Installing mounts on off-road roller skis. Installation of mounts on roller skis. Installing bindings on a ski with a pre-installed NIS platform

Installing mounts on off-road roller skis.  Installation of mounts on roller skis.  Installing bindings on a ski with a pre-installed NIS platform
Installing mounts on off-road roller skis. Installation of mounts on roller skis. Installing bindings on a ski with a pre-installed NIS platform

So, the autumn preparatory cycle is completed, it’s raining non-stop outside, and I decided to sit down to update the blog. Finally! :)
Let's talk now about installing fasteners, now the NNN system on Svenors. In conclusion, I will describe my impressions of the Svenors during the season.


First, install the fasteners. Roller skis are still the same http://www.skiwax.ru/catalog/index.php?SECTION_ID=699&ELEMENT_ID=10547
Rotefella fastenings of the NNN system. Installation is extremely simple: arm yourself with a drill, screwdriver, epoxy, marker, ruler and patience;) It is better to take a special drill, if not, then its diameter should be 3.6mm, hole depth 14mm.








Regarding these mounts, I would like to say that they are much easier to install than Pilots and SNS System Profiles. No shifting, adjusting, fiddling, just placed on the platform, marked with a marker, drilled and installed.

1. In the previous post, I wrote that for NNN fastenings you will need a ruler, to measure according to the size of the boots, etc... So, none of this is required :) We proceed from this situation: the maximum extended fastening for the largest boot size will be in the emphasis is on the metal “fork” on the roller skates, this confirms the comparison between the Pilots and Rotafella.


Now we simply move the back part of the mount to right size(in our case, this is 42)and mark the locations for the holes with a marker. If you don't have a marker, take a screw and a screwdriver and scratch with the screw :)

Here's what we get in comparison

2. Next, we drill holes along the indicated holes, carefully monitoring the position of the drill and the drilling location - the surface of the rollers is smooth and the drill can slip.

3. Blow off the dust, dilute the epoxy and pour it into the drilled holes.


4. Screw in the fasteners as soon as possible. Then we put on the wings and this is what we get at the output.


Don't forget to pour epoxy into the holes for the wings

5. We install the second mount and admire it.


6. We wait a day for the epoxy to harden and start training!)))

And now impressions of the work of the skaters.
Since writing previous post my opinion has not changed, excellent rollers, excellent performance, as close as possible to skis in feel. The platform eats up all the unevenness of the track. For knees - The best decision, especially for bad/old tracks.
Let's not forget that we had wheels No. 3, slow.
What kind of work did we do this preparatory season at Svenory:
a) power on any terrain
b) long lasting on any terrain
c) short speed-strength exercises (up to 10 seconds) on any terrain.
d) power work, including according to Samokhin, on easy terrain.
The high-speed ones didn’t, as I wrote in the previous review, the high-speed ones still need wheels No. 2.
Impressions: I think that these roller skis gave us a lot in terms of strength. Significantly increased strength endurance. The technique has improved, which became noticeable when I switched to Start roller skates in the fall: the ride became longer and I became more confident on my feet. The ankle has become stronger and the sense of balance has improved. By the fall, the ankle stopped turning outward when stepping onto the leg. outside, even in our broken-down boots - we got used to it.
Without a doubt, technical training contributed to everything, but at the same time, the merit of training on the Svenors also lies in this. The wheel is narrower than that of the Starts, larger in diameter, and therefore less stable. You get up to the Starts and they seem super stable.
Training on water and wet asphalt did not reveal any problems. I lubricated it after training in the rain, did not thoroughly disassemble the roller, only removed the wheels, tried to force the oil into the bearing with a syringe and a needle, and it seemed to work.
Training in cold weather is also possible, the sensations hardly change, a little slower on the first lap, then they warm up more or less. By the way, at the Starts the difference in warm and cold training is more significant.
In terms of the quality of components.
During training on the Seminsky Pass on bad asphalt, we significantly reduced the tires, especially Max, due to the fact that he weighs more. In addition, they let the kids from the section ride, and they used the roller skates to the maximum. I estimate that by switching the wheels (front to rear), they will last another season and a half.
The platform is alive and well, although something quacks when I push it in one of the rollers, but I don’t see any external damage and there’s no feeling that something is broken there, I believe it’s the fastening.
I read that the problem with the Svenors was the metal “fork” that attaches the wheel to the platform. Hmm... It's hard to imagine that something could happen to her.
To summarize, I will say that the impressions from the skaters are only positive. When compared with Starts, the advantage of Swenor is obvious. If with Marvs, then whoever you like. The feeling on the skate is close. Marve's wheels wear down a little faster, as it seemed to me, the composition of the rubber is slightly different, and on Marve's there is less of it.
I recommend, as before, to buy roller skates with wheels No. 2.

So, the autumn preparatory cycle is completed, it’s raining non-stop outside, and I decided to sit down to update the blog. Finally! :)
Let's talk now about installing fasteners, now the NNN system on Svenors. In conclusion, I will describe my impressions of the Svenors during the season.


