Snow removal devices. Making a manual snow scraper. How to make a snow shovel with your own hands

Snowy season is a favorite time for children: skiing and sledding, fun snowball fights and building ice castles... But the owners of country houses are not very happy with the abundance of snow, because they have to take up the shovel again and clear the territory. It’s good when you have the opportunity to purchase a snow blower and turn a seasonal chore into an enjoyable job. But if you don’t have extra money to buy a useful “helper,” you can always make a snow blower with your own hands from materials that have long been collecting dust idle in the corner of a workshop or shed.

Design #1 – auger snow blower model

We suggest first considering the option of how to make a snow blower with your own hands based on an old engine from a walk-behind tractor. To do this you need to prepare:

• Sheet (roofing) iron for assembling the auger body;
• Steel corner 50x50 mm for the structure frame;
• Plywood 10 mm thick for side parts;
• Half-inch pipe for arranging the handle of the machine.

When planning to equip a homemade snow blower with an air-cooled engine, it is necessary to provide additional protection for the air intake opening from small snow particles emitted during operation.

The engine power of this device is 6.5 hp. It is quite enough for clearing fresh snow from the garden area.

Thanks to the machine’s working width of 50 cm, it will be convenient to move the structure and clear winding paths on the site. The machine has compact dimensions, its width does not exceed 65 cm. This allows you to hide the snow blower in the barn at any time as unnecessary; it easily passes through a regular doorway.

To make the auger shaft, you can use a ¾ inch pipe. A through cut is made in the pipe, which is necessary to fix a metal blade measuring 120x270 mm. During operation, the captured snow mass from the transport belt will be moved by the auger to the blade. This blade, in turn, under the influence of the rotation of the shaft, will throw the snow to the sides.

The frame of the snow blower can be welded from steel corners 50x50 mm, and closer to the edges of the structure in the pipe to the transverse corners, all that remains is to weld two corners on each side, the dimensions of which are 25x25 mm

The engine platform will be attached to these corners in the future. You can fasten the transverse corners with the longitudinal ones and fix the control handles on them using bolts (M8).

The auger pipe is equipped with a metal blade and four rubber rings d=28 cm, the material for the manufacture of which can be the sidewall of a tire or a 1.5-meter transport belt with a thickness of 1.5 mm.

You can cut rings from a rubber base using a simple device: drive two screws into a board, and then secure this structure tightly to the tape and turn it in a circle. You can significantly simplify the cutting procedure by using a jigsaw.

Since the snow blower auger will rotate in self-aligning bearings 205, they must be placed on the pipe. In order to make a snow blower yourself, you can use any bearings, the main thing is that they must be closed. The support from the cardan of old Zhiguli models can act as a protective casing for bearings.

Advice. In order for the structure to fit well into the bearings, you need to make a couple of cuts in it and lightly tap it. Such manipulations allow you to slightly reduce the diameter of the shaft.

To insure a homemade auger against ice, it is advisable to provide a safety pin. In addition to its direct purpose - cutting when the auger jams, it will serve as a belt fuse (if a belt drive system is installed). The auger can also be driven by a chain. Its idle speed is about 800 rpm. All the necessary components for a snow blower can be purchased at any specialized store.

A piece of plastic sewer pipe d=160 mm is well suited for discarding snow. It is fixed on a pipe of the same diameter located on the auger body itself

An extension of this section of pipe will be a chute for throwing out snow, the diameter of which should be larger than the width of the metal auger blade.

Assembly of the structure

Before assembling the structure, you need to pay attention to the fact that the dimensions of the machine body should be a couple of centimeters larger than the dimensions of the auger itself. This will prevent the mechanism from touching the walls of the housing during operation.

Since the snow blower engine can be used for other purposes during snow-free periods, it is desirable to provide a quick-release convenient platform in the design of the unit, thanks to which the engine can be removed at any time without using any tools.

A significant advantage of this design solution is the ease of cleaning the body and moving parts of the machine from compacted snow. And storing such a snow blower is much easier: just remove the engine and the machine will become twice as light.

The basis for the skis are wooden beams, which are additionally equipped with plastic linings. You can make such overlays from an electrical wiring box.

The snow blower is ready for use. All that remains is to paint the homemade device and start working on clearing the snow.

