Construction of floors between floors: important aspects. How to make a floor in the attic using floor beams with your own hands Insulating the ceiling between the first floor and the attic

Insulating the attic from the inside has its own characteristics, this is due to the specifics of the room. An attic space with a complex structure and microclimate requires a competent approach to organizing a thermal insulation layer in order to avoid cold bridges, the appearance of condensation and wetting of the insulation, as a result, fungi, mold, and freezing.

In the article we will provide step-by-step instructions on how to properly insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands, we will analyze what materials are best to use, and how to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

Insulation scheme for the attic floor

General rules - how to insulate an attic floor

Insulating the attic floor is a whole set of measures to ensure that the room is comfortable for living: it does not heat up in the summer and does not get cold in the winter, and the relative humidity does not exceed the norm. Each part of the attic floor: floor, ceiling, slopes, fronts, is insulated using its own technology. It is important to follow a few basic rules here:

• The thickness of the insulation for the attic is 100-200 mm, which directly depends on the type of thermal insulation, the climate in the region and the choice of materials for the load-bearing structures of the attic floor. It is better to put 2 layers of 100 mm each. It is advisable to choose an environmentally friendly, lightweight, non-flammable one.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of thermal insulation, protects against condensation and precipitation, and does not allow moisture to enter the insulation from the roof side. This is a very important stage in the insulation of the attic floor, which ensures the reliability and long service life of the thermal insulation, otherwise the accumulation of moisture inside the materials will lead to their destruction and freezing of the room. For the attic floor, the following types of waterproofing films are used: superdiffusion breathable, diffusion, anti-condensation.
• Vapor barrier in the insulation of the attic floor ensures good air exchange, ventilation of the cake, and prevents the penetration of water vapor from the room into the materials.

We offer useful tips on how to insulate an attic with your own hands; video instructions will help you avoid mistakes when thermally insulating the floor under the roof.

Detailed insulation technology

Insulating an attic from the inside with your own hands takes place in several stages: floor, ceiling, if there is one, slopes, fronts. The thermal insulation of each structural element of the attic floor has its own technological features; then we will look in detail at the nuances of insulation.

The photo shows an example of how to properly insulate an attic floor

Insulation of the attic floor

The floor on the attic floor is essentially an interfloor ceiling separating the lower rooms from the roof. Accordingly, here are the main requirements for thermal insulation materials: lightweight, but with effective heat conservation, vapor permeable, with good sound insulation.

Floor insulation depends on the design features of the ceiling. If it is a concrete slab, it is advisable to organize a heated floor and perform a screed. Don't forget to stick damper tape around the perimeter to allow natural expansion of the materials. If the screed is more than 20 mm, it must be reinforced.

But more often, logs are installed here, so floor insulation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• treat the subfloor with antiseptics, 2 times;
• we install waterproofing, a thick polyethylene film is suitable, roofing felt and sometimes bitumen mastic, especially at the wall/floor interface, overlapping joints of 100-150 mm, it is recommended to glue with tape or weld with a soldering iron;
• we lay a vapor barrier membrane, glassine and isospan are relevant here, we attach it to the joists with a stapler, the joints overlap;
• We put insulation between the logs: sheet insulation of your choice, mineral wool, sawdust, loose expanded clay, sprayed polyurethane foam, etc.
• cover the insulation with a top vapor barrier layer;
• we lay the subfloor: screed or wooden covering, which is best done with an air gap - a sheathing of bars is placed perpendicularly on the joists, treatment with antiseptics and fire-fighting agents is required;
• floor finishing.

Insulation of the floor along the joists on the attic floor

Ceiling insulation

It is extremely rare to have a ceiling in an attic floor, but if you are faced with just such a design option, then it also needs to be insulated. To begin with, a vapor barrier film is stretched at a height of 150-250 mm higher than you plan to make the ceiling. Next, it is necessary to assemble a sheathing from bars or a galvanized metal profile, the optimal distance between the longitudinal profile is 500-600 mm, while the transverse one is attached every 400-500 mm. If there are cross beams under the ceiling on the attic floor, then the insulation material can be placed on them.

Insulation is placed inside the sheathing; soft slabs that are light in weight, for example, mineral wool, are relevant here. It must be pushed between the sheathing, leveled, and the joints between the slabs adjusted tightly. A vapor barrier membrane is placed on top of the frame, which will protect the insulation from moisture from the room. After which the ceiling is hemmed with sheet material: plasterboard, OSB, chipboard, plywood or lining, blockhouse, timber, the choice depends on the style of the room.

Lathing of the ceiling, slope and gable of the attic floor for subsequent insulation

How best to insulate the walls of the floor under the roof

The walls of the attic floor can be divided into side walls (a small flat area that turns into a roof slope) and gables - end load-bearing structures. The order of the thermal insulation layers does not change here, but the insulation has its own installation features. At the first stage, waterproofing is filled in; it is better to fasten it using bars 25-50 mm thick in order to leave a technological gap between the walls (roof) and the insulation.

