DIY toilet made of silicate blocks. Bathroom in the garden made of cinder block. Construction of a cesspool and foundation

August 6, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of summer houses, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

The toilet is one of the most necessary objects in the country. Therefore, experienced people always advise starting with the arrangement of a bare area from there. But how to make a toilet yourself, without having any experience in such work?

Next I will try to help in this matter. Of course, we will not consider how to install the installation in the house or perform any other complex operation. Below I will just describe a few of the simplest ways to build an outdoor closet, aimed at novice craftsmen. We will also touch on some aspects of arranging a restroom in a house or inside another building.

Options for constructing an external closet

You can build a toilet at your dacha from almost any materials that you have at hand. For example, if you are going to build a country house and have purchased building materials with a good supply, then the toilet can be built from the same materials, for example, from foam blocks. bricks, etc. In this case, the result will be a permanent building with solid walls, although construction will have to take a relatively long time.

If you want to build a toilet with minimal time and effort, it is better to make it framed from timber or metal profiles, and then cover it with any material that is at hand:

• boards;
• clapboard;
• polycarbonate;
• corrugated sheeting, etc.;

If there is already a building on the site with enough free space for a toilet, then you don’t have to build a stall. Below I will tell you how to make a toilet in a garage, in a house or any other building that is on the site.

Regardless of how you build the toilet, this procedure will include several main steps:

Below we will take a closer look at all these stages.

Toilet design

So, first of all, we need to draw up a project for the future construction. This stage involves solving several important tasks at once:

In fact, there is nothing complicated about this, however, each stage has its own nuances.

Cabin design

The simplest is the frame structure of the toilet. The frame, as a rule, consists of four racks, as well as lower and upper trim. To increase strength, braces and cross members are additionally used.

Of course, if desired, you can use a more complex frame, for example, to make a closet in the form of a tower. Also, sometimes a toilet and an outdoor shower are combined under one roof, which is also very convenient. Moreover, the layout may also include a locker room so that things do not get wet while taking a shower.

On our portal you can find other ideas for the toilet. The main thing is that their level of complexity is commensurate with your skills. If this is your first time doing this kind of work, then it is better to make a simple rectangular booth.

The design of a brick or block closet is simpler, since all the walls are built by laying bricks or blocks. Therefore, the drawing should indicate only their location and the number of rows on each wall for the convenience of further work.

However, Before drawing up a drawing of a building, you need to decide on its dimensions. The latter, of course, can be taken arbitrarily at will, however, there are some generally accepted standards:

• height – 2 meters. This is usually quite enough, however, if there are tall people in the family, this parameter can be increased;
• the width according to the standards should be at least one and a half meters;
• length - 2 meters, this is also enough to place a toilet seat and provide a spacious area in front of it.

When drawing up a drawing, it is necessary to indicate not only the general dimensions of the toilet, but also the dimensions of all parts in millimeters, in order to avoid mistakes during the construction process. After this, you can calculate the amount of materials.

Toilet type

After the cabin design is ready, you need to decide how the waste will be accumulated or processed. Depending on this, external closets can be divided into several types:

• with a cesspool - in this case there is a pit under the toilet, which is usually cleaned every few years;

• powder closet - in this case, there is a small container under the toilet seat, which is taken out and emptied from time to time;
• a composting toilet is essentially the same powder closet, but in this case the waste is sprinkled with peat, as a result of which it immediately begins to be processed. After filling the container, the waste is poured into a compost pit, where over time an excellent fertilizer for plants is formed.

It must be said that a dry closet can be placed even in a house or any other room. In this case, no additional plumbing is needed for the toilet. The only thing you have to do is, for example, from plasterboard.

Ready-made dry closets are available for sale in the form of plastic toilets with a cistern. Instead of water, the tank contains peat. The price of these products starts from 4500-5000 rubles.

The most common is a toilet with a cesspool, since after its construction you can forget about any maintenance for several years. The pit must have sealed walls and a filter bottom to remove liquid waste components. A layer of sand and crushed stone is used as a filter.

Groundwater must be located at a depth of at least six meters from the soil level. Otherwise, the bottom of the cesspool must be sealed.

As for the volume of the pit, then two cubic meters is enough for a family of three to clean it every few years. If you have a large family and you will spend a lot of time at the dacha, you can increase its volume to 2.5 cubic meters.

Of course, it is much easier and faster to make a powder closet, however, it is less convenient in terms of use, since you will have to empty the container often. But, if you have made such a decision, place a bucket of peat near the toilet seat so that after each visit to the restroom you can sprinkle the contents of the bucket with peat. Thus, you will have a dry closet.

Selecting a location

The final stage of designing a toilet with your own hands is determining its location. You can place a dry closet or powder closet in any place convenient for you.

If there are differences in levels on the site, then the toilet should be located as close as possible to the highest point in order to exclude the possibility of it being flooded by melt or storm water.

But when choosing a place for a toilet with a cesspool, you must follow certain rules. The fact is that, according to sanitary standards, a certain distance must be maintained from the toilet to important objects on the site:

The toilet should be located on the site so that unpleasant odors do not interfere with your rest or the rest of your neighbors.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that sooner or later the hole will have to be cleaned out. Therefore it is advisable position the toilet closer to the outer fence so that a sewage truck can drive up to it.

After preparing the project, you can begin the practical part - construction.

Construction of a block or brick toilet

Preparing the cesspool and foundation

First of all, let's look at how to build a permanent toilet from blocks and bricks. The work should begin with the construction of a cesspool, which in our case will serve as the foundation. Instructions for doing this work look something like this:

1. First of all, you need to mark the site. It is advisable to position the pit so that it is at least 30-40 centimeters longer than the cabin. In this case, you can make a hatch behind the toilet to pump out waste.
   During the marking process, it should be taken into account that the minimum width between the walls should be one and a half meters. Those. the width of the pit must be determined taking into account the thickness of the walls;
2. Next you need to dig a hole to a depth of about one and a half meters;
3. then the bottom is covered with sand and crushed stone, after which it is carefully compacted. If there is groundwater nearby, the bottom should be reinforced and covered with concrete;

1. Next, the walls of the pit are made. They can be built from brick or filled with concrete.
   This operation is performed on the same principle as a strip foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information on how this is done;
2. when the walls are ready, you need to pour a concrete floor with a thickness of at least 5 cm. To pour the slab, you need to perform formwork and reinforcement, just like for the walls. At the same time, do not forget to make a hatch above the toilet seat, and also leave open the area that will be located behind the toilet.

