Jewelry made from polymer resin. How to make a ring from epoxy resin. Master class on making pendants, rings and earrings with rose buds from epoxy resin

Resin is poured into portions, dyes, glitter, a knife (I made it myself, from a bearing race), shavings, molds for filling (silicone is the most convenient) and/or you can make paper ones by gluing them with tape. (you can easily remove the workpiece), cups for additional mixing And be sure to work with gloves (either latex ones are sold in pharmacies, or I bought them from cellophane at the “everything for 51 rubles” store)

The first step is to mix the shavings with resin and tint - these dyes give a bright, dense color, so add drop by drop, on the tip of a toothpick, until the desired saturation

V in this case I used 3 dyes - black, green and blue.
added glitter sparkles in a simple way))

Mix the resin with the hardener in the specified proportion: 10 parts resin to 1 part hardener. What are the white cups for? We pour the resin-hardener mixture into them and mix again. Since the initial cup may contain unmixed resin and hardener, and if you pour it into the mold, you may be unpleasantly surprised by the stickiness of the workpiece. Therefore, we pour it and mix again. During the mixing process, air bubbles appear in the resin, and we get rid of them as follows:

There is one more secret - before vacuum treatment, we heat the resin in hot water up to 50-60 degrees - it becomes thinner and the bubbles leave the resin faster. Vacuum for 10-20 minutes. After this you can pour it into the mold.

after pouring and 10-15 minutes have passed, use a lighter to remove small bubbles and leave for 24 hours until completely hardened (according to the instructions). Practice shows that the heated mixture hardens completely in 4-5 hours. The simplest part is over.
These are the cubes I took out of the mold this morning.

Processing... Here we IMMEDIATELY put on clothes for dirty work, and be sure to wear a mask - since there will be a LOT of dust, and if possible, do everything in a checked room and/or with an exhaust hood.
It’s much easier for me to take it to work and grind and drill there on machines. At home I use a regular drill for drilling and a file))) First of all, I drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the center of the workpiece and after that I go to make a circle from the square))

This is how I look after turning the blanks on a machine with a hood. So I remind you once again that this is a “very dirty” stage

I grind it with a round file to almost the right size.

And the first “meditative” process begins with sandpaper-rough grinding of the ring. Bad photo, but the essence is clear - the ring takes shape.

And the important stage begins - “get the size”))) because 15 mm and 15.5 mm is a huge difference for wearing a ring comfortably. Girls know what a small ring means - the finger swells and it is very difficult to remove the ring without the help of soap, cream, thread (you don’t have to mock :-))))
And the second “meditative stage” of polishing begins. For this I use waterproof (important) sandpaper 600,1200,2500 grit.

We do all the sanding with water; water prevents the sandpaper from becoming clogged. We “pass” each ring through all the skins from 600 to 2500 - we remove all the scratches. I usually start with inside and depending on HOW WELL I polish the inside, the ring will look so good on the outside. I spend about 30-40 minutes polishing one ring and the final treatment is polishing. I bought polishing paste by weight at the car market - “For optics with plastic glasses"and with the help of an engraver the rings acquire their final form.

I devoted this entire week to working on orders from Rakhman from Grozny

Alexandra from Moscow

Oleg from Kolpino

And Yulia from St. Petersburg

Rakhman, Alexander, Oleg and Yulia, you saw how YOUR rings were made. Thank you for your attention.

Both epoxy and jewelry wire, in the sense of jewelry, special. Regular wire is uncoated and darkens over time. This can, of course, be used as an advantage, but it is not a fact that oxides will not damage the product in the process. More or less suitable aluminum wire can be found in flower shops. But again, most likely without coverage.

We take a wire that is soft enough, but not too thin. I have aluminum 1.5 mm coated. We turn the ring. It is advisable to use some known even shape.

Use side cutters to cut off the long end of the wire. Keep in mind that in this case one tip (here it will be on the right) will be sharp, and the second will be perpendicular to the wire, which is what we need.

In the same way, we cut the tail very, very close (or better even with a tiny margin) to the first cut.

Connect the ends of the ring. The closer they fit to each other, the better.

Now we glue our ring onto wide tape, which it is advisable to first secure to flat surface(I have ceramic tiles or glass) sticky side up.

Since it is better to dilute epoxy in at least 10 ml, then several blanks should be made at once, unless of course you want to throw away excess diluted epoxy. It is very important to check the tightness of the ring to the surface.

