Paving slab production technology. Do-it-yourself tiles for paths How to fill tiles for paths

Recently, paving slabs have been successfully replacing asphalt and concrete. Many people prefer to lay out garden paths, alleys and areas near their houses with it, as it looks more organic in the overall landscape.

In addition, the slab allows the surface it covers to “breathe”: the circulation of moisture and air is not disrupted, natural microflora is preserved in the soil, which does not interfere with the growth of trees and bushes planted along the path.

To create a coating of an exclusive design, they most often choose to produce paving slabs with their own hands, despite the rather labor-intensive process of their manufacture.

A home-made stove is about 20% cheaper than a factory-made one. Besides At home you can make samples of any often non-standard shape and paint them in the colors of the desired shades.

An important advantage is the acquisition of skills in the manufacture of a popular product. Over time, this may well be useful for opening your own enterprise for the production of paving slabs.

If this experience is not transformed into a way of earning money, then the production process itself will certainly bring aesthetic pleasure and pride from the work done.

The advantage is the confidence that high-quality materials were used and in the right quantity, i.e. deception is excluded.

The disadvantage of homemade products is their less strength and durability. The fact is that in factory conditions this concrete product is most often made using the vibration compaction method: pressing with a special press is added to the usual technology. Therefore, the material is more dense. This coating can withstand heavy loads and can be installed in areas with heavy traffic.

A slab made at home (by vibration casting method) absorbs more moisture than a purchased one. Over time, especially in winter when exposed to frost, it can crack and crumble or simply wear off.

This coating is protected with hydrophobic solutions. This extends the life of the stove.

On the pages of our website you will also learn how it should happen. We have prepared step-by-step instructions for you.

Consumables and raw materials

For production, you should stock up on the necessary equipment and tools. The main ones are a concrete mixer, and.

The solution contains three required ingredients: water, sand, cement. But for a higher-quality slab, coarse filler, plasticizer, dye, and dispersant are added to the mixture. You also need mold lubrication.

Quantity calculation

To prepare a high-quality solution, you should adhere to the percentage of ingredients. Below is a table of components for making paving slabs 6 cm thick.

Step-by-step instruction

Here are detailed instructions on how to make paving slabs with your own hands and what to do to avoid mistakes in your work.

Composition of the mixture for the solution

The plasticizer is dissolved in a small amount of warm water. You need to make sure there are no lumps.

The pigment for making colored paving slabs with your own hands should be diluted with hot water (the proportions in the solution should be in the ratio 1:3). The dye should dissolve completely.

These components are thoroughly mixed with sand, then crushed stone is added. Then everything is mixed with cement. A little water is added during the process. At the end the main amount of water is supplied.

The mixture is considered ready if it adheres tightly to the trowel without spreading around the edges.

How to prepare the form

Lubricant is applied to the inner walls, making sure that no stains from the substance remain there. To ensure that the mold is not too greasy, excess grease is carefully removed with a dry cloth.

If the surface is not greasy enough, it will be difficult to remove the tiles.

On our website you will also learn the basics, as well as how to choose the right material!

We'll tell you the features of laying wild stone in the yard with your own hands, and how to calculate the amount of material needed.

We'll tell you everything about the process of paving paths with bricks: we have prepared detailed instructions for you.

Molding

The solution is poured into the molds. For two-color tiles, first lay a layer of colored and then gray concrete.

The forms are placed on a vibrating table, where they are shaken for about 5 minutes. Foam should appear on the surface, indicating the release of air bubbles.

Drying

Forms with concrete are stacked on flights or racks to dry for approximately 1-2 days. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, they are covered with cellophane film.

The tile is carefully knocked out of the mold over something soft, such as a blanket. If the product is difficult to remove, then the mold with filling is lowered into a container with hot water (about 60 degrees), which will make removal easier.

After this, the tiles are left to dry for another month. Only then will it be suitable for use.

Important nuances in production, error prevention

If at some points the technology for the production of paving slabs was not followed, then Various errors may appear.

