshold.

Video - How to lay parquet?

Making such a floor yourself is extremely simple. To do this, we cut these wooden triangles. The degrees of angles are indicated in the figure. This element is good because it can easily form a beautiful and at the same time beautiful pattern.

Working with artistic parquet

Sometimes craftsmen decide to take a completely desperate step and make artistic parquet with their own hands. This is also a type of parquet flooring, but the materials are laid in a special way. In this case, the design is made from several types of wood, and may also have patterns made separately.

On a note! Artistic parquet was first used for flooring in the 16th century. Its production was considered a very complex process, and therefore the labor costs were equal to those required when weaving expensive carpets. Such parquet was used only for decorating halls in castles, palaces, and houses of the nobility.

But even today, artistic parquet has not outlived its usefulness, although it continues to be a very painstaking type. self made, that's why it's very expensive. The work is complex in that it requires care, a sense of taste, responsibility, the right choice of materials - everything, even the most seemingly insignificant properties of the wood used, must be taken into account.

Techniques for making artistic parquet

For the manufacture of artistic parquet Usually they use types of wood such as oak, ash, maple, walnut, etc. The denser the material is used, the longer the floor will last, it will be easier to repair if necessary, and it will be faster to work with such material. The beauty of the finished drawing will also depend on how the wood was processed. For example, cutting a log can be done in different ways and this will also affect the appearance of the floor.

Prices for Papa Carlo parquet

Papa Carlo parquet

On a note! For artistic parquet, cross-cut wood is usually used.

Table. Options for artistic parquet designs.

Name	Description
	In this case, several types of planks are used to create a pattern, which, after processing, are attached to the base board. The most popular option for making a drawing.
	The finished drawing is placed deep into the base. Materials such as metal, amber, and mother-of-pearl can be used for decoration. A less durable version of artistic parquet, but more expensive.
	In this case, the pattern is created by cutting grooves for the design, which itself is made of dark wood. The method is very ancient and is now practically not used.

Also, parquet flooring can be laid with a “rosette” (the parts have an oval or round shape, located in the middle of the pattern), a “border” (a part of the floor with a certain motif that divides the space of the room), modules (in this case, the parquet is assembled from individual panels - original geometric compositions are obtained).

Advantages and disadvantages of artistic parquet

It’s not for nothing that artistic parquet is still valued today. It has a number of advantages:

• durability due to the use of hard wood;
• environmental friendliness;
• excellent thermal insulation performance;
• beauty and originality;
• the ability to create your own pattern.

Disadvantages include high cost, difficulty in manufacturing, low resistance to frequent and strong mechanical stress.

Making artistic parquet at home

The high cost of this parquet and at the same time the desire to still make such floors force home owners to try making this parquet with their own hands.

Step 1. The first step is to draw up a design project, which will mark the dimensions, the place where the pattern was created, as well as the main pattern of the parquet.

On a note! Work should be carried out at a temperature of +17-23 degrees, humidity - about 40-60%.

Step 3. Using the templates laid on the floor, the future pattern is milled into the parquet base.

Step 4. Unnecessary elements are removed - gaps appear for installing artistic details.

Step 5. The finished gaps are cleaned of any resulting dust, sawdust, or wood chips.

Step 6. According to the sketch from pieces of wood different types details of the pattern are made, which are then glued into the main parquet in previously prepared places. Gluing is carried out using an adhesive composition intended for parquet. A hammer can be used to force the parts into place.

Step 7 The entire picture is inserted in the same way.

Step 8 Parquet floors with a finished pattern are sanded with a special machine.

Step 9 A primer coat of varnish is applied. It is spread over the surface with a spatula evenly and without leaving empty spaces.

Step 10 Varnish coating After drying, it is sanded using a special machine.

Step 11 The floor is cleaned of dust with a vacuum cleaner - preparation is made for applying the final varnish layer.

Step 12 The final layer of varnish is applied with a roller, and in hard-to-reach places and along the walls - with a brush.

Video - Making palace parquet

Brushed parquet boards - what is it?

At home you can make the so-called brushed parquet. This is one of the new technologies for creating artificially aged floors. The material undergoes special processing, during which it acquires an original appearance. By the way, this processing method can significantly increase the service life of the parquet base.

Aging of wood occurs through treatment with a hard metal brush, which removes the soft fibers of the boards, while the hard ones remain in place. This way, the textures on the wood will be clearly visible, and if you cover them with oil, the natural beauty will become clearly visible.

After the soft wood fibers are removed, the boards are covered with a patina (special paint), which helps make the wood structure more obvious, emphasizes its porosity, or other materials. Also, the boards can be tinted - that is, the wood will change its color by a couple of tones. Usually it becomes somewhat darker than it was. Wood can be coated with varnish, wax or oil.

How to make brushed parquet with your own hands

To make brushed parquet you will need a grinder, a saw, a drill, a hard metal brush attachment for a drill, and a stripping router (it is not cheap, so it is best to rent it). Next comes the brushing process: the wood is cleared of soft fibers using a metal brush. This process gives it texture.

Advice! To reduce dust in the air, you can wet the wood with water before processing. However, before the next stage, the material must dry well.

To get rid of wood fluff formed during the aging process, the board is treated with a polymer brush with a grain size of P80-P120. At the last stage finishing material for the floor is polished.

Polymer brushes - end and radial

You can make parquet with your own hands, but all of the above procedures are quite time-consuming and will take a lot of effort. How advisable is it to tinker with such parquet? It is impossible to give a definite answer. However, in the modern world, with its constant rush and lack of time, this type of work is performed either by specialists or enthusiasts.

Laying parquet flooring yourself will help you save on the services of a professional, since durable and beautiful parquet flooring is quite expensive.

Parquet has not gone out of fashion for many years. This The best decision for the floor, if we take into account the price-quality ratio. Parquet attracts with its naturalness, it is called “ living tree“And it, like all living things, requires special care during installation and operation.

