Controlling an RGB LED from a computer via a USB port (virtual COM port). Controlling LED strip from a computer

Controlling RGB LED strip via arduino

Multi-color RGB LED strips have long been included in lighting fixtures. An RGB controller is used to control these devices. But, besides it, in recent years the Arduino board has been used.

Arduino - operating principle

Arduino board

An Arduino board is a device on which a programmable microcontroller is installed. Various sensors, controls or encoder are connected to it and, according to a given sketch (program), the board controls motors, LEDs and other actuators, including other Arduino boards via the SPI protocol. The device can be controlled via a remote control, Bluetooth module, HC-06, Wi-Fi, ESP or internet, and buttons. Some of the most popular boards are Arduino Nano and Arduino Uno, as well as Arduino Pro Mini - a device based on the ATmega 328 microcontroller

Appearance of Arduino Pro Mini Appearance of Arduino Uno Appearance of Arduino micro

Programming is carried out in the open source Arduino environment installed on a regular computer. Programs are downloaded via USB.

But the outputs are designed for a current of 20 - 40 mA with a voltage of 5 V. This is enough to power an RGB indicator LED or a 32x32 mm matrix LED module. For a more powerful load this is not enough.

To solve this problem in many projects you need to connect additional devices:

• Relay. In addition to individual relays with a supply voltage of 5V, there are entire assemblies with different numbers of contacts, as well as with built-in starters.
• Amplifiers based on bipolar transistors. The power of such devices is limited by the control current, but you can assemble a circuit from several elements or use a transistor assembly.
• Field-effect or MOSFET transistors. They can control loads with currents of several amperes and voltages up to 40 - 50 V. When connecting the mosfet to PWM and an electric motor or other inductive load, a protective diode is needed. When connecting to LEDs or LED lamps, this is not necessary.
• Expansion cards.

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Connecting LED strip to Arduino

connecting LED strip to Arduino

Expert opinion

Alexey Bartosh

Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.

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Arduino Nanos can control more than just electric motors. They are also used for LED strips. But since the output current and voltage of the board are not sufficient to directly connect a strip with LEDs to it, additional devices must be installed between the controller and the LED strip.

Via relay

Connection via relay

The relay is connected to the device via a digital output. The strip controlled with it has only two states - on and off. To control the red-blue-green ribbon, three relays are needed. The current that such a device can control is limited by the power of the coil (a low-power coil is not able to close large contacts). To connect more power, relay assemblies are used.

Connection using a transistor

A bipolar transistor can be used to amplify the output current and voltage. It is selected based on load current and voltage. The control current should not be higher than 20 mA, therefore it is supplied through a current-limiting resistance of 1 - 10 kOhm.

It is better to use an n-p-n transistor with a common emitter. For a higher gain, a circuit with several elements or a transistor assembly (amplifier microcircuit) is used.

In addition to bipolar ones, field-effect transistors are used to control the strips. Another name for these devices is MOS or MOSFET-transistor.

Such an element, unlike a bipolar one, is controlled not by current, but by voltage at the gate. This allows the low gate current to drive large load currents—up to tens of amperes.

The element is connected through a current-limiting resistance. In addition, it is sensitive to noise, so the controller output should be connected to ground with a 10 kOhm resistor.

Using expansion cards

Connecting Arduino using expansion boards

In addition to relays and transistors, ready-made blocks and expansion boards are used.

This could be Wi-Fi or Bluetooth, a motor control driver such as the L298N module, or an equalizer. They are designed to control loads of different power and voltage. Such devices are single-channel - they can only control a monochrome strip, and multi-channel - designed for RGB and RGBW devices, as well as strips with WS 2812 LEDs.

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Example program

Arduino and LED strip

Arduino boards are capable of controlling LED structures according to predefined programs. You can download their libraries from the official website, find them on the Internet, or write a new sketch (code) yourself. You can assemble such a device with your own hands.

Here are some options for using such systems:

• Lighting control. Using a light sensor, the light in the room turns on both immediately and with a gradual increase in brightness as the sun sets. Switching on can also be done via wi-fi, with integration into the “smart home” system or connection by telephone.
• Turning on the light on the stairs or in a long corridor. The LED lighting of each step separately looks very nice. When a motion sensor is connected to the board, its activation will cause a sequential, time-delayed switching on of the lighting of the steps or corridor, and turning off this element will lead to the reverse process.
• Color music. By applying an audio signal to the analog inputs through filters, the output will be a color and music installation.
• Computer modding. With the help of appropriate sensors and programs, the color of the LEDs can depend on the temperature or load of the processor or RAM. This device operates using the dmx 512 protocol.
• Controlling the speed of running lights using an encoder. Similar installations are assembled on WS 2811, WS 2812 and WS 2812B microcircuits.

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Video instruction

lampaexpert.ru

Connection diagram and LED strip control using Arduino

Arduino is a computer platform used in the construction of simple automation systems, a small board with a built-in microprocessor and RAM. Controlling an LED strip via Arduino is one way to use it.

The ATmega processor controls the sketch program, controlling numerous discrete pins, analog and digital inputs/outputs, and PWM controllers.

Operating principle of Arduino

The “heart” of the Arduino board is a microcontroller to which sensors and control elements are connected. A given program (called a “sketch”) allows you to control electric motors, LED strips and other lighting fixtures, and is even used to control another Arduino board via the SPI protocol. Control is carried out using a remote control, Bluetooth module or Wi-Fi network.

Programming is done using open source code on PC. You can use the USB connector to download control programs.

The principle of load control via Arduino

There are two types of ports on the Arduino board - digital and analog. The first has two states - “0” and “1” (logical zero and one). When an LED is connected to the board, it will light up in one state and not in another.

The analog input is essentially a PWM controller that registers signals with a frequency of about 500 Hz. Such signals are supplied to the controller with an adjustable duty cycle. The analog input allows you not only to turn on or off the controlled element, but also to change the current (voltage) value.

When connecting directly via a port, use weak LEDs and add a limiting resistor to them. A more powerful load will damage it. To organize control of LED strip and other lighting devices, use an electronic key (transistor).

Connecting to Arduino

Direct connection of the LED strip to Arduino is only appropriate when using weak LED diodes. For an LED strip, additional electrical elements must be installed between it and the board.

Via relay

Connect the relay to the Arduino board via digital output. The controlled strip can have one of two states - on or off. If you need to organize control of an RGB strip, you will need three relays.

The current controlled by this device is limited by the power of the coil. If the power is too low, the element will not be able to close large contacts. For the highest powers, use relay assemblies.

Using a bipolar transistor

If you need to increase the current or voltage at the output, connect a bipolar transistor. When choosing it, focus on the load current. The control current does not exceed 20 mA, so add a 1 - 10 kOhm resistor to limit the current through resistance.

Note! Ideally, you need to use an n-p-n type transistor based on a common emitter. If high gain is required, use a transistor assembly.

Using a field effect transistor

Instead of bipolar transistors, use field-effect transistors (abbreviated as MOS) to control LED strips. The difference between them is related to the control principle: bipolar ones change the current, field ones change the voltage at the gate. Thanks to this, a small gate current drives a large load (tens of amperes).

Be sure to add a current limiting resistor to the circuit. Due to the high sensitivity to noise, a 10 kOhm resistor is connected to the controller output.

Using expansion cards

If you don’t want to use relays and transistors, you can buy entire blocks - expansion boards. These include Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, equalizer, driver, etc., which are required to control loads of different powers and voltages. These can be either single-channel elements, which are suitable for monochrome tapes, or multi-channel (for controlling RGB color tapes).

Various programs

Libraries with programs for the Arduino board can be downloaded from the official website or found on the Internet on other information resources. If you have the skills, you can even write a sketch program (source code) yourself. To assemble an electrical circuit, no specific knowledge is required.

Application options for a system running Arduino:

1. Lighting. The presence of a sensor will allow you to set a program according to which the light in the room either appears immediately or gradually turns on parallel to sunset (with increasing brightness). To enable, you can use Wi-Fi, telephone and integration into the Smart Home system.
2. Lighting of the corridor and staircases. Arduino will allow you to organize the lighting of each part (for example, a step) separately. Add a motion sensor to the board so that the addressable LEDs light up sequentially depending on the location where the movement of the object is detected. If there is no movement, the diodes will go out.
3. Light music. Use filters and send audio signals to the analog input to create light music (equalizer) at the output.
4. Computer modernization. Some sensors will allow you to create a dependence of the color of the LEDs on the temperature of the processor, its load, and the load on RAM. The DMX 512 protocol is used.

Arduino chips expand the possibilities of using monochrome and multi-channel (RGB) LED strips. In addition to the merging of different colors, the formation of hundreds of thousands of shades, you can create unique effects - fading when the sun sets, periodically turning on/off when motion is detected, and much more.