Sheets of insulation are laid on top of the bars so that the attic is not cold; it is recommended to use 2 layers of thermal insulation, each 100 mm thick. It is advisable to insulate floor walls using a combined method. The first row of insulation is placed tightly between the rafters or gable beams. Cut the sheets to size and push them in.

We also leave a ventilation gap between the layers of insulation; if the rafters are thinner, then additional bars are placed on them, and then we put a second layer on them. The sheets should fit tightly to each other; it is advisable to seal the gaps on top with tape. Next, we cover everything with a vapor barrier; for insulating the walls of the attic floor, a foil membrane is optimal, with the metallized side facing the room. We nail it with a stapler, seal the joints and you can sheathe the attic floor with the finishing touches.

Insulation of the gable of the attic floor

Which insulation to choose for the attic

If you choose which insulation is best for an attic, then you need to provide several criteria at once: resistance to physical, mechanical and chemical influences, environmental friendliness, fire safety, weight of the material, heat capacity, installation method and the financial side of the issue. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of several popular materials for insulating the attic floor.

Materials for insulating the floor under a sloping roof

Do-it-yourself attic insulation, video, what are the advantages of thermal insulation with rockwool material.

Styrofoam

Insulating an attic with polystyrene foam is inexpensive and easy to install, which is why the material is very popular for thermal insulation. Disadvantages include low vapor permeability and flammability. Over time, when the rafter system dries out, the insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam is reduced to nothing; reviews indicate that gaps appear between the sheets and beams, and as a result, drafts.

Watch the video on how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam; the video demonstrates the step-by-step process of installing thermal insulation.

Polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is a more advanced material compared to polystyrene foam, the boards are easy to work with, are not afraid of moisture and rodents, the joints between the sheets are very tight, which avoids cold bridges. But extruded polystyrene foam, like polystyrene foam, is deformed when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, and is flammable, so it is not recommended to insulate the attic floors of a wooden house.

The video explains in detail how to insulate an attic; the video will help you perform thermal insulation correctly.

PPU

If you ask specialists what is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside, many of them will recommend spraying polyurethane foam. Of course, you can’t do this without special technology and equipment, but the thermal insulation is strong, durable, and without joints. This is a kind of thermos that provides a comfortable indoor microclimate. Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam, reviews of the physical and mechanical properties of which are the best, also has significant drawbacks; such a cake is afraid of esters and high-temperature acids.

Watch the work of specialists on how to insulate an attic; the video demonstrates in detail the spraying method.

Mineral wool

Insulation of the attic floor with stone (basalt) mineral wool meets all standards of proper thermal insulation. Mineral wool is moisture resistant, non-flammable, and has high sound insulation characteristics, which is especially important if the roof is made of a “noisy” material. The material is elastic, easy to install, expands, fills voids between beams and holds well even on sloped areas.

Ecowool

Ecowool is cellulose processed in a special way, it is environmentally friendly, has high heat and sound insulation, is vapor permeable, resistant to dampness, fireproof, it does not harbor harmful microorganisms - an ideal option for insulating the attic floor. The material is crushed and looks like flakes, which are applied to the surface using special equipment, which makes it difficult to install it yourself. Insulating the attic with ecowool is a seamless technology that allows you to create high-quality thermal insulation and maintain a comfortable temperature even in an unheated attic floor.

Of course, 100-200 mm of insulation is the recommended layer thickness. The real one may differ; it is recommended to do the calculation for each region and directly depends on the type of load-bearing walls and the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Proper insulation significantly reduces energy costs when heating and air conditioning a home.

The presence of an attic in the house opens up new opportunities for the owners. Firstly, it helps to give a stylish appearance to the building as a whole, and secondly, it rationalizes and increases the living space. Provided all rules are followed, the attic can be used as a full-fledged residential floor. When constructing an attic, special attention should be paid to the arrangement of the floor. In order for the floor of the second floor to meet state standards, to be durable and reliable, it is necessary to follow the established rules during construction activities.

Before you begin work on creating a high-quality and warm floor in the superstructure, you should know about the main features of such a room:

• can have any geometry, it all depends on the choice of roof type. These can be broken, symmetrical or asymmetrical designs. The location of the under-roof space can be along the entire length, or also located on one side of the longitudinal axis.
• The location of the attic floor can extend over the entire quadrature of the building or over any part of it. If the projection is limited, then such a room falls on the removal of the console.
• The planned project depends on several factors. The main parameter is the architecture of the entire structure and the load-bearing capacity of the walls of the house.

Advice! To install the floor, ceiling and walls on the attic floor, experts recommend choosing relatively light building materials so as not to burden the structure of the entire house.

• As a rule, the attic area is large, so it is important to avoid heat loss during the arrangement. Despite the fact that the lower plane is not in contact with the external environment, the area needs high-quality thermal insulation.

