Installation of gutter. Do-it-yourself roof drains from scrap materials. Gutter prices

System Information

Calculation procedure for Döcke gutters
*Calculation must be done for each eaves overhang separately

1. Gutters
   N gutters = L ÷ 3.0 m
2. Corner element
   N angles = Number corner connections gutters
3. Brackets and extensions
   A) mounting on plastic brackets: N plastic. bracket = L ÷ 0.6 m + N cornice. overhangs
   B) mounting on metal brackets or using extensions: N brackets (N extensions) = L ÷ 0.6 m + 2N funnels +N extensions
   When using extension cords, you must additionally purchase plastic brackets in quantities according to option A
4. Stubs
   N caps = (N eaves overhangs - N corners)x2
5. Elbow 45° or 72°
   N elbows = 2 x N funnels
6. Funnels*
   N funnels = S slope ÷ 50 m2 (but not less than one per slope)
7. 
   N connect. gutters = b ÷ 3.0 - 1
8. 
   N tips = N funnels
9. Funnel protective mesh*
   N grids = N funnels
10. Pipes*
    N gutters = H walls ÷ 3.0 m x N funnels
11. Coupling*
    N connect. couplings = (H walls ÷ 3.0 m - (N elbows ÷ 2) -1) x N funnels
12. Clamp*
    N clamps = H wall ÷ 1.5 m + 1

b- Length of one eaves overhang, m

L- total length of cornices, m

S- Area, m2

H- Wall height, m

N- Quantity, pcs

The calculation is indicative and requires clarification depending on architectural features specific building

General provisions

Option with a frontal plate, mounted on a plastic bracket
The brackets are placed at the level of the cord stretched between the end bracket and the funnel. The height difference between the end points of the cord should provide a slope of up to 3 mm per linear meter.

Option without frontal plate, mounted on a metal bracket
This option is used for roofs with a small sheathing pitch. The height difference is ensured by bending the bracket at the calculated location. The distance from the end of the supporting part of the bracket to the bending point should decrease as the intermediate bracket moves away from the final one.

Option without frontal plate, fastening with an extension and plastic bracket
This option is used for roofs with large sheathing pitches. The fold lines of all extensions are at the same distance. The slope is ensured by moving the plastic bracket along the extension. The bend point should be no closer than 10 mm from the mounting point of the bracket clamping plate or no closer than 10 mm from the end of the slot in the extension.

2. Ensuring the optimal position of the elements relative to the roof

The roof overhang is located above the gutter at a distance of 1/3 to 1/2 of its diameter.

The required gap between the roof continuation line and the upper part of the bracket of 25 - 30 mm is ensured by bending the final metal bracket (extension) or moving the plastic bracket.

3. Ensuring stability from deformation under vertical load

The distance between the gutter brackets should not exceed 600 mm.

The funnel must be secured at two points (or on two brackets/extensions)

The gutter connector must be secured to the water point (or to one bracket/extension).

The end of the corner element should be located no more than 150 mm from the nearest bracket.

The distance from the plug to the nearest bracket should not exceed 250 mm.

4. Ensuring compensation for linear temperature expansions

The gutter must be installed into the mating elements up to the line marked “Insert so far.” For ease of installation, point stops are formed along the edges of the line, until contact with which the gutter is inserted.

The distance from the end surface of the plug to the structural elements of the house must be at least 30 mm.

5. Ensuring the system is sealed

Before installation, you should clean the mating surfaces from dirt, make sure that there are rubber sealing gaskets and that they are tightly installed in the sockets. The spacers should extend to the ends of the sockets.

All plugs must be installed. The ends of the gutters should protrude beyond the side section of the roof by 50 -100 mm.

Mounting features

The plastic bracket, funnel and connector are attached with self-tapping screws directly to the front board.

To secure the gutter in a plastic bracket, you must first insert the edge of the gutter closest to the front board into the bracket clamp. Then, lowering the gutter into the bracket receiver and pressing firmly on the opposite edge of the gutter at the clamping point, insert the edge into the clamp until it clicks.

When attaching to a front board, it is necessary to strengthen the connection between the board and the roof to prevent it from being pulled out when loaded with snow.

The brackets are attached to the roof structural elements.

