Caring for phalaenopsis at home. Phalaenopsis: care at home. How to care for Phalaenopsis after purchase, flowering, replanting

Phalaenopsis orchids are considered one of the most common indoor plants. In order for them to bloom profusely and delight their owners, they must be properly cared for.

Rules for watering phalaenopsis

Household phalaenopsis orchids are watered only after the soil is in the flowerpot. dried up. But the soil should not remain dry for a long time. If the plant is grown in a transparent pot, then a signal that the flower needs to be watered will be the absence of moisture on the walls of the container. Also, due to lack of moisture, the orchid's roots become lighter. To determine the drying depth of the soil in an opaque pot, you need to rake the soil.

Recommendations: when watering an orchid, it is not advisable for water to get on the leaves. It is better to use the bottom watering method. To do this, place the pot in a container filled with water. This way the soil is saturated with liquid through the holes in the pot.

Clean boiled water is suitable for watering the plant. Phalaenopsis is washed in the shower once every 3-4 weeks. After this procedure, the plant must be wiped dry, as it does not like waterlogging. It can die from excess moisture.

Phalaenopsis orchid care

Proper care of phalaenopsis involves the following measures: regular watering, fertilizing, choosing the right location for the flowerpot, etc.

Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home starts with the right location pot. For this plant, it is better to choose window sills that are oriented to the west, east or northeast. A plant located on the south side should be protected from direct sunlight, which can leave burns on the surface of the leaves. This can be done using tulle.

Phalaenopsis orchids: home care

Tip: once every two to three weeks, the flowerpot with the plant must be rotated 180 degrees so that it does not tilt to one side. This rule does not apply to the time when the flower is in the process of forming buds.

To plant blossomed, it must be grown in partial shade. A suitable temperature for this is considered to be 18-25 degrees. The flower tolerates a short increase in temperature to 35-42 degrees and a decrease to 12 degrees.

To care for a phalaenopsis orchid at home, you need to know when humidity it is grown. Suitable air humidity for the plant is considered to be 30-40%. At the same time, the flower needs good ventilation in the room. If the humidity regime is not observed, the leaves may lose their elasticity and the flowers may fall off. To avoid such problems, it is recommended to place the flowerpot in a container filled with wet pebbles. Also, the plant cannot be sprayed.

Feeding phalaenopsis

Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home includes regular feeding. It is recommended to feed the flower 2 times every 3-4 weeks. For these purposes, you can add complex fertilizer to the water " Kemira Lux"in the proportion of 1 gram per 1 liter of water. The plant can also be fed every week. In this case, the concentration of the fertilizer is weakened.

Proper care of phalaenopsis. Photo

Tip: It is recommended to pour water with diluted fertilizer only onto damp soil.

Rules for transplanting phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis needs a transplant when it has been growing for two to three years in the same soil. During this time, the soil cakes, disappears or turns sour. Strong branching of the root system and its germination through holes in the bottom of the pot are considered evidence that it is time to replant the plant. It is recommended to replant the plant after it has flowered. A drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the flowerpot, medium-fraction bark is poured on top, then fine-fraction bark mixed with moss. Before filling the soil from the bark into the flowerpot, it must be washed and then soaked in water for 48 hours. After this, it should be rinsed again with purified water.

Phalaenopsis pruning

Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home includes pruning. They do it after flowering. Before pruning, you need to observe the old arrow: the flaccid and yellow ones are removed, but the green ones should be left. This indicates that the plant can bloom again in 2 months. It is better to shorten a long arrow. To do this, it must be cut 1 cm above the developed bud.

Advice: in order for the plant to bloom profusely, it is necessary to trim the peduncle as low as possible. But in no case should you prune below the 3rd bud, as this means that the plant will not bloom for a long time.

Why doesn't phalaenopsis bloom?

An orchid should bloom every three months. But it often happens that the leaves of a plant have grown, but flowering has not occurred. A flower can behave this way for several reasons:

• a lack of sunny lighting. It is necessary to eliminate the cause and the orchid will bloom;
• soil plants overfed fertilizers containing nitrogen. It is necessary to wait until the nitrogen is processed by the flower. During this period, it is recommended to apply only phosphorus fertilizers;
• fatigue plants. For it to start blooming, you need to wait a little and add a growth stimulant. For these purposes, the preparations “Ovary” or “Bud” are used. Such stimulants are used when watering plants. Also, with the help of a sharp temperature change, you can force a flower to bloom. To do this, it is enough to lower the night temperature compared to the daytime by six to eight degrees.

Phalaenopsis after flowering

Yellowed or dried arrows must be cut off. The green peduncle can be left, trimmed, or removed altogether. The cut green arrow is left in the water. Children may grow on it over time. On the old stem that is left behind, side shoots often reappear, on which flowers then grow.

Phalaenopsis diseases and their treatment

Household phalaenopsis orchids are susceptible to a large number of diseases. In most cases, this occurs due to improper care.

Orchid is susceptible fusarium. With this fungal disease, the root system is first affected, and then the disease affects the entire plant. The main cause of fusarium is excess moisture. There is no cure for this disease, so the affected flower must be destroyed. An orchid affected by black, brown, root, gray rot, rust, anthracnose and spotting can be cured with a fungicide, foundationol, topsin-M. To do this, it is necessary to treat the plant twice with an interval of ten days.

Phalaenopsis can get sick hives. The size of the spots on the leaves with this disease is about two to three centimeters. Causes of the disease: high humidity, insufficient air exchange and low temperature. To cure a plant, it is enough to find and remove the cause of the disease. With proper care of the phalaenopsis orchid at home, such problems can be avoided.

Due to increased moisture and insufficient ventilation, the flower may get sick botrytis. Deep brown spots appear on the leaves of a diseased plant, after which the leaves begin to wither. You can slow down the course of the disease by increasing the air temperature in the room. It is also recommended to ensure good air exchange of moist air and treat phalaenopsis with bactericidal preparations.

The use of chemicals to kill pests, excess light, irrational feeding and watering can cause non-infectious diseases. Symptoms of such diseases: dry ends of leaves, death of roots, appearance of various spots. In order to help the orchid, it is necessary to find and remove the cause of the disease.

Phalaenopsis pests

Proper care of phalaenopsis involves pest control. The falling of yellowed foliage may indicate that the plant is affected mealybug. To destroy it, you need to treat the flower with a soap solution. Laundry soap is suitable for these purposes.

If the leaves are covered with brown spots, this may indicate damage thrips. To combat them, actelliks or other systemic insecticides (hostaquics, isatrins) are used. But it is best to use fitoverm. It's not that toxic.

Tubercles on the foliage of an orchid are evidence that it is affected scale insect. To combat these pests, it is necessary to treat the plant twice with a soap solution at an interval of seven days.

Phalaenopsis can also be attacked slugs, which harm the entire plant. You can get rid of this pest in the following way: you need to place pieces of cucumber or carrots on the ground and wait for the slugs to appear. Then destroy them. If it is not possible to physically eliminate these pests, then insecticides such as mesurol or metaldehyde can be used.

Reproduction of phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis, unlike other types of orchids, reproduce kids. To do this, it is necessary to separate the side stems that have formed on the arrow or at the base of the rosette of leaves. This should be done only after the plant has rested for a month or two after flowering. Shoots on which several leaves have already formed and aerial roots have grown to a length of up to 5 cm are suitable for propagation.

Advice: children should not be allowed to outgrow, as this will negatively affect the mother’s socket.

The baby, separated from the mother's outlet, is dried for 24 hours. After this, they are planted in the soil mixture and a greenhouse is built over the plant. Lateral processes in phalaenopsis are a rare phenomenon. Usually their appearance indicates improper care.

If the orchid does not produce children, then you can artificially awaken the dormant buds that produce them. To do this you need:

• Find dormant buds at the base of the peduncle, which have already faded.
• Clear the kidneys of scales. To do this, use a sharp blade to make a shallow cut at the base of the covering scale in the shape of a semicircle and remove it. This can be done with tweezers.
• The sleeping kidney needs to be lubricated. To do this, you can use fresh birch sap or a growth regulator.
• In a few months, rosettes consisting of two or three leaves will appear at the site of the cut.
• Roots appear in the third month.
• To speed up the growth process, you need to put a plastic bag on the orchid.

