Installation of an attic roof. Mansard roofs: types and design features. Types of rafter systems for sloping roofs

How to build a mansard roof with your own hands. Construction stages. Installation of insulation. Creation of a rafter system. Construction technology.

After building the frame of the building, many people want to save money and build the attic roof with their own hands. However, in order for this process to proceed “without a hitch”, it is necessary to know all the nuances of installation at each stage.

Stages of work. Roof installation. Types of roofing materials. Features of the rafter system. Installation of sheathing, waterproofing and insulation. Types of roofs. Correctness of work.

Dormer windows

Using all possible space, giving the house originality and significantly reducing heat loss through the roof - these are the tasks that the attic solves. If there is a certain margin of safety at the foundation, in this way you can turn a one-story house into a two-level one. Another attractive thing is that you can build an attic roof with your own hands even without special construction skills.

It is important not to make a mistake with the choice of materials and do everything according to the rules.

Windows on a regular floor are located in the walls. In attics there are no or almost no walls. They are replaced by a roof. That’s why windows are made special: they not only must let in sufficient light, but also withstand wind and snow loads, which are much greater on the roof than on the walls.

When planning an attic, you should take into account the recommendations of SNiP. They recommend making the window area no less than 10% of the floor area. So if the attic is divided into several rooms, each should have a window.

Of all the methods shown in the photo for installing skylights with an attic, inclined installation is the easiest to implement. In this case, it is necessary to ensure the proper degree of waterproofing of the junction, and also to use special models with reinforced frames and reinforced glass - the load on the surface can be significant.

Advantages of a sloping roof window:

• more light, less sharp boundaries of light and shadow;
• the roof surface remains flat, its relief is not complicated;
• relatively easy installation.

When planning such a window, it is necessary to remember that its area increases with increasing angle of inclination.

The width of the window frame should be 4-6 cm less than the pitch between the rafters. Then it can be easily installed without disturbing the structure of the frame. If the window is wider, it is necessary to make a reinforced beam above it and calculate the load.

If you need to have a larger window, it is easier to place two narrow ones side by side. They look no worse than one big one, and there will be fewer problems.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

When installing a dormer window, the roof geometry becomes more complicated: a valley appears on top and on the sides. Because of this, the rafter system becomes more complex both during planning and during assembly.

The complexity of laying the roof covering also increases. All valleys are the places where leaks are most likely to occur. Therefore, everything needs to be done very carefully. In regions with a lot of snow, it is advisable to install snow guards over such windows so that they are not blown away in the event of a sudden meltdown.

The advantage of such a window is that you can stand next to it at full height. But they let in less light, the terrain becomes more complex and the roof becomes more problematic.

A recessed window is usually used if there is access to a balcony through it. In other cases, this method of arrangement is not the best option: little light gets in, the shadows turn out to be very deep, which is tiring for the eye, the geometry also becomes more complex, although not to the same extent as in the previous version.

The easiest way is to make a window at the end of the attic. In this case, a reinforced frame or reinforced glass is not needed. Just high-quality glass is quite enough. It is this option that can most often be seen in country attics: this is the most inexpensive option that can easily be implemented with your own hands.

Rafter system

When independently building private houses with an attic, they usually choose a broken roof. It allows you to get a room of significant area, larger than under a gable.

The design of the sloping mansard roof is such that the overhangs can be lowered quite low, giving the house an interesting look. But the long overhang of the roof serves not only a decorative role. They also cover the upper part of the wall from precipitation and divert the bulk of the water away from the foundation. Although when planning you need to keep in mind that in strong winds they increase windage. Because of this, it is necessary to use more powerful boards and beams. Therefore, the size of the roof overhang is chosen based on several considerations, the main one of which is weather conditions.

