Construction of a wood-burning brick stove at the dacha. Brick kilns: types, design, calculations, independent construction technology. Advantages of stove heating

One of the signs of the convenience of living in a private cottage is its consistently comfortable environment at any time of the year. No matter how beautiful the structure, only a warm house can be truly cozy. One of the best solutions is to organize heating using a brick stove for the home. The advantages of this material are obvious - the variety of shapes allows brick stoves to harmonize with any environment, and the heat transfer characteristics are among the best.

With proper design and installation, a brick stove can also be used in wooden houses Source taldomstroi.ru

What types of brick stoves are there for houses?

Brick stoves intended for residential buildings are divided into the following types:

• Heating. The main purpose is to provide heating for individual rooms or the entire house;
• Cooking. The design is designed in such a way that the main heat flow goes upward - to the hob. Such a stove is heated only during cooking;
• Heating and cooking. Essentially, it is a heating stove with a hob. Since such a stove has a mixed functional purpose, cooking food on it in the summer is not always comfortable.

Whatever type of stove it is, some general qualities must be present in any case:

• the oven should warm up well;
• the chimney design must provide good draft;
• high level of general fire safety;
• the stove should fit harmoniously into the overall environment, creating a feeling of comfort.

Based on the shape of the product, brick kilns are divided into square, round, corner, T-shaped, and rectangular.

Heat transfer is primarily affected by the thickness of the walls of the product. Based on this parameter, furnaces are made of thick-walled, thin-walled and combined types.

The thickness of the walls is determined not only by the number of bricks, but also by the method of laying them Source akson-quick.ru

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

There are several reasons why a brick stove for a home is more preferable than products made from other materials:

• The design, thought out to the smallest detail, perfectly serves as a heat storage device. It is this feature that allows you to fire a brick stove much less often than other analogues (steel, cast iron). The heat retention period is about 24 hours. For comparison, firewood should be added to metal stoves every 5-6 hours;
• Due to the high accumulation of heat, a brick oven is highly economical and less harmful to the environment, which cannot be said about its metal counterparts. Optimal combustion of fuel gives maximum heat transfer; almost complete decomposition of organic matter is observed - splitting into carbon dioxide and a water base. Excess heat heats the masonry, which in turn warms the rooms;
• There is no effect of incandescence on the outer parts, so the thermal radiation of brick structures is much softer than that of steel ones.

On the outside, the bricks are hot, but not red-hot, unlike iron parts Source minsknews.by

This is interesting! When heated, the moisture condensed in the pores evaporates from the bricks, and when cooled, it is absorbed back. This process is commonly called stove breathing and thanks to it, the humidity level of the heated air always remains comfortable - from 40 to 60%. Other heating devices require the installation of an additional humidifier; without it, the air dries out.

Also, a stove in a brick house is not without its disadvantages:

• The long cooling of brickwork, scientifically called thermal inertia, is a big plus, but this coin also has a downside - an equally long warm-up. Therefore, when lighting a stove in a cold room of a large area, the temperature in the house will rise slowly - this is especially felt in the far corners. In this case, it is additionally recommended to purchase a convector.
• Since a brick oven is a fairly massive structure, ideally it is erected simultaneously with the house. The furnace must function without interruption, so special knowledge and experience are needed to design and build it. Even despite free access to drawings with orders for brick stoves for the home, you can’t do this without a specialist, and good stove craftsmen are in short supply.

For high-quality laying of stoves, it is not enough just to know the order - this work has many nuances, knowledge of which comes only with experience Source fasaddomstroy.ru

Which brick to choose for the stove

When choosing a brick, attention is primarily focused on its resistance to temperature influences. The building material must withstand repeated heating and cooling procedures. The overall service life of the stove depends on the characteristics of the brick from which the stove will be made.

It is customary to mark bricks. One of the main indicators is density and strength grade. The denser the product, the slower the kindling and heating will occur. To build a stove, you need bricks whose markings indicate strength grade M150-250, with maximum thermal conductivity and minimum hygroscopicity.

Note! Density itself is not a sign of quality. A strength grade that is too high may indicate the presence of substances in the brick that are harmful to humans when heated.

The next marking indicator is the level of frost resistance, which should be the highest. It plays an important role when choosing products used in laying the chimney (especially the part protruding above the roof).

Marking of bricks for stoves in comparison with other types of material Source iqlevsha.ru

Frost resistance implies the ability of a product to absorb moisture. Its crystallization inside the material can cause deformation of the latter. Hollow facing ones are better suited.

When forming the inside of the chimney, you need solid red brick. Plastic molding is preferred. These products withstand temperature changes and do not crack even with significant downtime.

Use in the construction of furnaces is contraindicated:

• silicate and pressed bricks;
• bricks made using the slip casting method;
• unfired raw materials.

The maximum aging of fireclay bricks (made in accordance with GOST) is up to 1350 °C. It is quite possible to use such products to create most of the structure or to use them separately for thermal protection (lining) of internal surfaces.

The Sh8 brand is suitable for the firebox (such bricks have a straw-yellow color and darkish inclusions). For the arch of the firebox, it is recommended to use fireclay products (W 22-Sh45). The only exception is sauna stoves, where due to high humidity, such bricks are contraindicated.

Sh8 brand refractory brick has a straw-yellow color Source pcentr.by

How to determine the optimal location of the furnace

The location in the house for the stove must be determined according to certain parameters. The following indicators are taken into account:

• area of ​​a residential building;
• how many rooms should be heated;
• what is a stove for and what type?
• how gases will be removed during combustion;
• the location of the stove must comply with fire safety requirements.

The stove should heat every room in the house as evenly as possible. If this condition is not met, either an additional furnace or water heating system equipment will be required.

To heat the rooms adjacent to the kitchen, a heating and cooking stove is used. It is placed in the kitchen, and the rest of the rooms are heated by the heat-dissipating wall.

When building a house made of stone, you can immediately think about the placement of chimneys in the walls, which will increase the usable area of ​​the house and ensure optimal heating.

When placing the stove on the border of rooms, you need to think about the place where it can be most successfully placed so that the surfaces transferring heat from the stove allow for uniform and maximum heat distribution.

Options for placing the stove in the house Source pechnoy.guru

Typically, the place to place the firebox is a hallway or kitchen. If the stove is designed well, it is almost invisible in the house. It does not clutter up the living space and is in perfect harmony with all interior elements. For example, a combination option is often used. In one room there is one side of the building - a stove, and in the adjacent room, its second part is a fireplace. The chimney system is common.

A brick stove for a home cannot be called mobile, so planning a place for it requires attention. We should also not forget that the oven requires regular maintenance, which means that convenient approaches must be carefully thought through.

Furnace foundation

Since the specific gravity of the entire structure is high, it needs a strong foundation.

• Furnace foundations are divided into the following types:
• reinforced concrete;
• pile;
• pile-screw;
• columnar;
• made of blocks.

It is important! Whatever type of foundation the foundation belongs to, it must be created separately from the base of the house (except for a monolithic slab). The choice of foundation depends on the soil on which it will be laid.

• The gravel-sandy soil type requires the preparation of a shallow foundation;
• For clayey or sedimentary soil, the foundation is poured using a crushed stone cushion;

Differences between arranging the foundation for a brick and iron stove Source kaksdelatbanyu.ru

• In the permafrost zone, a pile-screw foundation is used;
• Dry rocky soils make it possible to get by with either a minimal base thickness or not use it at all;
• The stove cannot be installed in areas of bulk soil.

Stages of arranging the base for a brick kiln:

• Taking into account the type of soil and the depth of its freezing, a pit is prepared.

