Installation of tiles. Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on the floor. Pre-leveling work

05-10-2014

It is difficult to find such a popular facing material as tile. It is used for finishing the most various rooms. In most cases, installation tiles carried out in bathrooms, bathrooms, showers, staircase landings and steps.

Advantages of using facing material

The use of tiles is not a tribute to past traditions. Her choice demonstrates the rational approach of the property owner. Despite the availability of many of the latest floor and wall coverings, tiles will never go out of style. Thanks to the unique operational characteristics This facing material is far superior to most modern coatings.

The advantages of using tiles include:

• environmentally friendly and absolutely harmless to human health (made from natural clay);
• resistance to negative impact wet and chemical environment;
• ease of installation;
• easy cleaning from various contaminants;
• excellent practicality;
• long operational period (up to 40 years);
• attractive appearance;
• fire safety;
• excellent antistatic properties;
• the coating does not absorb odors;
• affordable price;
• preservation of the original appearance throughout the entire service life;
• variety of shapes, sizes and textures (tiles imitating natural stone are especially popular).

Tile production occurs by firing the raw materials from which it is made. Thanks to this, the following are destroyed:

• substances that may cause an allergic reaction;
• all fungi and bacteria.

Perhaps the only disadvantage of tiles is fragility. It is not very resistant to mechanical damage as a result of impacts from a hard or heavy object.

To lay tiles we will need:

• the facing material itself;
• primer;
• glue;
• grout mixture;
• solution container;
• wooden slats;
• rags;
• flannel fabric;
• level (laser and regular);
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• drill with mixer;
• tile cutter;
• glass cutter;
• marker;
• mites;
• a set of spatulas (toothed and rubber tools are required);
• trowel;
• wooden hammer;
• plastic crosses;
• rule;
• wide knife;
• drywall;
• polypropylene mesh;
• PVA glue;
• staples;
• water;
• soap;
• construction pistol.

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Tile installation technology

At the initial stage, the surface on which the coating will be laid is prepared.

It is cleaned, leveled and dried. The surface is primed.

The prepared floor base is marked. To ensure sufficient access to the walls, skirting boards and door trim are removed. The midpoints are measured on opposite walls. This is necessary to determine the center lines of the room.

The purchased tiles are laid out on the marked surface with your own hands. This is how it is determined whether there will be areas where a whole tile will not fit. If there are such areas, you will have to cut the tiles.

There are the following methods for installing tiles:

• traditional;
• in a checkerboard pattern;
• diagonally;
• herringbone;
• modular grid.

Depending on the installation method, the first row of material will be laid. The first type of installation is used in fairly spacious rooms, and tiling work begins from the middle of the wall. When working in smaller rooms, everything starts from the second row. It is best to do diagonal laying of cladding in spacious and large rooms, however this method the most complex and time-consuming.

When laying diagonally:

• the frieze is marked;
• Whole and cut tiles are laid around the perimeter;
• the frieze is laid.

The even position of the facing material during work is achieved using a level. You should also pay attention to the corners of the tiles. Sometimes you come across tiles that are concave unevenly or may have a protrusion. In this case, in order to prevent floor unevenness, the tiles are placed slightly below the planned level. One requirement is fulfilled unquestioningly - the seams must always coincide in perpendicular directions.

Laying the tiles begins on the wall opposite the entrance to the room. Attached to the bottom of the wall wooden slats, on which the first row of tiles will subsequently rest. Traditional technology Installation of tiles (joint to joint) requires compliance with the coincidence of vertical and horizontal seams. To check the vertical deviation, you must use a plumb line and level.

A very important stage is preparing the solution for high-quality adhesion of the tiles to the wall. The preparation of the adhesive mixture is carried out in any suitable container, in which sequentially:

• water is poured;
• dry adhesive mixture is poured;
• The solution is thoroughly mixed.

After a few minutes, the prepared solution is mixed again and infused until smooth for 1-2 minutes.

The next step is to apply glue to the base under the tiles. Working with heavy (floor) facing material done using a notched trowel. The glue is applied to the base of the floor with the smooth side and spread over the surface with the serrated side of the tool. Required thickness The glue layer should be slightly higher than the height of the spatula teeth.

Having placed the tile on the floor or the first row of the wall, it should be pressed very tightly with your hands over the entire surface. For greater effect, the tiles are tapped with a wooden hammer. To obtain identical width and distance between tile seams, plastic cross separators are used. Having placed the tile on the glue, you need to tap and punch it with a mallet along the entire width and length of the tile, at the same time clearing it of any glue residue.

