Installation of suspended plastic ceiling. Installation instructions for plastic ceiling panels. Preparing the base ceiling

From time to time it becomes necessary to repair the ceilings in an apartment. An inexpensive and practical option is PVC panels for the ceiling. This type of design is ideal for rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, hallway). Installation is quite simple and can be easily carried out even by someone far from construction, if they have the right tools.

The costs of installing a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels with your own hands, compared to other types of ceiling surface finishing, are significantly lower. The process of finishing the ceiling with PVC panels includes several stages, some of which can be divided into several more points. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Preparatory stage

It can be roughly divided into three points:

Purchasing the necessary materials

The selection of panels is a rather serious process, since there are many types of these products and they all differ in size, design, and texture. When choosing, you should pay special attention to the width of the product. For small rooms, panels with a width of no more than 250 mm are suitable; for large rooms, it is advisable to choose options with a width of more than 250 mm.

For advice, it is better to contact the sellers of a specialized store; as a rule, they are well trained and can provide high-quality advice on the choice of materials for mounting a ceiling made of PVC panels.

The bars must have a cross-section of at least 30*30 mm.

As a ceiling plinth in the construction of a PVC ceiling, you can use plastic, specially made for this purpose, which has a groove for installing panels into it. It is worth taking skirting boards with a small margin of about 1 m more than the perimeter of the ceiling, because during the installation process it will have to be cut at an angle and a mistake may be made.

If you plan to make a metal frame, you will need to purchase:

Tool

When working with PVC ceilings you will need:

• Roulette
• Pencil or thin marker
• Construction level
• Construction corner
• Lace
• Metal scissors
• Miter box
• Electric jigsaw or wood saw
• Grinder with a disc no more than 2 mm.
• Impact drill or hammer drill with drilling function (for concrete ceiling)
• Screwdriver
• Extension

Tip: For ease of use, the extension cord should have several sockets, this will allow you not to switch the power tool during operation.

Preparing the surface for installation

For installation, it is necessary to free the ceiling from anything that could interfere with its implementation. Remove old lamps and chandeliers. It is worth determining in advance where the electrical wires pass and marking these places with a marker or pencil. Clean the surface from dirt and dust.

Frame making

The frame can be made of wooden blocks or metal profiles 60*27 mm. For wet rooms, it is advisable to use a metal structure, since it is less susceptible to corrosion under the influence of moisture. Also, the metal frame installation system is ideal for leveling the ceiling, because it uses hangers that allow the frame to be lowered by 3 - 4 cm.

It is advisable to use wooden blocks in a dry room and with a fairly even rough ceiling. A combination of these two methods is also possible; for this, fastening with metal hangers is used in a system of wooden blocks. The method is impractical, because you have to use bars with a cross-section of at least 5*5 cm and perfectly flat.

Metal carcass

The metal profile frame must be installed at a distance of no more than 4 cm from the rough ceiling.

It is convenient to hide the wiring in the resulting gap.

First, a starting profile 27*28 is attached to the wall along the perimeter of the entire ceiling, at a distance of 3 - 4 cm, so that later the main profile 60*27 can be inserted into it. Depending on the material of the walls, fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or dowels - nails. When installing on a dowel - nails, you will need to drill a hole in the profile and in the wall and, pressing tightly, hammer the dowel into the nail.

Important: Dowel - nails used to install the starting profile must have a cylindrical skirt. Only in this case is it possible to use through-mounting technology.

The starting profile is mounted strictly level, starting from any corner of the room and moving along the entire perimeter. If the profile is installed accurately, the starting and ending points should converge and thereby close the perimeter.

The next stage is the placement of metal hangers. To do this, you need to mark the places where the main profiles will pass. It is convenient to use a cord for marking. The main profile is attached at a distance of 40 - 60 cm from each other, strictly parallel. Suspensions should be installed at a distance of 80 cm from each other. The hangers are mounted using self-tapping screws or dowels - nails in the holes provided for this purpose, and are immediately bent to facilitate installation of the main profile in them.

The last stage is installing the main profile. To do this, the profile is cut to the required length with a gap of 5 mm on each side, inserted into the starting profile and secured with self-tapping screws with a press washer to the hangers. The level controls its horizontal position, as well as its strictly rectilinear position.

Advice: When attaching the starting profile, do not neglect its horizontal position, since in the future this will lead to incorrect positioning of the main profile and, as a result, you will have to start the installation again from the very beginning.

Frame made of wooden blocks

It is installed by analogy with metal, with the difference that the bars are fastened using the method of through installation without the use of hangers. To level the plane, it is permissible to place wood chips under the bars. First of all, the outer bars are installed, then the middle is filled at a distance of 40 - 60 cm from each other.

Panel installation

First of all, the ceiling plinths are measured and sawed at an angle of 45 degrees. Their fastening can be carried out using 13 mm PSh self-tapping screws or using liquid nails. Skirting boards are installed around the entire perimeter in such a way that subsequently mounted panels fit exactly into their groove.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling begins with determining the length of the workpiece. To do this, measure the distance from one wall to another, then subtract 2 cm from this distance and draw a strictly perpendicular line on the panel using a pencil and a construction corner.

Then they cut it using a grinder. Next, install the first panel into the grooves of the ceiling plinth and push it all the way to the wall. As a result, it should turn out that the first panel fits into the grooves of the ceiling plinth on three sides. Only after this can the panel be attached to the bars or profile.

