Drainage system. How to properly install a sewer system in a private house? Do-it-yourself installation of an autonomous sewer system in a private house: video and recommendations

Toilets in nature are becoming a thing of the past over time, and the comfortable amenities of our modern times should please everyone. People living in a private house, into which it is impossible to drain water, often dream about the benefits of civilization. But ordering services for installing an autonomous sewer system is not a cheap pleasure. Not everyone knows how easy it is to make a sewer system in a private house with your own hands.

For the correct functionality of an autonomous sewer system in a private house, it is necessary to understand many factors, know the existing nuances and do the installation yourself according to sanitary rules and regulations. When preparing a drainage system diagram, you need to carefully study the layout of a particular building. Also, you should take into account the location of the premises where the inflow and outflow of water will occur. The ideal solution would be if all internal equipment is connected to one pipe. Which will drain water into a septic tank or into a drainage pit.

In a competent design scheme for the layout of a pipeline system, you should calculate the slope of the pipes used. If the slope is incorrectly calculated, inconvenience and unnecessary expenses may occur. The slope when installing internal and external pipelines will differ.

The slope angle is responsible for changing the position of the pipe on the surface, relative to the horizon line. A large slope is only possible on short sections. There are simple methods for determining the slope of a pipe. But to install an autonomous sewer system in a private house with your own hands, it will be difficult to calculate the correct slope of the pipes. It is important that the calculation of the slope in a private house is carried out using a non-calculation method.

Correct installation of the internal sewerage network in a private house

To lay internal sewerage, it is important to take into account the location of other water consumers and the size of the premises. All plumbing facilities can be connected to the water supply.

Installation diagram of internal autonomous sewage system:

Installation diagram of external autonomous sewage system

Pipe laying process

A very difficult and responsible process in installing an autonomous sewer system with your own hands is laying pipes. This process requires assistants, since independent work will affect not only the speed of the process, but also its quality.

When installing a sewer system with your own hands, it is important to calculate the depth of the pipes. Because the functionality of your pipeline depends on the depth.

It is necessary to remember the exact angle of inclination of the pipes. The volume of the pipe in a system without pressure determines its slope. To ensure the desired slope, you need to install different places in the pipeline in different ways.

Correct pipe routing and riser installation

To prevent the pipe from freezing in winter, it needs to be insulated. To do this, it should be taken out into an asbestos-cement pipe, having previously been wrapped with heat-insulating material.

What is a cesspool for?

A cesspool, in other words, is a well without a bottom. When installing a pipeline with your own hands, it is possible to leave soil instead of the bottom and lay out the walls from brick or concrete. Once in the pit, wastewater is filtered from feces and solid waste and seeps into the ground. Waste deposited at the depth of the pit must be removed over time.

You can use a cesspool provided that the water flow per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. meters. Wastewater penetrating to the bottom depth will be treated by microorganisms. If the rules are not followed, they will not have time to process it and contamination of sources near the cesspool will occur.

Special pumps for removing sewage

Pumps in the drainage system of a private house should be installed if the drains of your plumbing are below ground level. Also, pumps should be used if the distance to the drainage pit or septic tank is too large.
Pumps (also known as solofilters) are used to eliminate household sewage that flows from the house into the depths of the cesspool. They are the most economical way, and also effective.

How it is possible to arrange drainage of wastewater from a basement or basement, two options:

• Firstly, you need to install a pump, with output to a gravity system and with rise to the required height;
• Secondly, install a container for sewage. Then carry out the wiring into the cesspool from the private home sewerage system.

There are a large number of pumps on the market, you just need to choose the one that suits your parameters.

Pump operation stages:

1. When the water rises, the built-in sensors are triggered and turn on the pump.
2. Particles falling from the toilet are collected in a basket at the depth of the well.
3. The pump has a built-in special mechanism that grinds the trapped particles to the size of passage through the basket opening.
4. Pumps suck in liquid along with solid particles and raise them to the desired height.

Proper plumbing connection

Plumbing connection diagram:

The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of operation, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the elaboration of the project. The graphic part of the design documentation, in accordance with which a sewer system is installed in a private house with your own hands - a diagram of the location of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information about regulatory requirements and the main problems in drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for selecting sewerage equipment and features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

• TKP 45-4.01-51-2007“Water supply and sewerage systems for residential estates”;
• SanPiN 42-128-4690-88“Sanitary rules for the maintenance of populated areas”;
• SanPiN 4630“Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution”;
• SNiP 30-02-97“Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”

When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Septic tanks and cesspools cannot be located closer than 4 m to the border of a neighbor’s property and 15 m to drinking water.