To secure a gutter, funnel or connector in metal brackets, you must first place the edge of the gutter closest to the roof under the hook of the bracket, lower the gutter into the receiving socket of the bracket and fix the opposite edge of the gutter by bending the clamping bar.

Metal extensions are used for long pitch sheathing and are attached to roof structural members.

On metal extensions, the gutter is fixed in plastic brackets.

When using the extension, the plastic bracket is secured bolted connection, which allows you to move the bracket when setting the gutter slope. A bolt (with a semicircular head) M5x30 is inserted through a washer into the upper central hole of the bracket, passes through the slot of the bracket and is tightened with a nut after the plastic bracket is aligned in required position. A washer and a spring washer must be installed under the nut. The outer diameter of flat washers must be at least 15 mm. The spring washer is installed between the washer and the nut. To avoid vertical movements, the bracket is additionally fixed to the extension through the lower hole either with a bolt (M5x30 + 2 washers) with a hex head, or with a short self-tapping screw.

The funnel and gutter connector are attached with a bolted connection (M5x30 + 2 washers) directly to the connector. The funnel is fastened with two bolts, and the connector with one.

The pipe and fittings are secured using a universal clamp. The installation location of the clamp is highlighted in red.

There are two possible fixation methods:

Pipe: fastening with slipping, on the side surface of the clamp there is the inscription “Pipe”.

Fitting: fastening with rigid fixation, on the side surface of the clamp there is the inscription “Fitting”.

The base of the clamp is screwed with a self-tapping screw (diameter M6, length from 50 mm) to the wall of the house. The clamp arms are inserted into the base until it stops. The clamp is tightened with a bolt with a semicircular head (M5, length 40 mm) and a nut.

Installation sequence

Installation of a catch basin

Install end bracket 1 taking into account clause 2 of the “General Provisions”.

Install funnel brackets 2 . For the option with a frontal board, a funnel 2 attaches without brackets.

Hang the slope of the gutter from the end bracket to the funnel bracket. For the option with a frontal plate - from the cavity of the end bracket 1 to the bottom edge of the funnel cut 2 .

Install gutter connector brackets 3 . For the option with a frontal board - install the connector itself 3 .

Connector 3 or its bracket is installed taking into account clauses 1 and 3 of the “General Provisions”.

Distance between funnel centers 2 and connector 3 should not exceed 3080 mm.

Install intermediate brackets 4 taking into account clause 3 of the “General Provisions”.

Secure the funnel 2 and gutter connector 3 on fastening elements (bracket, connector). For the option with a frontal board, a funnel 2 and connector 3 mounted without brackets.

5 and connect them to a funnel 2 and connector 3 .

Cut the gutter to the required length 6 and place it on the connector and end bracket.

Repeat the operations for the adjacent side of the roof (bracket 7 , gutter 8 ).

Install in gutters ( 8 And 6 ) gutter corner element 9 .

Cut the gutter to the required length, 10 insert into the free hole of the funnel 2 and put on the plug 11 . If the length is more than 200 mm, an additional bracket must be installed 12 .

Put on the plug 13 to the open end of the catchment.

Insert the mesh into the funnel 14 .

Installation of a spillway

Push it onto the drain hole of the funnel until it stops. 2 coupling or elbow 15 , depending on the characteristics of the installation site. Secure the coupling or elbow 15 on the funnel 2 self-tapping screw.

Assemble the required configuration of the figured part of the spillway. (Knee 15 , Pipe section 16 , Knee 17 ).

When assembling the figured part of the spillway, you must adhere to following requirements:
Fittings ( 15 And 17 ) in the figured part of the spillway are connected to each other only through an intermediate section of pipe 16 and secured to the pipe section with self-tapping screws.

Attach a universal fastening clamp to the wall of the building 19 , supporting bottom fitting 17 the figured part of the drain (the “Fitting” position). Secure the fitting in the clamp.

Put on the pipe 18 all the way to the micro protrusions (Insert so far mark) of the bottom fitting 17 figured part of the spillway.

Place the pipe vertically. Insert the lower end of the pipe into the coupling 22 . Mark the mounting locations of the clamps in the middle of the pipe 20 and opposite the place where the clamp is attached to the coupling 23.