Tip: There are two ways to attach PVC panels to the ceiling when making a wooden frame. The first is with self-tapping screws and a press washer, the second is with a stapler and with staples. Both methods are equally effective, but fastening with a stapler is more convenient and faster.

Subsequent panels are cut to size and installed so that the ends are in the grooves of the baseboards and each subsequent panel fits into the lock of the previous one. The last panel must be cut to length and then, having measured the required distance, cut to width and then installed.

You can learn more about the installation process by watching a video description of the process.

A ceiling made of plastic ceiling panels is one of the options for suspended ceilings. Such ceilings are usually installed in bathrooms, corridors and kitchens.

A room decorated with a plastic ceiling does not look very cozy. Installation of plastic ceiling panels in the bedroom is undesirable. No matter how manufacturers claim that the material is absolutely harmless, finishing ceilings with plastic in rooms where you stay for a long time is not the best option. In addition, if the length of the room is more than 3 meters, you will have to join the panels, and this looks ugly.

How to choose the necessary materials

Selection of plastic panels for the ceiling

Light-colored panels are usually used to decorate ceilings.

There are panels on sale with colors that imitate a slatted ceiling. In terms of cost, plastic ceiling panels are much cheaper than aluminum slats for finishing the ceiling, and by appearance it is sometimes difficult to distinguish a plastic ceiling from an aluminum slatted one.

Such panels have standard dimensions - width 240 mm, length 3000 mm.

The photo shows plastic panels imitating a slatted ceiling.

The advantages of finishing the ceiling with plastic panels include speed of installation. The ceiling does not need to be leveled with plaster mixtures. The ability to insert spotlights into the suspended ceiling allows you to create cozy lighting in the room. The price of plastic ceiling panels is affordable for economy class renovations.

Calculation of materials

You will need:

• panels
• aluminum profile
• dowels
• galvanized self-tapping screws with press washer
• ceiling plinth
• electrical cable

Standard panels are 24 cm wide and 2.7 m or 3 m long. Divide the width of the room by the width of the panel. When planning the finishing of ceilings in two rooms, calculate how best to mount the panels so that the scraps can be used in the toilet or on the balcony.

Buy panels designed specifically for ceilings. Wall panels are stronger and heavier in weight. Strength is not required for ceiling panels, but excess weight will create unnecessary stress on the ceiling frame.

To install the panels you will need an aluminum profile. It is possible to mount plastic ceiling panels on a wooden beam sheathing, but in wet rooms it is better to use a profile. Over time, the timber becomes deformed due to humidity and the panels may warp.

A U-shaped guide profile with a cross section of 27-28 mm is mounted around the perimeter of the room. It is marked PN, or marked PNP - ceiling guide profile.

To figure out which profile serves what purpose, look at the photo. The number of guide profiles is easy to calculate. The profile is produced in a length of 3 m. Divide the perimeter of the room by 3 and round to the nearest whole number.

To form the frame you will need a ceiling profile - PP. This profile is installed perpendicular to the panels every 60 cm. Based on the width of the room, you can calculate how many ceiling profiles you will need.

To attach the ceiling profile, hangers are needed.

The hangers are attached at a distance from the wall - 30 cm, then - after 60 cm. Based on the length of the profile, calculate how many hangers are required for each profile.

Dowels are used to attach the guide profile to the wall and hangers to the ceiling. The profile is attached to dowels in the corners and then every 20-30 cm. For each suspension, at least two dowels are required. Do not try to count the exact number of dowel nails. Take it with a reserve - dowels and nails will always be useful for subsequent repairs, so it’s not a big deal if two or three dozen are left over.

To attach the panels to the frame and connect the guide and ceiling profiles, you will need galvanized self-tapping screws - a 4.2x16mm press washer. The price of self-tapping screws is small - buy 150-200 pieces.

Ceiling plinth for plastic panels is used in two types - PVC plinth or regular polyurethane. The PVC skirting board is installed before the installation of the panels begins. If the walls in the room are uneven, it is better to cover the joint between the wall and the suspended ceiling with a polyurethane plinth.

The PVC skirting board covers the gap between the wall and the ceiling, and at the same time serves for the installation of plastic panels.

The ceiling plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room. The amount of plinth can be easily calculated by dividing the perimeter of the room by the length of the plinth and rounding the resulting value.

Purchase the required number of lamps and the electrical cable to connect them.

When installing panels on a wooden sheathing, you will need timber, slats and brackets to secure the panels.

How to properly install plastic ceiling panels

Tools

• level
• pencil or marker
• roulette
• hammer drill
• metal scissors
• screwdriver
• hacksaw or jigsaw
• drill with crown
• construction or stationery knife

Operating procedure

Using a water level, mark a horizontal line around the perimeter of the room. You can use a regular building level, but a hydraulic level gives fewer errors. Make sure that there are no air bubbles in the connecting hose. The easiest way to make marks is with a laser level, but a laser level is an expensive tool and not every home craftsman has one in stock.

Secure the guide profile to the marks. The profile is attached to dowels at a distance of 30-50 cm. Cut the profile to length. The profile can be cut with a grinder, but it can be cut quite well with metal scissors. It might be faster with a grinder, but it’s easier with scissors.

Use a hammer drill with a concrete drill to make holes in the wall. Secure the profile with dowels.

Attach hangers for the ceiling profile. Suspensions are necessary for reliable fastening of the frame to the ceiling and for adjusting the level at which the profile will be mounted.

Attach the PVC skirting board to the guide profile.

Install the ceiling profile to which you will attach the panels. The PP profile is attached to the hangers and to the PN profile with self-tapping screws and a press washer. The ceiling profile is attached perpendicular to the direction of the plastic panels.

