Caring for potatoes after germination: useful tips. Potatoes don't sprout, what should I do? Why don't potatoes sprout in the ground?

For many rural residents and summer residents, the issue of planting potatoes is always relevant. Growing potatoes is labor-intensive, but very important and necessary. However, more and more often, villagers are faced with the problem of germination and are looking for an answer to the question of why potatoes do not sprout. There may be several reasons, but it is still worth considering that the yield is determined by the seeds.

So, one of the main reasons for the lack of seedlings is poor quality planting material. Sometimes there are no eyes on potatoes, in which case there is nothing for the stems to develop from. In addition, the lack of seedlings may be a consequence of improper storage. seed material(for example, frozen tubers).

Another important factor that affects the germination of potatoes is extreme heat. Therefore, having missed the time for April planting, it is sometimes useless to plant tubers in May. In the central regions of our country, air temperatures often reach 30 degrees in May, which has a detrimental effect on potatoes, which cannot develop in such conditions. Therefore, seedlings do not appear until the rains. Sometimes regular watering can save the situation.

Among other reasons, experts cite planting in unheated soil and the presence of pests in the garden. The same mole cricket can gnaw the sprouts on the tubers, and the potatoes will not sprout.

Poor potato germination means the complete absence of sprouts when sprouting tubers in the spring.

Even without knowing the potato variety and without seeing the tuber, one can assume that the seed material is affected by an infectious disease called gothic (spindly tubers). This infection potatoes were very widespread in the southern regions, and are now found in middle lane Russia, and even in its northern regions. This is perhaps the main reason for the poor germination of potato tubers today.

The disease is transmitted through tubers and root systems during watering. Sick plants are stunted in growth, the edges of the leaves, especially the upper ones, curl upward. The tubers are elongated and resemble a spindle.

Measures to prevent spindle-shaped potato tubers (gothic). The main measure is complete replacement their seed potatoes with healthy planting material of productive varieties. In the future, select from apparently healthy productive bushes that have a tuber shape typical for the variety.

Important to know when growing seed potatoes: plant seed potatoes in areas well supplied with moisture, beware of applying excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers, remove tops 5-7 days before harvesting.

Other reasons for poor germination: hypothermia of potatoes if they were stored at low temperatures and were not warmed up before planting; This also happens when sprouts are repeatedly broken off during warm storage.

The value of second bread in human nutrition is great. It’s hard to imagine a daily menu without crumbly tubers. And when potatoes grow poorly and what to do about it, every summer resident needs to know. Causes of crop failure vegetable crop maybe several. Each of them manifests itself under certain conditions. And correctly carried out agricultural technology does not always contribute to crop growth. Both weather and climate disasters interfere with the development of potatoes.

The reason for the low potato yield lies in:

• soil depletion when planting a vegetable every year in the same place;
• incorrectly selected plant variety for a particular region;
• defects in planting tubers;
• unsuitable air temperature;
• diseases and pests of vegetable crops.

To get enough tubers High Quality in the fall, you need to create the necessary conditions for potato growth. If you don't take care of your potato bushes enough, you won't be able to get a lot of root crops. But excessive waterlogging of the soil in a potato field and excess nitrogen in the soil will produce low-quality fruits, small and rotten, saturated with nitrates.

Varieties

Breeders delight with new potato varieties every year, but elite types of vegetables also require appropriate growing technology. It is best for summer residents to select vegetable varieties that are most adapted to climatic conditions growing area, unpretentious in terms of care.

In order for the bushes to grow on time and the tubers to reach technical maturity, it is necessary to plant a vegetable early varieties- in the northern regions. Varieties such as Spring Pink and Spring White will produce a large harvest of fruit 45 days after germination. After all, each bush will have up to 10-15 tubers.

Potato varieties Nevsky and Sudarynya are effective and high-yielding. They produce harvests 80 days after planting. Mid-season types of vegetables are used in regions with a temperate climate and unpredictable weather conditions in the summer.

These potato varieties are popular because they rarely get sick and grow actively on poor lands during hot, dry seasons.

For late ripening varieties sites located in areas with big amount heat. The potatoes will have time to ripen and produce large tubers for consumption.

No suitable variety

The number of potato varieties is so large that it is difficult to choose the right one to plant in your garden. In addition to weather conditions, to purchase seed material for planting, you must proceed from:

• cultivation purposes: for summer menu or winter storage;
• vegetable yield;
• plant resistance to viral infection, late blight;
• percentage of starch in tubers;
• the taste of tubers, their structure after cooking.

It is best to plant potato varieties that are bred by local breeders. After all, hybrids from Holland, Germany and other foreign countries do not always take root well. Their harvest depends on high agricultural technology, appropriate soil, characterized by fertility.