Controlling an LED strip via Arduino - circuits for smoothly turning the lighting on and off

220.guru

Controlling an RGB LED from a computer via a USB port

Controlling an RGB LED from a computer

// To control the color of the LED we use 3 PWM ports

int bluePin = 9;

int greenPin = 10;

int redPin = 11;

// LED control commands. Colors and shutdown

String COLOR_RED = "red";

String COLOR_BLUE = "blue";

String COLOR_GREEN = "green";

String COLOR_OFF = "off";

// Initialize the serial port. Set the speed to 9600 bps

Serial.begin(9600);

// Initialize the outputs for our RGB LED

pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT);

pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT);

pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT);

// Read the color command from the PC into the color variable

// Check if data is available from the PC

int check = Serial.available();

// if there is, then read it as a string

if (check > 0) (

color = Serial.readString();

// Compare the received command with those described earlier and turn on the required color on the RGB LED

if (COLOR_RED.equalsIgnoreCase(color)) (

setColor(255, 0, 0);

) else if (COLOR_GREEN.equalsIgnoreCase(color)) (

setColor(0, 255, 0);

) else if (COLOR_BLUE.equalsIgnoreCase(color)) (

setColor(0, 0, 255);

) else if (COLOR_OFF.equalsIgnoreCase(color)) (

setColor(0, 0, 0);

) else if(check > 0)(

// If the command is not recognized, provide a hint to the user.

Serial.println("Send command is bad! Send please \"RED\" \"GREEN\" \"BLUE\" or \"OFF\"!");

// Function for turning on the required color on our RGB LED

void setColor(int red, int green, int blue) (

analogWrite(redPin, red);

analogWrite(greenPin, green);

analogWrite(bluePin, blue);

gearise.ru

Control of LED light sources via SPI and DMX protocols

This article is devoted to a special class of controllable LED light sources, which includes pixel LED strips “Running Fire”, controllable “flexible neon” and flash modules. They, like conventional multi-color RGB strips and modules, use three-color LEDs with red (Red), green (Green) and blue (Blue) glow colors.

The fundamental difference is that in addition to LEDs, control chips are installed directly on the strip or inside the modules. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to control not all LEDs simultaneously, but each LED or a group of several LEDs separately. Such a group is called a pixel. The number of LEDs per pixel depends on the type of tape. LED strips and modules with a 12V supply voltage usually have 3 RGB LEDs per pixel, with a 24V supply - 6 LEDs per pixel. In LED strips and modules with a supply voltage of 5V, each LED is usually controlled separately, and the control chip can be built into the housing of the RGB LED itself.

Most controllers allow you to set the length of the connected tape and select the sequence of RGB channels on the tape (RGB, RBG, BGR, etc.). This is necessary so that the color specified in the program matches the reproduced color, red is red, green is green and blue is blue.

The digital signal generated by the pixel controller is fed to a chip installed on a tape or in a flash module, which is a specialized microcontroller that receives the digital signal, decodes it and controls the brightness and color of the LEDs. These microcontrollers are often referred to as a "chip" or "driver". In this article, for a clear understanding, we will call them “drivers”.

The type of drivers used must be indicated in the parameters of LED strips or flash modules. Knowing this type is necessary in order to select and correctly configure the controller that will control the tape or modules.

Most controllers can handle multiple types of drivers. The list of drivers that a particular controller works with is given in its technical characteristics, as well as in the software for the controller, if it is used to create your own lighting programs. Since we are constantly working to improve software and controllers, the lists of compatible drivers are periodically updated.

The drivers used are divided into two fundamentally different classes. In accordance with this, LED strips, flash modules and “flexible neon” can be divided into two classes.

• The first class (more extensive and more often used) are drivers using the SPI digital interface (Serial Peripheral Interface),
• The second is drivers that use the DMX (Digital Multiplex) digital control protocol.

Both classes of drivers have their advantages, which we will discuss below. Let's take a closer look at both types of protocols used.

Using the SPI protocol.

A feature of LED strips and modules using the SPI control protocol is the sequential transmission of data from pixel to pixel along the entire length of the connected chain. The digital control sequence is generated by the controller and fed to the first pixel. The driver of this pixel “takes” the first received information for itself, and transmits the remaining digital sequence to the next pixel. The second driver also “cuts off” the initial part of the information and transfers the rest to the third chip, etc. With this transfer method, there is no need to assign addresses to the microcircuits. The address, in essence, is the location of the pixel in the overall sequence.

SPI control can be carried out using two signal wires (DATA and CLK) or only one (DATA). Tapes and modules with two control signals are characterized by more stable operation at high exchange rates and, accordingly, a lower information propagation delay and a higher update frequency. How many control wires are used in a particular case depends on the type of drivers on the LED strip or in the modules. Below is a table with the main parameters of SPI drivers used in Neoncolor equipment.

Driver type	TM1804	TM1812	WS2801	WS2811	WS2812	LPD6803	UCS1903	TLS3001
Use in equipment	Tapes/modules	Ribbons	Modules	Tapes/modules	Tapes/modules	Modules	Modules	Modules
Supply voltage of tapes and modules	12/24V	12V	5/12V	5/12/24V	5V	5/12/24V	5/12V	5V
Number of RGB LEDs per pixel for strips	1 or 3 pcs.	1, 2 or 3 pcs.	-	3 pcs.	1 PC.	-	-	-
Control signals	DATA	DATA	DATA,CLK	DATA	DATA	DATA,CLK	DATA	DATA
Chip design	In a separate building	In a separate building	In a separate building	In a separate building	Built into LED	In a separate building	In a separate building	In a separate building
Number of pixels served by the driver	1 (3 channels)	4 (12 channels)	1 (3 channels)	1 (3 channels)	1 (3 channels)	1 (3 channels)	1 (3 channels)	1 (3 channels)
Number of colors	16 million	16 million	16 million	16 million	16 million	32768	16 million	4096

With the advent of new drivers, the list of used microcircuits is growing.

Below are block diagrams of SPI tapes and their connection to the controller.

Fig.1. Block diagram of an SPI LED strip with two control lines (DATA and CLK)

Fig.2. Block diagram of an SPI LED strip with one control line (DATA)

Using the DMX protocol.

Distinctive features of LED strips and flash modules using DMX control are the parallel supply of a control signal to all modules. As can be seen in the block diagram shown in Fig. 3, the digital signal from the controller output is supplied simultaneously to all drivers.

Fig.3. Block diagram of a DMX LED strip (the ADR signal is used only when recording DMX channel addresses)

In such a system, the failure of one driver does not cause the failure of all subsequent pixels. True, in order for the information to reach exactly the driver for which it is intended, the drivers must have their own personal address. If the drivers in the daisy chain are swapped, the pixels in the program will also change, resulting in the lighting effect being disrupted.

Neoncolor equipment uses modern DMX drivers WS2821. To be fair, it is worth noting that these drivers use the DMX protocol, but do not use a full-fledged symmetrical interface, characteristic of DMX standard systems. The DATA+ signal is used to transmit the signal and DATA- is not used.

DMX tapes, modules and flexible neon are supplied with DMX addresses recorded during production. By default, the pixel addressing of each tape reel (a chain of modules or a reel of flexible neon) starts at address 1 and is numbered in order until the last pixel. If several coils or segments are connected into one line, you need to record the addresses again. To do this, first all connections of tape sections or modules are made, and then the addresses are recorded. In this case, addresses are automatically written sequentially to all connected pixels, starting from the one closest to the controller. This recording eliminates duplication of addresses and ensures correct execution of lighting effects.

To write addresses in DMX drivers, specialized address editors are used, for example, DMX-WS2821. Some pixel controllers, such as the DMX K-1000D or DMX K-8000D, have a built-in address editor.

When recording addresses, a wire designated ADR (ADI, ADIN) is used. After recording, when playing back lighting programs, the ADI driver input is not used. If your controller does not have a built-in address editor and does not have an output for connecting an ADI wire, this wire must be connected to the common GND wire, which will prevent it from being affected by external noise and interference.

To summarize the comparison of the SPI and DMX digital interfaces used to control LED pixels, here are the positive aspects of both.

Advantages of LED strips and modules using the SPI interface:

• there is no need to write down the address and, accordingly, purchase an address editor;
• there is no binding of the pixel to the installation location in the general circuit, i.e. rearranging modules or tape segments does not lead to disruption of the pattern of the reproduced program;
• the ability to connect more than 1024 pixels on one line, provided that this number is supported by the controller and with thoughtful and high-quality installation.

Advantages of LED strips, modules and “flexible neon” using the DMX interface:

• compatibility with equipment using the standard DMX512 control protocol, for example, DMX consoles or MADRIX system equipment.
• if one pixel fails, all subsequent pixels continue to work, the picture is not distorted.