When using PVC plinth, secure the plinth with self-tapping screws to the guide profile around the perimeter of the room. At the corners, the plinth is cut at an angle of 45°.

Route out the electrical cable for installing the lamps.

Cut the panels to length. The panel is cut with a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.

Place the edge of the panel into the groove of the baseboard. Secure the panel shelf with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile. The next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one and secured with self-tapping screws in the same way as the first. The photo shows the installation of panels without PVC plinth; a hole for a lamp is cut along the edge of the panel.

Holes for lamps are cut before installing the panel using a drill with a crown or a knife.

When installing the last panel, cut it to width.

Install and connect the lamps. The lamps are connected in parallel.

Using liquid nails, glue the polyurethane baseboard if you did not use PVC baseboard.

When installing panels on a wooden sheathing, the principle of operation is the same. The panel is attached to a block or slats using staples.

Answers to frequently asked questions

How to mark the flow level - correctly or beautifully?

When installing plastic ceiling panels, it is important to install the suspended ceiling evenly along the entire plane. It happens that the tiles that line the walls are placed incorrectly. It turns out that if the ceiling is mounted strictly according to the level, errors in laying the tiles will become noticeable. It is permissible to mount the ceiling parallel to the last seam of the tile. It won’t warp too much, but it won’t be visually noticeable that the tiles are not laid quite level.

How to secure the last panel?

The last panel is not fastened with self-tapping screws; it is inserted into the groove of the previous panel and into the groove of the PVC skirting board or guide profile. Due to its light weight, the panel is firmly held in its position.

How to install polyurethane ceiling plinth?

Polyurethane or foam ceiling plinth is glued with liquid nails. The corners are cut according to the miter box. If a gap forms between the wall and the baseboard, it is sealed with acrylic sealant.

Video instructions for installing a plastic ceiling.

When the issue of repair budget is acute, compromises have to be sought. Most often, it is ceiling work that falls under the reduction of waste on materials and wages of workers. If you can't afford it, consider making the ceiling out of plastic.

Scheme 1 - Installation of a suspended ceiling. Scheme of work

Installing plastic on the ceiling: advantages

Plastic is mainly chosen for finishing non-residential premises as a construction for a stylistically neutral ceiling surface.

In apartments and country houses, plastic is the favorite material for finishing ceilings in bathrooms, and less often in kitchens.

The material is not afraid of moisture and frequent changes in temperature; if the room is well ventilated, it does not grow mold, and does not take up much ceiling height. The plastic is easy to assemble and, if necessary, disassemble. Plus: it is possible to sectionally replace damaged ceiling coverings , which undoubtedly reduces the cost of secondary repairs.

However, one of the main attractive advantages of ceilings made of plastic lining is their low cost.

Judge for yourself: a ceiling made of plastic panels costs on average $3.5-5/m² (the price includes the purchase of materials and assembly of the ceiling), the cost per square meter of material is from $1.7.

At the same time, the cost of a gypsum plasterboard sheet for finishing ceilings is $7.5-8.2 (approximately 3 m²), to install a plasterboard ceiling you will have to pay another $4/m², and also buy an additional adhesive mixture and profiles (when installing plasterboard sheets on frame), reinforcing mesh and putty for processing sheet joints. It turns out there is a significant difference: 3.5-5 $/m² when finishing with plastic and almost 9 $/m² when finishing with plasterboard on a frame.

Photo 1 - Installation of ceiling plinth

Installation of plastic ceiling

The ceiling is made of plastic panels, essentially a mixture of slatted ceiling and plasterboard. From the latter, in the installation of plastic, a system of organizing the frame is used, plus the finishing process is extremely similar to the installation of a lath.

Stages of installing plastic on the ceiling:

• installation of guide profiles;
• installation of hangers;
• installation of a ceiling profile;
• installation of plastic panels;
• installation of ceiling plinth.

Installation of guide profiles

1. Step back 7-10 cm from the ceiling and secure the guide profile around the perimeter.

IMPORTANT! A gap of up to 10 cm is needed in order to subsequently run electrical wires under the plastic ceiling and install recessed lamps.

2. Use a laser level to take accurate measurements.

3. If you are installing a ceiling made of plastic lining in rooms where the walls are decorated with ceramic tiles, installation of the guide profile can be somewhat complicated: you cannot drill mounting holes in the tiles directly through the guide rails - you can chip the ceramics. In this case, the tile is drilled with a special drill according to the markings, and only then the profile is fixed into the prepared holes.

4. If you doubt the reliability of the fastening and that the guides will support the weight of the entire mounted structure, use dowels and nails with a length of at least 60 mm.

5. The step at which the profile is attached to the ceiling must be at least 50 cm.

IMPORTANT! When using dowel nails on tiles, they should not be driven in, but rather wrapped.

Photo 2 - Ceiling paneling along the frame

Installation of suspensions and ceiling profiles

The ceiling profile must be installed perpendicular to the location of the plastic lining panels.

1. The profile is cut to the required length and inserted into the guide profile.

2. Mark the future mounting of the suspensions.

IMPORTANT! Please note: the profile should not pass through the installation points of recessed luminaires! Also, the guide and ceiling profiles should not be fastened with self-tapping screws, because With such fastenings, the baseboard for the ceiling will not be level.

3. Hangers can also be mounted using dowel nails.

IMPORTANT! If a dowel nail gets into the cavity of the ceiling, the fasteners may not hold well. This problem can be solved by using special anchors for a suspended ceiling (or using a dowel and a self-tapping screw if you don’t have an anchor at hand).