Design #2 – “Vyuga” rotary snow blower

This device, quite simple in design, can be made in any workshop equipped with a lathe and a welding machine. The snow blower, designed by Penza craftsmen, performed well even in rather difficult snow conditions.

The design of the device is based on: an engine with a built-in muffler, a gas tank and a cable for controlling the throttle valve.

All components of the device can be purchased in the store or taken from the same motorbike

First, you need to make a rotor on a lathe based on a corresponding blank from an electric motor part. Externally it looks like a steel disk d=290 mm and 2 mm thick. The disk, connected with the help of bolts to the hub, forms a structure to which 5 blades are already attached by welding. To increase the efficiency of the mechanism, the blades are additionally reinforced on the reverse side with stiffeners.

The motor cooling system operates on the principle of a fan, the blades of which are made of duralumin and are fixed on a pulley to start the motor.

The fan is protected by a soldered casing placed on the crankcase cover. To improve cooling quality, the cylinder head is placed at an angle of 90 degrees.

A shaft is mounted on the rotor housing on four ball bearings placed in pairs. It is fixed to the body using a steel clamping ring and bolts. The rotor body itself is pressed against the frame using a special bracket, which partially grips the pressure ring.

Assembly diagrams for the main elements of the Vyuga snow blower

The removable elements of the machine are the aluminum wall of the rotor housing and scrapers located along the frame.

A significant advantage of a homemade snow blower is the ability to adjust the working width by changing scrapers. The quality characteristics of the unit are also excellent. The weight of the structure does not exceed 18 kg, which makes it possible for women to use it, and the snow throw range is about 8 meters.

Almost every person living in a private house made a snow scraper with their own hands. The design usually resembles a shovel. Sometimes the scraper is a rectangular plate with an attached handle. To make the tool easy to use, you need to know the parameters for choosing a design. If desired, the equipment can be improved, and then clearing snow with a scraper will become entertainment.

Scraper selection options

Retail outlets offer a variety of snow scrapers, among which it is difficult to choose a convenient tool. Snow removal equipment has the following differences:

• size;
• material for making the handle and working surface;
• tool weight;
• shape of the working surface, handle;
• the presence of additional devices that simplify the removal of large snow drifts.

Usually, when buying a scraper, a person is guided by his financial capabilities, which is extremely wrong. The price is of great importance, but you also need to take into account the amount of work to be done.

First, scrapers are hand tools. Choose the size of the equipment according to your physical capabilities. The lighter and more convenient the scraper, the less fatigue you feel from clearing snow.

Advice! Plastic scrapers are optimal for women and teenagers. The equipment is lightweight and snow does not stick to its surface.

If you focus on lightness and long service life, preference is given to equipment made of aluminum or composite alloys.

Secondly, cleaning will be easier if a person does not bend over too much to scoop up snow. The scraper handle is selected according to your height. It is optimal to purchase a tool with a height-adjustable handle. Each family member can control the scraper, adjusting the handle to suit themselves.

Buckets of snow shovels and scrapers are made of plastic, composite alloys, plywood, aluminum, and galvanization. The cuttings are usually wooden or made from a thin-walled aluminum tube. The material of the handle only affects the ease of use of the scraper. The bucket is selected taking into account the surface on which snow removal is expected. To avoid damaging paving slabs or other types of decorative coating, cleaning is carried out with a plastic or wooden scraper. It is better to row on the ground or old asphalt with an aluminum or galvanized bucket. A plastic or wooden shovel will do, but they should have a steel blade on the edge that protects the blade from abrasion.

Advice! For convenient storage in the barn, it is preferable to purchase snow removal equipment with a removable handle.

Shovels-scrapers for snow removal are produced with different bucket widths, and it varies on average from 25 to 80 cm. If you plan to perform a large amount of work, it is better to purchase equipment with increased bucket sizes, for example, a drag scraper. The tool can be operated even by two people. For easy movement, choose a model equipped with casters or small wheels.

DIY snow scraper

Many owners of private yards make snow scrapers and shovels themselves. Usually the structure is assembled from a sheet of tin or plywood and a handle. Craftsmen approach solving problems creatively. Draw up a drawing of a scraper for snow removal, which includes wheels, stops, skis and other devices.