First, install the fasteners. Roller skis are still the same http://www.skiwax.ru/catalog/index.php?SECTION_ID=699&ELEMENT_ID=10547
Rotefella fastenings of the NNN system. Installation is extremely simple: arm yourself with a drill, screwdriver, epoxy, marker, ruler and patience;) It is better to take a special drill, if not, then its diameter should be 3.6mm, hole depth 14mm.








Regarding these mounts, I would like to say that they are much easier to install than Pilots and SNS System Profiles. No shifting, adjusting, fiddling, just placed on the platform, marked with a marker, drilled and installed.

1. In the previous post, I wrote that for NNN fastenings you will need a ruler, to measure according to the size of the boots, etc... So, none of this is required :) We proceed from this situation: the maximum extended fastening for the largest boot size will be in the emphasis is on the metal “fork” on the roller skates, this confirms the comparison between the Pilots and Rotafella.


Now we simply move the back part of the mount to the desired size (in our case, it is 42)and mark the locations for the holes with a marker. If you don't have a marker, take a screw and a screwdriver and scratch with the screw :)

Here's what we get in comparison

2. Next, we drill holes along the indicated holes, carefully monitoring the position of the drill and the drilling location - the surface of the rollers is smooth and the drill can slip.

3. Blow off the dust, dilute the epoxy and pour it into the drilled holes.


4. Screw in the fasteners as soon as possible. Then we put on the wings and this is what we get at the output.


Don't forget to pour epoxy into the holes for the wings

5. We install the second mount and admire it.


6. We wait a day for the epoxy to harden and start training!)))

And now impressions of the work of the skaters.
During the time since writing the previous post, my opinion has not changed, excellent rollers, excellent performance, as close as possible to skis in feel. The platform eats up all the unevenness of the track. For knees - the best solution, especially for bad/old tracks.
Let's not forget that we had wheels No. 3, slow.
What kind of work did we do this preparatory season at Svenory:
a) power on any terrain
b) long lasting on any terrain
c) short speed-strength exercises (up to 10 seconds) on any terrain.
d) power work, including according to Samokhin, on easy terrain.
The high-speed ones didn’t, as I wrote in the previous review, the high-speed ones still need wheels No. 2.
Impressions: I think that these roller skis gave us a lot in terms of strength. Significantly increased strength endurance. The technique has improved, which became noticeable when I switched to Start roller skates in the fall: the ride became longer and I became more confident on my feet. The ankle has become stronger and the sense of balance has improved. By the fall, the ankle stopped turning to the outer side when stepping out, even in our broken-down boots - we got used to it.
Without a doubt, technical training contributed to everything, but at the same time, the merit of training on the Svenors also lies in this. The wheel is narrower than that of the Starts, larger in diameter, and therefore less stable. You get up to the Starts and they seem super stable.
Training on water and wet asphalt did not reveal any problems. I lubricated it after training in the rain, did not thoroughly disassemble the roller, only removed the wheels, tried to force the oil into the bearing with a syringe and a needle, and it seemed to work.
Training in cold weather is also possible, the sensations hardly change, a little slower on the first lap, then they warm up more or less. By the way, at the Starts the difference in warm and cold training is more significant.
In terms of the quality of components.
During training on the Seminsky Pass on bad asphalt, we significantly reduced the tires, especially Max, due to the fact that he weighs more. In addition, they let the kids from the section ride, and they used the roller skates to the maximum. I estimate that by switching the wheels (front to rear), they will last another season and a half.
The platform is alive and well, although something quacks when I push it in one of the rollers, but I don’t see any external damage and there’s no feeling that something is broken there, I believe it’s the fastening.
I read that the problem with the Svenors was the metal “fork” that attaches the wheel to the platform. Hmm... It's hard to imagine that something could happen to her.
To summarize, I will say that the impressions from the skaters are only positive. When compared with Starts, the advantage of Swenor is obvious. If with Marvs, then whoever you like. The feeling on the skate is close. Marve's wheels wear down a little faster, as it seemed to me, the composition of the rubber is slightly different, and on Marve's there is less of it.
I recommend, as before, to buy roller skates with wheels No. 2.

Roller skis are roller skis. By analogy with roller skates, they are intended for skating on asphalt, for summer training of skiers, and for competitions. Among fans of roller skiing there are both beginner amateurs and professional athletes.

Marking

A pair of roller skis consists of two platforms with rollers attached to them. The rollers themselves are equipped with mudguards. New roller ski bindings often come separately and can be classic or skate. Self-installation fastenings begin with markings. Attach the ski binding assembly to the platform so that the widest part of the binding sole is aligned with the middle of the roller platform. If you attach classic fastenings for classic running, attach the fastening end-to-end to the rear mudguard. After this, mark the location for screwing in the front mounting screw.

Some roller ski models are sold already marked for installation of bindings. Typically they contain two sets of screw marks. The first one is for boots big size(more than 40), the second is for small shoes (size less than 40). It is better to install fasteners using a special template to ensure maximum accuracy.