Poor quality seeds for planting

Incorrectly selected planting material is common cause poor growth potatoes. You need to pay attention to:

• the potato variety was suitable for growing in the area;
• use vegetables for planting different terms maturation;
• the soil type was suitable for seed tubers;
• the seeds were the same in size, without damage or rot;
• there were more eyes on the tubers.

When purchasing an elite type of vegetable crop, pay attention to the variety’s resistance to diseases and weather disasters. Tubers for planting should weigh up to 100 grams, have firm flesh, not flaccid or wrinkled. Seeds cannot be used every year; it is better to renew them after 4-5 years.

Simultaneous planting of several varieties

Vegetable growers advise planting both early and late varieties potatoes. But since potato seeds are characterized different periods growing season, then they must be planted at different times.

For early ripening species, it does not matter whether the soil warms up well or not. They sprout well low temperature soil. But varieties with medium and late ripening will not be able to take root in cold soil. Tubers of these species feel comfortable at a temperature of 10 degrees Celsius. Frosts will only prolong the germination of seeds, and not all tubers will sprout; some will die. Hence the appearance of bald spots in the potato field.

Landing

You shouldn’t be surprised why potatoes don’t grow in the garden if planting was done incorrectly, without taking into account the timing.

It is necessary to adhere to the method of planting tubers characteristic of the area. What works on loams will not be effective on sandy soils.

The depth and frequency of planting and the nutritional value of the soil in a potato field play a role in increasing productivity. Without preparatory work: calibration, germination and warming up of tubers - this is indispensable when planting potatoes.

No crop rotation

A mistake many gardeners make is planting potatoes in the same place for a long time. for long years. It is known that the presence of the same crops depletes the soil on the site, and microorganisms harmful to plants settle in it. The disappearance of mobile forms of potassium and phosphorus from the soil leads to smaller potato tubers and low vegetable yields.

With proper crop rotation this will not happen. For potatoes, the best predecessors are cucumbers, cabbage, and legumes.

The requirements for soils prepared for planting potatoes are simple. It is more comfortable for tubers to develop in areas well-filled with fertilizers, light and medium in size. mechanical composition soil.

Preparations begin for planting vegetables in the fall. Adding organic matter will improve the composition of the soil. Apply up to 6 kilograms of humus or compost per square meter. From mineral fertilizers It is better to add complexes containing phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers and partially phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added to the soil before planting, in the spring. But moderation is needed here. Too much fertilizer will result in patches of bare soil that are cracked and whitish.

To enrich a potato field, it is recommended to grow green manure herbs that enrich the soil with useful microelements.

Deep landing

Warmed soil is necessary for better and faster development of potato tubers and root systems. When planted 14-15 centimeters deep into the ground, the seeds are doomed to oxygen starvation. Shoots rarely make their way out, dying from diseases. Even fertilizing the soil will not save the sprouts from death. Half of the vegetable harvest is lost.

Potatoes need to be planted 7-8 centimeters deep, then the tubers will develop correctly.

Inappropriate landing method

The planting method is important to increase the yield of the vegetable. Smooth fit cannot be used everywhere. Depending on climatic conditions and soil structure, other methods must be used.

For low-lying areas, it is better to use the ridge method, in which the soil warms up better, and the tubers will have enough heat and air. For dry and sandy soils It is recommended to use trench planting.

Height

A vegetable crop develops correctly and grows if it is properly cared for. Prepared tubers with sprouts, planted in warm soil, will sprout quickly and amicably. But if placed in cold soil without calibration, they can rot, leaving the summer resident without a harvest.

How long does it take for potatoes to sprout?

The temperature norms of the region during the potato growing season are important for the germination period of the crop. Usually the first shoots appear 10-12 days after instillation. But this is considered optimal for southern regions. In colder regions, seedlings will appear later, after 15 and sometimes 20 days.

The time of emergence of seedlings also depends on the selected vegetable variety. Early ripening species sprout faster than late varieties. Potatoes bred for the southern regions will not germinate in the north, since there will not be enough daylight for them. Therefore, it is necessary to plant local potato varieties so that the germination rate is high.

Climate and planting dates

Poor potato growth is associated with sudden temperature changes between day and night. The delay and lack of development in potato seedlings occurs due to cold air, which has a detrimental effect on the plants. Potato bushes develop poorly, but the tubers in the soil that has been warmed up during the day produce new root crops and “grow whelps.” This condition will lead to stunted stem growth.

Uneven germination occurs due to the fact that the planting time is chosen incorrectly. Some of the tubers died in the cold soil. And if they are planted deeply, then there is a high probability that they will not sprout at all.