The diagram must describe the mechanism for connecting internal and external sewerage systems, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, and its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part must be linked to the plan of the house and garden plot, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Influencing Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water flow, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

• Volume of salvo release— peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, occurs in the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
• Wastewater treatment plant performance. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for removing treated wastewater is selected:

1. up to 5 m 3 /day – discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
2. up to 0.3 m 3 /day – periodic removal by special vehicle is allowed;
3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by its quantity, but also by the degree of purification in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

• M material for the manufacture of treatment facilities: , fiberglass, metal, various polymers ( , polyethylene). The design of the structure, installation method, further maintenance and operation depend on the technical characteristics of the material;
• Providing power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment plants are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
• Construction site topology– terrain, slope direction, proximity of water bodies and the presence of potential discharge sites for treated sewage water;
• Geodesy of the construction site– the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost of installation work, the need for additional or the purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle depend on the listed factors.

Types of sewerage structures and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment structures are allowed to be used for the installation and installation of sewerage in a private house:

• septic tank;
• filter well;
• underground filtration field;
• filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed structures should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which carries out primary rough cleaning.

Septic tank

The most common when arranging a sewer system for a private home with your own hands are two types of septic tanks:

Storage containers are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to drinking water sources/wells. A significant drawback is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewerage services.

With soil purification. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or flows by gravity into filtration structures, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, it seeps into the ground.

Filter well

The wastewater entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and through it seeps to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

1. pipe;
2. Plate bumper;
3. Pipe for the flow of wastewater.

For the arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. The filter layer is gravel of medium fractions, which must be periodically removed, washed and returned to the container again, in order to avoid excessive soil pollution. The material used for making the walls is often large-diameter plastic (with holes in the masonry) or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

The site is laid with perforated walls. Through them, wastewater is distributed over a large drainage area and is absorbed into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel filter. This method involves a significant amount of excavation work. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

• The thickness of the gravel filter is 20÷50 cm;
• The diameter of perforated pipes is 20÷50 cm;
• The distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5÷25 m/day, 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25÷100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75÷300 m/day, the distance can be reduced to 2 m.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is imperative to install them with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of at least 70 cm above the ground surface.

Filter trench

A filter trench performs the same functions as an underground filtration field: collection of wastewater after a septic tank, its additional purification and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep groundwater table, since the trench must also have significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and trench depth are calculated using the same methodology that is used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is assumed to be 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8÷1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to construct 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

Components of the WWTP scheme

The most effective for a private home are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed with your own hands and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. In everyday life, you should not use excessively aggressive chemicals that can destroy bacteria. The installation must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
2. In the second section (aeration tank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen using the aeration method. Here, the active phase of cleaning occurs using biological decomposition using bacteria;
3. In the third section, the settling tank, activated sludge is settled;
4. From the fourth section, where water is supplied by a jet pump from the secondary settling tank, fully purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or drain pump.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The internal sewage system includes the following elements;

• Plumbing fixtures: , ;
• Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
• Branch lines;
• Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When installing sewerage in a private house, the standard slope indicators are often neglected, doing it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water and accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of the dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house pipes

The connection of branch pipelines to the riser is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms may be carried out in an open manner. Fastening is carried out with special couplings with dowels, or the pipes are placed on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewage pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, boxes, under the floor. To carry out maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and sewer drain lines are equipped with inspections in accordance with the standards:

• Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
• Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
• At pipeline bends (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
• On leprous horizontal sections every 8 m.

Video of installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, correct laying of pipes with a slope:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal pipe material for sewerage in a private home is polymers. Products made from them are light in weight and can be installed by hand without the help of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long training or special skills. The sample material is not susceptible to corrosion and the aggressive effects of household chemicals, and has a long service life. The following polymers are most often used for sewerage in a private home:

• HDPE (high density polyethylene)- affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°C;
• PP()– has good performance characteristics, maximum operating temperature is +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, and has a fairly high cost;
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- a material with an optimal combination of cost and quality. Can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical influences of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term use, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common method of installing a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

• The bell and smooth end are cleaned of dirt;
• A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
• Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or ordinary liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a mark is made on the smooth part of the pipe with a marker, after which it is pulled out 1 cm from the socket.