• Paint is unevenly distributed. Most likely, it was poorly diluted or the product was overexposed on a vibrating table.
• It is impossible to pull the tile out of the mold. The walls were not lubricated enough.
• Bubbles or holes have formed. The tile was little vibrated and all the air did not escape from the mixture.
• The tiles began to crumble. Indicates that the proportions are not respected or the material is of poor quality.

In this video you will learn how to make paving slabs at home - a simple DIY technology:

Safety precautions when working

When working with cement, one of the most harmful factors is dust. That's why Before preparing the mixture, you should put on overalls: gloves, respirator or protective mask.

But it is also important to ensure that diluted dye or plasticizer does not come into contact with your skin or eyes.

You need to be careful when the concrete mixer is working. You should check the integrity of the wires and sockets, do not test the quality of the concrete and do not correct problems when the equipment is plugged in.

Although the process of preparing paving slabs is labor-intensive, the result is worth it. In a month, garden paths laid out with a beautiful exclusive coating can turn your garden plot into a small masterpiece of landscape design.

And the gardener is an amateur, trying to improve his plot and make it more comfortable. One of the main factors of successful gardening is garden paths, because they carry the function of maintaining a clean and tidy appearance on the site; it is ten times more pleasant to work at such a dacha, and hence your increased labor productivity.

Many of the summer residents make these roads from various materials, mainly brick and tiles that have become obsolete. They can also be made of wood or stone, in short, whatever, the most important thing is free and performs its main function.

Nowadays, stores also have a huge variety of paving slabs and other similar materials for arranging paths, but such beauty is not always affordable for a simple summer resident.

The author decided to save money on purchasing paving slabs and come up with his own way of paving paths without special expenses and with maximum savings on the family budget. The author used the simplest principle: he made a square shape out of planks and greased it with waste oil so that the solution would not stick to the matrix later. I prepared the area where the path would be located in the future, laid the form on the ground, laid the mortar and leveled it, and after a few minutes raised the form, and the tiles remained in place, that’s the whole principle of making tiles with your own hands. And so now we will look in detail at how the author does this and what he needed for this.

Materials: boards, cement mortar, waste oil.
Tools: hacksaw, shovel, trowel, brush, hammer.

And so, first of all, he prepared the place for the future path, removing the turf and leveling the surface.

Then I prepared the mold by greasing the inner edges with waste oil.

Next, I laid out the forms in order.

I prepared a cement mortar at a ratio of one to three, that is, 1 part cement and 3 parts sand.

Then I put it in the form. It took him a bucket of solution for one section.

After filling all the forms, I leveled them with a trowel.

And then he lifts the mold, and the tile remains in its place.

That's all, I made my own garden path without much expense and with maximum savings on the family budget.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their country plot or areas around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially since losses are possible during transportation, which means purchasing tiles with a reserve will also be an extra expense. That’s why many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount of money.

Advantages of making tiles yourself

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable in design and color.

If you decide to start making paving slabs yourself, then you need to be prepared for quite labor-intensive work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the appearance that the owners intended when developing the landscape design of their properties.

The advantage of making it at home is that you can create an exclusive version of the tile yourself, which is not produced on an industrial scale, nor in general, nor by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own tile version, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even shapes, since casting matrices can also be made independently.

Molds for making paving slabs

If the store did not find a tile of the required configuration, or it was found, but the price is too high, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in quantities of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for landscaping paths and areas on the site.

paving slabs

To do this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, from which the molds are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern or a stone you like with its shape can be used as a starting sample.

The matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but during the production of the tiles the work will go much faster.

To make the mold you will need formwork material and, naturally, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20÷30 mm in height and 12÷15 mm in width. It must be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35÷60 mm. A plywood box, cardboard box or any other material that can withstand the pouring of plastic mold composition is suitable as formwork. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound or silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In the assortment of construction stores you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stones and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them is the domestic composition “Silagerm 5035”, as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding compound is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

	Hardness 30±3	Hardness 40±3
Time for the formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more.	45÷100	45÷100
Viability (min), no more.	60÷120	60÷120
	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more.	1	1
Viscosity (cP).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.07±0.02	1.07±0.02

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for making the matrix must be thoroughly washed and dried.
• Next, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in a 2:1 ratio, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to maintain the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer attachment, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will end up with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is placed face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the pouring should sit for 5-7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the form can be removed from the formwork. However, it can only be used for its intended purpose 72 hours after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80÷120 degrees.
• The mold made from the compound will last a long time if it is treated with the special composition “Tiprom 90” before filling it with mortar for making tiles.

