Tact button for flashlight. A good flashlight Fenix RC20, completely devoid of customization capabilities. Android applications for working with the button

27.10.2019

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Stopped turning on. The culprit was quickly revealed - a button.

The malfunction may consist of either a breakage of the button itself or poor contact of the tail of the flashlight. To begin with, the tail must be disassembled.

To unscrew the fixing clamping ring, you can use nail scissors if you do not have a tool designed for such purposes.

After this, the button assembly becomes available, consisting of the button itself, a spring and a “pill” at its end. The spring can be unscrewed, after which only the button itself remains non-removable.

Here you can verify that the problem lies in the mechanism of the button itself. This can be done by ringing the button-closing contacts while flipping the switch. In my case there was a gap all the time.

I was lucky, and the button turned out to be not only collapsible, but also without any latches or other firmly securing mechanisms. That is, it turned out to be quite serviceable. To disassemble it, it is enough to move its two halves apart. Moreover, for convenience, there are two slots on the sides where you can insert a flat-head screwdriver and open the button.

The insides of the button are nothing ultra-technological. The only complicated part is the state switching mechanism. It has no visible damage, so let's look further.

Since there is nothing else to look at, the only candidate left is this small spring. It probably unscrewed a little from its plastic spindle-holder, which is why it stopped contacting the lower platform. We just screw it in further, by the way, it has a left-hand thread (screw it counterclockwise).

When assembling, we first assemble the switching mechanism; you need to correctly set the position of the parts so that the protrusion of the button at the back comes out completely, and the white part is completely inserted into the black one. Then we simply fold the halves and press them well until they are completely joined.

The check showed that the button works, which means that the problem really was that this small spring was not turned enough. Considering the somewhat flimsy nature of this entire structure, the spring could simply move on its own during delivery, for example. It’s so simple, but I’ve already started adding a new button to the cart.

Appendix 1

It seems that this spring constantly has problems with contact with the lower platform, since over time the button again begins to behave inappropriately, and rattling appears. I decided to solder a spring to this pad. It is better to first remove the pad from the body, otherwise it can be damaged. Soldered, assembled, 5 minutes, normal flight, let's see what happens in a week or two.

I can’t find a good button for sale - either they don’t write the maximum current, or it’s too small (up to 1.5 A). Therefore, you have to tinker with what you have, strengthening contact.

Addendum 2

The problem appears again and again and it very much seems to be due to poor contact between the housing and the side contacts of the button, or due to poor contact between the spring (in the tail of the light) and the central contact of the button. After each search of the tail, the button works normally for some time, and then problems with the contact begin again - first the rattling increases, then the flashlight sometimes does not turn on at all.

However, this button is still of very mediocre quality, and I cannot yet completely exclude it as the source of the problem.

Update dated October 7, 2015

A few months ago I lubricated the contacts inside and outside the button with silicone grease (PMX-200). I don't see any more problems with contact. This lubricant is a dielectric, so it is not obvious how it can help here. The fact is that it creates a film on the surface of the contacts that protects from the external environment. But at the same time, the lubricant does not interfere with the passage of current, since it easily leaves (squeezes out) from the contact spot. To restore an oxidized contact, just lubricate it with this lubricant and remove the oxide layer, click the button several times, for example.

Hello! I present to you a detailed review of a good flashlight Fenix RC20, which is perfect as an expensive gift for a person who is little familiar with flashlights and lithium batteries.

To avoid any misunderstanding, I will give a decoding of some “flashlight” terms that will appear in the article:

- Lantern head– the front part of the lamp, responsible for the distribution of light. Often the control electronics (driver), emitter (LED), reflector and protective glass are located there;- Flashlight body/tube– serves to connect all parts of the flashlight into a single whole, as well as to place power supplies;- Tail– serves as a kind of “cover” for the lantern. By unscrewing it, you can remove the batteries for replacement/charging. It usually contains a button and sometimes a charging module;- LED/emitter/diode– LED (light emitting diode), the main element of any flashlight that emits light. In most cases, the LED is from Cree - it is the undisputed leader on the market. It is followed by three less common companies: Nichia Chemical (Japan), OSRAM Licht AG (Germany) and Philips Lumileds (USA). Well, there is a whole army of very “green” and not so “green” companies, even several Russian companies. Xenon lamps can also be used as an emitter, but this is a completely different topic;- Hops/second hops– refers to Cree LEDs, in particular Cree XM-L (hop) and Cree XM-L2 (second hop);- Pill– a head element that receives heat from the LED and transfers it to the body. It is usually screwed into the head of the light (older folk Convoys or some branded flashlights), or is part of the head housing (solid head), as in the new Convoy and most branded flashlights. Sometimes it is simply pressed into the head or pressed with a locking ring, like in cheap shitty fireers. They are made from either copper alloy (bronze/brass) or aluminum alloys. Clean mening is used/turned only by “lantern makers”;- Driver (current stabilizer)– used to power LEDs with fixed current. There are pulse and linear ones, the latter often have low efficiency, but are several times cheaper than pulse ones. There are also 3 types: step-down, step-up and step-down-boost (only in branded flashlights);- Carcass (Host)– in the usual sense, the head, body and tail are assembled, without electronics and LEDs. Designed mainly for self-assembly of a flashlight with individual elements. In relation to ready-made flashlights, the term “carcass” refers only to the body, i.e. removing old elements, usually drivers, LEDs, buttons and optics, and installing new ones;- Clip– serves to hold the flashlight on the visor of a baseball cap/hat, or in a pocket;- Button sealing rubber (Tailcap)– serves for moisture protection, usually made of silicone or soft rubber. It can be light accumulative (glows in the dark);- O-ring/gasket– also designed for moisture protection, usually installed in front of the glass, or in places of threaded connections. It can also be light-accumulative;- Knurling– designed to create a more aesthetic appearance of the flashlight, as well as to hold it more securely in the hand;- Carving– designed to connect parts of the lantern. With O-rings, a very strong sealed connection is obtained;- Anodizing– coating of metal with an oxide film of other metals/compounds – designed to protect against external influences, increase the strength of the coating, and also to protect against traces of luminium (aluminum tends to get dirty);- Switch/button– to control the flashlight modes, there is a power button (designed for switching high currents) and a tactical button (for switching low currents). There are forward and reverse clicks, i.e. inclusion before and after fixation. Some with a latch, some without a latch. Clock ones are designed to work with pulse drivers, power ones with linear ones;- Bezel/crown– designed to protect the anodized layer of the head when placing the flashlight on the head, as well as for more convenient maintenance without disassembling the entire flashlight (in Convoy S2/S2+/S5/S6/S8 you need to disassemble the entire head to access the LED or optics). Well, for aesthetic reasons, because... some people prefer carcasses with shiny edging;- Glass/lens– to protect the inside of the flashlight from dust/dirt/water. There are glass and plastic (PMMA, polycarbonate). The latter are very fragile, scratch easily and have a transmittance of about 90-93%. Ordinary glass ones transmit 99% of light, do not scratch, and can also have an anti-reflective coating (in branded lanterns);- Reflector/reflector- responsible for light distribution. There are short-range, medium-range and long-range. The deeper the reflector, the longer the range (it shines far). The reflective surface comes in both smooth (SMO) and textured (OP) finishes. The latter have a less pronounced border between the hotspot and side illumination, and also a slightly wider central spot, and there are no artifacts. Smooth reflectors usually have peculiar rings along the side illumination;- TIR lens/optics– used to change the beam of light. There are also both long-range and short-range ones. With the same dimensions, the angle may be different. The most common are from 15 to 120 degrees (the most popular TIR is 60 degrees). The latter, in turn, have a wide, uniform illumination, which is simply necessary in headlamps;- Central spot/hotspot– concentrated/directed light flux, which has increased brightness compared to side illumination. Usually it is pronounced in long-range flashlights and looks like a centrally bright spot in the center, and on the sides there is barely visible side flare with artifacts. TIR lenses 45-120 degrees are completely devoid of hotspot;- EDC flashlight (Everyday carry - carry every day, translation from English)– compact flashlights, in the Convoy line this is the S series.;- Runtime– lamp glow time- Stock/stock version– parameters set by the manufacturer. In stock there is usually always the cheapest, bluish diode of the U1/U2 bin, but brighter.- Brightness stabilization– regardless of the battery charge level – the output is always, say, 450lm. In this case, as a rule, the driver is down-up, i.e. While the battery is fresh, the driver works as a step-down driver. As soon as the battery is low, drivever begins to work as a booster. Flashlights with such drivers are quite expensive.- Stepdown– a sharp or smooth decrease in LED output power according to a certain algorithm, i.e. in simple words, reducing the output current to the diode. There is a temporary stepdown (reducing the current after 3-5 minutes), multistepdown (reducing the output power, say, after 5 minutes from 950 lm to 600 lm, and after a couple of minutes even, for example, to 450 lm), thermal stepdown (reducing the current depending on heating the lantern). I think these terms will be enough.