Stages of work on installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, volume and productivity of the septic tank;
2. Determining the location of the septic tank on a personal plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
3. Installation of an internal sewer network;
4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
5. Laying pipelines and connections for external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of septic tank volume

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

Table of the volume of household waste per 1 linear meter of underground filtration field pipeline:

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 linear meter of filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close as possible to each other, this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewage system of a private house with your own hands, you must consider the following factors:

• it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
• It is recommended to connect other plumbing fixtures to the sewer network above the level of the toilet connection, this will eliminate the possibility of fecal matter getting into the drain lines;
• The pipeline must be rotated using several angle bends. For example, two at 45° or three at 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer system inside; Methods for connecting a toilet to a sewer riser

  Installation and equipment of a sewerage tank

  To install a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit is dug with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in a pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have quite a significant weight. In most cases, fastening elements are provided on the housing. After installation, the container must be leveled. Depending on the design, it may be necessary to install neck extensions.

  Article

Residents of ordinary city apartments, using sewerage every day, rarely think about how it works. Questions arise only when something leaks or breaks. And even in this case, it is enough to call a specialist from the housing and communal services, who will check everything and fix the problem himself. Owners of private houses have a more difficult time in this regard, because, from the stage of building their own house until the end of their lives, they have to understand the issues in this area, often independently installing the sewer system and repairing it in case of problems that arise. For those who are poorly informed on this issue, but do not want to spend extra money on paying for the work of craftsmen, we offer this article in which we will show a video on how to make a sewer with your own hands and tell you about the main features of its installation and operation.

To install sewerage in a private house with your own hands, it is important to design both external and internal networks. The second includes the following components: a drain pipe, a riser and wiring to those rooms in which water is needed, that is, a bathroom and toilet, as well as a kitchen and, possibly, a utility room.

The external one consists of those elements of the integral system that are located outside. The organization of such a network assumes that the laying of pipes will advance to the septic tank, that is, to the place of water filtration and storage system. Of course, it is better if it is possible to use a centralized sewerage system, where all dirty water and waste will be collected. But even in the absence of one, it is possible to organize effective drainage cleaning in a private septic tank.

Any professional will tell you that work on a sewer system in a dacha with your own hands should be done with the organization of its internal component. Even at the stage of designing a home, it is important to determine the location of rooms that require water supply next to each other. This will make the sewer wiring process easier.

The diameter of the pipe, which is suitable for draining water from the toilet, is 10-11 centimeters. For those drains that leave the bathroom and kitchen - 5 centimeters, and it is better to use PVC pipes themselves. Those sections of the path where the pipe turns, you need to use elbows. To minimize the risk of blockages, the angle of these elbows should be about 22 degrees.

As for the material for pipes, polyvinyl chloride and polypropylene are more economical and reliable. They differ from cast iron in such characteristics as:

• Price. It is significantly lower, despite the fact that the service life of such pipes is much longer.
• Easy to assemble. Since the material is lightweight, joining and laying pipes will be easier.

Create a schema

A very important stage in installing a sewer system in a house with your own hands is design, which also includes marking the places where the collector pipe will be installed. It is most convenient to work on a project on a sheet of paper or on graph paper. In addition, get a sharp pencil, tape measure and ruler.

We offer you a sequence that will help you quickly cope with this painstaking stage:

1. You need to draw up a complete plan of your premises to scale. You can use the diagram you have, or draw it again yourself, measuring the areas and perimeters of the rooms using a tape measure.
2. On the finished plan, mark the places where the risers will be installed;
3. Use symbols to indicate those places in the rooms where plumbing fixtures will be installed (toilets, sinks, bathtubs);
4. The next step is to draw the pipes that should connect the above-mentioned devices. It is important to indicate on the plan all connecting elements;
5. Repeat the above manipulations for each floor;
6. Next, you need to calculate the dimensions of the future riser;
7. Count the total length of sewer pipes throughout the entire room, including exit to the street.

After drawing up a plan for the internal sewerage system, you can move on to the second stage - planning the external network, which is the pipes that go from the outlet to the septic tank. The plan must comply with all sanitary standards adopted by law.

Types of sewer pipes

Considering that all the work of laying a sewer system in a private house with our own hands is divided into two parts, the pipes must be selected in accordance with the type of work. For the internal network, pipes are made of PP or PVC. They are gray and in diameter from four to eleven centimeters (for risers and sunbeds, as well as for outlets, respectively). For the external part of the system, it is necessary to use pipes made of more durable materials and other colors. For example, to lay pipes underground in the area from the outlet to the filtration point, loud red pipes are used. The explanation is quite simple: this color stands out brightly on the ground. As for the performance characteristics, the pipe for the street is stiffer and stronger, because it needs to support a heavy layer of soil.

There are two-layer and corrugated pipes in production - they are more durable. But the depth when installing a sewer system is rarely more than three meters, so the average owner simply does not need them.

