One of the brightest tools in landscape design is a decorative pond. Of course, most suburban areas are limited to the traditional six hundred square meters, and the owners simply cannot build a large pond, but because of this you should not give up the dream of acquiring an artificial pond. As for the technical part, it will not be an obstacle, but only if you have good instructions and desire. So, today we will find out how to make a pond at the dacha with our own hands step by step.

First you should find out what purpose the construction of a pond on the site will serve. From this point of view, reservoirs can be divided into four large groups.

Table No. 1. Classification of artificial reservoirs by functionality

Then, based on the goal and our capabilities, we proceed to choosing the style, location, dimensions and shape.

Second phase. Deciding on a style

An artificial pond can be made in one of two possible options, and each of them also has a great variety of modifications.

Table No. 2. Artificial pond styles

The topography of the site also plays a big role when choosing a style. So, if the surface is fairly flat, then the shape of the pond can be any. If there are unevenness and drops on the site, then they need to be given special attention, but they make it possible to additionally arrange a cascade or waterfall. In addition, against the backdrop of all this, say, an artificial slide will look great.

Also, the reservoir can be raised slightly above the ground. In this case, the construction technology will differ only in the arrangement of the foundation, which will prevent possible distortions of the bowl.

When creating such a reservoir, excavation work is minimized, and caring for it will be much easier.

Note! If the reservoir is built with a fountain, then preference should be given to a tall structure.

Third stage. Choosing a place

Let's start with the fact that we place the reservoir in the most favorable place, so that you can admire your creation from anywhere on the site. That is why we take into account several important factors when choosing.

1. Land area. Not only the size of the pond, but also its shape directly depends on it.
2. Illumination. It is preferable to place an artificial pond in a shaded place where exposure to direct sunlight does not exceed five to six hours a day, otherwise some of the water may simply evaporate. Moreover, in sunlight, biological activity may develop, which is unlikely to beautify the pond. Therefore, having chosen a specific place on the site, we observe the solar regime for several days.
3. Relief. The shape of the pond depends on it, and it also simplifies the installation of additional elements (for example, fountains).
4. Groundwater level, soil composition. These indicators affect not only the depth of the reservoir, but also the complexity of the work and the need for additional consumables.

Note! The greater the depth of the pond, the more illuminated place it should be located. If the reservoir is intended for fish, then we take the location even more seriously, since the oxygen content in highly heated water decreases.

1. Expandable. Don't forget about perspective, so we leave some free space on one side.
2. Visibility. It is advisable to position the pond so that it can be seen from home and recreation areas.
3. Electricity supply. If a fountain or lighting is additionally equipped, we will think about electrification in advance. It is better to lay the wires during development, underground and in a reliable protective corrugation. There should be small access hatches at the connections.
4. Reflection. The pond will look more attractive if the surface reflects the sky or beautiful buildings, rather than some kind of utility structure.
5. Landscaping. Vegetation near the pond is, of course, beautiful, but the leaves will pollute it and form silt. Moreover, tree root systems can damage the waterproofing layer.
6. Compatible with general design and other objects.

We begin work in the spring - this way we will have enough time for the reservoir to “take root” on the site.

Fourth stage. Deciding on the sizes

It’s hard to say that a large pond will cost more than a small one, since there are a lot of nuances here. Therefore, let's look at the key points.

1. Dimensions. They depend on the location of the reservoir. Many say that the pond should account for an average of 3-10% of the total area of ​​the site, although there cannot be any clear recommendations in this case. As for the specific length and width, they depend not only on the area of ​​the land, but also on our capabilities. After all, we will dig a hole under the pond manually.

2. Depth. It depends on the purpose of creating the reservoir, as well as its size.

3. Difficulty of content. The larger the pond, the easier (no matter how paradoxical it may sound) to care for it.

4. Zoning. The reservoir is divided into the following zones:

• coastal (from 10 cm to 40 cm), which will serve as an entrance and for planting;
• shallow water (from 40 cm to 100 cm), where crops that grow deeper (for example, winter-hardy water lily) will be planted;
• deep-sea (more than 100 cm) - it is required only in those reservoirs where fish breeding is planned; the area of ​​this zone depends, first of all, on the number of fish, but on average it should be more than 20% of the total area of ​​the reservoir.

5. Biological balance. In any case, living creatures will inhabit the pond, which means that conditions must be provided so that it can clean itself. No oxygenation or chlorination of water is provided here. It is worth remembering: no more than ½ of the entire area can be allocated for plants.

Note! The lowest point should be lowered below the soil freezing line, especially if you plan to breed fish - this way they can survive the winter in non-freezing water.

Fifth stage. Selecting materials

The next issue that needs to be dealt with is the choice of consumables. There are many options on the modern market that can be used to create an artificial reservoir. Let's look at them.

concrete pond

The most expensive option, which, nevertheless, allows you to operate the reservoir for quite a long time. Although concrete pouring is more suitable for arranging a swimming pool.

Finished plastic container

This option is more suitable. The mold, made of fiberglass or PVC, allows you to build a pond in record time and use it for up to 30 years (the specific period depends on the quality of the container).

The procedure itself will consist of only four steps:

• digging a pit;
• set the form;
• fill the remaining voids with sand;
• We plant plants and fill the pond with water.

The disadvantage of this method is the difficulty of transportation (if the volume is large) and the need for basic installation knowledge (otherwise the bowl may be damaged). Moreover, plastic containers degrade over time when exposed to UV radiation.

Note! It is preferable to use a fiberglass bowl that is reinforced with rubber - this design is more reliable and repairable.

Polymer film

In terms of pond shape, this option provides simply unlimited possibilities. The most affordable material is polyethylene film, although it will not last long.

PVC film has a longer service life; with proper installation, it can last up to ten years.

Perhaps the most reliable option. For ponds with a rocky bottom and great depth, it is recommended to use a butyl rubber membrane (EPDM), which has a service life of up to 50 years. In addition, this material can withstand repeated frosts.

There are several folk ways of making a pond, which use available materials. Let's take a look at the most popular of these methods.

Pond from an old bathtub

An excellent option, because a bathtub is a container that was originally intended to hold liquid. The bathtub can be painted in bright colors and placed in a picturesque corner of the site or, alternatively, buried in the ground.

Tire pond

A simple way to create a mini-reservoir on your site. The manufacturing procedure is shown in the photo below.

Pond from a basin

An even simpler way. The basin is able to hold water well, so it can be installed in the same way as a bathtub. With proper decoration, such a mini-pond will become an excellent decoration for the yard.

Note! Not only the aesthetic characteristics of the pond, but also its service life depend on the choice of material. It is desirable that the selected material is environmentally friendly.

