Do-it-yourself high chair for feeding or how to make a transforming high chair for feeding a child with your own hands from wood. Children's chair made of plywood with drawings Children's chairs made of plywood

A lady acquaintance once asked one of the founders of the Encyclopedia Denis Diderot: at what age should one begin raising a child? “How old is yours?” – he asked in response. “Oh, he’s only one day old!” The philosopher shrugged: “In that case, you’re already a day late.”

A child will need a high chair not on the first day of his life, but when the baby begins to sit up independently, at about 6 months. But its role in the formation of the personality of a new person is by no means small. Firstly, the formation of the musculoskeletal system and correct posture begins on the chair. Secondly, from the high chair the child learns to handle things. This is his first property that is not a toy. Children who grew up on the lap of their mother or grandmother, on average, get along worse with others and realize their abilities less well.

The interests of parents also, of course, cannot be discounted. Feeding a small child often brings out a storm of emotions that parents may simply find exhausting at the moment. Feeding something that is spinning like a spinning top on your lap, calmly and kindly, costs a lot of effort; the child feels it and only gets more excited, which does not benefit him at all. In addition, you need to protect clothes, carpets, and furniture from volleys of porridge, soup or puree.

Therefore, out of a fairly large number of varieties of children's chairs, the first in importance and time to start using is a high chair. A little later, after about another 4-6 months, he will need a play/work chair. We will deal with them in this order.

General requirements

To make a useful and comfortable high chair for your baby with your own hands, you first need to take ergonomics into account.

First, the chair for young children should not be too soft: In order for a child’s skeleton to grow correctly and muscles to develop, his body must feel reliable support. It is advisable to make the play chair generally rigid, but on the high chair and work chair, relatively thin soft pads on the seat and back are needed. A gaming chair and a work chair are most often the same, so what should we do?

These conditions can be combined by sewing cushions of the following structure according to the size of the seat and back (from bottom to top): canvas or burlap - padding polyester 5-7 mm - flannel, calico or flannel - decorative fabric. To secure them, you will have to sew on straps that tie/fasten under the seat or behind the back, but this makes making the chair itself and caring for it easier.

Second, avoid plastics. For children's items today, the safety of high-density polyethylene (produced without the use of catalysts) and PET has certainly been confirmed, but there are no suitable blanks made from them for home craftsmanship. PVC seat upholstery is a relic of the past: when there were no diapers, without it diaper rash in babies was more common.

The next point is the size of the chair. The table of recommended sizes of children's chairs for games and activities is shown in Fig. The main parameter for choosing it is the growth group. The back height is obtained by subtracting the seat height from the total height of the chair; in a high chair it must be determined separately, because his seat is raised for the mother's comfort. The table has been compiled for child care institutions; the dimensions of a chair for a child in a family can be found more accurately and simply: we look carefully at who he matches in height and build; about eyes, eyebrows, etc. disputes later. Then the prototype parent shows which chair she/he is most comfortable in, we take the dimensions from it and multiply by 0.55. A child on such a seat will be fine from about a year to 4-5.

Note: Based on the above, all dimensions of the product samples given below are subject to adjustment if necessary.

Materials

What to make a high chair for a little one is also an important question. It is better not to use metal at all, or in small quantities (for example, fasteners) and so that the child does not have access to it. Children's bodies are generally more resilient than adults, but babies' skin is very sensitive. This is determined by the instinct of self-preservation: what is simply slippery and a little cold for an adult is a danger signal for a child. Since he himself cannot yet avoid her, he has to appeal to his parents. Those who have children know how. But they don’t always understand why, and that’s what makes them cry out loud.

For example, in Fig. on the right is the erroneous use of steel fasteners.“Intensive use of corners” not only does not strengthen the structure, contrary to the claims of its author, but it is also dangerous for the baby. An adult’s finger will go unnoticed in the corner with a self-tapping screw, but the baby may get scratched. In general, children don’t mind scratches, but if he is regularly placed in something that bites for feeding, then how will this chair affect the child’s psyche? The question is rhetorical.

Processing and finishing

So, we are left with practically only wood, MDF and laminated chipboard of class E0 in terms of phenol emission. In a high chair for a very young child, it is still better to use hardwood or MDF, they are completely chemical-free. Hypersensitivity to pine resin or traces of phenol-containing compounds occurs in about 1 in 400,000 babies, but how can you be sure it's not yours? It is impossible to identify in advance.

A highchair for babies is exposed to external chemical influences of approximately the same nature and to the same extent as a kitchen stool, but the sanitary and hygienic requirements for it are much stricter. Therefore, before assembly, the parts of a wooden highchair must be treated with a water-repellent and bactericidal composition, and the finished product must be covered with a protective layer.

There is also almost no alternative here: impregnation is a water-polymer emulsion or, instead, PVA diluted three to four times with water. The coating is water-based acrylic varnish. There is no reliable evidence of complete safety for children of other compositions for processing/finishing furniture. Be especially wary of stains; Children's furniture with varnish is best left as is. Design and decor in this case are by no means determining factors.