Next, I fill the frames with artistic waste - inlays. In general, they advise pouring the bottom layer first, and then pouring in the garbage, but since the time from mixing until the epoxy hardens is limited, I do it in a different order.

So, the blanks are laid out, the tightness is checked, and you can breed them.

I use Ice Resin (odorless, liquid and almost no bubbles - the latter is very important). I measure out the same amount of resin and hardener...

It is very important to measure the exact amount of liquids. Epoxy is an insidious thing: a little more hardener and it will start to “goat” (that is, reach for the tool with such horns) too quickly; any less and you'll be waiting forever for the lenses to harden. :)

Once again: special epoxy, jewelry Ice Resin or Crystal Resin. It differs from the industrial one in the absence of odor, greater transparency and less blistering. I ordered it here: http://vkontakte.ru/club13872192 - here it is:

Once upon a time I tried to make fills with epoxy glue- the quality is an order of magnitude worse, it is more difficult to work with, and in general it is not intended for jewelry purposes.

I knead. At first, the resin becomes cloudy and opalescent stains appear in it - this is normal. Continue stirring for another minute and a half... Until the mixture becomes transparent. Large bubbles will come out on their own, small ones gradually too. However, in the product they will need to be helped to “hatch”. From the start of mixing until the epoxy begins to “rise”, it takes us about 30-40 minutes.

Fill the lenses. I use a rubber stick for oil (it will be further in the frame), and I also use it to push out bubbles.

The initial filling, as can be seen in the photo, does not completely cover the “garbage”. This is fine. On at this stage We just need to create a “bottom” and secure the drawing. You can even pour less - I overdid it in the frames in the lower right corner. :) We have half an hour to do everything: fill it, push out the bubbles with a needle or a glass, make sure that the lenses are filled more or less evenly.
Now we exhale for 8-10 hours and hide our signs with fills on a distant, dust-free shelf and cover it with a lid, leaving a small gap for air between it and the shelf.

Stage two. After 8-10 hours, the lenses are ready for secondary filling. Mix the epoxy again and carefully apply the second layer. It should cover all protruding parts.

Epoxy does not contain solvents, so it does not shrink when cured. In addition, it is viscous, so if you pour it “heaped”, it will flow to the edge and stop there. But here it is important not to overdo it.

After another 8-10 hours, we remove our lenses from the tape. On
At this stage they look scary. Now we take the solvent and wash off the remaining adhesive tape. Alcohol, gasoline, white-spirit, acetone or nail polish remover will do.

Pour the third layer from the inside out and dry for another 8-10 hours. Voila. :) You can drill, insert into a frame, braid with wire and anything else your heart desires.

And more epoxy work

My favorite is heather. :)

Bracelet with heather

The poppies are plastic, but the lemon balm petals and blades of grass are natural (that’s where the herbarium came in handy).

Bracelet " Fresh water". Freshwater pearls, mother-of-pearl and other garbage. :)

Jasper chips, aventurine glass, fluorite sand and mother-of-pearl chips in jewelry epoxy and gilded wire. Tie pendant

Lapis lazuli chips, mother of pearl, dried heather, fluorite sand in epoxy and gilded wire. Bracelet.

Bracelet and medallion.

To work you need:

- epoxy resin;

- silicone molds (for epoxy resin);

— disposable gloves, syringes, cups, stirring stick;

— various natural materials (dried flowers, shells, pebbles, etc.);

- gold leaf, stained glass paints, Perlex powder.

I work on a regular file so as not to stain the table.

To create the hemisphere pendant, I selected two different dandelions so that I could compare how they would look in the final version.

Before starting work, thoroughly rinse all molds that we plan to use and wipe them dry. Wearing gloves, pour in disposable cups resin and hardener (it’s more convenient to take them with a syringe). We work in a well-ventilated area.

Having measured required amount resin, pour it into a clean, dry glass, use another syringe to measure the required amount of hardener and add it to the resin. U different manufacturers your proportions, so carefully read what is written on the package and follow all recommendations for work. The final result depends on the accuracy; if the resin has not hardened, it means the proportions have been violated, or the mixture is not mixed well enough.

If you take a syringe with rubber insert inside, the hardener will not splash when you pour it into the epoxy. Wooden stick(you can use kebabs skewers) mix the resulting mixture thoroughly. I time it for 10 minutes and stir it in a circular motion to prevent air from getting in.