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

brick paving slabs

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general, similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as sealant. You need to buy as much of it as you need to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, you should open the factory packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. Regular grease is most often used as a lubricant.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which is dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone takes much longer to dry than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the mold for the tiles in advance, for example, devoting winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or at least at positive temperatures .

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Normalized values	Test results
Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (min) no more.	30	5÷25
Viability (h), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Flow resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by mass (%) no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conventional years, no less.	20	20

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to make matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on a suburban site may not differ at all from those in the neighborhood.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (unless particularly necessary, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do it. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, you cannot do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It never goes out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and neatness. It is especially important to use this tile option to design the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold measuring 300x300 mm and 30 mm thick is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​called “California shagreen”. Plastic molds are convenient because they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during laying of the solution, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and to make it easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with a greasy lubricant before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile may change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose this mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step is to mix water, dry dye and plasticizer until smooth in a separate container.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer - this process must be carried out for at least 3-5 minutes.
	After kneading, you should get a fairly thick, viscous, coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density during the process of laying it out in the mold and compacting it.
	Next, the resulting mixture is poured into a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed as evenly as possible over the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed using a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with solution, it must be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Next, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaken, air bubbles will emerge from the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops escaping completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table yourself. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and may change upward in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has passed, the matrix is ​​turned over and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold to make the product come away from it more easily.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must completely dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying a full load to the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production.

Production of original paving slabs “pine cut” in polyurethane form

The original design of platforms and paths is the laying of round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual rotting and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles that imitate a cut of wood will be an excellent replacement for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to do than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called “pine cut” because it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and a relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of roughened pine bark.
	To manufacture such products, a flexible polyurethane mold is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which will later help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with “annual rings”, one such tile will require white cement 100÷150 g, medium sand - 300÷350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20÷25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, colorant and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All ingredients are mixed well until smooth. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax lubricant. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a deceptive impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only over the inner part of the form, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side separating the middle part of the “round timber” from the improvised “bark”.
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. The mixture cannot be diluted, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid one below, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, after the initial distribution the mold is moved back and forth across the table surface and gently shaken.
	Next, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly onto the mold.
	After this, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allocated for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60÷70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement are mixed well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, part or all of the remaining solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in the matrix. First, it fills the edges of the form, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out over the entire surface of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue; one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made.
	Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​carefully turned over.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must dry completely and gain strength; this will require at least 2-3 days. When drying, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If you decide to make a mold for such tiles yourself, then as a basis you need to take natural round timber from any wood you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound during the manufacturing process of the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not be achieved. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small edge will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can carefully fill it yourself with a grout or regular cement composition.

Paving slabs made “on site” using a stencil

Another affordable way to arrange garden paths is to fill them with concrete using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly improve not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This instruction can help you figure out how to properly prepare the space for paths and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

