DIY welding machine for PVC windows. Do-it-yourself assembly of modern plastic windows. Materials for plastic windows

Welding PVC profiles is one of the main operations in the production process of PVC windows. The quality of the welding process ensures the operational properties of the finished window, its aesthetic appearance and technical

Welding PVC profiles for windows is one of the main operations in the production process of PVC windows. The quality of the welding process ensures the operational properties of the finished window, its aesthetic appearance and technical characteristics.

In the window block, frame and sash profiles are welded at the corners. The profiles must fit snugly to the tsulagas, which completely repeat the profile configuration. The clamping pressure must be such as to exclude the possibility of their displacement and deformation during welding. Distortion of the plates is not allowed. To ensure high quality of the seam, and therefore its durability, it is necessary to withstand the welding conditions determined by the manufacturer of the given PVC profile.

Welding machines

Welding machines are distinguished by the number of welded heads. The most popular welding machines are considered to be one-, two-, and four-headed. Multi-head in-line welding machines are used for simultaneous welding of contours and welding of imposts in one working cycle. This technology is not popular in the manufacture of PVC windows in our country.
On a single-head machine, welding of one window contour is carried out in four cycles; on a two-head welding machine, two cycles are required; on a four-head machine, welding of all four corners occurs in one cycle in automatic mode. The most productive is a machine with four welding heads.

Single Head Welding Machine

A single-head welding machine has the ability to weld profiles at a non-standard angle, that is, not at 90 degrees. The same possibility is provided on some double-head welding machines where one of the welding heads has a similar mechanism. The four-head welding machine is designed for welding standard angles and is used for large volumes of production of standard PVC windows.

Four head welding

There are two types of four-head machines - vertical and horizontal. Vertical welding machines are more compact, but do not have the ability to be integrated into automatic welding and stripping lines. Such lines use horizontal four-head welding machines. These lines occupy large areas in PVC window production, have greater productivity and require less labor involved.

Welding process

The process of welding PVC profiles in window production requires strict adherence to the prescribed standards of welding technology, namely: heating of the welded surfaces of the PVC profile, duration of melting of the surfaces, welding temperature, sufficient cooling time of the welded profiles. It is also necessary to keep the working area clean, promptly clean the melting elements of the machine and the PVC profile itself for correct and reliable welding of the profile. The technical conditions for welding PVC profiles require strict adherence to the rules for quality control of the welded window contour, since the further strength of the finished product, that is, the PVC window, its operational longevity and safety depend on the quality of the weld.

During the welding process, it is necessary to strictly maintain the necessary welding conditions:
The temperature of the welding knife is 230 - 250 °C.
The surface of the knife must be clean.
The Teflon coating of the knife is wiped with clean cotton or a paper towel every hour, “hot”, without using solvents.
Seam heating time is 25 - 40 seconds.
Seam welding time - 25 - 40 seconds.

Before installing a PVC profile on a welding machine, you must make sure that the surfaces being welded are clean, since grease, dust, and PVC profile or metal shavings sharply deteriorate the quality of corner welding. After completing the welding process, visual quality control of the welded seam of the metal-plastic window is carried out:
the seam must be white (darkening is not acceptable, as it indicates that the heating temperature of the welding knife was too high or the heating time was too high).
the seam should be uniform along its entire length.

The workpieces must be welded over the entire area of ​​the surface to be welded. Monitoring the compliance of the overall dimensions of products according to the order form. The Teflon film is changed after 300-400 welding operations. Heating temperature, heating time and holding time under pressure are specified for each batch of profiles.

When welding PVC profiles, pay attention to the following:
moments (reasons for possible errors during welding)

Strength in corners is significantly reduced if the temperature of the welded profiles does not reach 17° Celsius, or there are
large drafts;
From the correct miter cutting of the profile, if the inaccuracy of the angle exceeds even 1 degree.
The temperature measured by the device does not correspond to the temperature of the welded plate;
The welded plate is cooled on one side by a draft;
Temperature, time and melt pressure do not correspond sufficiently to each other;
Weld stops are set too narrow;
Insufficient pressure of the pressure plates;
Correspondence of the dimensions of the tsulag to the dimensions and configuration of the welded profile;
The surfaces to be welded are located due to improper fastening (adjustment of the welding machine) or cutting
parallel to the heating plate.