As you can see, caring for a phalaenopsis orchid has a large number of nuances, but knowing them you can grow a beautiful flower.

Homemade phalaenopsis orchids: care. Video

Botanical name: Phalaenopsis.

Family. Orchids.

Phalaenopsis orchid - the birthplace of the plant. Comes from Sumatra, Java, Borneo, Sulawesi, Philippines, New Guinea.

Description.Phalaenopsis is a widespread domestic, profusely flowering orchid that began to be cultivated approximately 100 years ago.

The genus consists of 60 species of evergreen, epiphytic, monopodial (having a single stem) orchids.

do not have pseudobulbs, but have aerial roots, with the help of which they attach themselves to the support.

Each plant has 3 - 6 wide, oval, green, leathery, fleshy sheet.

Peduncles are leafless, vertical, very tall, have at the top many (up to 20) large, showy flowers with rounded petals that open sequentially from the base of the peduncle.

The color scheme is very diverse and includes white, all shades of pink, yellow, purple, burgundy. There are varieties with flowers that combine several shades at once.

Orchid grows slowly and can grow only 1 or 2 leaves in a year.

Height. Depends on the specific type and varies from 20 cm to 1 m.

2.Phalaenopsis - care at home

2.1.Phalaenopsis transplant

P replant phalaenopsis as needed - when the plant becomes too cramped in the pot, after purchase or, if necessary, change the soil to fresh one. Mature plants are replanted every 2 - 3 years.

The need to replant after purchase is due to the fact that orchids are often sold in pots with heavily compacted sphagnum moss - it retains moisture and plants on the road do not suffer from a lack of it. If everything is fine with the soil in the purchased pot - wait until flowering ends.

Planting in new soil is carried out with the beginning of new growth, before flowering or immediately after it.

For landing it is worth picking up transparent plastic pots, since in nature this orchid behaves like an epiphyte and the roots participate in the process of photosynthesis.

Pots should have large drainage holes in the bottom, and you can also make small holes in the walls of the pot so that air can penetrate to the roots.

Do not rush to change the volume of the pot for plants - when grown in close quarters, flowering will be more luxuriant, and the risk of rot will be reduced.

1. Create a nutritious and loose substrate for growing phalaenopsis.
2. It is possible to “steam” fresh soil the day before planting with hot water, since it contains coarse pieces of pine bark and soaking in boiling water will increase their moisture capacity.
3. The flower is removed from the old pot, slightly crushing its walls with your hands.
4. The plant is shaken off from the remnants of old soil.
5. When replanting, inspect the root system and, if necessary, remove old and damaged roots on the orchid to the living part. To trim, use a sterile knife, and treat the cut area with an antiseptic - for example, crushed charcoal.
6. Place a drainage layer at the bottom of the pot - for example, consisting of pine bark.
7. Cover the drainage with a small layer of soil. Place a flower with straightened roots in the center of the pot and sprinkle its root system with substrate.
8. After planting, you should not compact the soil too much - it should easily allow moisture and air to pass through to the roots.
9. Don't be afraid that the inner roots have a white or creamy tint - the sun just didn't reach them.

First watering after transplantation they carry out in a few days, but they must be very abundant so that the new soil is saturated with moisture.

Only transplanted orchids should not be exposed to direct sunlight, and it is also worth stopping feeding for a while - for 2 - 3 weeks.

2.2. Reproduction of phalaenopsis

Daughter offspring- shoots that sometimes form on dormant buds of peduncles or directly on the trunk of the orchid. Daughter plants are separated from the mother plant when each of them has 5 or more roots of their own, at least 5 cm long.

Baby gets separated along with pieces of peduncle- cutting it 1 cm away from the young plant. It is believed that young plants aged at least 9 - 12 months are suitable for separation.

Children are not cut off from the stems - once they are released, the mother plant often dies over time, leaving behind a young one.

Sometimes small orchids appear near the mother plant. Often the appearance of children indicates improper care of the plant - in the struggle for procreation, it releases its descendants.

Aged large orchids can be divide when transplanting, if each division has well-developed roots and a green ground part.

Young plants will try to bloom at a very early age - these attempts should be stopped by cutting off the peduncle as close to the base as possible - this way these flowers will have the opportunity to build up the root system and get stronger.

Daughter plants will appear from time to time in place of dormant buds. The daughters are separated from the mother bush with a sharp sterile instrument and placed in the ground in a warm place in the shade from direct sunlight.

Peduncles, pruned plants after the buds have withered can be rooted both in nutritious and well-moistened soil, and in plain water. All leaves are removed from the peduncles, the cut area is slightly dried and the bases are dusted with rooting powder, and dormant buds are lubricated with cytokinin paste every 7 days.

In general, with the help of cytokinin paste, you can easily get several babies on a peduncle, not even separated from an adult phalaenopsis.

The lower end of the peduncle is placed in soil or water to a depth of 4 - 5 cm, after some time roots will appear at its base.

Reproduction seeds requires special conditions and can only be done by professionals.

The seeds are pre-soaked in a special solution containing fructose, fertilizers for orchids, activated carbon, glucose, agar - agar.

The nutrient solution and seeds are placed in a sterilized and tightly sealed glass tube and kept in such conditions for six months, until sprouts appear.

This method is suitable only for very patient gardeners, since first flowering in plants obtained from seeds, only in 4 - 7 years.

2.3.Pests and diseases

• Orchids often are rotting with waterlogging and insufficient air movement.
• Plants refuse to bloom or bloom less profusely when lack of light.
• Leaves lose turgor - they wither when lack of moisture in the air or ground.
• When an orchid is exposed to direct sunlight, spots may appear on the leaves. burns.
• Phalaenopsis dried out during flowering will drop buds.
• The lower leaves become yellow with insufficient soil moisture.
• Small white specks on leaf blades may be due to exposure to too much low temperature.
• A lack of nutrients will certainly manifest itself in the form of small flowers and leaf blades - young leaves should be the same size as the old ones or even larger than them.
• Diseases may include powdery mildew, leaf spot, brown and gray rot, anthracnose, rust, and fusarium.

Plants can be attacked by mealybugs and red spider mites, scale insects, thrips, nematodes, aphids, and whiteflies.

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2.4.When it blooms

Phalaenopsis usually blooms at home late winter - early spring, the flowering period can last several months and sometimes even up to a year.

Each flower remains attractive for 2 - 3 months. Each orchid is capable of forming several flower stalks.

With proper care you can wait repeat wave of flowering throughout the year, but it will be less abundant.

The onset of flowering is possible stimulate by drying the soil for a month, as well as keeping it in cool conditions - at a temperature of 12 - 14 ° C for several nights.

With proper care, plants can bloom 2 - 3 times a year.

IN In general, the health of phalaenopsis can be judged by the number of buds on the peduncle - if there are more than 7 flowers on each peduncle, then everything is fine with the plant. If an orchid produces 5 or fewer flowers, it is worth checking the conditions of maintenance, feeding if necessary, and inspecting the root system during replanting.



2.5. Watering phalaenopsis

Water the orchids with soft bottled drinking or rain And thawed water at room temperature. Using cold water for irrigation will provoke the development of rot and fungal diseases.

Watering should be abundant– until the earthen clod is completely soaked, but enough rare– the soil must dry to a depth 5 - 7 cm. between waterings.

In the warm season, the pot with the plant can be completely immerse in a large container of water for a few minutes so that large pieces of pine bark in the soil can become saturated with water. After such soaking, excess moisture should be removed.

If rainwater is not available, you can use melt water by freezing it in the freezer, then defrosting it and warming it to room temperature.

Remember that phalaenopsis suspended on a block requires more moisture.