About plywood

When making a high chair for the firstborn from wood, an amateur craftsman (who may be taking on furniture for the first time in his life) will have to face a number of technological difficulties, see below, respectively. section that cannot be overcome without a workshop and special tools. Plywood can help out; You can use it to do almost everything at home. But not every one. Simple birch (not waterproof and not baked) and also simple construction or packaging are definitely suitable. The latter is covered with so-called veneer. pine trees cut down in winter. Dried pine already contains almost no resins, and in the process of making plywood, their remains are completely removed. These types of plywood are made with casein glue, which is absolutely safe for children. They are given moisture resistance and additional strength by the impregnation described above, but twice: a second time after complete drying (about a day) of the initial one.

About the glue

Due to its combination of qualities, PVA is most suitable for gluing and gluing in the manufacture of children's furniture. Modern furniture pur-glues are much stronger, but also more expensive; for a product whose service life does not exceed 5-7 years, the first is unimportant, but the second can “bite”. But PVA has the following advantages:

• Absolutely harmless and safe, which has been proven by more than half a century of experience. As they say, at least eat it; even if the liquid gets into the eyes, it is washed off without any residue with water, if you rinse it immediately.
• PVA drips can be easily cut off with a mounting knife, and their remains can also be easily sanded clean.
• The PVA joint can be separated by warming it up properly with an ordinary household hairdryer. This is important if the high chair needs to be disassembled and stored until the next addition to the family. Also, if you need to replace its individual parts as the child grows, see below.

The very first high chair

The most commonly used designs for chairs for feeding children are the following, in order of increasing complexity of manufacture:

1. Stands/holders – boosters – for feeding a baby on an adult chair, hard and soft;
2. Typical (classic) home folding high chairs;
3. Children's transforming sets and “growing” (for growth) chairs;
4. Stationary chairs for feeding babies.

The latter are used either in children's institutions for the youngest, or in wealthy households with excess living space. In both cases, the chair requires high strength: in children's homes it will be used by many generations, and wealthy owners care about prestige and also design. As a result, a stationary chair for feeding children turns into a rather complex product, the manufacture of which requires special tools and production conditions; for an example, see the drawings in fig.

Boosters

These are attachments or devices for feeding a child on a chair and at a table for adults. Hard booster chairs (the first 3 from left to right in the figure) save space in a small apartment, so they are quite popular.

However, it is impossible to make them fully compliant with the requirements of children's ergonomics. The second is for children from 6 to 9-12 months. they are of little use. Third, soft attachments to an adult chair (leading manufacturers invest a lot of money in their development) do not provide a complete guarantee that an angry fidget, delighted with his favorite juice, will not fall on his side along with himself, the booster and his dad’s chair.

Much more practical are soft boosters for feeding babies, which are no longer chairs, but something like a kangaroo pouch, on the right in the top pic. They cannot be used constantly; there is a risk of ruining the child’s posture. But at the dacha, picnic or on a trip, the pocket for feeding - the booster will be very useful, especially since it will take up almost no space in my mother’s bag.

Making a soft booster for feeding a child is already a more feminine task, because... it is sewn; the pattern is shown in Fig; they are given without allowances for processing.

Note: the slings are wound from the sides of the cape onto the back of the chair from under the bottom, brought out through the openings and tied or fastened.

Home classics

How the familiar folding high chair for feeding babies at home is constructed, and its dimensions are shown in Fig. Materials - timber 40x20, 75x20 (footboard and leg ties), 16x25 (backrest slats, seat apron, tabletop frame), board 100x20 (inserts into the frame of the front legs) and plywood 6-8 mm (seat, tabletop). Assembly, except for hinges, is on confirmats (furniture screws) 60x6.

The connections marked in red are hinged: the table tilts up, and the frame of the rear legs is pressed against the front ones. The bolt heads (M6-M8) are on the inside and covered with plugs, red mark with an exclamation mark. The seat is hung on the front support bar on card hinges.

To fold the chair, first lift the table and move the frame of the rear legs back a little. Then the seat lowers itself, and the frame of the rear legs is pushed forward all the way - the chair is folded. And when unfolded, the entire kinematics of this chair locks without additional clamps according to the principle of a dead center, and let the little eater wriggle there as he wants - the chair will stand under him.

The only technological difficulty in the manufacture of this chair is the joining of blanks for the side frames of the front legs on dowels (lamellas) in the mustache or dowels. But you can get around it if you make the front frame from plywood, see below. Its operational drawback is that the thickness of the package is more than 10 cm. For a pantry in a small apartment or a closet in the hallway, this can be too much. And here plywood comes to the rescue, see below.

Transformers and growing

Transformable children's chairs for all ages are on sale, 3 positions. on the left in Fig. They are really convenient and functional, but technologically complex: some of the necessary parts can only be made in a factory workshop. Accordingly, the cost of such chairs is quite high.

For repeating with your own hands, a more accessible set is a chair with a table, on the right in Fig. Which is what many people do, but they immediately discover that a set with an inverted table takes up more space in the apartment than a children’s high chair and table separately.

But the main thing is that this building is unhygienic. When the child sits down at the table, the edge of the large tabletop closest to the floor in the feeding position will be literally under his hands. And also - the undersides of the legs in the 6-12 month position, which have now become legs, and even awkwardly protruding upward.

There are no materials that do not scratch or cause microcracks. It is impossible to remove ingrained dust from the floor, which is what microbes need. Changeling kits for small children have been on sale relatively recently, but there have already been cases when they became foci of infection. Self-made ones from wood only make the danger worse.