4. The components of the ceiling profile should be located at a distance of no more than 30-40 cm from each other. Even without installing transverse guides, you can assemble such a frame with your own hands, making it rigid and durable.

Photo 3 - Plastic ceiling in a country house

Fitting plastic panels and installing ceiling plinths

Before installing plastic slats or panels, you need to run all the necessary communications along the frame of the overhead flow. After installing the plastic, you can also make wiring or install a lamp. The panel plastic ceiling is not a seamless fabric ceiling; by dismantling some of the panels you will have the opportunity to correct the shortcomings. However, this is extra work.

1. A ceiling plinth is installed on three of the four walls: on one of the walls the plinth is placed parallel to the panels, on the other two - perpendicular.

2. Plastic panels of the first row are cut to the required size and inserted into the baseboard. The opposite side of this panel must be secured with self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile.

3. The next panel after the first is mounted in an open groove, also securing the opposite edge with self-tapping screws to the profile.

4. The work is completed by attaching the ceiling plinth to the fourth wall.

This way you can mount not only a simple ceiling, but also a two-level one. The difference in work will only be in the complexity of constructing the frame.

1. Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is best done by two people. Another pair of hands in this matter will never be superfluous.

2. The plinth for fastening plastic panels must be special - installation, and not decorative. Such a plinth must have grooves for installing panels.

3. The plinth is secured to the perimeter guides with self-tapping screws. However, to complete the installation, it is attached to the last wall with liquid nails

Photo 4 - Plastic slatted ceiling in the bathroom

The solution is not only for renovations in the toilet/balcony, but also in the bedroom. True, these ceilings should look different: in the first case, plastic slats would be appropriate, and in the second, plastic plates. The photo below shows examples of how plastic suspended ceilings can be used in different rooms of the apartment.

If you are going to sheathe the ceiling surface with plastic, remember: the main thing for the ceilings of living rooms is not to reduce the width of the panels.

To prevent the room from looking cheap, it is better to choose panels made of plastic with a width of 40-60 cm. Most people associate white plastic with the decoration of sanitary premises. But embossed panels painted to match, say, different types of wood can hide the cost of ceiling repairs. These look no worse than painting or wallpapering the ceiling.

DIY plastic ceiling: VIDEO

Plastic panels for ceilings: prices

How much a particular type of plastic panel costs depends on the technical parameters of the panel: the size and thickness of the section.

A standard lining (slat) is about 10 cm wide and 9 mm thick. The cost is 2.1 $/m².

Panels imitating natural materials or painted in a certain color are more expensive: for example, the “Lux” panel in chocolate color with parameters 0.1 m/6 m/8 mm costs about $4/m², the “Ash” panel with parameters 0. 25 m/6 m/8 mm costs $4.5/m².

There are also better-looking plastic ceilings on sale. The price for this starts from 5-5.5 $/m². We are talking about plastic lacquered oak paneling (0.25 m/6 m/9 mm) and mirror plastic panels (0.25 m/6 m/4 mm).

To decorate and improve the walls and ceilings of bathrooms and kitchens, mainly tiles, paint, whitewash, and washable wallpaper were used. Or the simultaneous use of two or three of the above coatings was proposed.

But for about 15 years, plastic plates made of polyvinyl chloride have been used for these purposes, which have become very popular. Plastic plates have many positive qualities:

1. Relatively easy installation that even a non-professional can do alone. The main thing is to be able to handle conventional and power tools well.
2. Fast installation. Ceiling cladding can be completed in a few hours.
3. Color solution. Nowadays you can find slabs of classic and completely unimaginable colors on sale. This will help you find what you were aiming for.
4. External finishing of slabs. The arsenal of plastic coatings is varied. There are different wood colors and mirror finishes. The panels are matte, shiny, glossy.
5. Relatively inexpensive when compared with conventional types of coating (for example, tiles).
6. Easy to process. Cut with a knife or scissors.
7. Helps reliably disguise wiring, pipes or surface irregularities.

Characteristics of PVC plates

1. Width: 25-50 cm.
2. Thickness: 5-10 mm.
3. Length: 2.7-3.0 m or 6 m.

Polyvinyl chloride as a covering material:

• strong enough - it is difficult to tear it apart with your hands;
• very plastic; not afraid of water;
• does not darken in the sun;
• does not conduct sound;
• environmentally friendly;
• has some thermal insulation due to air channels inside;
• some species can withstand temperatures of 70-80 degrees;
• easy to clean;
• has no smell.

Newfangled LED lamps can be directly mounted on PVC panels.

Negative qualities include the fragility and flammability of the material.

If it is bent too much, it will break, and if there is an accidental impact, a dent may appear on it.

Selecting panels and calculating the amount of material

For a room with a height of 2.70 m and above, you can choose panels of any color, but it is better to choose pastel, neutral colors. For a low room you need to take light colors or mirror slabs. They give a visual effect of increasing volume.

Advice: Do not confuse ceiling and wall panels.

This is a mistake made by many individuals who carry out repairs themselves. It's better to ask the seller. As a last resort, it is useful to know that ceiling tiles weigh less than wall tiles.

• Calculation of PVC plates, crossbars and plinths

It is easy to calculate the number of panels. It is enough to divide the area of ​​the entire ceiling of the room being repaired (the product of the length of the room by its width) by the area of ​​one PVC slab. Then we add another 15-20% necessary to seal various types of gaps.

