DIY stool made from chipboard. Simple solutions: how to make a chair from chipboard with your own hands. How to make a simple rectangular stool

Anyone can make simple chairs from chipboard. The design of stools for the kitchen, utility room, and workshop is simple. There is no need to impress with a stunning design, or the complexity of connections, or the use of fragile materials. The result will be a decent, durable stool that looks no worse than its “brothers” from a furniture store.

Tools

There are many designs of chairs, but the basic set of tools remains the same. It is possible that something special will be required to make a particular model, and not everything from the list below will be used. In any case, a master who professes the “do it yourself” principle will find a list of the most popular tools for woodworking useful. It will allow you not to waste a lot of time looking for any “little things”.

You should have on hand:

• brush;
• drill;
• ruler;
• roulette;
• plane;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• pencil;
• screwdriver;
• drill 5 mm;
• hacksaw (saw);
• electric iron;
• furniture stapler;
• sharp shoe knife;
• wood glue (PVA glue);
• jigsaw (or regular jigsaw);
• clamps (clamping devices);
• grinding machine (sandpaper);
• mallet (wooden or rubber carpenter's hammer).

In addition to chipboard, the following consumables may be useful:

• furniture thrust bearings;
• edge processing tape;
• staples for furniture stapler;
• dowels or corners for the seat;
• foam rubber, as well as fabric or leatherette;
• confirmations and self-tapping screws of various sizes.

Making a stool

It is not necessary to use new pieces of chipboard to make a stool. You can use elements of old disassembled furniture.

In total, you will need 2 sheets of chipboard 40x30 cm, one each 30x30 and 20x12.

Procedure:

1. According to the drawing (Fig. 2.), the contours of all parts are applied to full-size blanks.

2. The side posts, jumper, and seat are cut out with a jigsaw at maximum speed - the resulting edges will be smooth and clean.

3. The corners are rounded with a sander.

4. The required holes are drilled.

5. Quickly apply finishing tape selected by color and width, smooth it with an iron and a piece of soft fabric, excess tape is cut off with a knife, the iron relay is at the average temperature value.

6. The stool is assembled (the seat is screwed to the side posts and the lintel; you will need corners and confirmations 6.4x50 mm).

7. If desired, the upholstery is installed (foam rubber is glued, the excess is cut off with a knife, then it is covered with leatherette or fabric 41x41 cm and attached to a furniture stapler).

8. Thrust bearings are installed to avoid damage to the flooring by the stool.

Possible modifications to the circuit

The dimensions of the stool are not static; everyone can change them themselves according to their needs. The main thing is that the upper part is not wider than the base, otherwise the structure will lose stability. You can develop your own creative stool, adding a backrest to it, you get a chair. Such furniture is simple and practical; it can be used not only for its intended purpose, but also as a stand, replacing a small staircase.

When assembling the stool, the plastic corners are attached with self-tapping screws at a distance of at least 3.5 cm from the edge of the stand. The distance from the lintel to the bottom must be the same on both sides, otherwise the structure will be uneven.

• If you don’t have a furniture stapler to fasten the upholstery fabric, the staples you drive in can be replaced with small nails.
• If old chipboard sheets are used, they are sealed with wood putty and covered with paint.
• When gluing the edges to the ends of the slabs, it is cut off 1 cm more at each end. The resulting excess edge is cut off with a shoe knife. The accuracy of the sticker is checked with a piece of fabric: when running it along the end, the material should not cling.

Do you want to speed up the work process? Make templates of all the parts from cardboard, attach them to the blanks and trace them with a pencil. It will take much less time, especially if several stools are made at once. The curve lines can be marked by hand, but it is better to use a compass or a round object of a suitable size.

When working with leatherette, remember:

1. Due to its high density, the material takes a long time to return to its original shape. To avoid dents on the seat and back of the chair, drill 4-5 holes on the back side for air penetration (you can drill both before and after assembly).
2. Leatherette leather at the corners can be given an aesthetic appearance by ironing it through a damp cloth. Once cooled, it will retain its given shape.
3. The material (like any fabric on the seat) should be folded by 3-4 cm. When attaching the seat to the frame at the corners, the folded fabric on both sides will be clamped by the upper ends of the legs, receiving additional fixation.

If you have the skill, you can trim the corners of the upholstery fabric and sew it on a sewing machine. The result is something like a full-fledged furniture cover.

Making an ottoman

An ottoman (also known as a pouf) is a soft chair. Anyone can make the simplest of scraps of laminated chipboard themselves. The top cover (seat) in the proposed version is fastened to a piano hinge.

One of the sides is 2 mm shorter so that the installation location of the piano hinge does not stand out as a protrusion. The parts are assembled according to the sketch, one after the other, one by one, into a square. The bottom of the structure is secured to the dowels between them.

The seat of the pouf will be made like the top of a stool. The principle and technology are the same, only the width of the folding of the fabric should not exceed 2 cm. Such a small swing will allow you to easily screw the piano hinge to the base of the seat.