Secure the clamps to the building: clamp 20 in the “Pipe” position, clamp 23 in the “Fitting” position. Secure the pipe and coupling in the clamps.

Cut off the end piece of pipe 21 required length. Push it all the way onto the micro protrusions (mark “Insert so far”) of the coupling 22 .

Insert the lower end of the pipe into the nozzle, set it vertically and mark the location of the clamp installation 25 opposite the place where the clamp is attached to the tip 24 . If the length of the pipe section exceeds 1500 mm, it is necessary to additionally secure it in the middle with a universal clamp (in the “Pipe” position).

Secure the clamp 25 on the building in the “Fitting” position. Secure the pipe with the coupling with a clamp. It is possible to attach the tip to the pipe with a self-tapping screw. In this case, the distance from the tip to the nearest clamp should not exceed 50 cm, and the clamp itself is set to the “Fitting” position.

Self-tapping pin M6- 1 piece

Nut M6- 2 pieces

Washers Ø15- 2 pieces

During installation, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 10 to 12 mm on a flat section of siding.

Screw in the stud 1 through the center of the hole into the wall of the house (to a depth of at least 40 mm.) If the wall is not wooden, it is necessary to install a dowel. The screw part should protrude 20 mm above the siding.

Screw the nut onto the screw part of the stud 2 flush with the siding surface. Put on the washer 3 with a diameter of 15 mm.

Place the clamp support on the pin 4 . Screw the nut from inside the clamp support until it stops. 5 with washer 6 with a diameter of 15 mm.

Place the clamp in desired position(“Pipe”\”Fitting”). Tighten the nut 2 under the clamp support until it stops with a wrench.

To install the brackets: cord, hose level, spirit level.

To attach the brackets: screwdriver, drill, screwdriver.

To bend metal brackets: bending machine.

For cuts: hacksaw, saw with a wide blade, miter box.

Purpose of elements

Gutter connector with rubber seal

Protective mesh (Clear Tube)

Plug (universal)

Corner element 90° (universal)

Plastic gutter bracket

Features of operation

Döke gutters are not required special care, only periodic inspection and cleaning is sufficient.

It is advisable to clean the gutter, mesh and pipes themselves (for example: with water from a hose).

When cleaning the gutter, do not rest the ladder on the edge of the gutter.

It is difficult to overestimate the need to drain storm and melt water from the roof surface and from the entire structure as a whole. Today, manufacturers offer enough a wide range of products that can satisfy the needs of the most demanding developer. Existing systems have sufficient durability, beautiful design, relative ease of installation and a wide color spectrum.

Having certain skills in construction, installation drainage system will not cause difficulties for a novice builder. Each manufacturer has installation instructions that will help you organize your drain yourself.

Elements, types and factors influencing the choice of drainage system

Any drain is a structure of gutters and pipes, the diameter of which depends on the load. Wastewater per linear meter of roof.

Gutters are attached to the building using brackets or hooks (a common name among many manufacturers). Pipes and gutters are connected using funnels, and the pipes are secured to the building using clamps.

Depending on the architectural features of the building, the following elements can be used to install a drainage system with your own hands:

The drain can be in the shape of a round or rectangular section. The width of the gutters directly depends on the roof area and ranges from 100 to 200 mm, and the diameter of the pipes can range from 75 to 120 mm.

The material that is mainly used to make the drainage system is plastic or metal. Galvanized drainage is almost never used due to its increased susceptibility to corrosion. Copper and titanium - zinc can also act as materials for a drainage system, but their cost is much higher.

The type of drainage system is determined at the building design stage. The drain must cope with the functions assigned to it and comply with the overall architecture of the building. The main factors that need to be considered before DIY installation are the following::

• the amount of annual precipitation in the area where the house will be built;
• color and material roofing and the facade of the building;
• roof configuration and its total area;
• architectural concept of the building.

Before making a drain yourself, read the instructions from the product supplier!

Choosing the location of drains and the necessary tools for installing a drainage system

The choice of location for water drainage is influenced by the length of the roof overhang. If the roof overhang is up to 10 meters long, one drain must be installed; if the roof length exceeds 10 meters, two drains are used.

The location and installation of drains depends on the type of roof and for correct installation You can use the diagram below with your own hands.