The epidemic of fashion for transformable furniture (in this case there is no other way to say it) has given birth to real monsters, see fig. on right. When the child reaches table age, the chair is simply... sawed off, and the former supporting pyramid is turned over and becomes a table. Everything is clear about the hygiene of a large countertop, see above. As with a feeding table that is too narrow: there will be no food on the mother and on the floor only if a specially programmed robot is sitting on the chair.

And first of all, put yourself in the child’s place: there is a rigid fence on all sides. All that remains, as they say, is to put him on a chain. Secondly, a large table will be unusually rolly. Well, have you ever seen tables for neat adults whose legs converge downward? It’s funny, of course, but whoever starts this at home will probably not be laughing.

“Growing” chairs

In general, if we are talking about a small child, it is better not to experiment with transformable furniture, excluding proven folding designs. For example, let’s take “growing” chairs, see fig. left. You can really sit on this from a simpleton to his dad, but it won’t be quite comfortable at any age. And in order to adapt the chair for growth for feeding, it will have to be turned into a product comparable in complexity to a stationary chair for babies.

How to take everything from plywood

High chairs for babies are often made from plywood. Many homemade designs turn out to be quite practical and good looking, on the left in Fig. However, once the need has passed, it is hardly possible to adapt them for something else, first. Second - see on the right in Fig. laid out parts. Material waste is estimated to be at least 60%. Although you can buy good plywood for 300 rubles per sheet 1550x1550, it would still be advisable to do without crooked scraps that are now useless.

Here is the time to realize that an adult folding board chair made of plywood can be easily adapted for feeding a baby, see next. rice. Dad's for fishing or mom's garden, depending on who is in charge in the family. In terms of sanitation and hygiene, it is better, of course, to make this chair right away for a little one, and use it for adult use when he grows up.

From the remainder of cutting out opening A, you will get 2 struts for a child’s table with L-shaped legs; You will need to cut grooves for them in the sides of the chair. To feed a child, it is advisable to add a fabric back to such a chair: it will not reduce the comfort for adults, and it will not interfere with the folded chair hanging on the wall. A small tabletop is attached to struts on piano or card hinges, then the feeding table will also fold into a compact package.

Note: It is better to measure the dimensions of the struts using a ready-made, unfolded chair. This will be easier and more accurate than fiddling with trigonometry.

Another folding chair of the same type is shown in Fig. on right. It is smaller, 500x750 when folded. It’s not bad because from a sheet of plywood 1550x1550 there are exactly 6 of them, and the length fits into the trunk of almost any car. The letter w indicates the cutting width. In general, look at your child, yourself and your needs.

Older chairs

At the age of about one year, the child will already need a chair on which he can sit down, move it, and rearrange it. Chairs for small children in the age category following babies are play chairs (on the left in the figure below) and work/study chairs, in the center. Working chairs for children differ from play chairs primarily in their armrests; They are necessary for the child to develop correct posture. Then, the seat height of the work chair can be immediately taken based on the oldest preschool age, i.e. up to 400 mm. In this case, you need a step; preferably repositionable. The approximate dimensions of a high chair for babies of the “second stage” are given on the right, but, as mentioned above, they need to be specified according to the child.

Drawings of chairs for older children are given below. rice. On the left is a game of the simplest design. The legs are the optimal length for a child aged 12-36 months who often plays on the floor. Fasteners – wood screws 40x4.2.

High chair for a child “like an adult’s”

The chair on the right is more complicated; its parts need to be marked on a grid and grooves cut to connect them. But it is universal, playable and working. The small protrusions of the sidewalls above the seat are enough to prevent a normally active child from sitting down with half of his butt hanging in the air. The seat height of 400 mm is the maximum for very young children. It can be made minimal first, approx. 220 mm, and then change the sidewalls as they grow; It will take a little labor and plywood, but mom will have something to say to dad on occasion. So, if dad is prudent, it is better to immediately cut the sidewalls for growth.

This chair is basically easy to assemble, like a puzzle. In the mobile version, say, for trips to the country, you can leave it like that. But with constant use, the chair will soon become loose, no matter how tight the joints were initially. Therefore, it is better for a child of this kind to glue his home chair with PVA. Dismantling, if necessary, put into storage - see above, about glue.

Finally, there is a category of children who, having barely realized themselves in this world, want everything to be like an adult. This is generally a useful quality, but dad will have to work harder on a chair and other furniture for the child. The design and dimensions of a highchair “like an adult’s” are shown in Fig. on right. A wooden chair of this design will require quite complex technological techniques, but even in this case plywood will come to the rescue, see next. chapter.

Video: example of a simple DIY mini-chair

Technology and plywood

To make a high chair for children from wood, you need to know or will have to master how to make some carpentry joints: on dowels, using dowels (lamellas) and tongue and groove. How they are produced, using examples of carpentry, see the videos, arranged in order of increasing complexity:

Video #1: dowel connections

Video #2: corner connection with dowels for frame structures (bursting corners)

Video #3: tongue-and-groove connection

Video #4: direct keyway connection for joining board panels

As you can see, at home, with simple hand tools, only poses can be done quite well. #1. Pos. #2 and #3 for a novice carpenter will turn out by hand with ease, and for poses. #4 A good professional cannot do without a workshop and special equipment. And now - shhh! - all this can be done at home by a “complete teapot”, using only a jigsaw and a little chisel. If the parts blanks are assembled with glue from 3 layers of plywood, the thickness is, respectively, 1/3 of the required one. Among other things, this technology makes it possible to assemble parts of complex shapes from small-sized fragments, which makes it possible to create denser parts, i.e. cut the material economically.