The standard diameter of red pipes is 11 centimeters. Usually this size is sufficient for the normal functioning of the sewer system.

1. Cast iron pipes. These pipes are very durable and can withstand significant loads, but cast iron itself is a fairly fragile material, so during the use of such pipes, corrosion can form on their inner surface, which often causes blockages.
2. Polypropylene pipes. This option is lightweight and flexible. They are very convenient to install in the interior of the building. They are resistant to high temperatures.
3. Polyvinyl chloride pipes. This is a fairly cheap and light weight option. Such pipes are used to organize an external sewerage network. Cons: low level of resistance to high temperatures and fragility.

How to make a sewer with your own hands

The most difficult process in working on organizing a sewer system in a private house is the laying of the pipes and their distribution to the rooms. If you have concluded that you can refuse the services of a plumber and do this work yourself, then try to enlist the support of at least one more man. This will not only reduce time, but also improve the quality of work.

The modern building materials market offers a wide selection of pipes, tees, bends, and revisions suitable for laying pipes from materials such as PP and PVC.

To ensure high sealing of your pipes, it is advisable to coat the joints with sealant, which is usually made from silicone.

You may also need sleeves that are inserted at the intersections of pipes with walls and ceilings.

An important parameter that must be taken into account when working on laying pipes is their slope. In accordance with regulations, it is necessary to calculate the angle of inclination of the pipe in accordance with the diameter. For example, with a diameter of 5 centimeters, the angle should be 3 centimeters per linear meter, with a diameter of 10-11 centimeters - 2 centimeters per linear meter. Do not forget that you will have to place the pipes at different heights in the horizontal plane.

If both parts of the sewer network in your premises are at the same level, then it is advisable to start assembly from the connection point.

To explain the work on this point, we need a term such as release. This is the part of the sewer system that is located at the border of the house and is the junction of the pipe leading to the septic tank with the sewer outlet from the building.

The outlet should be laid just below the level where the soil freezes, if it is not possible to organize high-quality thermal insulation of the pipe. If done correctly, the pipes will not freeze on cold days.

Organization of the cleaning system

Any person who has at least minimal skills in the field of construction and passionately wants to save money on the services of a specialist can install an external sewer system. The main thing in the external network is the cleaning system, that is, the septic tank. Its design consists of one or more bowls that pass pipes through them. Subsequent options for organizing filtration may be different.

The volume of the septic tank must correspond to the number of people living in the house.

The construction of a septic tank occurs in the following sequence:

1. Purchase of appropriate size concrete rings.
2. Thinking through a wastewater filtration method;
3. Preparation of a trench for laying pipes and a pit for installing a septic tank;
4. Connecting all parts into a single structure;
5. Laying pipes in a trench, sealing joints;
6. Manufacturing of septic tank ventilation;
7. Thermal and waterproofing and backfilling of the structure with soil.

When deciding to tackle the sewer system in your home with your own hands, be prepared for the fact that it will take quite a lot of time and your patience. You will need to dig up more than one cubic meter of soil and study more than one page of reference literature. For clarity, we suggest you watch a video on how to make a sewer with your own hands.

It is difficult to call a private house comfortable if it is not equipped with a well-thought-out, well-functioning drainage system. It is as much a part of civilized existence as electricity, ventilation and heating. Such an important component of the home communications network is subject to requirements for environmental friendliness and efficiency; The drainage system of a private home should be simple to install and easy to use.

Schematic diagram of a sewer system in a private house

One of the main issues of improvement is sewerage for a private house; How to design it correctly and what to focus on during installation will be helped by empirically tested rules.

Types of sewerage systems in a private house

All houses located in the private sector are divided into two categories:

Houses with the ability to connect to the city (central) network. In most cases, this is the best option, with a long service life and no problems with maintenance, unplanned expenses and water quality control.

Houses where connection to a centralized system is not possible. The fact that the city network is unavailable is not a reason to give up comfort. In such conditions, the installation of sewerage in a private house is reduced to an autonomous option, where water purification and waste disposal occur in locally installed treatment facilities.

You can also combine sewer and drainage systems

The autonomous sewerage system includes:

Internal sewerage responsible for collecting wastewater and discharging it outside. This includes internal wiring (piping system), as well as plumbing and household appliances.

External sewerage. Its elements are external piping and a water purification device (septic tank or autonomous sewage system).

The most suitable type of individual cleaning equipment (in terms of performance) is selected taking into account several factors:

seasonality of living in the house;

intensity of water use;

plot size, soil type and structure;

groundwater level;

climatic conditions of the region.