For example, let's say you are renovating a bathroom. A riser is installed in it, and a horizontal pipe runs under the ceiling. For this option, which is not uncommon in old buildings, a special calculation is required and 15-20% of the excess will come in handy.

Advice: Place the panels parallel to the front door.

Moreover, if you start installation from the far wall, then each subsequent slab will hide the seam, which will allow you to get the effect of an almost seamless coating.

To calculate the length of the crossbars (metal profiles or wooden slats), it is necessary to draw a plan diagram of the ceiling, reduced proportionally.

The main metal profiles (or slats) should be positioned perpendicular to the entrance door. A gap of 50-60 cm should be maintained between them. Based on the drawing, we determine the number of crossbars, taking into account 4 pieces of rigid profiles fixed around the perimeter of the room.

Ceiling plinth is much easier to calculate. We measure the perimeter with a tape measure and buy the required quantity, taking into account the length of one strip of plinth - 3 m.

If the ceiling needs to be lowered, then the number of U-shaped mounting plates must also be calculated.

For example:

The room measures 2.6 x 2.4 m and the door is on the long side.

You have chosen slabs 3.0x0.3 m.

To calculate this option, you don’t have to divide the area of ​​the slabs and ceiling, because the length of the slab covers the length of the room. You just need to calculate how many PVC strips will fit in the width of the room.

2.4 / 0.3 = 8 stripes.

A room drawing might look like this:

Option 1 – strengthening the profiles directly on the ceiling of the room;

Option 2 – the crossbars are secured to U-shaped fasteners (depicted as squares).

From the first picture it can be seen that there are only 8 profiles (including 4 along the perimeter).

To strengthen them on the ceiling and walls you will need 16 dowels (two for each). Self-tapping screws are calculated based on the number of strips and profiles. PVC panels are secured to each crossbar with two self-tapping screws.

We got 8 stripes, 4 crossbars. The side ones can be ignored. The panels are simply inserted into a special groove near the wall. We calculate:

8x4x2 = 64 screws + 36 for reserve (for good measure) = 100 pieces.

In the second picture, 2 dowels are needed for each U-shaped fastening and for the side profiles on the walls

For fastenings: 8x2 = 16.

On the sides: 4x2 = 8.

Total - 24 dowels.

To strengthen the strips, it is necessary, as in the first option, 64 self-tapping screws. But besides this, you need 16 more screws to secure the profiles to the U-shaped plates - two for each.

Panels and types of plastic profiles

The strips themselves are hollow and divided into sections. This is why they weigh so little. Vertical stiffening ribs add strength to PVC sheets.

But the panels can only be fixed on a plane. When you reach the wall, if no measures are taken, a gap will remain. To eliminate this problem, there are PVC profiles. They come in different types, but the most popular and used options for plastic profiles are:

1. Starting. Attached to walls (perimeter) to seal the ends of the coating.
2. F-profile. Seals ends at protruding corners. For example, in some combined bathrooms, the toilet is separated from the bathtub by a wall. This profile will close the corners when moving from one part of such a bathroom to another.
3. N – profile. Serves for joining two panels (extension).
4. Plastic outer corner. It is used to eliminate cracks, both on internal and external corners.
5. Ceiling plinth. Used for decoration and for sealing ends, just like the starter.
6. Universal PVC corner. To eliminate cracks in corners. It's just glued on.

Preparation for installation and marking

First you need to clean the surface of the old ceiling from plaster and chips. After all, crumbling elements, such as whitewash or putty, can damage the new surface or add pressure to the slabs. It is necessary to carefully prime the old ceiling.

When lowering the ceiling, you need to take into account the standard sizes of the lighting fixtures used, the presence of various types of communications (pipes), projections (beams), hidden wiring or irregularities. Only after taking these values ​​into account is the lowest point of the ceiling determined. From there they begin marking the planes and frame.

1. We attach a ruler to the found point, lower it to the required distance and put a mark.
2. We draw a working line on the walls (along the perimeter, starting from the mark), indicating the level of the frame of the plastic surface. This operation is performed with twine (cord) painted with colored chalk. You can use a homemade water level or
3. purchased - laser.

1. Next, we mark the locations of the support guides located on the walls. They should be mounted on walls perpendicular to the front door. Then, when installing PVC strips, the seams will not be noticeable.
2. Then we draw lines (retreating by 40-60 cm) for the remaining profiles or, if the ceiling level is to be significantly lowered, for the U-shaped elements.

After this, we move on to constructing the frame and strengthening the panels.

We install a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

We start by securing the support guides. We install one profile along the drawn line and drill the wall through it in two or three places, preparing holes for dowels.

To connect lamps (if there are several of them), it is desirable that the profiles are 1-1.5 cm away from the ceiling; in extreme cases, it is necessary to cut holes in them.

Having secured all four support guides to the walls, we proceed to installing the auxiliary profiles. If the ceiling is to be lowered, then U-shaped ceiling fasteners must be installed on its surface.

They are installed on one or two dowels or on anchors with wedges (depending on the design) every 50-80 cm and bent slightly from the ceiling. You cannot bend them completely - they will interfere with the installation of profiles.

We insert the additional profile at a certain angle with one end into the main guide. Then we insert the other end into the profile opposite, align it along the drawn line or along the U-shaped plates and screw it with self-tapping screws, first to the wall guides, and then to the fasteners on the ceiling.

Jumpers can either not be installed at all or mounted only in places where heavy objects are secured (chandeliers, etc.).