The attic can have any configuration, which opens up new opportunities for interesting design projects. In addition to the aspect of rationalization and increasing full-fledged living space, the attic floor is economical. Practice shows that the construction of an attic is cheaper than the construction of a full floor of the same area. In addition to functional advantages, one cannot fail to mention aesthetics. Attics give the entire building a more expressive and unusual look. Understanding the features of constructing an attic floor in a private house, during planning you can take into account all the important points when arranging the floor in order to avoid mistakes and discomfort in the future. Particular attention should be paid to floor insulation.

Arrangement of the lower plane

Due to the design features of the attic, when arranging the floor, you need to remember that to climb to the second floor you will need to equip a hatch, which will subsequently connect to the stairs. To do this, you need to choose its location and leave enough space for its device. The algorithm for arranging the lower plane of the attic floor is as follows:

1. We carry out cleaning to prepare the base. To do this, we remove debris, tools and foreign objects from the surface.
2. The next step is to check the strength of the floors. What is it for? It is the floors that bear the main operational load, so making sure of their strength and reliability is extremely important. We carefully examine the beams for integrity and absence of rotting.
3. We prepare wooden logs. Their installation is a fundamental stage; the work depends on several factors. The choice of lag section and the distance between them during installation depends on the pitch of the floors, as well as the thickness of the board. The length of the logs must correspond to the dimensions of the roof space.
4. Installation of the outer support strips. Installation and fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. The planks are fixed directly to the pediment or side partitions. The installation principle is determined by the location of the roof structure.
5. It is necessary to place a strong crossbar along the edge of the proposed hatch. To ensure reliable fastening, you can use steel corners.
6. After the final determination of the location of the hatch for the entrance to the attic floor, the remaining logs are installed, taking into account the design features. In this case, the wooden crossbars should be located in the same plane.

It must be remembered that the floor in the attic is the ceiling for the lower floor in the house. Therefore, the reliability of the floors and high-quality arrangement will be the key to comfort and safety for all household members. At this stage, the preparatory work for arranging the floor has been completed. You can move on to an equally important part of the work - insulation.

Choice of insulation

When choosing a gasket for the floor on the attic floor, you need to avoid making the structure heavier. There are many materials for insulating buildings on the market. Which one is optimal for, should be understood in detail. We remember that the ceiling of the lower floor is also the basis for the attic. Therefore, heavy insulation materials should be avoided, as they place excessive stress on ceiling beams and ceilings. Experts recommend the following insulation materials:

1. Polystyrene foam is the simplest way to insulate a floor. Advantages:

• affordability;
• excellent thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistance and biological stability;
• ease of installation.

In addition to the advantages of using polystyrene foam as insulation for floors in attics, there are also disadvantages. The material has low vapor permeability, little strength, and is also a fertile environment for rodents.

1. Extruded polystyrene. A representative of the modern generation of floor insulation, which has the following advantages:

• high levels of moisture resistance;
• low thermal conductivity threshold;
• groove fastening system.

The disadvantages include the high cost of the material and low vapor permeability.

1. Mineral wool is the best choice for insulating floors in the attic. Pros of use:

• the material is fireproof;
• has low thermal conductivity;
• moisture resistant;
• environmentally friendly for households.

The disadvantages include the high cost and the presence of joints during installation. The cracks and joints that may result from installation must be sealed with special mastics.

1. Expanded clay is one of the most effective materials for floor insulation. This insulation is a budget option with good characteristics. Pros:

• lightness;
• maximum filling of voids;
• environmental Safety.

Important! When choosing expanded clay for floor insulation in an apartment or semi-attic, you need to take into account its shrinkage, the coefficient is 1.15.

Glass wool is considered a classic insulation material. But, along with being safer, its characteristics are not ideal. When choosing floor insulation, you need to proceed not only from financial capabilities, but also from the aspect of durability. As they say, the miser pays twice! Therefore, savings in measures to insulate the attic floor are not appropriate.

Insulating the floor in the attic

Arrangement of the floor in the superstructure is an important step. During the process, it is necessary to eliminate any errors that could lead to negative consequences. As a result of improper installation, the ceiling of the lower floor of the house may be damaged. The algorithm for floor insulation includes several stages:

1. Creation of a high-quality vapor barrier layer. To do this, the entire prepared surface is covered with a special film. This is necessary in order to avoid the accumulation of condensation from the lower floor. When laying the covering, you need to make an overlap of 15-20 centimeters.
2. Installation of insulation. Insulation is placed in the gaps between the joists. It is important to monitor the formation of gaps between the plates, so it is recommended to make an overlap of 2 centimeters.
3. The next layer of vapor barrier film is placed on top of the insulation. In this case, installation is carried out on a flat surface, and the material is secured to the joists with staples or nails.
4. The sheathing is being prepared for laying the floor boards.
5. Wooden flooring is laid on top of the crossbars. You can use veneer or edged boards. The joints between the planks are fastened with staples, screws or nails. This type of flooring is called a subfloor.
6. The floor is being finished.