Sixth stage. We prepare the equipment

To create a simple artificial pond, we will need a level, a cart with a shovel, a cord, a hose that is used for watering, and pegs.

If the pond is more technologically advanced, then the following equipment will be needed:

• cleaning filter;
• sterilizer (this will remove algae to keep the water clear);
• pump for pumping/draining water;
• aerator for oxygen saturation (especially important when breeding fish).

Seventh stage. We create an artificial pond

There are plenty of materials that can be used to create a pond, but we will focus on polyvinyl chloride film. The fact is that it is cheaper, takes the desired shape better, can be repaired, and does not require specific knowledge or skills to operate.

Step 1. First, choose the color of the film. There are several possible options here.

1. Black film – it will turn the bottom into a mirror (plants, clouds, etc. will be reflected).
2. Cream, blue- this way the pond will look more like a swimming pool, and the fish will be more clearly visible against a light background.
3. Brown– will imitate the soil of natural reservoirs. An excellent option for a landscape pond.

Also, when choosing a film, pay attention to the composition (PVC is more durable than PE) and thickness (for a pond you will need material thicker than 0.5 mm). Moreover, the greater the depth of the reservoir, the greater the film thickness should be. Equally important is resistance to UV radiation and mechanical damage.

Note! If the depth of the pond exceeds 1.5 m, then we use butyl rubber. This film is resistant to stretching, deformation and UV, moreover, it can withstand temperatures of 40-80°C.

• pond width + (depth x 2) + stock (55-60 cm) = material width;
• pond length + (depth x 2) + reserve (55-60 cm) = material length.

For gluing we will use special glue (for example, “Tagnit”) or adhesive tape (Quick Seam 3).

Step 3. The next step is to create a diagram.

First, we draw it on paper, and then transfer it to the ground. We indicate the sizes of steps or “shelves” for plants - this will avoid possible problems. To apply markings, use sand or a flexible garden hose (preferably in a bright color).

After this, we cover the marked area with a piece of light film and examine it from different angles. We make adjustments if necessary.

Step 4. Digging a pit. To do this, perform the following steps.

1. First we remove the turf.
2. Then we dig the pit itself. At the same time, we move from the edges to the center, going deeper in the required places - it’s more convenient. To lay out the stone and decorate it, we arrange a ledge 60-70 cm deep.
3. We remove the soil, and along with it roots, stones, debris and anything that can damage the film. By the way, you can make an alpine slide from excavated soil.

When carrying out excavation work, we pay attention to ensuring that the banks of the future pond are located on the same line. If a waterfall is created, then we maintain the required height difference.

Note! If a large level is required, we can make it ourselves. To do this, place a regular level on a long, flat board.

Step 5. We lay the substrate. We carefully compact the bottom of the finished pit, after which we proceed to the waterproofing layer, which will prevent water from penetrating into the soil.

The substrate can be made in several ways:

• we cover the bottom with stones and fill it with sand (this kind of waterproofing will lose its properties in just a few years);
• we lay a layer of geotextiles, which we fill with sand (this will cost a large amount);
• lay PVC film (the most reliable method, so we’ll focus on it).

Step 6. Next, we lay the film, preferably on a sandy “cushion” (the latter will prevent damage from stones and other dangerous objects). It is advisable to install on a hot day - as the film heats up, it becomes more pliable.

This may cause difficulty in forming folds. We try to make one large fold, rather than a large number of small ones, and then glue it or press it down with stones. The film should be loose and loose.

To secure it with a swarm there is an additional trench around the perimeter. We lay the film there, and then fill it with crushed stone. Next, fill the trench with large stones with a flat bottom (so that the film does not tear). We lay the walls with round stones (flat ones will slide). At the end, we fill the pond with water - we supply it without pressure, directing it to the center of the pit. After two days, cut off the excess film.

Step 7. We strengthen the banks. Their slope depends on the type of soil: if it is sandy, then the walls should be sloped, if we are talking about clay or black soil, then vertical. The optimal slope angle should be approximately 45°.

The strengthening itself depends on the type of banks.

If they are flat, then you can use:

• geomat;
• geogrid;
• polymer geogrid.

You can also use a regular chain-link mesh, filling its cells with soil with seeds of perennial grass (for example, clover). There is another option - to strengthen the banks with shrubs or plants.

If the coast is steep, then we can use:

• piles;
• gabions;
• retaining walls.

It can also be effectively strengthened using biological methods (planting). Ideally, biological enhancement methods should be combined with engineering ones.

Eighth stage. We design an artificial pond

There are several ways to decorate a pond. To make it a full-fledged design element, we use one or more of the methods below.

As a conclusion. Features of care

Finally, a few words about further care of the artificial reservoir.

Video - Creating a pond from film

Even the presence of the smallest pond on a summer cottage allows you to create a unique picturesque landscape. An artificial reservoir, by the way, can also change the microclimate. In dry areas it will increase humidity, which will have a beneficial effect on all plants.

How to create a small pond in the garden or at the dacha with your own hands? We will try to answer this question in this article.

Choosing a place

First of all, you need to determine exactly where the pond will look best. A suitable area looks like this:

• there are no trees on it (their leaves clog the pond, and the roots can damage the bottom);
• enough sun (at least 6 hours) for the development of aquatic plants;
• there is free space in case of possible expansion of the pond;
• the surface is as smooth as possible.

Also remember - the reservoir cannot occupy more than 3 percent of the total area of ​​the entire site.

In order for a variety of aquatic plants to feel good in it, it is necessary to create a special zone for them. In general, the bottom is always made with steps:

• water lilies are planted in shallow water;
• Ornamental fish spend the winter on the lower level.

You should not make a hole more than 180 centimeters deep. In terms of size, the largest depth ideally is no more than 20 percent of the total area of ​​the reservoir.

It is also necessary to leave room for coastal plants.

Base options

Arranging a pond using a ready-made plastic container will cause the least amount of problems. It can be selected in construction stores. Such tubs are relatively inexpensive and are very easy to install. Disadvantages include the inability to change the shape.

If you have an old bathtub on your farm, you can also use it in a decorative pond. Its shape, however, will be quite primitive, but it will be suitable for small areas and will last for decades.

A very small pond can also be easily made from tires (for example, from a tractor).

More beautiful landscape ponds are constructed using polyvinyl chloride film. Its thickness is up to 0.5 millimeters. It is ideal for a small pond. Its indisputable advantage is the ability to freely choose the shape of the reservoir - even a very fancy one can be created very simply.

Since installing the first options will not cause difficulties even for an inexperienced person, we will talk about the last method.

Step-by-step execution of work will allow you to avoid mistakes and unnecessary waste of time and money.

