Installing a shower cabin with your own hands - assembly instructions. Do-it-yourself shower cabin: the procedure for constructing and connecting to communications How to properly assemble a shower cabin
When installing a shower cabin, many people use the services of craftsmen. However, often the installation procedure does not take place according to technology, since the master tries to finish as quickly as possible and take money for all completed and uncompleted actions. Knowledge of installation technology will allow you to easily install a shower stall yourself or competently control the installation process by a specialist.
The main thing when installing a shower stall is to choose the right place for installation. It should be next to the hood and, if the model has many additional functions, connected to the electrical network with mandatory grounding. When assembling the pallet, you need to use a building level, since the pallet must be installed strictly horizontally. When installing a pipeline, be sure to use sealants, otherwise water leakage will force you to redo the entire job. When connecting the cabin to the water supply, you must install at least one filter. All pipes are run along the baseboards or hidden in a box or wall.
Let's look at a detailed example of installing a shower stall using Massimo as an example. This is a corner booth made in China with a high tray. Size - 100x100 cm. Bought for 30 thousand rubles. For other models and manufacturers, assembly may vary.
Tools
For installation we will need:
- wrench 19 and adjustable wrench 45;
- long Phillips screwdriver with PH2 bit;
- transparent sanitary silicone;
- construction gun for sealant;
- silicone spatula;
- spray;
- fairies;
- drill with 3 mm drill bit;
- roulette;
- bubble level 1 m;
- jigsaw;
- erasable marker;
- thread locker or cold welding;
- water supply hose 1/2″ nut-nut - 2 pcs. (length is selected according to location);
- sewer crossing 40x50;
- toilet paper.
Pallet assembly
After attaching locknuts to the studs, screw them into the pan. Short - to the center. Screw it in by hand until it stops and secure it with a nut. When tightening, do not apply much force, otherwise the thread may break. Only cold welding will help save the situation.
Screw the second locknut onto each stud with the notches facing up.
We lay the frame on the studs, tighten it and fix it on both sides with nuts.
We screw plastic brackets for the shower screen onto the 4 front studs. The perforated part should hang down.
We fasten the legs with locknuts and install the pallet in place.
We adjust the height of the screen to the lower edge of the side of the pallet. It is adjusted to the level by twisting the legs.
The lower edge of the brackets must be set with a gap of 20 mm from the floor, without being tightened to the end.
Connection to sewerage
To install the drain and siphon, remove the protective film around the drain hole. It is better to replace the upper rubber gasket with silicone sealant. We screw on the siphon. We also treat the threads and lower connections with sealant for reliability.
You need to connect the siphon to the sewer through an adapter. This connection is also coated with silicone.
If everything works, you need to disconnect from the sewer and continue installation.
Installation of side walls
We remove the protective film from the top of the pallet, but leave the bottom protected for now.
We move the pallet away from one wall and install an opaque wall there. 
We connect the holes in the pallet with the corner and screw it with 35 mm self-tapping screws (without much effort).
We install the partition back and remove excess silicone. Further I will not write about removing excess, remove it immediately after pressing the parts. 
We move the pallet with the partition to the wall and try on the central panel to see if additional lining is needed. 
We apply silicone to the junction of the side wall and the central panel. 
We tie them together with 10 mm self-tapping screws.
We fasten the second side wall in the same way as the first.
Let's try on a fixed transparent partition. The bevel cut of the metal profile should be at the bottom.
If everything matches, we silicone the profile and install the partition. We set the top edge flush with the wall. From the upper outer side of the profile, drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm and tighten the partition with the wall using self-tapping screws. This is what it looks like in practice.
Install the upper and lower profile. The rounded parts are directed towards each other, the upper profile is wider than the lower one. We apply silicone under the bottom one.
Ceiling assembly
Assembling the ceiling of the shower stall. To remove the film, unscrew the ventilation grilles and the speaker.
We install the ceiling in place, without silicone for now. It is screwed from below using 4 16 mm stainless steel screws.
We connect and check water and electricity. Do not wet the top edge of the tray.
We put the booth in place and check its stability and level.
From the inside, we treat the lower perimeter and the central pillar with silicone.
Door installation
From the handle side we put magnetic moldings on the doors. On the other sides there are L-shaped moldings with the shelf facing outwards.