Phalaenopsis does not have pseudobulbs, which would help the plant store moisture reserves and therefore watering should be regular, especially in the warm season, when the plant is actively developing and blooming.

When watering, water should not come into contact with flowers and buds- this spoils their appearance, as well as in the center of the plant - this will cause rot.

Abundant watering helps wash away unnecessary salts from the soil; excess moisture from the pan must be drained immediately after watering.

When growing on a block, the frequency of watering should be significantly higher than when growing in a pot.



When growing in a transparent pot It’s easier to determine the need for the next watering - just look at the root system and pieces of pine bark in the soil. If the bark in the pot turns lighter and the roots turn white, it means they have dried out and the plant needs watering.

In general, the frequency of watering will depend on the air temperature and humidity, as well as on the weather outside the window - in cloudy and rainy weather the plant requires less moisture.



2.6.Growing in a pot - soil

The plant prefers well-drained soil consisting of sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, pine and oak bark, fibers of fern rhizomes, high acidic peat, sand and charcoal.

Adding a small amount of chopped pine needles will help maintain the required level of acidic soil pH.

A small amount of humus will help nourish the plant, but it is better not to overdo it with this component.

The earth must have slightly acidic pH and easily pass air and moisture to the roots of the plant.



2.7. Fertilizing indoor phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis at home responds very well to regular feeding.

Feed fertilizers for orchids, diluted to half the recommended dose every 2 weeks. In autumn and winter you can feed every month.

Only transplanted plants should not be fertilized - firstly, they are able to absorb nutrients from fresh soil, and secondly, the nutrient solution can damage the roots disturbed during transplantation.

First feeding after transplant done in 2 - 3 weeks.



Orchids grown in a mixture containing a large amount of pine bark should be fed with fertilizers with a high content nitrogen. Do the same with all phalaenopsis in the spring, when the plant produces new leaves.

With the appearance of flower stalks, it is worth using fertilizers, rich in phosphorus- this way the flowering will be more abundant.

The nutrient solution is used only on wet soil. after watering the plants, introducing it directly into the soil, but will be more successful foliar feeding by spraying fertilizer on the roots and leaves of the orchid.

Remember that direct sunlight should not fall on the leaf blades with the applied nutrient solution - this will cause burns.



2.8.Growing temperature


All year round warm content at normal room temperature. Desirable difference between day and night temperatures, for example, if the temperature during the daytime is 25 - 30 ° C, then at night the optimal temperature would be a decrease to 18 - 20 ° C.

During the dormant period - in winter - the plant is kept in cool conditions, but the air temperature in the room should not fall below 16 ° C.

The higher the ambient temperature, the higher the air humidity and frequency of watering should be.



2.9.Caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home, pruning

Growing phalaenopsis is not very difficult, but it requires compliance with certain agricultural techniques.

If the last flower on the peduncle fades and the peduncle itself turns brown - trim the stem is at a height of about 3 cm from the base - this will allow the plant to save energy and use it for more luxuriant flowering next season.

If you leave the peduncle, the next flowering will come faster, but will be less abundant.

Remember that some varieties bloom year after year on the same peduncle, so don’t rush into pruning and observe the plant before taking any action.

Sometimes for the onset of flowering orchids require a stressful situation - place such plants in a dark and dry place for 2 - 3 weeks. After returning to the light and resuming watering, buds may appear.




When flowering on the same peduncle, the flowers appear at the top each time and the peduncle eventually becomes too long - in this case it should also be shortened.

Peduncles that are too tall and thin can tilt under the weight of the buds - they should be supported with supports.

If the new leaves become larger than the old ones, it means the plant is kept in optimal conditions and receives good nutrition.

Do not move flowering plants to another place and do not change the conditions of their maintenance - the orchid may drop the buds.



First couple of weeks after the purchase Phalaenopsis should be acclimatized to new conditions and only then transplanted into a fairly spacious pot and new soil.

If the orchid does not look very good and is about to bloom, it’s better remove peduncle, since the formation of buds will take a lot of energy from a sick plant.



Old, yellowed leaves at the base of the rosette delete- to do this, use sharp scissors to cut them along the central vein from the very tip to the base and stretch them with your hands in different directions. Using this method, leaves are removed as painlessly as possible for the plant and without leaving any residue.

Large, fleshy plant leaves should be wiped from dust with a damp sponge or cotton pad from time to time.



2.10.Lighting

Well lit location without direct sunlight during the daytime. Sufficient lighting will play a decisive role in the onset of abundant flowering. In autumn and winter, additional lighting is possible using fluorescent lamps.

Orchids grown in good light have lighter leaf colors compared to those grown in partial shade - they will be dark.

The appearance of burgundy shades on the leaves indicates an excess of sunlight - such plants often form fewer buds during flowering, and the flowers themselves become smaller.




Duration daylight hours for phalaenopsis should be about 12 - 16 hours.

Direct sunlight can hit the plants only in the morning and evening hours; during the day during spring and summer, when the sun's activity is too high, it is better to shade orchids.

Plants can be rotated a quarter turn around their own axis every week so that they develop symmetrically and do not tilt towards the light source. The exception here will be blooming orchids - such specimens cannot be disturbed.



You can surround a pot with an orchid layer of damp sphagnum moss or spray the leaves with soft water at room temperature, giving the plant a place where there is sufficient air movement.

Spraying It should be carried out only in the morning, so that droplets of moisture have time to evaporate before dusk and only with warm, softened water, since ordinary tap water leaves whitish spots on the leaves.

Remember that water getting into the leaf rosette can cause rot. When spraying, also try not to get it on flowers and buds - water can ruin their appearance.


2.13.Note

The phalaenopsis flower, due to its unpretentiousness, is the most common type of orchid at home.



2.14.Hydroponics

Grows well in hydroponics.

3. Phalaenopsis varieties

It is very difficult to describe all varieties of phalaenopsis - after all, there are a great many of them, let’s look at just a few.

3.1.Schiller's Phalaenopsis - Phalaenopsis schilleriana

A profusely blooming species with large, pink flowers on drooping stalks that have a rose scent. The homeland of the plant is the Philippines. It has become widespread due to its unpretentiousness and tolerance to low lighting levels. An excellent hanging plant, which during the flowering period will hang large branched flower stalks with a cascade of pink flowers over the edges of a hanging flowerpot.

Phalaenopsis Liodoro

A miniature multi-flowered subspecies with bright, soft, green leaves and short, often drooping flower stalks. The flowers are very brightly colored - the edges of the petals have a yellow tint, and towards the center they are abundantly covered with small specks, merging into a solid pink or lilac tone.



3.4.Phalaenopsis Mini Mark

A very beautiful, small-flowered plant, reaching a height of only 10 - 15 cm. The leaves are dark green, relatively large, glossy, slightly bent along the central vein. The peduncles are tall and thin, bearing small flowers at the top with white oblong petals covered with red or pink specks - freckles. The lower lip is painted a bright orange shade.

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Phalaenopsis is the most unpretentious and common orchid in indoor culture. The Phalaenopsis flower is compact, unpretentious and feels great indoors. Phalaenopsis is grown for its very beautiful flowers, similar in shape to butterflies. The orchid blooms at the beginning of summer, as well as in winter, when most indoor plants have already faded. It has a very long flowering period.

Caring for an indoor Phalaenopsis flower (briefly)

• Alternative names: phalaenopsis, butterfly orchid;
• What species does it belong to - orchids;
• Life expectancy is several decades;
• Difficulty of leaving – 6;
• Temperature – 25-30ºС;
• Watering frequency – once a week, the humidity of the substrate should be controlled;
• Illumination – bright diffused light, can be kept on south-eastern window sills;
• Special instructions - water only by immersing the pot in water; between waterings, the substrate must dry completely.

Description of the plant and its types

Phalaenopsis is a genus of orchids that includes about 70 species. All varieties belong to the monopodial type. They grow with one trunk; side shoots are formed on them extremely rarely.