When controlled from equipment operating using the standard DMX512 protocol, a maximum of 170 pixels can be connected to one DMX bus (170 pixels at 3 addresses, a total of 510 addresses). When using specialized pixel controllers for LED strips and flash modules, this number depends on the type of controller itself and is usually 1024 pixels per port.

At the end of the article, we will provide a diagram for connecting several “Running Fire” LED strips (Fig. 4.) and give several recommendations that will help you correctly design and install the system.

Fig.4. Connection of several LED strips.

• When connecting pixels, follow the data transfer direction indicated by the arrows printed on the tape or flash modules. Arrows should point away from the controller. You can also rely on the markings on the tape or modules. Contacts marked DI or DIN are input, connected to the controller output, contacts marked DO or DOUT are output, connected to the following pixels.
• Never apply voltage to the tape that exceeds the rated supply voltage; for example, connecting a tape with a supply voltage of 5V to a power source with an output voltage of 12V will inevitably lead to failure of the tape.
• Be careful when connecting. Applying supply voltage to the data input or an error with the polarity of connecting the power pins (“plus” and “minus” of the power supply) can lead to failure of the tape.
• Do not connect power to two or more tapes in series (5 or 2.5 m, depending on the type of tape). Tape and flexible neon are supplied on reels and always have the maximum permissible length. When connecting several tapes in series, the DATA and GND wires are connected from the output of one tape to the input of another, and power is supplied to each tape separately. If one powerful power supply is used to power several tapes, a separate cable must be run from it to each tape. It should be taken into account that the current consumption of the tape can reach large values ​​and this leads to a voltage drop on the supply wires. In addition to changing the glow color, such a drop can cause problems with pixel management. The cross-section of the power cable is calculated in the same way as for standard LED strips, based on the power consumption of the strip and the length of the cable. To calculate, you can use the wire cross-section calculator on our website. Often, instead of one powerful power source, it is more convenient to use separate low-power units for each tape, placing them in close proximity to the tape. With this connection, problems caused by voltage drops do not arise.
• When using high density, low voltage (5 volt) tapes, apply power to both ends of the tape. On such tapes, due to the high current consumption and voltage drop on the tape tracks, the color of the LEDs at the beginning and end of the tape may differ. Due to insufficient supply voltage at the end of the strip, LED control failures may occur. These effects are especially pronounced when turning on static white color on all LEDs. In this mode, the current consumed by the tape is maximum. On some controllers, to eliminate this effect, the brightness of the white light is automatically reduced when the controller is powered with a voltage of 5 volts.
• The voltage on the DATA and CLK control lines does not depend on the type of controller and its supply voltage. On all controllers it can only take two values ​​- 0 or 5 volts (TTL levels). It follows that it is not necessary to power the controller and the tape from power sources with the same output voltage. For example, you can use a tape with a power supply of 5 volts and a controller with a supply voltage of 12 volts. The main thing is that the output voltage of the tape power supply matches the connected tape, and the output voltage of the controller power supply matches the connected controller. If the supply voltages of the controller and the tape are the same, you can use one common power source.
• Use a shielded cable to transmit control signals from the controller to the tape. It is possible to use a cable for UTP (twisted pair) computer networks. The length of the control cable between the controller and the tape should not exceed 10 m. If it is necessary to transmit the control signal over a longer distance (up to 200 m), use TTL to RS485 signal converters on the controller side RS485 to TTL on the tape side. To transmit and receive signals via cable, you can use the Th3010-485 converter.
• When the number of pixels in the system is more than 1024, use controllers with multiple output ports. Distribute pixels evenly between controller ports.

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Connecting RGB LED strips to the controller and controlling the lead lighting with a remote control

The most modern lighting devices are LEDs: LED lamps, spotlights or modules. Although there are designs in which the elements are connected into a strip, these are LED strips. They are produced in different brightness and colors, there are also multi-color RGB tapes (R - red, G - green, B - blue), which allow you to change the color of the tape using an RGB controller.

Application of multi-color tape

RGB tape, thanks to the ability to change color and brightness, is used in many places and design solutions:

• Main or auxiliary lighting of the room. In combination with a central chandelier, it makes the illumination more uniform, and independently creates romantic lighting or, in combination with a remote control with the appropriate capabilities, provides color and musical effects;
• Provides continuous and full lighting in the bedroom, hallway and kitchen. You can switch modes manually, using a timer or a motion sensor;
• Store window lighting. The shade of light is chosen at the request of the designer;
• Computer modding. Color may vary depending on temperature or processor load;
• Phytolamp. This is a convenient, but unprofitable option - only two colors are used: red and blue.

RGB LED strip design

An LED strip is a flexible strip on which there are two, and on RGB LED strips there are four conductive strips. Between these strips there are groups of three series-connected LEDs and a current-limiting resistance. The circuit elements are used in the form of SMD - surface mounted device (surface mounted device). Such designs differ in the size of the LEDs, expressed in 0.1 mm.

Multi-color LED strips use SMD5050 or 5*5mm elements. Unlike smaller LEDs, these have three LEDs in one housing. In monochrome designs, these elements are connected in parallel, and in RGB designs, each pin is connected to its own conductive strip and has its own glow color. The exception is devices in which a PWM controller is installed in each element. Such devices have only two conductive strips. Control is carried out using a digital signal.

In addition to regular RGB strips, there are RGBW devices. In addition to multicolor ones, they also have white LEDs. With their help, increased brightness and more light leakage are achieved.

Color management

In multi-color stripes, the brightness of each color is controlled separately. This achieves a large number of shades. When all LEDs are turned on at full power, the strip begins to glow white.

An RGB controller is used for control. It can be equipped with different types of control panels:

• Built-in or remote on wires. It is used where constant color adjustment is not required, for example, in store windows;
• With IR remote control. The simplest and most inexpensive. The disadvantage is that such a remote control only works within line of sight;
• With radio remote control. Allows you to control the light even from the next room, but if you lose the remote control you have to change the device;
• With Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. Allows control using a mobile phone. Can be used in a smart home system.

In addition to adjusting the color of the entire strip at the same time, there are devices in which each LED is equipped with a PWM controller that regulates the color of its LED. In such designs, various color and light effects are possible: color shifts, running lights, star rain and others.

RGB controller

Controlling LED strip using Arduino

One way to control multicolor LED devices is with Arduino boards. Such boards contain a programmable microcontroller to which various sensors and output devices are connected. According to a given program, such devices control the color and brightness of the LEDs. They are equipped with analog outputs for controlling a regular RGB tape, and digital outputs for a tape with PWM controllers.

RGB strip power supply

The most common supply voltage = 12V, but there are strips for 24, 110 and 220V. They differ in the number of LEDs connected in series in a group.

Before connecting the RGB tape, you need to determine the required power of the power supply, taking into account the 20% margin. Such devices are powered from power supplies of different power:

• Up to 25W (2A). Such devices are similar to the power supply of a tablet or mobile phone; they are plugged into an outlet;
• Up to 100W (9A). These are devices in a plastic case. They can be hidden in a closet or in a niche in a plasterboard wall;
• Over 100W. These are devices in a metal case with built-in coolers. During installation, air access must be provided. They make noise during operation, so it is more advisable to use several low-power devices in the house instead of one powerful one.

Wire cross-section for connecting LED strips

When connecting such devices, the power supply must be located next to the tape. This is due to the voltage drop in the connected wires.

For example, to connect 5 meters of RGB SMD5050 tape, voltage 12V, power 14.4W/meter, total power 72W and current, according to the formula I=P/U=72W/12V=6A, a wire cross-section of 0.5 mm² is sufficient. But with a wire length of 10 meters, the voltage drop will be 4V, so you need to choose a cross-section of at least 4 mm².

Information. To connect devices located at a distance from each other, separate power supplies and RGB repeaters are used.

Connecting tapes in series is allowed for no more than 5 meters. With a longer length, the voltage drop on the current-carrying strips increases, the brightness decreases towards the end, as well as their heating. This will lead to device failure.

Connecting RGB strip

Connecting wires

For connection, the conductive strips have contact pads - extensions to which the wires are connected. They are connected in two ways: soldering or connectors.

Soldering wires

To connect the strip by soldering, flexible stranded wires with a cross-section of no more than 0.5 mm² are required. Larger wires may break the contact pads.

Only neutral flux is used. The procedure is as follows:

1. if the tape is covered with a layer of silicone, you need to remove it without damaging the conductive layer;
2. use a soldering iron with a power of no more than 15 W to tin the contact pads;
3. cut pieces of wires of the required size;
4. strip the insulation from the wire by 5 mm and tin it;
5. cut a piece of heat-shrinkable tube 25 mm long and put it on the tape;
6. solder the wires;
7. put the heat-shrinkable tube over the soldering area and heat it with a hair dryer or lighter.