We hang the doors on the upper rollers. To start the lower ones, press the buttons.
We check the smooth movement of the doors and the tightness of the connection. Doors must not open independently from any position. The connection is adjusted using screws on the upper rollers.
Screen installation
We remove the screen and make marks opposite the brackets.
We install the screen by installing wedges from below.
When the silicone dries, we spill the joints of the cabin and check the functionality of the watering cans and switch.
Installing a shower stall is a fairly simple procedure, provided you follow the instructions and know the basics of plumbing work. If you have never dealt with connecting plumbing, it is better to entrust the installation work to specialists.
A shower is a device whose appearance can be dated back to the time when people just learned to supply water through pipes. Shower stalls are a logical development of this device. Even in the Soviet Union, they were actively used where there were restrictions on the size of bathrooms, although they gained the greatest popularity in the West. At the present time, shower stalls are in stable demand in the domestic market, which determines the variety of prices for them. As a consequence of this popularity, the price of installation is increased, which is why assembling a shower cabin with your own hands is becoming popular.
Shower cabins on the market are represented by both Chinese models, which are in demand due to their average quality and low price, and more durable ones made in Germany, Italy, Russia and other countries. It is this variety of goods that makes choice accessible.
Preliminary stage
Cabin assembly begins with checking all components. It is necessary to fully check the integrity of all elements, especially glass. They are made using special technology, are shockproof and hardened, so if damaged they break into many elements without sharp edges. Simply shake the packaging to determine the integrity of the glass by sound. Defects, geometric errors, or damage are unacceptable on the remaining parts of the shower stall.
Cabin elements include:
- pallet (has various shapes, most often comes with a reinforced frame);
- doors (most often have rollers for movement and fastening elements);
- glass for doors (usually transparent, less often frosted);
- walls, side panels (water supply and other functions are provided);
- roof of the shower stall (depending on the manufacturer and type, may be missing);
- factory fasteners and installation elements.
The assembly of a Chinese shower cabin, like any other, begins only after a thorough check and creation of a workplace. If the size of the bathroom is not large enough, it is better to assemble it in another place in several stages, transferring the finished parts.
For high-quality installation, you must have on hand the tools and additional materials from the list below.
Required tools:
- adjustable wrench (or gas);
- flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- metal drills of small diameter (3-6 mm);
- level (for leveling installed parts);
- a screwdriver, or a drill as a replacement;
- gun for squeezing out silicone;
- sharp knife.
Additional materials that may be needed:
- sealant (silicone) transparent, antibacterial;
- waterproofing tape;
- hoses for supplying hot and cold water;
- transition to sewer 32/50;
- paint, gloves, brush for correcting defects.
It is necessary to check the location for the shower stall being installed. It must be level, have waterproofing, and it is also desirable to have ventilation to remove steam if the cabin does not have a roof.
Pallet assembly
This is the most important stage, which determines how firmly the booth will stand, as well as how well it will work. Almost all pallets are equipped with legs on which it will stand, and the main thing is to align them correctly (use a level) and secure them (nuts and fasteners). Items related to pallet assembly:
- apron;
- bracket;
- hairpins;
- frame;
- nuts;
- screws;
- siphon;
- the pallet itself.
Advice. Before starting work, it is worth removing the apron from the pallet - it will only be needed at the end of assembly.
The installation instructions for the pallet are very simple.
Installation of panels
First, you need to once again inspect the glass panels and determine their orientation. Typically, the top of the glass has more holes than the bottom. To decide on the guides, you need to look at the dimensions - the top one will be larger and wider, and in the bottom guide you can see a small figured cutout. The assembly of a corner shower stall differs only in the number of side panels, there are fewer of them, only 2.
Installation must begin by installing the glass in the appropriate places in the guides. It is advisable to lubricate all joints with sealant. The guides must be connected to the stand with self-tapping screws, which are included in the kit. In this case, you need to put the seal on the glass. Silicone sealant should be used to coat the entire lower guide, which will connect to the pan. Then install the glass.
Advice. When applying sealant, it is necessary to leave the places for water drainage unfilled; it is advisable to clean them of foreign material.
You need to install the side panels on the pallet, checking the positions at the special fastening points where the self-tapping screws will have to be inserted to attach one to the other. After tightening the screws, you need to treat all joints with sealant, then install and secure the back panel.