The crosses are removed 1-2 hours after laying the tiles. The next day, you can seal the seams between the tiles. This work is carried out using a special grout. Using a rubber spatula, apply the grout solution to tile joints, all gaps, cracks and holes are rubbed.

After sealing the seams, you should wait about an hour. The grout should harden. The tiles are washed using a sponge or rag soaked in warm water. It is imperative to wash off the grout and excess glue residues in a timely manner, since the top (glazed) layer of the tile is damaged very easily. The created tiled surface is polished with flannel cloth.

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Cutting tiles

In some cases, it is not possible to lay the entire tile. We have to resort to cutting it. Before this process is carried out, the tiles are soaked in clean water for approximately 2-3 hours. Wall tiles should be cut with the simplest glass cutter, and thicker ones flooring- tile cutter.

When cutting the material with a glass cutter, the cut line is drawn further than 10 mm from the edge of the tile. The glass cutter must be used after marking the cut line, pressing evenly on the tile and leaving a noticeable and clear mark. After this, the tile is placed on the edge of a solid object. Pressure is applied to the area that needs to be cut off. The tile will break exactly along the cut of the glass cutter.

It's even easier to work with a tile cutter. The main thing is that the wheel of the device does not move from side to side - this will lead to crooked cuts. The tiles are marked with a marker and placed in the base of the tile cutter. Next, the following actions are carried out:

• The tile cutter wheel is aligned with the drawn line:
• the handle of the device rises;
• the wheel touches the line on the tile;
• a movement of the handle towards you is made;
• Only one pass with the wheel is carried out.

The remaining excess pieces of tile are removed using pliers. The tiles are cut only once, after which they become fragile and of poor quality. If it is necessary to create a hole in the tile, remove it in its place. glossy surface. And then the hole is drilled with a drill.

There is no need to turn to the services of expensive craftsmen to lay tiles. At the right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Considering the average prices for laying tiles, the savings can be significant. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules if you plan to lay tiles with your own hands, so that the result is the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

1. surface preparation (forming screed, plastering walls);
2. marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
3. laying the first row or several multidirectional rows according to the markings;
4. filling the entire area with solid tiles;
5. cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
6. grouting joints (jointing).

Tools for tiling work

The tools required for surface preparation are selected depending on the required operations and technologies for performing the work. Directly for installation you will need the following:

• trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber hammer, solution container. In places where a whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or wire cutters, a large needle file or sandpaper, Bulgarian.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to correctly estimate the required number of tiles, you should not only measure the square footage of the surface to be covered, but also estimate the number of tiles that will need to be cut into pieces. All this depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of various obstacles in the form of pipe outlets, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately follows on top of the calculated quantity square meters Take enough tiles to lay two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for bathroom and kitchen cladding, where you need to use moisture-resistant compounds. Moreover, when proper preparation surface, the solution consumption is minimal, and the cost of installation is significantly reduced.

Read more about calculating materials for tile work.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly smooth and durable, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. Under no circumstances should you expect that small unevenness on the floor or wall can be covered by using more mortar under the tiles. A high-quality result can only be achieved when all the material is laid evenly on a small layer of adhesive.

Before laying tiles on the floor, a screed should be formed. In the bathroom and toilet, a layer of waterproofing is necessarily formed. Screeding can also be done using the wet method, adhering to the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay tiles on concrete base, that is, on wet screed. If the old coating is being replaced, then it is used and the surface is leveled with cement mortar.

In order to tile the walls, it is necessary to get rid of all the old covering and plaster the walls with mandatory reinforcement construction mesh. It's best to do this. There is no need to use putty, nor should it be perfect smooth surface, this may impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All skirting boards and platbands are dismantled doorway and thresholds. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

If you are confident in the reliability of the layer old tiles or just want to save time - check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Marking and installing supports

options for non-standard installation of floor coverings

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare markings and stops for the first row along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

At the very bottom, a plastic corner or wooden strip is fixed on which the first row will rest. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the installation. In case of using multi-colored tiles or various types mosaic installations It is best to mark with marks the places where tiles other than the mass are laid.