We carefully place the dandelion in the mold (I removed the lower parachutes with tweezers)

After mixing, I leave the resin for about half an hour so that the chemical reaction takes place: you can judge that the reaction is taking place by the heated glass of resin. Experienced way I have established that it is not worth working in very hot weather, the reaction will begin to proceed very violently and the resin will harden completely within half an hour. This applies to the resin I use; different manufacturers have different criteria.

Gently pour the resin into the mold in a thin stream, onto the dandelion.

Because After it hardens, it will settle a little, pour it so that you get a small convex lens.

Now I will show you how you can make beautiful rings from pieces of glass washed and polished by the sea.

Pour a little resin, place the pebbles, carefully add on top, as when working with a hemisphere, to create a convex surface.

I'm making earrings with dandelion parachutes. Pour some resin and spread it with a stick. At this stage, the resin begins to gradually thicken, this is exactly what is needed so that the parachutes remain in the position in which they were placed.

We arrange the bouquet.

Top it up with resin with a small bulge. If you do this carefully, you will end up needing minimal sanding.

A truncated ball is obtained in exactly the same way. Pour resin halfway into the mold.

We place the required number of parachutes with a toothpick or, as I did, with a large needle (it’s good to wipe it off the resin).

Add resin to the mold with dandelion.

Now let's make a bracelet with shells from Black and Azov seas. In the same way, pour epoxy resin into a clean, dry bracelet mold. By this time it has become even thicker, so some of it remains on the walls, which is what I need. Add shells, pebbles, sea ​​stars, everything that is interesting) Pour out the crushed shells, which stick to the walls, creating the effect of a suspended state.

Half an hour before this, I prepared a new portion of resin, very carefully pour it on top to avoid the appearance of unnecessary bubbles. If there are still bubbles, you can preheat the oven to 80 degrees, ventilate, place a mold with resin there (molds can withstand temperatures up to + 204 C). The bubbles will come out.

It is important that the mold stands on a flat surface, otherwise the resin will harden in an inclined position. The more carefully you pour the epoxy, the less sanding you will need to do later. I poured resin as much as possible to the very top, with a slight bulge.

Now we wait a day until completely dry resin. To prevent debris/dust from getting onto the surface of the products, you need to cover them with something, a box, a lid.

At this time we will make a pendant. We prepare the main background - apply liquid plastic to the workpiece. Polymer clay, rolled into a thin layer, cover, distribute and bake in the oven. Let it cool and you can start working.

We pour a few drops of resin so that it can be distributed on the surface and, using tweezers and a needle, we make a composition from completely dried leaves - flowers. The resin acts as a glue that prevents the light dried flowers from moving from their place. You should not use live or poorly dried flowers for filling with resin; over time they will deteriorate and turn black.

Because There is a holder on the back of the pendant, I had to put it in a mold so that the surface was horizontal. I never think in advance what the composition should be, so I lay out all the suitable flowers and herbs and with inspiration begin to assemble a small living picture.

The end result is such a small world. We leave it to dry, after the resin has hardened, you can fill it with a second layer, forming a convex beautiful lens.

A day passed, the resin was completely cured and I took out all the resulting blanks. This is a bracelet, its upper part.

Using the same principle, you can make a pendant, earrings, ring, etc.

This is a hemisphere with a dandelion, next to it is a second one, orange, for comparison.

These are the resulting truncated balls with parachutes:

I also filled in small hemispheres:

Rings made from sea glass; for comparison, I used the ones I made earlier.

If you add a drop of stained glass paint or Perlex powder to the resin, you can get different shades resin. When painting with stained glass paint, you should add just a drop, because... The proportions between the resin and hardener may be disrupted by coloring, and as a result the product may not harden or may become sticky when touched.

You can add gold leaf and get interesting decorations.

And these lenses with parachutes, as you can see, lie beautifully. Just as it was intended.

The reverse side remained flush with the edges of the lenses.

After complete hardening, it is necessary to sand down uneven and sharp edges.

Many people have probably seen original epoxy resin jewelry in stores. Such products are very popular, because each decoration combines magic, romance, and creative design ideas. Like frozen drops of clear spring water with amazing compositions inside, earrings, rings, brooches attract fashionistas who want to emphasize tenderness, femininity, and extraordinary taste in the choice of accessories. Undoubtedly, to buy such a product, you will have to spend a lot of money, because the price for original works is fairly high. Do you want to look stylish and elegant while spending a minimum of money? We offer to learn how to make beautiful jewelry made of epoxy resin with your own hands. The process is incredibly creative, interesting, and will appeal to all lovers of beautiful hand made jewelry.