After each filling stage, i.e. pouring the bottom, floor, walls and ceilings, you need to stop working so that the concrete gains the necessary strength.

This completes the process of constructing a cesspool. Now you need to wait until it gains brand strength.

Construction of walls and roof

The laying of the toilet walls has no special features and is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Several layers of roofing material should be laid along the perimeter of the concrete slab to waterproof the walls;
2. then laying bricks or blocks is carried out. There is nothing particularly complicated about this procedure. The only thing is that you need to carefully lay each row so that all the bricks are located in the same horizontal and vertical plane.
   To do this, you need to use a level and also pull ropes that will serve as beacons. In addition, try to ensure that all joints have the same thickness (about 5 mm) and are completely filled with mortar;

1. It is necessary to make lintels over the door and window openings. For these purposes, you can use two metal corners, located so that a brick or block can stand on them;
2. When the walls are “raised” to the required height, you need to complete the roof. To do this, lay boards that can be secured to the walls using dowels. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the boards and sheathing is done with slats.

Any roofing material – slate, corrugated sheeting, metal tiles, etc. – is attached on top of the sheathing.

The back wall of the toilet should be 15-20 centimeters lower than the front wall to ensure a slope of the roof.

At this point, the construction of the major toilet is almost complete. Now you need to make a toilet seat from the boards, which is a box with a hatch, and also install a door and make a cover for the pit from the boards. Below I will tell you in more detail how the door and toilet seat are made.

Construction of a cesspool and foundation

If the toilet will be your first construction experience, then it is better to make it frame, as it is much simpler. In this case, the cesspool can be made from car tires.

To do this you need to do the following:

1. First of all, you need to mark the area and dig a hole in the back of the toilet. Its dimensions should be such that the tires can be laid flat;
2. then the bottom of the pit is made according to the scheme described above, after which tires are stacked on top of each other until they reach ground level;
3. Now we need to make a columnar foundation. To do this, you need to dig holes the size of the concrete blocks at each corner of the structure to a depth of about 40 cm. After this, the bottom of the holes needs to be filled with sand and crushed stone about 30 cm thick, compacted thoroughly and then the concrete blocks must be laid.
   The blocks must be located in the same horizontal plane, so when installing them, use beacons and a level;
4. To complete the work, you need to lay several layers of roofing felt on the blocks.

Now that the pit and foundation are ready, you can begin arranging the frame.

Frame construction

The easiest way is to build a frame from timber with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, since this does not require a welding machine or any special tools. It is made as follows:

1. A grillage in the form of a rectangle of timber is laid on the foundation. You can fasten the beams together with self-tapping screws and metal corners;

1. then, using the same principle, vertical posts are installed, which can be strengthened with braces;

1. A crossbar is mounted at the base, which will separate the toilet seat area from the floor. The racks of the toilet seat will be located on this crossbar in the future;
2. the top trim is made on top, which is also fastened with corners and self-tapping screws;
3. now you need to secure the racks and crossbars at the locations of the door and window openings;
4. To complete the work, you need to make the frame of the toilet seat, which also consists of racks from horizontal crossbars.

Sheathing

Now that the frame is ready, it needs to be sheathed. As mentioned above, it can be made from any “available” materials. For example, polycarbonate cladding looks original.

If the exterior of the site is made in a rustic or Russian style, make it from clapboard or at least from boards. The sheathing is also attached to the frame using our favorite self-tapping screws. The toilet seat is lined using the same principle.

The roof is made according to the scheme described above. As for the door, it can be made from boards of suitable length, which are fastened together with Z-shaped slats. Boards are simply laid on the floor of the toilet.

That’s basically all I wanted to tell you about building an outdoor toilet. I note that the presence of a restroom on the property does not mean that you need to give up the amenities in the house. On the contrary, if the restroom was not originally planned, you can allocate space for it at the expense of the living room.

In this case, a dry toilet is not the only way to arrange a toilet in the house. If you want to create the most comfortable conditions, you can install an autonomous sewer system and install a septic tank.

In this case, even installation of the installation in the toilet can be realized. However, this is a separate topic for conversation, which we will talk about next time.

Conclusion

Building a toilet is a task that every home craftsman can handle. Moreover, you can build a frame structure yourself in just a few days. I hope the information above was useful to you.

See the video in this article for more information. If you encounter any difficulties during the construction process or have other questions, ask them in the comments and I will be happy to answer you.

A toilet for a dacha is a necessary and primary thing. It must be located at least 30 m from the water intake.

The cesspool must be sealed and have a volume of at least 200 liters. Foundation for country toilet It is better to make it columnar; the frame is made of brick, foam blocks or wood.

At my dacha I decided to put foam block toilet, and used a metal barrel of fuel and lubricants with a volume of 200 liters as a cesspool. A clay castle was made around the barrel, and next to it there was an additional room with a separate entrance for storing household equipment and firewood.

Installation of a foundation for a country toilet

Since foam blocks are a fairly light material, the construction of the foundation will be simplified. I lay it out with used bricks in two rows. To do this, I protect the base from the excavated soil and pour out a mixture of coarse sand and cement.

I compact the base and begin laying bricks on concrete mortar. I lay a double layer of roofing felt on top of the foundation as insulation.

The crucial point is to install the barrel under the cesspool. When the foundation is dry enough. I start digging a hole for the barrel. Its diameter is 60 cm and its height is 90 cm. The hole needs to be at least 1.2 meters deep, counting from the first row of bricks. The width of the pit will correspond to the diameter of the barrel.

When the hole is dug, I fill its bottom with 30 cm of dry clay and compact it well. Then, where necessary, I add more. Next I install the barrel. It should be positioned in such a way that its top is on the same level as the first row of foundation bricks. The neck of the barrel should be set horizontally, so I use a level. In the future, using this level, I will make a toilet floor screed using waterproofing from a dense construction film.

After installing the barrel under cesspool, I’m starting to make a clay castle. That is, fill the side walls between the barrel and the ground with clay, compacting it thoroughly. At the same time, I try not to move the barrel from its place. I finish the clay castle at the level of the top row of the foundation. Having completed this operation, I proceed to screed the floor with waterproofing. I allow two days for the screed to dry before starting laying the walls from foam blocks.