Phalaenopsis is distinguished by large leathery leaves located sequentially on the trunk. The leaf length is up to 40 cm, but some particularly large species have leaves up to 1 m in length. The leaf color is dark green, but there are hybrid varieties with variegated leaf blades.

Orchids of this genus are epiphytes; they grow on the bark of trees; their root system does not go into the soil.

The roots of these plants are thick and lack root hairs. They are in the open air and have a green tint; photosynthesis processes take place in them. An overgrown specimen is distinguished by a large number of aerial roots that absorb moisture from the atmosphere.

During flowering, the orchid produces a long peduncle on which there are many buds. Flowers open sequentially or simultaneously depending on the type of plant.

One peduncle can contain up to several dozen flowers, similar in shape to butterflies. The colors of the flowers are very diverse; they have white, pink, yellow, lilac shades; hybrid varieties are distinguished by variegated flowering.

Of the many species of this genus, only a few of the most unpretentious varieties are kept in the apartment:

• Phalaenopsis amabilis- a species characterized by long flowering. On its peduncle there can be up to 100 flowers, which open sequentially and have a pleasant smell. Serves as a basis for creating hybrid forms;
• Phalaenopsis giant– a large species, the leaves of which are 60-100 cm long and up to 40 cm wide. It easily crosses with other species, therefore it is valued by orchid breeders;
• Phalaenopsis Luddemann– has an unusual shape and color of flowers, blooms in spring or early summer;
• Phalaenopsis Schiller- a plant characterized by long flowering. Blooms multiple times throughout the year. Up to 200 buds are formed on the peduncle of an adult specimen;
• Phalaenopsis Stewart– a very decorative appearance with marbled leaves. Flowers bloom almost simultaneously; there can be up to 100 of them on a peduncle.

Natural species are quite demanding plants. Most often, various hybrid forms and varieties of phalaenopsis are grown in indoor culture. These flowers are very unpretentious, can grow in residential areas and do not require special conditions. Phalaenopsis orchid - photo of flowers:

Amabilis

Giant

Schiller

How to care for phalaenopsis at home

Hybrid phalaenopsis orchids are able to bloom twice a year - in early summer and winter. Their flowering period is quite long - from 2 to 5 months. Thus, with good care, an adult plant blooms almost continuously all year round.

For regular flowering of orchids you need:

• Correct lighting;
• Compliance with the watering regime;
• Feeding.

In order for the plant to form a large number of buds, it needs bright light, but without direct rays. The brighter the lighting, the longer the flowering continues. And with a lack of light, it may form few buds or not bloom at all.

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Watering is very important for an orchid. It must be remembered that in nature these plants bloom during the dry period that follows the rainy season. A similar regime needs to be created for hybrid forms, even if they bloom twice a year.

During the period after flowering, they need to be watered more often and more abundantly. Before flowering, it is advisable to reduce watering, but not to overdry the plants.

Fertilizers are the main source of nutrition for orchids. These species have adapted to live without soil on tree trunks, and at home they live in a substrate devoid of nutrients. Feeding is vital for them.

Without fertilizer, they will likely slow down and refuse to bloom.

With proper care at home, the Phalaenopsis orchid blooms readily. But there are specimens that refuse to bloom. For them, orchid lovers have come up with flowering stimulants:

• Garlic water– 2-3 cloves of garlic need to be crushed and left for 24 hours in 1 liter of water, stirring regularly. Phalaenopsis is watered with this water once a month;
• Honey water– Dissolve 1-2 teaspoons of honey in 1 liter of water and water the plant once a month.

The effectiveness of these supplements has not been scientifically proven. But amateurs who practice them get constant positive results.

Lighting and temperature conditions

Phalaenopsis orchid needs bright, diffused light. Do not allow direct sunlight to fall on its leaves. This quickly causes sunburn on the leaf blades.

Lighting should be approximately the same at any time of the year.

Bright light promotes the formation of flower buds between blooms. Then flower stalks grow from them. And during flowering, light promotes budding. Without the necessary lighting, orchid buds fall off without having time to grow.

In winter, the plant may not have enough light to bloom.

When caring for a Phalaenopsis orchid at home in winter, it is recommended to supplement it with phytolamps, increasing the daylight hours to 10-11 hours. The most comfortable temperature for phalaenopsis is the range of 25-30ºС.

In the plant’s homeland in the tropics and subequatorial climate zone, the temperature rarely falls below 25ºC and above 32ºC. Daily temperature differences there are insignificant - no more than 5-6ºС.

Therefore, a stable temperature regime is important for the plant.

Some experts talk about stimulating flowering by lowering the temperature and organizing significant changes (from 12 to 25ºC for several weeks). This is not true. These species are not adapted to such changes. Plants should not be tested for strength.

Watering and spraying

Water the orchid using the immersion method. The pot is lowered into ¾ of the water and soaked for 30-40 minutes. After this, it is taken out and the excess water is drained. Watering is carried out approximately once a week. Between waterings, the substrate in the pot should dry completely.

Water for irrigation should be warm and settled for 2-3 days.

You can control a plant’s need for moisture by the color of its roots. Phalaenopsis roots, which can absorb water, are greyish-green. After watering, when they are saturated with water, they turn bright green. If, after some time after watering, the green color of the roots remains, it is too early to water the plant.

For proper development of an orchid, air humidity should be 60-70%. Drier air, which occurs only in the summer heat or during the heating season, is recommended to be humidified. The best way to do this is with a humidifier. You can also place flowers in a deep tray with moistened moss or expanded clay.

If water gets on flowers or buds, the plant may drop them. To moisten the leaves and remove dust, it is recommended to wipe them with a damp cloth.

Soil and fertilizer

Phalaenopsis cannot be grown in soil. The roots of an orchid planted in the soil quickly rot because they need access to air.

To plant these plants at home, use a special loose substrate based on dry pine bark.

The bark of other trees can also be used in its composition. Orchid substrate can be purchased at a flower shop. After purchasing it, you need to sift it, as sometimes peat is added to it, which the plant does not need. Also, during sifting, unnecessary fine fraction is separated.

Then the substrate is poured with boiling water and left for a day. During this time it will become saturated with moisture. Boiling water is also used to heat treat the substrate against pests and fungi. Mixing the substrate for orchids yourself is not difficult. Its optimal composition contains the following components:

• Pine bark – 4 parts;
• Sphagnum moss – 2 parts;
• Fern roots or pine needles – 1 part;
• Charcoal – 1 part.

The bark for adult plants should have a fraction of 0.8-1 cm. For planting, use special transparent pots with a large number of drainage holes. Drainage is not needed for these plants.

Phalaenopsis is fed with special fertilizers for orchids. They are diluted with water according to the instructions and the plant is watered in the usual way - by immersion. Feed every 2 weeks. If there are no special fertilizers, you can use regular compounds for flowering plants. They are diluted to obtain 2 times less concentration than indicated in the instructions.

Possible diseases and pests

Phalaenopsis is a plant that is demanding in terms of living conditions. If you make mistakes in caring for a Phalaenopsis flower at home, it can become seriously ill. With improper watering, overmoistening of the substrate and water getting into the rosette of leaves, the following may develop:

• Root rot– can only be treated by transplanting into a new substrate with the removal of all rotten roots;
• Leaf and stem rot– the plant can be saved only by removing all diseased areas and treating it with an antifungal drug.

Root rot

Leaf and stem rot

If the lighting is incorrect, the following problems arise:

• Leaf burns– when direct sun hits the flower;
• Growth slowdown and dropping buds - in insufficient light.

With a lack of water, phalaenopsis leaves wither, lose color, turn yellow and dry out. The same thing happens with a lack of nutrition.

Often an orchid suffers from harmful insects, which can not only deprive it of its decorative properties for a long time, but even kill it. These plants are attacked by:

• Red spider mite;
• Thrips;
• Shchitovka;
• Mealybug.

Red spider mite

Trips

Shchitovka

Mealybug

If pests are detected, you must immediately treat the ground part with one of the following preparations:

• Acaricide– a means of combating ticks;
• Insecticide- a means of combating harmful insects.