Advice: do not tighten the screws all the way, maintaining a small gap, which may be needed for adjustment in the future.
The installation of the pallet assembled with panels must be done carefully, carefully measuring the level and gaps. Try to avoid strong impacts, as the metal may bend.
After installation, it is worth checking the operation of the electricity by connecting the radio, lighting or fan. If no problems arise, you can leave the shower stall for a while to allow the sealant to cure.
Installation of glass sashes
Before installing the doors on the doors, it is necessary to attach the rollers and seals in the places indicated for fastening. Having carefully secured and coated with sealant, it is necessary to install the sashes. You can adjust the gap between the doors using the upper rollers, ensuring that one door is completely adjacent to the other, in order to avoid water leaks while using the shower stall. On some models, the rollers have screws where you can install plugs to protect them from moisture.
Final stage
Your corner shower assembly is nearing completion. All that remains is to secure the shower head in the cabin with a hose; lamp for illumination, fan and speaker. All elements along the edges must be coated with sealant, and also used with a factory protective layer that protects against moisture.
After installation, you will need to check the cab pan for cracks, leaks, or other defects. If you hear a crackling sound or feel a change in the position of the tray, you need to adjust the height of the legs.
Advice. fill the pan with water and wait a few hours, you can see all the leaks.
If everything is in order, then you should finally connect the necessary communications: water, electricity and sewerage, and also attach the missing fittings - handles, mirrors and shelves.
Features of the assemblies of some models
The assembly of the Serena shower cabin differs from the general assembly of Chinese production
The first stage - installation of the Serena cabin tray is no different from the standard one, but then there are differences in the installation of the side parts of the shower stall and doors. They are installed on special factory racks, which must first be secured in the floor. Using factory fasteners, the side parts of the cabin will be attached to these racks. In this case, maintaining the angles between the pallet and the screen plays an important role. During the fastening process, it is necessary to carefully coat the holes with sealant.
The doors are installed last, have an original sliding system, special hinges for fastening, with the help of which they are opened and closed.
Installing the roof is very simple. It is fastened with bolts in the provided fastening points and does not cause any difficulties.
The Niagara shower assembly also has several differences in the installation and installation of the side parts and doors
The side parts of the Niagara cabin must be assembled according to the following instructions:
- the base (main part) is attached tightly to the wall;
- the side ones are threaded through specially provided holes. In this case, the entire connection is strengthened with sealant;
- after the connector has hardened, the doors are installed on factory hinges, which are located on one of the side parts;
- The installation of the roof and additional equipment is at the last stage.
Modern man is accustomed to rationalizing everything around him: he saves time, saves space, and reduces resource consumption. Therefore, the usual bathrooms are being replaced by functional and pragmatic shower cabins, which reduce water consumption and also take up much less space in the bathroom.
This plumbing innovation has already firmly entered our lives, but it has not yet become commonplace, so many homeowners are afraid to install it themselves. Already unsure of their abilities, they often succumb to the seller’s persuasion and order an expensive installation.
However, in fact, the manufacturers made sure that even an amateur could cope with this task, provided he had the necessary tools and materials. In this article we will tell you how to assemble a shower cabin with your own hands without the help of a specialist.
What is a shower cabin?
Shower cabin - this is a modern plumbing device, which is a tray closed on three sides with walls and a door, equipped with a mixer and shower . This device, unlike a bathtub, allows you to wash only while standing, or at least while sitting if the tray is deep enough.
Recently, shower stalls have been increasing the number of their users, catching up with traditional baths in this indicator. The reason for this is the following advantages of the cabins:
Please note! In addition to its main function, a shower stall often has additional functions: hydromassage, built-in audio system, lighting. All this increases the complexity of installing plumbing equipment several times. Most often, self-assembly of a shower cabin can only be done if the selected model has a minimum of bells and whistles.
Types of showers
The modern range of plumbing fixtures is quite large, so you can choose a model to suit every taste and budget. However, when purchasing, it is important to consider not only the aesthetic qualities and variety of functions, but also how the shower cabin is assembled. Conventionally, booth models are divided into the following types:
Important! Typically, the size of a shower tray is 100 cm by 100 cm. If the model is sold assembled, then it will not fit into the bathroom doorway, which is usually only 60 cm wide. In order not to break the wall and door frame, install the shower cabin with your own hands right on the spot.