Parquet reacts to changes in humidity and temperature and is not recommended for installation in rooms where it is difficult or impossible to maintain the required microclimate: winter gardens, bathrooms, swimming pools and unheated rooms.

Laying parquet yourself is quite a difficult task. Therefore, it is first necessary to study all detailed information, nuances and installation methods.

All difficulties will be forgotten after the result: a beautiful, warm, original and “living” floor. Parquet floors add sophistication, nobility to the room and create a special, unique atmosphere of comfort.

Modern parquet planks have a tongue-and-groove system, which allows you to lay parquet in any pattern firmly, quickly and without gaps.

Parquet is a floor covering made of small wooden planks. Parquet planks are made from oak, ash, beech, maple, birch, etc. For artistic parquet, mahogany, walnut and exotic species are used.

How to choose the right parquet

Not only the appearance and color of the parquet, but also its durability and strength depend on the type of wood. Important factors to know when purchasing parquet flooring:

• First of all, find out what kind of wood the parquet is made of.

Wood for parquet is selected taking into account the operating conditions. For example, for a children's room it is better to choose cherry parquet. An excellent option for an office is maple parquet. But oak parquet is suitable for all rooms.

Oak parquet

An old, time-tested classic. Parquet attracts with its color range, beautiful patterns, strength, moisture resistance and durability. Oak parquet is wear-resistant, does not rot, is resistant to mechanical stress and tolerates different climatic conditions well. The only drawback of oak parquet is that during use it becomes darker in color.

Beech parquet

Beech parquet is not inferior in hardness to oak. Beech parquet is valued for its warm, soft color reddish or yellowish tint and for durability: beech wood does not rot. Disadvantage - it reacts to changes in temperature and does not tolerate humidity, which leads to deformation of the flooring.

Maple parquet

It is also not inferior to oak parquet in terms of hardness. It attracts with its almost white color, which over the years acquires a yellowish tint. Disadvantage: Rapid drying of maple wood can lead to deformation of the parquet flooring.

Cherry parquet

Features a beautiful brown with barely noticeable pink tint. It is inferior in hardness to oak, but is easy to process and cut. The disadvantage is the slight darkening of the parquet flooring over time. But at the same time, the floor does not lose its decorative appeal; it acquires the noble shade of antique parquet.

Merbau parquet

The merbau tree is an exotic native to Indonesia, the Moluccas or the island of New Guinea. Freshly cut heartwood is yellow or orange-brown in color, which over time becomes bronze or dark red.

Wood contains natural oils. Therefore, the parquet turns out to be treated with natural resins. This coating is not afraid of moisture and is very durable.

Ash parquet

Ash wood has a higher density than oak. But the wood is tough and easy to work with. Ash parquet is strong, durable and resistant to rot. Ash parquet board is made light shade with a beautiful pattern of rings and heart-shaped rays. Disadvantage: wood is difficult to treat with impregnations and antiseptics.

Alder parquet

Alder is easy to work with and dries quickly. After additional processing, it takes on a noble appearance and resembles valuable species in appearance. Disadvantages: not resistant to rotting. Although after covering the wood with a protective layer, this drawback is eliminated.

Birch parquet

Birch wood is easy to process, has a uniform density and medium hardness. After staining and polishing, birch parquet perfectly imitates valuable tree species. Attracts with an inexpensive price.

Disadvantage of birch parquet: tendency to rot.

Decide on the size of the slats

Manufacturers produce parquet planks of different sizes. They are selected taking into account the area: large planks visually make the room smaller, small ones make it larger.

Choose your installation method

The optimal width of the slats is 5 cm. To prevent deformation of larger slats, cuts are made on the inside.

The size of the planks is important when choosing a laying method: with larger planks there will be fewer connections. At the same time, the requirements for drying the material increase, since the larger the bar, the less elasticity.

• Check that there are no knots, cracks or chips on the surface.
• Choose planks with a large top layer: this will allow large quantity time to sand and renew the parquet.
• Make sure the material is dried to 8%. Drying should take at least a month.
• Check the quality of the tenons and grooves. To do this, fold 4 planks into a square. If the tenon-groove system is of high quality, then the planks should:

1. easy to dock;
2. form a right angle;
3. do not form cracks or gaps.

• Select the type of parquet according to the cutting direction.

Radial cut planks - those spread lengthwise - are considered the most valuable and durable. They are distinguished by straight lines and solid colors. This type of parquet has the highest price.

Laying technology

Laying parquet can begin after:

• ceiling finishing;
• wall decoration;
• laying communications;
• checking communications for leaks.

Parquet is laid under certain climatic conditions:

• wall humidity no more than 6%;
• floor humidity – 5%;
• air humidity 35 - 60%;
• temperature 18 -23 °C.

Failure to comply with these conditions will result in deformation of the coating. High humidity levels will cause the parquet boards to become saturated with moisture and swell. After drying, cracks may appear between the planks. Correcting these shortcomings will be quite difficult and expensive. Therefore, we advise you not to neglect the advice of specialists.

Parquet planks are laid on a flat surface with a maximum difference of 1 mm per square meter.

Stages of work

Laying parquet yourself is a difficult but doable task. No stage of work should be neglected. Violation of the technology will lead to deformation, the parquet may fall off or creak.

• Preparatory work

An important task before installation is to prepare a level base. The durability of the coating depends on this. There are several types of base:

Preparing the concrete base

Concrete pavement must be waterproofed. For this they use special materials or plastic film. The canvases are laid overlapping and taped together. Lay the waterproofing film slightly overhanging the walls and also secure it with tape.

The prepared surface is filled with a leveling screed and an excellent base is obtained for fastening plywood sheets.

When pouring, ensure that the screed is horizontal. Make sure that no defects are formed: holes, potholes and elevation changes. The thickness of the screed is at least 5 cm.

The next step should be performed after the screed has dried: this will take from one to two months. If you lay parquet on a wet surface, the wood will draw moisture from the screed, which will subsequently lead to deformation of the floor.