How straight and angular tongue-and-groove joints are made in this way is shown in pos. 1 and 2 fig. resp. If the tenon is made trapezoidal with rounded corners, then the strength of the joint will increase several times, i.e. will be sufficient for adult furniture. This technology is not used in production - it’s a hassle and therefore unprofitable, but at home it’s better than buying or renting a machine for 60-100 thousand rubles.

To glue a package of blanks into a PVA part, you also do not need any special devices:

• Lay plastic film on a flat floor or table.
• Both surfaces to be glued are coated with a thin layer of glue; It's better to use a brush.
• Leave the adhesive layers until they are semi-dry and tack-free, when the adhesive film begins to become translucent at the edges.
• Place the blanks in a bag and press them.
• Cover the bag with another layer of film and place pressure on it from a dispersed load (books, for example) at a rate of at least 20 kg per 1 square meter. m of glued area.

Note: because The blanks in the bag may “float away” a little during gluing; they need to be cut with an allowance of 1-2 mm for finishing.

The tongue-and-groove corner joint must be reinforced with self-tapping screws with a diameter of no more than 0.5 times the thickness of the tenon, a pair per tenon. For example, if a part is 15 mm thick and consists of 3 layers of 5 mm each, then the diameter of the hardware is 2-2.5 mm. Glue is applied to the tenon and groove; the first is inserted into the last, as soon as the glue begins to come off (after 2-3 minutes), and immediately the connection is tightened with hardware.

How to tighten screws

In the above and all other cases of fastening parts with self-tapping screws, it is necessary to pre-drill blind holes for them with a diameter of the body (rod) of the self-tapping screw without threads and a depth of 2/3 of the length of its threaded part. A hole for the screw head is also selected in advance. After screwing, the head is covered with putty made from sawdust of the same plywood on the same PVA; Up to 2.5-3 volumes of sawdust can be added to 1 volume of glue.

Finally

Well, now on to the new thing - new impressions and bon appetit. Just don’t throw porridge in celebration, my parents tried.

We assemble a growing chair with our own hands.
I think it would be superfluous to once again talk about the relevance of the problem of maintaining correct posture in children. One of the most important conditions is to ensure correct sitting posture, which depends on many parameters. Regular chairs will not work. Unfortunately, office chairs with gas lift are also not able to solve this problem, since they do not have an adjustable footrest or seat reach adjustment, and adjusting the seat height and back angle alone is not enough. In such a situation, a special adjustable chair will be a great solution!

On the Internet you can find many different options for every taste. From all the variety I chose the design I liked.

The design is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. She is very technologically advanced. It is important to take into account the ratio of the sizes of the elements, their relative position, the strength and stability of the entire structure. Of course, we couldn’t find any drawings either on the manufacturer’s website or on the Internet. Therefore, I had to develop the drawings myself. All the more interesting. The design took several days.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a plotter at my disposal to output images of the required size, and the program I worked with doesn’t know how to print large images in parts (or I simply couldn’t figure out how to do it). Therefore, we had to solve the problem in a roundabout way. Part drawings were saved as regular high-resolution photographs. Then, using the free PosteRazor program, they were converted into PDF documents containing drawings at the required scale and divided into separate A4 sheets.

Do I have the right to publish them? Am I violating someone's copyright? After all, I saw the chair on the Internet and someone was designing it! Let's figure it out.

This situation can be looked at from two points of view: ethical and legal. We will omit the ethical side of the issue, because a whole spectrum of well-reasoned opinions is possible here and most likely it will not be possible to arrive at the truth. But from a legal point of view, the search for truth is not so hopeless.

So, legally, a chair cannot be an object of copyright. In this case, according to the Civil Code, it can be either a utility model or an industrial design, which are recognized and protected only subject to state registration, on the basis of which the federal executive body for intellectual property issues a patent. There is no mention of any patents on the manufacturer’s website; most likely, no one patented this chair. To be honest, I don’t see what can be patented there - in comparison with analogues, there is no particular novelty or originality. Although the design is quite successful. And I didn’t find it on www.freepatent.ru. This means that I will not violate anyone’s patent rights for lack of any.

But drawings, according to the Administrative Code, are objects of copyright and are protected without any registration by default, as a type of work of fine art (computer programs, by the way, as literary works). The drawings I developed are not an exact copy of the original, which is not available to me, but are the result of intellectual work and reflect my vision of the design, the general features of which I saw in photographs. And as an author, I have every right to publish the results of my work. Unlike those who, without permission or a link to the source, post articles from my blog on their websites to attract visitors. You have to put copyright on the photos.

Well enough tediousness, it's time to get down to business!
Drawings of a growing chair can be downloaded from the link: https://yadi.sk/d/-nS9on3WmbxdF
If there is no detail in the archive, then its description will be further in the text.

We print them like a regular multi-page document on A4 sheets. At the same time, in the Acrobat Reader Print Wizard, it is important not to forget to specify the “Actual Size” scale. As a result, after gluing together the individual sheets, we get a drawing of the part on a scale of 1:1.