Attention! Acid should not be used as it may destroy the conductive strips or cause a short circuit.

Connection with connectors

In addition to soldering, connections are made using special connectors. This is a less reliable, but simpler and faster method. In addition, when connecting or repairing a tape installed in a hard-to-reach place, this is the only way.

Connectors are produced in different shapes: straight, angled, T-shaped, with wires, for connecting to the network and without, for connecting strip sections to each other.

RGB connector

Tape repair

If individual sections of the strip fail, there is no need to replace the entire strip - it is enough to replace the damaged section. This is done using short, 10-15 mm, pieces of wire or connecting connectors.

Degree of water resistance

Tapes are produced with varying degrees of protection from adverse environmental influences:

• IP20/IP33. These are open lanes. They are used in dry places where there is no risk of splashing water. This is illumination of a suspended ceiling, computer keyboard or replacement of a table lamp;
• IP65. Covered with silicone only on the front side. Used to illuminate baseboards, work areas in the kitchen and other places where splashes are possible, but jets of water cannot enter;
• IP67/IP68. Completely covered with silicone. Used in any conditions, including in water: in swimming pools and aquariums.

Types of waterproof tape

Multicolor RGB LED strip is a new modern type of lighting that allows you to decorate your interior with a variety of lighting effects.

Video

elquanta.ru

WS2811: chip for driving three-color RGB LED | hardware

The Worldsemi WS2811 chip is a three-channel driver for controlling LEDs with a stabilized current, while providing 256 gradations of brightness for each channel (usually R red, G green, B blue, RGB). This article provides a translation of the datasheet "WS2811 Signal line 256 Gray level 3 channel Constant current LED drive IC".

The brightness of the LEDs connected to the WS2811 is controlled by a serial digital code generated by the microcontroller. Data is transmitted over just 1 wire. The digital control signal passes through the WS2811 IC, so multiple WS2811 ICs can be chained together in a long chain while still being able to control each LED in the chain individually.

[Features of the WS2811 chip]

The operating voltage of the output port is up to 12V. There is a built-in VDD supply voltage regulator, so you can power the microcircuit even from 24V if you connect a voltage suppressing resistor in series. Up to 256 brightness levels can be set, and the scanning frequency is no less than 400 Hz. There is a built-in unit for restoring the shape of the input data signal, which ensures that there is no accumulation of distortion on the signal line. There is a built-in reset unit that resets the chip when power is turned on and restored. The signal from one chip to another can be transmitted through one signal wire. Any two points between the receiver and the signal transmitter can be more than 10 m apart without the need for additional amplifiers. With an update rate of 30 fps (30 frames/sec), the cascading model at low speed allows you to connect at least 512 points in a chain, at high speed you can connect at least 1024 points. Data is transmitted at speeds of up to 400 and 800 Kbps (kilobits/sec).

WS2811 can be used to create decorative lighting using light emitting diodes (LEDs), as well as for video screens or information displays both indoors and outdoors.

[General Description of WS2811]

WS2811 has 3 output channels specifically for LED control. The chip has a built-in advanced digital data port with the ability to amplify the signal and restore its shape. Also built into the chip is a precise internal oscillator and a programmable constant output current source, designed for operating voltages up to 12V. To reduce supply voltage ripple, 3 output channels are designed with a delay turn-on function.

The microcircuit uses the NZR (Non-return-to-zero) data exchange mode. After a power-on reset, the DIN port receives data from the external controller, with the first IC collecting the first 24 bits of data and then passing it to the internal data latch, with the remaining data being restored to form using the recovery node and gain, and this remaining data is transmitted to the next chip in the chain through the DOUT port. After each chip passes, the number of bits in the total stream is reduced by 24 bits each time. The technology for automatically restoring the transmitted data signal is designed in such a way that the number of cascaded microcircuits is limited only by the transmission speed and the required refresh rate of LED brightness.

The data latched into the chip (24 bits) determines the duty cycle of the output ports OUTR, OUTG, OUTB, which control the LEDs - PWM (PWM, pulse width modulation) is used, so the brightness of each channel depends on the duty cycle of the pulses of the output ports. All chips in the chain synchronously send received data to each segment when a reset signal is received at the DIN input port. New data will then be received again after the reset signal has completed. Until a new reset signal arrives, the control signals of the OUTR, OUTG, OUTB ports remain unchanged. The chip transmits the available PWM data to the OUTR, OUTG, OUTB ports after receiving a low level reset signal, for another 50 µs.

Often the WS2811 chip is built directly into the housing of an RGB LED (this solution is used in popular LED strips), such an LED is called 5050 RGB LED.

Separately, the WS2811 chip is supplied in SOP8 and DIP8 packages.

The table below shows the purpose of the WS2811 legs.

№	Mnemonics	Output Function Description
1	OUTR	PWM output signal to control the brightness of the red LED (Red).
2	OUTG	PWM output signal to control the brightness of the green LED (Green).
3	OUTB	PWM output signal to control the brightness of the Blue LED.
4	GND	Ground, common wire, minus power.
5	DOUT	Data signal output (for cascading chips).
6	DIN	Data signal input.
7	SET	Setting the low-speed mode of operation of the microcircuit (when SET is connected to VDD) or high-speed mode (when the SET pin is not connected anywhere).
8	VDD	Plus supply voltage.

Parameter	Mnemonics	Meaning	Unit change
Supply voltage	VDD	+6.0 .. +7.0	V
Output voltage	VOUT	12	V
Input voltage	VI	-0.5 .. VDD+0.5	V
Working temperature	Topt	-25 .. +85	oC
Storage temperature	Tstg	-55 .. +150	oC

Note: If the pin voltages exceed the maximum value, this may cause irreversible damage to the microcircuit.

[Electrical Specifications]

[Dynamic characteristics]

TA = -20 .. +70oC, VDD = 4.5 .. 5.5V, VSS = 0V, unless otherwise specified.

Parameter	Mnemonics	Condition	MIN	NOM	MAX	Unit change
Operating frequency	Fosc1	-	-	400	-	KHz
	Fosc2	-	-	800	-	KHz
Transmission delay (signal propagation time)	tPLZ	CL=15 pF, DIN->DOUT, RL=10 kOhm	-	-	300	ns
Fall time	tTHZ	CL=300 pF, OUTR/OUTG/OUTB	-	-	120	mks
Data transfer rate	FMAX	Duty ratio 50%	400	-	-	kbit/s
Input capacitance	C.I.	-	-	-	15	pF

[Time intervals for Low Speed ​​mode]

This table shows the time intervals that encode data bits 0 and 1, and the reset signal.

Note: for high speed mode, all time intervals are reduced by 2 times, but the reset time remains unchanged.

The diagrams explain the principles of data encoding and transmission.

The microcontroller sends data to chips D1, D2, D3 and D4. The chips are connected in a chain, and the data that passes through them (DIN -> DOUT) is restored and amplified. In this case, each time 24 bits of data are cut off from the data sequence, which are intended specifically for this microcircuit, after passing through the data array for all microcircuits, a reset signal RES follows (a log 0 pulse with a duration of at least 50 μs). After this, the received brightness level (24 bits per chip) is transmitted to the PWM outputs OUTR, OUTG, OUTB. This is how the 24-bit sequence is composed, which encodes the brightness levels of the OUTR, OUTG, OUTB channels of the microcircuit (the most significant MSB bit comes first):

R7

R6

R5

R4

R3

R2

R1

R0

G7

G6

G5

G4

G3

G2

G1

G0

B7

B6

B5

B4

B3

B2

B1

B0

[Standard connection circuits]

In this example, each channel in the RGB LED is driven by a constant current of 18.5 mA, and the LED brightness is determined by the PWM duty cycle. By stabilizing the current when the supply voltage decreases, the LEDs maintain their brightness and color temperature. To ensure that supply voltage ripples do not affect the operation of the microcircuit, it is recommended to use a filter chain consisting of a series resistor with a nominal value of more than 100 Ohms and a blocking capacitor with a capacity of about 0.1 μF. To prevent signal reflections and to allow hot wiring, a 33 ohm series resistor must be included in the signal circuit.

As in the previous example, the LEDs are driven by a stabilized current of 18.5 mA. R1 is used for normal operation of the internal voltage stabilizer of the microcircuit; its nominal value should be 2.7 kOhm. Typically, a red LED always drops less voltage at the same current than LEDs of other colors, and the red LED glows brighter. Therefore, the OUTR channel must have an additional resistor RR, the resistance of which can be calculated using the formula:

12 - (3 * VLEDR)RR = ------------- kOhm 18.5

In this formula, VLEDR is equal to the voltage drop across one LED of the red group (usually equal to 1.8V .. 2V).