After the screed has dried, the surface is treated with a primer. Next stage: laying with moisture-resistant plywood. Sheets of plywood are cut into squares with a length and width of 50 or 75 cm. The thickness of the sheets is at least 12 mm.

Moisture-resistant plywood is laid for:

• protection against deformation;
• perfect leveling of the base;
• heat and sound insulation;
• strength.

Plywood is the basis for fastening wooden parquet strips. The screed of the top layer can deteriorate over time, and if the planks are laid directly on the screed, they may fall off. Plywood holds the parquet planks very firmly.

Thickness parquet board should be 5 mm greater than the thickness of the plywood. If plywood sheets are thinner than 12 mm, lay two layers.

Plywood sheets are laid on a base coated with glue, pressed well and secured with self-tapping screws or dowels. To avoid deformation of the coating, small gaps are left between the sheets, as well as near the wall.

Preparing a concrete base with installing joists

If it is not possible to perform a screed concrete covering, you can make the floor on joists. At the first stage, waterproofing of the concrete base is carried out. Then wooden beams - logs - are laid at a distance of 35 to 40 cm. The logs are secured to the floor with corners and dowels. For horizontal alignment, place wooden coasters. Plywood is nailed onto the prepared joists. The plywood is secured at the edges and in the middle with self-tapping screws. Plywood sheets are also laid with a gap.

Preparing the wooden base

IN wooden floor there should be no holes, rotten boards or failures. The boards should also not creak. If there are defects, they will need to be corrected. After repair, the surface of the wooden floor must be sanded. Parquet is laid directly on a flat and prepared wooden floor.

Laying strip parquet

There are a few different ways styling:

Floating method

Before laying the parquet, the base of the floor is covered with soundproofing material. Parquet planks are assembled using a tongue and groove system. They are not attached to the base. This installation allows the planks to expand and contract as climate conditions change. The coating is easy to repair; you can simply disassemble and reassemble.

Disadvantage: questionable strength. If at least one connection becomes loose, the entire coating will deform.

Installation with glue

The strength of such a coating is much greater than that of the floating method. But repairing such a coating is more difficult. Before laying the planks, lubricate the base with glue. Parquet planks are laid with glue using a tongue-and-groove system.

Disadvantage: the process is labor-intensive and additional costs for glue.

Laying parquet using glue, nails or screws

This is the most durable method. The coating does not deform over time.

Disadvantage: repair is not possible. But, as a rule, there is no need for repairs, since the coating is durable.

Various options for laying parquet

Various patterns can be laid out from parquet planks. To do this, the planks are placed in different sequences and at different angles. There are many installation methods:

• Deck. Easy installation method. Parquet planks are laid parallel, with the planks offset by half or one third. In some cases, they are laid with a French run, using planks of unequal length and without a fixed offset. This parquet looks very unusual and playful.

• Herringbone. The method is quite complicated; the rows must be almost perfectly even. There are many options for herringbone laying: straight and diagonal, double straight and diagonal, French, with a transverse insert, from different types of wood and others. All herringbone designs look beautiful and presentable. With proper installation, the coating is durable and does not deform during use for many years.

• Network. Relatively simple parquet pattern. But the result is a beautiful geometry, although without sophistication. When using light planks and dark wood planks, the design looks three-dimensional.

• Chess. The pattern is obtained by alternating squares in which the planks are placed in different directions. In the light, the squares appear different in color. It turns out very beautiful.

• Diamonds. Artistic styling option. Requires trimming, which increases the number of parquet planks and, accordingly, leads to additional costs. The planks are laid in three directions. The drawing turns out to be voluminous and original.

Example of laying herringbone parquet

Before starting installation, it is best to draw a design on paper, taking into account the area of ​​the room and the size of the planks. The rows of the pattern should be whole in the center, and cut off at the edges.

Stages of laying herringbone parquet:

• Mark the room, find the middle and stretch the cord from wall to wall: this will help you navigate and not stray from the intended line.
• Connect two parquet strips using a tongue-and-groove herringbone connection. Apply glue to the planks.
• Use a notched trowel to coat the plywood base from the far wall.
• Attach the first assembled planks to the plywood: the left edge of the planks should press the cord against the plywood. The right edge rests against the rope.
• Press the planks firmly onto the plywood. Excess glue should squeeze out.
• Secure the planks with self-tapping screws or nails, recessing the caps.

The tenon of the plank should be positioned towards the master during installation.

• Next, lay according to the same scheme: coat the area under the plank with glue, attach the plank and insert it into the grooves of the already laid plank using a rubber hammer. Secure with self-tapping screws.
• After the central row, lay the row on the left, then on the right. Continue working up to the walls.
• If necessary, cut the planks at the walls.

It is imperative to leave a small gap between the wall and the outermost row. For convenience, use special wedges.

The glue should dry well. Therefore, you can walk on such a surface after a week, and it is recommended to place furniture after at least a month. If possible, listen to the advice of experts: move in after six months. During this time, the parquet will take its final position.

Sanding block parquet

For flat surface To remove possible defects that appeared after work, the parquet must be sanded. Sanding can be done with a regular grinder and an emery wheel. But it’s best to use a special grinding machine. Sanding is carried out several times. The first two times work with coarse grain to remove large irregularities. For the third time, fine grains are used when grinding, achieving the removal of roughness and ideal smoothness. After work, thoroughly vacuum the room.

Puttying and priming

At this stage, the entire floor must be puttied with wood putty and, after drying, sanded with fine grain. Excess putty is removed. Thoroughly vacuum the floor and coat it with primer.

Opening the floor with varnish

Varnish will help protect parquet from mechanical stress and adverse climatic conditions. The floor is varnished three to nine times. The more layers, the better. The varnish can be chosen glossy or matte. After covering with glossy varnish, the coating shines, the design is emphasized, and the room looks bright. Matte varnish creates a cozy atmosphere, but reduces the brightness of the design. The varnish is applied with a roller to the entire area at once. Drying time for the first layer is from 24 to 36 hours.