The Fenix RC20 flashlight itself:

Brief technical characteristics:
- Manufacturer - Fenix
- Model number – RC20
- Main light source – Cree XM-L2 U2 LED
- Color temperature – 6000-6500K (pleasant cool shade)
- Maximum luminous flux – 1000 lumens (in Turbo mode)
- Reflector – aluminum smooth/SMO
- Driver – pulse (brightness stabilization in each mode)
- Battery type – built-in 3.7V Li-Ion 18650 ARB-L1 2600mah (regular 18650 banks without “manual application” are not supported!)
- Built-in charging – yes, charging module in the docking station (dock, adapter with USB output and cable included)
- Charge/discharge indication – rough (LED)
- Lantern color – black
- Maximum range of luminous flux – 290 meters
- Material – aviation aluminum with HA-III coating (for military equipment)
- Waterproof - yes (IPx8 standard, protection against prolonged immersion in water to a depth of 2m)
- Modes – a total of 3 groups of 7 modes:
- - - main group – 4 modes (1000lm, 425lm, 150lm and 10lm)
- - - simplified group – 2 modes (1000lm and 150lm)
- - - special signal (hidden) – 1 mode (adaptive strobe)
- Mode memory – yes (non-volatile)
- Management:
- On/off – power button in the tail of the flashlight
- Switching modes using a clock button in the tail of the flashlight
- Dimensions – 161mm*40mm
- Weight - 152g/203g (without/with ARB-L1 2600mah battery)
- Warranty – 2 years

Distinctive features of the lantern:

- average size of the flashlight (quite a long flashlight)
- powerful luminous flux of 1000lm in turbo mode
- lack of neutral LED shades in the line (only a pleasant cool shade)
- two control buttons in the tail of the flashlight - power (on/off) and clock (mode change), which are great for one-handed operations
- highly efficient switching driver with digital brightness stabilization (brightness stabilization in each mode)
- smooth, but fairly fast change in the brightness of the glow (both up and down)
- rough indication of battery discharge (the indicator color is different depending on the discharge)
- automatic low battery warning (flashing red light)
- two mode control groups to choose from (main and simplified)
- non-volatile mode memory
- Instant on/off function and quick access to strobe
- thermal stepdown in TURBO mode (smooth reduction in current when the flashlight temperature reaches 65°C)
- the ability to charge the battery without disassembling the flashlight (the kit includes a charger with a built-in charging module)
- high-quality network adapter/power supply for 5V/1.5A with USB output
- lack of support for conventional 18650 lithium batteries, i.e. to increase operating time, you need to buy a more capacious “branded” battery, for example, Fenix ARB-L2 3400mah, or customize
- non-separable design of the head and tail (threaded connections are most likely glued together)
- a rather massive head with pronounced cooling fins
- tempered mineral glass with special anti-reflective coating
- waterproof in accordance with the IPx8 standard (long-term immersion in water to a depth of 2 meters), as well as a declared impact resistance of 1 m
- reliable design (can be used as an under-barrel flashlight)
- availability of additional accessories

Contents of delivery:
The flashlight is supplied in a black plastic case. The case is medium in size (26cm*20cm*6cm), stickers with the main specifications are present (LED type, main features of the flashlight, batteries, typical applications of the flashlight and glow time in various modes):

Inside the box there is a polypropylene box - a kind of protection during transportation; everything you need fits in it:

I would like to add that the case is of good quality, does not bend, and most likely will be used for other purposes as a box for various parts or will be transferred to the car for additional accessories. The case lock is convenient, although a little flimsy:

The equipment is as follows:
- Fenix RC20 flashlight
- Li-ion battery Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah
- charger (docking station with a meter charging cable and a 5V/1.5A network adapter/power supply with USB output)
- 1 spare O-ring
- case
- lanyard
- instructions in 6 languages, including Russian
- warranty card