cobweb paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For such work, you will need to prepare the following tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing the solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable to deliver the mixture to the pouring site. After familiarization with the work process, each master can add tools to the list that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	Materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for laying on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it must be taken into account that from one 50 kg bag of cement you can get 6 ÷ 7 slabs measuring 600 × 600 mm and 60 mm thick. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unfenced area the path will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after concrete is poured into it and it gains strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, separated by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are attached, which will help you easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not be overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for filling it. To do this, first of all, the fertile layer of soil is removed from the marked area, approximately 100–120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the sprouting grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it conscientiously, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the path is formed.
	Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared area, treated from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its unique reinforcement, coarse crushed stone can be laid in the internal space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be made as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, a dye is added.
	If 5-6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is mixed in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement you need to prepare 250 grams. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine crushed stone, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Add enough water to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are being made, then it is permissible to add color in an amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared solution is filled into the laid form. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is spread with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, it will be easy to place the mass in the corners under the stencil bridges. It is better to add more mixture than required than not to add it, since the excess can be easily removed with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled along the upper bridges of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of future tiles to perfect smoothness, since their wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes for the solution to set, the stencil is removed from the tile by grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet hardened completely, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile if you move awkwardly.
	The result should be a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, maintaining a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, sand bedding or a support made of flat stone or ceramic tiles is made in one or two corners.
	Next, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the slabs and borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of special lawn grass, which rises only 30-50 mm.
	The spaces between the slabs can also be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, which can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs.
	If desired, during the manufacturing process of such a coating it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula.
	If you want to add some color to your garden plot, you can make the tiles multi-colored by filling the cells of the stencil with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always lift your spirits. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. This way the work will be more efficient, since a solution of the same color can be used to fill areas in several stencils at once.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must definitely ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all the work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work of arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, having only two or three similar matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the areas of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying them correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if you can’t do the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will be at least equal to the cost of the tiles themselves.

The stencil will not allow you to make serious mistakes. Even without any experience in this field, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality, neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased care is shown, and the novice master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs to look like natural wood

The technology for producing paving slabs is quite simple. You can do it at home. To make paving slabs you will need fairly affordable equipment. Judge for yourself, the most expensive thing you will have to buy is a concrete mixer. You can make a vibration table yourself. You will have to buy molds for tiles, but today they are not as expensive as before. A good uniform made of quality material can be purchased for as little as $1 per piece. The price of the form is determined by the quality of the material, the size and design style of the form itself. To fully equip the line, you need to purchase a collecting shovel, a good metal bucket of 10 liters, a bucket that will be filled with ready-made tiles, and rubber gloves for safe work. When you have a fully complete line for the production of paving slabs, you can purchase and deliver raw materials for production:

• cement grade not lower than A-Sh-400;
• plasticizer C-3;
• pigment dye;
• granite screening;
• lubricant for molds.

The production cycle itself can be divided into several stages:

• preparation of plastic forms;
• preparation of colored concrete;
• vibratory casting process daily;
• excerpt;
• stripping and new preparation of forms.

Paving slabs are manufactured using a simple technological process

Preparing molds before manufacturing vibrocast products. Paving slabs are made using simple equipment:

• vibrating table;
• concrete mixer;
• forms.

Here are detailed instructions for making concrete products using the vibration casting method. At the beginning of the production cycle, it is necessary to prepare molds for pouring. It is better to use plastic forms. The technology provides for nuances in the forming and demoulding of vibration-cast products. Before manufacturing, we lubricate the molds with a special lubricant for high-quality formwork. The lubricant also increases the service life of the molds up to 500 cycles or more. It is better to wash greased forms after stripping before the next pour. This is also very important. For beginners, it is better to purchase special lubricant. If desired, you can make the lubricant yourself. But here it is important to clearly guess the proportions. This is how you make lubricant for plastic molds. 50 grams of motor oil should be diluted in 1.5 liters of water. You need to shake this mixture very well and for a long time. Experiment very carefully with the proportions of the lubricant. It is important for you to choose the ideal balance of fat content. Too much grease will ruin your entire batch. After very greasy grease, you get shells in the tiles. These paving slabs are more like shell rock. Low fat content in the lubricant will not give the desired effect when stripping. After greasing the molds, you can prepare the concrete.