When using wood in work, attention should be paid to antiseptic and fire protection treatment. This will help prevent rotting as a result of moisture and will increase the level of fire safety in the room.

Important! It is necessary to create an air gap of 50 millimeters between the layers of hydro- and vapor barrier. This will help increase the service life of the attic floor!

When choosing materials for flooring, preference should be given to lightweight, energy-saving, vapor-proof and sound-proofing materials.

Installation of floors on the second floor.

There are several basic rules for creating a high-quality, durable and reliable floor on the attic floor:

• The main focus is on sealing the entire structure. To do this, all joints, corners or crevices are treated with sealant lubricants or insulating tape.
• When installing a self-leveling floor, the surface is pre-primed. For a perfectly flat floor, a self-leveling mixture is used, diluted with water in the correct proportion. On such a floor you can lay tiles, carpet, laminate or any other decorative covering.
• Do not leave the space between the joists empty. If voids are not filled, the floor can resonate with a loud, booming sound. To fill the space, you can use loose insulation, expanded polystyrene granules or expanded clay chips. This technique helps to perform sound insulation and insulation at the same time.
• It is better to do floor insulation using a two-layer method. In this case, ligation of seams and beams with a thickness of at least 150 millimeters is performed.

The arrangement of the floor depends on what material the floors in the house are made of. These can be wooden beams or reinforced concrete floors. When installing a floor, you should pay attention not only to the choice of quality materials, but also to safety precautions. Having learned all the details and the step-by-step algorithm of actions, you can do all the work with your own hands no less efficiently than experienced professionals will do.

Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling.

The attic floor of a private house made of wood must have good thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics. If the cottage is one-story, then this is quite simple to achieve. Interfloor insulation and soundproofing of floors in a two-story building or in a house with an attic is a much more difficult task. The floor will still have to be laid on top of the wooden beams. In this case, the choice of materials is reduced, and the requirements for them increase.

Features of interfloor sound insulation and insulation of a cottage

Flooring on wooden beams is the easiest and fastest way to install an attic floor in a private home. It is enough to mount the beam with a certain step, lay heat and sound insulating material in the resulting gaps and cover everything with finishing. Everything is quite simple; even a novice master can handle the installation.

Thermal insulation of interfloor and attic floors in a wooden house is a cake made of insulation and vapor barrier

If the ceiling beams are simply sheathed with wood, then such a ceiling will not dampen sounds and retain heat. A wooden cottage cannot do without high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling structure. If there is an attic on top, then when choosing a material, the main attention should be paid to its thermal insulation properties.

However, in the case of insulation of the interfloor floor between the first and second or attic floors, the soundproofing characteristics of the “insulator” are more important. You have to fight the spread of unnecessary sounds in any residential building, but the insulating layer can be reduced.

If the house has heated rooms not only on the ground floor, then a high-quality heat insulator in the ceiling will prevent heat from rising to the upper rooms due to convection. As a result, maintaining a comfortable microclimate throughout the cottage will be much easier.

Important! Thermal and sound insulation of the interfloor ceiling in a wooden house is done to reduce air convection and the spread of noise between floors.

The insulation between wooden beams must be reliably protected from moisture at the top and bottom

When insulating between floors, not only the choice of heat and sound insulating materials is important, but also the design of the cake made from them. Ideally, from bottom to top from the first floor, it should consist of several layers:

• heat reflective;
• vapor barrier;
• insulating and soundproofing between beams;
• waterproofing.

The subfloor and the finishing coating on the second floor are laid on top of the heat and sound insulating cake. In this case, you will still need to leave gaps for ventilation so that the insulation does not accumulate moisture.

Classification of noise and methods to combat its spread

To effectively reduce the volume of sound passing through ceilings, you should clearly understand what you have to fight with. In some cases, laying soundproofing material is sufficient, while in others it will be necessary to make changes to the structure of the ceiling structure.

According to standards in residential premises, a comfortable noise level is considered to be within 40 dB, and harmful to hearing - more than 80 dB

Sound pressure levels of various sound sources

Types of noise

All noises spreading throughout the cottage are divided into two types:

1. Airborne - the sounds of operating household appliances and loud people talking.
2. Impact – formed as a result of impact on building structures (driving nails, drilling, falling objects onto the floor).

There are two types of noise around us

In addition, there are also structural noises that are formed as a result of a combination of the first two types or the conversion of sound waves from one type to another. Moreover, as a result of the fight against impact and airborne noise, structural sounds are automatically eliminated.

Important! If there are through gaps in the interfloor ceiling, then the soundproofing material laid between the wooden beams will be of little use. Noise penetrates through the holes along with the air.

Ways to combat airborne noise

To overcome airborne noise, the interfloor ceiling must be turned into a multilayer structure made of hard and soft building materials. For the former, you can use plasterboard or particle boards, and for the latter, mineral wool, felt, fiberglass or fiberboard.