The temperature in production premises should not fall below 17 °C, and the relative air humidity should not exceed 70%. The area of ​​the fillet weld, as well as its quality, along with the nature of the fastening of the impost, are decisive for the spatial operation of the window unit under the influence of operational and installation loads.
A light weld bead near the weld indicates that the weld was performed correctly. The workpieces must be welded over the entire area of ​​the surface to be welded. The seam should be uniform and free of cracks.
If, when welding a white profile, a brown weld bead with a rough surface is formed, this means that the material has been burned due to too high a welding temperature or too long a melting time. At low temperatures, the seam bubbles.

Windows with such defects are not accepted for installation in openings and are definitely subject to alteration.
During welding, the indicators of temperature, pressure, cycle time, surface cleanliness for welding, as well as the length of profiles before and after welding, welding angle, diagonals of frames and sashes, are monitored on a scale of instruments.
dimensions in width and height.

After welding the frames, the strength of the welded corner joints is checked. To do this, corners measuring 250x250 mm are cut out of PVC profiles, at least 10 pieces. and carry out their testing in accordance with GOST 30674-99 "Window blocks made of
polyvinyl chloride profiles."

The welded profiles must cool for about 5-10 minutes before they can be processed further. The weld should not be rapidly cooled using compressed air and contact with a cold floor should not be allowed, which leads to the formation of uncontrolled stresses in the material and the possibility of rupture of the welded parts.

Automation of the welding process

Automation of the welding process is carried out using the so-called welding process controller.
The controller provides semi-automatic control of the welding process and maintenance of the specified heating temperature.
Its main functions:
- measurement and digital indication of plate (knife) temperature;
- starting and stopping the machine according to a given program;
- automatic control of plate temperature;
- digital indication of the machine operation algorithm;
- prompt setting of the required plate temperature;
- prompt setting of the required duration of heating and welding.
The average power consumption of the controller is about 20 W. Average service life is at least 10 years.

Based on materials from the Center for Modern Technologies "Universal", STK company

“Every fool can do it for money, but try it without money” (with Lebed, in my opinion) :)

It all started as usual: there is a great need, but no money to implement it. So I had to turn on my brain. :)

In general, given: a large house without windows. Something needs to be done about this... It is possible to make wooden windows yourself, but without the appropriate tools, it is very time consuming and difficult. After tinkering with one window, I realized that I would make a complete set for retirement. Therefore, I began to look for an alternative.
Why look for her? The alternative is here it is. Plastic. Cheap, technologically advanced, thoughtful, simple. It’s not for nothing that there are such a huge number of companies and firms producing windows. But their prices are steep (for me, at least)...

The Internet is a great thing. It took me a week to find the necessary nuggets of knowledge among thousands of pages of verbiage from sales managers, namely: how it works, what it’s called, what the welding temperature is, where to look for profile suppliers and other important questions.
The most important question “how to weld them” was resolved very simply: a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes, which every modern plumber has and which can be rented for pennies, easily provides the desired temperature.

Having figured all this out, I bought some of the necessary material (frame profile and reinforcement), cut it to size, and tried to weld it. First I welded the scraps. How does welding happen? Yes, just gently press the parts to a heated soldering iron, count to 30 seconds, watching how the ends of the parts melt and then squeeze them together. Leave for another 30 seconds to cool down.

Test result:

The “weld” here is not very thick, but for test welding it’s quite decent.

"Here!!! The casket just opens!" - with these words, I, filled with pride in my ingenuity, ran around the apartment, showing this unsightly piece of plastic to the household. :) After that, I started the car and went to the profile supplier to buy the whole kit.

So, what is required for production:

1. The profile itself (frame, sash, impost, glazing beads) plus steel reinforcements plus all sorts of small things.

2. Machine for welding plastic (see photo).

So to speak, evaluate the idea. :)

Don't pay attention to the window in the background - it's wooden, taken as a "glass donor".