Tilt angle

Depends on the roofing material, but most of all - on the region and weather conditions. The classic version is shown in the figure: the lower slopes in relation to the plane of the attic floor are inclined by 60°, the upper slopes by 30°. Based on these data and the parameters of your building, you can calculate all lengths. Just take into account that according to SNiP, the ceiling height in the attic cannot be less than 2 m. Then, by definition, this is an attic. A person will feel comfortable if the ceiling is raised to a height of at least 2.2-2.3 m. Based on this, according to the rules of geometry, calculate the required lengths.

In the classic version, the load from precipitation on the side surfaces may not be taken into account. Precipitation can only be retained on the upper part, the angle of inclination of which is less than 45°.

In general, the inclination of the side surfaces usually varies between 45° and up to 80°. The steeper the slope, the greater the windage it has, this must be taken into account: in regions with strong winds it is better to make flatter roofs. Then wind loads will be perceived much better.

Types of rafter systems for sloping roofs

To make the frame of a sloping roof with your own hands, they most often use pine lumber, grade no lower than 2. The choice of cross-section of timber and boards depends on the size of the roof, the selected roofing covering (its weight), wind and snow loads in the region, and the installation pitch of the rafters. All these parameters are taken into account in the calculation. The methodology is prescribed in SNiP 2.08.01-89 and TKP 45-5.05-146-2009.

For a small building, the roof frame can be generally simple: at the top there are two hanging rafters, a tie rod, floor beams, racks and side rafters

The attic in the room not only provides additional living space, but also creates a cozy atmosphere and improves the overall appearance of the building. Due to the fact that an “air cushion” is created, the presence of an attic ensures that heat is retained inside the main room itself, despite the fact that it can only be used by residents in the hot season and cannot be heated in the cold season. When constructing an additional room, you need to take into account that an attic can be made, however, independent work can be complicated by the complexity of the structure and its size, so it is better to turn to the services of a professional.

Roof modifications are varied, but the most commonly used are the gable or broken modification. They differ in their organization from each other. First, before making the attic roof of a house with your own hands, you should decide which of the two modifications is more preferable for a particular house, and is also easier to install in a particular case; you need to study the features of both structures. When building an attic, you need to understand which type of support method to prefer from the two available. The roof of any building is one of two variations of rafter systems, either a layered structure or a hanging one. Both of these structures have their own characteristics; their choice depends on the placement of the load-bearing wall of the building.

Top hanging type

This is the name given to the organization of rafters, the base for which is only the outermost base walls of the building. This model is used if the building has no other major ceilings other than external walls. The use of this design is permissible, taking into account that the distance between both capital foundations does not exceed eight meters, the reason for this is the noticeable weighting of the supporting structures on the base. As you understand, this load should be reduced. To do this, you can use the following devices:

• struts;
• crossbars;
• grandmothers;
• puffs.

Beams that are used, for example, for ceilings are pulled up by means of struts to the supporting legs, and the tie is suspended by the headstock to the upper node. For the ceiling in this type of structure, hewn logs or wide crossbars placed on the edge are used. The profile must be at least 100 by 200 mm. In order to maintain the required dimensions, it is recommended to contact a specialist to perform all calculations; the floor in the attic room must be reliable.

Type of layered structure

Unlike the previous scheme, the structure is mounted not only on both supporting external walls, but also on solid floors placed on the base. Therefore, before you build an attic roof with your own hands, you need to plan in advance the construction of the attic itself, namely, the construction of the foundation. In the event that the base is made of strips, on which it is already planned to raise load-bearing partitions, then the layered system is the best option. In this case, the structure can withstand impressive loads and in this regard has an advantage over a hanging scheme; in addition, it provides a powerful foundation for the logs and deck of the building. Thanks to the base floors, the layered structure has additional support. When a builder chooses a broken roofing option for an attic, you can use a mixed roofing system, in which the side rafters are a layered system, and the top rafters are a hanging system.