From the accessories you will need 8 confirmations with plugs, 4 nail supports, a 20 cm piano loop, 12 self-tapping screws 3.5x16, 4 dowels of 8 mm each. If you have the desire and time, you can turn the ottoman into an original design solution by slightly modifying the project. The cost of producing an ottoman is low, the biggest expense will be on the fabric (if you cover the whole thing), foam rubber with a thickness of 10-20 mm is inexpensive.

The simplest design

The best way to figure out how to make chairs from chipboard with your own hands is to use the example of a simple stool, which even a child can build in a quarter of an hour under the supervision of an adult. You will need 4 pieces of chipboard, 2 for the legs (200x250 mm), one for the seat (250x300 mm), one for the spacer (90x200 mm).

The process itself is traditional: gluing the workpieces with an edge (quickly, in a few seconds, but carefully so as not to get burned), rubbing the adhesive base with a piece of fabric, passing sandpaper along the ends. Then the first leg is screwed 2 confirmats to the crossbar, after which the second leg is screwed.

5 secret holes are drilled in the bottom of the lid, into which dowels are driven with glue. 5 holes are marked in the base, filled with glue, both parts are connected into a whole, the heads of the confirmations are sealed with circles to match the color of the chipboard, furniture thrust bearings are nailed. The process itself will take a little time, but you need to wait a few hours for the glue to dry.

When purchasing furniture, you can notice a clear discrepancy between the prices of materials for their manufacture and the final price of the product. This is especially noticeable when purchasing fairly simple pieces of furniture, such as stools.

Stools are most often made from chipboard.

Stools are most often made from chipboard. It is a fairly cheap material, easy to work with, durable and perfect for indoor use. Taking one look at a chipboard stool, it’s easy to understand that making one with your own hands is quite easy. We invite you to familiarize yourself with detailed instructions for making various configurations of stools at home.

Taking one look at a chipboard stool, it’s easy to understand that making one with your own hands is quite easy.

You can make a stool with your own hands, having professional and non-professional elements and devices at hand.

Required tools include:

1. electric jigsaw, complete with a fine file;
2. screwdriver

To decorate the seat of the stool, you can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery materials.

You may also need a drill with a drill and a stapler for construction purposes.

The upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.

To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts together and then secure them with self-tapping screws.

Materials for production:

1. chipboard sheets, new, substandard or remaining spare parts from old furniture;
2. self-tapping screws, no longer than the thickness of the chipboard;
3. confirmations 4 pieces. Dimensions 6.4 mm by 50 mm;
4. metal corners 4 pieces;
5. adhesive tape for processing sheet edges;
6. thrust bearings made of any acceptable materials;
7. sandpaper for sanding.

Creating a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models.

Non-professional tools that can be found in any home:

1. pencil or marker;
2. cardboard for making templates;
3. ruler or tape measure;
4. knife of any configuration, most importantly sharp.

The seemingly simple design of a stool has several dozen different models.

The parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws.

To decorate the seat of the stool, you can also prepare foam rubber and upholstery materials. The upholstery can be fabric, oilcloth, leatherette.

You can look at visual examples in furniture stores, from neighbors or on the Internet.

Create a project

Creating a stool from chipboard with your own hands allows the master not to limit himself to standard models. The seemingly simple design of a stool has several dozen different models. You can look at visual examples in furniture stores, from neighbors or on the Internet.

Usually several stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical objects according to the chosen drawing.

When starting the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-treat all cut edges with a special tape.

Usually several stools are needed at once, so it is extremely important to choose one shape you like and make identical objects according to the chosen drawing. When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of a stool requires a strict balance between its lower and upper parts. A discrepancy between the dimensions of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable and therefore dangerous.

When making a drawing, it is important to remember that the design of a stool requires a strict balance between its lower and upper parts.

Choosing material for manufacturing

Stools can be made from different materials. Chipboard, multi-layer plywood, wooden blocks and boards are suitable. The cheapest and easiest to use material is chipboard. Sheets can be purchased in a store, at furniture factories, or you can buy scraps from small companies that make custom-made furniture. Sheets of old chipboard that were previously parts of other furniture are also suitable.

A discrepancy between the dimensions of the seat and the width of the legs can lead to an imbalance, as a result of which the object will be very unstable and therefore dangerous.

The final step in preparation before assembly will be drilling the necessary holes.

We apply graphic markings

Stools can be made from different materials.

Having decided on the model of the future stool, you need to mark a sheet of chipboard, thereby preparing it for further work. If you plan to make several identical stools, then it is better to make a pattern for all parts of the furniture. It is convenient to make the template from thick cardboard.

For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded. It is better to make even curves using a compass. The absence of this item can be compensated for, for example, with a plate of suitable diameter.

The cheapest and easiest to use material is chipboard.