Main difficulties during installation
Each model of plumbing equipment comes with instructions for assembling the shower cabin. The instructions describe in detail, step by step, the process of assembling the device, but are often silent about the difficulties that an inexperienced craftsman may encounter.
When starting to install the booth, you need to be prepared for the following nuances:
Remember that to connect models of shower cabins with additional functions (lighting, hydromassage, audio system), you will need the skills of not only a plumber, but also an electrician. Experts say that if you can save money on plumbing work, then it is better to entrust the electrical part of the installation to a professional, because electricity, especially in a damp room, is very dangerous.
What is required for self-assembly?
Before assembling the shower stall, you need to make sure that you have everything you need that will be useful during installation. It is better to prepare all materials and tools in advance so that they are at hand. So, to complete the work you will need the following materials:
- Shower stall assembled or separate tray and shower walls.
- Compact sanitary siphon with flexible hose.
- Elbow type pipe.
- Silicone moisture-resistant sealant.
- Mild detergent.
- Clean rags.
All the tools used to assemble a shower cabin are usually available in the homeowner's arsenal. To complete the work you will need:
- Spanners.
- Phillips screwdriver.
- Electric drill.
- Jigsaw.
- Proven construction level.
- Roulette or ruler.
- Adjustable plumbing wrench.
- Sharp knife.
Remember! Before starting work, carefully study the installation instructions for the device, prepare all the necessary tools and materials. Also, before installation, experienced plumbers recommend checking the evenness of the floor in the bathroom with a laser level, and also changing the pipes to modern plastic ones.
Pallet assembly
Before installing a shower stall, you need to carefully check the evenness of the floor surface in the bathroom using a building level. If small deviations within 1-2 centimeters can still be compensated for by the height of the legs, large fluctuations will lead to the pallet standing unsteadily.
The build then proceeds as follows:
Important! After completing the work, you need to check again that the assembled shower tray is installed absolutely level. If the check shows that it is installed crookedly, then you need to adjust the height of the legs again. If everything is in order, then you need to connect a siphon to the drain hole of the pan. When assembling the siphon, it is important not to forget to use sealant and silicone sealant to protect the joints from leaking.
Assembling the side walls
The walls of the booth are usually made of glass or fiberglass, they are fragile and quite large, so it is more convenient to install them with two people. The main difficulty of this operation is that the shower models are very different, so only the instructions will help determine the exact sequence of actions.
Typically, wizards act according to the following scheme:
Before you start using the shower stall you installed yourself, you need to check it for leaks, as well as for the correct connection of all communications. If the device is installed correctly, water should not flow out of the pan or seep between the panels when the doors are tightly closed.
Video instruction
Assembling a shower cabin with your own hands step by step, photo and video instructions
Every day more and more people decide to buy a shower cabin for their bathroom. And not without reason, because in our modern and fast pace of life, sometimes there is simply no time to take a bath. It turns out that the bath itself is standing idle and takes up space in the bathroom. But you can simply install a shower stall and also place a bunch of necessary things, such as a washing machine or beautiful bathroom furniture.
But if with a bathtub everything is simple, they brought it in and installed it, and you can take water procedures, then with a shower cabin the assembly and installation process is a little more complicated and longer. Many people are scared by this and after the purchase they turn to professionals who assemble shower cabins.
- Video instructions for assembling and installing a shower cabin, using the example of an Erlit shower cabin
On the one hand, this is correct, but if you have hands and head, then why overpay the extra money. After all, the price for assembling a shower cabin can be very high, it all depends on the size of your bathroom, and the size of your shower cabin .For example, if you have a large bathroom and a small shower stall, then it will be easy, simple and quick for the installers to assemble the product, and they won’t charge you a lot of money, but it will still be at least three thousand rubles for assembly and installation.
Therefore, in this instruction we will look at how to assemble a shower stall with your own hands, without resorting to the help of installers. Let us immediately draw your attention to the fact that almost all cabins, especially those made in China, are assembled in the same way. For example, assembling a shower cabin measuring 90 by 90 centimeters is not much different from assembling a shower cabin 80 by 80 centimeters, or 120 by 80 centimeters. Also by manufacturer, for example, assembling a Niagara shower cabin is not much different from assembling an Erlit shower cabin, or assembling a Water World shower cabin. There are, of course, exceptions and nuances, but the principle and algorithm of assembly and installation will be 80-90 percent similar.