Having thus strengthened all the metal profiles, the laying of wires (lighting and power cables) is carried out. For reliable insulation and fire safety, they are pulled through a rubber or PVC hose. At the attachment points of future lighting elements, hinges (15 cm) are lowered.

Installation of slabs

Advice: Before installation work, remove the film, if any, from the PVC elements, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with the finished ceiling.

Let's get down to the main part of the work. The strips must first be cut to an amount equal to the length of the room minus 5-10 mm. This is necessary to ensure easy and quick installation. The installation process itself goes like this:

1. Either a U-shaped profile or a ceiling plinth with the same groove is screwed to the main guides with self-tapping screws. You can attach a universal PVC corner or a starter profile to the side walls.
2. A strip of polyvinyl chloride is inserted into a U-shaped PVC element. Many people cut off the latch, thinking that it will not fit tightly into the PVC profile. But this is a misconception.
3. Strengthen the other side of the first PVC plate with self-tapping screws with an enlarged head or using special homemade fasteners cut from tin. These fasteners hold the strip with their tongue, which has a clearly larger area than the head of any screw and will not interfere with the next strip.

They are fixed as follows:

• insert the tongue into the groove of the PVC strip;
• press the element together with the panel against the guide;
• secure.

Advice: When pressing, it makes sense to pre-drill the wings of the homemade element and the guide with a thin (2-2.5 mm) drill. Then the screw will screw in easily.

If you used wooden slats for the sheathing, then the wings of a homemade fastener are screwed to both sides. If you have plasterboard profiles, then you can either screw the fasteners to the sidewalls or simply bend the protruding parts of the wings and press them tightly against the plane of the sides of the guide with pliers.

The mating part of the second strip is inserted (along its length) into the open groove of the first strip. Moreover, first insert the corners of the second strip, so that one of them fits into the lock of the first plate, and the second into the PVC side profile. Next, with light pressure, insert the entire strip into the groove, so that its second end fits into the PVC element (starter or corner) located on the opposite side wall.

You must act carefully, otherwise you risk breaking off part of the lock clamped by screws or fasteners.

If the strips are closed unevenly, then you should insert a thin block, a wooden ruler or a piece of the mating part of the same PVC panel into the locking groove of the last strip. Moving this part along the groove, carefully tap the strip with a hammer or wooden block until it stops.

If, according to the plan, a lamp (spot) is supposed to be fixed on the strip, then a hole for it can be cut with any cutting tool immediately after installation. You just need to cut carefully so as not to overdo it. Next, the wires are brought out into the hole and the lamps are connected, although this can be done later.

You can also perform this operation on the floor before installation. First, attach the panel to the ceiling, mark the holes, lower it to the floor, cut it, and then secure it. But this takes up extra time.

• Installation of the last PVC panel

This is worth talking about specifically. In the manner described above, all longitudinal elements except the last one are strengthened.

Some inexperienced craftsmen suggest gluing it with liquid nails to make installation easier. But “the game is not worth the candle.” To do this, you need to trim the last fragment of the ceiling very evenly. But due to the design of the panel, this is very difficult to do.

When cutting using a ruler or slat, even with light pressure, the plastic bends and the knife wiggles to the sides. It is very difficult to obtain a high-quality cut. Therefore, you need to cut from the P-profile side. But in this case there is a noticeable seam between the panels. After all, nearby there are incoherent lock and mate parts.

Therefore, it is better to perform installation in the usual way. Let's talk about him specifically. This process is confusing to many. After all, you need to simultaneously insert the strip into four grooves:

• penultimate panel lock;
• gap in the U-shaped profile;
• two grooves on the side walls.

Oddly enough, but there are no difficulties. First you need to prepare the PVC element for installation. It is necessary to set the width of the future ceiling fragment. This can be done with a ruler, which is inserted into the U-shaped profile on the wall perpendicular to it and the divisions are counted to the penultimate strip. This will be the width of the last fragment.

Some people will ask a reasonable question that we did not take into account the width of the groove (5 mm) of the penultimate PVC element, and the last fragment of our ceiling will dangle. But this is precisely the “trick”, especially since you have done this process one or more times at home when you inserted glass into a bookshelf or sideboard.

The depth of the U-shaped profile on the wall is 1 cm, and the depth of the lock is 5 mm. Therefore, if you insert the last fragment into the profile and then pull it out, snapping it into the lock, then the entire structure will be assembled properly.

A second question arises. What about the side grooves? The answer is simple. This is why we cut the strips. It is necessary to slightly bend the last strip in an arc and insert it into one of the side grooves until it stops. Then gradually push it along its entire length into the U-profile.

1. Attach construction tape to the strip in two places. By pulling it you can pull out the panel and lock it in the lock. Just try to pull it parallel to the surface of the ceiling, otherwise the tape will simply break off.

1. Before installing the last fragment, wrap two thin strips of thick material over the edge. After sliding the panel into the P-element, pull the ribbons. The friction force and tight connection will not allow them to jump out immediately, and the strip will move forward. When it snaps into place, use a screwdriver or knife to slightly bend the edge of the U-profile and the tape will come out. As a last resort, just cut it off.

At the end of the work, install skirting boards or other decorative and hiding elements. Clean the ceiling from adhering chips, dirt, and fingerprints. Connect and insert the lamps into the holes if you did not do this during installation. This completes the installation of the ceiling made of PVC panels.

Until recently, we couldn’t even imagine what we could do with the ceiling other than whitewash it or cover it with water-based emulsion. If you wanted something “fun”, they covered it with wallpaper. With the advent of new building materials in our lives, completely new technologies for ceiling finishing began to emerge. The arsenal of such design solutions includes the installation of suspended, suspended, mineral, glass, mirror, stained glass, plasterboard, and wood or plastic panel ceilings. Today we’ll talk about how to make a plastic ceiling.