The first stage of sewerage installation is the development of a preliminary project diagram.

Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram in a house

The sewerage diagram in a private house is tied to the house plan. It must contain the key elements of the system - a riser (if the building has more than one floor), pipe markings (internal wiring, corners and turns), water drainage points.

When designing, it is important to remember that an overly complicated circuit will cause problems in the future during operation and repair.

Internal wiring is laid during the construction of the house. Its installation begins when the roof of the house and ceilings are installed, but the finishing work of the premises has not yet been carried out. External sewerage is installed after the internal system is fully equipped. Below is a sewerage diagram for a private two-story house:

General diagram of internal sewerage in a two-story house

The procedure for drawing up a diagram:

All drawings are drawn to scale; the installation location of the riser, pipe laying lines, and the number of drain points (connection of plumbing and household appliances) are indicated on the plan.

The size of the riser is determined, the total length of the pipeline is calculated (taking into account the outlet), and the exit point from the main riser structure.

In places where blockages may form, cleaning and inspection are provided.

A separate drawing is constructed for each floor.

The size and installation location of the sewer pipe are calculated (in large sewer systems it prevents the occurrence of vacuum in the sewer pipe)

The external communications scheme is based on the same principle.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of design and installation of sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

About the sewerage diagram with a waste pipe in the video:

Selection of pipes for internal sewerage

The following categories of pipes are allowed by building codes:

Cast iron. Traditional (until recently) solution. Cast iron products are strong, corrosion-resistant and durable. The disadvantage is the weight and roughness of the inner surface. The latter quality contributes to the formation of deposits and blockages. Pipes are ideal for laying in the ground.

Plastic. They are lighter and cheaper than cast iron counterparts, have a smooth surface, but are less durable. Pipes for indoor wiring are gray in color; intended for external use are made of orange plastic. The most popular options include:

Pipes from PVC(polyvinyl chloride). Frost-resistant and wear-resistant, the main disadvantage is high hardness. They soften at high temperatures and are mainly used in outdoor work.

Pipes from PP(polypropylene). Elastic, lightweight and wear-resistant. They are valued for their heat resistance (soften only at 140 C°), making them ideal for indoor use.

Plastic pipes for internal and external circuits

Less common ceramic And asbestos-cement analogues.

In practice, installation of sewerage in a private house is in most cases carried out using products made of polymer materials (plastic). The choice is determined by the lack of corrosion (plastic is resistant to the aggressive environment of wastewater), and easy installation of structures.

How to make a sewer line

The most labor-intensive part of the work is considered to be the installation of sewerage for a private house; how to carry it out correctly is indicated in the design and installation rules.

Inside the house

Elements of the sewerage system for a private house are installed parallel to the construction of the building. Holes for internal wiring are laid during the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings.

The sewerage installation technology provides for several types of pipes:

Sewer riser, diameter 100 mm.

Main (between the riser and the outlet); diameter 70 mm.

Branch pipes (connected to a washbasin, bathtub, washing machine) – 50 mm.

Completed installation of the outlet pipe

The drainage system inside the house is gravity (non-pressure). To avoid blockages, pipes are installed with a slope, the magnitude of which is controlled by the level and depends on the diameter. A sewer pipe with a diameter of 40–50 mm is given a slope of 30 mm per linear meter, with a diameter of 100 mm – 20 mm.

Completed ceiling wiring

Horizontal wiring is carried out using oblique tees and adapters (crosses) for connection. Turns are carried out using two knees with a smooth bend at an angle of 45°; This arrangement reduces the risk of clogging. After each turn, inspections (cleaning) are provided. Right angles are permissible only in vertically located structures.

Fan pipe

If a large amount of waste suddenly enters the sewer, the latter can completely fill the entire diameter of the pipe. At the same time, when the drains go down, an area of ​​low atmospheric pressure (rarefaction) is created behind them, into which water from the siphon and air from the room are sucked in with characteristic sounds.

When the pressure equalizes, without a water plug, the smell from the sewer enters the room through the siphons. To prevent the occurrence of vacuum, a drain pipe with an air valve is installed - they are responsible for maintaining atmospheric pressure in all parts of the sewer system.

Features of the fan pipe:

It is designed and installed 50-70 cm above the roof.

It is prohibited to combine it with a chimney or ventilation.

It is not placed near windows or balconies.

Outlet of the exhaust (waste) pipe through the roof

External part

Installation of the external part of the sewer system begins after determining the location of the septic tank.