The following are important in the machine:

1. A flat surface so that the parts being welded do not turn out to be a “screw”. I used a couple of sides from an old cabinet.
2. Guides fixed at an angle of 90 degrees. In my case, 2 profile trims worked.

Next, cut the workpieces. Plastic - with a regular wood saw, steel amplifiers with a hacksaw for metal. If you mess up a little, don’t worry: the welding allowance is 3 millimeters for each workpiece, so welding will fix everything. :)

The pieces cut to size are welded. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that when welding the last, 4th corner, you need an assistant - pull out the soldering iron, because it is pinched.

Note: “milling the ends of the impost” (i.e. the ends of these sticks need to be cut out in a figure) - there is nothing complicated here (it’s a little tedious only because it’s easy to cut “in the wrong direction”), first they are cut out with a hacksaw (it carefully cuts plastic) those places that can be cut with a saw, and all sorts of curly things - with an ordinary “pioneer” jigsaw.

Working together is more fun.

Then... then comes the installation of windows in the openings.

“What about double-glazed windows?”, you ask. More on double-glazed windows.

Therefore, it is better to buy the double-glazed windows themselves (a double-glazed window is 2 or 3 glasses, they are separated by a so-called “distance frame” and the whole thing is glued together) at the factory. They are inexpensive.

This is why it turned out wrong: over the winter I collected old wooden frames and took out the glass from them (i.e. the glass came out for nothing). The distance frame is sold in packages of 900 meters, 2 kilometers... :), but the world is not without kind people, and they sold me the 70 meters of frame I needed plus three kilograms of molecular sieve (it is poured inside the frames and over time dries the air between the glasses). Butyl tape for the primary sealing layer, polysulfide for the secondary one is sold by the meter and kilogram, so there were no problems with them.

I've never cut glass. But... the Internet, the Internet. :) After reading several articles about how to do it correctly and which glass cutter is better, I bought an oil-cut “Chinese” for 75 rubles, assembled the table and everything turned out surprisingly easy and relaxed.

Here's a photo of the cutting table:

We assembled the double-glazed windows, debunking the latest myth that the glass for assembling double-glazed windows can only be properly cleaned by a special machine :).

We inserted it and...received severe disappointment. Old glasses have an uneven surface and the image in them is distorted and “floats”. In old windows, when the glass is located at some distance from each other, this is not so noticeable. But as soon as you put them together in a package, you get a “distorting mirror”. Here is a birch tree swaying outside the window 30 meters from the house, and at the same time it looks either thick or thin. :)

About a month later, these distortions finally got to me and, having bought a set of bags at the factory, I took the homemade ones out of the windows and inserted the factory ones.

In the end this is what happened:

The shooting point is somewhat unusual, from about 4 meters in height. He climbed onto the roof of the UAZ, took off his luggage, and took a picture of the house. :)

PS: I am not advocating making windows yourself. :)

I deliberately do not disclose the budget for this event, respecting the work of those whose bread is the production of windows.

Many people have already felt the benefits of plastic windows compared to old window systems. If you still don’t have modern Euro windows installed in your house or apartment, then you need to do it urgently. The presence of high-quality window profiles and double-glazed windows in plastic windows allows them to reliably protect your home from temperature changes and from extraneous sounds. After installing plastic windows, your home will always have a comfortable temperature both in winter and summer, it will be cozy and pleasant to be in.

Installation of plastic profiles with double and triple glazed windows reliably protect the house from the penetration of cold air and street noise.

Often, to save money, people prefer to carry out, and this is a completely affordable task. Despite the fact that the window itself has a complex structure, it is not difficult to install plastic windows with your own hands, and you do not need to have special equipment or knowledge for this.

Features of the work

Before you start installing plastic windows with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the recommendations for carrying out this work, follow the stages and sequence of performing this work:

• measurements of the window opening are taken;
• old windows are being dismantled;
• surface preparation is carried out;
• new windows are being installed.

After taking measurements, and this must be done quite accurately, you need to contact a company you trust and order the production of windows according to the dimensions you specified.