[How the RGB LED strip works]

The photo shows a regular waterproof RGB LED strip, built on the basis of WS2811 chip technology (WS2811 waterproof LED Strip) 5 meters long, model GE60RGB2811C. Typically, such tape is supplied wound on a reel, along with fasteners for wall mounting. To power the tape, you need a stabilized voltage source of 5V 18A (power consumption 18 W per 1 meter). At the ends of the tape there are male input connectors (the digital signal comes in here and power must be connected) and female output (the digital signal comes out from here and power can also be connected here), so the tapes can be connected to each other to increase the total length.

The tape is assembled on a thin PCB tape (flexible double-sided printed circuit board) and is designed so that the tape can be cut anywhere to obtain the desired size.

To control the RGB LED strip, special controllers are used, which are programmed from a computer via USB or using an SD card. The controller can set a complex automatic algorithm for controlling the tape, some can even work as color music - using the built-in microphone they analyze the sound and control the color of the tape in time with the melody.

Lighting control from a smartphone- This is the last step in intelligent “smart home” systems after control using remote controls and panels. Let's figure out why this function is needed and how it works.

Why do you need to control the light via your phone?

We are used to turning lights on and off using regular switches. Smart home systems have long used more “advanced” methods - remote controls and panels. They allow you to control lighting throughout the entire house from one point. With the advent of the light control function via Wi-Fi, owners of houses and apartments can control lamps outside the home.

There are several reasons to control the light via a smartphone:

• You can use your own smartphone inside the house without having to search for the remote control;
• You can create a “presence effect” in the house while being outside it - for security purposes;
• You can customize the desired lighting scenario when leaving work to come to an illuminated home.

This function is especially convenient for those who have mobility restrictions due to health conditions. This will also provide comfort to parents - for example, when a small child wakes up at night and is afraid of the dark.

How it works?

Lighting control in this scheme is performed via a Wi-Fi signal. To set up light control via a smartphone, you will need the following devices:

1. The smartphone itself, into which a special application is installed;
2. Actuator - lamps are connected to it;
3. Wi-Fi router that transfers data between a smartphone and an actuator.

It's simple. The user sets a command through an application on a smartphone - turn the light on or off, change the brightness, color temperature, etc. The signal via Wi-Fi is received by the actuator, which implements the user command.

If almost everyone has a smartphone and a router, then the actuator must be purchased separately. As a rule, controllers become such devices. They are selected according to the type of lighting fixtures used in the room. For example, it is designed to control color RGB lighting based on LED strips. It comes with a remote control included, and can be operated both from the remote control and from a smartphone or tablet on which the application is installed.

A very interesting controller-gateway is a gateway between the Wi-Fi network and the RF signal for controlling Arlight SMART series controllers.

If you are interested in creating such a lighting system in your own home or office,... We will help you calculate and select all the components necessary to create lighting controlled via a Wi-Fi signal.

An LED strip is a device that produces a luminous flux and operates on the basis of a semiconductor device - an LED. They appeared not so long ago, but even in such a short period of time they have found wide application in organizing lighting, and sometimes as main lighting. Due to their good tightness, they can be used, depending on the type, for both external and internal lighting. Not all brands of LED strip can be used for lighting outdoors and in wet rooms, but only those that are hermetically sealed with silicone.

LED strips are produced by manufacturers five meters in length and can contain, most often, from 60 to 120 diodes per meter emitting light. The width of the tape is only 8 mm, and the height is no more than 3 mm. This allows designers to choose an LED strip and install it even in the most hard-to-reach places, in furniture, at the ends of plasterboard ceilings, and for motorists in any accessible place where it is possible to bring out two wires for power. Strips are divided into two types of LEDs:

1. Single-chip;
2. Multichip.

Multi-chip LEDs often come in so-called RGB strips, which can illuminate not just one color, but several. R - red, G - green, B - blue. It is also possible to combine these colors, obtaining additional colors and shades. If you do this manually, it is better to use toggle switches or switches, but this is not entirely convenient. There are special electronic microcontrollers for adjustment. Such a control controller is often equipped with a remote control, with which you can change not only the lighting power, but also the transition from the cold spectrum to the warm one. With a remote control, you can easily perform all manipulations.

Correct power supply of LEDs is possible only from a small constant voltage, and strips based on them are designed for a voltage of 12 volts. The current in the LED strip circuit will depend on:

1. Lengths;
2. The power of one LED or one meter of strip.

Therefore, you need to choose a power supply for the entire lighting installation knowing these basic parameters.

Control of LED strip and LED lamps

In order to control the LED strip, and more specifically its brightness, there are special electronic devices, dimmers or light controllers. The dimmer is connected after the power supply or, in some cases, can be installed in it.

LED strip lighting can be controlled using the following dimming devices:

• Rotary mechanical regulator;
• Push-button LED control;
• Touch control of LEDs, often they have a convenient liquid crystal display;
• With control panel (from infrared signal and radio signal);
• Via electronic devices via Wi-Fi.

All such dimming devices operate on the principle of adjusting current or using rather complex pulse width modulation (PWM). PWM-based devices are quite compact and stable. It is worth noting that to create a multi-color effects system, two- and three-channel dimmers are often used with a control panel.

LED lamps and compact diode-based lamps can be divided into adjustable brightness of the emitted light flux (dimmable) and non-adjustable (non-dimmable). Controllable LED luminaires can be adjusted using conventional dimmers designed for incandescent lamps. In order to choose the right one, there must be special markings on the packaging.

A good example for such an adjustable source of high-quality luminous flux is the Saturn LED lamp. It is manufactured and offered in pairs with a remote control (RC) and many convenient functions for adjusting the brightness and warmth of the emitted light. The Saturn controlled LED lamp is connected to a 220 volt network and both the driver and the control electronic dimmer are already installed in it. This type of lamp is often used as a chandelier or controllable LED lamp. By the way, even for LED TVs and large panels installed for advertising, an LED screen control system is also used, based on the same only more complex electronic adjustment.

How to solder LED strip correctly

In order to properly solder the parts of the LED strip, you need to remember that it can only be cut in the special places indicated on it. When soldering tape, you should use a low-power soldering iron of no more than 40 W. The contacts of the connected areas must be thoroughly cleaned of silicone or varnish and tinned with a soldering iron.

Naturally, all this work is performed with the LED strip completely disconnected from the power supply, or the power supply from the 220 volt network. You cannot connect a multi-chip RGB strip and a strip with single-chip LEDs installed. LED strips must be identical in LED structure, and it is advisable to choose them correctly based on the power consumption per meter of its length. Soldering is done using tinned stranded copper wires. The cross section should be selected according to the current or power of the entire tape. After soldering, it is recommended to fill the joints with glue or silicone to seal and protect against short circuits.

How to check if the LED in a flashlight is working properly

In order to check why the flashlight does not light up, you should immediately start with the voltage source (battery or batteries). If the replaceable sources of electric current are working properly, but the LED flashlight still does not work, you need to check the source of the economical luminous flux itself - the LED. To do this you will need a multimeter or any ohmmeter.

An LED is an electronic semiconductor device that, like a regular diode, conducts current in only one direction. Therefore, touching the probes of a multimeter to the LED contacts in one direction, it will show low resistance and may even slightly emit light, and in the opposite direction it will show a high resistance of several hundred kOhms. If the test results show that the diode shows low resistance in both directions, then it is broken, if infinity in both directions, then this indicates a break inside the LED or the destruction of its semiconductor junction. This means the LED is faulty and needs to be replaced. LED recycling is not necessary, unlike gas-discharge light sources.

Before purchasing an LED strip or a dimmer for it, as well as an adjustable LED lamp, you should consult with the seller or sales manager about the compatibility of the dimmer and the light source.

Video control of LED strip from your phone

SMART equipment for RGB control is the basis of your comfort
RGB and RGBW light sources allow you to add bright colors and dynamics to ordinary lighting, diversify the atmosphere in the room and create a mood that suits the occasion.

The next update to the SMART series will help organize convenient and reliable control of multicolor light sources. Among the new products there is everything to create colored dynamic lighting for projects of various sizes.

The universal RGB controller SMART-K8-RGB is designed to control multicolor, two-color and dimmable LED lights with an operating voltage of 12-24 V. Increased power (6 A per channel) allows it to be used in large projects. The model has built-in dynamic effects: sequential color switching, smooth color change.
The four-channel SMART-K13-SYNC controller allows you not only to control an RGBW LED strip, but also to transmit the signal via an RF channel to similar controllers at a distance of up to 15 meters. In this case, the total length of the system can reach 100 meters. The system can be supplemented with a SMART-K10-RF converter, which will allow you to control the lighting system from smartphones via WiFi.