The outlet (the connecting link between the external and internal sewerage at the boundary of the room) is laid in the foundation of the house below the freezing point of the soil and is thermally insulated. If it was not provided for when laying the foundation, it is necessary to drill a hole for the protective sleeve, 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe. Its edge should protrude 15 cm from each side of the foundation. The space between the sleeve and the outlet pipe is filled with foam.

Laying external communications

It is reasonable to place wet rooms (kitchen, bathroom) nearby and at the same time as close as possible to the central riser. This will help reduce the length of sewer lines to the riser, which will facilitate installation and further maintenance.

A large project (swimming pool, bathhouse, sauna) and additional plumbing means a large volume of waste. A carefully designed water supply and drainage system, additional risers and septic tanks, and a pump connection will be required.

Sewage pipes in a private house can be located under the floor, in the walls, or laid on top. A water seal is installed near the sink, in the shower and in the toilet, thanks to which foreign odors will not be able to penetrate into the premises.

It is unacceptable to arbitrarily change the slope. Its increase will lead to a deterioration in the self-cleaning of the system and the appearance of strong noise. As the slope decreases, the flow of water slows down, which can lead to blockages.

Slope control when laying sewerage

The complex terrain of the site creates additional problems for laying a pipeline with a slope. In this case, an axonometric diagram is constructed that allows one to determine the position of the sewerage elements in space. If difficult places cannot be bypassed, installing a pump will be the solution.

You can clearly see some of the nuances of sewerage in the video:

Conclusion

A properly designed and organized sewerage system will help create the necessary minimum comfort for the inhabitants of the house. Achieving this worthy goal is facilitated by the involvement of specialized specialists. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s a wooden or brick house - the principles of operation of the system are the same everywhere.

It is increasingly rare to hear the phrase “outdoor amenities” in the private sector. This is not surprising - after all, every person strives for comfort. However, it is out of the question if on a frosty night, waking up, you have to get dressed and run through the snow to a cabin located 15 meters from your home. So home craftsmen equip latrines directly in the house. But in order for them to function normally, it is necessary to properly install a sewage disposal system into a septic tank located on the street. Today we will look at how to install a sewer system in a private house with our own hands. We will also consider the diagram of its structure, and along the way we will find out the cost of such work when performed by specialists.

Read in the article:

How to correctly draw up a diagram of a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands

When starting to draw up a sewerage diagram for a private house, you need to decide on the number of drain points. It should be understood that if there are two floors in a residential building, the circuit of each is mounted, as planned, separately, with subsequent output to a common riser leading to the septic tank.

Having only one riser is unacceptable only in the case of installing a swimming pool or sauna - a separate drain will need to be installed for them.

Important! Its performance and ease of installation will depend on the completeness and correctness of the do-it-yourself sewerage diagram for a private house. The plan must indicate the length of all pipes - this will help to correctly calculate the amount of material.

Problems you may encounter during design

The main difficulty in drawing up a project may be the introduction of a sewer pipe into the house. To do this, you will have to break through the foundation or install special pumps. Their installation will also be necessary when installing a bathroom in the basement or basement. In this case, a special installation capable of grinding organic matter will not hurt. The sewage pump together with the blade assembly is called a multi-lift.

Expert opinion

VK design engineer (water supply and sewerage) LLC "ASP North-West"

“If the house is under construction, then regardless of whether a toilet is planned inside the house or not, it is worth installing a sewer pipe into the foundation. To begin with, you can simply turn it off. If you need to install sewerage, it will be very useful.”

When designing, the number of residents must be taken into account. This indicator will directly affect both the volume of the septic tank and the diameter of the sewer pipes that will be used when installing the system. Do not forget about the depth of soil freezing - the system must be in the ground below this mark.

What types of sewerage systems exist?

The main types can be called:

1. Dry toilets. This format is not very common in private homes. It is more suitable for a summer residence where there is no need for a constantly functioning sewer system.
2. cesspool– the easiest to install and low-cost option. Its inconvenience is that it requires periodic pumping using special equipment, and this is not a cheap pleasure.
3. Septic tank- the most common version of the sewerage system. Waste products are processed using living bacteria and microorganisms or by adding chemicals to the container that decompose organic waste.

The construction of a septic tank cannot be called cheap, but it allows you to do without pumping for a long time. The main task is to add the necessary substances in time. As for the sewerage system itself for a private house, it will be the same for both the cesspool and the septic tank.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: diagram and its main components

When drawing up a project for laying a sewer system in a private house, you should mark on the diagram the location of plumbing fixtures, such as a sink or. All pipes are also taken into account (their length and diameter are indicated in the plan), connections, corners and branches. Data is entered on the location of the riser and its outlet to the septic tank.