To install a gutter with your own hands you will need the following tool:

Installation instructions for the drainage system

1. Installation of the drainage system begins with the installation of hooks. There are mainly three types: short, adjustable and long. They can be attached to the bottom sheathing board, to the rafters, or on top of the rafters. For each of the cases, they apply different kinds hooks
2. Calculate the angle of inclination of the hooks. The recommended slope should be 2-3 mm/m. The hooks are placed side by side, numbered and the fold line is marked. Next, using a tool for bending the hooks, they are bent according to the markings.
   
3. The first drain hook is installed in such a way that the distance between the imaginary extension of the roof and outside the gutter was 20 - 25 mm.
4. Installation of hooks is done at a distance of 0.8 - 0.9 meters with an inclination angle of 2-3 mm/m relative to the horizon. Installation begins from the edge of the cornice from which the slope relative to the horizon will occur. The first and last hooks should be located at a distance of 100 - 150 mm from the edge of the roof edge.
   

   If the hooks are installed not on the front board, but on the rafters or on the last beam of the sheathing, then grooves are made to level the surfaces of the hooks with the surface of the rafters or sheathing.

   
   

   Long hooks are installed before the roofing is installed!

5. If it is necessary to make a hole in the gutter for a funnel, then Right place Mark with a pencil and use a hacksaw to cut out a hole. Using pliers, the funnel is given the required shape and the burrs are removed. The metal cut area is treated with special paint to prevent corrosion.
   

   Do not use for cutting materials grinder!

   The funnel is first attached to the outer bend of the gutter, and the fixing terminals are clamped on the inside. Next, the plug is installed on the end of the gutter using rubber mallet or hand pressing. The assembled structure is installed on the hooks by pressing at each hook.

   
   

   If possible, elements such as the funnel, caps and corners should be installed before the final installation of the gutter on the roof!

   
6. The gutters are connected using connecting locks. To do this, leave a gap of 2-3 mm between the ends of the parts being connected. Sealant is applied to the rubber gasket in the form of three lines: one is applied in the center, the rest on the sides. The back of the lock is attached to internal parties gutters. Next, the lock is pressed towards the outside to ensure a tight fit of the gasket to the gutters. Snap the lock and secure it by bending the clamping terminals. Remaining sealant must be removed.
   
7. When installing internal or external corner elements, between the connected ends, it is also necessary to make a gap of 2-3 mm and connect using clamping locks, as indicated in the instructions above.

   A gap of 2-3 mm is necessary to compensate for temperature expansion. Do not forget about this, otherwise the structure may be destroyed or “turned inside out”!

8. Installation of gutters takes place in previously designated locations. To attach pipes to walls, clamps are used, which are secured with dowels. The distance between the clamps should not exceed two meters. The pipe must be at least 40 mm from the wall. Pipe cutting must be done using a hacksaw.

   It is prohibited to cut pipes from the narrowed end!

   If it is necessary to connect two elbows, then measure the distance between the ends of the pipes. To the obtained value (in in this case"a") 100 mm is added for entry connecting pipe at the ends of the knees (50 mm for each knee).

Correct installation of the drainage system ensures 90% of its durability and normal work. It must be installed by a specialist who knows all the intricacies and rules of installation. And when self-installation Installation instructions must be followed.

However, developers continue to install gutters without following manufacturers' recommendations and make problems for themselves out of the blue. Due to careless or incorrect installation, skimping on fastenings, the functions of the drain are disrupted, which leads to roof leaks and wear of the facade.

What are the consequences of installation errors?

When installing each system, you need to take into account the material of the pipes, the method of assembling the system and the type of fasteners. And although a modern plastic drain at first glance is assembled like a construction set, “behind the scenes” remain individual characteristics systems known only to professionals.

Common mistakes when installing a drainage system.

Incorrect selection of pipe diameter and number of funnels is the reason that the system cannot cope with the water flow. This is more a design issue, but often unprofessional calculation and installation of a drainage system go hand in hand.

Gutters are installed horizontally, which causes water to accumulate in the gutter itself and in the corners of the system. If collected in tanks rainwater for irrigation - it is reasonable, then the “accumulation” of water in the gutters does not allow the drain to perform its main function - to drain water.