The bottom is compacted with horizontal alignment. Crushed stone, broken brick and rubble stone are poured in an even layer. Tamping again.

A solution is prepared (proportion 1:3). The embankment is filled with mortar;

• Then there are three options:

1. use a combination of crushed stone and cement;
2. apply a frame made of reinforcement and then fill it with concrete;
3. a reinforced concrete slab is poured, on which the foundation is made from bricks and concrete and rubble pouring.

Move on to the next steps after all the used solution has dried.

• Laying three-layer waterproofing.
• Next, bricks are laid in rows.

Bricks that have been stored in the open air cannot be used in construction. Due to repeated freezing and getting wet, they become brittle, which will reduce the service life of the stove.

Video description

To see some of the nuances of choosing a foundation for a stove, watch the video:

To fill the space between the stove foundation and the foundation of the house, use ordinary river sand.

The procedure for laying the furnace

How to properly build a stove in a house depends on the materials used and the chosen design, but the main stages of work are always the same:

1. The beginning of the creation of the stove - the first two rows of bricks form its flood part;
2. Laying the third row of bricks - a blower door is installed in it;
3. Laying the fire part;
4. As soon as several rows are laid out, a grate is installed above the ash chamber. It is placed on fireclay bricks;
5. The combustion door is installed. The combustion chamber is formed;
6. A hob is placed on top of the combustion chamber;
7. Continuation of masonry with the gradual design of a gas convector system;
8. When the body of the stove is formed, they proceed to the construction of the chimney.

Installing oven doors

Depending on the design of the stove, folding, lifting, sliding or classic doors are installed.

When choosing a door material for the stove, take into account the following points:

• cast iron structures with glass inserts or all-glass products are chosen if the house likes to admire the play of flames;

Through the glass you can clearly see the fire burning in the oven. Source idei-landshafta.ru

• All cast iron samples are used if the stove is fired with coke, coal or mixed fuel. Doors made of steel or glass are suitable for a wood-burning stove;
• To avoid burns and protect children or pets from dangerous environments, a metal door with an additional thermal shield is required.

The selected doors are installed at the appropriate stage of laying brick stoves, according to the given scheme.

Rules for operating a brick stove

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you must follow certain operating rules:

• The consistency of the characteristics of the stove is ensured by maintaining the integrity of its body. Even a small crack of 2 mm in the area of ​​the valve will lead to a loss of 10% of the heat generated during fuel combustion.
• The stove should be heated correctly. Heat loss when the blower is open reaches 15-20%. If the combustion chamber door is open during combustion, all 40% will escape into the open air.
• For the firebox, be sure to use dry firewood, prepared in advance. When using raw materials, less heat is generated and due to the formation of caustic condensation, the brick walls are destroyed.
• Uniform heating is possible only when burning approximately identical logs - from 8 to 10 cm thick.

Video description

To see the errors in the installation and operation of brick stoves, watch the video:

• Laying firewood should be done leaving an empty space of 10 mm between them. Firewood is loaded into the firebox in parallel rows or with intersections. The optimal option for filling the firebox is 2/3. The gap between the firewood stack and the top of the firebox should not be less than 2 cm.
• To ignite fuel, use ordinary paper, a torch, etc. Do not use flammable substances: gasoline, kerosene or acetone.
• As soon as the stove is lit, the view is covered a little, otherwise all the heat will immediately disappear.
• The reference point when adjusting the draft during kindling is the color of the fire. A yellow flame color is considered optimal. If the flame is white, this indicates an excess of oxygen - a lot of heat goes straight into the chimney. Red flame - there is not enough air, the fuel burns partially, releasing harmful substances into the air.

Cleaning

Major cleaning, as well as repair work, is best organized in the summer, but in winter it is also necessary to periodically assess the amount of soot in the chimney. Sometimes, due to improper kindling, bad firewood or other reasons, contamination occurs much faster and additional cleaning will be required. When soot accumulates, at best, the thermal efficiency of the furnace decreases, and at worst, all the smoke and carbon monoxide can escape into the room.

Video description

For information on cleaning a brick oven, watch the following video:

The ash chamber and cleaning of the grates should be carried out in each firebox.

Elements such as a valve, a view and a blower door serve to regulate the draft of the stove and its operating mode. Their functionality and integrity must be constantly monitored. As soon as problems arise or individual parts are worn out, the issue must be resolved immediately.

Conclusion

If there is a stove in the house, it means there is warmth and home comfort. But regardless of the chosen brick stove design, its proper functioning will depend not only on how well it is made, but also on its proper maintenance by the residents of the house.

Every year more and more modern solid fuel boilers appear on the heating equipment market, while their efficiency is constantly growing, in some cases exceeding 90%. Despite this, brick stoves for the home, whose efficiency rarely reaches 70%, firmly occupy their position in the market and are not going to be put into service.

There is a simple explanation for this: a brick oven maintains an optimal ratio of temperature and air humidity in the premises. In order to be convinced of this, no equipment is required; it is enough to spend some time in such a house and the difference between ordinary water heating and stove heating will become noticeable at the level of sensations.

Types of stone stoves

Nowadays, stone stoves are laid out of brick using several basic schemes, if necessary, making various changes that do not affect the operation of the heat source. The schemes by which furnace designs are made are divided into the following types:

• with channel-type gas ducts;
• with a chamber for heating air and channel chimneys;
• bell type.

The figure below shows the structure of a brick kiln of all three types.

Dutch, Swedish and bell-type ovens

On the left side is a simple channel diagram; it is used to build stoves that do not require much space or high-quality building materials. A highly qualified mason is not needed to carry out the work; a person must be able to lay simple brick walls with a bandage and that is enough. The so-called Dutch oven, which is the basis of this scheme, in addition to the listed advantages, can be modified structurally and, if necessary, add a hob. This means that it can be adjusted to any finished building without violating the principle of operation. However, there are also disadvantages:

• Of all similar heat sources, the Dutch one has the lowest efficiency - up to 40%.
• Dutch brick stoves operate in a slow burning mode, so they cannot be heated with light fuels and small wood.
• After extinguishing, be sure to close the valve, otherwise, due to the channel design, the stone stove will quickly dry out.
• A coil for heating water for domestic hot water cannot be built into the chimney tract; by blocking the cross-section of the chimney, it will disrupt the operation of the circuit and cause a decrease in the already low efficiency.

Channel brick heating stoves of various configurations are shown in the following photo.

Design options

The Swedish stove, which is shown in the middle of the first diagram, has a more advanced design than the Dutch one and allows for an efficiency of up to 60%. An efficient combustion method and intensive heat exchange occur thanks to the built-in oven, which serves not so much as an oven for baking, but rather as a room air heater. In this stove for a brick home, combustion products, before entering the system of vertical channels, go around the metal oven cabinet, instantly heating it in the very first minutes after kindling.

The mentioned vertical flue ducts occupy the space from the floor itself to the top of the stove, intensively removing thermal energy from the flue gases. The Swedish heating stove has many advantages:

• The design allows you to install a heat exchanger coil on the side of the oven, which heats water for household needs in the house. At the same time, a storage tank for heated water can be additionally installed in the drying niche, which will allow maintaining its temperature.
• Afterburning of combustion products occurs at the beginning of the flue that goes around the oven, and they enter the vertical shafts at a temperature not exceeding 800 ºС. Thanks to this, channels and a brick chimney can be made using cement-sand mortar from simple red brick.
• It is possible, without reducing the efficiency of heat exchange in the stove, to direct part of the flue gases to warm up the stove bench; for this, horizontal flue ducts are installed under it.
• There is a hob for cooking, while the design of brick ovens provides 2 operating modes (winter / summer). The transition is carried out using valves, which in summer direct combustion products along the shortest path into the chimney.
• You can burn any type of solid fuel, including straw and reeds.