Wheeled scraper for snow removal

To clear large areas of snow, scraper blades are made, and wheels make them easy to move. To make a working surface, you will need a piece of pipe 60-80 cm long, 27-30 cm in diameter. The workpiece is opened lengthwise into 2 segments with a grinder. The solid semicircle for the blade is strongly bent. A strip 3-5 cm wide is also cut from it. You can try to slightly straighten the semicircular segment, but carefully to avoid the formation of dents from blows with a sledgehammer.

When the blade is ready, begin assembling the scraper on wheels:

1. A steel plate is welded to the back side of the blade strictly perpendicularly in the center. At its edge, 5-7 holes are drilled in a semicircle. Another hole is drilled in the center of the plate.
2. Take a piece of pipe. One hole is drilled at the end. The workpiece is connected with a bolt through the central hole of the plate. The tube will rotate up and down at the bolted connection. Now a second hole is drilled on it, matching those on the edge of the plate. The result is an adjusting mechanism for raising the blade. To fix it, use another bolt.
3. The wheelset for the scraper is taken from an old stroller or made from a piece of pipe, with rubber wheels attached to the ends. The second end of the blade adjustment mechanism tube is welded to the center of the chassis.
4. The handle in the shape of the letter “T” for the blade is made of steel pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. It can simply be welded to the center of the chassis at the desired angle, but it is better to make an adjustment mechanism, such as on the blade.
5. The scraper is almost ready, but it will scratch the tiles and knock out crushed stone from the asphalt. You can improve it with a patch knife. It is cut in the form of a strip from a thick conveyor belt. Through matching holes are drilled along the entire length of the lining and the lower part of the blade, and the parts are connected with bolts. The finished structure for clearing a large area of ​​snow is painted, providing protection against corrosion.

Before you start clearing layers of snow, set a comfortable angle for the bucket and handle. The elements are securely fixed with a bolt on the adjusting plate. They begin to shovel the snow with pushing movements forward.

Advice! If cleaning takes place on a dirt road, and the snow has compacted or turned into an ice crust, it is better to remove the rubber knife-pad. The metal edge of the bucket will make it easier to cut off ice.

A manual scraper on wheels can be easily converted into a shovel engine. The handle is disconnected from the chassis and placed on the walk-behind tractor using a hitch. If there is a motor lying around the farm, it is permanently installed on the scraper, having first welded a frame for it. Drive to the wheels is provided through a belt or chain drive.

Scraper with brush

When cleaning tile sidewalks and roofing, a telescopic snow scraper, additionally equipped with a brush, is convenient. The magazine version consists of an extendable aluminum rod with a comfortable handle attached to one end. A rectangular plate is attached perpendicularly to the second end. One of its edges is plastic or rubber, and the second is made of stiff bristles that form a brush. The hard side of the scraper is used to first remove thick layers of snow. Use a brush to sweep away the remaining thin layers.

You can assemble a similar scraper yourself, but it is better to attach the brush to the back of the blade on wheels. After one pass along the sidewalk path, the improved scraper leaves clean tiles without the slightest snow residue.

Ski scraper drawing

A traditional metal snow scraper in the form of a rectangular plate and a U-shaped handle is difficult to push. My back and arms get tired. In addition, the edge of the scraper often cuts into the ground if the tool is held at a shallow angle. The improved design shown in the drawing helps to simplify the removal of thin layers of snow. Essentially, the work consists of installing a finished scraper on the skis.

Skids 1 m long are made from corners. The edges are folded upward so that the skis do not crash into the ground. The scraper is fixed at an angle to the runners with bolts, having previously welded the eyes. The lower edge of the working plate should also rest on the skis, and not rest against the ground.

DIY snow scraper

Before you start making a scraper, you need to think about where the snow will be removed with the tool. Its shape and design will depend on this question. To remove a thin layer of snow from a flat surface, the simplest option with a U-shaped handle is suitable:

1. A rectangle is cut out of an aluminum sheet 3 mm thick or plywood 5-6 mm thick. The width of the workpiece is taken as standard - 50 or 60 cm. The length depends on the physical capabilities of the operator. Usually they adhere to the parameter from 0.8 to 1.2 m.
2. If plywood is chosen for the scraper, the edges are framed with steel tape to protect against abrasion.
3. For a U-shaped handle, it is advisable to find a thin-walled tube. An excellent option is the frame of an old folding bed. It is made from an aluminum tube and it is already bent into a “P” shape. The handle is fixed to the plate with bolts.