Some of the airborne noise should be reflected back into the room by the hard surface, and some should be absorbed by the soundproofing material inside the cake

Ways to combat impact noise

With percussion sounds everything is somewhat more complicated. It is necessary to dampen the energy of vibrations and shocks that are generated when walking on the floor of the second floor and objects falling on it. To do this, elastic pads made of rubber or cork are placed on wooden beams, and the rough floor covering is installed on them.

Advice! You can save a little on rubber gaskets by installing a “floating floor”. In this case, ordinary insulation is laid on the beams, and two layers of chipboard or plywood are laid on top of it without fastening to the joists.

Airborne and impact noise insulation index

When choosing a material for soundproofing and insulating the interfloor ceiling in a wooden house, its technical characteristics should look at the airborne noise insulation index R W in decibels. It indicates how many dB will be absorbed and directly depends on the thickness of the laid layer. According to the standards, to create comfortable conditions, R W of interfloor thermal insulation must be at least 50 dB. These are speech sounds of medium volume, which the cottage's ceiling must completely dampen.

For impact noise, the indicator L NW is used to assess sound insulation. However, it is calculated using special formulas and methods. Only a competent specialist can do this as part of the preparation of the building project. The higher R W and lower L NW, the better the sound insulation performance of the floor between the first and second floors.

Which heat and sound insulating material is better to use?

The building materials market offers a fairly wide range of insulation materials for interfloor ceilings with good sound insulation performance. The option can be found either the cheapest or the most expensive, environmentally friendly or the warmest.

Installation of a mineral wool insulated beam interfloor structure of a cottage

You can insulate the floor of the first floor using wooden beams using:

• mineral wool (basalt or glass);
• vibration damping materials based on synthetic rubber;
• glass canvas with non-woven fiber as the outer layer;
• fiberboard boards;
• extruded polystyrene foam (EPS);
• silica fiber mats;
• isolon (foamed polyethylene with foil);
• construction felt;
• ecowool made from cellulose.

In addition, there are ZIPS on sale - sandwich panels made of two gypsum boards and insulation between them.

Advice! The cheapest is mineral wool, but the particles of glass or basalt from which it is made are harmful to health. It is better to take ready-made mats made of non-woven canvas with mineral wool inside. The insulation from them will definitely not crumble.

Izolon is ideal for installation from the ground floor with the foil down. It perfectly reflects thermal energy, has good sound insulation performance for impact noise and is an excellent waterproofer. But it alone will not be enough on the floors; something else will have to be laid between the beams.

EPPS provides good sound insulation and insulation for interfloor slabs, but in terms of environmental friendliness it is much inferior to almost all other options. Plus it is flammable, like felt or ecowool. Medium and low density fiberboard slabs have good heat and sound insulation characteristics. However, they have considerable weight, which can lead to overloading of the beam floor.

Mineral wool has good sound absorption and thermal insulation. The fibers inside it are located at different angles to each other in a chaotic manner. On the one hand, they cushion and absorb sound vibrations, and on the other, the air between them is an excellent heat insulator.

The most affordable and popular option for insulating floors in a cottage is a cake made from mineral wool and vapor barrier film

The final choice of insulation for interfloor beams depends on the personal preferences of the owner of a wooden house. All of the listed materials are suitable, you just need to choose the right thickness to ensure the required heat and sound insulation.

Warm floating floor technology

1. Before insulation, the entire wooden beam of the interfloor ceiling should be coated with an antiseptic.
2. Then a rough flooring of boards 25–30 mm thick is placed between the beams, and a vapor barrier film is laid overlapping on top of them, extending 10–15 cm onto the walls.
3. After attaching the vapor barrier layer, insulation is laid on it. In this case, the heat-insulating material is mounted both between the beams and on top of them. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges and increase sound insulation.
4. The top of the insulation is again covered with a layer of vapor barrier.

Six steps for installing mineral wool in the interfloor ceiling on wooden beams

The subfloor can be made from 30 mm boards. But it is much better to lay two layers of chipboard so that the joints of the wood boards are covered. The result should be a coating that does not have a direct connection with the interfloor beams. It will lie in place due to its own weight, and due to the absence of a rigid tie with the beam, it will not allow the transmission of impact noise.

As a finishing coating you can use:

• linoleum;
• carpet;
• laminate;
• parquet.

Carpet and pile materials will only increase the heat and sound insulation properties of the resulting cake. If linoleum is chosen for laying the interfloor flooring on the floor, then its base should be foam. The felt backing reduces airborne sound insulation.

The floating subfloor and walls should not be rigidly connected. It is necessary to leave a small gap of a couple of millimeters around the perimeter to fill with damping inserts made of rubber or porous polyethylene. Skirting boards need to be attached only to the floor or exclusively to the walls.