If you describe all the parameters in detail, you can install the entire system much faster and with better quality. The plan, after installing the sewer system, must be saved. It can help in case of blockages or other emergency situations.

When drawing up a sewerage diagram for a private one-story house (as well as buildings with several floors), it is important to think about the installation locations for cleaning systems - special branches with plugs that will help get rid of blockages. Do not forget about calculating the slope of the highway. If the slope is weak, the drain will be ineffective, and if it is excessive, grease and dirt will settle on the walls, which will eventually lead to an emergency. Let's try to figure out how to correctly draw up a diagram of the sewer system.

Drawing up a sewer system diagram

The first thing you need to do is draw a floor plan of all the premises of the building. It is more convenient if such a diagram is available - quite often during construction, just such diagrams are drawn up. In this case, it can be copied and sewer routes can be “laid” along it. Having indicated the installation points of plumbing fixtures, we begin measurements. Every millimeter can play a role here.

Important! When installing thinner pipes (for example, from a sink), if they are longer than necessary, there is a danger of them being bent. In this case, the water will stagnate, which will lead to a build-up of grease and dirt and clog.

If possible, it is better to place all plumbing fixtures in close proximity to the riser - this will allow sewerage to be performed with the greatest efficiency. All tie-ins into the riser are indicated. A prerequisite is to connect the toilet flush directly to the main pipe, without additional connections. The drain of the bathtub and sink can be combined - this will save material and get rid of extra pipes and tie-ins into the main riser.

What diameter should the pipes be?

The diameter of the pipe is selected based on the number of residents and the planned intensity of use of the system. However, there are generally accepted norms. So the diameter of the main riser directly to the septic tank is usually 100-110 mm. The toilet flush has the same diameter. But from the sinks and the bathroom there are thinner pipes. Most often, a diameter of 50 mm is used for such purposes. This thickness will be quite sufficient.

All connections and taps must be made at an angle of 450. If the angle of the sewer pipe is even, it is this point that will periodically become clogged.

When installing a sewer system, it should be understood that the riser must go to the roof, from where air will enter. Let's consider what will happen if there is no air access and the upper part of the riser is plugged, using the example of a two-story house. Everyone knows that there is a hydraulic lock in the toilet that prevents the smell from the system from entering the room. If there is no free access to air, we flush the water in the toilet on the first floor. Due to the vacuum, water is “pulled out” from the plumbing fixtures on the second floor. The hydraulic lock is open, all the smell from the sewer system rushes into the living quarters.

How can you improve sewer efficiency?

The quality of operation of an autonomous sewer system can be improved both by installing additional equipment and purely by installation parameters. To do this, you just need to correctly distribute the slope of the highways. A slope of 3 cm/m is considered the most effective. But for greater efficiency of the sewer system, you can increase this parameter to 4-5 cm/m. This will be quite enough for the efficient operation of the system and not enough for the rapid formation of grease or dirt deposits on the inner walls of the pipes.

Modern means are very effective in combating deposits on the walls. But you shouldn’t expect a miracle from them if a serious blockage occurs. Advertising may claim that the product can easily cope with any of them, but this is not entirely true. In fact, such products are good for periodic prevention. If the pipe is already thoroughly clogged, then there is nothing better than a good old cable.

Speaking about additional equipment, one cannot fail to note the benefits in preventing blockages of such equipment as a household waste disposer under the sink. It prevents large scraps and other debris from entering the sewer pipe. Everything that goes down the drain after grinding has the consistency of liquid porridge, which is not capable of clogging the main line.

How to properly install a sewer system in a private house: stages of work

All work on arranging the sewer system of a private house is carried out in several stages. There is no need to perform them without interruption, which means you can carry out installation in your free time for a long time. However, according to professionals, such work rarely drags on - as soon as the arrangement begins, the home master tries to complete everything as quickly as possible. Let's look at the steps that need to be completed step by step. The algorithm of actions should be like this:

• We calculate the required volume of the septic tank;
• install and equip the tank;
• we lay a line from the septic tank to the house;
• We carry out internal wiring of sewer pipes and connect them into a system;
• We connect plumbing equipment.

By following this procedure and simple rules for carrying out work, you can be sure that the system will work flawlessly. Let's look at each step in more detail.