High speed will ensure cutting of sheets without chips or nicks.
After trimming, you need to sand all the edges of the stool with sandpaper.

Depending on the selected shape and model, the dimensions of the elements may be as follows.

No. Stool model Seat dimensions Leg dimensions Crossbar dimensions

• 1 30x30 30x40 20x12
• 2 30x40 30x40 30x15
• (3 pieces)
• 3 40x40 20x35 (8 pieces) 30x20
• (4 pieces)

Sheets of old chipboard that were previously parts of other furniture are also suitable.

Cutting out elements for the future stool

The main thing is to decide in advance on the number of finished products and calculate the required volumes of materials.

Cutting out elements from existing pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw.

Cutting out elements from existing pieces of chipboard is done using an electric jigsaw. You can make a good edge cut using a fine file and high speed jigsaw. High speed will ensure cutting of sheets without chips or nicks.

After trimming, you need to sand all the edges of the stool with sandpaper. This processing will ensure a good fit of one part to another and simplify assembly.

The final step in preparation before assembly will be drilling the necessary holes. Make sure the holes are drilled at the same level.

Having decided on the model of the future stool, you need to mark a sheet of chipboard, thereby preparing it for further work.

Assembling the stool

When starting the final assembly of parts, it is necessary to pre-treat all cut edges with a special tape. The tape must be chosen to match the color of the sheet or, conversely, contrasting shades.

The tape is applied to the cut of the legs and seat and glued with a hot iron. The iron must be applied with quick and short movements. The warm tape should be pressed down with a clean cloth. The glue, which is on the back of the tape, sets very quickly and does not require long heating or cooling.

The parts of the stool are assembled using confirmations and self-tapping screws. To simplify the assembly task, you can first glue the parts together and then secure them with self-tapping screws.

The seat of the resulting chair can be made soft using foam rubber and upholstery material.

For further ease of use of the manufactured furniture, the corners of the parts should be rounded.

It is better to make even curves using a compass.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself stools made from chipboard scraps.

50 photo ideas on how to make a stool with your own hands from chipboard

When making stools, modern manufacturers most often use laminated chipboard. This material has high performance characteristics and an affordable price. In the First Furniture online store you can buy a stool made of chipboard on favorable terms in Moscow.

Our catalog contains stools of different colors, materials and sizes. When purchasing, pay attention to the following important features:

• maximum load - make sure that the model you like is designed for the weight of the heaviest person in your household;
• seat - hard is more practical and easier to clean, soft is more comfortable;
• legs - the catalog contains versions with wooden and metal legs.

"First Furniture" offers to buy a stool made of chipboard at the manufacturer's price. We deliver goods throughout Moscow and other cities directly from furniture factories. We guarantee our customers not only favorable prices, but also convenient shopping conditions: assistance in choosing, various payment methods, the possibility of returns and exchanges. Delivery is carried out throughout Moscow and throughout Russia.

To buy suitable stools, leave a request on the website.

“Can you put together a box? Yes? Okay, you’ll make stools for now.” This is from a conversation with a new job seeker in a small furniture company. Indeed, making a simple stool with your own hands is no more difficult than making a box. That one may be more difficult if it is retractable in a nightstand. Therefore, for those interested in carpentry, it is better to master it by starting with a stool. You won’t save a lot of money on this, stools are inexpensive. But the acquired skills will allow you to start working on large cabinet furniture, which will give you significant savings, plus unique items in the interior.

A stool as a starting object in the furniture business has another advantage: it requires little planing and sawing work with the inevitable debris, you can test your carpentry abilities on the balcony or even in the kitchen. Having made sure that things are going well, we will think about a carpentry workshop with a workbench and other things; Without it, you won’t be able to make the furniture more impressive.

The device and something about the terms

A classic kitchen stool made of wood is constructed as shown in Fig. It also shows that its design is a little complicated for a beginner, but we will get to it through simpler samples, but no worse. In this case, the picture is needed for something else.

The reader may think that calling the support beam a drawer, and the ties/spacers with legs is a purely furniture-specific feature, sort of like a sailor’s bench is a bank. As for the kings, this is not so. Drawbars can also be found in other branches of technology, and there they are by no means beams, either in appearance or in the nature of the load.

In fact, the drawer is a structural element that distributes multidirectional loads across the components of the power circuit. When distributing the load, it is impossible not to experience it, therefore it is structurally, technologically and economically justified to make the drawers also load-bearing, i.e. make them work.

In furniture production, the frame is most often combined with a support beam in the form of a board or beam placed on the edge. This idea is so ingrained that some experienced carpenters consider any such board to be a tsarga. However, drawers in furniture are very diverse.

For example, at pos. 1 pic. (underneath a stool with legs in sockets) the drawers are still quite drawer-bearing beams, only made of timber. But already at pos. 2 kings are scarves, and their frame does not hold anything and is only decorative; on pos. 3 tsar-kerchiefs can do without it. And at pos. 4 (dressing table) drawer - a jib, which is a beam no more than a gusset.