Materials

Even for a small pond you will need to prepare a lot:

• PVC film;
• large stones (preferably round);
• roofing felt;
• slate slabs;
• bricks;
• sand;
• fine gravel or screenings;
• aquatic plants.

Pit

To make your work easier, draw a drawing of the future pond and indicate on it all the necessary dimensions, including:

• width of curtains;
• side size;
• depths.

Photos of artificial ponds, which are easy to find on the Internet, will help you better decide on the shape. Consider an accent piece. It can be a large fancy-looking stone, a sculpture, a ceramic vessel, etc.

Draw the contours of the reservoir on the ground. We mark them either with twine on pegs or a sand line. It is important that the shore on all sides is located at the same level. After this, we remove the turf and fertile soil.

The pit is initially dug to the depth of the first level - it is approximately 40 centimeters. Along the bottom we mark the line of the next recess - here the hole is made 0.9 meters deep. And finally, we dig a depression for wintering fish - 1.8 m. If there are no living creatures, then we skip this stage. The soil must be immediately removed from the site; in particular, it should be used to create an alpine slide.

Upon completion of excavation work, the bottom is cleared of:

• roots;
• sharp stones;
• unevenness.

This ensures the safety of the film.

Along the shore, about 30 centimeters from the edge, a ditch 20 cm deep is dug. It is necessary to strengthen the film. After this, the pond along with the ditch is measured in length and width. We add one meter to the results obtained. It is with this margin that you should buy polyvinyl chloride coating. If its width is not enough, then the film is soldered.

Bottom arrangement

The entire bottom must be covered with sifted sand. The thickness of the pillow is 15 cm. It needs to be compacted well. Roofing felt is laid on top of it with an overlap of up to 100 mm.

Then comes the turn of the film. It is deployed over the hole and laid as loosely as possible, but so that a normal supply remains on the shore. The edges are pressed against the perimeter with bricks. This stage is easier to carry out on a hot sunny day - the polyvinyl chloride will become more elastic and easier to work with.

Finally, water is poured into the pond. It is left in this state for a day - during this time the film will take the required shape. Only after this is the excess cut off, and the edges are placed in the prepared ditch and covered with gravel.

Coastal decoration

To make the reservoir durable, it is not enough to simply lay the PVC sheet correctly; it is also important to prevent the bank from collapsing. To do this, it is necessary to strengthen the edge. This is done using:

• concrete blocks;
• PVC pipes and stakes;
• bricks

We lay natural stone tiles along the edge. We additionally decorate one of the banks with a composition of large boulders. One big one will do here too.

We fill the bottom with pebbles or crushed stone. We place prepared plants in containers along the clumps. For a pond, those that saturate the water with oxygen are suitable:

• water lily;
• hornwort;
• swamper.

After the banks are constructed, the reservoir is filled to the top.

A submersible pump is installed at the bottom. We lay the tubes from it to the source and connect them there to the filter.

With this video you will get a better understanding of pond construction:

Holidays at the dacha are an opportunity to devote yourself to nature, relax, forgetting at least for a while about everyday life in the city, and this is best done on the shore of your own pond. It all depends on your imagination and the size of your summer cottage. Is it possible to make a pond at your dacha with your own hands? Of course. Follow the instructions below and you will succeed.

Man-made pond at the dacha

Of course, you want to spend time at a well-equipped dacha, the territory of which has been landscaped and fully landscaped - after all, relaxing at a dacha, which is a rickety little house with a small courtyard overgrown with weeds and thistles, will definitely not contribute to peace of mind.

At the same time, a green, well-groomed lawn and neat trees, flower beds and artificial ponds will turn the territory of the dacha into a real earthly paradise. And decorative ponds will occupy not the last place in it. Your own pond at the dacha can be of almost any size - from a couple of square meters to a reservoir of significant area.

The first thing you need to understand is the very purpose of a decorative pond: unlike swimming pools, the water in which must be subjected to special treatment (chlorination, ozonation, etc.), a pond in the garden will require the creation of a certain biological balance. Otherwise, the water in it will bloom and become cloudy, the plants will begin to wither, and only midges and frogs will fall in love with it - a dubious pleasure for the owner of the pond.

Types of Garden Ponds

Garden ponds having a geometrically regular shape - rectangular, round, diamond-shaped, etc. - look especially good on summer cottages, landscaped in the correct geometry (straight lines, ideal shapes). As a rule, such decorative ponds are edged with tiled stone (artificial or natural) at the edges; they are arranged near buildings, thereby emphasizing straight lines.

Ponds with the correct geometry can be made above ground level: this type of pond minimizes excavation work during their construction, simplifies their care, and reduces the risk of small children falling into it. The sides of such a pond protruding above the ground are suitable for a flower garden; you can install seats on them, and you can arrange a fountain in the pond itself.

Artificial ponds that imitate natural reservoirs - they are characterized by rounded shapes and a coastline of arbitrary shape. Plants natural to the swamp flora are planted along their banks. A gentle slope under the water, covered with cobblestones or medium-sized pebbles - landscape designers usually place this type of pond in the far part of the garden, near the lawn. Such natural ponds are especially successful in random garden landscaping.

Choosing the size and location of a garden pond

Of course, the size of an artificial pond directly depends on the total area of ​​the summer cottage. If we talk about building a pond ecosystem, then large ponds are more convenient for this. It is easier to strike a balance between vegetation and aquatic life in a large pond than in a small one, and larger ponds are also easier to maintain. The smaller the artificial reservoir, the more often it will have to be cleaned - the lack of space for the inhabitants of the reservoir will not allow establishing a full ecological balance.

The location for the future pond is chosen from an aesthetic point of view; placing an artificial pond near the main building is especially successful - you can watch the surface of the water from the windows or while sitting in a chair on the terrace.

The optimal place for a pond will be an open space not exposed to strong winds - strong winds will prevent the development of tall plants on the shore of the reservoir. It is necessary to calculate the illumination of the pond: direct rays of the sun should not illuminate the pond for more than 10 hours (6-hour illumination is optimal). With greater illumination in stagnant water conditions, the active development of aquatic bacteria and green algae (for example, mud) will begin. At the same time, in those parts of the pond where the illumination is insufficient (shading), the growth and development of aquatic plants will slow down.

The proximity of an artificial pond to the tree crowns will lead to its contamination during seasonal leaf fall; in addition, the root system of trees can damage the pond bed, breaking through the underlying film or displacing the edges of the bath.

Owners who plan to install lighting for a pond in the dark, or install a pump for a waterfall cascade or fountain, must consider the location of the pond from the point of view of power supply.

Artificial pond - materials

A man-made pond can be made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or butyl rubber film, use a ready-made container made of reinforced plastic or fiberglass, or create a pond bowl from reinforced concrete.