The scraper is pushed through the snow with both hands, holding it at an angle toward you. Cleaning with a wide tool can be done by two people.

It is more convenient to remove large drifts and transport snow outside the territory using a drag scraper. The most difficult thing to make in such a tool is a ladle. It is cut out of thin galvanized steel or sheet aluminum. The joints of connected fragments are fixed with rivets or bolts with a diameter of 5-6 mm. A U-shaped handle is fixed to the bucket with a bolt connection. Fastening is carried out as often as possible so that when lifting a bucket loaded with snow, the sheet metal does not break.

To remove snow from the roof, a plastic scraper is used. The design consists of a handle with a rectangular plate at the end. When making it yourself, the working surface is cut out of a plastic barrel. It is advisable to make the handle collapsible from aluminum tubes. This scraper makes it more convenient to remove snow from slopes without climbing on them.

For the collapsible handle, tubes of different diameters are used. If the workpieces are the same in thickness, adapters are used. We need to find at least small pieces of a smaller diameter pipe. Long pipes are placed on the workpiece at both ends. To prevent the scraper handle from coming apart while removing snow from the roof, the joints are reinforced with bolted joints.

The disadvantage of the end model is the cleaning process. You have to pull the snow on yourself. After passing one strip, the scraper is again thrown onto the top of the roof slope.

The best telescopic scraper for removing snow from the roof is a frame structure. In the home version, the handle is similarly assembled from aluminum tubes. A rectangular frame made of a rod or thin tube is attached to the end. The size of the part depends on personal preference. A long strip of waterproof fabric is fixed to the bottom element of the frame. A piece of old awning or thick film will do.

Snow removal is carried out by cutting layers. The scraper frame is pushed along the roof slope from bottom to top. The cut snow slides down the belt, falling under the foundation of the building.

The video will help you make a simple and reliable scraper:

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself snow scraper is better because it is given the desired shape and size, which determines the ease of operation. In addition, the inventory is free.

Buying a ready-made snow blower is easy.

But if there are parts, even if they are not quite suitable, you can put them together and get a completely working unit made by yourself.

Homemade snow blower design

As a basis, I used a flanged asynchronous three-phase electric motor with a power of 2.2 kW. giving 3000 rpm (1). A pulley from a VAZ car (2) was pressed onto its shaft, and 4 steel blades, 12x15 cm in size each, 3 mm thick, were welded to the pulley.

Around the resulting “fan” I assembled a housing with snow-directing blades (also made of 3 mm steel) and a pipe for throwing out snow.

The housing was secured to the motor flange with four M10 bolts.

I fixed the pipe (3) – a sewer plastic pipe, 30 cm long – into a wooden part, cutting out a hole of the required size with an electric jigsaw. Reliable fastening was ensured by self-tapping screws screwed in on three sides. The wooden part with the pipe was secured to the fan housing with the same screws. A half-bend (4) of the same diameter at 120° was placed on this pipe (to direct the flow of snow).

To the fan body I welded guide runners made of 35 mm steel angle and a steering wheel (5) - a water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, on which I attached a packet switch (6).

During operation, it turned out that there was too much load on the motor. The problem was resolved by removing two of the four fan blades. This did not affect the performance of the snow blower.

DIY snow blower - drawing

DIY snow blower: photo

© A. Loginov

Homemade snow removal equipment

A snowy winter brings a lot of worries for owners of suburban areas. One of them is snow removal. We will tell you what tools you can use to quickly and with less effort to clear paths in the garden, parking lots, and driveways after a snowfall.

If you just need to clear a driveway or parking lot, the easiest way to do this is to use hand tools. These can be shovels or scrapers (they are also called drag scrapers).

Despite their apparent fragility, plastic shovels are reliable helpers when clearing snow.

There are many types of shovels designed for snow removal. They vary in size and are made of aluminum, plastic, and wood. The lightest and most popular among summer residents are shovels with a plastic scoop. Modern manufacturers offer products made from high-quality frost-resistant plastic.