What is epoxy resin

You need to know how to choose resin for creativity. This is, first of all, a synthetic product; its choice should be approached very responsibly.

It’s not worth saving, because it’s cheap and poor quality material may turn yellow, is too harsh and unpleasant smell, low degree of plasticity and transparency.

All these properties determine the quality and aesthetics of jewelry. It is important that the resin completely imitates glass or transparent ice; amazing compositions from any natural materials. How to choose epoxy resin? The material is safe, it is a transparent liquid, containing chemical resins and hardeners. In the process of mixing these ingredients, polymerization and hardening occurs.

Valuable for its own unique properties product received wide application from decorators, designers, artists, manufacturers of jewelry and souvenirs. If you learn proper operation with epoxy resin, you can create magical 3D effects and protect any craft from dust, scratches, and moisture. As a rule, manufacturers prepare complex kits for creativity, which include the chemical product itself, gloves, a measuring cup for easy mixing, and a stick for mixing the substance. Preference should be given to trusted manufacturers to avoid harm to precious health. Main secret success - strict adherence to the instructions and proportions of the epoxy composition.

Epoxy resin

Despite the relative safety of chemicals, extreme caution should be exercised when working:

• avoid contact of resin with mucous membranes and the skin of the hands; work with gloves, a medical mask or a protective petal;
• if glaze particles do get on the skin or mucous membranes, you should immediately rinse the area with running water;
• It is prohibited to use resins for the manufacture of products that come into contact with food;
• work with the epoxy composition should be carried out in a ventilated area;
• When turning products, be sure to wear a respirator so that particles do not get on the mucous membrane.

Compliance with simple safety rules can make the creative process more comfortable.

How to work with epoxy resin

5 main secrets

Many craftswomen were able to turn favorite hobby into a successful home business, because beautiful and original jewelry is at the peak of popularity today.

To learn this art, experienced needlewomen have several secrets:

• Filling forms. The forms, which craftsmen call molds, must be made of high-quality platinum silicone. This type of mold allows you to control the pouring at any stage, as well as comfortably remove the product after hardening. After use, be sure to wash the molds with warm soapy water.
• Temperature conditions. You should know that the polymerization process is closely related to the release of heat. During chemical reaction resin can heat up to high temperature, even up to 60 degrees. Please note that the mold for filling the blanks must be heat-resistant.
• The right consistency. Before the polymerization stage, the resin retains the properties of a viscous liquid. If a dry filler such as cork is used, wood slices or baby, it goes down. This should be taken into account when distributing the composition.
• Transparency. The main difficulty that beginners and experienced craftsmen, - air bubbles.

To make the surface and structure of the product as transparent as possible, you can let the mixture sit for a little while and then heat it up. This will allow the bubbles to float to the top, after which they can be carefully removed.

• Use of decor. In this matter, everything is limited only by the imagination of needlewomen. Small cones, leaves and flowers, dried flowers, glitters, rhinestones, beads are the most popular decor for making beautiful jewelry from epoxy resin. When using leaves and flowers, it is better to dry them first. The classic way is like in school, between the pages of a book.

You should not skimp on accessories for your jewelry; the stingy, as they say, pays twice! Agree, it is very important what the painstakingly nurtured compositions inside the transparent drop are framed in.

Video tutorial on epoxy resin

DIY epoxy resin jewelry

Armed with theoretical knowledge and the secrets of experienced needlewomen, you can move on to the practical part creative process. We offer several simple and interesting master classes for beginners on making original jewelry.

DIY mysterious ring made of wood and resin

Decoration with dried flowers

To create beautiful earrings you will need high-quality epoxy resin, beautiful dried heather flowers, forget-me-nots, speedwell or any other flowering forest herbs. You will also need a hook for earrings. We will use the simplest method without special molds.