Stagnant water turns into ice when it gets cold and melts when it thaws, causing ice plugs to appear that impede drainage. One or two years of such operation - and the entire system will require repairs, and the plastic drain may even burst. Copper drainage is less susceptible to danger, but its cost is higher.

The roof overhangs the gutter too much or, conversely, is far from its center. It is also incorrect to install the gutter with a slope towards the wall or away from the wall of the house; in this case, overflowing over the edges of the gutter is possible during high-intensity rain.

The pipe is located very close to the wall of the house. Ill-thought-out fastening of the drainage system will lead to wet walls during rain.

The basic rules for installing a drainage system are common to all types. But in the installation of metal and plastic gutters there are some differences.

Correct installation of the drainage system.

Unforeseen difficulties with the installation of gutters can be avoided by installing them before laying the roofing.

Gutters are usually secured to the rafters, sheathing or roof fascia. But if the roof covering has already been laid, the rafters are closed, and there is no frontal board in the structure, a problem arises with fastening the drainage system. Yes, any drain can be installed on finished roof, but then the process of attaching the gutter becomes more complicated.

Let's consider the procedure and rules for installing a drainage system with differences in the installation of drains made of plastic and metal.

1. Compliance with temperature conditions during installation.

Plastic drainage is installed at temperatures above +5 ° C, metal depending on material protective coating. Minimum temperature for plastisol +10 ° C, ceramic granules -10 ° C, purala -15 ° WITH.

2. Attaching the gutter to the roof with a slope.

Rice. 1 Double slope on a line over 24 m./Simple slope on a line up to 24 m.

Gutters are installed with a slope towards the storm drain. The slope value is indicated in the installation instructions for the drainage system. As a rule, for a PVC gutter it is 3-5 mm per 1 meter, for a metal gutter 2-5 mm per 1 meter. The distance between storm drains should not exceed 24 m.

3. Install the gutter holders at the same distance.

First, the outer holders are fixed at the highest and lowest points at a distance of no more than 200 mm from the edge, and the rest are placed between them. Depending on the roof design, manufacturers provide different types hooks (holders). Long hooks are attached to the bottom of the sheathing with self-tapping screws, and compact holders are attached to the front board.

Rice. 2

The distance between the brackets for a plastic drain is a maximum of 50 cm, for a metal drain - no more than 60 cm. The gutter holders on the sides of the storm drain are located at a distance from each other of no more than 50 cm for a plastic drain and 60 cm for a metal one. The end cap of the gutter and the angle of rotation should be located at a distance of no more than 20 cm from the bracket.

4. The edge of the roof should be 1⁄3-1⁄2 of the gutters.

In this case, the gutter is located below the conditional line that continues the roof (by attaching a rail, as shown in the figure, we form this very conditional line) so that the snow does not slide onto it in its entirety.

Rice. 3 Attaching the gutter to the front board / Attaching the gutter to the sheathing

Plastic gutters are cut using a fine-toothed saw (hacksaw or tin saw), and tin snips are used for the holes. The cut edges of the plastic drain are cleaned with files or sandpaper.

Rice. 4 Pipe cutting

For cutting metal pipes You cannot use an angle grinder (“grinder”) because it heats the steel and destroys the coating.

6. Fastening the drainage system to the wall of the building with a sufficient number of pipe holders.

The holders are installed at a distance of 2 m from each other for buildings up to 10 m high and 1.5 m for buildings above 10 m. The pipe should be located at a distance of 3-8 cm from the wall of the building. The bend of the pipe is formed using elbows.

Plastic drains connect:

• on glue ( cold welding);
• on latches and clamps;
• on rubber seals.

Metal:

• on seals;
• clamps.

Connect elements plastic pipe necessary taking into account the gap to compensate for linear expansion. The drain is mounted at a distance of 25 cm from the ground or 15 cm from the blind area.

When installing a drain, be sure to follow the installation rules of the drainage system and the manufacturer's recommendations.

Is it possible to save money on installation?

You can install the drain yourself, strictly following the installation instructions for the drainage system. Pay attention to the strength and reliability of fasteners and components.

Consequences of errors when installing a drainage system:

• if you install fewer brackets, the gutter may bend and crack under the load;
• if the drain is placed too high, water will fall on the walls of the house, destroying the facade;
• wrong assembled pipes may leak and burst.