In terms of speed of creation, the first place is occupied by purchased containers made of fiberglass - all that is required is to dig a deep enough pit for them and install the container in it on a prepared and compacted sand cushion (it resembles a large plastic basin and, often, of a bizarre shape).

True, it will not be possible to build a large pond made of fiberglass - mass-produced tanks, as a rule, have a small square footage (usually an area of ​​about 4 m2, depth - 500-800 mm). Larger fiberglass containers are intended more for swimming pools (over 10 m2 in area) and are therefore expensive. However, a small pond made of plastic or fiberglass is quite suitable for small summer cottage areas. The cost depends on the volume, shape and color.

A large pond with a “free” (i.e., not tied to any standard forms) layout can be arranged using a film (PVC or butyl rubber) - the film is needed to waterproof the reservoir. The cost of such material is low; it is widely represented in retail outlets both in terms of quality and manufacturer.

Do not use ordinary polyethylene to create an artificial reservoir; it will serve you for a maximum of 2 years, then its density will be damaged under the influence of physical and temperature influences.

PVC film or butyl rubber is suitable for creating a garden pond. The first material has sufficient strength and elasticity, and has a high-quality structure - the reservoir formed by it will last at least 15 years. However, the undoubted leader in the field of waterproofing materials for artificial ponds is butyl rubber - it has high resistance to sunlight, high and low temperatures, and is not prone to cracking. Among other materials, butyl rubber has only one disadvantage - it is not cheap, but its service life exceeds 50 years.

If we are talking about complete reliability and durability, then there is only one material left - reinforced concrete. Unlike pond bowls formed by film or cast materials, you can walk on the bottom of a concrete reservoir without fear - such a bottom is difficult to damage. However, it is more difficult to work with concrete; full compliance with the technology will be required (welding of reinforcement, manufacturing of formwork), double waterproofing (on both sides of the concrete casting, both outside and inside) - for protection from groundwater, i.e. the cost of such work will be the highest. You can use special grades of concrete that are not exposed to water, but it will be even more expensive and its use will require strict adherence to casting technologies.

Let's summarize the characteristics of materials for artificial ponds

The main advantages of film waterproofing: the ability to form the required shape, change the shape of the reservoir bowl in the future, ease of repair (if the film breaks). Minus: in winter, the water from the reservoir will have to be poured out; if it freezes and expands, it will inevitably tear the film.

Advantages of reinforced concrete: high reliability, independence from external climatic factors (subject to concreting technology), resistance to physical influences (falling stones, rodents, etc.). Disadvantages: high labor intensity, extremely difficult rework. As a rule, creating artificial ponds from concrete is not popular, since the film is much easier to use. But if you plan to build bridges over a reservoir and sculptural compositions on its banks, reinforced concrete will be the best choice.

When creating garden ponds, it is necessary to ensure that the selected materials are completely non-toxic, otherwise the fish and plants in the pond will not survive.

Pond in the garden based on a finished (rigid) container

When choosing a rigid container to create a pond with a total area of ​​up to 4 m2, you should choose a bathtub made of fiberglass or plastic. The minimum depth of such a container should be about 800 mm - the water in such a pond will warm up evenly in the summer, and in winter it will not freeze to the bottom.

A ready-made container as a basis for a garden pond will allow you to avoid cutting and fastening (activities performed when installing the film base of a pond), there is no need to build a general configuration - everything has already been done, the container is equipped with terraces for planting aquatic plants. You should be careful about your choice; you won’t be able to change it.

Ready-made pond baths are sufficiently durable and are not afraid of winter frosts. And yet, when transporting the pond container to the site, it must be handled carefully and not stepped on. The thickness of the walls of such a tank is 3 mm, and in case of mechanical damage, cracks will appear, which will be difficult to seal.

Cheap bathtubs made of plastic have the shortest service life - they are gradually destroyed by sunlight, and the surface of such containers cracks when bent. In contrast, containers made of reinforced plastic are more resistant to ultraviolet radiation and have a greater margin of safety (they are more plastic) - the service life of such pond reservoirs is up to 20 years.

The best, and therefore most expensive, tanks are made of fiberglass with a rubber base. A reservoir based on them will last more than 30 years and, unlike plastic containers, they can be repaired without compromising its general characteristics. Fiberglass is the most resistant to low/high temperatures and exposure to sunlight, it has high environmental performance and is completely safe for the flora and fauna of an artificial reservoir.

In addition to quality characteristics, fiberglass containers also have aesthetic appeal: they can be of three colors - black, brown and green; a decorative coating is applied to their edges, imitating natural materials, which makes it easier to give the artificial pond a natural look.

Fiberglass bathtubs are made not only for ponds, but also for streams. Containers for simulating a stream have an outward “stone” texture and easily fit into the overall landscape, and the multi-stage shape allows you to conveniently plant aquatic plants. The bed of such a stream is fenced on the sides with projections that protect plant roots from being washed out.

Artificial pond with film waterproofing

Flooring of flexible coverings is carried out both in a prepared pit and between constructed walls raised above ground level. Such a decision to create a pond at the dacha is justified if the expected size of the future reservoir is larger than the parameters of hard shells offered by specialized stores. Film coating is also used to create reservoirs of complex shape - the use of waterproofing film will greatly facilitate this task.

To create a reservoir, you can use polyethylene (thickness 500 microns), laid in two layers; its cost is the lowest among other film coatings. Although the characteristics of polyethylene are more than minimal: it is easy to tear (by sharp stones, animal claws, etc.), under the influence of the sun it becomes fragile, and if damaged it is practically impossible to repair. The polyethylene coating will provide waterproofing of the reservoir for no more than 5 years (on average - 3 years). This is rather a temporary solution for those summer residents who do not like constancy - after three years there is an excellent reason to change the location of the pond.

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) coating will cost more than polyethylene, but will also last longer - on average about 8-10 years. Manufacturers offer two types of polyvinyl chloride coating: regular two-layer and reinforced, in which a woven mesh is laid between the layers of film (for strength). In general, this coating has all the disadvantages of polyethylene. Solar ultraviolet damages the strength of PVC film; it is easy to perforate. But, unlike polyethylene film, damage in PVC film can be repaired using a special repair kit. In addition, this film stretches better - after filling the reservoir with water, most of the folds will stretch out and level out.

The best pond film is made from butyl rubber - this material is durable (service life is about 50 years), durable and not subject to destruction by ultraviolet radiation. Butyl rubber film comes in three colors: black, stone-colored, and charcoal-colored. If the soil on your site contains a large number of stones, or you plan to build a pond with a high load on the foundation (great depth and considerable width of the pond), choose a butyl rubber coating and you won’t go wrong.