We cut out the drawing of the racks along the contour and paste it onto a sheet of plywood.

Plywood with a thickness of 22 mm was chosen as the material for the racks. We cut out the first part, departing 5 mm from the contour. In general, the quality and accuracy of the cut are not very important. If only there was some reserve left.

Now the resulting rough edges of the workpiece must be aligned exactly according to the drawing. I usually use the term “combing” to refer to this action. To do this, we press a flat strip against the workpiece along the line of the drawing and go along the edge with a copy cutter with an upper bearing. I processed the fillets by guiding the router with my hands, followed by adjusting the fillets with a grinding machine. You can spend more time on this preparation, because... it will serve as a template and the quality of the remaining racks depends on the quality of its processing.

Now, having a template, we mark and cut out the remaining blanks for the racks

Next, use self-tapping screws to secure the template to the workpieces. To tighten the screws, we make holes in the template in the places where there will be holes for attaching the seat and footrest. In this case, the head of the twisted self-tapping screw should not protrude from the template.

And using a copy cutter we align the edges of the workpiece according to the template.

Using a router inserted into the table, we make a groove in which the elements that secure the seat and footrest will move. For simplicity, I decided to call them runners. The groove depth is 10 mm, the groove width is 24 mm (it might be more convenient to make the groove width equal to the width of the existing plywood - 22 mm, but there was no such cutter in the workshop).

In the middle of the groove we make holes at equal distances. On the back side of the workpiece, where the drill exits, you must place a block so that the drill does not break out the bottom layer of veneer. It will be extremely difficult to close or disguise such a chip.

We do the same with the runners. We print the drawing in real size, cut it out and paste it onto a sheet of plywood. Next, we cut it out with a margin and “comb it” as we did with the stand template.

From the same sheet of 22 mm plywood, using a jigsaw, we roughly cut out future runners with a margin.

We use the same self-tapping screws to fix the template on the workpiece.

And on the milling table, using a copy cutter, we align the edges of the workpieces according to the template.

Using an edge moulder, we round the edges on all the resulting parts. Rounding radius 4.8 mm.

Next, a rail is cut out, with the help of which the runners engage with the groove on the racks. Rail height 20 mm, width 24 mm. Because I didn’t have either 20 mm or 24 mm plywood, so it was decided to make the slats from solid ash. This wood has excellent strength characteristics.

A corresponding groove was made in the runners on the milling table and slats were glued into it. At the same time, when you make a gutter, you must not forget that there are right and left runners.

After the glue has dried, the slats are sawn and ground flush with the runner body. There are also holes made in the runners for fixing them on the racks.

The runners also have gutters milled parallel to the floor. Gutter depth 10 mm, width 16 mm. These gutters will hold the seats and footrests. In the next photo you can see the finished runners.

We do the same with the seat and footrest templates: print the drawing, glue it onto plywood and cut out the blank.

In order to make even roundings, I used a thin strip of 5 mm plywood, passed between the screws that set the desired radius. It bends well and creates smooth transitions. How this is done can be seen in the photo:

As a result, we get two templates - footrests (left) and seats (right). Next, we work with them according to the already worked out scheme - we mark the blanks (we trace the templates with a pencil) and cut them out using a jigsaw with an indentation of 5 mm. 16 mm plywood was used for them, although 22 mm is also possible. We fix the template on the workpiece using self-tapping screws and work out the edges with a copy cutter. Having ready-made templates, the whole operation takes a few minutes. The small holes left on the finished parts from the screws can either be simply ignored due to their small size, or hidden using putty at the grinding stage. Personally, I took the first path. Don't forget to round the edges using an edge bevel cutter.

The template for the back was made “on the spot”. That's why there is no drawing of the backrest. I made the top and bottom edges according to the seat template. Back height 100 mm, Width 464 mm (depth of groove for backrest in racks 10 mm). After the template is ready, we make a couple of backs using it using a jigsaw and a copy cutter in a few minutes.

There are three bars in total in the chair. They are made from the same 22mm sheet. The dimensions of the crossbars fixing the runners are 399x50x22 mm. The lower crossbar (in the lower part near the floor) - 444x30x22 mm. Using a 10 mm straight cutter, we make grooves for countersunk furniture nuts - barrels.

Next, we make a groove for the backrest. The angle of the backrest was chosen in accordance with GOST 19301.2-94. "Children's preschool furniture..." The angle of the backrest is at least 5 degrees or more. My chair has an angle of 11 degrees - it seems to me a very comfortable angle.

We get a small pile of parts

Each chair is assembled using hex bolts and countersunk furniture barrel nuts. The bolts have dimensions 6x70 and 6x50, nuts - 10x20 and 10x12. The mounting kit is shown in the photo.

Ready. As they say, “it seems true.” During assembly, the quality of workmanship and fit of parts is checked, minor defects are eliminated, and “finishing with a file” is carried out. At this point, the sawing, drilling and milling stage is completed.

The sanding and painting stage begins. Now the chairs are completely disassembled and all parts are sanded before coating. I used 180 paper. In some places I had to fiddle with 80 and even 40.

Painting work is a separate discipline. A poor finish can ruin the entire job. Winter outside and lack of heating in the workshop made adjustments to the usual process. I had to paint the chair right at home. Therefore, neither a spray gun nor multi-component smelly varnishes can be used - only a non-smelling water-based varnish and a brush.