Weather influences potato growth. During dry periods of summer, plants die because fertilizers without sufficient moisture will not reach the roots. But heavy rains also destroy vegetable crops, contributing to the rotting of tubers. Moisture accumulates most in low-lying areas, which must be taken into account when choosing a place for vegetable crops.

Why did potatoes stop growing?

A vegetable goes into hibernation and stops growing if:

• insufficient nutrition, lack of feeding;
• there was an attack of pests, for example, a mole cricket;
• the air temperature has dropped;
• tubers rotted.

If the reason for the cessation of plant growth is determined in time, it can be eliminated.

What to do if potatoes don't sprout

When potato seedlings do not appear within a certain period of time, the situation can be corrected if:

• water the beds during severe drought;
• cover the plantings with an awning from special material at night or when the temperature drops;
• loosen the soil, allowing air and moisture to reach the tubers;
• dig up the area and remove rotten nodules from the ground;
• fertilize the potato field.

Sprouts will appear faster if you pay close attention to vegetable planting, disease prevention, and pest protection.

Harvest

It will be successful in obtaining large and healthy tubers in the fall, if you follow the rules of vegetable farming. You can’t just throw seed into the holes and forget about it until the fall. Then there is no need to be surprised by small and rotten tubers when digging.

Small fruits

To get a potato harvest, you need to decide on where to plant it. Choose open sunny places, since the vegetable is a light-loving crop.

Moisture is important for tuber growth. A lot of moisture evaporates over the summer, so in order to form 1 kilogram of potatoes, the plant needs to spend up to 100 liters of water per season. During the period of tuber formation, the humidity in the field should be in the range of 70-85%.

Potato shrinkage occurs when wrong choice seed material. Rejection of nodules before planting should be carried out carefully. Seeds weighing 50-80 grams also produce high yields.

Germination planting material stimulates the development of the root system of the vegetable, better absorption occurs nutrients from the soil, tuber growth.

The tuber harvest can be ruined if:

• plant in low wetlands;
• select low-quality seed material with diseased and damaged tubers;
• do not provide nutrition to the potatoes during growth;
• a lot of nitrogen in the soil.

Rot covers the tubers when potatoes are planted in cold soil during a wet summer.

Few ovaries and fruits

Potato bushes located in the shade will not produce tubers at all. The stems will stretch, the tops will turn yellow, and instead of tubers, only stolons will form, thickened at the ends. You can avoid this if you arrange the rows of potatoes from north to south. Then the plantings will be evenly illuminated throughout the day.

To ensure the germination of vegetable seeds, germination of the eyes is carried out by placing the material in rooms with a temperature of 5 degrees Celsius. To form tubers in the garden, you need a temperature of at least 18 degrees during the day, and 12 degrees at night. In light frosts, even minus 1 degree, the tubers will die.

Few fruits are obtained when the soil lacks elements such as boron, copper, potassium, and calcium. The flowering of bushes is weakened due to a lack of phosphorus in the soil. Excess nitrogen leads to the same state of the plant.

Diseases and pests

Protection of potato plantings from diseases and pests must be given Special attention, otherwise you may be left without a harvest. To get rid of the problems of poor vegetable growth, you need to know the signs of major diseases.

Fungal diseases of potatoes

Among the diseases garden plant fungal infections develop most often. Spores of pathogenic fungi can remain viable in soil and seeds for a long time, and then, under certain conditions, begin active reproduction.

Among the main symptoms of fungal infections of potatoes is the appearance of spots on the tops. Tubers become infected gradually as they grow. Rot forms inside the pulp or is visible on the top of the peel.

The fungus develops best during air temperature changes, high humidity soil. If the symptoms of the disease are quickly detected, then it is easy to cope with pathogenic microorganisms.

Viral diseases of potatoes

Viral infections are dangerous for the growth of vegetable crops. When the virus spreads, all the bushes in the field become sick, and the crop dies. It is difficult to get rid of the infection; you have to destroy the plants completely and then disinfect the soil.

The pathogens act on potato tissue and plant vessels. In addition to stunted growth, the vegetable lacks flowering and tuber formation.

Most often, viruses are spread by sucking insects.

Late blight of potatoes

When brown spots appear on the leaves of a plant or certain parts of the stems, this is a sign of late blight of the plant. Over time, the green tops begin to dry out or rot. Spots with a clear boundary are found on dug up tubers. various sizes. The affected areas appear slightly pressed into the flesh of the tubers.

Having cut the tubers, they discover rusty pulp, which spreads deeper in the form of tongues.

Plowing the area for potatoes in the fall and observing crop rotation are measures to prevent fungal infection.