Therefore, despite their apparent fragility, they will last you a long time. The larger the area of ​​the shovel bucket and the higher the sides, the more snow can be placed in it - accordingly, the faster the work will go. But it must be taken into account that the weight of an average loaded bucket, depending on the moisture content of the snow, can reach up to 15 kg! So choose a shovel according to your strengths.

The front edge of the bucket of many shovels is reinforced with a metal plate that protects it from breakage.

When choosing a shovel, it would be useful to take a closer look not only at the volume of the bucket, but also at the handle. The handle should be light and durable, and its length should allow you to work without bending too much. Metal shovels are not much different from plastic ones. Except that they are more durable, but they will also cost about twice as much. But we suggest making a wooden shovel yourself.

Homemade shovel

To make a wooden snow shovel, you will need the following materials:

• wooden stalk 40 mm and 2 m long;
• sheet of plywood measuring 40 x 40 cm;
• board with a section of 100 * 25 mm and a length of 40 cm;
• strips of galvanized iron sheets 5-7 cm wide.

To begin with, make the back wall of the bucket from a board, one edge of which is sawed off in an arc. A hole is drilled in the center of the workpiece according to the diameter of the handle. It is better to make the hole at a slight angle to ensure comfortable planting of the cutting. Next, attach a sheet of plywood to the workpiece as a ladle and try on the handle: it will need to be sawed at an angle so that it fits snugly to the plywood. After this, it is fixed exactly in the center. When all the parts are assembled together, the joints and the working edge of the shovel are covered with strips of sheet iron to increase strength and durability.

Scraper made from… OSB!

From the half of the 0SB sheet remaining after building a house, you can make a simple scraper for clearing snow on paved areas. To make the tool convenient and maneuverable, it can be narrowed at the top - about 30 cm from each edge: the scraper will become lighter without losing performance. And for safety, we recommend cutting off the sharp corners at the bottom, as well as rounding and sanding the remaining corners and edges. Don't forget to cut holes for the hands to make the scraper easier to move.

Snow removal machines

On a large area, the most effective would be to use snowblowers. They are designed in such a way that they not only scoop up snow, but also throw it over a considerable distance. Dimensions, snow throw range, productivity and cost of such machines can vary widely.

Based on the type of engine, snow blowers can be divided into electric and gasoline. The advantages of electric ones are their relatively low price and low weight, which makes them easier to work with. The main disadvantages are related to the connection to the power source. In addition to using a good long wire, you also need to make sure that it doesn't get under your feet. The power of electric snow blowers is not very high - it does not exceed 5 hp. With.

But snowplows with gasoline engines have a power of about 6-15 hp. With. Their distinctive features are maneuverability and independence from power sources. These snow blowers can be used effortlessly to clear large snow-covered areas.

3 pros and no cons

I present to the attention of all handy summer residents a universal mini-scraper. It is very simple to make, and the benefits from it are a carriage and a small cart.

Well, firstly, it is light in weight, and therefore you can easily and quickly remove snow with its help (work productivity increases significantly). And not just to clean it up, but to transport it somewhere on a sled to virgin lands. Secondly, such a scraper is convenient for removing snow from roofs without damaging the coating. Thirdly, in the summer you can make a cart out of it by screwing wheels to it.

Now for some important notes. The height of the handle should be at waist level. It is better to assemble the scraper bucket with self-tapping screws so that you can disassemble everything if necessary.

Vasily Ivanovich Pikulev. Kudymkar, Perm region

Snow scraper

It was necessary: ​​a strip of sheet metal 100 mm wide, a metal sheet, self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a tape measure, a pencil, steel angles, press washers, hinges, metal scissors, a wooden pole.

To make it convenient to clear snow from the roof (without having to swim in it!), I made a special scraper.

Sturdy frame

I bent a strip of sheet metal into a frame measuring 800×400 mm, rounding its corners (1) and overlapping the edges with small self-tapping screws (photo 1)

By the way

Rectangle size 800×400 cm

In the middle of the workpiece, across, I installed a partition (2) made of sheet metal. I attached it to the frame with one edge using small steel corners and self-tapping screws with a press washer. The other side attached the plate with self-tapping screws to a wooden pole - the handle of the product.