Among the disadvantages, it should be noted the strict requirements for the quality of the materials used and building mixtures based on clay. In addition, such construction is beyond the power of a beginner; the laying of heating stoves of this type is carried out by specialists - stove makers. You can see in the photo what different “Swedish women” look like in appearance.

The first figure also shows the operating principle of a bell-type furnace. Despite the apparent simplicity of the product, the construction of furnaces of this kind is a very complex process. The upper vault of the building experiences heavy loads, so only an experienced specialist can perform it. In addition, in this type of heat source it is practically impossible to install a water heating circuit for domestic hot water. Despite the high efficiency that a bell-type stove for a brick house can achieve, they are extremely rare due to the stated reasons.

Operation of furnaces in winter and summer

The organization of operation of heating and cooking stoves in two modes (winter / summer) deserves special attention. Switching modes is available in all duct-type stoves, as well as in Swedish stoves. How to implement this in practice is shown in the diagram.

How should a stove work in winter and summer?

There are 2 ways to organize dual-mode operation:

• traditional, with one chimney and two dampers;
• with two chimneys and one damper.

In the first option, in winter, the valve blocks the direct flow of combustion products, forcing them to move through all channels and give off heat to heat a private house. In summer, the channels are closed with a second valve, and the direct path to the exit is open. While saving labor costs and building materials, this scheme is characterized by the danger of incineration. The effect can occur if both dampers are accidentally closed. Well, it’s worth noting that in summer mode, the top and sides of the building still heat up, transferring excess heat to the rooms in the middle of the summer heat.

The second option, which has no drawbacks, is the design of brick stoves according to the two-chimney scheme on the right. Whatever position the damper is in, the path for combustion products is always open and draft is present in the pipes. In summer, gases will follow the path of least resistance, and not into the channel system; in winter, with the valve closed, this path will be closed for them and combustion products will go into the second pipe. That is why such products are absolutely safe, although they require somewhat higher construction costs.

Note. Swedish brick stoves made according to the second scheme can be smoothly adjusted using a valve, reducing or increasing the burning intensity.

The second disadvantage of this method is the installation of additional cleaning on each chimney.

Russian stove

This brick stove is a real achievement of structural mechanics and heating engineering, since the efficiency of burning solid fuel in it reaches 70-75%. The design of the heat source has remained unchanged for centuries and is at the same time the most complex to implement. The operating diagram of the canonical Russian stove is given below.

Structural diagram

Russian brick heating stoves for a home during construction are reminiscent of the construction of a building, since their corners must be laid out according to the same rules using a plumb line, level and other tools. The diagram below shows the sequential laying of furnaces at key points, but the detailed ordering is quite complex and requires separate study.

Layout diagram of a Russian stove

The main advantages of heating systems, in addition to high efficiency, are high heat capacity, the presence of a full-fledged stove bed (bed) and the ability to prepare original Russian dishes that cannot be prepared in any other way. The requirements for the quality of building materials here are not as high as in the construction of “Swedish” houses, but the qualifications of the stove maker must be appropriate.

As for the shortcomings, the main one is material consumption. Small stoves require twice as much materials as an average Dutch stove, not to mention the fact that a serious foundation is required. Accordingly, the complexity of construction work will entail significant costs.

For each home, you can choose a suitable stove heating option, taking into account all factors. The listed types of stoves find their application both in small country houses and in country cottages built of wood or stone.

A person who is just planning to build his own home already at this stage thinks about the heating system in it. This is correct, because the development of the project largely depends on the chosen heating system. If there is a heating main in the immediate vicinity of the site where the house will be built, and the future owner has received permission to connect to the centralized network, then you can get by with building a fireplace yourself.

You can use it during the period when the heating season has not yet arrived. If it is not possible to connect to a centralized heating system, then a reasonable solution would be to build a stove in the house with your own hands.

Since ancient times in Russia The stoves are laid from bricks in residential buildings. The craftsmen who skillfully erected these buildings were considered revered people. Today, thanks to the stove, a comfortable atmosphere is provided in the house, and in addition, coziness in its interior. These advantages of a traditional stove largely push many people to install a stove in their own home.

What types of stoves are there for brick houses?

If we talk about the types of brick stoves for individual houses, then we can distinguish the following types:

A modern-looking building in a house must have certain qualities:

• warm;
• do not smoke;
• have a high level of fire safety;
• create a cozy atmosphere.

Nowadays, if there is a need to build a brick oven, you can do this work with your own hands without outside help. Instructions can help with this, in which photos of the stages of work show that this process is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. The main thing is to have free time and the desire to create this structure in your home.

In order for the wood-burning stove being constructed to be of sufficient quality, you need not only to prepare the necessary tools, but also to take into account a number of important nuances.

Tools

To carry out work The following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• lacing;
• solution container;
• shovel or hammer drill;
• knitted wire;
• roulette.

Features of laying a brick stove for a home with your own hands

Before starting work on laying a wood-burning brick stove, it is necessary to determine the place in which it will be located. Furnace specialists give the following recommendation: if this is your first time laying a wood-burning stove, then you should not immediately proceed to its construction. First you need to practice - try to do it wood stove layout.

In the process of such work, the beginner will understand what masonry is, he will be able to take into account the mistakes made when creating the layout, and avoid them when laying a wood-burning brick stove. An important point when constructing stoves is the distance between the pipe and the roof slab. It must be at least 15 centimeters. If this requirement is met, you can mark the place where the foundation for the future wood-burning stove will be built.

Construction of a foundation for a future brick kiln made to size, slightly larger than the main furnace structure. When laying the foundation, do not forget about creating a waterproofing layer. There is one more rule that also needs to be recalled: when laying a stove, you need to constantly monitor the correctness of the actions.

The walls of the brick kiln must be made in a strictly vertical position. Particular attention should be paid to corners. The quality of all subsequent masonry largely depends on how correctly they are lined up.

Characteristics of the methods and order of laying the furnace

You should know that stove masonry can be of different types.

• undercut masonry;
• Also, when constructing stoves, masonry with empty bricks is often used. The difference between these two types is quite significant.

When used for work first masonry method, then the finished structure is not subject to plastering, since all the seams are filled with mortar. The wall laying is done with a whole brick or half of it.

Ordinary brick is not suitable for building a stove. To create it, you must use material that is specifically designed for these purposes. It is called red or full-bodied. Bricks that have been used for some purpose should not be used when laying the stove.

During the process of laying the furnace, the first row is created using only bricks. No solution is used. Then the bricks are leveled, the front wall is determined, and in addition to this, the location of all the doors of the structure is determined. When the estimate is made, perform laying bricks on mortar. Having finished with this, they move on to another equally important task - laying the corners.

Next, following the recommendations of experienced stove makers, it is necessary to lay out the entire stove circuit. Using plumb lines from the stove corners, the string must be pulled to the ceiling surface. When working, these vertical lines will act as a guide for the novice master.

The location of the ash pan and the combustion chamber with the ash pan will largely depend on the model of the stove that the owner of the house decides to install. After the third row of masonry, it is necessary to install a blower door. A row after it there is an ash pan.

It is followed by a firebox. Burnt wire is used in masonry to secure doors. At the stage of laying the stove vault, the craftsman will have to cut the bricks. Here it is necessary to achieve high-quality joining of material. Laying the stove roof begins after the second row above the fire door.