Table with removable legs, pos. 4, the case is generally interesting. When it is disassembled, the drawer will be a shaped steel brace, because only in this case it keeps the boards of the underframe from breaking out of the tabletop when pushed, or simply from falling apart if the tabletop is also removed. But when the legs are in place, their heads are pressed into the corners and the table is standing, the boards of the underframe will become both beams and frames, because support both vertical and lateral loads. In this case, it is even legitimate to talk about attaching the legs to the drawers (!), because the product acquires proper strength and rigidity only when the mounting units of the legs are assembled and loaded.

Drawers made from boards can also be vertical posts rather than beams. In this case, they are called combat drawers, pos. 6. In general, with frames you need to do the same as with beams: first of all, look at how they work in the structure, but how they look is the second to fifth question. It was necessary to immediately be distracted by the tsargi, because... in furniture they are found all the time.

What do we do?

To make a stool, let's see what you can do. Not everything, there is an endless variety of stools, but for starters, typical examples. Our task is to choose what is simpler and better for a specific purpose.

The classic kitchen stool can be both utilitarian and very artistic, pos. 1 and 2 in Fig. Its design has evolved over centuries and such stools serve for many decades. The strength of the structure allows the stool to be used as a work table, everyone knows this. You can start working on a classic stool from the very beginning, having learned a few woodworking techniques, see below.

In lightweight stools, pos. 3-8, the legs are attached either without drawers at all, in sockets in a thick, durable seat, or in sockets in kerchief drawers. In the first case, both the seat and the legs have to be thickened, so such stools are inferior to others in strength, and often in appearance and position. 3.

To make a lightweight stool strong, its legs are tied with tie rods: the lower, the stronger and the thinner the tie bars can be, pos. 4 and 5. But the low frame made of ties interferes with the legs of the person sitting, and cutting into the thin legs of the stool weakens them. Therefore, instead of a simple frame, they often make an H-shaped one, pos. 6, or place ties at different levels, pos. 7.

The greatest strength and convenience is provided by the X-shaped tie system (tie cross), pos. 8. With a certain configuration of the legs, it is possible to do without the lower cross; One example of this kind will be discussed below.

Important subtleties

If you ever decide to make a lightweight stool, keep in mind, firstly, that its legs should be slightly apart, i.e. the axes passing through the centers of the heads and heels of the legs should deviate from the vertical by 7-12 degrees outward relative to the axis of symmetry of the stool. The second option is that the legs should be arched and expand upward, see below. Without one or the other, the legs may break even when slightly rocking on a stool. Moreover, both solutions are valid if the stool is symmetrical about the vertical axis, i.e. not extended in plan. An exception, up to a proportion of 1:1.5, is a stool with ties at different levels; it can be pulled out in the direction of the lower ties.

Second, in order to cut the heels and heads of the legs to the required angle, their blanks need to be collected in a tightly tightened bag and cut in 1 pass. Otherwise, the stool will remain an oblique spread: the vertical legs can then be adjusted to the length along the length, but the accuracy of the angles required for processing the legs one by one is simply impossible to achieve on wood. The angles will already be half a degree or a degree away from the drawing, but this is not so important, as long as all the legs are the same.

Stools-cabinets, pos. 9 and 10, are heavy and material-intensive, but very durable, because consist, from a mechanical point of view, of 3 sides located in mutually perpendicular planes. These same stools are easy to make, and it’s better to start mastering furniture making with them. In such a case - in Fig. drawings of 2 types. At pos. on the right, the details of the cabinet also cut into half the tree, see below; The groove for insertion is not shown. The seat in both cases can be of any centrally symmetrical shape; they place it on dowels, see below. The covers on round pedestal stools make them look indistinguishable from more labor-intensive poufs if you make an upholstered seat, as described below.

Note: in the inset at the bottom left of Fig. variant of a stool-cabinet for a summer residence. It requires 4 parts, but it does not get bogged down in loose soil.

Box-shaped or panel stools (items 11 and 12) require 4 parts, but are lighter and less disturbing to the legs. Making them is no more difficult than the previous ones, and all connections are dowel, which makes the work somewhat easier. Box stools can be extended in length until they become benches, and their strength and stability depend very little on height. The well-known utility stool (item 12) is from this breed. In general, stools made from panels are also a rewarding object for a beginning carpenter, so we provide drawings for them of several types: a normal room height, on the right in the figure, a lower utility height, on the left in the same place, and below - the construction of a very small children’s stool.

Note: in Fig. on the right is a diagram of a reinforced box-shaped stool. Pos. c) there is a way to make it look more attractive by veneering the sides. This stool is well suited for a dacha: it is simple, light, inexpensive, looks good, and is not inferior to the classic one in terms of durability and convenience.