Video instruction: installing a floor on the second floor using wooden beams

The technology of insulation and soundproofing of interfloor floors made of wooden beams has its own characteristics, but is quite simple and can be done by one person. A floating floor insulated with mineral wool allows you to create a reliable heat and sound insulating barrier between floors in a private house. But if the insulation is not carefully protected from moisture, then over time it will certainly deteriorate even inside a heated cottage.

The overlap between the first and second floors is ordinary if the second floor is heated. It can be made of reinforced concrete, wood and other materials. It is only necessary to ensure sound insulation. If in winter only the first floor is used, and the second floor is cold, then it must be insulated in the same way as the floor of the first floor (Fig. 5.14.). Due to the fact that a house loses 10-15% of heat through the ceiling, it is necessary to very carefully design and manufacture the ceiling between the first and second floors or the roof if the second floor is an attic. It is also necessary to provide a vapor barrier on the side of the heated room if effective insulation and frame flooring are used. If a reinforced concrete slab is used as a floor and the insulation is placed above it, then a vapor barrier is not necessary.

Rice. 5.14. Construction of the second floor with insulation.

Roof

The roof, like the foundation, determines the longevity of the house. It protects walls and foundations from precipitation and provides thermal protection for interior spaces. The roof can act as a place to place solar energy elements on it (solar collectors for heating air, water, solar panels for converting solar energy into electrical energy). A significant amount of water can be collected from the roof surface for irrigation and other technical needs.

Types of roofs: combined (used for the attic floor) and cold traditional (for an ordinary one-story and an ordinary two-story house).

The design of the combined roof is almost the same as the design of the wall. If we sequentially consider how it is structured, from the inside to the outside, then first comes the finishing, then the sheathing, beams, vapor barrier, insulation, waterproofing, sheathing and outer covering (Fig. 5.15.). It is very important to provide a ventilated space above the insulation, which will ensure continuous drying of the insulation and the entire roof structure. The roof may be provided with fastening elements on which solar collectors and solar panels are placed. In this case, it is necessary to provide holes in the roof for laying air ducts and pipelines from air and water solar collectors. The roof design provides for a system for collecting water and discharging it to a certain place on the site.

Rice. 5.15. Insulated roof structure.

Notes. The slope of the roof should be such as to avoid large accumulation of snow. Mounting engineering equipment on the roof can be done in two ways: a) the equipment is built into the roof structure, b) the equipment is placed on special mounting positions provided on the roof.

Window

The house loses almost as much heat through the windows as through the basement. On the other hand, the windows allow sunlight into the house, providing the necessary insolation and visual connection with the environment. During the daytime in spring and early autumn, additional solar heating of the house is provided through the windows. In the summer, windows can be used for natural ventilation of the house and long-term ventilation. In addition, windows perform important decorative functions both in the interior and exterior of the house. All of the above shows how the window is an important element of the house.

On the other hand, at night in winter, the house loses a lot of energy through the windows (Fig. 5.16.). Therefore, to increase the energy efficiency of an eco-house, a window design is needed in which the energy received from the sun is greater than it is dissipated per day (during the winter months of Siberia this cannot be achieved using simple methods, but in the spring months and early autumn this can be done). For this, various methods are used (multilayer double-glazed windows, coatings that transmit visible light and reflect infrared radiation, filling the space between the glasses with various inert gases, thermal curtains, shutters, etc.).

Rice. 5.16. Radiation and heat flows in the window.

The simplest way to improve the energy efficiency of a window is to eliminate the ventilation function and use thermally efficient shutters. A simple window design with an internal sliding heat-efficient shutter is shown in Fig. 5.17. The window includes one double-glazed unit inserted into the window block from the inside. Behind it there is a sliding heat-protective shutter. From the outside, a frame with single glass is inserted into the window block, protecting the window block from snow, wind, and rain. The shutter provides thermal insulation during the cold night season. It is locked from inside the house. The thermal resistance of a window block when closed (at night in winter) can be made comparable to the thermal resistance of a wall.

Notes. To make shutters, you can use extruded polystyrene or solid high-quality foam plastic or foam glass. The window block is replaceable, assembled from individual elements, mounted externally. The internal double frame (glazed window) is inserted from the inside. To simplify the design and reduce the cost, there are no vents or frames in the window. For ventilation, vents are installed in the walls.

Rice. 5.17. Triple glazed window with thermally efficient sliding shutter.

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Date of publication: 2015-02-17; Read: 148 | Page copyright infringement

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The core idea has so many emotions and intentions so deep that anyone who comes into contact with it becomes a child of this world. "The Second Sex" by Simon de Beauvoir reads for free on the Internet, you can admire it, perhaps with bitterness, but it is impossible with indifference.

Beams and floors
Beam device
Working

There are two options for installing a wooden floor: if the house is single, the floor is attached to logs; if it is multi-story, the floor of each floor is attached to wooden beams.