A standard gutter holder can support about 75 kg, but it is not the weight that is important, but the supporting area. If you install fewer holders, the pressure is concentrated at one point and is not distributed over a meter of length. The gutter will “lead” or it will break.

Again, competent calculation of the system during design will reduce costs. Then you will gain optimal quantity elements without compromising the reliability and proper operation of the system.

Checking whether the drain is installed correctly is quite simple. The slope of the gutter can be measured with a regular building level or a hydraulic level, if possible - with a level and theodolite. The tightness of the connections is checked as follows: plug drain holes, pour water into the gutter and see if a leak appears at the joints. You can also then open the drain and see how quickly and completely the water drains. The throughput and the absence of overflows are checked by directing a watering hose with medium water pressure onto the slope. The correct location of the gutter at the edge of the roof is checked by applying a strip to the slope. It should not rest against the gutter, but pass over it.

It is better to entrust the installation of a drain to a specialist. But if you still decide to install it yourself, you must follow the installation instructions for the chosen eastern system. This way you can avoid serious mistakes and ensure correct work drainage throughout the entire service life.

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One of the key stages in arranging the roofing system of a house is drainage. Without its organization, it is impossible to protect the facade of the building from rain and water flows during the snow melting period.

How to install drains correctly and what to consider when installing a structure, we will look at this article.

The question of how the drainage system will be arranged must be resolved at the design stage of the building.

When making calculations, you must be guided by the requirements of the current SNiPa 2.04.01-85. This approach will allow you to correctly select, taking into account all the nuances best option design execution.

The key purpose of the drainage system is to collect and drain precipitation, thereby protecting the walls and foundation of the building from premature destruction

Key points to follow when designing a drainage system:

1. After making a copy of the roof drawing, draw a plan for the location of the drainage elements.
2. Calculate total area the roof and all its slopes separately, taking into account the adjacent vertical walls.
3. Taking as a basis the readings of rain intensity in a given area, determine throughput systems.
4. In accordance with the obtained values, determine the diameter of the installed drainpipes, the number and cross-section of drain funnels, as well as the frequency of their placement along the wall of the building.

The result should be a system capable of collecting and discharging maximum amount liquids.

At the design stage, it is important to determine the location of the risers so that they do not disturb the exterior composition. Most often they are placed in the corners of the building, but the option of arrangement in a niche created by a bay window is quite acceptable.

If the pipe coming from the drains is discharged onto a blind area, it is better to remove the risers as far as possible from the entrances to the drains. basements, basement ventilation vents and pedestrian paths laid near the house.

Components of a drainage system

The system includes two groups of parts - horizontal and vertical drainage parts. Together they number about a dozen species structural elements, each of which performs the task assigned to it.

The main thing when choosing the components of a drainage system is to select elements that constructively, and by appearance harmoniously complement the overall picture

The structural elements of the drainage system are:

• drainpipes– key functional elements systems designed to move masses of water from the roof;
• gutters– narrow channels for collecting and redirecting water;
• funnels– conical sockets in the upper part of the pipe are designed to collect, retain and drain water flowing down the gutters;
• knee– structures in the form of short curved sections of pipes are installed to change the direction of water flow;
• brackets– fasteners for fixing the gutter to the roof;
• seals– additional elements ensure fastening strength at joints;
• clamps– fasteners for fixing the structure to the facade of the building.

Calculation of the required number of elements

It is better to entrust this rather important undertaking to specialists who sell drainage systems, or to specialists from a company that provides roofing installation services. In the absence of such an opportunity, the calculation can be performed on your own.

Since in private construction many are trying to avoid typical options and similar roof designs, required amount system elements should be calculated individually

Key points for proper calculation:

1. Gutters. The total length of the channels must correspond to the length of all roof slopes used to collect water. They are connected using connectors.
2. Water intake funnels. They are installed at the outer corners of the building and additionally placed every 8-12 meters so that the overall slope of the channels is not too large.
3. Drainpipes. The number of products corresponds to the number of funnels, and the length corresponds to the distance from the roof to the ground surface.
4. Brackets. The number of brackets is determined on the basis that one element is required for each meter of channel. Additional holders will be required for funnels in the center and walls and in the corner of the house.