While drying the varnish, do not open windows, doors or turn on the air conditioner. No drafts!

Each subsequent layer of varnish is also applied with a roller after the previous layer has completely dried. The outermost layer dries for at least a week. It is recommended to move furniture in after a month, not earlier.

Laying parquet with your own hands is not a very cheap process, although the services of a professional will cost many times more. The most important thing is the result: you get a durable, elegant, noble coating and feel proud that such a beautiful floor was made by your own hands. The main thing is to be patient and not to be afraid. Good luck in your work!

Laying parquet with your own hands: rules for preparing the base and work technology

No matter how the developers of innovative flooring try to improve the material, the eye of a reasonable residential property owner invariably turns to parquet and solid classics. Despite the enormous number of advanced achievements in this area, the question of how to properly lay parquet with your own hands is still relevant. After all, the number of home craftsmen who are trying to lay an amazing patterned floor from wooden planks on their own has not yet ceased and is unlikely to cease.

The main secrets of laying parquet

Parquet flooring is a complex structure consisting of one or more underlying layers and a top covering made of wooden blocks. Dies are also called planks, parquet flooring or staves. They are represented by wooden elements of a predominantly rectangular configuration in plan, front and profile. Along the perimeter the dies are equipped with grooves and ridges for fastening.

Observable components of a parquet floor

The material for parquet flooring can be supplied not only in the form of rectangular planks. On sale are ready-made panels with parquet floor fragments assembled on a coniferous base and modules fastened on top using the principle of ceramic mosaic with cardboard or paper.

Base hidden from view

The number and technical characteristics of the underlying elements depend on the type and condition of the rough foundation, which most often includes:

• concrete floors: precast or monolithic floors with or without screed;
• wooden beams with joists installed for laying the flooring;
• a plank floor, the floorboards of which, after repair and sanding, serve as a rough base.

According to the instructions of SNiP number 3.04.01-87, it is allowed to lay rivets or finished parquet panels on a prepared base. Within 2 meters of the completed preparation, deviations in height of no more than 2 mm can be recorded. Those. when installing a 2-meter strip on a subfloor in an arbitrary vector direction, the maximum clearance between this control device and the surface can be only 2 mm, preferably less. The slope is permissible, but its size is limited by the same reference book: max 0.2%, not exceeding 5 cm.

The primary goal of a DIY parquet installer is to form a rough subfloor that meets technical requirements. The number and type of upcoming operations determines the material from which it is made. rough base, and degree of wear.

Objectives of using moisture-resistant plywood

The second stage, the result of which you will admire and show off, consists of individually laying the elements on the prepared base. Top layer of preparation according to the prevailing majority technological schemes is a moisture-resistant plywood substrate because it:

• serves as a reliable module for fastening small-caliber parquet floor rivets;
• compensates for the difference in temperature expansion of the concrete base and wood covering;
• eliminates the leakage of moisture from the ceiling and from the subfloor, which can render expensive natural material unusable;
• performs the function of a cutting element in the case of a floating floor;
• plays the role of a leveling layer.

If it is possible or necessary to reduce the height of ceilings by 5 cm or more, you can simply purchase sets of adjustable floors with the Knauf brand and carry out the preparation for both concrete and wood in one day. Products from the same manufacturer should be used if dry leveling with expanded clay as insulation is to be carried out over a cold basement.

This means that we have found out that plywood should be used. There are plenty of ways to level it with its help. Let's forget for a moment about the existence of factory kits for dry screed and look at budget preparation options, the implementation of which will require inexpensive building materials and our own efforts.

Three preparation options

The quality of leveling carried out before installing a parquet floor affects the number of finishing operations and the service life of the coating. Those who want to lay parquet flooring reliably and aesthetically with their own hands should know that due to defects in the base:

• the ridges of the parquet flooring will become loose, crack, and break after a very short period of time;
• the floor will creak mercilessly;
• additional grinding will have to be carried out, thinning the working layer of the material. As a result, the number of scraping and sanding operations required for subsequent restoration of the parquet floor is reduced.

To avoid such unsightly consequences, let's look at how the three types of bases for parquet are leveled.

Conditions and schemes for pouring screed

The screed is poured mainly to eliminate defects in concrete floors:

• Height differences and defects within 1-2 cm are removed by grinding the concrete floor followed by pouring either cement-sand or polymer leveling mortar. Before installing the screed, the base is primed twice with a penetrating compound. A two-component polyurethane primer will stabilize and strengthen the top layers of the subfloor and act as a waterproofing agent.
• For defects of more than 2 cm, the leveling layer will need to be re-filled with the installation of polyethylene as a waterproofing and cut-off layer. From strips of polyethylene you need to build a kind of pallet with 10-centimeter sides. Because the thickness of the layer is usually 3-4 cm, it is mainly used for leveling sand-cement mixtures with reinforcement. It is more economical and convenient to reinforce with polypropylene fiber, but you can also use mesh.

The cement-sand leveling layer under the parquet should harden for at least 4 weeks. According to rounded popular calculations, 1 week is allotted for hardening 1 cm of screed. Upon completion of the specified period, you should also not rush into installation if you plan to attach the dies directly to the leveling layer. You need to wait more than 5-6, or even better, 7 weeks, until moisture stops escaping from the screed.

There is no need to wait for complete hardening if moisture-resistant plywood is laid on top of the fill. 28 days are enough, and it can be fastened with self-tapping screws or dowel nails to a leveled floor. For this purpose, sheets of plywood are cut into 4 parts and laid at intervals according to the principle of brickwork. Cut to minimize expansion and eliminate undulations. Gaps of 2-3 mm are left between the quartered segments for linear compression and expansion. The hardware caps are recessed 3-5 mm into the plywood so as not to later damage the grinding machine disc.

Attention. If, in addition to self-tapping screws, glue is also used to fix plywood sheets to the screed, it is recommended to purchase it with the same brand and properties as the primer to optimize adhesion.