Laying the walls of a toilet for a summer residence

I will carry out, according to the project, the laying of four external walls for country toilet, and one internal partition. As I already noted, the room will be divided into two sections with separate entrances for the toilet and utility building. The height of the walls is two meters high according to the height of standard doorways.

roof garden toilet I am doing a gable roof, and even with a small attic above the entrance for household needs. On top of the foam block masonry, I lay out two rows of bricks to secure the mauerlat under the rafter system. I make the rafters from 10x4 cm boards, and I make the sheathing from edged boards. As a roofing material I use corrugated sheeting, which is convenient and economical to cut in a whole piece from the ridge to the overhang with the least amount of overlap. I secure the corrugated sheeting to the sheathing using hexagon self-tapping screws with drill tips and sealing washers.

The structure of the seat is made from a welded metal cylinder with a diameter of 65 cm. I line it on the sides with powder-coated sheet metal, and cover the top with waterproof plywood, into which a plastic remote bucket with a cut-off bottom is cut to size.

Thus, garden toilet ready with minimal costs and additional utility room.

Construction of a block or brick toilet

Preparing the cesspool and foundation

First of all, let's look at how to build a permanent toilet from blocks and bricks. The work should begin with the construction of a cesspool, which in our case will serve as the foundation. Instructions for doing this work look something like this:

First of all, you need to mark the site. It is advisable to position the pit so that it is at least 30-40 centimeters longer than the cabin. In this case, you can make a hatch behind the toilet to pump out waste. During the marking process, it should be taken into account that the minimum width between the walls should be one and a half meters. Those. the width of the pit must be determined taking into account the thickness of the walls;

1. Next you need to dig a hole to a depth of about one and a half meters;
2. then the bottom is covered with sand and crushed stone, after which it is carefully compacted. If there is groundwater nearby, the bottom should be reinforced and covered with concrete;

Cesspool with brick walls

Next, the walls of the pit are made. They can be built from brick or filled with concrete. This operation is performed on the same principle as a strip foundation. On our portal you can find detailed information on how this is done;
when the walls are ready, you need to pour a concrete floor with a thickness of at least 5 cm. To pour the slab, you need to perform formwork and reinforcement, just like for the walls. At the same time, do not forget to make a hatch above the toilet seat, and also leave open the area that will be located behind the toilet.

Note!

After each filling stage, i.e. pouring the bottom, floor, walls and ceilings, you need to stop working so that the concrete gains the necessary strength.

This completes the process of constructing a cesspool. Now you need to wait until the concrete gains brand strength.

Construction of walls and roof

The laying of the toilet walls has no special features and is carried out in the following sequence:

Several layers of roofing material should be laid along the perimeter of the concrete slab to waterproof the walls;
then laying bricks or blocks is carried out. There is nothing particularly complicated about this procedure. The only thing is that you need to carefully lay each row so that all the bricks are located in the same horizontal and vertical plane. To do this, you need to use a level and also pull ropes that will serve as beacons. In addition, try to ensure that all joints have the same thickness (about 5 mm) and are completely filled with mortar;

1. It is necessary to make lintels over the door and window openings. For these purposes, you can use two metal corners, located so that a brick or block can stand on them;
2. When the walls are “raised” to the required height, you need to complete the roof. To do this, lay boards that can be secured to the walls using dowels. A waterproofing film is laid on top of the boards and sheathing is done with slats.
3. Any roofing material - slate, corrugated sheeting, metal tiles, etc. - is attached on top of the sheathing.

Note!

The back wall of the toilet should be 15-20 centimeters lower than the front wall to ensure a slope of the roof.

At this point, the construction of the major toilet is almost complete. Now you need to make a toilet seat from the boards, which is a box with a hatch, and also install a door and make a cover for the pit from the boards. Below I will tell you in more detail how the door and toilet seat are made.

We build a toilet from blocks in three stages

Nowadays, summer cottages are becoming more popular every year, because many people want to protect their family or protect them from noisy cities for a while and take them to an ecologically clean area. When you buy a property, very often it is not equipped with amenities such as a bath and toilet in the house itself or even outside, so in some cases, you will need to build an outdoor toilet yourself. To begin with, you will have to decide how the construction will take place and what kind of material will be chosen. Usually wood is chosen, because then construction will be the easiest and fastest. If you don't know how to build a toilet out of blocks, then the first step is preparatory work.

That is, to begin with, you will need to purchase the necessary material. If built with concrete blocks, you will need to purchase and transport the blocks. In the case of a wooden toilet, you will need to bring wooden beams. When the actual construction begins, you will need to consider which way the wind will blow. This is necessary in order to completely avoid the unpleasant odor, which is simply inevitable after a while. Next, you need to pay attention to the groundwater levels, because when you dig a drainage hole, it should be located slightly above the intended level. Choose no more than 1.5 meters so that in winter you do not feel unpleasant fumes. Move your toilet away from sources of drinking water and select a low-lying area in this area so that you cannot pollute the water (soil) with new construction. Pay attention to the general regulations, which will indicate the minimum distances to the nearest plot.

So, in your work you will have to use: cement, lumber, concrete ring, nail, slate. Divide your construction into three stages, because first you will need to dig a cesspool, then you will need to finish and insulate the hole, and in the final stage, build the house itself. When you are finishing the pit, the easiest way is to use ready-made reinforced concrete rings, which you can buy at any hardware store. You are given a choice, because the rings can be easily replaced with brick cladding. You will have to concrete the bottom at certain slopes in the direction where there will be a slope towards the future hole (pit).

The corners will need to be recessed by at least 60 cm; for this, an asbestos-cement pipe is usually used. A pole will be placed on such a pipe, which will need to be impregnated with bitumen mastics in advance. And only after that this structure will need to be cemented. The lower trim should be built no less than 50 cm from the common base. Pay attention to the thickness of the boards, because they should not exceed 4 centimeters. After this, proceed to the second stage - flooring. Next, you will need to cut holes in the far parts, the dimensions of which should not exceed 0.2 * 0.2 meters. Sheathe the frame; to do this, carefully use the boards, because they should fit tightly next to each other. After which you will need to make a door that should be installed on a hinge - 2-3 and attach latches inside the resulting house.

Next you need to deal with the seat, which is usually knocked down by plywood. A so-called cube is made, which has no bottom, and the dimensions are very often standard, that is, 40 * 40 * 40 centimeters, then you need to firmly secure such a toilet seat over a hole on the ground, cut out a hole in the shape of a circle and attach the toilet ring to the resulting toilet seat . In any case, if questions arise in the area of ​​how to build a toilet from blocks, intuition will be able to help you, because in fact, during the work it is not difficult to carry out this work.