The instructions are small, there is nothing superfluous in it, it is short and clear, everything is to the point:

So, let's go directly to the lantern:

Lantern dimensions:

The manufacturer claims 161mm*40mm, everything fits:

Comparison with previously reviewed flashlights Nitecore P12 and Convoy BD03:

Well, what can I say, the lantern turned out to be a little long, I would like it to be a little more compact. Comparison with a typical Li-Ion 18650 battery:

Flashlight weight without battery/with battery Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah only 152g/203g:

Protection from external influences:

Briefly about IP standards (taken fromfrom here)

IPx8 moisture protection is declared, meaning that the flashlight can easily be immersed in water to a depth of 2 m (more than a meter) for a long time:

Water test (lantern at the bottom of a small bucket):

Light source:

The light has a Cree XM-L2 U2 LED (nice cool shade) that produces 1000 lumens. The LED is installed in the center, no distortions, dust or fingerprints:

The glass/lens in the flashlight is tempered mineral, at an angle you can see a slight purple tint of the anti-reflective coating:

The flashlight is medium-long-range, the illumination angle is approximately 100°, but thanks to the fairly deep reflector there is a clearly defined hotspot (bright spot), it hits the distance well:

Controls and operating modes:

The Fenix RC20 has a total of 7 modes - 4 modes in the main group (turbo - 1000lm, maximum 425lm, medium - 150lm and minimum - 10lm), 2 modes in the simplified group (turbo - 1000lm and medium - 150lm) and 1 hidden mode (adaptive strobe ). The modes are selected quite competently, switching from weak to strong mode. When replacing the battery or breaking the power supply circuit (unscrewing the tail), the memory of the last mode is not reset (non-volatile). In other models, in such cases, the flashlight usually starts from the default mode.

A very interesting feature of the flashlight is a simplified group consisting of only two modes, very convenient:

Mode->brightness->glow time with Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah battery:

The main group of modes - 4 main glow modes:

- Maximum (425 lumens) – 2h 55 min (175 min)

- Low (10 lumens) – 120h

A simplified group of modes - 2 main glow modes:
- Turbo (1000 lumens) – 1 hour 10 minutes (70 minutes), total time taking into account thermal control
- Medium (150 lumens) – 9h 50 min (590 min)

Hidden mode group - 1 special signal, accessible from both the main and simplified groups, as well as from the off position:
- adaptive strobe (alternating “fast” and “slow” strobe)

In turbo mode there is a smooth thermal stepdown, i.e. reducing the output current to protect the LED from overheating when the flashlight temperature reaches 65°C.

Thanks to the intuitive control interface and the location of both buttons in the tail, the flashlight can be easily controlled with one hand:

The control of the flashlight is very simple. The power button (round) turns the flashlight on/off in the previously used mode (non-volatile mode memory), and the clock button switches modes, from low to high. A light press on the power button instantly turns on the flashlight in the last used mode. At the same time, as soon as you release it, it turns off. The strobe is hidden, accessible from any state of the lantern (quick access). To activate, you need to hold down the clock button for half a second. When the flashlight is on, the strobe will work continuously; when it is off, it will work as long as the button is pressed. To switch to simplified mode and back, you need to hold down the clock button for 3 seconds. First, the strobe is activated (after 0.5 seconds), and after 3 seconds the flashlight will blink 2 times and then light up continuously, indicating that a transition to another control mode has been made.

Another interesting feature of the flashlight is a smooth, but fairly fast change in brightness when switching brightness modes, both up and down, which creates the impression of “slowness.” It’s unusual at first, but it helps in the dark.

The head has a rough multi-color indicator of the charge of the inserted battery and, depending on the discharge of the latter, when you briefly press the semicircular clock button, it can light up/blink in green/red. In this case, if the battery charge is critical, the indicator turns on automatically and starts flashing red:

Here are the same indicators:

- low battery level - indicator lights red

Nutrition:

The flashlight is powered by branded 3.7V Li-Ion Fenix batteries, which differ from the usual ones in their large dimensions (72.5mm * 20mm, i.e. roughly f/f “20720”) and duplicated output contacts (plus and minus are connected to both sides of the can). Regular 18650 batteries will not work without some additional charging, because... The diameter of the battery compartment is 20.8 mm and there is a high probability of shorting the bank. The flashlight comes with a branded 3.7V Li-Ion battery Fenix ARB-L1, with a capacity of 2600mah:

Battery dimensions 20mm*72.5mm:

The flashlight does not have any mechanical protection against polarity reversal, because the output contacts of the branded battery are duplicated (plus in the center, minus in the ring, on the edge):

Inside the battery, most likely, there is a typical Samsung/Sanyo 2600mah with a protection board, just the contacts are on both sides. If everything goes well, I'll try to disassemble the battery cassette and remake it for regular cans. And so the design of the contacts is quite simple:

It was naive to believe that there would be voltage at the charging contacts, otherwise the inserted battery could easily be short-circuited, for example, in the rain, but I still checked:

No voltage is supplied; most likely, there is a diode in the way that allows current to flow in only one direction, i.e. from charging. For those who find a battery capacity of 2600mAh not enough, the line includes a more capacious model Fenix ARB-L1, with a capacity of 3400mAh.

Stabilized brightness is declared in each mode, i.e. As the battery discharges, the luminous flux does not change. Most likely, a buck-boost pulse driver is installed here. If you evaluate it by eye, then up to a voltage of 3.3V, the driver “pulls” all modes, with the exception of TURBO; below only medium and low are available, maximum and turbo are inactive. But at a very low voltage (about 2.8V), the average mode is reset to minimum. There is stabilization by eye, but since there are no instruments (light meter, for example), I can’t check it. And you can’t measure the current from the butt, so we’ll take the manufacturer’s word for it.