Characteristics of butyl rubber coating: high plasticity, ease of installation regardless of the time of year and air temperature. Low temperatures do not affect this coating, so there is no need to drain water from the reservoir in the winter.

Pond film - which color is better

The color of the film will seriously affect the overall appearance of the reservoir. The black bottom will turn the reservoir into a kind of mirror; reflections of the sky, clouds, and plants planted along the shoreline will be clearly visible in it. A black or brown film will serve as a good imitation of natural bottom soil. A cream or blue bottom color will look unnatural, but colorful fish look great against this background. If you choose a grayish or bluish shade, the pond will look like a swimming pool. Choose the color of the film depending on the functions of the reservoir: if it is a pond - black or brown, if a pool - white or blue.

Create a decorative pond using film

We draw the outline of the future pond at the selected location and determine the required film size. The calculation of the film covering is done as follows: the width and length of the canvas will be equal to the sum consisting of the size of the width (in the second case, the length) of the future reservoir, twice the depth and 600 mm of allowance for securing the film along the edges of the pond.

It is necessary to take into account that the standard parameters of a roll of butyl rubber film are as follows: width from 4.5 to 15.25 m (more precisely, 4.5; 6.1; 9.15; 12.20 and 15.25 m) , length - 20-25 linear meters. Sometimes it is easier to make adjustments to the parameters of the future pond than to glue pieces of film together. If there is a need to glue a film for a pond, this is quite possible; you will only need special adhesives and adhesive tape produced by the same manufacturer as the selected film. To obtain a high-quality seam when gluing butyl rubber film, use mastic followed by hot vulcanization.

In addition to the waterproofing film, when forming a reservoir bowl, you will need geotextiles (optimal density - 350 g/m2) - for the insulating coating it will act as a protective layer (from tree roots, teeth and claws of animals, sharp stones, etc.).

To create a pond with your own hands you will need: sand (for the underlying layer), a spirit level (building level), a roll of cord (or twine for marking), wooden pegs, a garden hose, shovels.

Creating a reservoir pit

First of all, evaluate the future shape of the reservoir using a hose of sufficient length and pegs - change the position of the hose fragments until the shape of the reservoir bowl suits you. When planning a free-form pond, try to get rounded lines without sharp corners - such a pond will look better. When planning a pond, mark terraces for pond plants along its edges; they are done at a depth of 300 mm.

Having decided on the shape of the reservoir and completing the markings, begin work on the foundation pit. First, three-hundred-millimeter terraces are torn off (after filling the reservoir, the distance from the terrace to the water level will be about 200 mm). The banks of the future pond should have a slope of approximately 45°. In the process of creating a pit, try to remove all plant roots and stones that you come across. After completing work on the terraces, check the horizontalness of the banks using a board with a spirit level placed on it.

The next stage of work is the formation of the main bowl of the reservoir, its deep part. Remember: the minimum required depth of the reservoir is 600 mm. Such a reservoir will not freeze completely in winter, and in summer pond fish will be able to find refuge at such a depth from the scorching rays of the sun. Then along the shore line it is necessary to dig a ledge 60-70 mm deep for subsequent laying of a blind area from tiles, bricks, natural stone or laying turf.

We form a drainage layer and waterproofing

Having completed work on the pit, you need to pour washed sand over its entire area in a layer of 30-50 mm - the sand is placed on the bottom, banks and terraces, and carefully compacted. After making sure that sand drainage is sufficiently good (no unevenness), lay a geotextile fabric on top to insulate the film covering from damage.

The next step will be laying the prepared sheet of film. Do not try to align the film along the contours of the reservoir - let it sag above it - lay it loosely. Align the film sheet along the banks, securing the edges with a sufficient number of bricks (stones).

Connect a garden hose to a water source and feed it in the center of the film laid over the pit - it will gradually shrink, taking the shape of a reservoir. Monitor subsidence by moving retaining stones along the banks. After the artificial reservoir is completely filled, you need to wait a day, then cut off the excess film, leaving a margin of 250-300 mm at its edges (the blind area will be laid on them). Secure the edges around the perimeter of the pond using wooden wedges or wire arches.

The next stage is laying the blind area. Its width must be at least 600 mm, it is made of tiles, bricks or natural stone. The blind area needs to be laid on cement mortar - if it is laid only on a cushion of sand, a person who steps on the tile can slide into the pond with it.

Summer residents planning a waterfall or fountain in an artificial reservoir need to lay a water supply hose and cover it with a blind area before laying the tiles on the cement mortar. The same should be done if there is a need for power supply to the pond (underwater spotlights, water pumps), installing a plastic or copper tube for subsequent pulling of the electrical cable.

Creating a reservoir raised above ground level

Such a reservoir will require at least one retaining wall. A foundation for such a reservoir is required, otherwise the pond bowl may become distorted.

The construction of a reservoir above ground level is carried out in the same way as the construction of an ordinary garden wall: the location and parameters of the future pond are determined, trenches are dug for laying the foundation. After casting, the foundation must harden within two full days.

When creating a pond half submerged in the ground, dig a pit in the deepest part, then form terraces for planting (approximately at the level of the concrete foundation). Then carefully remove all the stones and place a sand cushion on the bottom of the pit.

Build retaining walls around the perimeter of the pond, carefully tracking the position of each row. Before laying the waterproofing film, wait 48 hours - the wall solution must completely harden.

Lay the film so that its edges evenly protrude from all sides of the supporting wall. If your future pond is rectangular or square in shape, form folds of film along the inner corners in the form of a neat accordion. The film sheet must be temporarily pressed against the top of the supporting walls with bricks.

Gradually fill the film hanging over the reservoir with water, moving or removing the pressing stones on the supporting walls, leveling the corner folds. After completely filling the reservoir, cut off the excess film along the edges, maintaining a gap of half the size of the supporting wall (it will be covered with stones when forming the ridge). Remove water from the pond. To protect the edges of the film, we install ridge stones. The pond is ready - fill it with water, place plants and fish.

Decorating a country pond

The garden pond itself is not bad - you can put a gazebo near the water and relax on a hot afternoon in the shade and coolness, watching the fish play in its depths. But you can turn it into something enchanting and colorful - fountains created by a pump system and underwater lighting will help here.

Pond pumps are produced in two versions: above-water and underwater. Let's say you want a two-meter stream of water to come out of a pond - then you need an underwater pump. If a two-meter fountain is not enough, choose an above-water pump and you will be provided with a really high column of water.

The underwater pump is mounted at the bottom of the pond: first a stone base is placed, the pump is placed on it and covered on top with a ceramic casing made to look like natural stone. The complete set (pump, base and casing) can be purchased from one seller.