To line the combustion chamber, special refractory bricks are used. Due to the fact that this brick and the one used for laying the furnace have different temperatures, care must be taken to ensure that there is no rigid connection between them.

When it comes to installing a chimney pipe, a special valve must be provided. It must be equipped with an adjustment system.

Technological procedure for laying a furnace

Creating a stove begins with laying out the first row without mortar, taking into account the seams and in full accordance with the order.

Next you need to determine position of bricks at corners. They must be laid on the solution, while their horizontal position is checked. To control, you must use a level. The settlement of bricks that protrude can be done using a mallet.

When the required horizontalness is achieved, it is necessary to lay out the first row using a solution. When laying it, you should not forget about the level used to check the correctness of installation.

Using a tape measure check the size of the oven in terms of its diagonal. Equal diagonal values ​​in the rectangle are a prerequisite when laying a stove. If this is necessary, then the corner bricks must be knocked down to ensure the necessary equality. Now you can proceed to bricklaying the 1st row using mortar.

When the work on laying the first row is completed, we move on to the second. When laying it, we check the verticality of the corners. To do this, we use a level or plumb line. As in the case of the first row, we begin laying out the perimeter, and only then move on to the middle of the second row. When the second row is completed, it is necessary to hammer nails 80-100 mm long between the first and second rows into the seam of the corners.

Next, you need to lower the plumb line one by one at all corners and mark on the ceiling the points at which the lowering was carried out. When this is done, it is necessary to hammer nails of the same length in these places, then secure the cord and tighten it.

To check the vertical position of the cords a plumb line is used. If there are deviations, bending the upper nails is used to eliminate them. This creates the outline of the future stove in space. All rows laid further must be controlled for verticality using a stretched cord. In this case, much less time will be spent on control.

In a similar way it is done laying subsequent rows. Each new row must be checked against the order. During the laying process, it is necessary to clean the internal and external surfaces of excess mortar. To remove it, you should use a trowel. Wiping the chimney walls with a wet rag must be done every five rows.

The thickness of the seams of the stove masonry should be as thin as possible. If the seams are thick, this leads to staining of the mortar, which results in weakening of the masonry.

There is one more rule that must be observed - the rule of tying bricks. Each vertical seam should be covered with bricks from the next row.

In most cases, there is a vertical seam in the center of the next row of bricks. However, this is not achieved so successfully in all cases. Sometimes the overlap is not made in the center, but less than half the brick. In this case, it is desirable that this distance is not less than a quarter of the length of a brick.

If a brick cut from one side is used during masonry, then this side must be laid outside the chimney duct. This surface is weaker, so it quickly collapses under the influence of high temperature.

When laying out the furnace combustion chamber, fireclay brick is used as the main material. The main advantage of its use is its resistance to high temperatures. You should not bandage the joints of masonry made of fireclay bricks and ordinary bricks, since their coefficient of linear expansion is different. Fireclay brick used for laying out a whole row or for lining the firebox. There must be a distance of at least 5 millimeters between the lining and the brick.

Before installing the door in its place, you should check for a tight fit to the door frame. It would be useful to find out whether the door rotates freely on the hinges, whether there are distortions and whether the door closes well enough. It is also necessary to check the holes that are used to secure the doors. If during the check defects were identified, then before installation they must be eliminated or the door must be replaced completely.

The door is installed using binding wire. It is necessary to use material 50 cm long. The wire is inserted into the holes located on the door and then twisted. The place where the door will be installed must be treated with brickwork mortar. During the installation of the door, it is necessary to control the vertical and horizontal position of its position. After this, fixation is carried out with bricks. At the end of the work, the ends of the wire are laid into the masonry joints. Combustion chamber door installed in the same way. The main difference is that it is wrapped in asbestos.

Conclusion

If the house does not have the ability to connect to a centralized heating system, then creating a brick stove is the most correct solution. By building it, you can get a good source of heat, thanks to which a comfortable atmosphere will be provided in the premises of the house, while heating costs will be low. You can build a brick oven with your own hands without the need to contact specialists. Enough see instructions with photos How professional stove builders build such structures. Having a strong desire and free time to acquire a brick stove in your home, you can build this structure with high quality without spending a penny. Your home will always be warm, and the constructed structure will last a long time.

Do-it-yourself brick stoves for houses

The brick oven is still popular today, despite modern solutions. The main advantage is that it breathes. When a brick body heats up, moisture vapor is released into the room, and when it cools, it absorbs it back. Because of this, the dew point is maintained at an optimal level for humans.

In addition to the positive effect on health, there is another advantage: when calculating the optimal temperature, the indicator can be reduced to 18°C, due to the ideal humidity ratio during the heating season. In brick and wooden houses, the stove saves on fuel: at 17 ° C, a physically healthy person does not feel discomfort. And in a concrete house and at 18 ° C, feels chilly.

When heating with water registers, the lower temperature is 22 ° C, and when using an IR emitter, electric and gas heater, a degree higher. Therefore, a brick kiln, with an efficiency of 50%, is economically more profitable than modern solutions with an efficiency of 70%. The heating season starts later and ends earlier. For the middle zone this is a difference of a week, and in the south up to 3.

Materials and devices

Brick

Kiln bricks differ from fireclay bricks; in some sources they are confused. Their common size is: building brick 250x125x65 mm, standard oven brick 230x114x40 mm. If you look at it, the stove brick is a high-quality M150, red. It is suitable for the construction of Russian and Dutch ovens. With a heat resistance of 800 ° It can also be used to make stones for the home, but it cools quickly and absorbs little heat, so it is used only for open fire sources where heating is not needed.

Fireclay bricks are used for the combustion chambers of furnaces with high thermal conditions: bathhouses, Swedish stoves, bell-type furnaces. Heat resistance - 1600 °C, which is enough for a home oven. Its high heat capacity makes it an excellent heat accumulator. But because of these features, the stove is not made entirely of fireclay bricks, otherwise it would quickly heat up and also cool quickly. On the outside, the masonry must be lined with ceramics, at least half a brick in size.

Fireclay clay from different deposits has different colors, but this does not affect the characteristics in any way and it is impossible to determine a quality product by appearance. The size and designations are no different from usual.

How to recognize a good brick:

• Fine-grained structure without pores or inclusions.
• When you tap a brick with a hammer, a good product has a ringing sound, while a bad product has a dull sound.
• If you drop a good brick from a height, it will shatter into large pieces, and a bad one into small pieces and dust.

When laying the internal openings of home stoves, clinker brick has proven itself well. It consists of ceramics and has a nondescript appearance. shows good heat resistance and strength. Clinker is cheaper than fireclay, but more expensive than red.

Sand

If you expect your stove to last 10 years without regular repairs, then you need to use mountain sand without impurities in the solution. Other types contain a large amount of organic matter, which leads to cracking of the seams. Clay sand is ground broken brick, the price is cheaper than mountain sand, and the quality of the masonry is in no way inferior.

Masonry mortars

When laying stoves for the home, clay and sand mortars are used. For chamotte, white kaolin and chamotte marl are used. With ceramic bricks - ground clay with refractory qualities (gray or blue Cambrian, gray kaolin). For 100 pcs. you need 40 kg of clay.

When buying clay, pay attention to the smell; if you smell it, this indicates impurities, which are not suitable for building a furnace. Before laying, you need to determine the fat content, i.e. the combination of viscosity with adhesiveness, for the correct sand ratio. Clay of the same quality, but from different deposits, differs in this indicator. To check, 1 kg of powder is filled with water to the top edge and allowed to stand for a day. Fireclay marl sours in 2 hours.