Included charger:

The charger consists of a docking station into which the flashlight itself is inserted, a 5V/1.5A adapter/power supply with a USB connector and a cable:

The manufacturer has taken care of the ease of use of the flashlight - to charge it, you don’t need to unscrew, take out, observe polarity, etc. You just need to plug the flashlight into the docking station and go about your business (the docking station is foolproof). The red indicator lights up during charging. Once the battery is fully charged, the green indicator will light up and you can remove the flashlight. Everything is banally simple:

The flashlight is charged with a current of 0.9-1A (CC/CV algorithm, the current decreases towards the end of the charge), which is basically normal, although for me it’s not enough (I’m already used to driving all my banks with 2A current):

For more details about the charger, see under the spoiler (opening and tests):

The docking station is a plastic box with spring-loaded latches and output contacts:

As you can see from the photo, the protrusions are uneven, the flashlight only fits in one position. The docking station has two through holes and moderately tight latches, so it can be mounted vertically on the wall without the flashlight falling out. The docking station and cable form a single unit, the cable length is about 1 m:

The charging module itself is built into the docking station (not into the flashlight, as, for example, in the Convoy BD03):

The adapter is of high quality, holds the declared 1.5A (limitation) without any problems, can be used for other purposes for charging smartphones/tablets:

Testing a 1A/2A adapter with a load (does not produce more than 1.5A, there is a limitation):

At idle the green indicator is on, the voltage at the contacts is 4.2V:

Additional accessories:

A lot of additional accessories are sold for the flashlight - diffusers, light filters, remote buttons, various mounts:

The kit includes only basic accessories: a lanyard and a case. The lanyard is the simplest, without a lock:

Together with the case:

Partial disassembly:

Thanks to the Fenix company policy, it is not possible to disassemble the flashlight while maintaining the appearance and declared characteristics, because Most threaded connections are tightly glued. Therefore, the flashlight can be disassembled into only two parts: the body (head and tube) and the tail:

Head with pronounced cooling fins:

For better heat transfer, quite deep cooling fins are machined on the head. Coupled with the massive head, the heat dissipation turned out to be good.
If disassembly is necessary, the head is pulled off in the place where the Fenix RC20 inscription is written. Also, in my opinion, a kind of wide bezel should be unscrewed, but it is also glued or locked from the inside of the head; I could not unscrew it with my hands (where the “HOT” inscription is). The current supply in the head is the same as in the tail:

The tube has a rectangular knurl for better holding of the flashlight:

The thread is trapezoidal, wide, about 5 turns, there will be no leaks even without O-rings :-). The thread is anodized and not at all greased, there is some squeaking when tightening/unscrewing:

On the other hand, there is no need to lubricate the threads, because the batteries here are specific, they cannot be charged in a third-party charger, but the included charger with a charge current of 0.9-1A should be enough for many. Therefore, there is no particular need to disassemble it.
Anodized thread is a very big plus, because... You don’t have to worry about the flashlight turning on spontaneously in your bag/pocket. You just need to unscrew the lid a little and the flashlight will not turn on spontaneously.

Lantern tail:

As you can see, there are two buttons: power (round) and clock (semicircular). The power button is a direct click (turn on until it clicks), thanks to which it is possible to instantly turn on/off, which can be useful, for example, at sea (give commands using a combination of flashes). With some skill you can implement your own strobe light :-). Unfortunately, the power button does not completely break the circuit, because when the power button is turned off, a strobe is available by pressing the clock button. As I understand it, there is still current in idle mode (power supply to the MK).

There is only one protrusion for gartering the lanyard, which makes it easier to control with one thumb, but the flashlight has lost the ability to be placed on its tail (candle mode):

Although the manufacturer does not claim highly efficient gold-plated current leads (springs and contacts), they are the same as in the Nitecore HC50 headband. I believe that in the Fenix RC20 they also have minimal resistance and do not oxidize over time.

My “artisanal” beamshots:

Since I don’t have a normal camera, and I’m a complete layman when it comes to photography, I’ll shoot as usual - with my SGS3 smartphone camera. On the left is the stock Nitecore P12 XM-L2 T6 3B, on the right is the reviewed Fenix RC20 XM-L2 U2, 1.5 meters to the wall.
Minimum mode vs minimum mode:

Beamshots in a large unlit box/hangar:

Will be a little later

Comparison on the ground (forest road), TURBO mode:

So, let’s summarize the main features of the flashlight:

General management information:
- Lightly pressing the power button – instantly turns on the flashlight in the previously used mode (as soon as you release it, it turns off)
- Fully pressing the power button until it clicks – turns the flashlight on/off in the previously used mode
- Short press on the clock button – switching modes from low to high
- Holding the tact button for 0.5 seconds with the flashlight on or off – activation of the hidden adaptive strobe (from the off state, the strobe is active only while the tact button is held down)
- Holding the clock button for 3 seconds – changing the main or simplified group

Rough battery charge indication:
When the flashlight is not working and you press the mode switch button (semicircular button) once, depending on the battery voltage, the multicolor indicator built into the head (between the charging contacts) lights up/flashes green/red for 3 seconds:
- sufficient battery level – indicator lights green
- low battery level - indicator lights green
- critical battery level - indicator flashes red constantly (turns on automatically)

Wishes to the developers:
- add the ability to disassemble the flashlight so that you can “customize” it, i.e. disassembled and reassembled without any problems (most likely excluded, since it is contrary to Fenix company policy)
- add support for third-party Li-Ion batteries
- add to the line lanterns with a neutral LED shade, or with a warm shade
- implement voltage indication when the flashlight is running (under load)
- refine the rough indication: make three indicator LEDs or one multi-color, or color-coded voltage. In its current form, the charge indication is not of particular practical interest (while the first place in terms of indication is confidently held by Nitecore with their patented charge display technology with an accuracy of 0.1V)
As an example (3 diodes of two colors, 6 steps, step 0.2V, starting from 2.8-3V):

Pros:
+ brand, quality guarantee
+ high output power of 1000lm
+ additional cooling fins (at home the temperature control works quite rarely, outdoors most likely never)
+ durable anodizing of all parts of the flashlight
+ universal light beam (mid-range)
+ well-thought-out modes, as well as the presence of a simplified group of two modes (TURBO and medium)
+ simple and convenient one-handed control from the butt (most people find it more convenient)
+ instant switch function, i.e. direct click power button (it is possible to transmit conditional signals, for example marine ones)
+ smooth increase/decrease of brightness and quick access to strobe
+ non-volatile mode memory
+ pulse driver with high efficiency (digital brightness stabilization)
+ thermal stepdown, which reduces the output power when the temperature reaches 65°C (the massive head takes a long time to warm up, the stepdown will not interfere)
+ rough indication of low battery
+ the presence of a “built-in” 1.5A charger in the kit, i.e. no need to disassemble the flashlight (approximate charging time for a 2.6Ah battery is about 3 hours)
+ excellent adapter/power supply for 5V 1.5A (suitable for smartphones/tablets)
+ an excellent ready-made expensive gift (gift case and built-in battery included)
+ high-quality plastic case (perfect for your needs)
+ high moisture protection class IPx8 (up to 2m)
+ availability of additional accessories