Stools for pos. 13 and 14 only look like box-shaped ones, but in fact they each have 4 wide and flat legs. Therefore, such stools must be made with drawers made of boards or beams, and the legs must be fastened with a leg. True, in this case there is only one and can be located so that it does not interfere with the legs at all.

The next variety available for beginners to make on their own is step stools with X-shaped legs. To give them the required strength, they require either 2 drawers and 2 legs, located mutually perpendicular, pos. 15, or 4 drawer-beams forming the upper frame, and 1 tie between the crosses of the legs. The latter option can be fit into the interior of a living room or bedroom, but most of all the spreaders are made folding. If you suddenly become interested, see Fig. folding country stool, drawings and folding method. You can assemble a country house set from these and a garden folding table. In general, there are many designs of folding stools for different purposes, from a fishing stand to furniture for picnics, and some of them are easy to make with your own hands.

Note: All the described stools are quite plastic and tolerant of the configuration of parts, so their creative executions in different styles and poses are possible. 17-20.

Materials, tools, technology

What to make it from?

The wood is suitable for making any stool. In terms of strength and durability, a wooden stool is second only to a forged metal one, and in terms of convenience and functionality it has no equal among its peers. Any quality wood will be suitable for a stool, except for very soft and easily rotting species: poplar, willow, aspen, alder.

The quality of wood for any furniture is determined, firstly, by the absence of visible defects: cracks, falling knots, chips, wormholes, traces of rot and mold in the form of spots of a color unusual for this species, see fig. Secondly, the wood for furniture must be room-dry, with a humidity of 8-12%. Kiln-dried wood (humidity up to 8%) is of limited use for furniture, because during the drying process, its structure may be damaged and furniture made from it in the room may shrink or crack over time.

Note: cross-grained and twisted wood for furniture in handicraft production is in many cases acceptable, and sometimes desirable, because allow you to get a beautiful texture. The famous Karelian birch is nothing more than an ordinary warty birch, completely curled due to unfavorable growing conditions.

The wood is air-dry, with 12-20% humidity (this is ordinary timber) must be kept in a dry room at a temperature of 15-30 degrees for 1-6 weeks, stacked on stands that do not dampen. The initial plots (boards, beams) are placed on supports at intervals, and the next belt (layer) of the stack is also placed on supports; Now you can use the same plots as them, laying a pair across.

Note: It is impossible to dry the wood under the influence of heating devices or incandescent lamps - we will get very poor chamber wood.

They usually use pine or spruce for the seat of the stool, and harder wood for the legs: birch, oak, maple, beech. Of course, the entire stool can be made from hardwood. Of the fairly accessible imported breeds, wenge, hemlock, and mahogany are suitable.

A complete replacement for wild wood will be modified wood - medium and high density MDF. MDF is not impregnated with anything; it is made from industrial wood sawing waste pressed at elevated temperatures, i.e. The material is completely environmentally friendly. MDF is inferior to wild wood in terms of abrasion resistance, so it is advisable to fill the heels of MDF legs with solid wood soles.

From plywood you can make pedestal and box-shaped stools, as well as covered stools with an X-shaped tie of legs (item 8 in the figure at the beginning) and similar ones in the power scheme. Also, plywood will fit on the seat of any stool. As a rule, only box-shaped stools are made entirely from chipboard, because... in the designs of all the others there are points of concentrated loads, which chipboard does not support. But chipboard will also work well on the seat.

Note: It is highly advisable to impregnate plywood for furniture with a water-polymer emulsion on both sides and on the end.

About the glue

Most furniture joints are glued. Traditionally, bone wood glue is used for this. It is inexpensive, does not require touch-drying before joining parts, and gains strength as soon as it hardens. But to prepare it you need a glue maker, which, however, you can make yourself.

Liquid nails wood glue is very strong. It also makes it possible to hide glue seams, because... it is tinted to look like wood with sawdust, or you can buy a ready-made tinted one. Even better is water-based acrylic wood glue.

Liquid nails and acrylic are quite expensive, so in many cases they are replaced with almost equally durable PVA, but not the usual office grade for paper, but for wood. The corresponding marking must be looked at on the label, and wood PVA is sold not in office supplies, but in construction and hardware stores. It is necessary to glue parts on PVA only after exposure to tack; glue is applied to both parts to be joined. Allow for at least a day to gain strength, only then can you continue working or load the connection.

Note: All adhesive joints do not hold seam shear well, i.e. they need to be reinforced in this direction in various ways; about some, see below.

What to do?

We will assume that since you are a craftsman, you have simple measuring, marking and working tools, including chisels and chisels. It is also advisable to have a caliper with a depth gauge. But in order to start making stools and furniture in general, you need to stock up on a couple more devices first.

Firstly, a surface gauge (reismus) for marking, see fig. You can do it yourself by using a couple of screws instead of a lever lock. If you wish, you can use a homemade surface planer; amateurs do it.