Floor

A line is drawn for the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row. The locations of the tiles that will differ from the main mass when the pattern is formed are marked. Laying floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, you should shift the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account not only the size of the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling schemes

Having prepared the markings and guidelines, you can begin installation. To do this, a solution of tile adhesive is applied to the wall using a notched trowel with a thickness equal to the depth of the teeth. The tile is first leaned against a support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully lay the tile with your own hands on the mortar. There is no need to press it down. Slightly turning the tile along its axis light movements, achieves maximum adhesion of the product with the solution.

Remember that removing the tile from the surface after laying it on the mortar will be problematic, so you should immediately position it as correctly as possible. You can only move it slightly to the sides. The correct installation should be checked using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile a little, use a rubber hammer. There are crosses in the corners to maintain gaps. After this, you can begin further installation.

Do not press down the tile too much so that the mortar protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tiles and will give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When your hand is already full, you can apply the solution, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after distributing the mortar, the tiles are installed in their places and settled on the mortar with small circular movements. After this, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, using a level, the entire laid row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the first row, it is best to wait for the glue underneath to set properly. After this, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break from work, then all the mortar that is located not under the tile, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done and it dries, then before continuing work you will have to chip off the frozen mortar, which will affect the strength of the connection of the already laid tiles. All excess mortar is also removed in places left for laying cut tiles.

Step 4. Fill in the remaining areas

Having laid out the entire space where solid tiles are used, you can begin cutting the missing pieces and installing them. You can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter; in extreme cases, a grinder will do. IN latest version There will be a lot of dust, so pruning is best done outside. Tile marking is done taking into account gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, either a manual tile cutter or an electric machine with a diamond wheel is used. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grouting (jointing)

After completely laying the tiles on the wall or floor, you should wait until the adhesive solution dries. After this, all the crosses between the tiles are removed and the joints are jointed. To do this, you can use cement-based, silicone or epoxy grouts. First of all, you should select a suitable grout according to color design the selected coating. In terms of characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cement grout It is distributed in dry form and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grout are sold ready-to-use in sealed containers.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After this, if silicone or epoxy grout is used, the edges of the tile are additionally covered with masking tape. If this is not done, it will be difficult to remove the dried mixture from the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, apply a small amount of grout over the seam and press it inwards. By placing a rubber spatula across the seam and pressing along it, the excess is removed. In this case, the seam deepens a little and is evened out.

Masking tape and grout residues should be removed after use. completely dry. Having cleaned and washed the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered complete.

Note: installation is done in the same way ceramic tiles. The differences partly relate only to the nuances in the methods of cutting tiles.

A little about cutting tiles

Almost no tiling work can be completed without the need to trim it. This can be done most different ways: starting from a glass cutter and ending with modern machines with a diamond cutting wheel. If using a mechanical hand tool, then the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. After which scrapping is carried out. Floor tiles are more massive and cannot be cut beautifully with a glass cutter. All types of tile cutters have a significantly larger cutting wheel of 1.6 cm to create a deeper cut.

For example, consider the cutting option using a mechanical tile cutter:

1. This tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with limiters on which ruler markings are applied. This makes it easier to cut a whole row of tiles of the same size. Setting up limiters required distance so that the intended cutting line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
2. At the top of the tool, a carriage runs along two guides, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, the petals of which are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We move the carriage to the edge farthest from us. Place the wheel on the edge of the tile and apply pressure along its surface along the cutting line.
3. After this, the stop on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and light pressure is used to stake the tile.

The difficult part is not the straight cut or the diagonal, but the curly cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for exiting wires, bypassing sockets or exiting water pipes. In this case, the shape of the cutout is outlined on the glazed side, and a neat cutting wheel is drawn along the line. manual tile cutter. After this, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile piece by piece until only the part required in shape remains. The resulting edge will be quite uneven; to solve this problem, use a file or sandpaper.

Using electric machine the entire part that should be removed from the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bitten off; the edge is also compared with a file.