± both control buttons (power/clock) are located in the tail (with the given dimensions of the flashlight, I personally would like to see the clock button on the side of the head, but then the ability to control with one hand is lost)
± lack of lubrication on threaded connections (there’s really no need to unscrew the butt)

Minuses:
- non-demountable design, i.e. impossibility of replacing LEDs or repairing electronics (although you can get there if you want)
- lack of options with a neutral LED shade (coupled with the impossibility of disassembling at all)
- third-party batteries are not supported (the problem can be solved)
- the power button does not completely turn off the power, because the clock activates the strobe (I can’t check it, because the design is almost non-demountable)
- charge current is only 0.9-1A (for me personally, the current is indecently low)
- cannot be placed on the tail (candle mode)
- price

Conclusion:Overall a good flashlight, but too many limitations. I immediately remembered a comparison of smartphones running Android and iOS (Apple). This flashlight is somewhat reminiscent of an Apple device: the design is good, the workmanship is good, the features are there, and it’s easy to use, but you can’t customize it for yourself and the price is huge. There is no more “digging” into the filling, as they say, and it only supports everything that is your own, dear. Therefore, in my opinion, this model will not be widespread, but those who are alien to various body movements and the search for batteries and chargers will like this flashlight...

Today we will talk about a rather controversial accessory, namely a physical button that can be connected to the headphone jack and assigned various actions to it. Let’s try to figure out how convenient and necessary it is in this review.

A little background

This great idea originally appeared on kickstarter - Pressy (link). The project was quite ambitious and quickly reached the amount required for commercial implementation (about 700 thousand dollars). At first the idea took off, and there was a lot of excitement - mentions of the accessory were in almost all major technical publications. After all, the idea is really good - a miniature button that can be connected to the headphone jack of a smartphone (Android/iOS) and programmed for various actions, for example: one press turns on the flashlight, two presses take a picture with the camera, one short press and one long press launches some... or an application - there can be a huge number of combinations.

But despite the excellent idea and good implementation, the excitement quickly died down, since the creators are asking about $30 for a very simple device (a headphone jack with a resistor inside and a clock button on top). And this, in my opinion, is a lot for such a simple device.

And then, as usually happens, Chinese manufacturers picked up the idea and made a lot of “Klick quick buttons” under different names (Klick, MiKey and others), but completely identical from the technical side. The price, naturally, has dropped significantly - and varies depending on the quality of workmanship from 5 to 15 dollars, which corresponds to this simple device. Next we will talk about one of the Chinese buttons.

Meet - Click

In the huge number of different Chinese click quick buttons, it seemed to me that the quality of execution (both the button itself and the application for setting it up) stands out with one under the simple name “Klick” (the manufacturer even has a website - link).

When the button arrived from China, the quality did not disappoint me: both the button itself and the packaging were all very presentable.

Upon arrival, the box was not wrinkled, but became so already in my possession while awaiting review.

Click - packaging

When opened, the box unfolds, and on its inside we see brief instructions for use.

Klick - equipment

Case for Klick

In addition to the button itself, the package includes a keychain ring and a small case that can be attached to a protein ring or to a headphone cord.

Android applications for working with the button

If you simply connect the button to your smartphone, it will simply be identified as headphones. Therefore, before doing this, it is worth installing applications. There are several options for Android.

Press It! Power Button Psre sy

This application can be downloaded from Google Play (link)from the creators of Psresy.The free version has enough poor functionality; There is an interesting deception call feature (when you press a button, the smartphone starts ringing as if it received a call). It works somehow incomprehensibly - sometimes it reacts to clicks, sometimes it doesn’t, and why is not clear. I don't recommend using this compared to other applications.

Pros of the application:

fake call function.

unstable operation of the application;
It is impossible to configure which scripts work when the screen is locked and which do not.

Miclick (MiKey)

The application is from Xiaomi, it is not on Google Play (it is pre-installed on Xiaomi smartphones), you can download it from 4pda, there is a translated version (link) - thanks to the user malchik-solnce.

The application works stably and clearly - as it should. You can program 10 events (from one to 10 presses in a row). There are quite convenient scenarios (in addition to the standard ones): for example, you can clear the memory of running applications, lock the screen, mute the sound, or take a screenshot.

stable work;
many convenient scenarios (memory clearing, screenshot, etc.);
quick response to pressing a button.

the application does not distinguish between long/short presses;
it is impossible to configure which scripts work when the screen is locked and which do not;
not on Google Play.

Click

This application is from the manufacturer of the “Klick” button and can be downloaded from Google Play (link). The application distinguishes between long and short presses, this is very convenient - this significantly reduces the number of clicks on a button required to execute a script (for example, 4 quick presses is no longer very convenient, one short, one long is much more convenient). It works very stable, but, unfortunately, it has few “special” scenarios (like clearing memory and the like), there is a rather interesting opportunity to take a picture with the camera by pressing a button without launching the camera application (even if the screen is locked), but in reality nothing good things don’t come out of such pictures, you still need to see what is captured by the lens (strictly speaking, this function is also available in other applications, but it only worked correctly for me with this one).

For each scenario, you can choose whether it will work when the screen is locked - this is convenient, because if you carry a smartphone in your pocket, you can’t escape random single clicks.

stable work;
the application distinguishes between long/short presses;
It is possible to configure which scenarios work when the screen is locked and which do not.

few special scenarios.
There is a slight delay (~1.5 sec) from pressing the button to executing the script.

___________________________________________________________________________

To sum up, I can say that I liked the last application the most. The delay when pressing, of course, slightly spoils the impression, but without the ability to choose which scenarios work when the screen is locked and which don’t, it’s not very convenient to use the button (it will still be pressed accidentally), and the ability to configure combinations of long/short presses - this is also very convenient.

Using the Click Button

We seem to have figured out the application, now it’s time to connect the button to the headphone jack of your smartphone.

The button fits into the connector very tightly and stays there tightly - you won’t be able to accidentally lose it. Of course, it sticks out a little from the body, there’s no way around it, but it doesn’t spoil the appearance of the smartphone much and doesn’t interfere with use.