The four-channel decoder SMART-K15-DMX converts the signal according to the digital standard DMX512 into a PWM signal for controlling LED strips and other light sources with a supply voltage of 12, 24 and 36 V. Allows you to set the desired DMX address. The model can be used as a standalone DIM, RGB, RGBW controller.
In cases where the controller power is not enough to connect the required length of LED strip, amplifiers are installed in the system. The SMART series has been replenished with four-channel amplifiers SMART-RGBW-C2 (load current 4x350mA) and SMART-RGBW-C3 (load current 4x700mA), as well as an RGBW amplifier for DIN rail SMART-RGBW-DIN.

For convenient control of three- and four-channel controllers, the universal radio remote control SMART-R21-MULTI and the built-in TOUCH panel Sens SMART-P22-RGBW are ideal.
The remote control has a touch ring for precise adjustment of the color of the glow and intuitive buttons for controlling brightness, choosing a color, saving two user modes, launching dynamic programs and changing their speed. Supports control in one light zone.

The built-in touch panel SMART-P22-RGBW with a built-in master controller has a modern, sleek design and has a switchable sound. The choice of glow color is carried out using a sensitive touch strip. The presented model can control an unlimited number of controllers, and can also be controlled from the remote control.
OPTOLEDS.RU - High-quality LED equipment and related materials for creating lighting systems of various levels of complexity.
▪️ Development of LED solutions individually, to order
▫️ Production quality control
▪️ Wide range of products - more than 5000 current items
▫️ Warehouse program - more than 80% of items are constantly in stock
▪️ Device compatibility and convenient product selection
▫️ Technical support - instructions, connection diagrams, 3D models, IES files
▪️ Technical support and warranty service
▫️ Research and quality control department: testing, testing, incoming control
▪️ Photometric laboratory for measuring the parameters of lighting devices

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Lighting control - SMART series

New SMART models of controllers, remote controls and amplifiers have appeared in the assortment. Thus, the capabilities of the SMART line have expanded significantly, and on its basis it is possible to design lighting control systems of varying complexity. The collection of MULTI series remote controls for controlling multiple light sources DIM/MIX/RGB/RGBW has been significantly expanded. They are now available in different designs and body colors.

023027 Remote control SMART-R6-DIM (1 zone, 2.4G)
023474 Remote control SMART-R23-DIM White (4 zones, 2.4G)
023478 Remote control SMART-R27-RGBW White (1 zone, 2.4G)
023476 Remote control SMART-R25-RGBW White (4 zones, 2.4G)
022667 Remote control SMART-R16-MULTI (4 zones, 2.4G)
023471 Remote control SMART-R20-MULTI White (4 zones, 2.4G)
Among the new products, special attention should be paid to two new controllers. The single-channel dimmer is designed to control a single-color LED strip and allows you to link up to 10 remote controls and panels.

023829 Amplifier SMART-DIM (12-24V, 1x8A)
The five-channel RGBW-CCT controller allows you to simultaneously control the light color and color temperature. When used together with MULTI series remote controls, the user receives only 2 devices with almost unlimited capabilities. Built-in lighting control programs will help you choose the right scenario for the right mood.

023822 Controller SMART-K14-RGB-WW/DW (12-24V, 5x4A)
024184 Dimmer SMART-D3-DIM (12-24V, 8A)
It is also worth noting the appearance of a series of amplifiers in the SMART line. With their help, you can connect more lighting sources to one controller, significantly enhancing its signal. The amplifiers are available in three models: DIM, RGB and RGBW to cover the entire SMART product line.

023830 Amplifier SMART-RGB (12-24V, 3x6A)
023831 Amplifier SMART-RGBW (12-24V, 4x5A)

SMART – it couldn’t be simpler!
Store: Optomleds.ru

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SMART Series: Light control in a new way
The assortment of our online store now includes new models from the SMART series, designed for organizing control systems for main or decorative lighting of varying complexity.

Remote control R7-DIM
A 4-zone radio remote control with a laconic design and convenient housing is used to control single-color light sources. The device has a memory function to record the selected backlight mode.

023028 Remote control SMART-R7-DIM (4 zones, 2.4G)
Remote controls R9 and R14
Push-button radio remote controls are capable of controlling single-color or multi-color LED strips in one zone. The touch ring on the body allows you to select the color or brightness of the light. Devices can control an unlimited number of controllers.

023032 Remote control SMART-R9-DIM (1 zone, 2.4G)
022671 Remote control SMART-R14-RGBW (1 zone, 2.4G)
Remote controls R22, R24, R26 and R28
Stylish radio remote controls, the body of which is made of special soft Soft Touch plastic with black light, allow you to control single-color or RGBW light sources through an unlimited number of controllers.
R22-MULTI is a unique model designed to control DIM/MIX/RGB/RGBW LED strips. The device has 4 control zones and 2 memory slots for recording user settings. Using the touch ring, you can easily select the desired color or brightness of the glow.

023473 Remote control SMART-R22-MULTI Black (4 zones, 2.4G)

R24-DIM – designed to control single-color light sources. The model also has 4 control zones. Up to 4 favorite lighting modes are recorded in the device’s memory. Special buttons on the remote control allow you to select brightness presets.

023475 Remote control SMART-R24-DIM Black (4 zones, 2.4G)

R26-RGBW and R28-RGBW - popular versions of remote controls are used to control multicolor LED strips and other light sources. Models differ in the number of control zones and memory slots: R28 has 4 memory slots and operates in one zone, R26 controls lighting in 4 zones and has 2 memory slots.

023477 Remote control SMART-R26-RGBW Black (4 zones, 2.4G)
023479 Remote control SMART-R28-RGBW Black (1 zone, 2.4G)
Using the precise touch ring, you can select the color of the glow. The functionality of the buttons allows you to adjust color saturation, change dynamic scenes and backlight mode.
P6-RGBW panel
The built-in touch panel is capable of controlling RGBW LED light sources. The touch circle allows for convenient and precise lighting adjustment. The peculiarity of the model is that it can work as an independent controller, and can also be controlled via radio remote controls: up to 10 remote controls or other panels can be connected to the device.

023055 Sens panel SMART-P6-RGBW (5-24V, 2.4G)
P3-DIM panel
The built-in panel with a rotary rotator is designed to control single-color light sources. A device with a dimming function is capable of operating as an independent dimmer with full compatibility with all SMART series remote controls and panels of similar functionality. The modern and simple design of the model allows it to be used to organize a lighting control system in any interior.

023030 Rotary panel SMART-P3-DIM (5-24V, 2.4G)
Converter K10-RF
The new model is used for remote control of SMART series controllers. The converter converts the Wi-Fi input signal from mobile devices into an RF signal. The device also allows you to control dynamic lighting effects. Thanks to the built-in memory, you can record the selected lighting mode.

023063 Controller SMART-K10-RF (5-24V, WiFi)
New products from the SMART series will allow you to create the best LED lighting control system in your home.
2 years warranty for all new products in the SMART series.
Store: Optomleds.ru
We have special terms of cooperation for designers, architects, decorators and design organizations.

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Wireless light control
In 2017, no one will be surprised by wireless control, which is performed using a remote control using infrared radiation or radio frequencies. Can be controlled using mobile devices via Wi-Fi networks and Bluetooth personal networks. All control devices need to be recharged or batteries replaced. But what do you say if you no longer have to recharge the device or change batteries and dig into walls to lay wires for the signal receiver? Thanks to EnOcean technology this is possible!

The main advantages of EnOcean technology are: obtaining electricity from the environment to operate devices and consuming a minimum level of electricity. Thanks to thermal and mechanical energy converters, radio signal devices do not require power from the network or batteries. The use of the EnOcean system, based on wireless control, significantly reduces costs during construction or renovation, and also increases energy savings. In addition, lighting devices with EnOcean technology have flexibility in their installation.
Control panel SR-EN9001-RF-UP White
Thanks to its modern and, at the same time, laconic design, the model fits harmoniously into any interior. Using the panel, you can easily control a single-color LED strip: you can turn it on/off and adjust its brightness.

019038 SR-EN9001-RF-UP White (DIM, 1 zone)
Models do not require connection to an electrical outlet or installation of batteries. By pressing the key, kinetic energy is converted into electricity, which is enough to transmit a radio signal to the controller. This technology ensures reliable operation of devices for a long period of time. To install the panels, you do not need to perform complex installation with finishing the walls and laying wires.
Controller SR-EN9101Р
The controller is used to control LED strips and modules. A device with 1 control channel interacts with the control panel via a radio signal, which operates at a distance of up to 30 m. This feature of the controller allows you to organize a remote light control system in a fairly large room.

019039 SR-EN9101P (12-36V, 240-720W)
The SR-EN series of control panels and controllers with EnOcean technology are easy to implement into existing projects. Models can be placed almost anywhere without developing projects and performing installation work on cable connections.
Store: Optomleds.ru
We have special terms of cooperation for designers, architects, decorators and design organizations.