After the work is completed, we move on to the roof. Usually, ordinary slate is chosen, its dimensions are 175 * 125 centimeters. The slate must be nailed on top with special slate nails. This entire block structure must be carefully treated with fungicidal impregnation and some compounds that will not allow your structure to rot. After finishing and processing, we enjoy our design - the building is ready.

Various country toilets

Note: toilets made of corrugated sheets on a metal frame are, frankly speaking, uncomfortable - parko in the summer, cold in the off-season. Good metal cabins are made mainly of industrial production with insulation and internal lining. Then the production cycle turns out to be cheaper than carpentry. If you are still interested in this aspect, then the homemade upper structure will be identical to the shower stall, and the floor with a toilet seat will be identical to that described below.

Let’s finally look at how to create beauty. First you need to deal with the construction, and the design is already tied to it. To build a toilet that is cozy, clean, hygienic and pleasing to the eye, you must first solve other problems:

Select the type of drainage, disposal and disposal system based on local conditions.
Determine the location of the toilet on the site.
Select the type and design solution of the ground structure; simply - cabins or booths.
Understand its decorative design: what is appropriate in this case will be possible.
Estimate construction costs.

It must be said that these problems are closely interconnected and we need to deal with them all together. There is only a booth somewhat to the side; it almost does not interact with the underground part and the base. So the toilet cubicle can be made basically whatever you want, and this is the easiest and cheapest part of the work. So let's start with it.

Booth

The main material for construction, as mentioned above, is wood. It is known that it is inexpensive, easy to process, retains heat well, breathes, and after simple processing (see below) remains harmless to humans, but becomes resistant to bad weather and becomes unsuitable for the settlement of various types of infection. However, there are still circumstances due to which a wooden toilet turns out to be the best solution for a summer house.

About foundations and supports

The soil is considered suitable for construction if its bearing capacity without additional measures to strengthen it and the foundation is at least 1.7 kg sq. m. cm. Convert to square meters; we get 17 tons (!). The plan area of ​​a toilet cabin rarely exceeds 2.5-3 square meters. m; utility block - 15-20 sq. m. Is it conceivable that they weigh 40-50 and 250-350 tons, respectively?

Go ahead. Excessively heaving soil is considered to be soil that swells by 12% when it freezes. We take the thickness of the humus layer, which swells the most, at 50 cm; This is not a dacha, but an Eldorado. 50x0.12 = 6 cm. On homogeneous loose soils, a uniformly swelling surface is considered to be one whose horizontal size is equal to 100 absolute values ​​of swelling; in this case - 600 cm or 6 m.

Are there toilets or cabins larger than 6x6 m in plan? We conclude: a toilet on a summer cottage can be built without a foundation. During seasonal movements of the soil, it will simply rise and fall by less than 10 cm (and most likely by 3-4), without warping at all, which is completely imperceptible.

Moreover, there is no need to build a foundation for a toilet: taking into account the allocation of land for a construction site with soil excavation, at least one hundred square meters is withdrawn from the household supply. And if the plot is already planted, what should I do? And from a construction point of view: an unloaded foundation buried in the ground can warp and tilt more than the soil surface. The reason is the uneven and heterogeneous freezing of its layers. The foundation tape, piles or pillars feel it, unlike the surface, immediately “with their whole body.”

Note: this is why builders strive to finish the foundations early in order to build as many walls as possible before the cold weather. The exception is deep foundations, which can winter without restrictions.

The conclusion “without a foundation” is known to summer residents even without calculations with special knowledge. Toilet cabins are placed on bricks or ready-made small reinforced concrete monoliths. However, it would be best to place the outdoor toilet on a couple of concrete trellis posts. They are sold not only in the southern regions for vineyards; in colder places they are used for hops and other climbing crops.

Trellis posts are produced in lengths of 1.2-6 m, with overall dimensions in plan from 10x12 to 20x30 cm. The cross-section is trapezoidal, with rounded corners on the smaller side. And on the larger one there are rigging eyes made of wire rod 6-12 mm. By sawing them in the middle with a grinder and carefully bending them, we get pins for attaching the cabin to the base.

Note: if the toilet has a cesspool, then the problem of the rear support beam of the cabin (wood in a chemically aggressive environment) not only resolves itself - it simply does not arise.

In places with strong winds, it is still advisable to make support posts for the booth from 80x80 timber or 40x40x2 corrugated pipes. Metal ones are concreted about 30 cm deeper than the humus layer, and wooden ones are dug to the same depth, having first been treated with very hot bitumen and wrapped in roofing material with sprinkling (rough).

Constructions

Materials and cladding

There are mainly 4 types of lumber for the cabin:

1. Beam 60x60 or 80x80 - for the frame.
2. Tongue and groove board 40x (120-150) - for the floor and toilet seat.
3. Edged or tongue and groove board 20-30 mm for external cladding.
4. Edged or unedged board-twenty or 50x20 slats for roof sheathing.

The sheathing board can be replaced with waterproof plywood or OSB with a thickness of 8-20 mm. In the latter case, the slats for the sheathing can be cut from them. It will also be only better from all sides and only a little more expensive if you use tongue and groove forty on the cladding.

Sheathing with tongue and groove boards will show all its advantages if the cabin is sheathed with horizontal belts. But then it is absolutely necessary to orient the ridges of the tongues upward and the grooves downwards in order to avoid the accumulation of moisture in the tongue. In any case, the door is sheathed vertically.

Boat planking

Curvilinear sections, which may be required according to the design conditions, are best sheathed in a nautical style with a boat plank, see fig. Also, such cladding will last longer in places with heavy rainfall, but it holds up to strong winds a little worse than sheet piling. Having a jigsaw with a rotating shoe, it is easy to make a boat board from an edged one; The angle of inclination of the board visor is about 30 degrees. The peaks of the boards should be oriented down the slope, as in Fig.

Massive, i.e. made of solid wood, lumber, after cutting to size, must be treated: all without exception, with anti-rot preparations (biocides), and then impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion; this inexpensive material protects the wood from dampness for many years. It is necessary to impregnate in exactly this sequence, otherwise the PVA film will not release the biocide into the wood! And if it’s done right, it will prevent it from evaporating and being washed out. Parts facing the ground or cesspool (for flooring and lining the toilet seat - under the boards) must be additionally treated with hot bitumen or bitumen mastic.