When using glue, the process of laying parquet on a plywood base will need to be postponed. You will have to wait for the curing period specified by the manufacturer for the binder. After that, the plywood preparation is sanded along the seams in order to remove differences in height of adjacent sheets, as well as dirt and factory flaws.

Between the walls and the plywood layer around the perimeter you need to leave a technological gap of 0.9 - 1.2 cm. It is formed using spacer wedges. The spacers are not removed until the parquet flooring is completely laid. Only upon completion of installation should they be pulled out and the gap created by the wedges filled with polyurethane foam to prevent further moisture from getting onto the side faces. The foamed seam is covered with a plinth on top.

Attention. The plinth is attached only to the walls; its slats do not fit tightly with the parquet. There should be at least 1 mm between the parquet flooring and the baseboard.

Logs as a method of leveling

It is also the dry screed method, which allows you to avoid stretching out the floor construction process for many months due to long technological interruptions. To construct a log system under plywood, timber with sides of 4 and 5 cm is used. The work is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• Install logs every 30 cm, fasten them with screws or corners to a concrete or wooden rough base. Between the ends of the beam and the walls you need to leave a traditional gap for linear expansion.
• Level in a horizontal plane by adding sand if the rough base is made of concrete, by placing wedges, roofing felt or parchment inserts if the base is made of wood. The excess is cut off with a plane.
• In the plywood cut into 4 equal parts, 9 holes are drilled in advance, through which they are fastened to the joists with self-tapping screws. The principle of brick laying is observed by default, as is the deformation offset around the perimeter. No cross connections are allowed.
• By analogy, the second layer of plywood base is constructed. Only quartered sheets are laid offset so that the seams of the first row do not coincide with the seams of the second. The first layer of plywood is treated with primer, then with glue. Then screws are screwed in, the size of which depends on the total thickness of the plywood layer.
• After the glue has dried, sanding is performed.

The plywood backing is laid on the joists in two layers, the total height of which should be approximately 30 mm. The thickness of the plywood laid on the screed is determined by the thickness of the parquet flooring. Usually it is 5 mm smaller than the equivalent parquet size.

Preparing the plank floor

It consists of repairing and sanding the floorboards if their thickness after processing with a sanding unit does not become less than 30 mm. Otherwise, the boards will have to be dismantled and laid new material, on top of which the parquet strips will be attached.

If the board simply replaces the first layer of plywood, its thickness combined with the thickness of the substrate may not exceed 3 cm. And it can be laid with centimeter gaps to ensure ventilation and temperature movement.

Note. Primer for glue wooden floors It is advisable to choose one with antistatic properties.

Technological procedure for laying parquet

Parquet installers have a lot of options for laying out the tiles: from the simplest “deck” with a herringbone pattern to complex artistic designs with mosaic modules and borders. In anticipation of the work, a layout plan is drawn up, which can be directed along any of the walls or at a 45º angle. It is recommended to start corner laying from the central row. You should do the same if you don’t get whole rows of the selected pattern.

To orient the first row, they construct something like a mooring cord. Two nails are driven into the plywood on opposite sides of the row planned for laying, and a fishing line is pulled over them.

It is not forbidden to use one-component glue, but it is better to spend money and buy a two-component one. It will definitely not emit water harmful to the parquet.

In principle, the technology for laying parquet is not at all complicated; it consists of sequentially performing the following steps:

• the prepared surface is carefully covered with soil;
• glue is applied with a spatula-comb small area, because the binder dries extremely quickly;
• A pre-assembled fragment of two or three dies is placed on the glue, taking into account the mooring reference. Parquet flooring is glued with some effort. Excess glue squeezed out from under the parquet flooring should be removed immediately;
• Each installed plank can be secured with two or three nails or studs through the ridge. Hammer the hardware at an angle of 45º. The nail heads should be sunk into the ridge with a parquet tamper. Parquet flooring can be fixed through three elements;
• the fully laid parquet is left for the period of glue curing;
• then they sand in two or more steps, changing the sanding paper at each stage to an analogue one with smaller grain sizes. Grind until the defects that appeared during work are cut off;
• open with stain if there is a desire to change the color of the floor, then with varnish in 3-9 layers.

There are many intricacies in the technology of constructing a parquet floor. However, there is nothing prohibitively difficult. Of course, the first time parquet is laid will hardly look like the floors in Versailles, but it’s worth a try. What if it turns out better?

How to lay parquet boards

Parquet board - beautiful coating, which is as close as possible in appearance to parquet, but devoid of its disadvantages. Firstly, due to multi-layering, the problem with cracking is solved. Secondly, the cost is much lower. Thirdly, the material comes immediately with finishing. Immediately after installation, the floor is ready for use. No need to sand, varnish or wax. Everything has already been done at the factory. And, the best part, laying parquet boards with your own hands is not much more difficult than laying laminate flooring, and everyone can do it. So you can try. We have prepared instructions for you.

What is parquet board, its types and installation methods

Parquet board - multilayer material for finishing the floor. In appearance it is very similar to parquet, and made from expensive types of wood. This is because the top layer is made of beautiful and even valuable species wood At the same time, they choose beautiful saw cuts. True, there are different collections, and their “beauty” differs. The elite brand uses ideal wood without knots. For rustic brands, on the contrary, some of the boards are made with a “twist”. They are also emphasized by processing - brushing, using certain compositions for finishing. Not varnishes, but oils and waxes. There are also intermediate options, so you can choose for any type of interior.

Methods for laying parquet boards depend on its appearance

A parquet board is assembled from several types of wood, which are glued in a special way. Multi-layering is necessary to ensure stable size and give high strength to the material. The bottom and middle layer is usually pine or other conifers. The castle is made of beech - it is relatively inexpensive and durable. A layer of wood with a beautiful texture is glued on top. This whole cake is covered with layers of impregnation, wax or varnish. Thus, a parquet board does not cost as much as piece parquet, but it looks very similar.