The soured clay is moistened with water and stirred until the consistency of a thick dough is achieved. The resulting composition is divided into 5 equal parts and each is mixed with sand in different proportions (10%, 30%, 50%, 70%, 100% of the volume). Then dry for 4 hours. From each sample, make sausages with a diameter of 1.5 cm, at least 30 cm, wrap them around a round object with a diameter of 5 cm and look:

• If the solution settles without cracks, then it is suitable for building any stove.
• The dry crust has torn, small cracks have appeared - the material is suitable for use.

The cracks spread 1 mm deep - for furnaces whose temperature does not rise above 300 ° C (country fireplace, barbecue).

• Fractures, deep cracks, breaks - high sand content, unsuitable for use.

Testing brick sand to determine the correct ratio will allow you to save a lot; high-quality clay is more expensive.

The working solution is made according to the same principle:

A forging of commercial clay produces 4 buckets of solution.

Furnace appliances

Stove appliances (latches, doors) are attached to the stove with mustaches that fall on the seams or with a steel skirt wrapped in 5 mm asbestos cord. The first option is the cheapest, but is not suitable for ovens, fireboxes and heat dampers, and quickly becomes unusable. And to replace it, it is necessary to disturb the masonry, which is bad for the stove.

Laying and dressing

Depending on which side of the brick is on the outside, the masonry is divided into bonded and spooned. “Bed” masonry, when the brick is laid on a spoon or a butt, is prohibited by SNiP due to its fragility, but is applicable in extreme cases, for external decoration.

The masonry is done with bandaging of the seams, the rows of bricks should be offset. Otherwise any microcrack will go further than the point of origin, destroying the integrity of the structure. There are a large number of dressing methods; they often have to be changed during the construction of a complex chimney according to the drawing.

Principles of bricklaying:

• The bond row begins and ends the laying.
• Each brick must stand on 2 others.
• Adjacent rows of bricks should overlap by 1/4 in width and length.
• If the vertical joints are not filled with mortar, the masonry will spread into layers.
• There should be no overlap between the vertical seams of the spoon and butt rows.
• Areas under beams, protruding thresholds, liners - only butted.
• Hewn bricks are not used outside.

The minimum seam width is 2 mm, the maximum is 3 mm. Allowed widening in masonry up to 5 mm, in the vault and ceiling rows - up to 13 mm. At the junction of ceramic and fireclay masonry, the maximum width is 5 mm. All rows of masonry must be tied.

When constructing partitions, bypass windows are made at the bottom and top. The pass is done simply - 2 bricks are skipped. But this won’t work with overflow, otherwise there will be a hanging wall. The supports of the butts alternate every 3 rows with the windows of the spoon.

The walls of the convector are made in order, and the shield is made using spoons with a regular dressing.

The vaults in household ovens are made semi-circular. Laying order:

The seams on the wings should not coincide with the lock seams. To avoid this, in the drawing they are performed in a mirror image, and not in a shift. The divergence angle should not exceed 17 degrees. To do this, you need to use a standard size brick, the thickness of the internal joints is 2 mm, external 13 mm.

Number of bricks

Before the widespread use of computers, the number of bricks for construction was calculated according to special coefficients for projects with the addition of 15% for defects and theft. But at current prices for materials, such an approach is unacceptable. Now all buildings are calculated using CAD ( computer-aided design systems). The program will automatically produce the required number of full-size, shaped and longitudinal bricks, according to the drawing. But when building a stove yourself, the easiest way is to count in order. For an average oven this will take an hour, but will allow you to count materials with an accuracy of 2%.

"Buslaevskaya" stove for home

The design is equipped with a built-in hood and is well suited for the home, as it can be used not only for heating (lower), but also for cooking (upper). To build the “Buslaevskaya” stove, you will need:

Order of the “Buslaevskaya” furnace:

• I - full row.
• II - blower.
• III - cleaning window.
• IV - the bottom of the oven is lined with refractory material and lined with iron on three sides.
• V - the combustion door, grate, and cleaning cover are installed.
• VI - installation of DS.
• VII - around the DB the refractory is installed on the edge.
• VIII - full row
• IX - the upper part of the oven is coated with clay (1 cm).
• X - smoke circulation is set.
• XI - creating channels and laying 25 cm strips, overlapping cleanings.
• XII - installation of fastening wire and completion of cleaning.
• XIII - cap.
• XIV - overlap.
• XV–XVI - pichurki.
• XVII - small pichurka is lined with iron.
• XVIII - the edges of the side walls are hewn.
• XIX - masonry of projections.
• XX - installation of a corner, duplication of the projection.
• XXI - chimney overlap.
• XXII - reducing the chimney diameter to 0.26x0.13 m.
• XXIII - and all the following rows - is a chimney.

When using clinker bricks for cladding, the dimensions of the kiln increase. It is not recommended to use it instead of full-bodied. Covering the structure with tiles will ensure a long service life.

The technology for creating stoves for the home differs from traditional ones. Laying rows without using mortar, according to the order, is often used. To give the desired shape, the brick is hewn and trimmed. The dimensions of the stove are smaller than the walls of the house and carefully measure the diagonals before construction. Make a control measurement every 4 rows. This is convenient to do with the help of a stretched cord and rules.

Using a ready-made solution will help significantly save time. You will not need to soak the clay for 2 days, strain through a sieve, and knead to the required consistency. To prevent rapid drying, the brick is pre-moistened with water. The absence of rectangular ledges in the design will help save on operating costs. During laying, control the thickness of the seams and remove excess mortar. When building a furnace, different materials are used and different solutions are used to join them. Fireclay bricks are not combined with clay bricks; ovens, cast iron and steel plates, rods, water tanks, gratings are not embedded in the masonry. This is due to different expansion rates of materials at the time of heating.

The need for warmth and comfort in a private home arises already in mid-autumn, and it is good if the house has central heating. Those who have to heat their home autonomously will have to thoroughly prepare for the autumn-winter season. Modern boilers or electric fireplaces can solve the problem today, but they will not create that special, unique atmosphere of a live fire in the stove, accompanied by the crackling of wood. Therefore, it is quite correct if the following question arises for you: “How to build a brick stove with your own hands?” In this article we will look at the process of creating a brick oven in stages, taking into account diagrams and all the materials and tools necessary during the laying process. All you have to do is correctly repeat all the described processes, and you will become the owner of a high-quality home stove that will warm you on cold winter evenings.

It is very easy to make a stove out of brick if you have a clear idea of ​​what type of stove will ideally fit into the conditions of your building. To do this, you need to familiarize yourself with the brief characteristics of private houses, and based on the information received, make the right choice. So, the types of stoves relative to the type of buildings.

1. Stove in a wooden house. An oven of this type needs a very reliable foundation. It is better to provide for the presence of a stove at the stage of building a house, then you can significantly reduce the cost of creating a foundation for stove equipment. If the stove was not included in the house construction project, then you will have to spend money on partial dismantling of the floors and subsequent finishing work. There is no other way out. The best option for a wooden house would be a compact stove made of brick heating and cooking type with medium heat capacity, as well as a fireplace stove or an option with a bread maker.

   

   

2. Classic Russian stove for a cottage. This option is losing popularity due to the massiveness and complexity of the masonry. Such a large stove with the functions of cooking, water heating, heating and a sleeping place, that is, a sun lounger, is very convenient, but will not fit into a small house, and also requires the mandatory creation of an individual monolithic reinforced base.