Preparation of components for the preparation of concrete. Before preparing the concrete mixture, you need to prepare the concrete mixer itself. Use a bucket of water to rinse the nutria concrete mixer. Be sure to pour out the water. The walls where the concrete will be mixed must be damp. To make paving slabs, you need to make half-wet concrete. Its strength and the duration of aging of products in molds depend on this. Wet walls will mix the concrete composition better and will prevent the concrete mixer from becoming heavily clogged with mortar deposits. Next, you should prepare a plasticizer and concrete dye. The plasticizer should be 0.5% of the amount of all components of the solution in dry form. For 40 liters of concrete you will need 200g. plasticizer. Under no circumstances should plasticizer be added in dry form. It must be cooked first. Dilute 200g. plasticizer in 1 liter of hot water 70-80 degrees Celsius. The water must be hot so that the plasticizer dissolves well. Beating the hot water well in a measuring cup, add plasticizer powder in small portions. Precipitation should not be allowed; it must dissolve well. Next we prepare the concrete pigment dye. The percentage of dye should be at least 2% of all components in dry form. If you make high-quality paving slabs, you cannot skimp on dye. You should end up with a rich concrete color that will last for years. Pigment dye is quite expensive and many are trying to maintain production costs by saving on plasticizer costs. But this approach is unjustified. After a year or two, the tiles will lose their color. Two years after rain, wet tiles will look like new, but when dry, the color is almost invisible. To justify saving dye, it is better to use the technology of filling in two layers. Fill the molds halfway with colored concrete and immediately with colorless concrete. Such tiles will be even stronger. Only the intervals between filling layers should not exceed 20 minutes. This way you can save expensive dye by 2 times. Pre-dilute 800g of dye in a 3-liter jar of water at a temperature of 40-50 degrees. Mix thoroughly and add in small portions. Under no circumstances should precipitation be allowed in the dye. This sediment can damage your tiles. A small clump of dye residue in the face of the tile makes the sink. Thus, paving slabs may lose their presentation and strength due to poorly diluted dye. If the pigment dye is not diluted well, it will not impart the proper color to the tile.

Technological process for manufacturing vibrocast tiles. When our forms are greased, the plasticizer and pigment dye are diluted, the concrete mixer is moistened, we can hammer the concrete. The technology for manufacturing paving slabs has its own characteristics for preparing concrete. This is a low water composition. The strength of concrete products depends on the ratio of cement and water. One has only to add 30% more liquid and the concrete will lose its strength by 2 times. The tile mortar, as mentioned above, should be half wet (like wet soil). It may seem too dry to you, but once it hits the shaking table, it will seem too wet. This is the trick that awaits you in the process of making paving slabs. Therefore, we add less water than cement by 30% of the volume. 3 buckets of cement require 2 buckets of water, including plasticizer and dye. This kind of concrete is quite difficult to mix. To do this, you need to pre-moisten the concrete mixer. Well, now we turn on the concrete mixer and first of all pour in a measured portion of water without dye and plasticizer. Next, add a portion of cement and mix to form a homogeneous emulsion (popularly called milk). Then we add screenings and we already have a solution. Mix well and add the pre-diluted components: plasticizer and dye. And mix it all well until we get a beautifully colored homogeneous mass.

This recipe for semi-dry concrete is intended for vibration casting of thin-walled concrete products or for the production of cinder blocks on a homemade machine.

When we have the concrete ready, we fill out the forms and place them on the vibrating table. The number of molds on the table plays an important role in the intensity of vibration. The table springs should not be too overloaded or too loose. The vibration must be at a certain intensity. Once you have placed the forms with concrete on the table and turned on the vibrating table, the magic begins. Dry concrete begins to turn into liquid. More and more space appears in the forms and you need to fill them out more. It seems that the forms on the vibrating table already contain liquid concrete, but if you turn the form over, its contents do not fall out, but stick tightly to the edges of the form - which means you are doing everything correctly. The vibration duration should last approximately 4-5 minutes. With proper vibration, do not turn off the vibrating table until white foam appears on the concrete in the forms. This indicates that all the air has escaped from the concrete. Then remove the forms and take them to a room protected from sunlight. The tile dries literally within a day. It is helped in this by the low water content and the plasticizer that is included in the tiles. The plasticizer not only imparts elasticity during formation, but also effectively dries and enhances the strength of the concrete product. The next day you can remove the formwork and you have finished tiles. It needs to rest for 5 days before being sold. This will give it maximum strength. The forms must be washed after stripping, even though they have been greased. Concrete is so tenacious that it still leaves marks on plastic forms. You can't wash them off with plain water. It's better to use a lot of salt. Prepare a high concentration saline solution in advance. This makes it much easier and faster to wash plastic molds for paving slabs.