When constructing a building from blocks or bricks, often the front part of the attic is built from the same material. The main advantage is that the builder does not need to calculate the dimensions of the top elements, assemble them and move them to the wall. However, it must be remembered that a do-it-yourself mansard roof requires a preliminary, carefully developed structure diagram. With such a scheme, the foundation must be strong and the thickness of the walls must be appropriate, since with such a pediment there is a huge burden on the base building.

Let's look at this situation. You have decided to use the attic as part of your living space, what will you need for this? First, decide how you want to use it. If it is used year-round and as a living room, then the most suitable option for you would be a front wall made of brick or foam blocks. To ensure the optimal height of the attic room under a gable roof, the slopes must be made at an angle of 45-50 degrees, based on the width of the end part of the building. With a smaller angle, the living space of the room is significantly reduced. In order to avoid building an unreasonably high roof, which will lead to excessive consumption of materials, heavier construction and significant windage of the roof in strong winds, it is not recommended to increase the steepness of the slopes.

The construction of a gable roof is more simplified than that of a broken structure, due to the use of even rafters from the top to the edge of the walls, and the absence of additional connections and kinks. But the broken device has its own advantages; it allows you to organize high ceilings in this part of the home and a spacious room. Installation of a broken system is much more complicated in all respects: in design, in laying the roof covering, in execution, but in this case the structure receives external solidity, and a significant space is formed under the roof. The installation of a broken structure is complicated by the presence of a large number of connecting nodes; all connections must be made according to the rules, only in this case the entire structure will be reliable and motionless.

This design provides for a significant number of complex joints of components. In this case, if the structure is made of brick or stone, then the front parts can be erected in advance, as in the original version of the attic, during the main masonry process. To create a support system in this case, it is necessary to organize intermediate supports and supporting connections to them, focusing on the already made gables. Before you implement your idea, you need to prepare. To build a mansard roof with your own hands, you need design drawings of the entire structure. They should be developed in advance, the dimensions should be displayed on them, and only after that it is necessary to organize the purchase of materials for the selected building from the scheme described above.

Design dimensions for a gable roof attic

In order to correctly arrange all the elements in the overall model, it is necessary to take a figure with right angles as a reference point, for example from a square or rectangle - the profile created by the attic room. Taking the parameters of the height and width of the room as a basis, it is almost impossible to make a mistake in the angles at which the top slopes, all supporting elements, rafters and the location of the top will be located. After calculating these parameters, you must immediately transfer the digital data to the drawing. At the very beginning, the middle of the width of the front wall is determined. Taking this value as a basis, it is necessary to determine the height of the ridge, the ceiling of the attic room, the dimensions of the eaves overhang and the placement of the base walls.

Any of the designs implies the required volume of connecting joints of various modifications, so each link must be drawn separately in order to see in detail the connections of all nodes that converge at a point.

Each support diagram contains the main links and additional, optional ones in a number of designs. The main components of the attic roof are:

• floor logs are the basis for other elements of the rafter structure; they are mounted on the supporting walls of the building;
• the supporting leg, which is straight with a gable roof, but in a broken pattern is formed from two components. With this scheme, the upper support is called ridge support, since it forms the top point of the roof - the ridge; the attic walls are formed by rafters, which are called side;
• a sleeper or ridge board is a mandatory element of a gable roof, with an exception sometimes being, for example, when installing a broken structure;
• the mauerlat is attached to the base side walls of the building and is a powerful legel on which the support legs are mounted;
• To strengthen both gable and broken structures, supporting elements are needed - racks. With a broken pattern, side and top supports are attached, and when constructing a gable roof, the post is the basis for covering and insulating the walls of the room;
• bevels or connecting diagonal parts auxiliary fasten longitudinal beams or racks and supports, thus making the structure more monolithic.
• Beams for the attic floor are designed to connect the racks. They are considered the main basis in attics of all types.
• In the broken structure of the top, rafter purlins are provided, which are needed to impart rigidity to the structure.