Dry rot of potatoes

When digging potatoes, you need to separate the tubers, on which slightly pressed spots are visible light brown. When infected, the pulp becomes rotten and dry. When storing such fruits, grayish-white growths are found on the tubers.

Autumn dressing of tubers prepared for planting will make them less accessible to pathogenic microorganisms. It is better to use fungicides like “Maxim” for these purposes.

Black potato leg

Bacteria infect the stems and leaves of vegetables and tubers. When infected, the leaves turn pale, curl, and the stems become brittle and soft. The tubers do not develop, but rot. The potato flesh darkens, becomes slimy, and has an unpleasant odor.

Experienced gardeners know that a lot of time passes before the first potato shoots appear. If the seedlings do not appear within the allotted time, there is something to worry about. When should we expect seedlings to appear and will they appear at all? What to do in this case? Let's try to deal with all the questions in order.

The reasons on which the time of emergence of potato seedlings or their absence depends

There are a whole range of them:

1. Weather. Natural phenomena– such as heat, frost, drought have a detrimental effect on the development of tubers. Planted tubers in unheated soil will simply freeze and, at best, slow down their growth. During heavy rains, the planting material will rot. And during hot weather, potato tubers can die from lack of moisture.
2. Poor quality planting material. The main reason for the lack of seedlings is poor quality planting material. Perhaps there are no eyes on the tubers, and there is no way for the stems to develop. In addition, the storage of planting material may have been compromised. For example, frozen or infected tubers.
3. Pests and diseases. Insects living in the soil can feast on newly planted potatoes. To avoid this, it is necessary to take timely care of plant protection using special means from insect pests. Prevents the development of seedlings and various diseases– dry rot, potato cancer, etc.

If the potatoes still haven’t sprouted, what should I do?

If after a certain period the seedlings have not appeared, do not panic. It is necessary to analyze the situation and, if possible, correct errors.

1. Low temperature. The favorable temperature for seed germination is +21°C. Even a slight deviation from the norm can affect seed development. Their growth stops, waiting for more comfortable conditions.
2. Excessive humidity. If there is excess moisture in the soil, potato seeds do not receive enough oxygen, so they may simply die. If possible, stop the flow of moisture and allow the soil to dry.
3. Large planting depth. A deeply planted seed is in a cooler environment. Sun rays cannot warm the seeds, so the temperature for their development is insufficient. Consequently, a deep sowing layer is a serious obstacle to the development of sprouts. During planting, you need to accurately calculate the sowing depth to avoid further inhibition in plant development.
4. Soil aridity. In this case, you can dig up the potatoes a little and check the condition of the tubers. If there is not enough moisture, ensure regular watering of the plant.

To grow up rich and healthy harvest, you must adhere to the basic rules for planting, storage and care. On high degree yield also affects proper storage planting material. On the day of planting potatoes, it is important to consider weather and sufficient soil heating temperature. Having taken all measures, the chances of a good potato yield will certainly be high.

Planting potatoes takes a lot of time and effort. Finally, the tubers are already in the ground, neat ridges adorn the beds, and all that remains is to wait for the shoots, preparing to repel the onslaught of weeds, Colorado potato beetles and other pests. But what to do if, three to four weeks after planting, the potatoes have not sprouted? First you need to figure out why this happened.

How long does it take for potatoes to sprout?

Knowing how many days it takes for potatoes to sprout, you can calculate the time when the first shoots appear. In the temperate climate of the central regions, sprouts appear approximately 21 days after planting. In the south, this period can decrease to 14-15 days, in the north it can increase to 25-28.

If the tubers are planted already properly germinated, with shoots 3-4 cm long, then warm weather germination should be expected for at least a week ahead of schedule– in about 14 days.

Early potatoes, as a rule, vernalized for 5 weeks, laying out the tubers on wet sawdust. By the time of planting, such potatoes will already have not only shoots, but also root system. Tubers germinated using this method sprout a week after planting.

Despite the fact that potatoes perfectly adapt to different climatic conditions and soil types, there are several reasons why tubers planted in the ground may not germinate at all or may produce frail, non-viable seedlings.

Potatoes may not sprout for the following reasons:

• weather, soil conditions, violations of planting rules;
• poor quality of seed material;
• pests and diseases.

The influence of climate and planting time on tuber germination

Potatoes do not sprout for a long time if:

• tubers are planted too deep;
• potatoes were planted too early, in cold soil that did not have time to warm up;
• the soil is too damp or, conversely, dry.