   

3. Stove in a country house. An ideal option for a country house would be a stove with a hob and a heating water tank.

   

4. Stove in a cottage or country house. Cottages and dachas require visits only during certain seasons or on weekends, which means that in such a building it will be sufficient to install a small brick stove with a hob. In this case, it is worth taking a closer look at the stove design, built according to the summer version, when the heated air will be directed directly into the chimney, and not into the heat exchange channels.

   

   

5. Stove for a home with a sauna. If you have a bathhouse attached to your house, it is quite possible to build a brick stove with a built-in boiler for heating residential premises.

   

6. Barbecue oven. Such units are usually installed in attics, gazebos or summer kitchens. They can be modest in size or very impressive, but are equally used only for cooking, so they are equipped, for example, with hobs, ovens, barbecues, barbecue grills, cast iron cauldrons, etc.

   

   

   Barbecue cooker with oven

This is all that needs to be taken into account in order to correctly determine the type of suitable furnace equipment. We can move on.

Stove maker's advice. When deciding on the size of the stove structure, first of all pay attention to such points as ease of use and fire safety!

Stage 2. Building material: choice

When choosing a brick, you need to consider how resistant it will be to the influence of high temperatures, while the main emphasis should be placed on the integrity of the material after repeating the heating and cooling procedure. The characteristics of brick as a building material will determine the service life of the kiln. It is important!

Choosing a brick

Any brick is marked. One of them denotes density. For stoves, it is optimal to purchase bricks marked from 75 to 250, but it is worth remembering that the denser the product, the slower the stove will have to be melted, and the slower it will heat up. On the other hand, a well-heated stove made of dense brick will slowly cool, giving off its soft heat to the atmosphere.

If you plan to build a stove in a bathhouse, it is better to choose the least dense brick (but above M100) so that kindling does not take much time. And for appliances intended for heating residential premises and cooking, it is worth purchasing denser bricks.

It is worth knowing that the density indicator is not a sign of the quality of the brick. However, it is better to clarify the composition so as not to purchase a product with chemical impurities hazardous to health.

The next marking is the frost resistance of the product. This indicator is especially important (and should be the highest) for that part of the chimney that is located above the roof. Frost resistance itself is the property of a product to absorb moisture, which during crystallization deforms the material. The best frost resistance indicators are for hollow facing bricks, but the inside of the chimney can be laid out of solid red brick. High-quality products with a high level of frost resistance are produced in the Novgorod region, the city of Borovichi.

It is advisable to purchase red bricks made by plastic molding. These products have few pores, they withstand temperature changes well, and the masonry does not crack even after the oven has been idle for a long time. Products made of silicate, pressed, cast using the slip casting method, and unfired raw materials are not suitable for the construction of furnaces.

Fireclay bricks made according to GOST can withstand up to 1350 degrees. You can build the entire furnace from such bricks or use it only for lining the internal working surfaces of the furnace. For masonry of the firebox, you can use straw-yellow products of the Sh8 brand with dark inclusions; for the firebox vault, fireclay bricks Sh22 - Sh45 are suitable. However, this recommendation does not apply to sauna stoves, because fireclay bricks are used only with a humidity of less than 60%. In the bathhouse, it is better to use clinker bricks or ceramic refractory bricks.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

How to check the quality of bricks:

• If you drop the product on the floor, it will break into large pieces. If the brick crumbles into crumbs, discard the batch;
• if you touch a brick, it does not generate dust;
• if a high-quality product is hit with a hammer, there will be a clear, clear, long-lasting sound;
• The edges of a good brick are smooth, the color is rich and even.

GOST 530-2012. CERAMIC BRICK AND STONE. File for download

GOST 8691-73. FIREPROOF PRODUCTS FOR GENERAL PURPOSE. SHAPE AND SIZES. File for download

Choosing a mortar

The choice of mortar is an important point. If the solution is incorrect, the stove will smoke, and cracks may very soon appear on the surface of the structure.

Most often, masonry mortar is prepared from fine-grained sifted river sand (sand grains maximum 1.5 mm) and clay, which must be soaked for several hours before mixing. The soaked clay is ground through a sieve to get rid of lumps, because the masonry joint should not exceed five millimeters in thickness.

Clay mortar - preparation

The proportions for the clay solution depend on the quality of the clay - the fatter it is, the more sand, but it is important not to make the solution too thin, which will dry out and crack. It is recommended to do several test mixing of the solutions to determine the required proportions of sand and clay, and it is important to thoroughly mix the sand, adding it in several stages.

A test for fat content is done by taking half a fist of the material, moistening it and kneading it thoroughly, rolling it into a ball, and then placing and squeezing it between two smooth boards. If the ball was able to be compressed by a third of its diameter and no cracks appeared, then the solution is suitable for laying a furnace. An additional quality check is drying a ball with a diameter of 5 cm in air for 20 days. A good quality dried ball will not crumple when you press on it.

How much water to pour? We make test batches again and check the degree of fluidity of the solution. We run the trowel over the mixed solution and look at the mark:

• if it is torn, then there is not enough water;
• if you swam almost instantly, there is an excess of moisture;
• if the mark is clear and the edges are smooth, then the solution is suitable for laying a stove.

Figures 5 and 6 show a trowel that has been dipped into the solution. In the first case, it is too greasy, there are streaky streaks left on the trowel, you need to add a little sand, but in the second case (Fig. 6) the solution is good, the metal is slightly visible, and the streaks are patterned.

Note! It is advisable to use soft water to mix the masonry mixture. Too hard, that is, 8 degrees and above, will reduce the strength of the solution.

The final suitability test is carried out by spreading a 3 mm layer on the brick bed. The second brick is glued to the first, tapped with a mallet and waited for 5-10 minutes. During the specified time, both bricks should stick together. If the bricks do not spill even when shaken, the stove is guaranteed to last a hundred years.

Note! To lay the firebox, either fireclay sand or a mixture of equal parts of fireclay and quartz sand is added to the solution.

Video - Preparation of clay mortar for laying a stove

Clay mortar is not used for laying the foundation and fluffing the chimney. For these elements, a classic cement mortar or with the addition of lime paste is used (cement M500 or M600 - 1 part, lime paste - from 9 to 16 parts).

Important! If you think that you cannot cope with preparing, testing and mixing the clay solution, purchase ready-made stove mixtures, for example, Terracotta (20 kg, 306 rubles). For red brick, a mixture with red clay is suitable, and gray fireproof mixtures are ideal for both red and fireclay bricks. Do not purchase ready-made mixtures containing cement.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Stage 3. Selection and calculation of the quantity of bricks for masonry

At the second stage, you need to carry out the optimal calculation of the dimensions of the brick oven. Having established the final size of the stove structure, you can install the required number of bricks. Red solid single brick has a fixed size of 250 (length) x 120 (width) x 65 (thickness) mm with a deviation of +/- 2 mm.

Refractory fireclay bricks, from which the firebox of almost all furnaces are laid out, are manufactured and marked according to GOST 8691-73. Size information is given in the table.

For one square meter of half-brick masonry you will need:

• excluding mortar joint - 61 bricks;
• taking into account mortar joints - 57 pieces and 0.011 cubic meters of masonry mortar.

Accordingly, for two meters of square brickwork you will need 122 or 113 solid red bricks, and the estimated amount of mortar consumed will be 0.022 m3.

Please note that when laying in one brick, that is, if the thickness of the furnace wall is not 120, but already 250 mm, then 128 or 115 bricks will be used for each square meter, respectively, excluding and taking into account mortar joints, and the amount of masonry mixture will increase up to 0.027 m3.