Features of plastic ceilings

Plastic panels for such ceilings are made from polyvinyl chloride - a safe and harmless material. In our country, PVC panels are used everywhere for finishing ceilings and walls, as well as for making containers for food and products. So there is no need to doubt the environmental friendliness of the material.

It is important to remember that plastic panels for walls and ceilings are different, and it is not recommended to buy one to replace the other. Ceiling panels are much lighter, and this is an important detail, although their mechanical strength is much lower. If you use wall panels when installing the ceiling, there will be a large load on the frame, and this is not very safe. And using plastic ceiling panels when decorating walls, you can observe their deformation over time.

Plastic ceiling is a type of suspended ceiling. A plastic sheathing is mounted on the frame, which is attached with special hangers. The frame requires wooden slats (you can use a metal profile). To make the ceiling itself, you can use simple, inexpensive materials, but it is better to spend money on higher quality plastic. Fastening of plastic panels to the ceiling is provided by plinths for plastic ceilings and a shaped profile.

There is one caveat when installing plastic ceilings. The appearance of the surface depends on the selected panels. When purchasing glossy panels, the joining seams will be inconspicuous on such a ceiling, they are practically invisible. The glossy ceiling is a reflective surface, which looks quite original. If you plan to make a ceiling from matte, colored or patterned panels, then be prepared that the seams will be visible quite clearly.

Advantages of a plastic ceiling

If you are making renovations in your apartment and plan to make a ceiling made of plastic, your choice is quite far-reaching, because such a ceiling has many advantages. Firstly, if your neighbors flood you, the plastic ceiling will not have to be redone, and if the flooding is not serious, you will not notice anything at all. And this is a big plus, because a ceiling covered with wallpaper or whitewashed would have to be whitewashed or glued a second time.

At the end of the work, you will receive a perfectly flat ceiling, which, if desired, can be washed with water or detergents. But even if you don’t bother with caring for your plastic ceiling, it will still not lose its beauty and originality. Even in the event of temperature changes, the ceiling will retain its flat surface. Ceilings covered with wallpaper fade over time, but plastic ceilings will retain their appearance for many years.

With the help of such a ceiling, you can not only hide large irregularities or pipes, but also turn them into a part of the interior by installing beautiful modern lamps in that place. The ceiling can be made not only smooth, but also embossed, using wide panels with contours. Another advantage of a plastic suspended ceiling is its price. Of course, this is not the cheapest type of ceiling, but still, it will cost you much less than, for example, a suspended ceiling. In addition, the air gap that forms between the ceiling and the plastic creates good sound insulation.

Since PVC panels are surprisingly moisture resistant, it is logical to install them in the bathroom. When flooded, plastic panels are able to withstand the weight of water and not be afraid of the main enemy of moisture called mold. Especially if PVC panels are also installed on the walls and in the kitchen. For the same reason, such material is excellent for lining a home catering unit. Plastic panels in the kitchen are especially good, because such a ceiling is easy to clean with ordinary detergents, and, as you know, with constant operation of a gas stove, all surfaces become dirty with soot.

Selecting plastic for installation

First you need to calculate how much material you need. It's quite simple if you know the area of ​​the ceiling. If not, then it can be measured. A room with a complex configuration will need to be divided into parts - rectangular sections on the ceiling, then the results should be rounded up. If the room is rectangular, it will be easier to measure everything.

When purchasing, you just need to look at the packaging - the area of ​​one plastic panel must be indicated there. Also take into account the number of panels in the package, count how many panels are needed to cover the entire area and add a little (taking into account trimming and the like).

You can decide on the type and color of plastic directly when purchasing. The design of the entire room depends on which panels you choose to install the plastic ceiling. White panels are the cheapest, while panels with patterns and textures will cost more. All panels must be made in the same color (color scheme), and the drawing, if any, must be accurate and correct. If a panel is lighter than the rest, or, on the contrary, very dark, it is best to change it to one that fits perfectly into the overall tone of all the panels.

When you buy a material such as plastic, you need to be very careful and inspect each panel, because defective models are not desirable to use. When you have purchased plastic, when transporting it to your home, remember that it must not be damaged, because then during installation it will not fulfill its function and will not create perfectly even joints.

Selection of materials and tools

So, first you should get acquainted with the most common profiles for fastening plastic panels:

1. The most common starting profile. Such structures are used to cover the ends of the panels and are attached to the ceiling along the perimeter of the entire room.
2. The H-profile is also called connecting. Based on the name, it is used to increase the length of panels.
3. The F-profile is designed to cover the ends of plastic panels at the outer corners when transitioning to another plane. That is, one wall is covered with PVC panels, but the one around the corner is not.
4. The plastic ceiling plinth is essentially the same starting profile, but slightly refined.
5. External and internal plastic corners are used to cover end panels at internal and external corners.
6. The universal plastic corner can be glued to any corner, but it does not look promising.

To decide on the number of profiles, you need a diagram drawn in advance. Draw a proportionally reduced ceiling on paper. It should be taken into account that the profiles should be 60 centimeters apart from each other. This way, it will be easier to figure out the number of beams, the footage of the plinth and profile. You will also need to buy hangers for the frame, lamps (if necessary) and fasteners.