Because The chair was made from leftover plywood, some parts were dirty. Unfortunately, it was not possible to completely get rid of them by sanding, so I decided to cover one chair with a dark color - “mahogany”, the second - with glossy opaque milky enamel. Only the first one is ready so far. The second, dairy, is waiting for its time.

If, after applying the first layer of varnish, the color applied unevenly, the parts are covered with bald spots due to different degrees of absorption, the pile has risen and the surface has become like sandpaper, and in general it all looks terrible and you want to throw it all away, then you are on the right track. After the first layer has dried (after three or four hours), we take 180-grit sandpaper and sand all the raised pile. Next we put on a second layer, after drying the surface became a little better - there was no lint and the color went on more evenly, but it was still far from the picture on the label of the varnish can. Therefore, we matte the parts with the same sandpaper and apply a third layer. There's a fourth behind him. And so on. We continue until the result satisfies you. For this I needed five layers, which took two days.

The growing chair is ready. The cost of two chairs is a sheet of plywood 1500x1500 mm, 22 mm thick, fasteners for 50 rubles. and a can of varnish. This also includes electricity, depreciation of fixed assets, and worker’s wages.

I saw similar designs on Amazon for 250 US dollars - not a price, but some kind of tin. With us they are, of course, much cheaper.

Despite the dubious design, the design is quite thoughtful.
This is not just a children's chair, it is more like office furniture for a schoolchild. Because it is schoolchildren who spend many hours first doing lessons and then playing computer games, and for them the correct comfortable posture is important for posture, less fatigue and preservation of vision. At the same time, schoolchildren are also actively growing.

For greater comfort, you can make removable soft pads for the seat and back. As an option. But I don’t see any particular need - usually school furniture without pillows. Armrests are also not particularly necessary, because when writing or working on the keyboard, the elbows should rest freely on the table so as not to cause tension in the shoulders. All these calculations are described in a whole variety of GOSTs and the growing chair corresponds to them. Overall, I'm pleased with the result.

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A small wooden stool will find a use in every home. Children run around with great joy in these chairs. Sitting on such a stool is convenient for peeling potatoes and performing other “sedentary” work. However, not many people decide to buy a small stool due to the fact that there is always a more important waste of financial resources. But almost everyone can make a small wooden chair with their own hands. To make it you will need a jigsaw and a little imagination.

Preparation.
Manufacturing of parts, grinding.

Painting.

Preparation.
Preparing the material and necessary tools plays an important role and saves time in the future. To make a stool we will need:
- hewn board measuring 800x200x25 mm (dimensions are approximate, you can proceed from what is available),
- 8 shiny screws (50-60 mm),
- sandpaper,
- jigsaw,
- screwdriver or screwdriver,
- paint and varnish on wood,
- tape measure, pencil and corner.

You need to start by marking the board. First of all, using a corner, a pencil and a tape measure, we mark a rectangular section without knots, 32-33 cm long. This will be the upper part of our high chair. Next, we mark two segments of 23 cm each - these will be the sides. Now it is advisable to give them some kind of curly pattern. You can use any objects that have a circle for this, simply outlining them with a pencil. But, this method involves an irrational waste of time. After all, you will have to mark the center and other dimensions in each side. Therefore, for the sides it is better to use a pattern pre-cut from thick cardboard or other material. It will allow you to easily and quickly mark a large number of sides. Just attach the pattern and trace it with a pencil.

By the way, the use of a curly pattern on the side not only gives them a beautiful look, but also allows you to trim off all unwanted knots.
And immediately mark the jumper. It should be trapezoidal in shape and have sides of 230 and 220 mm. The width of the jumper is not important - from 80 to 120 mm.

So, has a marked board.

Important! You should not draw too thick lines - this affects the evenness of the trim. And the pencil is not so easy to erase.

Using a jigsaw we cut out all our parts. Evenness is important here. To trim the cut evenly, it is better to guide the tool blade not along the line, but to the side of it.

You can learn to cut evenly using unnecessary waste. So, let's cut out all the details.

This will give the product not only a beautiful look, but will also hide all possible irregularities in the cutting.
Next, we carefully sand all these parts with fine sandpaper. It is most rational to carry out this procedure at this stage, since a number of inconveniences may arise when grinding the finished structure. It is convenient to sand smooth surfaces by putting sandpaper on a wooden block, or using a manual machine for grouting putty. The main thing is quality, since after painting all imperfections will appear and be visible.
This is what sanded and unpolished sides look like.

So, it has the same parts, but ready for assembly.

It is advisable to carry out the assembly in this order:
- connect the sides with the jumper (1 screw on each side);
- place this structure on a flat surface and screw on the top cover (2 screws on each side);
- We strengthen the connection of the sides with the jumper (1 more screw each).

The chair is assembled! We check it again on a flat plane. If the stool is a little wobbly, then we tighten the legs until the product is completely stable.

Painting.
Before painting, we check the product again for defects, and if necessary, erase them and pencil residues. Using a brush, we clean the stool from wood dust and begin painting.
Here “there is no comrade to taste and color”! You can leave the natural color of the wood by painting it with clear varnish. You can give the product a certain color using a variety of wood paints, which are abundant in all hardware stores. In principle, one coat is enough for painting. But, if, after the first layer has completely dried, the surfaces are lightly sanded again with fine sandpaper and a new layer of varnish is applied, the shine of the product will noticeably increase.
Important! Poorly sanded ends absorb more paint and become darker.