Although, depending on the design and within the same home, wood floors may be attached to wood beams. Therefore, we are not talking about the choice of technology, but about the structural characteristics of the building.

Beams and floors

The device on the second floor floor on wooden beams has technological characteristics.

namely:

• Beams are part of the home's design, making it stronger. The shafts are firmly attached to the load-bearing walls, making the floor reliable.
• Light weight of building materials that came to the bottom of the floor.
• Low cost of construction of such floors. However, second floor floors on wooden supports have their disadvantages. Reliance on load-bearing walls increased noise conductivity, which negatively affected life in such a home.

  If you think about it and cover the back of the second floor with soundproofing pads, the problem will be solved. Unfortunately, this approach reduces the load-bearing characteristics of the structure as a whole.

Beam device

The floor was of high quality and lasts a long time, it is necessary to determine the number of rays.

To do this, you can use special programs, and developers differ in accordance with standard approaches:

• Choose a beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm or 200x200 mm.
• The beams are located at a distance of 0.6 m from each other.

As a rule, pine is chosen as the cheapest and most affordable wood.

Depending on whether the buildings are brick or wood, the fastening of the supports overlaps. A brick house is built into brick. In a wooden structure, they are laid on a wooden base and secured with metal clamps.

This process requires a certain approach, which can be based on certain rules:

• All wooden structures, including beams, must be treated with antiseptics and fire-resistant materials.
• Do not remove wood structures containing resin as this may cause condensation.
• Place the first stick at a distance of 5 cm from the wall and no more.

As mentioned, the installation of supports is switched according to the structural characteristics of the structure.

Working

The floor on the second floor of a private house is arranged as follows. First, you need to secure the rods on all sides of the beams. The rods are fixed so that the plates are at the same level as the beams. The fastening must be reliable, since it is necessary to walk on the ground.

The overlay has been completely removed from the bottom, which will later serve as the ceiling on the first floor. The panels are installed very tightly, so there are no cracks.

After this, the top side of the cladding is covered with a layer of waterproofing or usually clay mortar.

Its merit is that this mixture does not burn, so it is ideal for such purposes.

The solution is applied in a thin layer, after which it must be allowed to dry. You can place roofing felt as an option. Such technological operations increase the service life of the insulation.

The floors of the second floor in a wooden house must be warm, so it is necessary to install thermal insulation between the beams.

Place floors between floors

As a heater you can use:

• ordinary slag, which is poured into the spaces between the beams;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• expanded clay or sawdust.

In most cases, mineral wool is used due to its low cost, simplicity and ease of installation.

This material fits between the beams and is very tight, so there are no cracks, especially since you can work with sealed mineral wool. This will provide a high-quality thermal insulation coating without possible cold bridges.

Finally, the surface can be coated with a vapor barrier, although this is not necessary if there are financial concerns.

As an alternative, polystyrene foam can be used, but remember that it has good fire resistance, despite its unique thermal insulation properties.

If we are talking about materials such as sawdust, expanded clay or slag, these are bulk materials and cannot simply be delivered to the second floor in sufficient quantities.

After installing the insulation, you can begin getting the flooring on the second floor.

This is done using the same technology as pre-strengthening the space between the beams. But the panels were secured from below, but now it needs to be done from above.

The main thing is that the rough soil is leveled by the rays.

There is another version of finishing the floor covering on beams. For this purpose, the jams are fixed to the beams and in a direction perpendicular to the direction of beam distribution.

In this case, we get an air space that has a positive effect on the stability of the structure.

Additionally, this approach allows for the installation of a floating floor, which can reduce noise levels somewhat.

A slab or particle board slab is attached above the logo. At the same time, there must be gaps between floors and walls. In any case, the floor installation can be completed with a finish suitable for linoleum, parquet or laminate.

conclusion

The conclusion shows that having a heated floor on the second floor of your home is the best choice. This is usually additional comfort and convenience.

After watching the video you can learn more about this technology.

Wooden floors between floors are suitable for almost all types of buildings. They are compatible with wooden, brick and concrete buildings. The structures are installed not only between floors, but also in attics and basements. You can’t do without them in these rooms, but the arrangement of wooden floors between floors differs from basement structures.

Features of wooden floors

The ceiling structure includes, for the most part, only wooden elements. However, absolutely any materials are used to finish the ceiling and floor. The main thing is to correctly install the structure itself.

One of the most important functions of flooring is sound insulation. It is very easy to attach any insulating materials, including slabs, to wood. You can easily install any modern finish on top.

A very important advantage of wood construction is its low weight. Wooden floor elements do not exert significant pressure on the base of the building. Therefore, they are often used in houses with light foundations.

Installation carried out according to the rules promotes natural air exchange in the room. At the same time, the heat and sound insulation of the rooms is not compromised.

In general, wooden structures are very durable. They allow you to create lightweight and durable floors in a short time.