It is worth understanding one obvious thing: when the button is connected, you cannot connect headphones/headsets to the smartphone. If you are used to frequently using the headphone jack for its intended purpose, then plugging the button with the headphones is not convenient. This was a very pressing problem for me, since I was used to using my smartphone as a player. But it so happens that now I use two smartphones, so I transferred all the music to one, and use the second one with Klick. If there was only one smartphone, then, I think, from the additional button I would most likely refused and used the connector for its intended purpose.

Despite the fact that a fairly large number of scenarios can be configured per button (on average, more than five), it’s really not convenient to use more than three or four - if you need to click on the button more than three or four times to launch, then it’s easier to just launch the desired application using traditional ways and not count a bunch of clicks.

When choosing applications to launch quickly via a button, I was guided by two principles: applications that are used most often, and applications that you may need to launch as quickly as possible (for example, the camera). Also, when setting up, it is worth considering that an application configured to launch with one click will inevitably be triggered accidentally (the button will be pressed in your pocket or something else), so it makes sense to configure it so that one click will only work when the screen is unlocked.

Of course, to get used to a new button on a smartphone, to select applications that are really convenient to assign to it, to remember to the level of automaticity how many times you need to press for this or that scenario to work, it takes time. But after walking around for a month, you involuntarily start looking for Klick on all the smartphones you get your hands on.

A few words at the end

Despite the brilliant idea, such a button will not be convenient for every smartphone user. Therefore, if you are thinking about purchasing, you should think about whether it will be convenient to occupy the headphone jack, and what scenarios will be executed when pressed.

I’ve been using Klick for a sufficient period of time to get used to it and understand that the accessory is really convenient, and for its sake you can put up with the fact that the headphone jack on one smartphone will be constantly occupied.

Many people have various Chinese lanterns powered by a single battery. Something like this:

Unfortunately, they are very short-lived. I will tell you further about how to bring a flashlight back to life and about some simple modifications that can improve such flashlights.

The weakest point of such flashlights is the button. Its contacts oxidize, as a result of which the flashlight begins to shine dimly, and then may stop turning on altogether.
The first sign is that a flashlight with a normal battery shines dimly, but if you click the button several times, the brightness increases.
The easiest way to make such a lantern shine is to do the following:

1. Take a thin stranded wire and cut off one strand.
2. We wind the wires onto the spring.
3. We bend the wire so that the battery does not break it. The wire should protrude slightly
above the twisting part of the flashlight.
4. Twist tightly. We break off (tear off) the excess wire.
As a result, the wire provides good contact with the negative part of the battery and the flashlight
will shine with proper brightness. Of course, the button is no longer available for such repairs, so
Turning the flashlight on and off is done by turning the head part.
My Chinese guy worked like this for a couple of months. If you need to change the battery, the back of the flashlight
should not be touched. We turn our heads away.

RESTORING THE OPERATION OF THE BUTTON.

Today I decided to bring the button back to life. The button is located in a plastic case, which
It's just pressed into the back of the light. In principle, it can be pushed back, but I did it a little differently:

1. Use a 2 mm drill to make a couple of holes to a depth of 2-3 mm.
2. Now you can use tweezers to unscrew the housing with the button.
3. Remove the button.
4. The button is assembled without glue or latches, so it can be easily disassembled with a stationery knife.
The photo shows that the moving contact has oxidized (a round thing in the center that looks like a button).
You can clean it with an eraser or fine sandpaper and put the button back together, but I decided to additionally tin both this part and the fixed contacts.

1. Clean with fine sandpaper.
2. Apply a thin layer to the areas marked in red. We wipe off the flux with alcohol,
assembling the button.
3. To increase reliability, I soldered a spring to the bottom contact of the button.
4. Putting everything back together.
After repair, the button works perfectly. Of course, tin also oxidizes, but since tin is a fairly soft metal, I hope that the oxide film will be
easy to break down. It’s not for nothing that the central contact on light bulbs is made of tin.

IMPROVING FOCUS.

My Chinese friend had a very vague idea of what a “hotspot” was, so I decided to enlighten him.
Unscrew the head part.

1. There is a small hole in the board (arrow). Using an awl, twist out the filling.
At the same time, lightly press your finger on the glass from the outside. This makes it easier to unscrew.
2. Remove the reflector.
3. Take ordinary office paper and punch 6-8 holes with an office hole punch.
The diameter of the holes in the hole punch matches perfectly with the diameter of the LED.
Cut out 6-8 paper washers.
4. Place the washers on the LED and press it with the reflector.
Here you will have to experiment with the number of washers. I improved the focusing of a couple of flashlights in this way; the number of washers was in the range of 4-6. The current patient required 6 of them.
What happened in the end:

On the left is our Chinese, on the right is Fenix LD 10 (at minimum).
The result is quite pleasant. The hotspot became pronounced and uniform.

INCREASE THE BRIGHTNESS (for those who know a little about electronics).

The Chinese save on everything. A couple of extra details will increase the cost, so they don’t install it.

The main part of the diagram (marked in green) may be different. On one or two transistors or on a specialized microcircuit (I have a circuit of two parts:
inductor and a 3-leg IC similar to a transistor). But they save money on the part marked in red. I added a capacitor and a pair of 1n4148 diodes in parallel (I didn't have any shots). The brightness of the LED increased by 10-15 percent.

1. This is what the LED looks like in similar Chinese ones. From the side you can see that there are thick and thin legs inside. The thin leg is a plus. You need to be guided by this sign, because the colors of the wires can be completely unpredictable.
2. This is what the board looks like with the LED soldered to it (on the back side). Green color indicates foil. The wires coming from the driver are soldered to the legs of the LED.
3. Using a sharp knife or a triangular file, cut the foil on the positive side of the LED.
We sand the entire board to remove the varnish.
4. Solder the diodes and capacitor. I took the diodes from a broken computer power supply, and soldered the tantalum capacitor from some burnt-out hard drive.
The positive wire now needs to be soldered to the pad with the diodes.

As a result, the flashlight produces (by eye) 10-12 lumens (see photo with hotspots),
judging by the Phoenix, which produces 9 lumens in minimum mode.

And the last thing: the advantage of the Chinese over the branded flashlight (yes, don’t laugh)
Branded flashlights are designed to use batteries, so
With the battery discharged to 1 volt, my Fenix LD 10 simply does not turn on. At all.
I took a dead alkaline battery that had expired in the computer mouse. The multimeter showed that it had dropped to 1.12v. The mouse no longer worked on it, Fenix, as I said, did not start. But the Chinese one works!