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You need a ready-made solution (backlight kit) with the ability to save 6 backlight scenarios in the controller and then switch them
backlighting includes: 6 zones (ceiling, cornice, floor, column...) the controller must control separately 6 ZONES of RGB backlighting, RGB or RGB+W LED strips are used (14.4w/meter) the length of the LED strip of 5 backlighting zones is 7 meters for each zone, 1 zone - 2.6 meters, additional illumination section for zone 6 - 16 meters of tape Task: each scenario consists of certain backlight zones and the colors of their glow. The user subsequently selects only one of the scenarios. Those. roughly 6 buttons on the remote control to switch backlight scenarios. The possibility of control from a PC or smartphone is interesting, the option is at least from buttons on the controller or remote control

Lighting scenario No. 1:

Lighting scenario No. 2:
Illumination zone No. 3 - Blue color
Illumination zone No. 1 - Green color
Illumination zone No. 2 - Orange color

Other groups should be turned off.

Lighting scenario No. 3:
Illumination zone No. 3 - Dark blue color
Illumination zone No. 4 - Red
Illumination zone No. 6 - White color
Other groups should be turned off.

Lighting scenario No. 4:
Illumination zone No. 3 - Dark blue color
Illumination zone No. 4 - Red color
Illumination zone No. 5 - Orange color
Other groups should be turned off.

Lighting scenario No. 5:
Illumination zone No. 2 - Orange color



Other groups should be turned off.

Lighting scenario No. 6:
Illumination zone No. 3 - Yellow color
Illumination zone No. 1 - Blue color
Illumination zone No. 2 - Green color
Illumination zone No. 6 - Blue color
Other groups should be turned off.

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Professional lighting control
Controllers, dimmers with remote control (1-8 zones)

Controllers, dimmers with remote control (1-4 zones)

WiFi-RF converter

MIX controllers and dimmers

Dimmer EnOcean, KNX

Dimmer with 0-10V control

DMX512 controllers and dimmers

DMX512 decoder

DALI controllers and dimmers

Dimmers, switches with sensors

Signal amplifier

Dimmer with current output

RGB Controllers with Remote Control

RGB(W) Amplifiers

Dimmer with remote control

Dimmer with 0-10V control

DMX 512 control

DALI control

SR Series LED Lighting Control Systems
SR LUX light control systems in a house or apartment (based on the popular PWM control method):
– Dimmers for controlling the brightness of LED strips;
– Controllers for controlling multicolor RGB/RGBW LED strips;
SR LUX systems for professional use:
– DALI protocol, dimmers and control panels;
– DMX protocol, decoders and controllers;
The carefully thought-out SR system provides a wide range of control options:
– Buttons and switches;
– Stylish remote controls;
– Built-in panels;
In the SR series, almost all control devices are interchangeable, the system is easily updated,
Control panels can be easily replaced in case of loss or damage.
The warranty on any SR series equipment is 3 years.
Projects are provided with an extended 5 year warranty.
Series 1009 PWM:
Remotes, dimmers, controllers, panels, special equipment

Series 2501 PWM:
Remotes, dimmers and controllers, panels

DMX:
Decoders, current decoders and controllers, panels

DALI:
Dimmers, panels

Ready-made PWM kits:
Dimmers with sensor, switches with sensor

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Wi-Fi RGB controller for controlling LED RGB lamps, strips, rulers using devices on iOS and Android platforms
Controlling multi-color RGB lighting has become even easier with the intuitive interface of the “Magic Color” program, you don’t have to search throughout the house for a lighting control panel, control the lighting using your phone, adjust the brightness and color of the glow. Create a unique atmosphere at home for a romantic dinner or use the light as a night light. You can choose any color of LED lighting for your interior that matches your mood: orange, yellow, white, pink, etc. WiFi controller power at voltage: 12V - 144W, 24V - 288W.

Short press of the reset button: change the scenario, 20 options. Long press (more than 20 seconds): reset settings.
Wifi SSID for connection "LEDnetXXXXXXXXXX" Password: "88888888" IP: 192.168.10.1
If you decide to install lighting equipped with wifi controllers in different rooms, then you can easily control all the lighting using just one application. You can control both each controller individually and all lighting at once.
WiFi RGB controller is designed to control multi-color LED products with an operating voltage of DC 7.5-24V, with support for PWM controllers (external control), example: (4 wires at the output)

Connection diagrams:

If the length of the backlight or the controller power is not enough for all the lamps, you will need an RGB amplifier (rgb amplifier) ​​+ separate power supply to it:

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72 Light Bulbs
Initially, we had the idea to hang ordinary incandescent lamps unchanged on the ceiling and control them using a relay bank. But several experiments proved that this was easier said than done. The array trick we wanted to implement turned out to be practically impossible. In order to make a 6x12 array, we needed to connect 72 lamps individually, which leads to a huge number of wires and other problems.
There are several other serious problems associated with conventional incandescent light bulbs. First of all, they are terribly inefficient; the power consumption of lighting from 72 lamps (even with a minimum brightness of 15-20 watts per lamp) will be very large. Secondly, there is no way to get brightness control, which limits the amount of cool visual effects you can achieve in this project. Finally, working with high voltage on the ceiling made us pretty nervous.
In the end we settled on LEDs. They have a low supply voltage, relatively low power consumption, and their brightness can be adjusted using pulse width modulation (hereinafter simply PWM). The only problem with the LEDs was their size, they are small so they don't look very interesting. Hanging from the ceiling, they do not have enough weight to pull the wire out and hang straight because the wire tends to spiral as it was wound in the spool. We experimented with different ways to render the LEDs, mounting the LEDs in plastic and glue to make them more visually appealing. But at the core of the idea, we really wanted them to look like regular light bulbs. Our final solution was to take 72 regular incandescent light bulbs, remove the innards, and install LED inside.

Regular light bulbs are not really designed to be disassembled, so this proved to be quite a complex and specific task. To speed up the process, I enlisted the help of several colleagues, and we began to pull the ceramic insulators out of all the lamps. I was careful not to damage the frosted coating on the glass bulb because I hoped the glass coating would help diffuse the LED light (if I damaged it, the bulbs would show bright glare, which we really didn't want). When the work of removing the insides was completed, I began installing the LED filling. An LED with a soldered wire was placed in each bulb; the wire was fixed to the base with a drop of hot glue.
Afterwards, all lamps were tested by simply connecting to a battery. My next challenge was to figure out how to individually control 72 LEDs with minimal headaches and how this was even possible...
Everything's under control
There are many ways to control a whole bunch of LEDs. For example, multiplexing. This is a good way to save GPIO pins, but to multiplex 72 LEDs you still need 9 pins. To control the project, I used the Arduino Pro Mini controller, but when used alone, there were not enough free contacts left to connect sensors and other various fun things. Using a pair of shift registers would be a decent way to control all the LEDs individually, but that's if all I wanted to do was turn the LEDs on or off. But I really wanted to control the brightness of the LEDs.

In the end, the best tool for expanding the architecture turned out to be the TLC5940 PWC driver. The TLC5940 driver is capable of managing 16 channels with 12-bit PWM! And this is 4096 brightness levels! The great thing is that these drivers can be wired together in series and still have the same number of IO pins to drive 16 LEDs from one driver, so I can easily build a circuit to drive 72 LEDs. I simply soldered together 5 TLC5940 breakout boards in a line and combined them with their own PWM channel.
All mathematical and graphical calculations in this project are performed by the Arduino Pro Mini controller. This is my favorite Arduino controller because of its compact size, which is exactly what I needed for this project to save space.
The operation of powering the entire project is another challenge! Some components require 3V, some 5V, and the power supply must have enough power to light all 72 LEDs. Oddly enough, an old power supply from a computer was used to solve this issue. It produces all types of required DC voltage - 12V, 5V and 3.3V. They are also self-contained, have small adjustments and consume little current.
All power and control components require a place where they can be located. So I built a simple cabinet out of OSB, attached legs to it, and additionally varnished it. The components are located on an open shelf, which can be covered with removable panels if necessary. I placed an outlet inside the cabinet and powered everything through a switch on the front panel, which makes it easy to turn everything off.