The operating algorithm is as follows:

• Let's prepare the epoxy composition. Mix all the ingredients strictly according to the instructions, and then leave the resin to reach the desired viscosity, for about 2-3 hours. Do not be alarmed; initially, a lot of air bubbles collect in the resin. After the mass settles, they will gradually disappear.
• We draw several stencils on a sheet of paper. You can make them of any shape, oval, round or even irregular, so the product looks more interesting.
• While the mixture thickens, prepare the surface. This stage is very important, because every small speck of dust will disrupt the delicate aesthetics of the transparent decoration. The surface should be perfectly flat; the top can be covered with oilcloth or cling film.
• We lay out our stencils on oilcloth, and cover them on top with ordinary stationery files. We begin to pour the resin directly onto the file, distributing it over the stencil, and straightening the edges with a stick or toothpick. The height of the workpiece should be 2-3 centimeters. Cover the top with a dome lid.
• Leave the pieces until they completely harden for a day. After we remove them from the files, they are separated from the polyethylene surface without extra effort. We give correct form with a nail file or sandpaper, slightly sharpening the edges of the product.
• We mix a new portion of resin, and in the meantime lay out the dried flowers. Drop a little viscous mass onto the base and apply dried flowers, cover with a lid and let dry. To make the coating three-dimensional, like a lens, we cover it with resin again. We give the final shape with a file or sandpaper.
• Using a needle, drill a hole at the base and thread the earrings. The product is ready.

Decorations made from epoxy resin and dried flowers

Skeleton leaves

Designer bracelet

Amazing accessories with any filling are cast from epoxy resin. We offer interesting lesson to create an original bracelet.

It will be useful at work:

• special mold for the bracelet;
• two-component resin with hardener;
• plastic container for mixing the mass;
• wooden stick;
• dry leaves or flowers.

Tools that will be useful are simple toothpicks and scissors, as well as sandpaper for grouting.

DIY bracelet made of epoxy resin and wood

Let's get started:

• Wash and dry the uniform. Let's knead the epoxy “dough” in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. Stir the mixture until the bubbles come to the surface.
• Let's prepare the decorative filler. We trim the leaves so that they do not stick out from the mold.
• When the resin has thickened and settled, carefully pour it into the mold.

Filling must be done slowly, in a thin stream. The more accurately the substance is poured into the mold, the less polishing the product will require.

• Immediately place the leaves in the resin in a circle, straightening them with a toothpick. To get all the air bubbles out of the resin, you can put the mold in the oven for 10 minutes, heated to 80 degrees, and then turn it off.
• After heating, take out the workpiece and leave it to harden.

When the decoration has hardened, remove it from the mold and sand down any unevenness and sharp edges with fine-grained sandpaper. To make the surface of the bracelet glossy, open it with acrylic varnish.

DIY bracelet made of epoxy resin

Colored resin products

The creative materials industry keeps pace with the development of the creative industry. Today, epoxy resin can be used to make not only products that are transparent, like a teardrop, but also brightly colored jewelry in any color of the rainbow. Costume jewelry of any shade made from epoxy resin and wood is especially popular. They will easily complement a boho style look, creating a romantic mood. We suggest you create it yourself creative miracle, having produced the original and fashion accessory. In our work we will use transparent resin, pieces of acrylic, sections from wood, and luminous pigments. To shape the product you will need a grinding machine.

Let's start the process:

• Let's prepare a sketch of the decoration on paper. Let's distribute the areas where the resin should be and where wooden decor, let's define color transitions.
• We glue pieces of acrylic, put wood slices according to the sketch on the bottom, glue them to the base so that they do not float up in the resin mass.
• Mix the resin and hardener in the right ratio, add a blue or green fluorescent pigment to the mass. If you use a simple luminous pigment, the resin will simply take on a milky hue. With colored pigments, the product looks brighter and more original.
• Mix the resin, stirring with a stick strictly in a circle so that the bubbles come to the surface. We fill the workpiece.

The polymerization time depends on several factors: room temperature, correct mixing and ratio of ingredients.

Cover the workpiece with a lid to prevent dust particles from getting on the delicate surface.

• After a day, if the workpiece has frozen, we disassemble the formwork and remove the block. It's time to give it the required form.

Using a grinding machine, we level the surface, cut out the desired shape according to the sketch, and process the edges of the product.

From one block you can make several decorations on the same theme for yourself, as well as as a gift to family and friends.

Jewelry made from epoxy resin is always stylish and original. Each product combines natural fragility, tenderness and the unique creative thought of the master. Having learned all the secrets of unusual art, you can create with pleasure, creating collections of unusual designer accessories.

Earrings “Colored glass” made of epoxy resin and paint

Fruit rings