In order to be sure that the created plan is executed correctly, it is recommended to consult with an expert. He will be able to check how correctly all the indicators of the entire building are calculated. Also, there are various training systems not for professionals, developed for advisory purposes, you can familiarize yourself with them by watching the video of a do-it-yourself mansard roof step by step on our website.

After preparing the drawing, based on the dimensions recorded in it, you can begin to calculate the amount of materials that are needed for the work. The choice of materials must take into account the requirements of environmental friendliness and fire safety equipment. Wooden elements must be treated with special impregnations to reduce the flammability of the material. To build the structure you will need to purchase:

• wood for supporting legs, the profile is selected based on calculations;
• depending on the chosen support system, the crossbar, which has a profile of either 100 by 15 mm, or 150 by 200 mm, in addition, the distance between the permanent wall structures must be taken into account;
• for rolling the Mauerlat, a sleeper with a profile of 100 by 150 or 150 by 150 mm is purchased;
• logs for racks 100 by 100 or 150 by 150 mm;
• the subfloor deck is made from unedged boards; in addition, it will be needed for a number of fastening elements;
• it is necessary to purchase various fastening fittings and metal sheets for cutting linings with a thickness of at least 1 mm;

The attic is the roof under which the living rooms are located. The shape of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution to obtain the maximum usable area of ​​a residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular roof, as are the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

• Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• Racks - vertical supports that support the rafter system;
• Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
• Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
• Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
• Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
• Lathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed for laying roofing on top of them and transferring the load to the rafter system;
• Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shapes of opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space significantly increases. The bottom of the rafters is usually set at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and the support posts supporting these rafters act as the frame for the interior walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical posts supported by floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits the internal dimensions of the attic. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and the internal lining of the attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.

Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw a detailed drawing that will indicate the overall dimensions of the house, the line of the slopes and the height of the attic.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof

1. Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. In wooden buildings, the top beam or log serves as the mauerlat. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. The mauerlat is leveled along the inner plane of the wall, and the remaining outside wall is later covered with decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made from dry softwood usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. The timber is sawed off to the required length, the anchor pins are straightened if necessary and the timber is placed on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Roll waterproofing is laid on the wall; you can use ordinary roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

   

2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the floors even, the beams are laid in a strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a pitch of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are hemmed or pads made from boards are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
3. Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a step equal to the step of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.

   

4. Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you have a rigid structure that limits the interior spaces of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
5. Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all the rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.

   

6. To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge of the installed board at the required level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
7. The required number of rafter legs is made according to the template. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or cutting boards with self-tapping screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Hanging racks are attached - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
8. Place struts under the lower rafters from 50x150 mm boards, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and attach the upper edge to the side of the rafter leg, nail it to one or two nails, then drill a through hole and secure it to a bolt or stud. . After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
9. Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
10. , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.

A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space created under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when covering the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the attic floors.

Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof

The installation of an attic allows you to expand the useful space of the house. A structure with a high slope roof will look solid, and its construction will require less effort than constructing a two-story building. The article will talk about how to make an attic roof at home with your own hands.

Types of rafter structures and roofs

How to make an attic roof for a house depends primarily on the intended roof structure.

There are 2 types of roofs for organizing an attic:

• Standard gable. The roof structure has 2 inclined slopes. The pediments in this case are triangular.
• broken roof. Both slopes in this design are further divided into 2. The gables have a pentagonal shape.

How to make a mansard roof

The construction of a gable roof is much simpler. But you should understand that the attic in such a design will be small and with low ceilings. Therefore, to complete the task, a sloping roof with a slope angle of 40 to 45 degrees is preferable. And the smaller the slope, the larger the attic space will be. But in this case, additional strengthening of the structure is necessary, adjacent beams between the rafters.

There are 2 types of rafter structures:

1. Layered structures. In this case, only the outer walls serve as support for the rafters.
2. Hanging structures. In them, additional strength is given due to the capital partitions on which the rafters rest.