If the soil on the site is loamy, the optimal depth for planting potatoes is 7-8 cm. In sandy loam or peat soil the holes may be a little deeper - about 10-12 cm. It should be borne in mind that the larger the layer of earth that separates the tuber from the surface, the harder it is for the sprouts to break out. Potatoes planted in holes 20-25 cm deep will sprout no earlier than in a month, and only if the soil is properly warmed up.

Planting timing is of great importance. The soil temperature must be at least +8°C. In colder soil, potatoes lose their viability. If there is frost after planting, the tubers and barely hatched sprouts may freeze. Therefore, in cold weather, when there is a threat of frost, experienced gardeners Cover the potato beds with agricultural canvas.

One of the most reliable agricultural signs: potatoes should be planted when the young leaves of birch trees grow to the size of a small coin.

If there are prolonged rains, due to which the soil is too damp, oxygen access to the tubers becomes difficult, they begin to suffocate and rot. But even in soil that is too dry, the development of potato shoots stops. During drought, plantings should be watered at least once a week, maintaining moderate humidity.

Seed quality control

The most serious disadvantages of seed material:

• tubers do not have eyes;
• potatoes are too small;
• the sprouts are very thin, thread-like;
• the tubers have deteriorated over the winter or begun to rot;
• Before planting, potatoes are treated with too much fungicide.

Shoots are formed from eyes, so if a potato does not have them, it will not sprout.

The larger the tuber, the more nutrients the shoots will receive. Too small potatoes, if they sprout, are very weak. Therefore, tubers smaller than 40 grams should not be left for seeds.

It is better not to store seed material in plastic bags so that the potatoes do not suffocate. As a last resort, holes are cut in the bags for ventilation. Tubers for seeds are carefully selected in the fall and stored separately from the rest of the potatoes. It is advisable to hold the seeds in the light for some time before storing them so that their skins turn green.

In the spring, 20-30 days before planting, the seeds are sorted out again and sprayed with a weak solution copper sulfate(2 grams per 10 liters of water) and laid out for vernalization in a cool, dry room (at a temperature of 10-15°C). Seed shoots should be thick and strong.

Tubers with frail thread-like shoots are discarded: such shoots will not have the strength to break through the thickness of the soil. In no case should sick, rotten potatoes vernalize: they will not only not produce healthy shoots, but will also infect neighboring tubers.

Sometimes gardeners themselves are to blame for the fact that high-quality potatoes do not sprout: in an effort to protect the tubers from diseases, they are treated with a large number of pesticides. This should not be done under any circumstances. When using fungicides and other drugs, you should strictly follow the instructions and in no case exceed the dosage.

Potato diseases and pests

Even one tuber with rhizoctorosis or black leg, is capable of infecting several neighboring beds. The danger increases in cool, damp weather. In this case, spores of pathogenic microorganisms are carried along with rainwater and dew drops.

If potatoes are planted in the same place for several years in a row, pathogenic bacteria and fungi overwinter in the soil, and in the spring they literally attack the seeds. As a result, the tubers rot in the ground without sprouting.

Fungicides are used to combat potato diseases. Also, the spread of infections can be prevented if winter rye, oats, and legumes are planted as green manure before potatoes.

Insects that can damage tubers and nibble young shoots also overwinter in the soil:

• mole crickets;
• larvae chafer;
• wireworm larvae.

There are several simple folk ways get rid of these pests. In the fall, it is necessary to dig up the ground to a depth of 20-25 cm. Most of the insects that have gone to winter will end up on the surface and freeze.

May beetle and wireworm larvae are repelled by the smell of onion peels. A small amount of it can be thrown into each hole when planting potatoes. A handful of crushed eggshells It will not only protect the tuber from mole crickets, but will also serve as a fertilizer. The larvae are also repelled by nitrogenous compounds contained in nodules on the roots of peas, beans, clover and other legumes.

A week before planting, you can set traps for mole crickets. To do this, liter jars are buried in the ground in several places, and beer or water with honey is poured into the bottom. Insects crawl to the smell of food, fall into traps and cannot get out.

What to do if potatoes don't sprout

If the potatoes have not sprouted by the pre-calculated date, it is necessary to check the condition of the tubers. Perhaps they were simply planted too deep, and the shoots will hatch 7-10 days later than at the normal planting depth. If the weather is too dry, watering can speed up the growth of potatoes.

It is much worse if the tubers, along with the sprouts, rotted in the ground or were damaged by pests. In this case, all rotten potatoes must be dug up and burned, and the ground must be treated with fungicides.

It is better to sow the infected area with legumes, rye or oats, but for potato beds you will have to choose a different place. If you plant early-ripening varieties of potatoes that ripen within 70 days in new beds, then, despite the first failure, it will still be possible to harvest in the fall.