One of the problems that may arise when installing plastic windows with your own hands may be that you will not be given a guarantee, since in most cases a guarantee is provided if all the work is carried out by the company’s employees.

For the specified type of windows there are no standards for size and shape; they can have a window unit of any size and shape and are made individually. Particular attention must be paid to taking measurements; if they are done incorrectly, the installation of PVC windows will be difficult; they may be larger or smaller than the window opening, which will lead to additional costs of time and money.

The installation of PVC windows has its own characteristics that must be observed, otherwise all the advantages that PVC windows have will be reduced to a minimum. But don’t be upset, if you follow the recommendations for installing windows, taking into account the individual parameters of a house or apartment, then you can install high-quality plastic windows yourself, without involving specialists.

It is worth noting that what encourages people to install PVC windows with their own hands is that some careless representatives of companies that install windows quite often neglect certain stages of installation, thus saving their time. Even if you constantly monitor their work, they may not listen to your wishes and comments, which is why many people decide to install PVC windows themselves.

Return to contents

Taking measurements

Let's consider how to measure windows without a quarter, what actions should be taken in the event of emergency situations.

If you are measuring a rectangular opening, then measure its width and height, do not forget to add the thickness of the window sill. When determining the width of the window, it is necessary to subtract the dimensions of the installation gaps from the result obtained, and when determining its height, the width of the gaps and the height of the installation profile. Measurements must be taken in at least 3 different places in the opening and focus on the most minimal result.

In order to determine the deviations of the opening in the vertical plane, a plumb line is used; in the horizontal plane, a water level is used. If they are significant, then everything must be recorded on paper, taking this into account the size of the window will be determined. If the width of the openings may differ in size, then the height of the windows must be the same; this condition must be met at least on one side of the house. The window should be installed at a distance that is 2/3 of the width of the wall. It can be positioned further only if you insulate the walls, which will lead to an increase in their thickness.

To determine the width of the ebb, just take the width of the window opening and add 5 cm to the bend. The width of the ebb will be the distance from the frame to the edge of the wall + the protrusion of the ebb of about 3 cm and the margin for bending it. Experts recommend measuring the slopes after installing the window.

The window frame is pryed up at the bottom with a construction crowbar and dismantled.

If you are measuring window openings with a quarter, then when determining the width you need to add 2 quarter entries into the frame, in general, this is from 5 to 8 cm; when calculating the height, you need to add an entry in the upper quarter -2.5-4 cm.

To determine the size of the balcony window, the length of the parapet is measured and 6-7 cm is subtracted from both sides, which is necessary for installing the corner profile. The height will be the distance from the parapet to the ceiling, taking into account the installation gaps. The dimensions of the side window blocks are determined in the same way.

If the building is old, then there may be a large amount of mortar on the slopes, and it must be knocked down to determine the actual size of the window opening. This will not only allow you to install the window unit reliably and efficiently, but also increase its width.

Once you have determined all the dimensions, you can contact the manufacturer of window units and together with him you will need to decide on the shape of the window unit, the presence of opening sashes and blind parts, and select fittings.

There are two types of window mounting:

• through the frame;
• using pre-installed reinforcement support.

When choosing the first option, you will need to remove all double-glazed windows and swing doors so as not to damage them during the installation process. Using the second option is more preferable, since there is no need to disassemble the structure, which eliminates the possibility of breaking its tightness, but you will not be able to insert the window yourself using this method, since it is quite heavy.

Return to contents

Carrying out preparatory work

The anchors are inserted into the holes in the frame and screwed to the wall with an electric drill.

Materials and tools required to complete the work:

• plumb line;
• water level;
• nail puller;
• crowbar;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• electric drill;
• rubber hammer.

After your order has been delivered to you, you can begin work on preparing the surface of the opening. Clean the space near the window, cover the floor and heating appliances. If necessary, the sashes are removed from the window block and the blind double-glazed windows are pulled out. To pull out a double-glazed window, first remove the vertical beads. Then remove the lower and upper beads, to put them in place, be sure to make marks. If you tilt the frame, the glass unit should come out of it on its own; carefully set it aside.