Technical requirements for floors

Interfloor structures consist of the following elements:

• beams;
• bars;
• layer of board;
• heat and sound insulation layer;
• waterproofing film;
• finishing board;
• ventilation slot;
• baseboards.

Note! Wood belongs to the class of highly flammable materials. In addition, it is susceptible to putrefaction, fungi and various bacteria. Therefore, materials for floors must be processed before installation. The minimum set of impregnations consists of fire retardants and antiseptics.

Installation and processing

To make the correct wooden floor between floors with your own hands, you need to understand the structure of its structure. It consists of a beam frame and sheathing made of boards or sheet particle materials.

The role of a heat-insulating and sound-proofing layer is performed by rolled material. Most often, glass wool, mineral wool or similar insulators are used for this. Sometimes expanded clay or polystyrene foam is used. However, the first one makes the structure very heavy, and the second one is highly flammable.

For wooden floors between floors in saunas and baths, it is very important to properly arrange waterproofing. In this case, vapor-proof films are optimal, allowing moisture to pass through only in one direction. The material consists of expanding cones that absorb moisture only from the porous side. No moisture is released from the reverse side of the coating.

Important! Vapor-tight coatings are laid with the porous side facing the insulation, “facing” the room. And for the room above, the film is mounted in reverse.

Floor beams

To figure out how to make a wooden floor between floors, you need to know the features of the structure's frame. Its basis is wooden beams. Most often, elements 15-25 cm in height and 5-15 in thickness are used. There is a distance of up to 1 m between the beams, depending on the cross-section of the elements.

Note! The greater the load on the floor, the larger the cross-section of the beams should be.

The supporting ends are made from 150 mm in length, they are laid using the “beacon” method. First, the outer beams are installed, and intermediate beams are laid between them. The evenness of the installation is checked with a level. The middle beams are laid according to the template. For leveling, you can use various resinous pads from scraps.

Important! You cannot use hewn, pointed wood chips to level beams.

The beams are laid with the same spacing along the entire perimeter, strictly parallel. Before laying, they are treated with antiseptic impregnations and wrapped in 2-3 layers of roofing material. For brick and block buildings, floor beams are coated with bitumen at the ends. This technique protects the wood from moisture. For walls with a thickness of 2.5 bricks or more, vents are left for ventilation. And at the junction of the wood and the walls, roofing material is laid under the beams.

Reel installation

To cover the floor between floors, various wood materials are used, including boards, plywood and particle boards.

The subfloor in the ceiling is the lower flooring; it is on this that the heat-insulating material is laid. It can also be attached directly to the beams from below. In this case, it performs the function of a rough ceiling, onto which finishing material can be immediately mounted. A floor made using second-rate boards will cost several times less.

The distance from the beams or logs is determined by the thickness of the boards with which the rough covering is covered. They bear the main burden. So, if boards of 2 and a half centimeters are used indoors, for attic spaces a step of 50 cm is needed, and for residential spaces - 40 cm. Therefore, for flooring it is recommended to use a thick board of 4-5 cm.

Methods for laying basement floors

For a wooden plinth structure, a cranial block is required. It will allow you to insulate the floor. After all, it is on this that the panels or board covering the insulation are mounted.

A more popular option is a rough layer of rolled or unedged boards. The material is mounted on a wooden block with a square cross-section and a side of 5 or 4 cm. It is best to attach the cranial beam to the logs with self-tapping screws, but you can also use nails.

Advice! You can attach the board not to the skull block, but to a groove (quarter). It needs to be cut with chisels or power tools. It will take longer.

The subfloor of the basement is insulated with bulk materials, including sand. Antiseptic-impregnated sawdust or mineral wool 10 cm thick is often used. To protect wood structures, a waterproofing layer is laid underneath. The most practical option is bitumen roll materials. For rooms in contact with moisture, waterproofing is also installed on top.

Insulation and sound insulation

The thermal insulation layer is very important in the design of the ceiling: it performs the function of sound insulation. Therefore, modern synthetic and mineral insulation is used for its arrangement. They are not susceptible to bacteria and fungi, so they have a longer service life.

Mineral wool is very popular. However, some rolled materials are contraindicated for baths and saunas. It is not recommended to use slag wool in such rooms, as it contains suspended metals. These particles rust from moisture, and the cotton wool sags, losing its properties.

Most often, in rooms with normal humidity, roofing felt is used for waterproofing. Bituminous materials have low cost and excellent performance characteristics. Thick polyethylene is laid on top of the roofing material.

Thermal insulation material is mounted on top of the film. It is very important that there are no gaps between the layers of cotton wool or polystyrene foam, otherwise the room will have low heat and sound insulation. If foam-based board insulation is used, the cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam.

By installing the floor of the second and first floors on wooden beams, you can save a lot. Such structures will cost several times less than concrete ones, and you can also handle the installation yourself.

During work, certain rules must be observed. For example, it is necessary to use beams of a certain section, and the pitch must be adjusted taking into account the floor area.