• It’s good if the length of the row fits the tiles without the need to trim the end. If this is not the case, then the laying row should be shifted so that last tile was whole. If the remaining gap requires a piece of 1-2 cm, the row is further shifted so that wider pieces are placed on both edges. This will eliminate the need for labor-intensive cutting of narrow strips of tile.
• The same applies to marking the position of rows in height, especially when laying is not done to the ceiling, but to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first bottom row is formed from pieces, and the top one from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
• It is best to lay tiles in the corridor, starting from filling the space along the long walls, leaving a gap of one tile in the middle or at one of the edges. It is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to get confused and not make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
• If used various options laying in the form of a figured structure or using tiles different colors, you should designate in advance the locations of tiles that differ in shape, direction or design. Separating individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern by spacing the joints is often used. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of cut tiles for filling last.
• Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive you are using. Some options involve dampening the surface of the tile before installing it on a layer of adhesive applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

Laying tiles with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. If you can’t afford to pay the cost of these works, but a beautiful bathroom and kitchen never leave your dreams, then with the right approach, you can do everything yourself.

If you take into account all our advice, practice, you will definitely get good at it, and you will never be interested in the cost of laying tiles. You yourself can transform your room with the help of this practical, durable, beautiful material.

We calculate the required amount of material

So, for this stage you will need: a level (plumb), a tape measure, paper and a pen. Calculations must be carried out very carefully.

The intended location of the tiles, be it a wall or a floor, is measured horizontally and vertically. According to the result obtained and the estimated size of the tile, the required number of tiles is calculated. Special attention should be paid to the corners. If the corners are crooked, you will additionally need several partial tiles to avoid gaps.

Next, you need to sketch out the layout of the tiles and choose the type of cladding. Possible options Laying tiles are: diagonal laying, “joint to joint” and laying in a run. On at this stage you also need to determine the availability and required quantity decorative elements: friezes, borders, slabs with drawings.

In order not to be mistaken in the quantity of tiles purchased, you can draw up a mini-diagram on paper on an appropriate scale, which will clearly indicate the location of both the tiles themselves and the decor. After this, you can only begin to purchase and lay tiles, the price of which is often quite high. So it should work important rule: “Measure seven times, and cut once!”

Laying tiles on the floor

The tiles are laid only perfectly flat surface floor. Therefore, if the differences are impressive, you should think about floor screed. All types of screeds are suitable for tiles. On top of gypsum fiber sheets with a dry screed, the tiles are glued with Fliesenkleber glue. Only fulfilling all preparatory work proceed directly to installation.

According to the rules for laying tiles on the floor, we first determine the pattern. To do this, we lay out two cross rows along the longitudinal and transverse axis. And special plastic crosses inserted between the tiles will help control the thickness of the seam.

Exist different ways laying tiles.

Traditional

Diagonally

With offset (staggered)

Herringbone

Herringbone with attachment

Modular grid

Depending on what you choose, the first row of tiles is laid. When using the direct (traditional) method in large rooms, installation begins from the middle, and in small rooms - from the second row.

Using diagonal laying First, the frieze is marked, then whole tiles are laid around the perimeter, then cut tiles are laid, and then the frieze is laid. After laying the first trial row, be sure to check its flatness using a level.

Special attention should be paid to the corners. Since the tiles may not be concave in the same way, the corners may protrude, therefore, to avoid unevenness of the floor, the tiles must be set slightly below level. Be sure to ensure that the seams in perpendicular directions match.

Using a level and a corner, we lay the lighthouse tiles. If the floor is uneven, they are installed at the highest point. Next, mortar or glue is applied to the place where the tiles will lie, the tiles are placed on top and carefully tapped with a rubber hammer. Afterwards, you can fill the remaining space in rows, periodically monitoring the level of tile laying.

The tiles are perfectly attached to the floor using:

• cement mortar;
• glue;
• cement mortar diluted with plasticizers;
• bitumen mastic.

Laying tiles on the wall

Laying methods

Laying tiles on the wall can be done in three ways: the traditional “joint to joint”, in a checkerboard pattern (“interlinked”) or diagonally.

In the first case, you need to constantly monitor the coincidence of the vertical and horizontal seams, and also measure the tiles by size.

When using “banded” cladding, the middle of the tile from the top row is located above the joint of the tiles from the bottom row. Installation using this method is greatly simplified, because... There is no need to constantly monitor the matching sizes of the tiles.

Diagonal laying can be seen more often in large rooms. The method is considered quite labor-intensive and complex, so if you decide to use the services of specialists, the prices for laying tiles may not please you. The main points that you need to pay attention to are the perpendicularity of the seams and the correct abutment of the tiles to the walls.

Surface preparation

First, possible deviations of the surface from the axes are checked: horizontally for the floor and vertically for the walls. The maximum permissible percentage of deviation is 0.2%, i.e. it should not exceed 2 mm per meter of length.