How an underwater pump works: it draws water from the bottom of a reservoir and sweeps it over the surface of the water using special nozzles. If a fountain or waterfall is installed separately from a reservoir, water is supplied through supply pipes. Some pump models can simultaneously supply water to both a waterfall and a fountain. The pump is powered via an electrical cable with waterproof insulation.

The surface pump is installed in a camouflaged brick chamber on the shore of a reservoir, not far from a fountain or waterfall. Water is supplied to the pump from the reservoir through a pipe with a mandatory filter at the inlet. An above-water pump requires more technical equipment than an underwater one - a drainage system, filters (on the suction pipe), and a suction system. Otherwise it will overheat.

The greatest effect from the operation of fountains is achieved in reservoirs of the correct shape. Fountains are placed in the center of the reservoir so that the water they throw out does not fall on the shore plants.

The type of fountain and the height of the jet depend on the type of nozzle installed on the underwater pump. The stream of water itself, depending on the installed nozzle, may have the shape of, say, a bell or a beating key. A boring fountain tube can be decorated with fiberglass, stone, bronze or ceramic lining. If lining is used, the water nozzle is attached to the brass connector with which the lining is equipped. The lining body is placed either on the bottom of the reservoir or on a special stand.

Lighting will help create a magical atmosphere in the evening and at night. Lighting equipment for private ponds is designed for 12 V power supply. The power of halogen lamps in lamps can be from 5 to 75 W - it is enough for bright lighting, because the luminous flux of such lamps is 3 times higher than that of household lamps.

Mini-spotlights are installed on a special support or on a fountain nozzle, highlighting the flying splashes of water. There are floating lanterns, they consist of a light bulb placed in a sealed glass ball. They can be lowered to a certain depth into a reservoir, suspended on a weight, or installed at the bottom. Thanks to the spotlights equipped with color filters and rotating devices, the night pond will take on a simply stunning look.

How to care for a pond

The natural balance of the reservoir will form quite quickly. To maintain it, it is necessary to remove all wind-blown debris and fallen leaves before this mass falls to the bottom and begins to decompose. It is quite possible that the bottom of the reservoir will have to be cleaned with a net every autumn, eliminating bottom debris.

To protect the water area of ​​the pond from falling leaves, you can use a fine-mesh net - it should be stretched over the mirror of the pond before the autumn leaves fall and removed closer to winter. Or use a skimmer - a special pump for collecting floating debris.

To clean the bottom, a bottom vacuum cleaner is useful - its design resembles a regular one, but it does not have a filter. Water from the bottom of the pond is sucked into the device; as the chamber fills, the device automatically turns off and the container with dirt must be emptied into the drainage system.

If you put fish in your decorative pond, they will need oxygen. If there is a lack of it, use aerator pumps - they resemble aquarium pumps, only larger in size and power.

The main problem that owners of reservoirs face with the beginning of the warm season is that the water in it becomes green, which is caused by the active proliferation of protozoan algae. Most often, this problem is faced by owners of small reservoirs with shallow depth and therefore quickly warmed up by the sun's rays. You can prevent overheating of water by using aquatic plants with large floating leaves (water lilies and egg capsules), as well as by planting oxygen generators - plants that fill pond water with oxygen (Elodea canadensis, hornwort, mireweed).

At the beginning of spring, when the plants have not yet developed sufficiently, the use of chemical control agents (algaecides) is required. However, these drugs are harmful to both humans and aquatic life - so they should be used only as a last resort.

Birds and cats can pose a danger to fish in a pond; for them, fish are a subject of hunting. To protect pond fish from birds (for example, herons), you need to cover the space above the shallow areas of the pond with a net or black threads (the latter solution is especially successful - black threads are practically invisible against the background of the water surface). An obstacle for cats will be a decorative wire fence (at least 150 mm high), usually used to fence flower beds.

The main danger to aquatic fauna in areas subject to frequent frosts is ice. An ice shell that steadily blocks a reservoir for more than a day will lead to the accumulation of toxic gases formed by decaying remains of vegetation and, as a result, partial or complete death of fish. It is necessary that part of the pond is always free of ice; the best solution would be a special small heater. You should not try to break the ice using force - blows to the ice shell can stun and even kill the fish.

If your artificial reservoir is deep, use a pump to supply warm water from the depth to the water surface - this measure will prevent ice from forming. As a last resort, if there are no other methods and means, make an exhaust hole in the ice shell using wormwood; to do this, place a pan of boiling water on the ice (after the wormwood has formed, do not forget to remove the pan!).

How to properly plant a pond

Aquatic plants perform an important task - they are kind of filters for water. The biological balance will be established when at least a third of the artificial reservoir is allocated for plants. Moreover, each type of aquatic plant requires planting at a certain depth.

So, the pond is finished, filled with water - it needs to be allowed to settle for 10 days and only then begin planting. The optimal time for planting aquatic plants is the beginning of summer.

You can plant the plants in the laid soil at the bottom of the reservoir, but it is best to place them in mesh baskets, placing the latter on the bottom. It is easier to care for plants in baskets - move them to a warm room for the winter and propagate. The soil in the baskets is ordinary soil from the garden; it is not required to be enriched with manure, fertilizers or peat. Laying clean burlap or other coarse fabric on top will help keep the soil layer in the baskets from being washed away by water. Place medium-sized gravel on top of the fabric to protect the roots from pond fish.

Before planting, remove particularly long roots and old leaves from plants. After planting, compact the soil around the plant stem so that the distance between the soil and the edge of the basket is 40 mm.

Some types of pond plants do not require planting - they float freely on the surface of the reservoir, keeping themselves afloat. Representatives of such plants are water lilies and lotus. Such plants need to be closely monitored, because in favorable conditions they will quickly multiply and occupy the entire pond - periodically some of them need to be removed. The main plant problem for any enclosed reservoir is duckweed, which multiplies quickly and tends to take over the entire area of ​​the reservoir - do not plant it on purpose!

When purchasing aquatic plants, be sure to ask the seller at what depth they should be planted. When planting, take precautions - plants need light, and dense thickets on the surface of the water look unattractive.

During the winter season, aquatic plants, whose natural habitat is a temperate climate, remain in the reservoir. If you planted exotic plants from warm countries in the pond, then they should winter outside the pond. Take them out and place them in a body of water indoors - an aquarium or a bathtub, after pruning especially overgrown plants.

An important point: when moving plants indoors for winter, do not forget to provide them with sufficient lighting.

Caring for fish in a pond

For the full existence of fish in a country pond, its depth must be no less than 1200 mm. At shallower depths, the fish need to spend the winter outside the pond, otherwise they will die. Freshly purchased fish cannot be placed in a pond; give it time to acclimatize - it must get used to the temperature of the water in the pond. Let the container with fish float around the pond - this measure will prevent the fish from going into shock.