Once the control cabinet was assembled, it was time to do the heavy electrical work: Individually hang 72 LED lights from the ceiling...
Electric installation work
Due to the fact that I wanted to make an LED array on the ceiling, each LED lamp had to be suspended on its own cable running directly from the control cabinet. This created a problem for two reasons, firstly we would need a lot of cable, and secondly, it is almost impossible to hide such a large bundle of wires. Therefore, I started solving these issues by choosing a good multi-core cable. I decided that it would be much easier to remove a few wires from the cable, moving towards the last lamp, than to run 144 cables separately, and then hide them too. After exploring the market for cable products that can be purchased in bulk, I finally settled on a regular network cable for computer networks!
We used a CAT 5 network cable. It has a sufficient number of cores for us, and the fact that it consists of twisted pairs made our life much easier with connecting the LEDs.
Since the work of hanging the lamps is carried out on the ceiling, I really didn’t want to fall from a 1.5 meter height. Therefore, first we attached special mounts in the form of hooks to the ceiling, on which we later hung our wires with lamps. We made the physical connection of the wires to the lamps on the ground, having previously measured all the necessary distances. As a result, we ended up with six cable bays containing 12 LED lamps. Then, without difficulty, but with a little help, I was able to hang the lamps on the hooks.

After completing this project, I learned a few things about wiring harnesses. And I will be happy to share them with you below:
Measure twice, cut once - yes, an old saying, but with an unchanged meaning. There is nothing worse than ruining a 15 meter wiring harness by cutting off the wrong core.
Leave a reserve of wire - even if you are 100% sure of your measurements, make a reserve of 15-20 cm, it will not hurt you, and you can always cut off the excess.
Wire cross-section - long sections of wires have significant resistance, which depends on the wire cross-section, and voltage drop occurs across them. If you are making powerful projects, then do not be lazy and calculate the required wire cross-section.
Testing – check your work at different stages and areas. Finding an error in a fully assembled and installed harness is quite difficult!
Labeling – Create your own cable color codes, write them down or take a photo. Label wires before installation or bundling.
Interactivity
A whole bunch of lights arranged in a grid is quite an entertaining thing, but only if it reacts to surrounding events. Without this, we would just have a TV for viewing mega-low-resolution images. To start the project, I decided to create several different operating modes that would react differently to surrounding events. The ATmega328 controller from Arduino is well suited for this task.
I spent several days creating new programs using different sensors, experimenting with different ideas to see what types of interactions would be most engaging and consistent.
My favorite experiment uses ultrasonic rangefinders as an input device. Ultrasound is convenient, stable and unaffected by changes in ambient light. It also has a long enough range and wide detection area to work as a general activity monitor when positioned correctly. I used two Maxbotix Range Finders and placed them at opposite ends of the conference room. Each is connected to a separate analog-to-digital converter of the Arduino controller. This allows me to read data from them very quickly, separately from each other. I just glued them to the walls, they are so small you'll hardly notice.
Along with the rangefinders, I decided to add some interaction with ambient sounds. Unfortunately, the response to ambient sound was unpredictable. Our brains are so good at filtering sounds that we often don't realize how noisy a room is until we try to control the sound using a computer. The difference between a "quiet" room and a meeting room is more noticeable in the frequency spectrum than in the actual volume level.
But I still wanted to add one Spectrum Shields (audio digitization controller) to our project to create music visualization. It looks very good, especially on large displays. Due to the above difficulties, I decided to use a pure music source connected to the audio digitization controller. At first, it was a direct line from the headphones to the player, but later I decided to add wireless audio transmission via Bluetooth. For this I used the SparkFun Audio Bluetooth Breakout adapter - RN-52.

I made a small case for the Bluetooth Audio adapter, in which I placed a pair of speakers, as well as some buttons for adjustments and a window for the Bluetooth adapter status LED. I hung the case on the wall, where it would be easily accessible, and also ran a cable into the control cabinet to connect to power. The same cable transmits the audio signal from one of the speakers to the Spectrum Shields audio digitization controller, which I connected to 3V power from the Arduino Pro Mini controller through the Logic Level Converter adapter (converts 3V to 5V, and vice versa).

Now let's look at everything together
Hardware
The presented diagram is shown taking into account my changes, which I will discuss below:

In the diagram above, I replaced the Spectrum Shields audio digitization controller with a Graphic Equalizer Display Filter chip - MSGEQ7

I removed some passive elements and got rid of the logic level converter.
External sensors and devices are connected to the Arduino Pro Mini controller to the following pins:
Ultrasonic Range Finders - to pins A0 and A1
Momentary Pushbuttons – to pins A6 and A7
Power supply for MSGEQ7 chip - pin A3
How the TLC5940s driver boards are connected is very well described here:
http://bildr.org/2012/03/servos-tlc5940-arduino/
In the diagram above, the group of wires labeled "To Control Panel" is color coded to match the diagram below so you can trace the connections from one drawing to the next.
This is the control panel described in the Interactivity section. There's really not much going on here. The PH-52 Audio Bluetooth Breakout adapter does most of the work. A differentiated signal is taken from the audio output, sufficient for the MSGEQ7 chip, I simply took the positive signal from one of the speakers and brought it to the chip.
The line that says "To PSU Enable Line" is the power (ground) for the entire project. It is connected via a ground switch from the power supply (usually the green wire in all power supply connectors).

Software
Once your hardware is fully assembled, you need to load the controller with software code that will define the behavior of your LED array. You can get acquainted with the program code and its description in detail in the original instructions available at:
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/interactive-hanging-led-array
Moment of truth!

Let's figure out how to connect a Bluetooth module to Arduino, and then use it to control an RGB LED strip.

In this tutorial we will use the HC-06 Bluetooth module because it is quite cheap and easy to use. This option was ordered for $2 on Aliexpress.

To implement the RGB strip control project, we will need the following details:

• Arduino board (we will use) x 1
• Bluetooth module HC-06 or HC-05 x 1
• 12V RGB LED strip (we use 30LEDs/m with common anode) x 1
• Terminal screw x 1
• Resistor 220 Ohm x 3
• BUZ11 N-Channel Power MOSFET (or equivalent) x 3
• Layout and jumpers
• DC jack and DC connector (optional)
• Power supply 12V (variable power supply)

Step 2. Connections and diagram

The scheme is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

First, we need to determine whether our LED strip has a common anode or a common cathode. Ours has a common anode, so we connected the LED strip's anode to the 12V power supply and the rest to screw terminals, which we will connect to the MOSFET output later.

All important connections and diagram are shown in the picture above.

Be very careful when connecting the 12V+ rail to the Arduino board's VIN because you can burn the board if you connect it incorrectly. Also, don't forget to ground everything (GND).

Our connections end up looking like this:

Step 3: Arduino Code and Serial Communication

Upload the following sketch to Arduino using a USB cable.

const int redPin = 11; const int greenPin = 10; const int bluePin = 9; void setup() ( Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT); pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT); ) void loop() ( while (Serial.available() > 0) ( int red = Serial.parseInt(); int green = Serial.parseInt(); int blue = Serial.parseInt(); if (Serial.read() == "\n") ( red = constrain(red, 0, 255); green = constrain(green, 0, 255); blue = constrain(blue, 0, 255); analogWrite(redPin, green); analogWrite(bluePin, blue)

Important! Don't forget to disable the HC-06 module before uploading the sketch!

For what? The HC-06 communication pins (RX and TX) block communication between the Arduino and the computer.

Code Explanation

First, we declared several constants (constants that cannot be changed later) for all three colors (red, green, blue)

IN setup() we started the serial connection at 9600 baud and set all tape pins to OUTPUT.

In a loop loop(), if Serial receives something, it parses the received data as an Integer (important in the next step)

If it receives a newline character ("\n"), it first limits the values ​​to the range 0-255 due to the PWM (PWM) range. pulse-width modulation (PWM)), and then makes changes to the digital outputs using the method analogWrite().

Step 4. Connect Arduino to Android Device

We need to download the app" Smart Bluetooth- Arduino Bluetooth Serial".

Smart Bluetooth is an application that allows you to use your phone to communicate with a Bluetooth module or board in the simplest way. It gives unlimited possibilities in project management. Smart Bluetooth offers many ways to transfer data to your module.

Smart Bluetooth has the following functions:

• Quick connection to the module,
• Send and receive data from your module,
• Management of digital and PWM contacts of the receiver,
• Dark and light theme,
• Different management models for different purposes,
• Modern and responsive interface,
• Customizable buttons and switches,
• Realize your RC car project with a beautiful gamepad,
• Easy control of RGB strips via a slider,
• Automatically turns off Bluetooth when closed to save battery,
• Command line (terminal).

In this tutorial we are using the second tab (TAB). In general the process looks like this:

1. Open the application, press the SEARCH button and search for nearby devices.
2. Once your device is found, select it by clicking on it.
3. Select your preferred theme (dark or light) and hold your chosen button.
4. Wait for the connection, if it doesn't work, try reconnecting.
5. After successful connection, select the second tab (TAB) by clicking on it, drag the sliders and check if the LED strip has changed color.

Step 5. Result

This is where our acquaintance with connecting an RGB strip and controlling it via Arduino ends. In the following lessons we will try to complicate the project.