Parquet board structure

There are two types of parquet boards:

• with locks - for installation without gluing (floating floor);
  • if it starts at 45°, it does not stick;
  • If the locks are hammered, you can glue them.
• without locks - mounted with gluing to the base.

Recently, there are fewer and fewer collections without locks. It's easier to get with locks monolithic coating no gaps.

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet boards with locks

The interlocking parquet board is placed on a soundproofing substrate. It is not attached to the base by anything, but simply spreads out. A parquet board is laid on top of it - just on top, without fixing. The coating dies are held together by locks. This installation method is called floating. What's good about it? Because if the board is damaged, the floor can be rebuilt. This time. The fact that it is quick and easy to install. That's two. If laying parquet boards with your own hands has interested you for the first time, try this installation method first.

What are the disadvantages of the floating method of laying parquet boards? The fact is that the strength and reliability of the coating depend on the quality of the locks. There is a possibility that the connection will fail. The second point is that the locks have a protective impregnation, but it is less reliable than the front surface, which is coated with 5-7 protective layers. Therefore, if moisture gets into the joint, the wood may swell.

This is what the castle looks like in most collections

But the good thing about laying parquet boards is that you can play it safe. Gluing the joint means losing all the benefits of floating installation. So this is not the best option, although they do it this way. Using sealant is no better. It holds the connection roughly like glue, but due to its thicker texture it can interfere with a normal connection.

A good solution is to additionally coat the joints with wood wax. And moisture resistance will increase, and nothing will interfere with the connection. By the way, some manufacturers of expensive lines themselves impregnate the locks with wax. But this is not such an expensive composition and not such complex processing, and it significantly increases water resistance.

What is good about laying with glue?

Gluing the parquet board to the base creates a monolithic coating. The joints of the fragments are filled with glue, that is, they do not allow water to pass through. Moisture is not a problem for such a floor (in small quantities and removed in a timely manner). Another point that can be attributed to the advantages is that the coating turns out to be “hard” and does not “play” underfoot. That sagging feeling that often occurs with floating decking is not everyone's cup of tea.

The main disadvantage of laying parquet boards with glue is the inability to replace a damaged fragment. No matter how hard you try, something falls on the floor and spills. After several such cases, significant damage remains. As luck would have it, they are in the most visible place, and the glued fragment is not so easy to replace.

Glue is applied to the base, and a parquet board is laid on it

The second disadvantage is the lack of a substrate. For high-rise buildings this can be a significant disadvantage. The substrate not only compensates for micro-irregularities in the base, it is also a soundproofing material. The absence of a substrate means a higher noise level, and the neighbors are unlikely to like this. The situation is better if you lay the parquet board on plywood, and not directly on the screed. You can lay underlayment or any other soundproofing material under the plywood.

Laying technology: sequence of layers

Parquet boards of any type are laid on a flat base. Even - this is with a deviation of 2 mm per 2 meters of coverage. This is the basic requirement of any manufacturer. But they level the ground different ways: using screed, leveling mixtures or plywood. It all depends on the degree of curvature of the surface and what kind of floor needs to be leveled.

Laying parquet boards with your own hands begins with preparing the base. Differences are checked using the two-meter rule

On the screed

You can lay parquet boards on the screed using the floating method. That is, this is an option with locks. If the screed is poured evenly and sanded, after priming it can be applied to glue.

If the base is a concrete slab, it is usually leveled using leveling mixtures. They are selected depending on the existing deviations. Please note that before laying the parquet board, the screed must stand for at least 30 days. If self-leveling leveling compounds were used, they indicate when the topcoat can be applied. Be sure to adhere to deadlines. When laid on a damp base, the wood will swell, which will affect its appearance. And it’s not a fact that it will come back after drying. And this is not a warranty case.

Diagonal laying of parquet boards requires large stock material

All this is true and correct, but vapor barrier is necessary only when the screed can have high humidity. If the installation of parquet boards is carried out on the second floor of a private house, in a high-rise apartment above the 1st floor, and there is a dry living space below you, a vapor barrier is not needed. Is there a bathtub, toilet, kitchen, basement underneath your room? Vapor barrier is required. If there are living rooms below, immediately lay the underlay on the base, and not the parquet board. In this case, the vapor barrier layer is simply unnecessary.

The technology for laying parquet boards on a screed requires the presence of a vapor barrier and a backing

Laying parquet boards in a floating manner requires a backing. This is a loose material that acts as a vapor barrier and increases sound absorption. Usually they try to use either pressed technical cork or materials based on it. As an economical option, you can use a laminate underlay.

On plywood

You can level the floor under the parquet board with plywood. It is quite rigid and smooth. Its thickness is at least 8 mm (more is possible), it is better to take moisture resistant one. If plywood is placed on a rigid base - a screed, the sheets are laid entirely. The sheets should not be laid end-to-end, but maintaining a technological gap of 5-7 mm. When laying out plywood, make sure that the joints of the rows do not coincide. That is, they lay the second row with a shift of at least 50 cm relative to the seams of the first row.

Plywood is laid with the seams shifted

When laying on an unstable base - along joists, on a subfloor - plywood is laid in two layers. The seams of the top layer should not coincide with the seams of the bottom layer. They can be fastened together with self-tapping screws, but glue can also be used.

In the top layer, it is better to cut the plywood sheets into smaller fragments. They are usually divided into four parts. These small sheets must also be fastened with respect to the gaps and bandaging (mismatch) of the seams. This method - using small sheets - makes the seams shorter. This reduces the chance of significant stress developing, which could cause the floor to crack. Well, and one more thing. When laying out the parquet boards, try to lay them so that the seams do not coincide with the seams on the plywood backing. And if they are nearby, then at least at a distance of 5 cm. To ensure that the seam does not overlap the seam, the plywood is unrolled.

• When laying parquet boards directly, plywood is laid diagonally.
• With a diagonal pattern, plywood is laid along the walls.