Secondly, wooden panels for furniture are not assembled just like that; they will come out hunchbacked and cracked. Shields need to be united, i.e. When assembling, do not glue the boards, press them tightly against each other with their edges until the glue dries completely and gains strength. See below how the shields are held together, but for now you need to make devices for this: plazas or weims. The basis in both cases is strong, even and seasoned boards of at least 150x50 for plaza and 120x50 for vaym.

A very convenient plaza made from a screw clamp and a stop with a dead center, pos. 1 in Fig. If there are no components for it, then the simplest plaz, pos. 2. The boards in it are compressed with wedges, pos. 2a, alternately beating with a mallet, and roughly matching the size of the shield, place a spacer from the same board as the base of the plaza.

Large shields, approximately longer than 50 cm, cannot be rallied on the plaza, because its base itself bends. In addition, the extension of the edges of the boards beyond the plaza should not exceed 150 mm, i.e. on a plaza from 250 mm boards you can assemble a shield up to the same 50 cm wide. This is enough for a stool, but for the future it is better to get 3-4 wires, pos. 3. The fastening of the end stop bosses in all cases must be very strong, using M8-M12 through bolts with nuts, because Very large forces act on the work stops.

How to do?

To make a stool, you first need to master several types of connections of wooden parts:

• Insert into half a tree (half a tree).
• Tongue and tongue connection.
• Tongue-groove connection.

Half a Tree

Half-tree connection shown in Fig. Technologically, it is the simplest and quite reliable if it is additionally fastened, 2-3 points per connection, with dowels, self-tapping screws, bolts, nails and, optionally, glued. When working with a hand tool, the recesses are first sawed along the edges, not reaching 0.5-1 mm to the desired depth, and the excess material is removed with a chisel. Making cuts deeper in order to knock off the excess with one blow is a manufacturing defect!

Half-tree connections are closed, pos. 1, this is how the crosspieces are assembled, open, pos. 2, for assembling corners, and blind (closed) halfway, pos. 3, for insertion on the run. In addition, half a tree can be connected either side by side, pos. 1-3, and along the edge, pos. 4. In the latter case, if the parts are high enough, the connection holds well and only with glue without additional reinforcements; This is how the supports of stools/pedestals are assembled.

Tongue and tongue and groove

For tongue-and-groove joints, pos. 1-3 in the figure, the 1st point of additional fastening or just gluing is enough. The tongue-groove connection can be single open, pos. 1, open double, pos. 2, triple, etc., or closed, pos. 3. The latter can be separated only by pulling the part with the ridge, and open tongue-and-groove joints can also be done by rotating the parts relative to each other, i.e. a closed tongue-and-groove ridge is technologically more complex (the hole must be drilled along the edges with a drilling depth limiter and then carefully hollowed out), but stronger and more reliable.

Mortise-tongue and tongue-and-groove connections are mechanically similar, so they are often confused. For example, connections to pos. 1 and 2 in old Soviet textbooks for vocational schools are called tongue and groove. But in fact, the shoulder of the tenon, unlike the shoulder of the comb, goes around the tenon on all sides, pos. 4. This makes it possible to hide the semicircular edges of the hole selected by the end mill, and makes the connection resistant to breakout in 2 planes, along and across.

The tenon, like the closed tongue-and-groove, can be wedged when assembled with a wedge made of hard wood, also pos. 4. The connection becomes permanent, but very strong and no visible additional fastenings are required; glue will last forever. The connection on a wedged tenon is generally “dead”; it is easier to break the entire product into pieces than to separate it.

Note: There are many types of tenon joints used in furniture; For example, a small part of them is shown in Fig. on right. We will get acquainted with the necessary ones along the way when describing the corresponding types of furniture.

Dowels

The dowel connection is the most important thing in carpentry, because... it is quite strong and invisible, i.e. completely closed. Actually, a dowel is a round or octagonal tenon made of hard wood, made separately from the parts being connected. How the connection is made with dowels is shown in the figure; for marking, you can’t do without a surface planer.

The dowels can be wedged during assembly, see fig. on the right, then they are called dowels; The wedges must be placed across the grain of the wood of the parts being joined. The dowel connection is permanent, but very strong and reliable. The connections on the dowels are usually glued.

The attentive reader probably already has a question: where can I get them, these dowels? Random twigs and slivers will not be reliable. It’s true that dowel sticks are available for sale, but you can also make them yourself. In general, the main dowel connection in furniture has a lot of other subtleties, so we give a selection of videos:

Video: dowel connection

Video: making round sticks for dowels and arrows

Video: a device for making dowels with your own hands

Video: homemade jig for drilling holes for dowels

Rally

Boards are assembled into furniture panels in different ways. On a tongue and groove connection (a type of tongue-and-groove connection), pos. 1 in Fig., it is easiest to consolidate if you use tongue-and-groove boards. Due to the large contact area of ​​the surfaces being connected, glued tongue and groove is very reliable and is often used. However, only boards of sufficient thickness can be tongue-tied, because the tongue crest should, on the one hand, be no wider than 1/4-1/3 of the thickness of the board, and on the other hand, it should not be narrower than 10-12 mm. It is believed that the minimum thickness of wild wood boards for joining onto tongue and groove is 30 mm, but it is not recommended to join boards less than 40 mm onto tongue and groove; The dimensions of the tongue for a forty board are shown in Fig. higher. MDF and laminate panels can be tongue-and-groove with board thicknesses of 16 mm or more.