Using a plumb line or level, we check the vertical deviation for the walls. At correct installation the plumb error will be smaller. It is best to hang the plumb line on nails specially driven into the corners of the room. Using a long ruler, the deviation is checked over the entire height and width.

A flat surface is the key to success. Possible gaps immediately become visible if you apply an even beam or level. If there are large recesses, they must be carefully filled with putty. Small gaps up to 2 mm can be left unchanged.

Now, tapping the surface, we test it for strength. The presence of a bubbling sound indicates a loose fit of the layer. In this case, the surface is cleaned until brickwork or concrete. During tapping, sand shedding is also possible: such a layer is removed or strengthened using specially designed means.

Technology for laying tiles on wooden surface involves the use of roofing material and metal mesh. Slats and roofing felt are placed on the wall, and a mesh is attached. It is plastered on top with a 15 mm layer of mortar, after which the tile dries.

In the figure: 1 - stuffed bars, 2 - wooden base, 3 - roofing felt or roofing felt, 4 - mesh, 5 - cement plaster, 6 - tiles

Grease stains, dirt, remnants of soap solution, paint - none of this should be on the prepared surface, otherwise the tile will not stick firmly enough. Painted walls are particularly troublesome. Removing paint is a rather labor-intensive process, but with the help of a hammer drill with a spatula or a cutting machine with a card brush, it can be significantly simplified and speeded up. The tile will adhere better if the surface is primed.

Laying technology

The technology for laying tiles on the wall involves preliminary laying of lighthouse tiles. To install the beacons evenly, pull the thread, which lags behind the surface by 5 mm. They are guided by it when installing beacons and leveling the plane. In this case, the vertical and horizontal parameters must be monitored. It is best to use alabaster for installation, because... it hardens instantly, and after laying the row, it is quickly and easily cleaned from the lighthouse tiles, which are already installed on a permanent base.

The wall begins to be covered from the center of the wall towards the corner. The center of the wall must be marked by drawing a pencil vertically to the floor. From this place they begin laying. If, in a checkerboard pattern in the first row, the center line runs along the junction of two tiles, then in the second row it will be on a whole tile.

Now we mark the rows horizontally and carefully lay the tiles, starting from the very bottom. If you are sure that the floors are level, then the tiles can be installed directly on them.

If during the installation process you notice that you have deviated from a straight line, the already laid tile can be slightly raised. This is done using wedges that are tapped under the tiles.

The tiles can also be installed on a screwed rail, in the corners of which plumb slats with an attached cord are placed. All this is done in order to lay the tiles evenly both horizontally and vertically. After the tiles are laid, all fixtures are removed and the voids are filled with mortar.

We carry out installation directly as follows: on reverse side tiles, using a trowel, apply a solution (cement, glue), distribute it with a comb, press it tightly to the surface, and tap it. To do this, use a rubber hammer. The level of the tile should coincide with the level of the previously stretched rope. The entire space between the tile and the wall must be filled with mortar, otherwise adhesion will decrease over time and the tile may fall off. The applied layer of solution should be from 7 to 15 mm. The remaining mortar that appears on the seams is removed with a trowel.

We insert special crosses between the tiles, which will allow you to control the thickness of the seam. After the installation process is completed, carefully clean the seams from any remaining mortar and dust, and remove the crosses.

Cutting tiles

In some cases, if the size of the room requires it, you need to cut the tiles. For floor tiles use a tile cutter, for wall tiles - roller glass cutter or carbide cutter.

Before cutting, the tiles are marked. Then a cutter is drawn along the attached metal ruler with pressure, after which the tile itself is broken, placing it under it. wooden block, or special forceps.

Grouting joints

The last stage is grouting the joints. Their width for tiles whose size is 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 60 cm should be on average 3 mm. The surface will look more aesthetically pleasing if colored grout is applied to the seams. But even ordinary white grout will give the wall with laid tiles a neat and finished look.

The grout is applied either with a special scraper, grater, or using a bag with a nozzle, reminiscent of a pastry shop. After application, the grout is spread evenly to fill all the seams. Then the dry excess is removed with a grater, and the seams are treated with a sponge soaked in water.

If the tiles are glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If the tile is matte, then before grouting it is moistened with a sprayer.

Used for grouting cement mixture or epoxy resin. Unglazed tiles are additionally treated with sealant. This will prevent stains from appearing both on the tile itself and in the seams.