This is what is meant - different directions seams

This technique is used when assembling parquet. It is required there. But if the parquet board is small in size and the base floor is not very stable, this will not hurt either. At least it takes more time.

Is it possible to level the floor with plywood before laying interlocking parquet boards? Can. Just don't necessarily cut the sheets. It doesn’t matter how to level it for floating installation of parquet boards. As long as the base is level and dry.

Step-by-step instructions for installation using the floating method

As has already been said, the main condition high-quality styling parquet board - a flat base. A vapor barrier is laid on it (if needed), and a substrate is placed on it. The underlay is not attached to the floor, but is simply rolled out from one wall to another. You shouldn’t spread out the entire backing at once: it’s better not to walk on it. When you have laid the covering on the first strip, roll out the second, fasten them and continue laying.

Don't forget that the flooring should not touch the walls. A compensation gap of 1 cm is left between it and the wall. This gap is made along the perimeter of the room. In order to maintain this distance, wedges or simply pieces of material 1 cm thick are used. After laying the covering is completed, the spacers are removed and the gap is closed with a plinth.

There are a few more rules that must be followed. First. Before installation, it is necessary for the material to sit in the room for several days (at least two). During this time, it will accept “working” humidity and temperature. If you lay the parquet board right away, gaps may appear later. Second. Laying parquet boards begins with cleaning the base. Remove debris and clean with a vacuum cleaner. If it is a screed, make sure it is not dusty. If dust rises, primer treatment is required deep penetration. Better in two layers. After drying, you can begin the actual work.

How to cut parquet boards

Ideally, have a miter saw. Then the cuts will be even, and it will take very little time. If you don’t have such a tool in your arsenal, anything you can use to cut wood will do:

• Hacksaw with wood blade.
• Jigsaw.
• An ordinary jigsaw.

You can cut with a jigsaw, grinder with a wood disc

If you are a master at using an angle grinder, you can use it too. But the cuts made with all these tools will not be perfect. They are not suitable for docking. Only for trimming the last boards in a row.

How to start laying and how to join the lamellas

In general, laying parquet boards is very similar to laying laminate flooring. The locking system is almost identical. The difference is that The first row of parquet boards should be laid with the groove facing the wall, and the spike - into the middle of the room. Exactly. And when rallying you need to knock on the lower part. According to the third that is at the very bottom. Why is that? Because this way you definitely won’t damage the decorative layer and won’t crumple the lock. If there are some marks left on the bottom, it's not a big deal, but the nicks on the top layer will be visible. As you understand, a damaged groove will be a problem for normal joining.

When joining a parquet board, we apply force to the lowest layer

Locks can be different shapes, but always try to hit the very bottom layer. For this purpose, manufacturers offer installation kits. There is a block with the required parameters, but you can make one from a piece of an ordinary board. True, this part will have to be modified. Take a piece about 20 cm long and select a quarter. A quarter is needed with special parameters.

• The recess should be longer than the lock.
• The thickness of the protrusion should go under the tenon and rest against the bottom of the board.

A piece of parquet board will also work, but when working, it will need to be turned the other way. It will be suitable in thickness, but the upper third, if there is one, is better to cut off/break off, leaving only the lower part. Quite comfortable, but not that durable.

So, the installation of the parquet boards has begun. The first step has been taken. What you need to remember are two rules:

1. The first board is placed in the right corner, with the groove facing the wall.
2. The gap between the wall and the board is set using wedges.

We also tap at the end

Can we start from the other side? Can. But this is not as convenient and takes more time. Sometimes they start laying parquet boards from the middle of the room. This is if you need to lay it in two rooms without a joint. Then one part is placed with a tenon, the other with a groove forward. It's more difficult and longer, but otherwise it can be an ugly transition.

You can start from the middle

Continuation of installation

In general, in order for the parquet board flooring to be durable, the second row begins with a trimmed board. For each collection, the amount of trimming is recommended by the manufacturer. The general rule is that it is better to space the joints at a distance of at least 30 cm. Some collections - with a wider board - should be at a distance of 50 cm. In general, we look at the manufacturers' recommendations, but you need to start the second row exactly from the trimmed element.

The locks of parquet boards from different manufacturers can vary greatly, so installation instructions with pictures or photographs are usually included in each pack. But general rules The laying of parquet boards remains approximately as follows:

The first row is laid along the right wall. Only the short sides are joined in it. It is not difficult. We bring the second board at an angle of about 45 degrees, align the lock, and lower the fragment to the floor. With a slight click it snaps into place. In order for the fragments to connect as tightly as possible, you need to tap a little on the free end.

You can first assemble along the long side, then snap the lock on the end

The last piece in a row is usually cut off. When pruning, do not forget that there should be at least 1 cm of free space from the wall.

When laying subsequent rows, the short side is connected first. The stacked fragment moves as if on rails close to the previous board, the lock is aligned and installed in place. Tap each new piece on the side so that there are no gaps.

There are models of locks (Quick Step, for example), in which it is easier to first connect the long side, and then move the board and connect the end. Others, on the contrary - it is easier to assemble the lamella in full length, joining the ends, and then in one movement connect it with the already laid row. So there are several techniques.

To ensure that the joints between the rows are as tight as possible, after laying each row, it is adjusted using a block. They tap on each board, checking the connection not only visually, but also by touch. In some collections, due to the texture, the gaps during installation are invisible. But then, during operation, they appear. Please note that not all types of locks require tapping. If the connection goes well, there are no gaps, you can do without a block.

Laying the last row

The last row in the room requires cutting the fragment to length. Since rooms rarely have ideal geometry, each board in a row must be trimmed separately. At the same time, we remember about the technological gap.

Joining the edge parquet board

Trimming by trimming, but how to fit the boards of the last row tightly? There is a special plate in the shape of the letter Z. It is also called “addition”. One edge of it is hooked to the edge of the board, and the other is hit with a hammer. The bar is pressed.

As you can see, laying parquet flooring using a floating method is not too difficult. If you have at least a little experience with laminate, it will be easier. No? And that's not a problem. It is quite possible to cope on your own and without experience.