- Video instructions for assembling a rectangular cabin
Very often you can see a shower stall in a showroom in some store, and many may get the impression that it is of poor quality, all rattling and wobbly. But this is not so, because Very often, exhibition samples are assembled of poor quality, and their purpose is to show the assembled shower cabin visually. In fact, 80 percent of its performance characteristics depend on the assembly of the shower cabin; how well you assemble it, how long will it last for you.
So, you bought a shower cabin. The shower cabin is assembled in a clean, renovated room. Tiles, both floor and wall, must be laid, by the way You don’t have to lay tiles behind the shower stall and save money.
Hot and cold water distribution,as well as sewerage must be done, Below in the pictures you can see a connection diagram for shower cabins measuring 90*90 centimeters
and 120*80 centimeters
Also, if there is a radio, lighting or hood in the shower stall, it is necessary to provide a grounded socket.
If you are assembling a shower cabin in winter, then it should reach room temperature. Therefore, after you bring the boxes into the apartment, open them and wait a couple of hours.
Necessary tools for assembling a shower cabin:
- Screwdriver or drill
- Silicone sealant
- A set of Phillips screwdrivers and bits for a screwdriver
- Wrench 14,17,19 or adjustable wrench
- Drill
- Level
- Roulette
- Pencil
The assembly of any shower cabin can be divided into several stages.
- Pallet assembly (if it is disassembled*)
- Pallet level adjustment
- Assembling the central panel (if it is not assembled*)
- Installing the rear walls and central panel (if disassembled)
- Assembly and installation of front windows and doors
- Installation of attachments and decorative equipment.
- Roof installation
- Connection to sewerage
*Some manufacturers supply shower trays, central panel, and back wall already assembled.
Before assembly, lay cardboard on the floor, this will help prevent the tray from being scratched and will also protect the glass of the shower cabin.. By the way, be careful with glass, do not place it on tiles, only on cardboard. You can assemble the shower cabin by one person, but it is much more convenient to invite an assistant, so the assembly will be faster and more convenient.
STAGE 1. Assembling the shower tray.
You can skip this step if you have an already assembled pallet; some manufacturers supply them already assembled. If so, then immediately proceed to the second stage.
- Place cardboard from pallet packaging on the bathroom floor
- Remove the shower tray and place it upside down
- Take out the metal frame, screw the posts and legs onto it. Try it on your shower tray. Screw it on with the self-tapping screws included in the kit. Tighten the nuts securely using wrenches.
Attention, do not mix up the length of the screws so as not to pierce the pallet. Also make sure that you screw the racks and the pallet frame into the mortgages that are located on the pallet.
4. Screw the fastening corners of the front panel around the perimeter of the pallet. Install the front panel.
5. Screw the drain to the pan.
The pallet is assembled.
Some people, for greater strength of the pallet, before installing the frame, cut out a blank from plywood along the radius of the pallet. Then they screw the pallet, the result is the following design: pallet - plywood - frame. It will be very reliable and durable. Or, for reinforcement, you can put bricks under the pallet, especially in those places where there is no frame. We recommend that you take these measures to increase the reliability of the pallet.
STAGE 2.Adjusting the tray to the level
1. Turn the pallet over on its legs and place it in the place where you will have it.
2.Using a vertical level and unscrewing the legs, adjust the tray so that it stands level.
You can also temporarily connect the drain to the sewer and try to fill the pan with water and see how the water flows out. If necessary, use the feet to adjust the slope of the water so that it can easily drain away.
STAGE 3. Assembling the central panel
If your kit comes with an assembled shower panel, then proceed to the next step.
1.Remove the central panel and components (Mixer, Radio, Injectors) from the box.
2. Screw on the nozzles and mixer.
For even greater reliability, you can lubricate the contact points of the injectors with silicone sealant.
3.Screw the faucet
4. Screw on the control panel.
5.Remove the protective film from the panel.
STAGE 4. Installation of rear walls and central pillar
You can skip this step if you have the back wall and stand assembled in the kit. It is better to do this work together.