Types of cabins

In terms of type and construction technology, a wooden outdoor toilet is generally made in 4 architectural forms; see picture: hut, birdhouse, house, hut.

Types of wooden toilet cabins

The difference between them is insignificant, but still there:

The hut is simple in design, durable, resistant to wind and precipitation, the least material-intensive, but it takes up more land and is inconvenient: a step to the right, a step to the left - banging your head. And to “not knock” you need to take the height of the ridge up to 3 m or more, so the savings in materials disappear. The most appropriate design is primitivist-rustic.

A birdhouse is even simpler than a hut; it requires no more wood and takes up minimal land. But the structure is weak, and the entire structure does not retain heat well and is more easily blown by the wind; this is a common drawback of all buildings with a pitched roof. It's no good for design. However, as a summer toilet or a utility section in the backyard behind dense vegetation, a birdhouse toilet is optimal; especially due to the fact that a solar heated water pressure tank can be easily placed on its roof.

At the same time, the cabin under load acquires additional strength.
The house is warmer and a little stronger than a birdhouse. It requires the same amount of materials and land. It is more difficult to attach a water tank, but almost any decoration and decoration is acceptable.
The hut is more complex than others; more material is wasted. Thanks to its faceted shape, it is very durable and can withstand any climatic conditions. Ergonomics and functionality - it couldn’t be better: the shelf and washbasin do not take up floor space, you can also add a hanger. For design - do everything that is suitable for the toilet, and in itself fits into any landscape.

About sizes

The recommended dimensions of the birdhouse and floor house cabins, together with the toilet seat, are from 1.2 m in width and from 1.5 m in depth. For a hut with a hut, the depth is the same, but the width is taken from 0.9 m - in a hut at shoulder level (this is approximately 1.6 m from the floor for a person of average height in shoes), and in a hut along the floor. In block Khrushchev buildings there are toilets 0.7 x 1.1 m, but people do not go there in warm outerwear and garden shoe covers.

Note: the width of the toilet in a summer weekend cottage can be reduced to 1 m.

In any case, there should be at least 40 cm from the head of a standing person to the nearest wall; this is important when calculating the angle of inclination of the walls of the hut. The height of the ceiling above the floor is not lower than 2.1 m, above the toilet seat - from 1.9 m. The height of the side of the seat above the floor, also based on heavy shoes, is taken more than the standard for an apartment toilet 40 cm by 5-6, up to 10 cm, t .e. 45-50 cm, depending on the height of the users.

About door hinges

The hut, birdhouse and house cabins have a common drawback: if you forget to lock the door, the wind can loosen it along with the cabin in literally 10-20 minutes. To avoid this, it is advisable to hang the door on barn hinges, as in pos. 1-3 fig. higher. A durable hut is not afraid of this; its door can be hung on secret hinges without fear.

We are building a booth

The construction of a simple birdhouse cabin is illustrated step by step in the figure; all installation is carried out on nails 100 mm (for 60 mm timber) or 150 mm, for timber 80x80. The sheathing is carried out on 60-70 mm nails.

Often the first thing a person thinks about after purchasing a plot is: how to make a simple outdoor toilet in a dacha with your own hands and ready-made drawings will come in handy here, as well as a detailed description of all stages of construction, tips and nuances.

One of the most important and vital buildings on a summer cottage or garden plot is the toilet. The need for a simple structure arises within a few hours of arrival. And even if the owners already have a bathroom in a cozy house, outdoor amenities will never be superfluous.

It’s easy to build a toilet in a summer cottage with your own hands

The simplicity of the design allows even a person without much construction experience to equip a toilet for their dacha with their own hands. And if you use your imagination, then a house for thinking about

will fit perfectly into the design of the site and, perhaps, even become its decoration.

What kind of toilet to build: types and features

Actually, there are only two options here: with or without a cesspool.

• A toilet with a cesspool is a simple structure, proven by experience and time, which consists of an equipped cesspool and a toilet house above it. As the pit is filled with sewage, it is cleaned out manually or a sewer truck is ordered.
  And sometimes they simply move the house to another place. The old pit is buried, and after 6-7 years its contents will finally rot and you can put the toilet back again.

• A backlash closet is a type of outdoor toilet with a pit for sewage, but with the difference that it must be sealed. Such a toilet has to be built if it is located close to a house, a water source, or when the groundwater is high.

Diagram: how the backlash closet works

• A toilet without a cesspool or a powder closet is installed if the groundwater is very high or if the toilet is rarely used. In this case, the container for collecting sewage can be anything except a hole (bucket, barrel, plastic tank). The required volume determines the intensity of use of the bathroom.

After each trip to such a toilet, sewage is sprinkled with dry peat, sometimes sawdust or ash is used, so the house should have a box for “masking powder”. After filling, the container is removed manually and the contents are evacuated to the compost pit. If the sewage has been sprinkled with peat, then after a while it becomes a wonderful fertilizer.

Toilet without a cesspool (powder closet)

Important! If groundwater lies below 2.5 meters, any type of toilet can be built, but if it is located higher, then a cesspool will have to be abandoned.

Where to build a toilet

For toilets with a cesspool, there are a number of sanitary and hygienic standards and restrictions, which determine their location on the site.
Minimum distances from the toilet to other objects:

• To water sources (wells, boreholes, lakes, rivers) – 25 m;
• To houses, cellars - 12 m;
• To a summer shower or bath – 8 m;
• To the nearest tree – 4 m, and to the bushes – 1 m;
• To fences - at least 1 m.

Diagram: correct location of the toilet relative to other buildings on the dacha plot

Important! When choosing a construction site, it is worth considering not only the objects located on your own site, but also those located on the neighboring one.

So that summer evenings on the terrace are not spoiled by the amber, the place is chosen taking into account the wind rose. If the site is located on a slope, it is better to install the toilet at the lowest point.

Construction of a cesspool

After selecting and preparing the site, they begin to dig a cesspool. As a rule, it is square in shape and at least 2 meters deep.
There are two types of cesspool:

• Sealed. The bottom of such a pit is concreted, reinforced before pouring, and to prevent the reinforcement from sinking in the concrete, it is placed on pegs. The walls are also sealed, puttied with mortar or the seams covered with bitumen.

Sealed pit latrine

• Absorbing. It is better to dig such a hole down to the sand, then the liquid fraction of sewage will quickly sink into the ground. The bottom is covered with a layer of coarse crushed stone or pebbles.