On the left is the Chinese one, on the right is the Fenix LD 10 at minimum (9 lumens). Unfortunately, the white balance is off.
The phoenix has a temperature of 4200K. The Chinese is blue, but not as bad as in the photo.
Just for fun, I tried to finish off the battery. At this brightness level (5-6 lumens by eye), the flashlight worked for about 3 hours. The brightness is quite enough to illuminate your feet in a dark entrance/forest/basement. Then for another 2 hours the brightness decreased to the “firefly” level. Agree, 3-4 hours with acceptable light can solve a lot.
For this, let me take my leave.
Stari4ok.

ZY The article is not a copy-paste. Made in I, especially for “NOT PROPAD”!

I welcome everyone who stopped by. The review will focus, as you probably already guessed, on the good universal flashlight Fenix RC20. There seem to be no reviews for this model yet, so if anyone is interested, you are welcome under the cat.

To avoid any misunderstanding, I will give a decoding of some “flashlight” terms that will appear in the article:

- Lantern head– the front part of the lamp, responsible for the distribution of light. Often the control electronics (driver), emitter (LED), reflector and protective glass are located there;
- Flashlight body/tube– serves to connect all parts of the flashlight into a single whole, as well as to place power supplies;
- Tail– serves as a kind of “cover” for the lantern. By unscrewing it, you can remove the batteries for replacement/charging. It usually contains a button and sometimes a charging module;
- LED/emitter/diode– LED (light emitting diode), the main element of any flashlight that emits light. In most cases, the LED is from Cree - it is the undisputed leader on the market. It is followed by three less common companies: Nichia Chemical (Japan), OSRAM Licht AG (Germany) and Philips Lumileds (USA). Well, there is a whole army of very “green” and not so “green” companies, even several Russian companies. Xenon lamps can also be used as an emitter, but this is a completely different topic;
- Hops/second hops– refers to Cree LEDs, in particular Cree XM-L (hop) and Cree XM-L2 (second hop);
- Pill– a head element that receives heat from the LED and transfers it to the body. It is usually screwed into the head of the light (older folk Convoys or some branded flashlights), or is part of the head housing (solid head), as in the new Convoy and most branded flashlights. Sometimes it is simply pressed into the head or pressed with a locking ring, like in cheap shitty fireers. They are made from either copper alloy (bronze/brass) or aluminum alloys. Clean mening is used/turned only by “lantern makers”;
- Driver (current stabilizer)– used to power LEDs with fixed current. There are pulse and linear ones, the latter often have low efficiency, but are several times cheaper than pulse ones. There are also 3 types: step-down, step-up and step-down-boost (only in branded flashlights);
- Carcass (Host)– in the usual sense, the head, body and tail are assembled, without electronics and LEDs. Designed mainly for self-assembly of a flashlight with individual elements. In relation to ready-made flashlights, the term “carcass” refers only to the body, i.e. removing old elements, usually drivers, LEDs, buttons and optics, and installing new ones;
- Clip– serves to hold the flashlight on the visor of a baseball cap/hat, or in a pocket;
- Button sealing rubber (Tailcap)– serves for moisture protection, usually made of silicone or soft rubber. It can be light accumulative (glows in the dark);
- O-ring/gasket– also designed for moisture protection, usually installed in front of the glass, or in places of threaded connections. It can also be light-accumulative;
- Knurling– designed to create a more aesthetic appearance of the flashlight, as well as to hold it more securely in the hand;
- Carving– designed to connect parts of the lantern. With O-rings, a very strong sealed connection is obtained;
- Anodizing– coating of metal with an oxide film of other metals/compounds – designed to protect against external influences, increase the strength of the coating, and also to protect against traces of luminium (aluminum tends to get dirty);
- Switch/button– to control the flashlight modes, there is a power button (designed for switching high currents) and a tact button (for switching low currents). There are forward and reverse clicks, i.e. inclusion before and after fixation. Some with a latch, some without a latch. Clock ones are designed to work with pulse drivers, power ones with linear ones;
- Bezel/crown– designed to protect the anodized layer of the head when placing the flashlight on the head, as well as for more convenient maintenance without disassembling the entire flashlight (in Convoy S2/S2+/S5/S6/S8 you need to disassemble the entire head to access the LED or optics). Well, for aesthetic reasons, because... some people prefer carcasses with shiny edging;
- Glass/lens– to protect the inside of the flashlight from dust/dirt/water. There are glass and plastic (PMMA, polycarbonate). The latter are very fragile, scratch easily and have a transmittance of about 90-93%. Ordinary glass ones transmit 99% of light, do not scratch, and can also have an anti-reflective coating (in branded lanterns);
- Reflector/reflector- responsible for light distribution. There are short-range, medium-range and long-range. The deeper the reflector, the longer the range (it shines far). The reflective surface comes in both smooth (SMO) and textured (OP) finishes. The latter have a less pronounced border between the hotspot and side illumination, and also a slightly wider central spot, and there are no artifacts. Smooth reflectors usually have peculiar rings along the side illumination;
- TIR lens/optics– used to change the beam of light. There are also both long-range and short-range ones. With the same dimensions, the angle may be different. The most common are from 15 to 120 degrees (the most popular TIR is 60 degrees). The latter, in turn, have a wide, uniform illumination, which is simply necessary in headlamps;
- Central spot/hotspot– concentrated/directed light flux, which has increased brightness compared to side illumination. Usually it is pronounced in long-range flashlights and looks like a centrally bright spot in the center, and on the sides there is barely visible side flare with artifacts. TIR lenses 45-120 degrees are completely devoid of hotspot;
- EDC flashlight (Everyday carry - carry every day, translation from English)– compact flashlights, in the Convoy line this is the S series;
- Runtime– lamp glow time
- Stock/stock version– parameters set by the manufacturer. In stock there is usually always the cheapest, bluish diode of the U2/U3 bin, but brighter.
- Brightness stabilization– regardless of the battery charge level – the output is always, say, 450lm. In this case, as a rule, the driver is down-up, i.e. While the battery is fresh, the driver works as a step-down driver. As soon as the battery is low, the driver starts working as a boost driver. Flashlights with such drivers are quite expensive.
- Stepdown– a sharp or smooth decrease in LED output power according to a certain algorithm, i.e. in simple words, reducing the output current to the diode. There is a temporary stepdown (reducing the current after 3-5 minutes), multistepdown (reducing the output power, say, after 5 minutes from 950 lm to 600 lm, and after a couple of minutes even, for example, to 450 lm), thermal stepdown (reducing the current depending on heating the lantern).
- Lanyard– a cord on the hand for a more secure hold. It is mainly needed in order not to lose the flashlight when shaking, or when working in hard-to-reach places, so as not to accidentally drop it, or so as not to reach into your pocket every time (shine it on the place of work -> let it go from your hands without turning it off, there will be less light, but still enough -> took the tool -> if necessary, tightened the flashlight). An indispensable thing when working without a forehead protector or at low heights, because... It is not always possible to fix the flashlight, and it is not very convenient to reach into your pocket for it every time.
I think these terms will be enough.