1.Remove the back wall from the boxes (it doesn’t matter if it’s plastic or glass)
Look carefully at the holes, where is the top and where is the bottom, and also see which wall is right and which is left.
2.Install one wall onto the pallet, having previously coated the place of contact between the wall and the tray with silicone sealant, tighten it with bolts or self-tapping screws (depending on what you have in the kit). Sometimes it happens that the shower tray does not have holes for the bolts, then you will have to drill them, having first tried it on, placing the back walls and the central panel on pallet.
3. Carefully holding the back wall, place the central rack on the pallet.Also lubricate the places of contact with the pan and the wall with sealant, and screw them together (bolts or self-tapping screws, depending on the configuration)
4.By analogy, carefully place the second back wall on the pallet,Lubricate the contact points between the pan and the central panel with sealant and secure them with bolts or self-tapping screws. At this point, the back wall can already stand on its own; you don’t have to support it, but still be careful, as it doesn’t stand very securely.
5.STAGE Assembling and installing front windows and doors
This work is also best done together with an assistant.
1. Carefully remove the doors and glass from the boxes and place them vertically. Be sure to lay down cardboard so as not to break the glass, tempered glass has very fragile corners.Also take out the vertical, horizontal profiles, and rubber seals. Attention, immediately determine which horizontal profile is the top and which is the bottom, they are sometimes different in width. Usually the upper profile will be wider.
2.Place rubber seals on the side windows, lubricate them with sealant and insert them into the vertical profiles. Attention, you need to insert it evenly and carefully; if something doesn’t fit, don’t hit it with a hammer or pull the glass to break it. Take it out and try again. It often goes in very tightly.
3.Using long self-tapping screws and a screwdriver, connect and tighten the vertical and horizontal profiles. Carefully hold the horizontal profile and use a self-tapping screw to fit into the holes of the vertical profile. First, you can screw the horizontal profiles to one vertical half with glass, then to the other.
4. Screw the corners of the side window holder to the horizontal profile.
5. Place the front wall on the pallet together, having previously lubricated the contact area between the profile and the pallet with silicone sealant.
6. Secure the front and back walls together with self-tapping screws, you can also lubricate the place where the walls touch each other with silicone.
7. Screw the rollers onto the door, usually there are 8 of them in a set, 4 upper and 4 lower, do not mix them up.
8.Carefully install the doors into the guides on the horizontal profiles
9. Screw the door bumpers, which come complete with rollers, onto the horizontal profiles
10.Install the rubber seals and adjust the doors
6.STAGE Installation of attachments and decorative equipment
3.Install and screw the decorative covers that hide the fan and speaker
4.Install the roof and bolt it to the rear wall. There is no need to coat the contact points between the roof and the rear wall with silicone.
8.STAGE Connection to sewerage
1. Connect together all the hoses that are located at the back of the shower cabin, namely the hoses from the mixer to the overhead shower, hand shower. If you have hydromassage and foot massage, also connect these hoses to the mixer.
At this point, the assembly of your shower cabin can be considered complete. As you can see, assembling a corner shower cabin with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem. I hope our step-by-step assembly of a shower cabin will help you with this.
In this instruction we looked at the assembly of corner shower cabins with a deep tray, shower cabins with a low tray, as well as rectangular shower cabins are assembled in approximately the same way .
We also remind you that the stages of assembling showers can be slightly swapped, there is nothing wrong with that. And also, almost all shower cabins from almost all Chinese manufacturers are assembled almost the same way, with rare exceptions.
You can find original instructions and diagrams for assembling shower cabins from different specific manufacturers and specific models on our website in the corresponding instructions section.
Do you want to save space in your bathroom by installing a shower? The bathroom is a place of relaxation that should be practical and aesthetically pleasing, right? Are you planning to do all the installation work yourself, but are you confused about installing a shower tray and connecting plumbing?
We will show you how to cope with this task - the article discusses the important points that you will encounter during installation. We also paid attention to the features of pallets made of various materials, describing in detail the installation process of each option.
To help the novice plumber, we have selected photographic materials demonstrating important nuances, and a video describing in detail the assembly and installation of a compact shower cabin.
Manufacturers are ready to surprise the most sophisticated owner, offering many shapes, sizes and design options.
One of the first classifications is the division of models by shape. These can be square, oval, round, triangular, rectangular products.