Calculation of profitability in paving slab manufacturing technology

In order to produce 1 square meter of paving slabs we need:
One bucket of cement brand A-Sh-400 - price per bucket $1.5
Three buckets of screenings - price for three buckets is $0.4 (cost of screening for 4 tons with delivery = $32)
Plasticizer 200g. - price for 200g. $0.4 (price per bag of plasticizer 25 kg = $47).
Pigment dye 400g. (subject to two-layer filling of forms, color / colorless) - price 0.9 $ (30 kg bag = 62 $)
TOTAL: $1.5 + $0.4 + $0.4 + $0.9 = $3.2, and the cost of one square meter of colored paving slabs = $7.5.
Business profitability is 135%. The technology for producing paving slabs brings quite a significant income. Of course, a certain percentage of rejection is possible. But the defect of such material will always find its use on a construction site. With such profitability, it can be priced competitively under different conditions. For example, when ordering 1000 squares there is a 30% discount. Colorless paving slabs have the same level of profitability. But it's harder to sell. Colorless tiles can be offered to create budget patterns when laying. This way you can save money and decorate your tile flooring.

Equipment for the production of paving slabs and prices

To make paving slabs you need to buy equipment.

Name	Photo	Price
Concrete mixer.		The price depends on the volume in liters, on average $1.5 per liter. Concrete mixer 300 l. will cost $450. The larger the volume, the cheaper the price per 1 liter.
Vibrating table		You can do it yourself; it will cost you $180 maximum. A new one will cost from $500. I highly recommend making a vibration table with your own hands, there is nothing complicated there.
Molds for making paving slabs.		It is better to take forms from good thick-walled plastic. The cost of such forms is from $1 per piece. For one square meter of rocky-shaped covering you will need 25 pieces. And for a “brick” shaped square you need to buy 50 molds. It all depends on the size of the tile.
Bucket. Shovel. Latex gloves.		Available to everyone.

To calculate payback periods, we need the following indicators: cost of equipment in dollars productivity of square meters per day cost of production dollars per 1 sq. m. profitability in percent (%).

It is better to start calculating the payback period of a business with performance indicators

Let's say we want to produce 40 sq.m. Rocky-shaped tiles per day. We will need a 300 liter concrete mixer (this will be approximately 6 pumps of mortar) costing $450. Homemade vibration table $180. Molds $1 * 25 pieces per square meter “Rocky” * 40 sq.m. = $1000. Bucket, shovel, rubber seals = $20. The total cost of purchasing equipment is $1000+$450+$180+$20=$1650. The selling price of forty square meters of the finished product will be 40 square meters. * $7.5 (price per 1 sq.m.) = $300. And the cost of tiles is 40 square meters. * $3.2 = $128. With an established sales market, the turnover balance (net profit) is $300 - $128 = $172 per day. It is important to note that the cost of production does not include the cost of wages to workers. The plan is designed for one person. This means you will need to prepare 1000 forms. Preparation may take up to 5 days. For this reason, your true balance per day will be $172 / 5 days = $34. Therefore, a fair payback period for equipment will be: $1650 (equipment purchase) / $34 (net profit) = 50 days. If you plan to work on weekends, then 50 days / 22 working days = 2.5 months.

Pros and cons of the paving slab manufacturing business

Overall the business looks very attractive. Advantages of a business idea: The idea does not require specialized investments to start High percentage of profitability Simple technological production process Short payback period. Of the minuses it is worth noting. Business depends significantly on seasonality. The process of preparing forms is quite long and boring (all forms need to be washed off the concrete with salt water and treated with lubricant). Anyone can start this business. It can be made both the main and additional source of income. The production of vibrocast products can also be used for cost savings. For example, consider purchasing tiles for laying near your home as an alternative.