To remove the sashes from the canopies, first remove the plugs, and then unscrew the clamping bolts, then release the upper part of the opening sashes and remove the hook from the lower canopy. After such operations you will be left with a bare frame. Make at least 3 holes on each side and 2 on top and bottom for anchors on the inside of the frame. For reliable fastening, anchors with a diameter of 8-10 mm will be sufficient.

If the window block is fastened to pre-installed fittings, then you just need to fasten it without disassembling the window; for this purpose, use special screws that are included in the kit.

Since no GOST standards stipulate that the stand profile should be filled with foam, most installers of plastic windows ignore this operation. To prevent the formation of a thermal bridge, it is necessary to fill the installation profile with foam; it is best to perform this operation one day before the installation of the window unit.

The old window must be removed on the day the new unit is installed. If you do not plan to continue using the old frame, then after removing the sashes, it is filed down and easily removed. After the window frame has been dismantled, it is necessary to remove the insulation and seal that is located under it to the surface of the wall, using a hammer drill it is necessary to remove part of the slopes, and the window sill is dismantled.

It is necessary to thoroughly clean the ends of the opening from dust and dirt; if the house is wooden, then a layer of waterproofing must be laid under the frame. After this, you need to take out all the garbage and you can consider that the dirty work stage is completed. At this point, the preparatory work stage is considered completed, and you can proceed directly to installation.

Return to contents

Window installation and proper fastening

All gaps between the walls and the frame of the installed window are filled with polyurethane foam and covered with waterproofing film.

Substrates are placed on the lower edge of the opening; these can be wooden blocks, or you can purchase ready-made plastic pads. They are installed along the edges and in the center of the frame, and the frame or the entire window assembly is supported on the substrate; this will depend on the installation method you have chosen.

To secure the window on the sides, pegs are also used; they are installed along the edges so as not to cause the frame to warp. Using a water level, the window is installed horizontally; using a bubble level is undesirable, since it has less accuracy. To install the plane vertically, a plumb line is used. After this, you can install the anchors.

If the block is fastened through a frame, then first holes are made in it using an electric drill and holes are drilled into the wall using a hammer drill. First, the window is fastened on both sides at the bottom, the correctness of its installation is checked, and then the anchors are attached at the top and in the middle. The correct installation is checked again and the anchors are tightened.

If fastening is carried out through special fasteners (ears), then they already have space for anchors. In this case, the lower part is also attached first, and then the middle and upper parts, and at each stage the correct installation is monitored.

There is a special groove in the frame for fastening the drainage system; it can be additionally attached to the frame using screws.

After installing the frame, the window is assembled, everything is done in the reverse order that it was when disassembling it. After installing the double-glazed window, first install the top and bottom, and then the side beads, this is done using a rubber hammer. Install the doors and check how they open; they should not open or close on their own.

The next step is to seal the gap between the frame and the wall. Typically, polyurethane foam is used. The disadvantage of foam is that under the influence of natural factors it loses its properties, and to protect it it is necessary to create a good water barrier.

From the inside, you need to cover the foam with a special hydro-vapor barrier self-adhesive tape; it does not stick underneath. A moisture-resistant but vapor-permeable film is glued to the outside. A strip with a foil-coated surface is glued to the bottom, then it is covered with a window sill. After one edge of the film is glued to the frame, the space is filled with foam. In order for the foam to polymerize better, the surfaces must be moistened with water, then the tape is attached to the wall.

The window sill should go into the window opening and all the way into the lining profile; the window sill should go 5-10 cm into the wall and have a slight slope towards the room. The space under it is filled with foam or mortar, and the window sill is attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.

Nowadays, you won’t surprise anyone with plastic windows, presented in a large assortment on the market. Not so long ago, this was a novelty for many, but now it is commonplace. If suddenly you are faced with a choice of which PVC windows to choose, then you need to know that there is simply no 100 percent standard. In this article we will look at window manufacturing technology, with all the little things that will be useful to you when choosing this product.

Everyone agrees that coziness and comfort in every home certainly depends on heat, which means plastic windows are the part that contributes to its formation. What's the secret? Why do plastic windows retain so much more heat than traditional ones? And why have they become so popular in our time?