The layered option can be implemented if there are no such partitions. But in this case, the load-bearing walls will have a very high load. Therefore, it is allowed to install layered structures only if the distance between the main walls is no more than 8 meters. If this is not the case, then it is preferable to organize hanging rafter systems.

How to build a mansard-type roof with a broken slope? For this purpose, combined types of structures are mainly installed. In them, the upper rafters are mounted in a hanging manner, the rest - layered. This design is most rational for buildings with a low roof slope.

To organize an attic room with ceilings of 2.5 meters, you need to make a roof with a break height of 3.1 meters. The preferred design slope is 60 and 30 degrees. At the top of the rafters, angles from 15 to 45 degrees are possible.

Do-it-yourself Mauerlat installation

In construction, the Mauerlat is the lower support of the roof, which is installed on top of load-bearing external walls. It allows you to support the roof structure, taking on a certain part of the load. Let's figure out how to make an attic roof yourself.

To organize a gable structure, it is necessary to fix the Mauerlat on both sides of the building where the rafters are located. In this case, the load from the roof will be distributed over the surface of the walls. If the roof structure is relatively light, then it is possible to install a mauerlat under the rafters. In other cases, it is placed along the entire perimeter of the walls.

It is necessary to prepare timber from coniferous wood, which will be used to make the Mauerlat. It is recommended to apply a waterproofing layer to the material. Ruberoid or bitumen are excellent for the task.

To install an attic roof with your own hands to the base, threaded rods designed for a wide washer are used. In its design you need to make holes corresponding to the size of the fastening. The drilling step should not exceed 2 meters.

Now let’s consider the option of how to make an attic roof with your own hands if the house is brick. To install the Mauerlat on brick walls, wooden plugs are used. It is advisable to leave pockets in the masonry - special gaps for laying the structure. In this case, the installation procedure will be easier. You can place a wire rod in the brickwork, to which you can easily screw the Mauerlat to the base. If you plan to build a house from concrete slabs or aerated concrete, then it is necessary to install an armored belt with metal studs. Moreover, their length should be such that it is enough to install the power plate with subsequent tightening with a lock nut.

In wooden structures, it is possible to replace the standard support with a beam or the top log of a log house. This is another way to make a mansard roof correctly.

Installation of purlins and struts

Purlins are additional horizontally located beams designed to strengthen the structure.

Types of runs:

• Lateral. Such purlins are placed along the entire roof slope. Their number depends on the surface area, as well as its slope.
• Skate. Used as support for the upper part of the rafters. Ridge purlins do not have to be used for sloping roofs.

Instructions for building a mansard roof with your own hands step by step:

1. The first step is laying the Mauerlat.
2. Then you need to place a temporary deck on the roof to make it easy to move around.
3. Now the installation of a U-shaped frame of racks, crossbars and purlins is underway.
4. When the frame is completed, 50x150 mm rafters need to be laid on it. The braces will add rigidity to the structure.

Installation of rafter legs

There are 2 types of rafter fastening:

1. sliding(it is also called hinged). It provides so-called skids in the mount, along which the rafters move along the mauerlat. It is suitable if there is a possibility of settling at home.
2. Hard. In this case, staples with bolts or wire with nails are used for connection.

The option of how to properly make an attic with a sliding fastening demonstrates greater reliability, since it takes into account the mobility of roof elements when the ground subsides. Sliding fastening will be useful when constructing a wooden house for which shrinkage is possible. It will help the roof “adapt” to the movement of the building.

How to build a roof correctly

Recommendation: to understand the location of the upper rafters, it is worth making a temporary stand from beams. It is attached to the Mauerlat so that its top is located along the center line of the roof. This design will be a hint when aligning the upper rafters, which will greatly facilitate the task.

It is necessary to make the upper part of the Mauerlat beveled. It is advisable to first make it from a thinner board. Then you need to attach it to the purlin and trace its contours. And then fill in the form according to the received form. This approach will allow you to do the work more accurately. Now you know how to build an attic roof with your own hands.