If you have a construction project underway, then you probably already have a concrete mixer. You will make the table yourself, but you need to buy the molds. In cases of defective products, they can be used for other purposes at a construction site. If you are a very cautious person and are not ready to take risks, then purchase a couple of forms and try your hand at a meager cost. I assure you, everything works out for you. Paving slabs are a popular product in the building materials market. This is a consumable item. This is the most practical covering for the yard. For example, asphalt releases toxic fumes when heated. Concrete cracks at sub-zero temperatures. The mobility of the tile covering allows you to freely replace worn areas. Believe in the product you are selling and people will buy it from you.

The most popular material for creating paths in the garden today is paving slabs. It can come in a variety of shapes and shades, and is convenient for creating simple and intricate patterns, which is why owners of suburban areas like it so much.

But not everyone can afford high-quality paving slabs. But making it at home is much cheaper. If you follow the instructions and technology, paved pedestrian paths will last for many years.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is not an easy task. But the manufacturing process is a creative and exciting activity that gives a lot of pleasant impressions.

What is needed to make tiles

The main thing you need to create paving slabs with your own hands is:

• sand;
• water;
• forms.

Experienced craftsmen recommend using M500 cement to make tiles yourself at home. Products made from it are more durable.

The sand should be sifted: there should be no leaves, grass or other debris in it. If you buy sand in a store, it is better to take 04.-0.6 mm fraction. The water for preparing the solution must also be clean.

Although each homemade cement tile mold can be used more than a hundred times, it's worth buying a dozen or more to make the job go faster.

You can make paving slabs using improvised means. For this, plastic containers, homemade forms made from wooden blocks, and so on are often used. No one limits your imagination. To create a pattern and relief, you can also use all your imagination - the owners of garden plots use any materials to create a pattern on the tiles: relief figures and even tree leaves.

Other necessary materials and tools:

• Hammer with mixer attachment or
• vibration table (optional)
• bucket or other large container for mixing
• fine crushed stone fraction up to 1 cm or screenings
• Plasticizer S-3 (preferably to give greater strength)
• clean glass containers
• measuring cup
• lubricant (emulsol, OPL-1, SVA-3 and other lubricants without petroleum products)
• brine (saline solution) for washing molds

Mortar proportions for making paving slabs

There are dozens of recipes to make paving slabs. However, one of them has gained the most popularity. Note that this recipe for preparing a solution is only suitable for gray tiles (without adding dyes).

Required proportions for making paving slabs:

• Cement - 25%
• Sand - 20%
• Crushed stone - 55%
• Plasticizer S-3 - at the rate of 10 g per 10 kg

For 80 kg of solution you will need approximately 15 liters of water. But it is better to focus on the consistency, pouring water gradually.

And for colored tiles you can use this recipe:

• Cement - 20 kg
• Sand - 35 kg
• Crushed stone - 35 kg
• Plasticizer - 70 g
• Inorganic dye - 500 grams

To make paving slabs of the desired shade, there is one secret. The point is to experiment with the amount of pigment in a small volume of solution and remember the proportions.

Making paving slabs with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

• When stirring the solution, do not pour in a lot of water at once! If the solution is too liquid, this is bad for the strength of the final product.
• Some owners of suburban areas place forms with slabs directly on the path and leave them to dry right on the spot. This option is also appropriate if there are no animals in your garden that can spoil the texture of future paving stones. In addition, in this case the path will have to be reliably protected from rain so that the tiles do not get wet.
• You can make paving slabs with your own hands without using a plasticizer. However, this component will give the tile greater strength and increase resistance to temperature changes.
• Don't be afraid if there are small stones in the sand. This will not reduce the quality of the slab, but the texture will be more original.
• For better laying of paving slabs, the surface should be compacted; for this you can buy a vibrating plate or vibrating tamper, and as a cheap analogue you can use timber, having first attached handles to it.

The abundance of shapes and colors of decorative cement paving slabs will allow you to turn your garden into a real masterpiece. This is exactly the case when the work is worth the result. Hand-made tiles for garden paths not only look beautiful - they will provide comfortable walks around the site even in the rainiest weather!