A master class on laying tiles (video) is easy to find on the Internet. Are you now wondering how much it costs to lay tiles? We are sure you can do everything yourself!

Ceramic tiles themselves are not very expensive, considering their durability and practicality. But styling can double the cost facing works. The master needs not only to recreate the intended design, but also to correctly think through the layout in order to avoid unsightly scraps, trim the tiles correctly and lay them out in one plane. This is a complex and painstaking job that requires experience, but if you want to save money, laying tiles with your own hands is quite possible, and from this lesson you will learn the main points of the technology.

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Preparation

You should start by removing the old finish. Installation of tiles can be done even on old tile, if it holds well and notches are made on it with a chisel so that the glue has something to grab onto. But it would be more ideal to remove the old finish and plaster down to the concrete base.

If the walls are uneven, you must first plaster them or level them with plasterboard. If it is a floor, a screed or self-leveling floor is made. This will not only increase ease of use and reduce glue consumption, but will also have a good effect on the quality of the cladding: it will be smooth and durable, and the chance of cracks and tiles coming off will be reduced. Don't rely on a layer of glue to hide all the imperfections.
Detailed video on cement plaster walls:

If an electric heated floor is planned on the floor, it is highly advisable to drown it in the screed first.

During plastering, you need not only to level the base, but also to achieve 90-degree angles.

The base and plaster are carefully coated with a deep penetration primer.

In wet areas The floor is waterproofed. Waterproofing of walls is done only in places in direct contact with water (for example, shower walls).

You need to think in advance where there may be narrow, unsightly trims and try to reduce them to a minimum by shifting the layout. You also need to decide on the position of the decor, borders, and the combination of dark and light backgrounds. The decor cannot be cut at all, and borders can only be shortened. Best to draw visual diagram each wall with tile layout. There are many nuances in this issue that have been written about.

Often tiles, even in the same package, can differ by several millimeters (especially domestic ones). This can cause a lot of inconvenience when working - the seams will not meet. Therefore, before starting installation, the tiles need to be sorted by size into 2-3 groups.

Tools

Directly for laying tiles you need to have the following tools (not counting preparation and removal of old finish):

• Level - to check the evenness of the base and cladding during installation. It is best to have a long (allows you to check the evenness of the entire row) and short (to determine the evenness of two adjacent tiles) bubble level, as well as laser level. If you don’t have a level, you can replace it by purchasing a water level and a plumb line to mark horizontal and vertical lines, respectively.
• A hammer drill or drill with a mixer attachment - for stirring dry mixtures.
• Comb - for applying glue. The dimensions of the comb teeth depend on the size of the tiles and are indicated on the packaging with the adhesive.
• 10-20 liter container for mixing glue.
• to maintain uniform gaps. Achieve good result will help additional use.
• Tool for cutting tiles. It’s more convenient to work with, but if you don’t have one, you can cut the tiles with a glass cutter or other available tool.
• Rubber spatula - for filling joints with grout.

It is advisable to have 2 bubble level(long and short) to control the laying plane If not laser level- exact horizontal can be obtained with water; exact vertical level is determined by plumb line; cement-based adhesive; capacity: 10 liters
Hammer with homemade nozzle for stirring dry mixtures Comb with 10 mm teeth Plastic crosses 2 mm Manual tile cutter Rubber spatula

In addition to this, you also need to buy the materials themselves - glue and cement-based grout. Silicone grout sealant is used to fill expansion joints, for example, between tiles and a bathtub.

Mixing the glue

Mixing the solution is as easy as shelling pears: pour about a liter of water into a container and start pouring the dry mixture into it until a mound forms. Mix everything into a homogeneous solution without lumps, and in the process you will see whether you need to add more water or mixture.

The consistency should allow you to conveniently apply the glue so that it spreads effortlessly over the surface, but also does not drip off the comb.

After this, you will need to wait 5-10 minutes and mix the solution again before starting work.

You don't need to use a lot of glue, especially on the first pass, since it takes the most time.

Laying tiles

Each master has his own styling technique, I will tell you how I do it.

Before gluing the tile, I lubricate its back side and base. thin layer peel-off glue to increase adhesion. Only after this do I apply a layer of glue about 1 cm thick to the tile and go over it with a comb. During installation floor tiles It is more convenient to apply a comb layer of glue to the floor.