If you did not purchase fish from specialized stores, you should not immediately release them into the garden pond. Place them in an aquarium filled with pond water. The duration of such a quarantine should be at least seven days - this way you will find out whether the fish is sick.

Now about fish nutrition. In principle, the pond should have enough food for them: duckweed, algae, mosquito larvae and other insects living at the bottom of the reservoir. However, if there is not enough food or the number of fish increases, it needs to be fed. Buy fish food in specialized stores - it contains everything necessary for pond fauna, in addition, such food is enriched with oxygen and will not become a source of pollution for the pond; it will float on the surface for some time. Give the fish as much food as they can eat in 10 minutes, otherwise it will sink and rot.

Fish have a special need for vitamins in the spring; during this season, increase the number of feedings. In autumn, when the temperature in the reservoir drops below 10 °C, stop feeding completely.

Constantly monitor the condition of the fish, do not overfeed them, control their numbers (optimally: for 50 liters of water - one fish 100-150 mm long. Keep in mind that the fish are growing!).

A sick fish can be identified by its behavior: it, as a rule, swims in circles and at the same time “staggers”, rubs its sides against objects in the reservoir, lies on its side on the surface. The presence of diseases is indicated by “glued together” fins, a white coating on the eyes, snout, fins or gills. Having discovered a sick individual, immediately isolate it from the rest and place it in the aquarium. Then visit a pet store, describe the signs of the disease to a specialist and buy the necessary medications.

You can create an unusual landscape design in different ways. One of them is to build an artificial pond on the site with your own hands. The water zone will allow you to bring harmony and comfort into the surrounding space. In order for this part of the territory to become a harmonious addition to your possessions, and not a place that requires tireless care, you need to become more familiar with the technology of work.

You should start by choosing a site for laying. You will also need to choose the style of the pond. After all, it must match the exterior. The bowl of the reservoir can be supplemented with a waterfall or decorative stream, and the shoreline is decorated with a blind area.

The design of the reservoir can be made discreet, while boulders of different sizes and conifers will be present in small quantities, as well as multi-colored herbs. Today it is fashionable to make ponds in a geometric configuration; they can be rectangular or square. An artificial pond looks great next to the house and emphasizes the horizontal and vertical lines of buildings. Such a pond will be combined with a patio or courtyard, which is especially true if there are flower beds and linear paths nearby.

Selecting a location

Before laying a pond on the site with your own hands, you need to choose the right location. The pond should be in the shade for a certain period of the day. This will eliminate seasonal algae blooms. But you should not plan to place the reservoir completely in the shadow zone, otherwise there will be a delay in the development of plants. In this case, you need to choose a middle ground.

The pond should be illuminated during the day for about 5 hours and be open from the southwest. It is not advisable to place a pond under shady trees, because over time the water will be contaminated by falling leaves. If you decide that you will make a pond on your site with your own hands, then it is important to decide on its size.

The pond should not occupy more than 3% of the garden area. If 6 acres are occupied by garden crops, then 18 m2 should not be allocated for a pond. The smaller the dimensions of the reservoir, the easier its construction will be, and the costs (material and labor) will not be so significant.

After you decide on the length and width of the reservoir, you need to take into account its visual perception. The water feature must be combined with other elements of the landscape. In terms of depth, the space is divided into three stages, the first of which is an area for plants that will be located in close proximity to the shore; the shallow water zone will be intended for water lilies, and the deeper zone will be for wintering fish if you plan to breed them.

You shouldn’t go too deep; it will be enough to prepare a hole of 180 cm. This will allow you to reach and overcome the freezing line of the soil. When you have decided on the location and size of the pond, you can think about what materials will be used in the construction of the pond. In this case, you need to be guided by the fact that the work can be carried out faster and easier.

An expensive and capital option is a concrete base, which is erected using formwork and additionally reinforced with reinforcement. A less expensive way would be to use a plastic container. You can also make a pond on your site on a budget with your own hands; for this, a moisture-resistant film is usually used, which you can use to line the bowl. This method is taken as the basis for a detailed description.

If you decide to create a pond in your garden plot with your own hands, then you will need to select materials for it. This should include waterproofing. For example, ready-made molds of different configurations are made from fiberglass. Small ponds with an area of ​​up to 4 m2 are constructed from them. Ordinary plastic should not be used, because it is not ready to last long. But forms made of fiberglass are durable and reliable, but have one drawback, expressed in high cost.

Before starting work, experts advise considering the technology step by step. You can create a pond with your own hands on the site, photos of which are presented in the article. However, it is necessary to select materials wisely. For example, a film made of butyl rubber or PVC will make an excellent covering for the bottom of a free-form pond. The material is characterized by elasticity, durability, strength, resistance to aggressive substances and low temperatures.

Having chosen a film, you can expect that it will last about 15 years, and butyl rubber - even half a century. You can change the shape of the bottom in the future if you choose a film. It can be repaired, but does not have a sufficient level of strength.

If you carefully familiarize yourself with the technology of constructing an artificial pond, you can easily make a step-by-step pond with your own hands on the site. Photos of several options for its execution are given in the article. You can use reinforced concrete to create the bottom. This material is reliable, and its main advantage is strength. Such a bottom is quite difficult to damage, but there is still one drawback - it is difficult to work with when pouring, because special skills are required from the master. To create a high-quality bottom using reinforced concrete, technology must be followed. Concrete must be of a certain grade. Strengthening the structure with reinforcement is mandatory. This is especially true for bridges and sculptures that you will create yourself.

Preparatory work

At the first stage, it is necessary to draw up a plan for an artificial pond, determining the width and depth. Using a water hose or sand, you can outline the intended contour. The shores of the future lake should be at the same level. It must be measured periodically during the formation of the pit.

Next, you can begin excavation work. The pit is dug to the depth of the coastal tier. You can then create a digging line at the deepest part. The digging process is quite difficult, so it is better to use the services of earth-moving equipment. If you still decide to do this part of the work yourself, then you should prepare for the fact that water may accumulate at the bottom. You can remove it using a pump.

As soon as the pit for the pond on the site is prepared with your own hands, you need to use a cord to determine its dimensions, taking into account the depth. In the process of digging a pit for a future pond, the question will certainly arise: where to put the land? An excellent option would be to raise the level of the site. To do this, the excavated soil is evenly distributed throughout the garden. You can also use the soil to embank a stream or as a foundation for an alpine hill.

Forming the bottom of the bowl

At the next stage, you can lay a durable film. In order to protect it from damage by plant roots and stones, geotextiles are placed under the layer. For this, it is recommended to use roofing felt or old linoleum. Some resort to a method that involves filling the bottom with sand and compacting this layer.