Absorption cesspool design

There are several ways to strengthen the walls of a cesspool:

• Brickwork;
• Concrete structure;
• Ready-made reinforced concrete rings;
• Plastic tank.

The pit is covered from above, with beams, slate or concrete, leaving only the area under the toilet seat open, and they begin to assemble the toilet house.

Construction of a toilet house

The optimal dimensions of a country toilet are 1×1.5 m, height – 2.2-2.5 m. Otherwise, it will simply be inconvenient, especially for people with large figures. It is not necessary to make toilet drawings yourself, if there are no special requirements and you can use ready-made ideas.
First of all, the scheme is convenient in that it allows you to correctly calculate the amount of building materials and the preliminary cost of a yard bathroom.

Construction of a toilet over a cesspool (proper placement diagram)

Frame base

It is recommended to move the toilet house 2/3 forward above the cesspool, thus providing access for cleaning behind the rear wall of the structure.
The stability of the building can be ensured by a shallow foundation. Between it and the frame, waterproofing is laid, 1-2 layers of roofing felt. But for light construction made of wood it is not at all necessary. It is enough to install the base on concrete blocks.
You can also install four support posts. To do this, four holes about 60 cm deep are dug in the corners of the future structure, up to 1 meter deep in soft soils, and asbestos pipes are lowered into them. The hole is filled one third with cement mortar. After this, a support beam is installed in the pipe, and the hole is completely filled with concrete.

Installing the toilet base on concrete blocks

Frame assembly

To build a frame, beams with a cross-section of 50×50 or 80×80 mm will be sufficient; it is not advisable to take larger material.

• First, assemble a rectangular support with a jumper from which the front wall of the toilet seat will rise, and screw it to the foundation or support posts. A board is laid on top. The thickness of the floor board must be at least 3 cm.

Construction of a wooden frame for a toilet

• The frame of the front, rear and side walls is assembled from timber. In this case, the front wall should be at least 10 cm higher than the back wall, this will ensure the necessary roof slope.
• For greater structural strength, it is recommended to make diagonal jibs on the side and rear walls.
• On the front wall, be sure to make a reinforcement for the door of the appropriate size and make a hole for the window.
• The frames of the walls are secured to the base with metal corners, and a strapping is made on top and at the level of the toilet seat.

Strengthening the toilet frame with metal corners

• The next step will be to assemble the toilet seat frame and cover it, if alternative options are not provided, for example, a floor-standing toilet.

Frame covering

The frame is covered with wooden boards. The vertical arrangement allows you to significantly save material, and the horizontal one imitates a log house and looks more interesting. The boards are tightly fitted to each other and attached to the base. Instead of wood, corrugated sheets, slate or any other material that matches the construction budget are also used.

Toilet frame trim

Advice! It is advisable to treat all wooden structural elements with a special antibacterial impregnation, which will protect the material from moisture and pests, and then coat it with varnish or paint.

Roof

The roof should not protrude beyond the walls by more than 30 cm. Installation begins by securing parallel boards at a short distance. After this, the visor is sewn up from below, and boards are attached to the outside around the perimeter. A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared base, usually roofing felt, after which the structure is covered with any roofing material (slate, metal profile, bitumen shingles).

For a toilet, erecting a simple flat roof is enough

Summer residents who are not satisfied with the standard layout of the house can look for drawings of more interesting options, make it themselves or purchase ready-made toilet houses; they are assembled like a construction set, and for convenience they are necessarily accompanied by instructions and all the accompanying drawings.

Exhaust ventilation

Exhaust ventilation in a country toilet is a pipe that removes odors from the cesspool. Its lower edge is inserted into the hole, and the upper edge should rise above the roof by at least 20 cm.

Ventilation of a country toilet

A plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters is suitable for arranging ventilation. It is pulled to the rear wall from the inside or outside of the building and fixed with iron clamps. To increase traction, a deflector attachment is installed on the head.

Installing a toilet door

Doors are installed using ordinary wooden, ready-made plastic or home-made ones, from the material with which the frame was sheathed. Hang the door on 2 hinges. In principle, the closing method can be any, traditionally it is a latch, latch or hook, outside and inside. It is better to avoid more sophisticated locking systems, for example, with latches, since their mechanism will be exposed to moisture and will quickly rust.

Two hinges are enough to install the door

Lighting

For more comfortable operation of amenities, it is better to take care of their lighting in advance. This could be a wall lantern that is battery powered. As an option, you can install electrical wiring and connect a small lighting fixture.

Lighting options for a country toilet

During the day, a small window will illuminate the interior space. It is usually cut out above the doors or at the top of the door, but there are actually more options, from figured windows on the walls to a transparent roof.

Advice! A cesspool will last longer if you do not throw toilet paper and other hygiene or household items into it, so there must be a bucket in the toilet. If the size allows, it is convenient to install a regular washbasin with a hanging spout here, especially since the rowing pit is already ready.

Powder closet: construction features

The absence of a cesspool is the main difference in construction. But there are some differences in the design of the house. You will have to think about a way to remove the container in which the sewage is collected.

Scheme: powder closet device

The door is usually equipped on the back wall of the house or the front wall of the toilet seat. Inside the cabin there is a special box for peat (ash, sawdust). You also can’t do without ventilation here, only the pipe is not lowered into the hole, but directly under the toilet seat.

Construction of a toilet in the country: video

The installation of external sewerage in a summer cottage often does not require special knowledge; the main thing is to choose the right place and draw up a simple drawing. It will not be difficult to build a toilet in your country house according to the drawing with your own hands if you adhere to the technology and carry out each process efficiently. There are several types of country toilets, so before starting construction you should familiarize yourself with the features of their construction.

Their design is extremely simple: a hole dug in the ground, a solid ceiling with a hole in the center on top, and a frame with doors covered with boards or iron. You can install such a toilet in a few hours. More durable structures are made of brick, but the principle remains the same.

The next option is a backlash closet. This type of toilet has a completely sealed pit, the contents of which are removed using a sewer ora machine. The toilet cabin is not always located above the pit and can be built into the wall of the house. Pros: no need to look for a site for a building, convenient to use in any weather. Disadvantage: for cleaning you need to hire special equipment, which is very expensive.

Another type of country toilet is a powder closet. This structure is being erected on a flat area, without a cesspool. For feces, a small container is installed under the toilet seat, which is removed after filling. This option is convenient for those who visit the dacha only periodically, because regular emptying of the container will still require the construction of a cesspool.