The number of clamps directly depends on the height of the building. But in any case, each individual pipe section being installed is secured with at least one clamp. During installation drainpipe in a one-story building, three fasteners located at the top, bottom and middle of the product are often sufficient.

When calculating, they take as a basis the condition that for 1 sq.m of roof in horizontal projection there should be 1.5 sq.cm of cross-sectional area of ​​the drain and funnel. For example: the cross-sectional area of ​​a pipe D 100 mm is 78.5 sq.cm. This is the average value.

Depending on whether you have to install the system in regions with high level precipitation, or, conversely, in arid areas, adjustments are made to the calculations.

Methods for attaching brackets

It is worth installing brackets according to the rules at the stage before laying the roof. If the fixation is carried out after the coating has been laid, then ordinary short hooks are used as fasteners.

Image gallery

Short brackets are attached to the front board so that they create a slope towards the drainage funnel. We calculate how much lower the funnel hook should be than the highest holder. Mark the position of the outer brackets on the board

We screw on the two outer holders: the highest and the lowest, located next to the funnel. We connect them with fishing line or cord

We check with the building level whether the slope is created by the hooks and whether its value meets the conditions specified by the manufacturer of the drainage system

Fixation method involving fastening to rafter leg, is effective for arranging the roofs of houses in regions with heavy rainfall. It is also used when it is necessary to drain water from roofs that have large area, for covering which heavy coverings are used.

When fastening to a rafter leg, to increase reliability between fastenings, maintain an equidistant distance of 50 centimeters

With this method, the hooks are inserted behind the base and installed at an equidistant distance in order to ensure the desired slope of the gutter.

The third method of fixation, which involves fastening to a sheathing, is most often used when arranging a roof covered with ondulin or metal tiles. It is chosen only if the recesses cannot reduce bearing capacity battens in the eaves area.

To fix the sheathing onto the counter-battens, use combined models of brackets or long metal hooks, deepening them into the long grooves of the mounting strips

When choosing the third method of fixation, it is important to remember that only strict adherence to installation rules and installation procedures can ensure the reliability and durability of the structure.

Gutter installation technology

Installation of equipment for drains is carried out after completion facing works. There is nothing complicated about how to prepare and install a gutter. Installation PVC systems Even a novice master can do it.

Assembly and installation of a drainage system includes a number of standard steps:

Image gallery

Ideally, the drainage system is installed before the roof is laid. But in the case of piece covering, you can remove the bottom row of tiles and carry out the work

Before attaching the brackets, we select the optimal position of the outer holders. They should provide a slope towards the drainage funnel; the width of the gutter should protrude 1/3 beyond the edge of the eaves

According to the mark, bend the legs of the two outer brackets located at the highest and lowest points of the gutter

After installing the two extreme brackets, we connect them by pulling a fishing line or twine. This line is needed for precise marking of row holders

At building levels, we check the slope created by the holders

We close the edges of the gutter located near the corner of the slopes with plugs to prevent water from flowing past the funnel

If the length of the slope being constructed is more than 3 meters, then we extend the gutters using a connector that compensates for linear expansion

Some craftsmen cut metal gutters and pipes using a grinder. But this is far from The best decision, since the rotating disk heats up during operation polymer coating. And this can cause damage to the drainage elements during operation.

The first step is to install brackets that are designed to support drainage funnels, placing them at a distance of 5-10 cm from the elements

The installation of brackets begins with the installation of the outermost elements. Then the distance between the drainpipes is divided into equal intervals of 60-80 cm in length for the installation of the remaining hooks.

To simplify your task by ensuring a uniform slope of the gutters in the direction of the water intake funnels, it is better to pull the cord when marking. The boundary values ​​of the slope are from 2 to 5 mm per linear meter. To increase the accuracy of installation, it is better to mark several key lines by pulling the string in two or three rows.

If you have to work with metal hook-brackets, before attaching them, they must be bent in accordance with the angle of the roof.

During the installation of brackets, the slope is achieved by moving short fasteners vertically or by bending metal holders at the calculated location.