Profiles that are attached around the perimeter are also required. The number of self-tapping screws for fastening panels and dowels, which are necessary for fixing the profiles, is calculated taking into account the number of required profiles plus the reserve. If desired, replace the profiles with wooden beams and use staples instead of screws. This way you can reduce the cost of the process and simplify the assembly of plastic panels.

To calculate the amount of ceiling plinth required, you need to divide the ceiling perimeter by 3 (if the length of the segment is 3 meters). The tools you will need are: ruler, wallpaper knife, tape measure, construction level, hacksaw, drills, stepladder. As well as a drill, hammer drill, dowels, self-tapping screws, painting cord, hangers and ceiling profiles. When all the tools are prepared and the materials have been purchased, you can begin installing the ceiling.

Preparatory work

Basically, preparatory work when installing a plastic ceiling with your own hands is not necessary, but if desired, you can sand it with medium-grit sandpaper. Of course, if you are making such a ceiling in a room with high humidity, for example, in a bathroom, it is better to treat the concrete floor with an antifungal compound.

The first step is to decide on the level of the future ceiling (how many centimeters it will be lowered). If you do decide to install lamps, do not forget to leave room for them. Basically, lamps have a depth of five to ten centimeters.

If you install the lamps yourself, pay attention to the resistance of the wire you buy, but without certain knowledge in this matter, it is better to turn to a professional. It is better to secure the wires above the plastic in advance and bring them to the switch. The wiring must be insulated and hidden behind profiles. Next, we make markings on the wall around the perimeter.

Installation of the box on the ceiling

When determining the horizontal, it is important to remember that the slanting ceiling will be conspicuous, so you need to measure everything more than once, first measuring the height of all corners and choosing the lowest one. Then you should retreat 5 centimeters to the floor and mark the horizontal, using a water level. You should leave marks in the corners and on the ledges, as in the photo of plastic ceilings. Next, using a painting cord, beat off the lines that you previously determined.

On the marked strip, which shows how much lower the ceiling will be, you need to drill holes for the dowels. This must be done using a drill or hammer drill. You need to make holes straight through the profile. You need to insert dowels into these holes and attach the ceiling profile to the wall. The usual length of such profiles is three meters, but they can also be connected to each other if you suddenly have a very large room by inserting one into another. At the same time, do not forget to secure the profiles together with bugs.

Along the entire perimeter of the room there should be a profile attached to the wall, and on the ceiling - suspensions to which the ceiling profile will be attached. Hangers should be attached along a straight line. The necessary lines can be created using a painting cord, not forgetting the distance (about 60 centimeters from one another).

After this you need to tighten the fishing line. This must be done as shown in the video about plastic ceilings, across the entire room, from wall to wall. Next, this thread should be attached to the dowels that already hold the profile. It is important to remember that if you pull the fishing line incorrectly or not tightly enough, sagging cannot be avoided, but you need to get a perfectly flat horizontal line.

The profile should be fixed at the thread level. To do this, you need an assistant who will hold the profile so that it is as close as possible to the thread, but does not touch it. Having attached the profile to the hangers, you need to bend them. When the frame is built, you can begin covering the ceiling with plastic. It is recommended to fasten the plastic itself with self-tapping screws, not forgetting the points of contact with the profile. It is better to seal even the smallest seams with silicone, and remove excess material with a spatula so that the ceiling looks neat.

Plastic ceiling lining

When you have started working directly with plastic, pay attention to the room. If it is slightly skewed and uneven around the perimeter, then the first strip of plastic must be cut off very carefully in order to properly hide this defect. It is necessary that the following strips are attached to the profile perfectly, at right angles.

It is important to know before making a plastic ceiling that the installation of panels can be carried out not only across the room. You can install the panels lengthwise and diagonally, and the colors can thus be easily combined if you want to end up with an original ceiling with an unusual pattern. If you choose thin plastic, you can bend it to trim the corners, this will help create an unusual design. There is also a special corner plastic that hides the panel joints. Using plastic you can also make a multi-level ceiling.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling starts from one wall. They need to be cut exactly to the length of the surface using a hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder. When cutting the first panel, you need to make it slightly shorter than the width of the room, approximately 3-5 millimeters. Sand the edges using sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Be careful not to wrinkle the panels. And most importantly, do not forget to remove the film from them before installation!

You need to work carefully because this material is quite fragile. Before covering, you need to treat plastic with care. If you have already caused damage to the purchased plastic, you can try to hide it with silicone, preferably white. This option will not work if you have chosen colored plastic, because silicone can be white and transparent.

Secure the first panel tightly with self-tapping screws to the profiles, attach all subsequent panels to the mounting profile rails according to the design type. The most difficult stage of the entire procedure is the installation of the last panel. You need to cut the length a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to the starting profile on the opposite one. Insert the panel with one side all the way into the profiles, directly into the corner.

The second end will dangle freely; slide the panel out of the first corner and insert it. You will have a small gap between the penultimate and last panels, but they need to be joined somehow. Sometimes you can do this on your own, but more often than not you can’t. Then you can use masking tape. Glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it towards the previous one.

To install the lamp, mark the location on the panel with a pencil. Then you need to cut a hole using a utility knife. Insert the light into the hole and connect the wire to it. The wires need to be run to the ceiling. If you need to install several lamps, it is recommended to connect them in parallel to each other.

Upon completion of installation, the room will be greatly transformed. But it will still need to be covered with a frieze around the perimeter. This is done in order to hide the places where the plastic is attached. And if we take into account the moisture resistance and practicality of such a ceiling, we can say that this is quite an advantageous choice for renovation in your home.