How to calculate the required volume of a septic tank for a private house

The calculation can be made empirically: to do this, you need to sum up the entire water consumption of the family living in the house. However, if the sewerage system is installed during the construction of a residential building, this method is unacceptable. Then you can take the average values ​​recommended by SanPiN. However, it is much easier to use the specially designed calculator below:

Send the result to me by email

The average data is shown in the table below:

Number of residents	Average water consumption, m3/day	Required container volume, m3
3	0,6	1,5
4	0,8	1,9
5	1,0	2,4
6	1,2	2,9
7	1,4	3,4
8	1,6	3,9
9	1,8	4,4
10	2,0	4,8

Many may wonder why the volume of the septic tank is 3 times greater than the daily wastewater flow. The answer is quite simple. Almost all models of septic tanks installed in our country are designed for three-day processing of organic waste. The same applies to chemicals or live bacteria that are added there. It turns out that three days is exactly the period of time that is necessary for the complete processing of human waste products. Hence the tripled values.

Related article:

From our materials you will learn the structure, operating principle, location requirements, secrets of independently installing cleaning facilities for a private home, as well as advice and recommendations from specialists.

Installation of the tank and equipment for it

More often, home craftsmen turn to specialists for help in installing a septic tank. However, there is nothing overly complicated in this work.

Having chosen a place in the yard and dug a pit, you need to lay a reinforced concrete slab on its bottom, to which the container is secured using cables. If the groundwater level is high enough, then a drainage pipe is first dug into the bottom of the pit and led outside the site into the nearest drainage ditch. Installation of septic tank ventilation is also required. It works as follows. A pipe with a diameter of 50 mm comes out from the ventilation hole, which runs underground at an angle of about 4-5 m. At the outlet, a 450 elbow is installed and then the pipe rises to a height of 3-4 m. This allows for good traction and eliminates unpleasant odors in the courtyard.

In the place where sewage will be drained into the tank, a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-110 mm is installed (the size depends on the model of the septic tank and the diameter of the planned riser). The septic tank itself is buried underground, outside, above the ground, only a small part of it remains (often just the neck) which is insulated.

Laying a sewer line from the septic tank to the house

To lay pipes, it is necessary to dig a trench at least 60 cm deep. In some regions of Russia, where the climate is colder, this parameter should be greater. In any case, the sewer line must be below the ground freezing level. It is best to fill the trench with river sand or sand and gravel mixture (SGM). After laying the main line, it is also backfilled. It turns out that the pipe is inside the sand cushion. Next, the ASG is compacted a little, and ordinary soil is poured on top.

Important! The pipe from the house to the septic tank must go downhill. The optimal spread is 4-5 cm/m. This will allow the sewage not to linger inside, but to go into the container with the greatest efficiency.

How to do the internal sewerage installation in a private house with your own hands

Sewerage installation in a private house is done in strict accordance with the project, which has already been discussed in our article. To make it easier for the dear reader to understand this issue, we suggest looking at several photo examples with comments.

Illustration	Action to be performed
	First, we mark the places where the sewer pipes will pass. It is best to do this using a laser level to ensure the required slope of the highway.
	Now those places that will be in plain sight should be grooved to hide the sewer pipes in the grooves. But this can only be done if the thickness of the wall allows.
	Having cut through the wall along the marks, we knock out the excess concrete (or foam concrete) using a hammer drill with a spatula.
	Where the wall will not be grooved, we drill holes with the same hammer drill and install special clamps that will hold the pipe.
	We cut plastic pipes to size. This can be done either with a grinder or with a simple hacksaw.
	Having lubricated the internal rubber seal, insert the edge of the angle or pipe into the socket of another piece. The connection is quite tight and airtight.
	In the same way, we assemble the entire line up to the main riser, which goes to the septic tank
	The part that is not recessed into the groove is secured to previously prepared clamps.
	Do not forget that finishing work will continue. Special plugs on the pipes will prevent construction waste from getting inside.
	All that remains is to connect the line to the main riser. Installation of the remaining branches of the sewer system of a private house is carried out in a similar manner.

Having figured out how to properly install a sewer system in a private house, you can move on to installing plumbing fixtures. But first, a few tips on connecting plastic pipes to each other.

Connecting plastic sewer pipes: some nuances

The quality of sewerage installation in a private house depends on the correctness of the connections between the pipes. To do this, you need to purchase a special silicone-based lubricant. It should not be confused with silicone sealant - such compounds are not needed for such work.

If you look inside the bell, you can see a rubber O-ring there. It is quite enough to seal the system. However, it is easy to damage when connecting pipes to each other. Even if the O-ring moves a little, over time the connection will begin to leak, and no one wants that. To prevent this problem, silicone lubricant is used. After applying it, the pipes fit into one another without any problems, creating a reliable and tight connection.

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