Joining in rebate, pos. 2, secure only if the fold has a lock. A lockless rebate is just a quarter, and a board made of quarter boards will not be reliable, just like a board assembled into a batten, i.e. just the ends of edged boards. It is difficult to make a locking rebate at home, so they, like the locking tongue and groove, are used to join panels made of MDF or laminate, see fig. on right. In this case, the thickness of the boards can be from 12 mm.

Rallying on dowels, pos. 3, perhaps solid wood boards from 20 mm and MDF/laminate from 12 mm, but it is labor-intensive and difficult. It is best to join thin boards using a smooth reveal, pos. 4. The grooves for the fugue will have to be selected using a manual wood router with a disk cutter, but the fugue itself can be made from plywood from 3 mm, which makes it possible to join together “wild” boards from 12 mm.

About the seat

Sitting on a hard stool for a long time is uncomfortable, so something softer will do just fine. How the soft seat of the stool is arranged is shown in pos. 1 pic. You should immediately note that it is better to make the external upholstery from burlap, and sew capes for the stools from decorative furniture fabric. The stool is used intensively, often carelessly, and expensive jacquard, etc. It will soon get oily. And the cape can be washed, and sewing it is much easier than a cover for a chair or armchair.

The inner lining is installed on glue with a wing turn of 60 mm, pos. 2. Glue is applied only to the base and the wings are applied, drying it until it sticks. Foam rubber is chosen “by snap”: compressed to the limit with your fingers and suddenly released, it should straighten sharply, and not pull up smoothly.

The outer skin is also installed with glue, with the inner wings overlapping by at least 30-40 mm. To prevent it from creeping, its edges are tied lengthwise and crosswise with harsh threads, and the threads are sealed with thick paper, thin cardboard or just tape, so as not to accidentally break. Upholstery nails, if necessary, are imitated with push pins, pos. 3. The seat is attached to the base when it is completely ready.

The wicker seat pos. does not irritate the “fifth point” at all. 4, but it requires a reliable frame, like a classic stool. Lightweight stools and stools without a tightly attached seat are not strong enough. Modifying cabinets and box stools by replacing the top board with a frame is not worth it for the same reason.

Note: the dimensions of ordinary, not for a bar, stools are 420-450 mm in height; the seat is from 350x350 to 400x400 mm square and with a diameter of 300-450 mm round.

Examples and samples

The most reliable and functional, as we see, is still the classic stool; No wonder she became one of the classics. Therefore, we also provide its drawings, see Fig. Pos. A – general view and structure; B – method of fastening the seat; B – detailing; D – diagram of the seat joining on the dowels; D – base assembly; E – checking for evenness by measuring pairs.

However, established canons do not exclude evolution up to revolutionary changes. Revolutions are generally not necessary for society because they are ruinous, but in technology they are almost always fruitful. An example is a lightweight stool for the kitchen based on a classic one, see next. rice. The use of plywood (top frame), laminate for the seat and, most importantly, the extension of the drawers outside the load-bearing belt, gave rise to a very simple, light, cheap and convenient design - there are no protrusions. And in terms of strength, it will not be inferior to the classics, but you can’t make a wicker seat.

And finally, a version of the base of a lightweight stool without legs. See fig. for assembly method. Material – wood or plywood. The seat can be anything. Thanks to the correctly chosen configuration of the legs, the stool is quite reliable, and in appearance, especially with a soft seat, it will fit into any living room.

Finally

Making furniture with your own hands is not only economical, but also exciting. And therefore - good luck! From a simple stool to a wardrobe or bed that will make the seasoned designer gasp in admiration.

In this article we will talk about how to make a stool from chipboard with your own hands. Anyone who knows how to use a jigsaw, screwdriver and stapler can do this. The design of the stool is very simple, the material for it costs very little. In addition, you can even use scraps and leftovers from old furniture as material. A stool made by yourself can be installed in the kitchen, utility room, or garage. It all depends on where it is needed most. Your task is to make a high-quality piece of furniture that will be attractive.

Let's talk about finished products

Walk around the stores and see what they offer to customers. The assortment is very large, the designs of stools are varied - for every taste and color. Some have soft seats, others have hard ones. Some are made of metal, others are made of chipboard, plywood, and wood. Some types are sold separately, while others come complete with furniture corners. The shapes of the stools are also different - from simple rectangular to complex figured ones.