The Fenix RC20 flashlight itself:

Brief technical characteristics:
- Manufacturer - Fenix
- Model number – RC20
- Main light source – Cree XM-L2 U2 LED
- Color temperature – 6000-6500K (pleasant cool shade)
- Maximum luminous flux – 1000 lumens (in Turbo mode)
- Reflector – aluminum smooth/SMO
- Driver – pulse (brightness stabilization in each mode)
- Battery type – built-in 3.7V Li-Ion 18650 ARB-L1 2600mah (regular 18650 banks without “manual application” are not supported!)
- Built-in charging – yes, charging module in the docking station (dock, adapter with USB output and cable included)
- Charge/discharge indication – rough (LED)
- Lantern color – black
- Maximum range of luminous flux – 290 meters
- Material – aviation aluminum with HA-III coating (for military equipment)
- Waterproof - yes (IPx8 standard, protection against prolonged immersion in water to a depth of 2m)
- Modes – a total of 3 groups of 7 modes:
- - - main group – 4 modes (1000lm, 425lm, 150lm and 10lm)
- - - simplified group – 2 modes (1000lm and 150lm)
- - - special signal (hidden) – 1 mode (adaptive strobe)
- Mode memory – yes (non-volatile)
- Management:
- On/off – power button in the tail of the flashlight
- Switching modes using a clock button in the tail of the flashlight
- Dimensions – 161mm*40mm
- Weight - 152g/203g (without/with ARB-L1 2600mah battery)
- Warranty – 2 years

Briefly about IP standards (taken)

IPx8 moisture protection is declared, meaning that the flashlight can easily be immersed in water to a depth of 2 m (more than a meter) for a long time:

Water test (lantern at the bottom of a small bucket):

Light source:

A very interesting feature of the flashlight is a simplified group consisting of only two modes, very convenient:

Mode->brightness->glow time with Fenix ARB-L1 2600mah battery:

The main group of modes - 4 main glow modes:

- Maximum (425 lumens) – 2h 55 min (175 min)

- Low (10 lumens) – 120h

A simplified group of modes - 2 main glow modes:
- Turbo (1000 lumens) – 1 hour 10 minutes (70 minutes), total time taking into account thermal control
- Medium (150 lumens) – 9h 50 min (590 min)

Hidden mode group - 1 special signal, accessible from both the main and simplified groups, as well as from the off position:
- adaptive strobe (alternating “fast” and “slow” strobe)

In turbo mode there is a smooth thermal stepdown, i.e. reducing the output current to protect the LED from overheating when the flashlight temperature reaches 65°C.

General management information:

Nutrition:

Included charger:

For more details about the charger, see under the spoiler (opening and tests):

Additional accessories:

A lot of additional accessories are sold for the flashlight - diffusers, light filters, remote buttons, various mounts:

The kit includes only basic accessories: a lanyard and a case. The lanyard is the simplest, without a lock:

Together with the case:

Partial disassembly:

Thanks to the Fenix company policy, it is not possible to disassemble the flashlight while maintaining the appearance and declared characteristics, because Most threaded connections are tightly glued. Therefore, the flashlight can be disassembled into only two parts: the body (head and tube) and the tail:

Head with pronounced cooling fins:

For better heat transfer, quite deep cooling fins are machined on the head. Coupled with the massive head, the heat dissipation turned out to be good.
If disassembly is necessary, the head is pulled off in the place where the Fenix RC20 inscription is written. Also, in my opinion, a kind of wide bezel should be unscrewed, but it is also glued or locked from the inside of the head; I could not unscrew it with my hands (where the “HOT” inscription is). The current supply in the head is the same as in the tail:

The tube has a rectangular knurl for better holding of the flashlight:

The walls are thick – 2.2 mm, internal diameter – 20.9 mm:

The thread is trapezoidal, wide, about 5 turns, there will be no leaks even without O-rings :-). The thread is anodized and not at all greased, there is some squeaking when tightening/unscrewing:

On the other hand, there is no need to lubricate the threads, because the batteries here are specific, they cannot be charged in a third-party charger, but the included charger with a charge current of 0.9-1A should be enough for many. Therefore, there is no particular need to disassemble it.
Anodized thread is a very big plus, because... You don’t have to worry about the flashlight turning on spontaneously in your bag/pocket. You just need to unscrew the lid a little and the flashlight will not turn on spontaneously.

My “artisanal” beamshots:

Will be a little later

Comparison on the ground (forest road):

Will be a little later

So, let’s summarize the main features of the flashlight:

Conclusion: Overall a good flashlight, but too many limitations. I immediately remembered a comparison of smartphones running Android and iOS (Apple). This flashlight is somewhat reminiscent of an Apple device: the design is good, the workmanship is good, the features are there, and it’s easy to use, but you can’t customize it for yourself and the price is huge. There is no more “digging” into the filling, as they say, and it only supports everything that is your own, dear. Therefore, in my opinion, this model will not be widespread, but those who are alien to various body movements and the search for batteries and chargers will like this flashlight...

Tact button for flashlight. A good flashlight Fenix ​​RC20, completely devoid of customization capabilities. Android applications for working with the button

Read also

Appendix 1

Addendum 2

Update dated October 7, 2015

A little background

Meet - Click

Android applications for working with the button

Press It! Power Button Psre sy

Miclick (MiKey)

Click

Using the Click Button

A few words at the end

Tact button for flashlight. A good flashlight Fenix RC20, completely devoid of customization capabilities. Android applications for working with the button