Fastening

Before screwing in the screws, pre-drill holes for them. For drilling, use a drill with adjustable speed and drill bits that provide required diameter and hole depth. If you have access to specialized equipment, use a special drill with an extension. It ensures that the drill is centered in the drill and stops at the required depth. When using a standard drill, use drills with a diameter of 3.4-3.6 mm. If drilling occurs with the help of a brace, the use of a jig is mandatory: without it, the drill often moves to the side.

For fastening, use the self-tapping screws included with the fasteners. Although they are difficult to twist, they hold securely and firmly. The screws can be wetted before screwing in. machine oil to reduce the force applied to the screwdriver. Unlike skis, drilling holes in rollerblades must be done with the utmost care. While an erroneous hole in skis can be sealed with a plug, this cannot be done on roller skates. To drive screws, you can use screwdrivers with PH 3 or PZ 3 bits.

Many athletes use alternative method screwing fasteners using countersunk head screws type M4x25. Screwing points are marked with a stencil, Bottom part drilled for steel hollow T-shaped pistons. The pistons are inserted from below and countersunk screws are screwed into them. Unlike self-tapping screws, although this method is more labor-intensive, it is much more accurate and reliable when using rollers intensively. This option is also ideal for those who have already unsuccessfully drilled holes for self-tapping screws.


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This article will talk about installing bindings on roller skis. What set of tools do you need to have for all this action?

There is a little trick. The screw is problematic to screw into the metal (into the roller ski platform). We lubricate it with some viscous substance (for example, I always use ski wax), and everything will go like clockwork.

If you don’t go into details, it works general rule to install bindings (both for classic roller skis and skate skis): the ski binding assembly is applied to the roller ski platform close to the rear mudguard and a mark is made for drilling the screw in the front part of the bindings. Next, we make marks for the screws in accordance with the holes of the fasteners (if there is a jig, then along its holes).

Use a drill with a diameter of 4-4.5 mm.

For “SNS” type mounts (Atomic, Salomon) – The front mounting screw should be at a distance of 14.5 cm from the front mudguard rivet.

For “NNN” type fasteners (Rottefella, Fischer) – The front screw is drilled at a distance of 17 cm from the front mudguard rivet.

SWENOR have their own table for installing mounts on roller skis. The table shows that for metal platforms use a 4mm drill, for fiberglass platforms use a 3.6mm drill. Depending on the model of roller skis and the type of bindings, the distance from the beginning of the platform (the starting point of measurement is different for metal and fiberglass platforms) to the groove of the bindings (the place where the boot is clamped into the binding) is indicated. Take measurements from the back of the platform!

If you have any questions, I will be glad to help!

A small reminder on the care of roller skis.

Rinse after use in wet weather. clean water and apply a sufficient amount of lubricant to the bearings, spin the wheels so that the lubricant is evenly distributed, then dry. Roller skis must be stored in a dry place, avoiding direct contact sun rays on wheels, because some tend to become deformed. Before training, always check the integrity of the wheels, fastenings and the reliability of the nuts on the axle.

), all that remains is to install the fastenings and train. The installation process is simple, but requires some skill. Therefore, we recommend contacting service center, where professionals will install fasteners quickly and efficiently. If you still want to do it yourself, then let's start.

Installing bindings on roller skis is practically no different from installing bindings on skis. To install bindings on roller skis you need the same set of tools as for installing on regular skis:

1. Special jig or template for installing fasteners

Conductors under various systems mounts are different, be sure to pay attention to this (SNS and NNN). The jig for installing mounts on roller skis is shorter than for installing skis.


2. Drill for installing fasteners

On sale you can find special drills with a stop, for example Rottefella 3.7 mm drills for skis and 4.1 mm for metal roller skis. If you don’t have a special drill, then a regular metal drill will do. Many sources recommend installing fasteners with a 4 mm drill, but from experience we recommend 4.5 mm. Screws fit into such holes more easily and hold tightly. If there is only a standard Rottefella 3.7 or 4.1 mm, then it is better to widen the holes by placing the drill at an angle. You can lubricate the screw with any household grease or machine oil; some recommend using ski grip wax. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to screw in the screw.

note, that NIS platforms come with larger screws and it is better to drill 5 mm holes for them.


3. Screwdriver and screwdriver for tightening

On the left is the PH standard, on the right – PZ

1. Unlike skis, you don’t need to look for balance on roller skates. The mounts are placed so that the heel of the boot is close to the mudguard of the rear wheel.


2. We attach the fasteners to the frame of the roller skate and mark the front hole or axis of the boot. If it is more convenient, you can mark the hole for the heel and set the template along it.

3. Install the jig according to the markings and drill the required holes.

4. Screw in the mount. The screws go into the metal very tightly - this is normal..

Advice:

On the bindings it is better to change the flexor to Hard, and on the SNS pilot increase the spring force so that the roller does not sag too much from the heel of the boot.