A huge number of colors - you can choose furniture for any interior. Poufs can be found for use in hallways. These are chipboard boxes with a soft seat. You can put some things inside. But all the pieces of furniture that you find in the store have one drawback - the cost. It is too high, so not everyone can afford such a purchase. But there is a lot of cheap and accessible material. The design of the stools is simple; making it with your own hands is very easy.

How to do it yourself?

In order to make a stool from chipboard yourself, you do not need to enroll in a carpenter or furniture maker course. It is enough to be able to use measuring instruments and tools. Next, we will look at all the tools that you will need during the work process.

As for the material, you can use, for example, doors from old unnecessary cabinets. You can cut out any shapes, but it’s best to start with simple ones to get the hang of it. Then you can move on to more complex ones.

Choosing chipboard

First you need to prepare the tools and materials so that you don’t frantically search for some screw or piece of wood later. You should choose in advance the design of the stool, its shape, color, and decide whether the seat will be soft. It is advisable to draw a drawing or at least a sketch in which to indicate all the dimensions of the product.

It is recommended to use chipboard for manufacturing, but it is better to give preference to the more expensive option - laminated chipboard. The first material has one advantage - it can be processed as you wish. But laminated chipboard is the same material, only covered with a film of paper and resin (laminate). In order to make such a film, paper with a certain color, texture, and sometimes ornament is used. Melamine resin is used to make the paper tougher.

Advantages of laminated chipboard

But you can make your own stool from chipboard or laminated chipboard. The laminated chipboard sheet has the following advantages:

1. Complete protection from moisture.
2. The material can be washed if necessary.
3. A huge selection of textures, colors, you can even find imitation of natural wood.
4. High service life of the material.

What tools will you need?

From materials you need to get sheets of chipboard or laminated chipboard, as mentioned earlier.

But you can even make stools from plywood. It is only advisable to use durable material so that it can withstand the load. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

1. Electric or simple jigsaw. The first is preferable, as it is much more convenient and faster for them to work.
2. Screwdriver or drill.
3. Drill.
4. Self-tapping screws or euroscrews.
5. PVA glue or liquid nails.
6. Sandpaper.

This is a must-have toolkit. If you want to make a soft seat, you will also have to stock up on upholstery material, padding polyester or foam rubber. Usually fabric or leatherette is used for upholstery.

If you decide to use fabrics, it is best to choose thick ones, as they are less susceptible to wiping. Be sure to also buy a special finishing tape, which will need to be glued to the edge of the finished stool. The choice of tape depends on the color and thickness of the chipboard. You can install plastic attachments at the bottom to prevent damage to the material.

Which scheme should I use?

The design is simple, and almost anyone can repeat it. The main elements of any stool:

1. Side racks.
2. Jumpers.
3. Seat.

Differences in the schemes are only in the sizes, shapes of the seat and side posts.

Seats are most often made round or square. But the jumpers and side posts can have any shape, it all depends on your imagination. The simplest design is rectangular jumpers and racks. Making a stool from chipboard with your own hands using this scheme is much easier; fitting all the elements will not be difficult.

We use scraps and new sheets

In order to make a stool for your kitchen, it is not necessary to buy new sheets of chipboard. You can use scraps or borrow elements of old furniture (unnecessary, of course). First, transfer the dimensions of all parts onto chipboard sheets. All lines should be clearly visible so that it will be convenient to cut blanks along them later.

If you are using an electric jigsaw, it is best to choose a bit with small teeth. The speed should be maximum. After cutting, all edges must be cleaned with sandpaper. Burrs and chips are not allowed.

The jumper is attached to the racks using self-tapping screws - this is the easiest way. But you can use a tongue-and-groove connection. At the same time, you make grooves in the racks using a drill. The groove is aligned with a file so that the tenon fits as tightly as possible. But it is not necessary to use this type of connection; it is enough to fix it with self-tapping screws or Euroscrews. Carefully study the design features and photos of chipboard stools. You can make any design with your own hands, but it’s best to start with the simplest ones.

Mark the places and make guide holes in them. Then you connect all the elements. To improve the appearance of the stool, it is recommended to use countersunk drills. But if this is not available, then it is allowed to use a simple one corresponding to the diameter of the cap. In order to cover the screws, install plugs.

Final assembly

Please note that all holes must be made at right angles and strictly in the center. Particular attention should be paid to the fastening of the side posts. If they are poorly secured, then soon the entire structure will become loose and break.

In order to glue the edge, you need to perform the following manipulations:

1. Apply the tape to the chipboard with the side on which the adhesive is applied.
2. Iron with a hot iron - this will melt the glue.
3. Press the tape onto the surface of the chipboard using a clean rag.

The glue hardens for about a minute. Lastly, stuff the soft material. The upholstery fabric must be attached to the chipboard using a construction gun. But if this is not the case, you can use a stapler. Photos of chipboard stools are presented in our article, as well as design drawings. You can choose the option that suits you best.