Light flaps

I cut out two flap strips (3) 420 mm long from sheet metal. I attached each blank to the frame on both sides of the partition with hinges using self-tapping screws (photo 2)

At the bottom of the partition (on both sides) I installed stop rods for the flaps from long self-tapping screws with cut off heads (4)

Operating principle

For convenience, when cleaning the roof, I stand on a chair, take a pole with a scraper and point it upward along the roof away from me. At the same time, the ribs of the frame, and then the fender liners (lying on the stops) cut off the snow - it creates pressure on the entire structure, pressing it more tightly to the roof.

When the device moves backwards, the snow mass rests against the flaps from below, bringing them to a vertical position and allowing the snow to move towards the edge of the roof.

This scraper was highly appreciated by all the villagers - even the skeptics!

On a note

To make it easier to clear sloping roofs from snow, the pole must be attached to the frame at an angle depending on the characteristics of the roof. In addition, if the user is short, it is better to make the angle sharp, but for a tall person it will be more convenient - 90 degrees.

It is the stops that allow the flaps to rise vertically when the scraper moves down and clear the snow.

Scraper on wheels

I clear the road of snow and ice using a hand scraper.

To do this, I cut a pipe d 27 cm in half lengthwise, cleaned its edges - I got a scraper blade (1). For the frame I used a handle and a frame with rear wheels from an old baby stroller. I cut two stops (2) from water pipes. I cut a groove in each and put it on the wheel axle. Additionally, I fastened the “blade” and the frame with racks cut from metal pipes (3)

In order not to spoil the road surface when clearing snow, a protective conveyor tape was fixed on the underside of the “blade”. I painted the structure.

To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other water intake points, and significantly simplifies the installation process. Flexible connections are also used when installing gas equipment. It differs from similar water devices in its manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.

Characteristics and types

The flexible hose for connecting plumbing is a hose of different lengths made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Thanks to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, there is an upper reinforcing layer in the form of a braid, which is made from the following materials:

• Aluminum. Such models can withstand no more than +80 °C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity, aluminum braiding is prone to rust.
• Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water line is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
• Nylon. This braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 °C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.

The fasteners used are nut-nut and nut-fitting pairs, which are made of brass or stainless steel. Devices with different permissible temperatures differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used for connecting to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones for connecting to hot water.

When choosing a water line, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that prevents the rubber from releasing toxic components during operation.

Features of gas connections

When connecting gas stoves, water heaters and other types of equipment, flexible hoses are also used. Unlike water models, they are yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixation, end steel or aluminum reinforcement is used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:

• PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
• made of synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
• bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.

The Santekhkomplekt holding offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing fixtures and devices for connecting them to communications. The assortment is represented by products and materials from well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, each client is assigned a personal manager. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without unnecessary hassle.

Drainage is a drainage and drainage measure to remove excess groundwater.

If water does not leave the site for a long time, the soil becomes gleyed, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (get wet), you need to urgently take action and drain the site.

Causes of soil waterlogging

There are several reasons for soil waterlogging:

• clayey heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
• aquifer in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
• high groundwater table;
• technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various objects) that interfere with natural drainage;
• disruption of the water balance by the construction of irrigation systems;
• The landscape area is located in a lowland, ravine, or hollow. In this case, precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play a big role.

What are the consequences of excess moisture in the soil?

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs die. Why is this happening?

• the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and nutritional regime in the soil;
• oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
• the supply of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for absorption;
• intensive breakdown of proteins occurs and, accordingly, decay processes are activated.

Plants can tell you at what level groundwater lies

Take a close look at the flora of your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the ground water layers are located:

• perched water - it is best to dig a reservoir in this place;
• at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges grow - bladderwrack, holly, foxweed, Langsdorff's reed;
• at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass, ;
• from 1 m to 1.5 m – favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, rank;
• from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning site drainage

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

• with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
• depth of water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, grains, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
• if the groundwater is more than 2 m deep, fruit trees can be grown;
• The optimal depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Is site drainage necessary?

Record your observations for at least some time. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along the bypass channel, rather than allowing it to flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

A specialist will give you the exact answer, and we strongly recommend calling him. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness on this issue.

Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of a sewer system in an apartment building, industrial building, as well as in a private household, it is necessary to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task is used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.