The plant is treated repeatedly with an interval of 7-10 days until the pests are completely destroyed.

Reproduction methods and transplant rules

In apartment conditions, phalaenopsis is propagated only vegetatively. Seed propagation is not possible and can only be successfully carried out in laboratory conditions. There are the following vegetative methods of propagation of these orchids: division of the trunk and formation of children.

Under normal conditions, phalaenopsis does not form side shoots. But if you cut off its top, the stump will send out shoots from dormant buds. Therefore, an overgrown plant with a large number of aerial roots can be divided into 2 parts.

The top with roots is cut off and planted in a separate pot. They leave the stump and continue to look after it. Over time, 1 or 2 side shoots are formed on it, which later form roots. These shoots can also be separated and planted in individual pots.

Children are formed in the hot season on peduncles. If the orchid has faded, the peduncle does not need to be cut off.

Perhaps in the summer a small plant with its own roots will grow on it - a baby. But if the baby does not appear, you can stimulate its growth by treating the dormant phalaenopsis buds on the peduncle with cytokinin paste.

Phalaenopsis is replanted only when necessary. He needs a transplant if:

• The substrate is compacted and does not allow air to pass through;
• The root system has grown greatly and does not fit in the pot.

The orchid is transplanted into a new pot that can accommodate the overgrown root system.

The Phalaenopsis orchid pot should be made of transparent plastic or glass so that light can pass to the roots of the plant. The orchid is removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned of the old substrate. If there are pieces of old substrate left on the roots, they are not removed.

The orchid is placed in a new pot and the space between the roots is filled with new orchid mixture. Before use, it is soaked in water. To fill the pot, use a stick or pencil. There is no special pruning of the orchid. You need to trim off old yellowed peduncles and remove dry leaves from phalaenopsis.

Reanimation of the butterfly orchid

Despite its demands on external conditions, it is difficult to destroy a flower. If you care for a Phalaenopsis flower for a long time and incorrectly, then the orchid at home will not grow or bloom, but it will remain alive for a very long time. You can often see plants without leaves and without roots, as well as with a rotten growing point, among inexperienced and careless gardeners.

Usually such specimens are thrown away, but they can be revived. The technology for resuscitating orchids is very simple. But this is a long process. Let's look at some common problems and their solutions.

How to grow leaves on phalaenopsis

Stumps with a good root system, but without leaves, are not uncommon among inexperienced gardeners. Usually the plant loses its leaves due to dryness, compacted substrate or lack of feeding. If the root system is in order and there is an intact growth point, then growing leaves is quite simple.

The stump is transplanted into a new substrate, and then placed in a greenhouse or covered with a plastic bag.

Water and fertilize it regularly, following all the rules of watering and fertilizing. The leaves won't grow back anytime soon. It may take 1-2 months or even more until the orchid begins to grow.

How to grow roots

But it often happens the other way around - the orchid leaves are in place and in good condition, but the roots are rotten or completely missing. They can rot if improperly watered or too dry.

If the plant has rotten roots, they must be removed.

They grow roots by turning the orchid over and placing its leaves in water. The depth of water should not exceed 2 cm. Within 1-2 months, young roots will form on the flower. They need to be increased to at least 3 pieces so that the plant can be planted in the substrate.

What to do with phalaenopsis without a growing point

Water can get to the growing point of the orchid and cause it to rot. This copy should also not be thrown away. It needs to be dried and the rot removed down to living tissue. Then such a stump is cared for as in the case of growing leaves.

But the leaves won't appear here. Only the peduncle on which the baby is formed may appear. Sometimes even several flower stalks grow. Children whose roots have grown are separated and transplanted into separate pots.

The most common orchid in indoor floriculture. It so happened that in 95% of cases, when asked “Tell me! They gave me an orchid, but I don’t know what it’s called,” it turns out that the gift was phalaenopsis. What determines such love for this particular orchid, and not for dendrobium or, say, ascocenda?

"A matter of taste!" - someone will say, and they will be right. Another will add - “It’s easy to grow!” - and he won’t be wrong either. "She's beautiful!" - and this is certain. It turns out that external attractiveness and ease of maintenance determine the popularity of a plant? Exactly!

Although this was not always the case with phalaenopsis. The fact is that until 1995, Russia was supplied mostly with species orchids, that is, natural species taken directly from natural conditions and propagated in open ground or in greenhouses. But the conditions of the premises - apartments, offices, etc. were not suitable for these orchids; there they either did not reveal their decorative potential, that is, they did not bloom or bloomed weakly, or they died very quickly. But after 1995, only hybrid orchids began to go on sale. Why? Because their removal from natural habitats, often barbarically, leads to the threat of species extinction. Hybridization has come to the rescue - the resulting hybrids are propagated in industrial conditions, hybrid orchids bloom no worse than natural species. Moreover, the breeders took care of both the duration of flowering and the fact that orchids could live better in unnatural conditions for themselves.

But you should never forget that when buying a plant, you are acquiring a living organism that requires tireless care! Unfortunately, judging by the number of questions asked on the site forum and to our telephone service operators, the conclusion is disappointing - people either don’t understand this or are hoping for the eternal Russian “maybe” - maybe it will somehow grow. This is very annoying. With this approach, a person torments the plant and suffers himself, not getting what he expected. What's the end result? - disappointment. To reduce disappointment, let's change our attitude towards plants and feel that we are responsible for those we have tamed.

Let's consider the main points of caring for phalaenopsis, adhering to which, you can enjoy the lush green leaves and the stunning beauty of butterfly flowers for a long time.

Lighting, temperature, spraying

It is best to keep an orchid on an east or west window; you can also keep it in the back of the room under a white fluorescent lamp or under a phytolamp special for plants. Supplemental lighting is especially important in the autumn-winter period; the length of daylight should be at least 14 hours.

The optimal temperature in summer is +20-25°C, in winter +16-18°C. To stimulate flowering, it is important that the orchid experiences a temperature difference of 3-5 degrees between day and night. In winter, at temperatures above +25°C, almost no flowering is observed.

The great adaptability of phalaenopsis to the conditions of detention should be taken into account. Of course, if conditions are created that closely match natural requirements, the orchid will live longer and bloom more often.

Leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature regularly, at least 3-5 times a day, especially in winter when the heating system is on, when air humidity is very low.

During the flowering period, you need to spray very carefully, trying not to get it on the flowers - water causes brown spots to appear on the petals, which reduces the decorative effect and leads to the rapid fall of the flowers.

Transfer

The orchid needs to change the substrate as the bark deteriorates and the substrate becomes denser. This is usually done once every 3-4 years. Special substrates “For orchids” are used. It is better to replant in the spring, when growth processes are activated and the orchid tolerates post-transplant stress more easily. The plant survives transplantation worse in the autumn-winter period and recovers more slowly. Do not replant during flowering, otherwise it will end faster.

For phalaenopsis, transparent plastic pots are a more suitable container - the roots of this orchid photosynthesize in the same way as the leaves, that is, the roots need light. When replanting, remove dry, empty, dead roots and old substrate. Very carefully separate the roots that have stuck to the walls of the pot (to do this, an hour before replanting, you need to water, thoroughly moistening the substrate and roots, then they are separated from the walls of the pot more easily). Pieces of bark to which roots have stuck do not need to be removed.

After replanting for two months, it is useful to add Zircon to the irrigation water once every 2 weeks at the rate of 2-3 drops per glass of water - this will help the orchid to take root faster. Any transplant usually delays flowering by 1.5-2 months. There are cases when an orchid blooms immediately after transplantation - stress from damage to the roots affects plants in different ways.

Watering

Orchids are watered in two ways - from a watering can through the top of the pot or by immersion in a container of water.

During the flowering period, it is better to water from a watering can so as not to change the location of the plant, which can cause it to drop flowers. Watering must be carried out in such a way that the substrate and roots dry out once a week. If you keep the roots in a constantly damp or wet substrate, the risk of root rot increases, and the substrate breaks down faster.