This is what the finished chair looks like, varnished.

If you decide to test your own skills in carpentry and furniture, you can start with small and completely uncomplicated objects, such as a shelf, drawer or stool. But if you already have at least a little experience in this matter, then you can safely start making a reliable and high-quality chair from plywood with your own hands. This piece of furniture is very popular and therefore there is always a place for it in an apartment or in the courtyard of a country house. And if you are a lover of outdoor activities, you should definitely find out how you can quickly and easily, and most importantly inexpensively, make a folding chair from plywood.

You may ask, why bother making furniture yourself when there is a huge range of ready-made furniture on sale? The fact is that this process is quite interesting and exciting. Making your own furniture, even something as simple as a folding chair, will not only save your family budget, but also bring something special and unique to the interior of your home.

Plywood is several sheets of wood glued together using a perpendicular method, which achieves high strength of the material. The thickness of plywood can reach from seven to twenty-five millimeters. Thanks to this range, the scope of application of plywood is very diverse. The thinner one is used as a material for upholstering walls, and the widest one is used for covering floors or constructing partitions.

For the production of furniture, plywood of medium thickness is used - about 10-15 centimeters, which allows you to achieve the necessary strength, as well as elasticity to give the sheets additional bends when making decorative elements of a stool or other pieces of furniture.

At first glance, making plywood furniture may seem like a rather complicated task to some. However, this is absolutely not true. You will, of course, need certain skills in working with tools, but without much professional training.

Another argument in favor of making furniture from plywood yourself is that there is no need to have a professional workshop with a huge number of tools and CNC coordinate milling machines. The most common household tools available in the arsenal of almost every man are quite suitable here. But even if you still have to buy some of the tools, these costs are nothing compared to buying ready-made furniture.

If you are new to home furniture making, then start with the simplest designs. An excellent option for such cases would be plywood chairs. And today we will look at two examples of making plywood furniture - a folding chair and a rocking chair with your own hands.

Simplicity, convenience and comfort - do-it-yourself folding furniture

It is worth noting that a beautiful plywood chair can perform not only a decorative function, but also a practical one. Especially when we are talking about folding chairs, which, due to their compactness and ease of assembly, will be useful for any summer resident or fisherman. The design of folding plywood furniture we offer is quite simple and allows you to make a chair with your own hands quite quickly and with minimal financial costs.

As the fitter Mechnikov said in the well-known film, when the experienced swindler Ostap Bender is trying to get his goods as quickly as possible - “Money in the morning, chairs in the evening!” So in our case - having spent very little money in the morning, by the evening you can get a comfortable plywood chair with an unusual design.

Tools and materials

Tools for working with plywood

To create one chair from plywood you will need:

• a sheet of moisture-resistant 20 mm plywood measuring 60 by 90 cm;
• construction corner;
• scissors;
• paper;
• Sander;
• marker;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill;
• fastening hinges or bolts with sleeves;
• varnish for woodworking;
• drawing of a folding chair with a photo, which can be easily found online and selected to suit your taste.

Tip: Birch wood is an ideal material with high strength. It can be easily processed, which allows you to create stylish decorative furniture elements. This type of bent plywood is widely used in the production of school chairs, kitchen furniture, etc.

Manufacturing stages

Folding chair Drawing of a folding chair made of plywood Drawing of a folding chair made of plywood, option 2

1. The drawing of a chair selected from a photo on the Internet must be transferred to cardboard or thick paper, and then cut out the templates of the parts.
2. Attach the cardboard blanks to a sheet of plywood and trace with a pencil or marker.
3. Using a jigsaw, cut out the chair parts along the pre-marked lines.
4. The resulting workpieces should be carefully sanded using a machine or special fine sandpaper. Particular attention must be paid to the cut lines.
5. Using a drill, drill holes for mounting the hinges.
6. Lay out all the elements of the folding chair on a smooth surface according to the diagram and assemble them together.
7. If desired, the finished chair can be opened with varnish and veneer glued to the ends.

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Ready-made folding chairs

In the same way, you can make a table and chairs for school or home, which you can not only take with you to nature, but also install on the veranda, in the garden or dining room, decorating the interior of a country house. Show a little imagination and we are sure that your design solutions will be appreciated not only by family members, but also by guests at home.

Plywood chair

The long-awaited evening or day off is approaching, when you want to take a break from the hustle and bustle of everyday work, sitting comfortably in your favorite chair. After all, you must agree that one of the important components of a comfortable pastime is comfortable furniture. A rocking chair made of plywood will allow you to quickly relieve tension from your entire body after a busy day at work, relax with a book in your hands, or, rocking almost silently, indulge in pleasant memories of the events of the past day.

And what could be better than independent production of comfortable furniture that would fully meet your individual needs? Some people think that making a chair or armchair from bent plywood is a rather complicated process. Many people don’t even know where or how to start.

In fact, you don’t need to be a professional furniture maker or designer in order to build something special and beautiful. Today in RuNet you can find quite a lot of ideas with photos and videos that will help you choose exactly what you like most and will best fit into the interior of your room. Having figured out with our help what needs to be done and in what order, you will easily cope with this task.