How to make a simplified calculation of the approximate number of bricks for the entire kiln:

• the number of bricks in the first row is calculated;
• the resulting value is multiplied by the number of rows of the oven;
• the found number is multiplied by 0.8 (for heating devices) or 0.65 (for devices with a heating panel).

For example, let’s calculate the amount of bricks for a stove measuring 90x90 cm. There are 3.5 bricks per 900 mm. That is, in the first row there will be 24.5 pieces. Multiply by the number of rows 24.5x30, we get 735 pcs. We accept a coefficient of 0.65x735 pcs. = 477.75 pcs., round up to 480 and add 10% for rejection.

The number of bricks per pipe is calculated separately. Its height and design are adopted in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.09.03-85 (“Smoke pipes”), which will be described in detail below. For a straight four-meter pipe you will need:

We count: 4x56=224 pcs. For otter, cutting and fluffing we add another 56 bricks and multiply the result by 10%. All that remains is to sum up the amount of brick for the stove with the same amount for the chimney.

You can more accurately calculate the amount of material by drawing up or using an existing order diagram, which shows the longitudinal and transverse sections of the stove, provides recommendations for laying the chimney and the dimensions of all elements, including doors.

This information can be used in practice, creating an individual plan for the consumption of brick material.

It is worth noting: if you ultimately want to get the perfect brick stove that fits perfectly into your home, be as careful as possible, starting with the selection of stove equipment and ending with its commissioning. This approach will allow you to enjoy your personal creation for a long time in the future.

Stage 4. Choosing a furnace location

So, after you have decided on the type of stove, determined the area of ​​the stove structure, and also chosen the building material and mortar, proceed to choosing a location for installing the stove.

Usually the stove is installed in one of the corners of the room or against a wall - this allows you to save precious meters of living space.

The heating stove can be located in the center of the house, while simultaneously being located in several adjacent rooms with its different sides, for example, a firebox will go into the kitchen, and three other walls will heat the rooms.

It is better to build a sauna stove near the door to the steam room. This will ensure proper temperature and humidity conditions and allow air masses to circulate effectively (provided that the exhaust and supply ventilation openings are correctly located).

However, you need to remember about the distances between the surfaces of the stove, chimney and walls, ceiling. According to SNiP 2.04.05-91, you should adhere to the following distances:

Heating stoves, smoke and ventilation ducts of residential and public buildings. Rules for production and acceptance of work

Stone and stove works. Files for downloading pdf

Stage 5. Foundation

A stove made of brick has a large specific gravity, so without a reliable foundation the structure cannot be installed.

The foundation for the furnace can be monolithic reinforced concrete, pile, columnar, lined with blocks, pile-screw.

Regardless of the type, the foundation of the stove should not be connected to the foundation of the house. The type of foundation is chosen, as for a house, based on the type of soil.

1. The gravel-sandy soil allows for the development of a shallow foundation.
2. If the soil is clayey or sedimentary, it is better to pour the foundation on a crushed stone bed, while deepening it to the freezing level.
3. In permafrost zones, a pile-screw foundation is installed, paying special attention to the thermal insulation of the piles.
4. On dry rocky soils, the foundation may have minimal thickness or none at all.
5. Bulk soil is not suitable for installing a brick kiln.

Let's consider a method for arranging solid bases for a brick kiln.

Step 1. Depending on the type of soil and the level of its freezing, we dig a pit. We take the width and shape based on the dimensions of the oven and adding 10-15 cm to its length and width, respectively. Immediately pay attention to the location of the ceiling beams - the chimney pipe will have to pass between them, taking into account the deviations regulated by SNiP. It is also recommended to carry out drainage (drainage) from the furnace foundation to reduce moisture and heaving of the soil.

Step 2. We tamp the bottom of the pit and level it horizontally as much as possible. Pour a ten-centimeter layer of small broken brick, rubble stone or crushed stone. We repeat the tamping procedure.

Step 3. We prepare liquid cement mortar (the ratio of cement and sand is 1 to 3) and fill the embankment with it.

• combine ten-centimeter layers of crushed stone backfill with cement fill. This option is acceptable for foundations of small depth, namely up to 50 cm;

  

• install the reinforcement frame and fill it with concrete. The frame is knitted with reinforcement wire with a diameter of 10 mm. The cell size is 10x10 cm. Formwork is installed in the pit; the frame must be 5 cm from its walls and bottom, for which plastic clamps or pieces of brick are used. Concrete is poured inside, and the mixture is compacted during the pouring process with an internal vibrator or metal rod. The top pouring point should be 15 cm below the finished floor level;

  

  

• pour a reinforced concrete slab, on top of which lay the foundation walls of sand-lime or red brick, and fill the inside with backfilled concrete (loose aggregate should be less than or equal to the volume of concrete).

  

The first and third base options are completed with a layer of cement mortar. The filled layer is checked with a level and, if necessary, leveled with a rule or other suitable tool.

Further work is carried out after the solutions used in the process of pouring the foundation have completely dried.

Step 5. We lay the waterproofing in three layers, fixing it with mastic (for roofing felt we use tar, for roofing felt we use bitumen).

Step 6. We lay out a continuous row of bricks. We place whole bricks on the edges, halves on the inside. The brick base should be 5-7 cm wider than the existing foundation, but 5-7 cm wider than the stove itself.

We do not use cement to bind bricks together. On top of the masonry, which we also check for horizontalness, we put another layer of waterproofing, then lay out the second layer of brick, observing the dressing between the two rows. The brick base should ideally be exactly level with the finished floor or rise 3-4 cm above it.

Important note! Do not use bricks for construction that have lain outside all winter and have been repeatedly exposed to wetness and freezing. Such products can quickly deteriorate, which will greatly reduce the service life of the furnace.

We fill the space between the foundation of the stove and the house with river sand.

Stage 6. Construction of a stove-heater with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

This project can be implemented both in a separate bathhouse and in a steam room attached to a residential building. The stove does not have a tank for heating water and a heat exchanger, but it has a hob that can easily heat water for 4-6 people. At the same time, the oven cools down very slowly, so there will be warm water even the morning after the procedures, and in the room, even in winter, the temperature will not drop below +15 degrees for more than a day. The stove will provide heating for a steam room measuring 3.3x5 meters and with a ceiling height of 2 meters to eighty degrees in about 5-6 hours.

The heater itself will be located in the steam room, and fuel will be loaded from the rest room. Bath stones, which hold approximately 40 kg (soapstone), are loaded into a special oven, where they are evenly heated, so that the steam in the bath is dry and quite thick and hot.

The height of the oven will be approximately 1.33 meters. The oven is square, side 0.89 meters. Using these data, calculate the dimensions of the foundation and lay/fill it in advance.

When building a stove (the chimney is not taken into account) the following will be used:

• 269 ​​red bricks;
• 63 refractory bricks ША-8;

  

• cast iron combustion door dimensions 0.21x0.25 m;

  

  Oven door - example

• ash door 0.14x0.25 m;
• two cleaning doors 0.14x0.14 m;
• grate 0.38x0.25 m;
• two-burner cast iron hob 0.51x0.34 m;

  

• oven for laying stones with dimensions of 0.25x0.25x0.44 m;
• one valve for “summer” mode with dimensions of 0.13x0.13 m;

  

• one chimney valve, size 0.13x0.25 m;

  

• pre-furnace steel sheet measuring at least 50x70 cm.