In order not to disturb the galvanization and not damage the polymer coating, they are used to bend fasteners. special device– flat bending

Fix the brackets on the mounting plate at three points using self-tapping galvanized screws, not forgetting to correct deviations from the direction specified by the cord along the way

Collection of the drainage system can be done in one of two ways:

1. Lay out all the elements on the ground in a horizontal position, and then insert assembled structure into brackets fixed around the perimeter of the building. This method is suitable for small houses and small areas finishing.
2. The traditional option involves the phased assembly of all system elements directly on the building.

Installation of the drainage system should be carried out in the order “from top to bottom”: first, water inlets are installed, then the drainage risers are connected. This is dictated technological features drainage system.

With traditional step by step version assembly of all elements of the drainage system, installation of the structure is carried out strictly according to the “top to bottom” principle

Before attaching gutters to parts of the roof, funnels are first installed, not forgetting to take into account possible temperature expansions. Then the gutters are installed, placing them 2 cm below the line, which conditionally acts as a continuation of the overhang. They are produced in lengths of 3-4 meters. Gutters that occupy extreme positions in the line will most likely have to be cut.

When installing gutters, it is worth remembering that they must be at least one third covered by the overhang of the eaves. Ideally, the overlap should be half its own diameter.

The gutter is placed in holders slightly bent state, inserting first the far side of the hook into the grooves, and then the near side, and fixing it by snapping

Installation of plastic gutters is perfect option for those who want to independently protect the roof of their house from excess moisture. The function of the drainage system is to quickly remove precipitation from the roof of the building. How it is installed (correctly or incorrectly) will determine how long and how efficiently the system will function. In fact, installing a drainage system with your own hands is not difficult. The main thing is to follow the instructions for assembling and installing system elements. The installation of plastic gutters can be structured into several stages.

Installation of roof gutters: preparatory stage

The advantages of plastic gutters are as follows:

Great popularity and competitiveness;

Durability of use;

Decorative.

However, plastic gutters also have disadvantages. Firstly, this is the fragility of the structure. Secondly, if the system elements are installed incorrectly, the plastic may change color or shape.

First you need to do all the calculations. To calculate the diameter and length of the system, you need to take into account the height of the building and the area of ​​its roof.

Calculation template: building height=4.5m, roof area=9m. With these initial data, the installation of plastic gutters will require the following:

Three-meter gutters (3 pieces),

Gutter plugs (right and left),

Funnels (2 pieces),

Brackets - required for attaching the gutter (16 pieces),

Plastic pipe 3 m long (4 pieces),

Pipe fastenings to the wall (10 pieces),

45-degree pipe turns (6 pieces).

Required inventory:

1) Construction knife

2) Hammer

3) Level

7) Bulgarian

Installation of roof gutters: installation stage

It is not difficult to install a drainage system with your own hands. First you need to decide on the location of the drainage system. In places where installation is planned drain pipes, funnels should be installed.

The fastenings – brackets – should be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the wall. Between them you need to maintain a distance of 500-600 mm.

The DIY drainage system continues with the installation of gutters.

Many people prefer to assemble gutters with plugs and funnels directly on the ground. After which the entire structure is lifted up and attached to the brackets. It is problematic to do this on your own, alone. Therefore, it is best to assemble the drainage system at the top in stages.

The gutters are mounted from the funnel, and they are joined using connectors. The edges of these elements are entered before a special mark.

If you need to cut the gutter to a given size, then in this case you can use a hacksaw. The burrs are removed with a file.

Plugs are installed on the end side of the gutters. The distance from the gable board to the cap must be at least 30 mm.

They begin to install the drainage system with their own hands from the funnel. If the roof extension is small, it is recommended to use a coupling.

In order to connect the pipes, couplings should be used, as mentioned earlier. It is necessary to leave a gap in the coupling when entering the down pipe. A bracket (with a clamp) is installed under this element.

Tees are mounted similarly to couplings, as shown in the photo below.

Then the elbow is glued to the lower pipe.

Next you need to install a storm drain. It is installed in the place where water will come out of the drainpipe. For this you will need polymer pipes, which are discharged into the well. You need to dig a trench from the house and install a filter well. Pipes are laid in the trench. One end of the pipe will be installed in the filter receiver, and the other in the pit. The pit can be purchased at a specialized store. After the pipe is laid in the trench, the storm drain is concreted.

This completes the installation of plastic gutters.