Choosing a place for the toilet

When choosing a site for construction, it is necessary to take into account the distance to residential buildings and neighboring areas, the height of groundwater, the location of wells with drinking water, and the topography of the site.

Even with proper care, unpleasant odors may emanate from the toilet, and the contents of the cesspool will seep into the ground. According to sanitary rules, the distance between a domestic well and a country toilet must be at least 25 m. This includes not only wells located on the site, but also those belonging to neighbors.

You need to retreat at least 12 m from the residential building, and 1-1.5 m from the boundaries of neighboring plots. It is allowed to build a cesspool only if the height of the groundwater is no more than 2.5 m. On relief terrain, choose the lowest one for the toilet plot.

And lastly: the toilet should have easy access not only for household members, but also for special equipment, which will have to be periodically hired for cleaning. These rules apply only to toilets with pit cesspools; there are fewer requirements for the construction of other types.

Closet construction technology

The most labor-intensive is construction of a pit toilet, so it is recommended to study the technology from it. The construction process includes the following stages:

• pit preparation;
• strengthening the walls;
• construction of a toilet house;
• ventilation device.

You can complete each stage yourself using the simplest tools. After choosing a site for construction, you should decide how to strengthen the walls of the pit, as well as what the house will be assembled from.

Any base is suitable for a wooden frame, but if the house is planned to be built of brick or stone, the walls of the pit must be reinforced very securely. For convenience, first draw up a drawing of the future toilet and calculate the amount of material from it. When everything is ready, you can start working.

To dig and strengthen a hole you will need:

• roulette;
• pegs and cord for marking;
• ladder;
• bayonet and picking shovels;
• sand and crushed stone;
• tamping;
• concrete solution;
• brick, stone or concrete rings.

On the prepared area, markings are made in the form of a square with a side of 1 m. Use shovels to remove soil to a depth of 2 m, trying to leave the walls even so that the hole does not lose its shape. If the pit is reinforced with concrete rings, the pit is made round; its diameter should be 7-10 cm larger than the diameter of the ring.

It is not worth digging a pit of greater depth: this will require additional material consumption, and the time to fill the hole will increase quite a bit. But you also don’t need to save money and make the pit too small, because then the toilet will have to be cleaned very often.

There is no need to remove all the soil taken out of the hole right away - it will still be needed for backfilling the floor. If groundwater lies close and the soil on the site is not dense enough, the pit should be made airtight to avoid soil contamination. To do this, the bottom is covered with a layer of sand and small crushed stone, thoroughly compacted, and filled with concrete.

The concrete solution is prepared in the following ratio:

• 1 part cement M 400;
• 4 parts sand;
• 6 parts fine crushed stone.

Crushed stone can be replaced with medium fraction slag, reducing the amount to 4 parts. Water is added after mixing the dry ingredients in small portions. The finished solution should slide off the shovel easily, but not spread. After pouring the concrete, work is suspended for at least 7 days: during this time, the bottom will be sufficiently hardened and subsequently will not be eroded by the contents of the pit. To avoid cracking, during drying the bottom should be periodically moistened with water and covered with a film from the sun's rays.

The most practical option for strengthening the walls of the pit is brickwork. You can lay brick walls yourself, even without the relevant experience. It is not recommended to use sand-lime brick; it is better to use fired red brick. The masonry is made in half a brick in a checkerboard pattern, using a sand-cement mortar. The wall thickness should be about 20-25 cm, then the reinforcement will be quite reliable and durable. The top row of a brick wall is usually raised 10-15 cm above the soil level.

To ensure that the masonry remains vertical during work and does not deform, it is recommended to lay no more than 6 rows of bricks at a time and continue work no earlier than after 7-8 hours. During this time, the solution will have time to set and dry a little, so the walls will remain smooth. Every 3 rows you need to check the verticality of the masonry with a building level. The finished walls are plastered with the same solution and covered with bitumen mastic.

If concrete rings are chosen for strengthening, you will not be able to do the work yourself. To facilitate the installation process, the hole is first dug to a depth corresponding to the height of the ring. With the help of technology, the concrete product is lifted above the hole and carefully lowered down, and then they dig up with a shovel and remove the earth from under the base.

The soil must be chosen evenly so that the ring that settles under its own weight is horizontal. Any, even minor, distortions will complicate the sealing of the pit.

After installing the first one, proceed to installing the second ring. The concrete is lifted again on cables and leveled above the hole, after which it is carefully lowered. Now they dig up the ground below in exactly the same way until the concrete drops to the required depth. The last ring should rise about 10 cm above the soil. All joints are sealed with mortar and covered with bitumen mastic. When the walls are strengthened, the bottom is covered with crushed stone and sand, compacted and filled with concrete mixture.

In areas with dense soil and low groundwater levels, sealing the pit is not necessary. After excavating the earth, the bottom of the pit is covered with sand and compacted, and then red brick walls are laid out. The lower rows are laid with staggered gaps, which provide additional drainage. As the walls rise, the gaps between the bricks are reduced, and, starting from the middle and to the top of the pit, the masonry should be continuous.

Such strengthening will protect the walls from destruction by the roots of trees that may grow nearby. Finally, the bottom is covered with a layer of large pebbles or crushed stone for filtration.

Construction of floors

The ceilings for a country toilet must be strong enough to support the weight of the house and a person. For a wooden structure, a simple columnar foundation and thick timber floors are suitable. At each corner of the cesspool, stepping back from the walls by 15-20 cm, make a square depression, fill it with crushed stone and sand and concrete it.

Brick pillars up to 20 cm high are laid on top of the concrete and covered with a piece of roofing felt for waterproofing. While the foundation is being built, the floor beams are being prepared. Select strong, even beams from dense wood, cut them to the required length, impregnate them with an antiseptic primer and dry them.

Dry beams must be coated with two coats of paint to extend the life of the wood. After this, a rectangular frame 1x1.2 m is assembled, securing the beams with bolts. In the middle, the frame is fastened with a beam, and then one of the resulting halves is once again partitioned with a piece of timber.

Now the frame is installed on poles so that a whole half of the frame is located above the pit. The part with the partition will be under your feet. The bolted frame is covered with boards 3 cm thick.

If the toilet is made of brick, it is necessary to make a strip foundation. A shallow trench 25-30 cm wide is dug on three sides of the pit. The fourth side of the pit should protrude 20 cm beyond the perimeter of the foundation. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the trench, a reinforcement frame is laid, and the foundation is filled with concrete.