  

• The key in brickwork is the construction joint. It should be uniform across each row, thoroughly coated. This is the only way you will achieve a monolithic stove structure and prevent smoke leakage from the fuel chamber. Carry out the process with utmost care;
• Before laying the brick, it must be well moistened. To do this, prepare a container of water and lower the bricks into the water for 5 – 10 minutes. This time is enough for the adhesion of clay and brick to be at the highest level in the future. Once the wet brick dries, it prevents cracks from occurring in the finished stove structure. We keep the bricks in water until air bubbles stop coming out. Refractory bricks are not soaked, but only moistened with water;
• Before laying each subsequent row, use a building level and a plumb line - the use of these tools in the work process is a guarantee that the structure will be free from geometric distortions and distortions.

We lay out the first row of red brick. In total you will need 24 whole bricks and one sawn in two. Lay the row very evenly, using a meter level to check the horizontality along the sides and axes of the masonry. Use a tape measure to check for squareness and alignment. We adjust the bricks with a rubber hammer. We make seams no more than five millimeters.

The second row does not differ from the first either in the quantity of bricks or in its quality. You just have to carefully observe the dressing between the two rows. It is better to start laying from the corners, gradually filling the middle.

For the third row, take twenty red bricks and the ash chamber door. We lay sixteen bricks intact, cut another four with a grinder or a hacksaw for metal with a tungsten carbide blade (see the drawing for the accuracy of cutting the elements).

Before cutting, we wet the brick and securely fix it. We follow safety precautions!!!

Cutting bricks with a grinder - photo

Video - How to cut brick

Video - Cutting stove bricks with a grinder

We don’t rush to apply the solution, first lay out the entire row dry! Bricks must not be laid with the hewn (cut) side inside the firebox or chimney. It is also strictly forbidden to lubricate the internal surfaces of the channels and firebox with clay.

If the brick is laid unsuccessfully, remove it, clean it of the mortar, soak it again, apply a new mortar with a trowel, and then make the adjustment again.

In the same row we fix the door; to do this, we wrap the door frame around the perimeter with asbestos cord, cover it with a solution, insert and twist steel knitting wire (diameter 3-4 mm, length 1-1.2 m, number of twisting rods from 3 to 4 ) into the holes in the corners of the frame, and pass the resulting wire twists between the rows of bricks.

Fastening the door with wire - the upper ends of the wire are laid between the bricks

Installing a stove door - photo

Video - How to attach a wire to a door

Video - How to attach the oven door to the blower

The clay mortar and the weight of the bricks will securely hold the door frame.

Another way to install the door is by using metal strips or plates that are flared at the ends. The elements are attached to the door frame by riveting, after which they are fixed in the masonry joints. If the plates are too thick, it is better to cut grooves into the bricks.

The accuracy of the door installation is checked with a plumb line and level.

Advice. To make the cleaning door fit more neatly and accurately, remove a rectangular chamfer from the bricks that will be located around the perimeter of the door frame. That is, the hole for installing the door should be 5 mm longer and wider than the frame.

Don't worry if you only get three rows done in a day. Soaking, trimming, fitting and laying require time, patience and precision.

In the fourth row we continue to form the ash chamber, additionally laying out the lower horizontal channel. The entire row will require 16 bricks. For the channel, we immediately install a door 0.14x0.14 m. The door can be fixed without asbestos, simply on the solution, since in this place the temperature will be low and the thermal expansion of the metal will be minimal.

For the fifth row we take 16 and a half red bricks. We cut four of them obliquely to make the door overlap using the “lock” method. We lay the bricks with the hewn side up. We cut two more bricks obliquely, forming an overlap.

Row 6

In the sixth row, fireclay bricks will be used in the amount of six and a half pieces and red brick - 12 pieces. It is shown in yellow in the diagram. We lay out the base of the fuel chamber from fireclay. We make slots for laying the grate. The hole for the grating should be 5-7 mm larger so that the expanding metal does not destroy the masonry. The space between the grate and the bricks (chamfers) is filled with sand.

Experienced stove-makers advise laying the grate with a slight slope, up to three centimeters, towards the stove door.

Use one brick to block the cleaning door.

In this row of 9 red and 5 fireclay bricks we form a fuel chamber. We cut the brick that is placed at the back of the firebox obliquely at an angle of 45 degrees.

We install the door using asbestos cord. Door size 21x25 cm.

We also place a welded oven made of 8 mm thick steel. The back of the cabinet will be located in the fuel chamber. The door of the cabinet is slightly smaller than its height, that is, it is raised, due to which the bath stones will not fall out on the floor.

We carry out the laying according to the order schemes. For work, we take seven red and fireclay bricks.

For the ninth row you will need 6.5 red and 7 fireclay bricks. We build the walls of the firebox.

In this row, using the “lock” method already discussed above, we close the fire door. The entire row will require 7 red, 8 fireclay bricks and another 1 wedged fireclay.

We take 10 and a half fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks. Close the door and back of the oven. We lay the bricks, connecting the firebox with the nearest vertical channel. Another channel is formed above the cabinet - we install a door there.

We take 12 red and 9 fireclay bricks. We trim as shown in the diagram, and also make a recess for the hob, taking into account the required five-millimeter gaps. We lay a 51x34 cm hob; we do not use any mortar.

We install the valve in the nearest vertical channel. To install the metal element, we make slits in the brick, as shown in the diagrams. The far vertical channel, starting from this row, bifurcates.

Gate valve in the furnace - photo

For work we take 9 fireclay and 6 and a half red bricks.

We begin to form a decorative niche, for which we use 15.5 red bricks. We no longer use fireclay.

We combine the near channel and the central one. We use 13.5 bricks.

We continue laying in order. We take 14 and a half bricks.

We block the far channel and the central one. We cut two bricks above the niche obliquely to make a locking ceiling. We also cut the brick obliquely above the hob. We lay the wedge brick in the castle. Consumption per row – 18 pcs.

We close the oven completely, with the exception of the near channel. We make cutouts in this channel to install a 13x25 cm valve. Above the slab we cut another brick obliquely. Consumption – 16 pcs.

We use 17 and a half bricks to re-cover, leaving only a smoke channel measuring 13x13 cm.

We use four bricks to form the base of the chimney pipe.

With the ligation we place the second row of pipe.

Video - Description of furnace construction

The internal surfaces of the furnace must be as smooth as possible so that soot does not accumulate on them, therefore, during the laying process, the protruding clay must be cleaned or scraped off.

How to dry the oven? We leave the unit with the valves and doors open for about a week. Without closing the doors, we put just a little fuel into the firebox to warm up the walls a little. The next day we repeat the operation, increasing the amount of fuel. At the same time, we do not close the doors. When there are no wet marks left on the walls and no condensation on the valve, the stove is ready for the first real fire.

Video - Do-it-yourself stove for the bathhouse

Video - Drying the oven

After drying, the stove can be heated and the draft in it checked by opening the valves, then holding a burning match to the open door of the firebox. If the flame deviates into the oven, it means there is draft.

The draft depends on the chimney, which in turn must be at least five meters long, if you count from the grate. More accurately, the height of the chimney above the roof can be determined from the picture. But remember that damp pipes will have slightly weaker draft.

It is recommended to whitewash a brick pipe in two layers with chalk or lime so that furnace gas leaks become immediately noticeable. The faulty pipe is immediately repaired. Above the roof, the chimney pipe must be plastered, and for masonry a cement, cement-lime or simply lime mortar is used, and the best quality brick is selected, without chips, cracks, or other defects.

Don’t forget to clean the stove - in the spring if you plan to heat the sauna in the summer and twice a year if you use it constantly. If cracks appear, immediately seal them with clay mortar, applying and leveling it with a trowel.

Video - How to fold a stove with your own hands

Video - Laying the first row of bricks