Highly perductive polymer is the material from which windows are made; in everyday life it is simply called “profile”. This product is highly resistant not only to moisture, it is also not afraid of temperature changes, as well as exposure to sunlight. That is why you don’t have to paint the windows every year because they dry out, put cotton wool in for the winter, as our parents did, all these problems were left behind.

“Profile” comes in various shapes and designs; usually, before ordering windows, it is best to look through the catalog of profile shapes. The brand and quality of the profile may not always coincide with the original appearance.

Before ordering PVC windows, make sure that there is a steel frame inside the profile, which prevents breakage and adds rigidity to the window frame.

The profile goes through several stages of processing before you can see the resulting frame.

The first stage is measuring. After the required dimensions are measured and marked, the ends of the profile are milled for their transverse compatibility. Corner joints are cut with a “corner cutter,” a device that cuts at a certain angle. All profile joints must be adjusted to the nearest degree; all angles must correspond to 45 degrees.

The second stage is soldering and fastening. Different parts of the profile are connected to each other in two ways: soldering and mechanical fastening. The edges of the frame (pre-sawn at 45 degrees) are placed on a special device - an iron, which presses the two profiles and solders them together. Well, the corner joints are ready. The internal connections of the profile are secured using fittings (angular plate) using special screws.

Before your windows are installed, make sure all corners are glued and secured at 90 degrees. Otherwise, if one of the corners does not meet this requirement, the window can be considered defective.

The frame is ready, now you just need to insert the double-glazed window inside. A double-glazed window is an unusual combination of several sheets of glass. Depending on how many sheets of glass there are - 2,3 or 4, the double-glazed windows are called double or triple, etc. pre-measured and cut glasses with a glass cutter are placed together on top of each other, a special metal profile is laid between them into which small balls are poured -... These balls suck out excess moisture. After the metal profile is prepared, it is placed between the glasses and covered with a special polymer (something similar to a rubber mixture). Thus, a space is formed between the glasses, while being absolutely sealed. This can be compared to a thermos system.

The glass itself is divided into categories: simple and energy-saving. Energy-efficient windows reflect heat, keeping it inside the house. The price of energy-saving glass is, of course, higher.

Before placing an order, decide which double-glazed window you want to install. If you live in countries where winters are not so severe, then single glazed windows will suffice, but if the winters are very cold, then opt for double or triple glazed windows.

After the double-glazed windows have dried, they will become suitable for use. They are simply inserted into pre-made window frames. As a rule, the profile has “caps” with rubber edging, this allows no air to pass through from the outside. The “caps” themselves are also cut with a corner cutter to the size of the window frame, and then simply inserted into the frame profile.

It is worth considering that the choice of accessories: handles, mechanisms, etc. is a very important part that deserves special attention. It must be taken into account that the room where plastic windows are installed constantly needs to be ventilated. Therefore, you will very often open and close windows, which means using mechanisms. Their service life depends on how high-quality fittings are installed on PVC windows. It is better to spend a little more, but be sure that your windows will not cause you unnecessary problems with their repair.

Window installation is another item that should not escape your attention. A team of professionals must know their business well. After installation, check all the windows, open and close them several times, nothing should cling or interfere with opening. Polyurethane foam should be applied evenly around the entire perimeter of the cracks. After all, sealing is the key to warmth in the house.

The quality of the window sill can affect the entire work. Choose leading manufacturers so that after all the work you don’t end up with problems with a window sill that will require replacement.

Plastic windows quickly and confidently replace their wooden relatives due to their excellent performance qualities. Making a plastic window yourself, and also a high-quality one, is not an easy task, but it is possible. In this article we will tell you how to make a plastic window yourself. Let's take a three-chamber profile as a basis. PVC windows from other types of profiles are made according to the same principle.