Features of installation with glue

Glue, of course, is needed for parquet. It is applied immediately before laying the board. Apply thin layer under the comb. The size of the tooth is indicated in the recommendations, but usually it is 3-4 mm. The base can be screed or plywood. There may be other sheet materials if you think they are better.

The instructions for laying parquet boards with glue are similar, only after assembling the row, the base needs to be coated with glue and the covering must be laid

The technology for laying parquet boards remains the same. Only the entire row is assembled first; if trimming is needed somewhere (columns, protrusions), it is done “dry”. Only then is glue applied to the base - exactly the width of the board - and the fragment is placed. The laid and adjusted boards are pressed with a load. It is advisable to press each row - this will guarantee that the parquet will be glued firmly. After the setting time has passed, the load can be removed. You don’t have to interrupt your work while the glue dries. The load lies on the laid boards and does not interfere with the process.

Now laying parquet boards with your own hands using glue will not be a problem.

Do-it-yourself parquet installation step-by-step instructions

Parquet as a floor covering has been known for several centuries. It becomes a sign of luxury and wealth. Castles of the Middle Ages abounded in interiors with parquet floors. The world-famous Palace of Versailles has preserved halls with parquet flooring laid in the 17th century. But the years passed, and parquet became available to everyone who wants to decorate their interior a little.

Characteristics of block parquet

The wear layer of piece parquet is 6-10mm, which is significantly greater than in a parquet board (the wear layer in a parquet board very rarely exceeds 6mm). Small geometric dimensions allow you to create various techniques laying and patterns, right down to artistic parquet.

The use of small planks without tenons has made it possible to successfully use parquet when laying heated floors.

Methods for laying block parquet

Roughly speaking, there are two ways to lay block parquet.

• floating method - without connecting the parquet to the base;
• for glue - using various adhesives.

All other methods are particulars that originate from these two.

Floating method

The floating method of laying parquet involves laying parquet planks using the tongue-and-groove technology on the base without fastening to it. When installing in this way, you must remember to change temperature regime and humidity. To do this, during installation, a gap is left between the coating and the wall - an expansion joint.

The floating installation method allows you to easily replace any damaged area of ​​parquet.

Installation with glue

Laying parquet with glue requires more labor and installation time. It is also necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of glue. For each base, be it concrete, tile, wood, there are different types and brands of glue. Parquet manufacturers also offer their recommendations on the choice of adhesive. It should be remembered that additional treatment of the base with a specialized primer will improve the adhesion of the glue to the base and will facilitate reliable fastening of the lamellas.

Warm floor and parquet

A “disease” that has affected many builders and owners in recent decades country houses, characterized as a warm floor. Regardless of whether it is electric or water, parquet manufacturers are wary of it and do not always allow their products to be used over a heated floor. In these cases, the consumer may lose the warranty.

Changes in humidity, temperature, even a hot summer sunny day, have a complex effect on the condition of the coating. As you know, wood tends to dry out and swell, changing its geometric dimensions. For hard wood, this parameter will be:

• with tangential cutting – 8-12%;
• with radial – 5-8%;
• along the fibers - does not change size.

But still, what to do: I want a warm floor and parquet too. The parquet production technology has not stopped either, and here we found necessary solution– industrial or industrial parquet. The small width of the individual lamella and the absence of tongue-and-groove technology ensure the reliability of the parquet covering for heated floors.

At small overall dimensions With one lamella (up to 20mm), the human eye is not able to notice a change in the geometric dimensions of the lamella - they amount to up to 0.4mm. This ensures the reliability and durability of the coating.

Wood is a good heat insulator, worse than polystyrene foam, stone or mineral wool, but still much better than concrete, tiles and ceramic tiles. When laying on a warm floor, this property of the wood must be reduced as much as possible. In this case, the thickness of the parquet lamella directly affects the floor temperature. The lower it is, the better. The optimal thickness is 8-10mm. With such a thickness, the maximum service life of the parquet will be maintained and there will be maximum heat transfer from the heated floor.

Choosing an adhesive for laying parquet on a heated floor

The use of heated floors is becoming more and more popular every year. Coating manufacturers often do not recommend using their products in combination with warm floors, otherwise the warranty will be removed from the product. There are manufacturers who allow the use of their products with heated floors.

In this case, the problem arises of choosing adhesive for parquet using a heated floor. Many glue manufacturers write on the cans that the glue can be used for heated floors, while adding in small letters that the base temperature should not exceed 18-25°C. Would it occur to you to install a heated floor with a temperature of +25°C? I think no.

Before laying parquet on a heated floor, it is necessary to check the quality of the screed. The moisture content of the screed should be below 1.8%, the compressive strength should be 30 MPa or more, the surface should be leveled with differences of no more than 2 mm per 2 m.

The MK-92 glue has proven itself to be the most effective. German manufacturer"UZIN". This is a two-component polyurethane adhesive that does not contain solvent or water. Suitable for all types of wood, has great elasticity, does not shrink even in thick layers. When used strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions, it can withstand temperatures up to +65°C under an electric heated floor.

The disadvantage of the glue is the short lifespan of the composition, up to 60 minutes after mixing the components, which increases the number of batches when laying parquet. The UZIN company also offers its consumers frost-resistant glue MK-250 it is used for installation in periodically freezing rooms.

Parquet adhesive Artelit PB-140 is a two-component polyurethane adhesive that can withstand temperatures of +40-45°C, can be used for installation on water and electric heated floors. The maximum setting time for the mixture is up to 15 minutes.

ARTELIT NV-810 adhesive is one-component, hybrid, does not contain water, isocyanates and solvents, ideal for installing parquet boards, has great elasticity, setting time up to 90 minutes.

• water-based adhesives;
• dispersion adhesives;
• epoxy-polyurethane adhesives.

After installation, the parquet is not varnished, but coated with mineral oil and wax, which gives the coating an even richer appearance.