To make a rocking chair you will need:

1. Canvas with a thickness of 15 millimeters or more for load-bearing structures, such as side supports, racks, etc.
2. A sheet of bent plywood 10 mm thick, from which you can easily make any curved part, for example, a backrest strip or other decorative element.
3. Graph paper.
4. Marker.
5. Jigsaw for cutting parts from plywood.
6. Sander.
7. Wood glue.
8. Antiseptic for FC treatment.
9. Self-tapping screws.

Stages of making a chair

1. Drawing 2. Cutting out the parts 3. Assembling the seat
4. Attach the back 5. Attach the armrests The chair is ready

1. We find online drawings of the parts of the furniture we need to make with our own hands. Please note that you should choose models whose design has the smallest number of connection points - despite the fact that plywood with laminated sheets is quite strong, it is still more susceptible to destruction from dynamic loads compared to solid wood.
2. We transfer the diagram of the rocking chair onto a format sheet with exact adherence to scale.
3. We place the resulting paper patterns on plywood and make precise markings on it in strict accordance with the blanks.
4. Using a jigsaw, we cut the structural elements made of plywood as accurately as possible.
5. Using a sander, we process the surfaces of the structural parts of the rocking chair, rounding their edges and removing small fractions of wood from the plywood.
6. We carry out antiseptic treatment of plywood sheets.
7. The structure is assembled in accordance with the diagram of the selected drawing. First, you need to glue the necessary structural elements together and then strengthen them using self-tapping screws.
8. The finishing of the rocking chair is done at the discretion of the craftsman. You can give preference to a seat covered with foam rubber or fabric, or simply varnish the chair. Much will depend on where your new furniture will be located.
9. For greater reliability, special springs should be installed on the supporting parts of the rocking chair.

With this our chair is ready. If necessary, you can improve the drawings of standard models, modify them to suit your parameters or dimensions.

To make the baby’s life more comfortable, many parents purchase special furniture for all life situations. For example, a children's high chair is used to decorate a play area, a workplace, and is a necessary piece of children's furniture that is also used for feeding the baby. The cost of such a device is quite high, and the choice among materials and models is even greater. But there is a solution to this situation - a children's chair made of plywood or boards. The material, tools and fasteners for making this product are quite accessible - they can be found in any hardware store or even at home. Particular attention should be paid to this question: how to make a highchair with your own hands?

The easiest way to build a wooden chair. This option has many advantages that relate specifically to the type of material:

• The material is easy to process
• The cost of wood is not that high
• The aesthetic appearance of a product made from this material is initially acceptable without additional coloring or decoration
• The wood product is completely environmentally friendly

Let's consider what components and consumables you need to make a children's wooden highchair with your own hands. In addition to the main material, you will need additional elements, without the use of which a high-quality product simply cannot be made:

• Fastening of parts can be done using furniture glue, carpentry nails or small self-tapping screws
• Sometimes metal corners are used to strengthen the structure
• Often the seat and back are upholstered with foam rubber, which is covered with fabric
• To hide the places where parts are fastened using self-tapping screws, you need to buy special plastic covers
• There are also rubber and plastic pads for the legs to prevent them from scratching the flooring.

For processing, you may need wood stain or varnish. Sometimes a wooden chair is painted with eco-friendly paint. Such measures are not necessary, the main thing is that the baby does not get hurt due to a poorly treated surface of the product.

What parts need to be made

First, sketches and drawings are prepared, regardless of whether the chair for the child will be made of plywood, chipboard or wooden boards. Only then, using a jigsaw, are the parts cut out from which the product itself will be created. There are not so many of them, but without one of them, the made chair will not be so strong:

• Required to have top, bottom, front and side bars
• Four legs
• Middle crossbar
• Seat surface

If one of the parts is missing, the product will not be reliable and will not last long or will be completely unusable. You can think over your own option for arranging the chair. The same presence of parts is required to construct a high chair. A distinctive feature of this product is that the chair can be combined with a table, that is, it turns out to be transformable furniture.

Plywood construction

A children's high chair made of plywood is the most affordable material. In addition, it is much easier to make a plywood chair with your own hands, even if the master is new to this business. The main thing is to clearly formulate a sequence of actions and carry out preparatory measures:

• At the very beginning, it is important to prepare drawings and connection diagrams. With their help, the type of future product, as well as the dimensions, are determined.
• It is also important for a highchair to ensure comfort of use, so you need to determine the possibilities for its further use.
• First, the base is made, that is, the stool, and then all other parts are attached to it.
• You should cut plywood very carefully, as it tends to tear or break. At the same time, it is not enough to simply cut out the parts - their edges need to be properly processed.
• Any small chair requires specific handling measures so that the child does not get hurt during use.

A constructed chair can be considered ready only when all stages are fully completed. The finished product is processed according to all requirements, strength and reliability are tested. Additional finishing may be present, especially if it is a high chair.

In any case, a self-made chair made of wood, as well as its derivative materials, can be further modernized and remodeled. The cost of such a product will be much lower than in the store. You can choose the design yourself, using all kinds of materials for decoration. Such a product will last for many years, while parents will not worry about the health of the baby’s posture, and the child himself will have his own place to study.