Necessary equipment

To make windows you will need:

• table saw with variable cutting angle (for cutting profiles);
• tsulagi for cutting glazing beads;
• a roller table for a saw, if you do not want to take measurements with a tape measure;
• grinder or saw designed for cutting reinforcing profiles;
• single-head, or even better, double-head welding machine;
• manual pneumatic machine - needed for cleaning corners from the outside (“dovetail”);
• desktop copy-milling machine;
• desktop machine necessary for processing the ends of the impost;
• manual pneumatic angle-cleaning machine for processing PVC profiles (“crocodile”);
• compressor;
• template for drilling holes in the frame for the impost;
• two templates for drilling holes for hinges (one for the frame and the other for the sash);
• templates for hanging frame and sash fittings;
• drills 3 mm, 5 mm, 10 mm;
• self-tapping screws: 10 mm (with a drill for reinforcement), 25 mm (for fastening fittings), 40 mm (for fastening hinges under the sash, 70 mm (for screwing the impost to the frame);
• chisel.

Stages of work

Profile cutting. For a square or rectangular window, cutting the profile should be done at a saw angle of 90˚. When cutting the profile, add a few millimeters for welding. On the profile, immediately label the horizontal and vertical lines with a marker, so that later you don’t get confused and solder the vertical to the vertical.

Reinforcement. Cut the reinforcement profile (iron) 90 mm smaller than the size of the frame profile - 2 pieces each (2 verticals, 2 horizontals). U-shaped iron is suitable for the frame. Insert the iron into the frame profile, making sure that the iron is strictly in the middle. Screw the iron to the profile from the back of the frame using 10 mm self-tapping screws and a drill. The distance between screws should be ≤ 200 mm.

Drilling external drains to release condensate. The procedure for drilling holes is performed only on the lower horizontal of the frame using a copy-milling machine. The recommended length of drains is 27 mm, and the interval between them is from 550 to 700 mm.

Welding frame corners. Before starting work, carefully study the functions of the welding machine and set the necessary parameters: welding and clamping pressure, welding temperature, welding time and cooling. After this, proceed to welding the frame corners.

Cleaning the frame. Using a manual pneumatic angle-cleaning machine, carefully clean the frame welds on both the front and back sides, setting the desired angle for cleaning. Then use a hand pneumatic sander to sand the outside corners of the frame. And finally, use a chisel to clean the welding seams located in the inner corners of the frame - in the gap under the sealing rubber.

Measure the location of the impost on the frame, then put on the template and drill through the plastic with a 10 mm drill so that the impost connector fits. Pierce the outer wall of the frame and the iron with a 5 mm drill.

Measuring and cutting out the impost. Measure the size of the impost along the frame (between two glazing beads) and add a few millimeters. After sawing the impost to the desired size, process its ends on the machine.

Impost reinforcement. The reinforcement (iron) in the impost is rectangular in shape. The cut-off part of the iron is attached to the bottom wall of the impost using self-tapping screws.

Inserting an impost. Install the impost connectors into the frame holes and secure on both sides with 70 mm self-tapping screws. Next, using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit, remove the walls between the frame and the impost in the pass for the sealing rubber (to roll the rubber in a circle). Start and finish rolling the rubber from the top of the frame.

Internal drains in the frame. Using a 5 mm drill, make several drains at approximately an angle of 30-35˚ (three holes - one drain). The distance should not exceed 50 mm -70 mm between internal and external drains.

Measuring and filing the sash. The calculation of the sash dimensions depends on the sash opening in the frame. Take a measurement from one glazing bead to another and add 15 mm - 20 mm (taking into account the soldering of 6 mm). File the sash profile.

Sash reinforcement. It is done in the same way as on the frame profile, but from the inside of the sash profile. It is unacceptable to screw a self-tapping screw into the middle of the sash profile.

Drains in the sash. Performed as in a frame using a drill with a 5 mm drill bit.

Holes for handle. Drill a 10 mm drill, exactly in the middle of the profile stick.

Welding and cleaning the sash. Do the same as on the frame, only completely clean the outer corners with a dovetail.

Rolling up the sealing rubber. Hang fittings on both sides of the sash and on the frame. Drill holes on the frame for the top and bottom hinges, and then drill holes on the sash for the bottom hinge. Secure the sash to the frame and close. Next, install the double-glazed windows and secure with glazing beads. The window is ready!