It is recommended to choose a sunny day to carry out work on lining the film on the bottom of the pond. Then the material heats up, becomes more elastic and stretches better. This approach will allow you to go around all the ledges of the pit. To form an edge around the perimeter, you need to dig an auxiliary trench to tuck and secure the film. Its edges are laid in a trench and covered with crushed stone.

You can strengthen the edge with plastic pipes or stone blocks. The first of them should be nailed to the pegs. This will prevent soil from falling into the bowl. The edge is laid out with natural stone; you can decorate it with a group of boulders or a large figured block. Prepared plants are placed in plastic containers and placed on slopes. It is recommended to line the bottom of the pond with crushed stones and stones.

Final works

Having arranged a pond on your site with your own hands, at the next stage you can already fill it with water. In order to select pumping equipment and calculate the volume of hydrochemicals for caring for the reservoir, you should take water meter readings before and after filling. To prevent the liquid from stagnating, you can arrange a pond with a stream. It will ensure constant circulation of water. To do this, the source is raised above the level of the artificial lake, and water is supplied to it from a bowl using a submersible pump installed at the bottom of the pond. It is important to think about decorating the mouth.

For this, plantings, stones, glass containers or clay bowls are usually used. Pipes should be stretched to the source of the stream and connected to the filter. It is better if it is pressure, as it is more efficient than flow-through equipment.

How to avoid mistakes?

If you are trying to create something with your own hands, you may encounter some problems. For example, in the case of artificial reservoirs, there are standard mistakes that gardeners make. You should not decorate the banks with pellets of the same diameter, because then the pond will take on a boring appearance. It is better to combine large stones with small ones, but you should not overwhelm the coastal area with them.

The pond should not be made deep, because it has steep walls and will resemble a stone bag. As practice shows, earth-moving companies are advised to develop just such (deep) reservoirs for the reason that they are paid for the number of cubic meters of excavated soil. If you plan to breed fish, you should pay attention to the depth of the bowl. It shouldn't be too big.

You should not get carried away with container gardening, because it can interfere with the normal development of existing plants on the site. Although container planting allows you to quickly change the external design by rearranging or rearranging the plantings. You may also be scared by the prospect of a dirty looking pond after filling it with soil. However, there is nothing to fear here. After all, soil for aquatic plants is a heavy mixture with a high clay content. It is not washed away by water, but is compacted over time by the root system. If you are thinking about creating a pond with your own hands on your site, the photos in the article will help you confirm the correctness of your decision, as they fully convey all the beauty of a garden with an artificial pond. Experts advise setting up a small pond first to practice and understand what mistakes can be made.

Creating a pond from a container

The good thing about the containers is that they can be installed fairly quickly. You can do this yourself in a day or two. If you want to use a plastic bowl, you can choose one whose edges are designed to look like natural stone. In this case, the process will go even faster, because there will be no need to give the banks a natural look.

Before you create a pond with your own hands on an area without a film, you need to install a finished container in the designated area. It should be laid on bricks and positioned as level as possible. It is necessary to outline the edges of the bowl with lime or light sand so that the pit matches the topography of the container. This will allow you to mark zones of different heights.

Next, a pit is dug; you must act carefully, expanding and deepening by 10 cm. Using a level, make sure that the bowl is installed horizontally. If necessary, you can adjust the position of the container by deepening the pit. When creating a pond on a personal plot with your own hands, the container must be filled one third with water, after which you can begin to fill the cracks with sand, stirring it with water. The further plan is to decorate the appearance of the artificial pond.

A budget way to create a mini-reservoir

If you don’t want to create a large pond, then you may prefer its mini version. A too primitive approach would be to use basins, buckets and bathtubs. However, you can use a tire instead. The larger its diameter, the more impressive the size of the pond will be. The reservoir will have decent dimensions if you borrow a tire from KamAZ, BelAZ or the Belarus tractor.

Further work will look the same as in the cases described above. First you need to dig a hole, the diameter of which will be slightly larger than the tire. The workpiece is installed there. You shouldn’t go too deep, otherwise the space will fill with rainwater.

When building a pond on your summer cottage with your own hands, you can use film, laying it in two layers on the bottom and sides of the tire. The edges of the film should be folded under the sides. The pond is then filled with water, and its banks are decorated with plants and stones of various shapes and sizes.

Design of the coastal zone

If you are a lover of natural style, then you will probably give preference to a large body of water. Its banks are usually decorated with lush vegetation, which refers to the local flora. It could be:

• swamp iris;
• coin loosestrife;

But sometimes in garden plots you can find plants such as reeds or darmera. As mentioned above, you can choose a pond in strict symmetry. In this case, the plants are planted near it in a certain order. Large rectangular slabs are laid around the pond. Wooden flooring looks quite attractive.

By creating a pond on the site of a country house with your own hands, you can make it a romantic place by adding decorative bridges. Among the tall plants suitable for such conditions are:

• marsh iris;
• gunner;
• Hosta Rogers;
• astilbe;
• bergenia.

Tenacious plants, forget-me-nots and sedums should be planted between the stones.

How to maintain order?

Like any other structure on the site, the pond will require some maintenance during operation. This is not so difficult if you choose the right plants and ensure normal biological balance. Such a system will regulate itself, and the owner will only have to help it a little.

Having created a pond for ducks with your own hands on the site, in the summer you will need to remove weeds near it and algae from the water. To do this, you can use a rake and a net. It is recommended to purchase chemicals, but only if you do not intend to keep poultry and fish. With the help of these substances you can clean the pond and saturate the water with oxygen.

If the pond dries out, water must be added periodically. In the autumn, you will have to remove the leaves, otherwise they will sink to the bottom. A special mesh is stretched over the surface to protect the pond from debris. All equipment is also removed for the winter. With the onset of spring, dried stems should be cut off. The bottom and walls must be cleared of silt; special equipment is usually used for this.

Finally

You can create a swimming pond with your own hands on your site. To do this, the pit is dug in several stages to create a slope with steps. In this case, the bottom is usually made of concrete, because using a plastic film bottom is dangerous. However, one of the successful solutions is to install a ready-made container. When thinking about how to improve a pond on your property with your own hands, you can add a ladder to it if you plan to use it for water procedures.

Before starting work, it is important to decide whether you are ready to take care of the artificial pond yourself. Although such a system regulates itself independently, it still requires human participation. You will need to equip yourself with the appropriate equipment to catch debris in the form of leaves. Some summer residents and owners of houses within the city find such structures a burden. Over time, they abandon them. Therefore, some part of the territory becomes dysfunctional and unattractive.

01.03.2016 45 767

How to make a pond at your dacha with your own hands - step-by-step technology and mistakes