When phalaenopsis does not bloom, it is best to water it using the immersion method - the pot is immersed in a bucket of water for 1-2 minutes (until air bubbles stop running). After such submersible watering, you need to let the excess water drain, and only after that return the orchid to its place.

The temperature of the irrigation water should be equal to the air temperature, or even better if the water is 3-4 degrees warmer than the air. The maximum water temperature is +28°C (warmer water burns and scalds the roots). The water must be allowed to stand for 24 hours and be soft.

If the water is still hard (it contains a lot of lime salts, as can be seen from the white stains on the leaves after spraying and the whitish-yellow coating on the surface of the substrate after watering), then the amount of lime in it needs to be reduced.

To do this you can:

• Boil the water for 20 minutes, and take it from a hot tap (it contains less lime than cold water, because it has already boiled at least once);
• Freeze in a plastic bottle, then cut off the bottom and drain the unfrozen water and salts;
• Add oxalic acid to 1 liter of water (at the tip of a knife). After this, the water should stand for 2-4 days until a white precipitate of salts appears at the bottom.

Top dressing

Fertilizers are used specialized, “For orchids”.

Fertilizing during the flowering period in summer is carried out 2-3 times a month, during the flowering period in autumn and winter they are fed 2-3 or 1-2 times a month, but the concentration of the fertilizer is reduced by half from that indicated in the instructions.

During the period of absence of flowering, you can not feed or feed once a month, not more often.

To remove excess salts, rinse the soil under running warm water for 15-20 minutes once a month.

Reproduction

In indoor conditions, the easiest way to propagate phalaenopsis is vegetatively - by lateral shoots. They can form both at the base of the leaf rosette and on the peduncle. In both cases, you need to wait for the baby to form its own roots (at least one root), and only then plant it in its own pot.

Content issues

The cause of most problems is non-compliance or violation of containment conditions. If you treat the plant more carefully, there will be fewer problems.

What usually scares a gardener? If the orchid does not bloom, if the leaves turn yellow or change in some other way, etc. I’ll try to answer these “ifs”:

• An orchid does not bloom if it does not have enough light, if it is constantly kept at a temperature above +25°C, if it is exposed to sudden changes in air and soil temperatures (drafts), when watered with cold water, from a lack or excess of nutrition, after a recent transplant;
• The leaves turn yellow as if for a natural reason - they grow old (the lower leaves are physiologically the oldest and should die first - this is normal), and if the upper leaves turn yellow and become sluggish - the substrate was over-moistened or over-dried, sudden hypothermia, or freezing of the plant;
• If, after flowering, the peduncle immediately begins to turn yellow, you need to wait until it dries itself and only then remove it. The formation of a new peduncle, depending on the strength of the plant itself and its care, can take from six months to two years. If the peduncle remains alive and green within 2-3 weeks after flowering, do not remove it - after 2-4 months, flowering may resume on it or a baby will form on it;
• If affected by pests - spider mites, mealybugs and others, use the preparations Agravertin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Neoron (according to the instructions). Against diseases (as a rule, these are various rots), it is enough to follow the rules of watering, but treatment may also be required. Then use a biological preparation, for example, Fitosporin-M (in liquid form) - even if you use only it, this is enough to heal plants and for further prevention of diseases.

The plants in our apartments depend almost completely on us - we decide when to water, feed, replant... However, we should not make these decisions spontaneously, but depending on the needs of the plant in a given specific period of growth and in specific conditions - it’s cold in the apartment or hot, light or dark, etc. Moreover, we must evaluate these conditions not only according to our own criteria, but also take into account the needs of the plants. After all, for a person a change in temperature of 1 degree is practically not noticeable, but for a plant it is severe stress.

According to a common saying, a plant, like a person, gets used to everything. Let's make sure that the coexistence of plants and humans is not burdensome, but as comfortable and useful as possible.

Orchids on the windowsill are the dream of most amateur gardeners. But many do not dare to plant them, fearing difficulties during the work. Indeed, these flowers are quite capricious. But there are exceptions, for example, the phalaenopsis orchid. They look no less impressive than other varieties, and caring for them at home is incomparably easier. The flower is quite suitable for a novice gardener who wants to “practice” before starting to cultivate Cattleyas, Miltonias and Ludisias.

What does a phalaenopsis orchid look like?

Phalaenopsis is one of the many representatives of the Orchidaceae family, a perennial epiphytic plant. In nature, most varieties of this orchid can be found in Southeast Asia, the Philippines, Indonesia, and other islands of the Malay Archipelago. They also grow in other regions with a humid tropical climate.

In nature, phalaenopsis most often settles on tree trunks, using them as support.

The plant owes its name (“phalaenopsis” meaning “moth-like”) to a curiosity. One night in the dark, the director of the Leiden Botanical Garden, Karl Ludwig Blume, who was studying the flora of one of the islands between Asia and Australia, mistook these flowers for butterflies.

The average height of an orchid is 50–70 cm. The stem is very short. The leaves are large, fleshy to the touch, up to 30–35 cm long. Each orchid produces a maximum of 4–6 leaves at a time, and no more than two per year.

The stem of phalaenopsis is almost invisible, there are no pseudobulbs, the peduncle is often bent

The root system of the plant is very developed, because in nature it absorbs moisture and nutrients mostly directly from the air. Healthy roots are greenish-silver in color. Phalaenopsis is an epiphyte, so it does not have the pseudobulbs typical of most other orchids.

The roots of phalaenopsis are covered with a thick layer of velamen - tissue with which the plant draws moisture and nutrients from the air.

In North America and Western Europe, phalaenopsis are practically “disposable” plants. You buy a blooming orchid, and when the flowering ends, it is simply thrown away.

The height of the curved peduncle reaches 70–80 cm. Each of them contains from five to twenty or more flowers with a diameter of 3–8 cm. The central petal (labellum or so-called lip) contrasts sharply with the rest, standing out with a brighter color and/or a pattern of specks, strokes, stripes, spots. The most common colors are different shades of pink, yellow, lilac, green, as well as white and creamy beige. Buds are formed at any time of the year; this orchid does not have a clearly defined dormant period. Flowering, depending on the species, lasts from two months to six months.

Phalaenopsis is distinguished by the duration and abundance of flowering

Video: description of phalaenopsis

Varieties popular among gardeners

There are about 40 varieties of phalaenopsis found in nature. But not everyone has adapted to the climate of modern apartments, which is radically different from their usual conditions.

Most often, gardeners grow:

• Phalaenopsis horse (Equestris). It grows naturally in Taiwan and the Philippines. The peduncle is inky purple. When the first buds bloom, it gradually lengthens, and more and more new flowers are formed. Due to this, flowering extends for 4–5 months. The flowers are pastel pink, medium-sized (2–3 cm in diameter). Under optimal conditions, it blooms twice a year - in spring and autumn.
• Phalaenopsis staghorn (Cornucervi). Most common on the islands of Kalimantan and Sumatra. The name is due to the unusual shape of the peduncle - it is flattened, branched, with small outgrowths where the buds form. Its height is about 40 cm. There are 7–12 flowers on each peduncle. The petals are greenish-yellow with red spots, the “lip” is snow-white.
• Phalaenopsis lovely or pleasant (Amabilis). One of the most common varieties in home floriculture. The height of the plant is about 70 cm, the length of the drooping, intensively branching peduncle is up to 1.5 m. Each of them has 20–30 flowers with creamy-white or pinkish-yellow petals and a white-yellow-purple “lip”. In nature, their number reaches one hundred. The diameter of the flower is 8 cm or more. Peak flowering occurs in late spring and early summer. The buds emit a pleasant aroma reminiscent of orange blossom.
• Phalaenopsis Stuart (Stuartiana). It stands out for its variegated leaves. The peduncle is intensively branched, on each “shoot” there are 15–20 flowers with a diameter of 4–5 cm. The main color of the petals is white or cream (with a dark scarlet spot at the base), the “lip” is orange-yellow with small burgundy spots. Blooms mainly in winter.
• Schiller's Phalaenopsis (Schilleriana). “Parent” of most breeding hybrids. Found naturally only in the Philippines. The bright green leaves on the outside are covered with silver and dark emerald spots, the underside is dull red. Peduncle up to 1 m high. Flowers with a diameter of 6–7 cm. The petals are pinkish-purple, the rich shade at the base gradually fades closer to the tip. The “lip” is forked, somewhat similar to a two-pronged fork. Peak flowering occurs in winter. Mature plants that are properly cared for often form entire cascades of buds.
• Phalaenopsis Lueddemanniana. The plant is about 15–20 cm high, the peduncle extends up to 30 cm. Each has a maximum of 7 flowers with a diameter of 3–4 cm, which have a pleasant, unobtrusive aroma. The petals are lilac-pink, sometimes there are inclusions and stripes, white, as well as various shades of yellow and burgundy. Blooms almost all year round. The leaves are light, salad-colored.
• Phalaenopsis Sander (Sanderiana). Quite a rare variety. The leaves are variegated. Peduncles 1.5 m high or more, drooping. Each has up to 50 buds. The petals are white-lilac, the “lip” is cream, with yellow streaks. Peak flowering occurs in summer.
• Pink Phalaenopsis (Rosea). A natural miniature orchid no more than 10–15 cm high. Leaf length is 8–10 cm. The peduncle is curved, it has 10–16 flowers with a diameter of up to 3 cm. The petals can be white-pink or crimson.
• Phalaenopsis Parish (Parishii). Another natural miniature orchid. The height of the peduncle is up to 15 cm, the length of the rich green leaves is about 20 cm. On each peduncle, 8–10 small (1.5–2 cm in diameter) flowers with petals of a cream or vanilla shade simultaneously bloom. The “lip” is very wide, colored dark burgundy or purple. The aroma is rich, sugary-sweet, like candy.
• Giant Phalaenopsis (Gigantea). The name, as you might guess, is due to its size. The leaf length is up to 1 m, the peduncles are short, only 40–50 cm. Each produces 25–30 buds with a diameter of 5–7 cm. The flowers have a faint odor, reminiscent of the aroma of citrus fruits. The color of the petals varies from white and pale yellow to lime and olive. Characteristic is a pattern of purple or chocolate spots and stripes.
• Ambonian phalaenopsis (Amboinensis). The length of the leaves and the height of the curved peduncle are approximately 25–30 cm. Every year a new peduncle is formed on the orchid, while the old ones continue to grow and branch. Accordingly, flowering gradually becomes more abundant. Up to 10 buds are formed on each branch, but they bloom one by one. The orchid blooms mainly in summer. The color of the petals varies from pale yellow to golden orange. The pattern is dull red or brownish stripes.
• Phalaenopsis Philadelphia (Philadelphia). A very popular breeding hybrid, bred on the basis of Schiller and Stewart's phalaenopsis. The flowers are 4–6 cm in diameter and are colored in various shades of pink and purple. Valued for its unpretentiousness and cascading flowering.
• Hieroglyphica Phalaenopsis. Another common hybrid. The height of the leaves and peduncle is 30–35 cm. The flowers seem to be made of wax, with a pleasant aroma. There are 3–6 of them on each peduncle. The petals are snow-white, covered with a pattern of pink and burgundy specks and strokes.
• Phalaenopsis Royal Blue. Forms two peduncles at the same time. The petals are sky blue, the “lip” is dark blue. The height of the peduncle is about 60 cm, the diameter of the flower is 8–10 cm. The duration of flowering depends on how regularly fertilizing was applied.
• Phalaenopsis Black Butterfly. Selective hybrid. The flowers are large, up to 10 cm in diameter. The petals are very dark purple with a thin white border along the edge. “Lip” is white-yellow-lilac.
• Phalaenopsis Golden Beauty. 2–3 peduncles are formed on the plant at the same time, each with 15 flowers or more. The petals are pale yellow, with a white spot at the base. The “lip” is pink, crimson or scarlet.
• Phalaenopsis Mini-Mark Maria Teresa. It is considered the best variety in the Mini-Mark series of hybrids. Leaf length is no more than 15 cm. The flowers are small, 3–4 cm in diameter. The petals are snow-white, strewn with small specks of different shades of yellow, orange and pink. “Lip” is terracotta. Flowering lasts 3–4 months.
• Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan. Quite a rare hybrid. It was developed back in the 19th century, but has not yet lost its popularity. The height of the orchid is about 50 cm. The petals are crimson or crimson, covered with burgundy spots with a white border. The “lip” is a dark cherry shade.
• Phalaenopsis Harlequin. One of the so-called novelty-phalaenopsis hybrids originally from Taiwan. They are characterized by a compact rosette of leaves, the presence of numerous peduncles and a regular flower shape, similar to a star. This hybrid has lemon-yellow petals covered with rounded burgundy spots. In the light they shine glossy, as if varnished.

Varieties of phalaenopsis grown at home, pictured

Phalaenopsis equina, if favorable conditions are created for it, blooms twice a year. Phalaenopsis staghorn owes its name to the unusual shape of the peduncle. Phalaenopsis charming is one of the most popular varieties among gardeners. Stewart's Phalaenopsis can be identified by its variegated leaves. Schiller's Phalaenopsis is widely used by breeders to breed new varieties of orchids. Flowering in Phalaenopsis Luddeman is almost continuous Phalaenopsis Sander is one of the rarest varieties of this orchid Phalaenopsis pink is a miniature orchid created by nature Phalaenopsis Parish stands out for its unusual “lip” shape The giant phalaenopsis deserves its name because of its size Every year, Phalaenopsis Ambonese blooms more and more abundantly Phalaenopsis Philadelphia - one of the most common breeding hybrids. The pattern on the petals of hieroglyphic phalaenopsis, indeed, resembles writing in an unknown language. When buying Royal Blue phalaenopsis, like other orchids of this shade, you need to be very careful - often their petals turn out to be simply painted
Phalaenopsis Black Butterfly has petals of a very dark shade. Phalaenopsis Golden Beauty is distinguished by its abundance of flowering. Phalaenopsis Mini-Mark Maria Teresa is one of the most successful miniature hybrids. Phalaenopsis Amsterdam Jordan was bred more than a hundred years ago, but is still popular with gardeners. The petals of the phalaenopsis Harlequin are glossy, like as if varnished

Optimal growing conditions

The humid subtropical climate familiar to orchids is radically different from the conditions of modern apartments. Nevertheless, they successfully adapted to them. When caring for a phalaenopsis orchid at home, nothing supernatural is required from the gardener.

Table: what conditions do phalaenopsis need?

It is not advisable to place phalaenopsis on a south-facing window, if there is simply no other place; the plants must be shaded, protecting them from direct sunlight

Phalaenopsis tend to reach for the sun, so every 15–20 days the pot is turned 180º. The exception is the period before flowering. While the buds are forming, the peduncle is carefully tied to a support in the form of a peg. Their pedicels “harden” after about two weeks, after which they will no longer be able to change position.

Material on growing Bauhinia, whose flowers resemble orchids in shape, will also be useful:

Planting and transplanting procedure

Phalaenopsis, like any other orchid, will grow and bloom only in a suitable substrate, which bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word. Therefore, a plant bought in a store needs to be replanted as quickly as possible. You can purchase a special soil mixture for orchids or make it yourself from small pieces of charcoal, dry sphagnum moss, coconut fiber, pine bark, and dried fern roots. All ingredients are taken in approximately equal proportions.

Soil for orchids is not at all like soil in the usual sense of the word.

Choose a transparent pot - this makes it easier to control the condition of the roots. In addition, they are involved in photosynthesis in orchids. At the bottom there must be a layer of drainage at least 2–3 cm thick made of expanded clay or foam chips. It is desirable that the container has “legs” - in this case, the substrate does not come into contact with the water in the pan.