It is worth choosing the shape and size of the tray that will distribute the space in the bathroom as ergonomically as possible with the appropriate level of convenience.
Image gallery
No. 4 - installation of ceramic and marble models
Ceramic and marble sanitary ware are trending today. Shower trays are no exception. Such products are durable and massive, so they do not require the use of legs or reinforcing elements.
The installation method is selected depending on the design of the pallet.
There are two options:
- Niche design. Many ceramic models have a niche in the tray cavity for installing a siphon and draining the sewer system. Such a tray simply needs to be connected to the sewer and installed directly on the bathroom floor without any additional steps. All that remains is to attach the walls of the shower stall.
- Monolithic option. In this case, in order to connect the drain hole to the siphon, you will need to build a pedestal. Inside it there will be space for connecting to the sewer.
The construction of the pedestal occurs as follows. We apply a layer of waterproofing to the area where the pedestal will be built.
To do this, you can use liquid rubber, roofing felt, polyurea or other composition. You must wait for complete polymerization if you used a liquid product.
Any modern version of liquid compounds can be used as waterproofing, which, after application, polymerize and create a waterproof layer
Inside the contour of the pallet we make brickwork with a height that would be enough for the normal location of the siphon. It is necessary to provide a cavity for the drainage system.
We connect the drain hole, the reverse end of which is connected to the outlet pipe. Apply a layer of cement mortar on top of the masonry.
DIY pallet construction
The process begins with preparing the future space for the shower stall.
Step 1. To begin with, the installation area is waterproofed, as in the previous paragraph. This will help protect the walls and floors from mold, mildew and dampness.
The process of making a pallet yourself includes the following steps:
The drain hole is immediately connected to the sewer system. The installation must be very tight, so you can use glue and sealants on all threaded connections.
When purchasing a drain for a homemade pallet, you cannot save money. Choose a quality product that fits in size and will last as long as possible.
Step 3. Now you need to lay the base (use brickwork or rough screed) after the waterproofing composition has dried.
We lay the walls using silicate or ordinary bricks. Before this, you need to put a metal mesh on the base to make the structure solid.
We treat the entire base of the pallet with waterproofing material. After it dries, we apply a layer of screed over the entire surface of the pallet to hide all the brickwork behind it.
It is important that the screed has a minimum slope towards the drain so that water does not accumulate after using the shower stall. After drying, apply the penultimate layer of waterproofing.
Step 4. Leveling the surface of the pallet. To do this, you can use a self-leveling mixture. We apply the final layer of waterproofing and cover the pallet with tiles. It can be mosaic or any other tile.
Tile or mosaic cladding
In many cases, side cladding is required to hide the mounting bases. One of the most convenient options for solving the problem is to use mosaic tiles on a plastic or glass base.
A layer of glue is applied to the base using a notched trowel. After pressing the tiles, excess adhesive must be removed immediately.
With the help of mosaic, you can cover any uneven surfaces, since it can be easily cut with construction scissors or a knife thanks to its paper base.
It doesn't matter whether you use tiles or mosaics, all seams need to be sealed. This especially makes sense when you've decided .
The space between the pallet and the floor can be closed using mosaic or tile cladding. Mosaic fragments are flexible and allow you to quickly and efficiently line the sides or the entire pallet if you build it yourself
When forming seams, use crosses. After facing, you need to grout the seams using waterproof grout and a rubber spatula. Then the remaining grout is removed and everything is wiped with a piece of cloth. After everything has dried, you need to wash the tiles.
Strengthening a steel or acrylic product
These solutions, especially acrylic ones, do not have a strong enough structure. Measures to increase strength come down to installing supporting elements, which can be bricks.
It is important that the pallet presses on all supports with equal force, otherwise one of them may simply push through the bottom
In this case, all supports in places of contact with the bottom must follow its shape. For this you can also use gaskets made of paronite or rubber.
Some complete ones have a greater height of the fence and tray, for the installation of which the ceiling height may not be sufficient. In this case, you need to make a excavation of the floor in order to install the tray and connect it to the drain.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
How to install a shower stall correctly:
Installing a shower tray with the right approach does not take much effort and does not require special training. If you follow the instructions, you will get a first-class installation of a monolithic pallet with the highest possible reliability.
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