The resulting box is covered with metal channels or concrete columns every 30 cm, the rest of the space is covered with reinforcement or chain-link mesh. A spacious hole is left above the pit itself, and a plastic pipe with a diameter of 15 cm is attached to the side. One end of the pipe is lowered 10 cm into the pit, the second end is brought out.

After this, the ceiling is poured with concrete.

Construction of a wooden house

To build a wooden house you will need:

• dry timber with a section of 100x100 mm;
• 4 wooden beams;
• boards for cladding;
• level and tape measure;
• hammer, nails;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• wood primer;
• slate;
• loops and hook.

First, the front and back parts of the frame are assembled from timber. The height of the front part is approximately 2.1 m, the height of the rear part is 2 m. The width of both frames is about 1 m. The inside of the frame is reinforced with spacers made of timber, while in the front part the spacers should not block the passage. On the base of the floor, 4 beams are installed in the corners and secured with metal plates and anchor bolts. All frame elements are treated with a primer and the installation of the frame begins.

The face frame is inserted between the front beams and leveled vertically using a level. Having secured it with nails, insert the rear frame and also level it. The frames are fastened together with transverse bars on the sides of the building.

The upper bars on which the roof will be attached are located at an angle, since one frame is lower; The bars should protrude 30 cm in front and 15 cm in the back.

The next step is to install the frame for the pedestal. To do this, another beam is nailed inside the box at a height of 45 cm, which will divide the toilet into 2 parts. Parallel to it, the same beam is attached to the rear frame and 2 more on the sides. When the frame is ready, you can sheathe it. Boards, thick plywood, imitation timber, and corrugated sheets are suitable for cladding. The inside of the pedestal is covered with boards in which a hole is cut.

You can insert glass above the doors or simply cut out a small diamond shape.

A ventilation pipe is attached to the rear wall using special clamps and its upper end is brought out through the roof. Then boards are placed on the frame beams at regular intervals, and slate is laid on them. All that remains is to assemble the door, fasten the hinges and hook, and hang the door leaf. Many people install lights in the toilet to make it easier to use in the dark. To make it more decorative, the house can be painted or painted.

Brick house

To build a brick toilet house, you need to have at least minimal skills. Such a structure is more reliable and durable, and also has an attractive appearance.

It is very important to lay out the corners correctly, otherwise the structure will be skewed.

After laying the first two rows of bricks, a wooden frame for the doors should be installed; it must be strengthened with spacers made of beams or timber installed outside. At a level of 40 cm from the floor, metal corners are inserted between the bricks of the rear wall to secure the podium. Having reached the top, another 1-2 rows of bricks are made in front to raise the roof. If wiring is planned in the toilet, a section of hollow tube is concreted between the bricks, through which the wire can be easily pulled.

For the podium, boards 30 mm thick are attached to the corners, and the vertical part is laid with bricks. You can sheathe the entire podium with boards by cutting a hole at the top.

The next step is to attach the ventilation pipe. While there is no roofing, the plastic pipe mounted into the base of the toilet from the side of the pit is lifted and fixed to the back wall with clamps. The upper end is passed through the floor beams and raised above the building by 20 cm. After this, the roof is mounted, the door is hung, and a light bulb and switch are hung.

Such a toilet is installed directly in the country house or next to it. A wide pipe extends from the toilet, the other end of which is built into the septic tank. The construction of a septic tank begins with digging a pit, the depth of which is about 1 m. The bottom is filled with crushed stone, formwork is installed along the walls, and then everything is filled with concrete mixture. When the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed, and after complete drying, the surface is treated with mastic.

Outside, around the perimeter of the pit, clay is poured in a layer of about 50 cm. The septic tank is covered with shields on top, covered with clay and only a small hole is left for the hatch. The hatch is tightly closed first with cast iron and then with wooden lids, laying insulation between them.

After purchasing a private house, the first thing you should think about is an outdoor bathroom, even if there is one in the house itself. An outdoor toilet is a very profitable building in the warm season. At the same time, when working in the garden, you do not need to go into the house in dirty clothes. It can be built quickly enough and construction will cost quite inexpensively. Walls can be erected from various materials: boards, slate, brick, cinder block, etc., but do not forget about the external beauty of the bathroom.

We bring to your attention the option of building an outdoor bathroom from cinder block.

Necessary materials
1. Red brick (depending on the size of the cesspool).
2. Old boards.
3. Fittings.
4. Sand, crushed stone, cement.
5. Hatch for the cesspool.
6. Concrete blocks (12 cm thick).
7. Frame for the doorway.
8. Window frame.
9. Door.
10. Window.
11. Plastic (for interior decoration).
12. Tiles (for interior decoration).
13. Toilet with cistern.
14. Decorative mesh (for vent).
15. Decorative stone.
16. Slate or other roofing material.
17. Decorative stone for external wall decoration.

First, you need to decide on the location of the future bathroom. It must be removed from the recreation area, but the path to it should not be difficult.

It is necessary to dig a 2x2.5 hole with a depth of 1.5 m.

The bottom is not concreted, and the walls are made of red brick. Why red? Because it is more resistant to moisture. At the same time, do not forget about the gaps between the bricks, of which there should be quite a lot. They are needed so that moisture goes into the ground.

Along the upper perimeter of the walls of the pit, formwork should be laid and a 150 mm hole should be left for installing the drain. At the back of the pit, provide a hole with a diameter of 50 cm for a hatch.

Rebar, old boards should be laid on the formwork and filled with pre-prepared cement mortar (cement, sand, crushed stone and water). This is the future floor of the summer bathroom. To be reliable, it should be 10 cm high.

The floor hardens for several days. If the weather is hot, then to prevent cracks, it needs to be watered periodically.

Then the concrete block walls are laid out, but first the frame for the doorway must be installed and secured. If desired, you can also consider a window.

On top of the walls it is necessary to install logs and formwork for the future ceiling with a slope to drain water.

Fill the ceiling with cement mortar and, after complete hardening, cover it with any roofing material of your choice.

The door is hung and the window is installed.

Interior finishing begins. The walls and floor can be tiled, and the ceiling can be covered with plastic.

A toilet with a tank is installed. You should make an opening in the wall and cover it with a decorative mesh.

Then water and light are supplied. Plastic or metal-plastic water pipes must be laid through the air in order to drain water in the winter.

An exhaust pipe is installed from the cesspool to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the bathroom.

It is necessary to install a sewer hatch.