A transparent pot allows you to monitor the condition of the roots and substrate and regulate the frequency of watering

The soil becomes unusable quite quickly, it becomes salty and cakes. Therefore, phalaenopsis plants are replanted annually. Any time is suitable for the procedure, with the exception of the flowering period. To remove an orchid from a pot, it is soaked in warm water for several hours. You can replace it with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent fungal diseases.

The roots are cleared of pieces of bark. Dried and dead areas are cut off, the sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk, activated carbon, and cinnamon. Then it is advisable to dry them for 6–8 hours. The phalaenopsis is transferred to a new pot, the substrate is filled in without compacting it. In this case, the plant must be stable in the pot. Approximately 3/4 of the container volume needs to be filled with soil. If the aerial roots are sticking out, this is normal.

There is nothing complicated about transplanting an orchid; even a novice gardener can handle the procedure.

During the first week, the transplanted orchid is especially carefully protected from direct sunlight. It is watered for the first time only after 5–7 days, fertilizing is applied no earlier than a month later.

It is also practiced to grow phalaenopsis (especially miniature ones) on pieces of bark, driftwood, and pressed coconut fiber, imitating their natural habitat. Such compositions look very impressive. The orchid roots are wrapped in a layer of sphagnum moss and securely attached to the support using pieces of wire. Water such plants by spraying sphagnum moss.

Phalaenopsis in compositions that imitate the natural habitat of an orchid look very impressive

Video: how to properly transplant an orchid

Important nuances of plant care at home

Phalaenopsis is one of the most unpretentious orchids. Even a novice gardener can take care of it. The plant does not have a clearly defined dormant period, so throughout the year watering and fertilizing are carried out in almost the same mode.

Water for irrigation is used only soft and settled, at room temperature. The frequency is adjusted based on the weather outside. In any case, you need to let the substrate dry completely. This can be determined by the fact that condensation stops forming on the walls of the pot.

If in doubt, it is better to wait a few more days. Phalaenopsis will tolerate this quite easily. But frequent and abundant watering of the plant is strictly contraindicated. Under normal conditions, once every 3-4 days is enough.

As a general rule, the colder it is outside, the less light and the finer the substrate fraction, the less often orchids are watered. Watering at night is not recommended.

Orchids are watered using the immersion method. The pot with the plant is lowered into a container of water so that it completely covers the soil. As soon as the bubbles stop coming out, the orchid is removed from the container and dried well.

Water phalaenopsis using immersion methods, or at least so that drops of water do not fall into the axils of the leaves.

Once every 2-3 months it is useful to rinse the substrate to get rid of excess salts. Keep the pot under running water for 5–10 minutes.

Fertilizing is applied every 10–12 days. Fertilizers are chosen that are specifically designed for orchids. Before this, the plant must be watered. Foliar feeding is also practiced, but in this case you need to make sure that drops of the solution do not get into the axils of the leaves, flowers and buds. The concentration of the product is reduced by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer.

To feed phalaenopsis, choose special products for orchids

The fact that phalaenopsis lacks nutrients is indicated by “torn” or “corrugated” edges of the petals.

Phalaenopsis flowering

Phalaenopsis flowers can appear at any time. Particular attention should be paid to temperature - the hotter the room, the faster the blooming buds dry and fall off. Ethylene, which is released by ripe fruits, especially apples and bananas, has a similar effect.

To stimulate flowering, it is recommended to reduce watering to the required minimum for 2–3 weeks and lower the temperature to 16–18ºС. The difference between day and night temperatures is required to be at least 5ºC. Practice shows that “summer” flower stalks are shorter than “winter” ones, and the buds on them are arranged more closely, almost without intervals.

In order for a peduncle to form on a phalaenopsis, a slight temperature difference during the day is required.

After flowering has ended, if the peduncle has not dried out completely, cut off only that part of it that has changed color and dried out, covering the cut with green paint. From the buds remaining on it, lateral “shoots” will form, and buds will form on them. This procedure is undesirable only for young and miniature phalaenopsis; prolonged flowering greatly weakens them.

Flowering phalaenopsis is a well-deserved reward for the gardener

Typical gardener mistakes

Often the grower himself is to blame for the deterioration in the appearance of the phalaenopsis orchid. It is necessary to correct individual mistakes in care in time, and the condition of the plant will return to normal.

Table: how errors in orchid care manifest themselves

Yellowing leaves indicate improper watering in combination with less than ideal conditions for keeping the orchid.

Diseases, pests and their control

With proper care, phalaenopsis rarely suffers from diseases and pests. However, not a single gardener is immune from this. Therefore, do not forget about preventive measures:

• regular ventilation of the room;
• free, uncrowded placement of flower pots on the windowsill;
• minimum two-week “quarantine” for newly purchased copies;
• use only sharpened tools for any work with the plant, treating all “wounds”;
• Immediate removal from the windowsill of specimens with suspicious symptoms.

Table: diseases and pests typical of phalaenopsis

External manifestations of symptoms of phalaenopsis damage by diseases and pests: photos

Spider mites are not insects, so special drugs are used to combat them - acaricides Aphids are one of the most “omnivorous” pests of indoor plants; they will not disdain orchids either. Folk remedies in the fight against scale insects are ineffective - the pest is reliably protected by a durable shell. Small black “sticks” on the leaves are nothing more than the thrips themselves. The development of anthracnose is promoted by stale air in indoors and high air humidity Powdery mildew seems like a harmless coating that can be easily wiped off from a leaf, but in fact it is a dangerous disease. When cutting off parts of a leaf affected by brown bacterial rot, you need to also capture part of the tissue that seems healthy in appearance. Root rot of an orchid is treatable only if the disease was noticed at an early stage of development. Orchids that have optimal or close to optimal conditions suffer from fusarium quite rarely

Reproduction methods

At home, phalaenopsis reproduces by vegetative methods. - a very complex and time-consuming procedure, which also requires absolute sterility and the use of special nutritional compounds. It is also impossible to guarantee compliance with varietal characteristics. The optimal time for reproduction is the end of winter and spring.

Reproduction by "offspring"

Phalaenopsis “babies” are formed at a slightly lower temperature (20–21ºС). Under normal conditions, the plant will most likely produce a flower stalk. Most often they form at the base of the stem or from “dormant” buds on the peduncle. The latter can be treated with cytokinin paste.

“Children” of phalaenopsis are formed mainly on the peduncle

The “offsprings” are left on the orchid until the leaves on them grow to 2–3 cm in length, and the roots to 5–6 cm. The “children” are separated from the mother plant, planted in a separate small pot, and cared for like an adult orchid . Until they begin to grow, it is advisable to cover the container with a plastic bag or a cut-off plastic bottle.

Cytokinin paste is a drug that stimulates flowering and reproduction of orchids

Video: rooting phalaenopsis “babies”

Reproduction by peduncles

The peduncle that remains green after flowering, 1.5–2 months after all the buds have fallen, is cut off at the base and divided into 4–5 parts no more than 20 cm long. Each of them should have a growth bud. The cuts are made at an angle of 40–45º.

Each part of the peduncle must have a growth bud

Then they are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon and crushed chalk. The “cuttings” are placed horizontally in a container filled with fine expanded clay or sand, and covered with damp sphagnum moss on top. Cover the container with a plastic bag or glass cap. In order for the growth buds to “wake up”, a temperature of at least 25–27ºС, daylight hours of 14–16 hours and lower heating are required. The “greenhouse” is ventilated daily to get rid of accumulated condensation, and the substrate is maintained in a moderately moist state.

The “greenhouse” with cuttings must be regularly ventilated, otherwise the development of rot is very likely

Video: propagation of phalaenopsis by cuttings

Plant division

The method is suitable only for absolutely healthy, powerful and developed plants. They have at least 6–8 leaves in a rosette. To get a new orchid, the top of the old one is cut off. It must have aerial roots. The cut areas are sprinkled with any powdered biostimulant and disinfected. The top is transplanted into a separate container. Flowering can be expected from it in 2–3 years.

After division, the orchid “comes to its senses” for quite some time.