To prevent excess from coming out from under the tiles, I try to apply the glue with a slight indentation from the edge. In any case, you need to be careful and remove the excess around the edges in a timely manner, otherwise you will be exhausted later in cleaning the seams from the frozen glue.

This technique is good because it uses thin glue, and for good fixation it is not necessary to hit each tile with a mallet; it will be enough to simply press it to the desired level. For reliable fastening you need to press down the tile approximately half the thickness of the strips from the comb.

After applying the glue to the surface, you have no more than 10-15 minutes to glue the tiles to it. After this there will be another 15-20 minutes when you can adjust its position. We check the evenness with a level; if it fails too much, we tear it off and apply a thicker layer of glue. We also make sure that the corners meet.

Laying ceramic tiles on the walls is done in horizontal rows, starting from the bottom. Depending on the conditions and the chosen layout, the first tile can start either from the edge or in the center of the wall. Laying on the floor is done starting from the corner farthest to the exit.

Particular attention should be paid to places that will come into contact with deformable surfaces. For example, cast iron bath may “walk” a little or change its size depending on the temperature. This may not be noticeable to the eye, but it will be enough to tear the tiles off the wall. To prevent this from happening, you need to leave a gap of at least 2 mm between the tiles and the bathtub, which is filled with elastic sealant.

It can be matched to the color of the main grout. The width of the seams between directly affects how the tiling will look. If you have high-quality, even tiles, you can make thin gaps of 1-2 mm. There are crosses for sale different thicknesses

, from 1 to 10 mm.

Tile cutting

The amount of defects during cutting will greatly depend on the availability and quality of the tool.

Straight lines can be easily cut using a manual tile cutter. If it is not there and the tile is quite soft, you can cut it off with any sharp object (glass cutter, nail, drill). You need to make an even scratch, and then divide the tile into 2 parts by pressing evenly on the corner of the table.

Small pieces or curved cuts can be made using a grinder with a diamond blade.

Sawing the tiles at 45 degrees Separately, it is worth talking about external corners. Now you can buy special ones in stores plastic corners (layouts), which are simply put on adjacent tiles. Professionals do not use them, except in traumatic areas where you can slip. Instead, the corner tiles are filed at 45 degrees to create a beautiful joint. This can be done with the same grinder or electric tile cutter

You may also need to make a hole in the tile. Small holes are made using a tile drill, and large ones are cut with special drill attachments - crowns or ballerina drills. Square holes can be cut with a grinder.

Grouting joints

Majority adhesive solutions allow you to walk on the tiles 12-24 hours after installation. But there is also quick-hardening glue, it will be ready in 4 hours.

We remove the plastic crosses, clean the seams from the mortar and start grouting.

This step is simple: mix the grout mixture with water and apply it in a cross-shaped motion inside the seams using rubber spatula. Then we form a seam and remove the excess with a clean rag. If the facing area is large, then it will be more convenient to work with a rubber float.

Sometimes you come across very embossed decor that is dangerous to cover up - it’s easier to seal it in advance.

In damp rooms, seams can additionally be protected with special impregnation.

Conclusion

You could write a whole book about how to lay tiles with your own hands - after all, there are many nuances in this matter, which require years of experience to master. In this article I only covered the basics, so if you have any questions, welcome to the comments.

Range construction stores pleases with constantly emerging new products designed to fulfill modern finishes housing. But be that as it may, ceramic tiles do not lose their popularity at all, and remain one of the most popular materials for cladding floors and walls in rooms with specific operating conditions - with high humidity, with direct contact of water on the surface, with a pronounced abrasive load, with the need for frequent wet cleaning using detergents. According to such criteria, this includes bathrooms, toilets and kitchens, hallways and corridors, balconies and loggias, entrance groups and some utility rooms.

In a word, in any house or apartment there will definitely be such a finish. wide application. That’s why the question is so relevant: how difficult is it to lay ceramic tiles with your own hands, is it worth inviting a professional, or is it completely possible to get by? on our own? We cannot agree with the opinion of the authors of individual articles who claim that tiling is a very simple task. Such finishing requires strict adherence to technology, knowledge of many nuances, a certain skill and increased accuracy. However, it doesn’t seem impossible either - many homeowners have successfully completed Finishing work on one's own. We hope that this article will help the portal visitor understand the basics of ceramic tile laying technology, carefully assess their capabilities and make the right decision.