Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench: video instructions and drawings. How to make a convenient workbench in the garage with your own hands How to make a workbench for carpentry work

A garage is a multifunctional space. In it you can install and repair cars, design and make various things and mechanisms with your own hands.

If a person likes to spend time in the garage doing repair work, he needs to properly equip his workplace. A workbench is a multifunctional work table on which you can process various materials, carry out plumbing, electromechanical and installation work. Also in the design of the workbench, you can consider shelves and drawers to store tools and other items.

Types of workbenches

Workbenches are made for processing metal (metalwork) and wood (carpentry). The designs differ in the material of the countertops. For metalwork models, the table top must be metal, since working with metal involves the use of machine oil and other liquids that can leave marks on a wooden surface.

Also, when processing metal parts, force and the use of sharp tools are often required, so it is best to equip the workbench with a metal tabletop.

Woodworking benches are designed for working with wood, so they are not as durable or functional as bench models.

Workbench design

If the design of a work table for a garage is made by hand, then first of all you need to carefully think through every detail, figure out where the tools will be placed, what work will be carried out on the workbench. The model of the garage table depends on this.

Standard models are often equipped with drawers, which can be made of wood or metal. Also, the table design can be supplemented with shelves, a power shield for hanging tools, which will always be at hand. But most importantly, the workbench must be stable, durable and reliable.

Tool

Grinder with a circle for cutting metal and a grinding disc.

Welding machine and electrodes. Overalls and protective equipment for welding work.

2. Screwdriver.

   Jigsaw for cutting plywood.

Materials

Angle 50 mm by 50 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.4 m.

Square pipe 60 mm by 40 mm, thickness 2 mm, length 24 m.

Angle 40 mm by 40 mm, thickness 4 mm, length 6.75 m.

Steel strip 40 mm wide, 4 mm thick, 8 m long.

Steel sheet for tabletop 2200 mm by 750 mm. Thickness 2 mm.

Steel sheet for making drawer holders. Thickness 2 mm.

Wooden boards for the tabletop. Thickness 50 mm.

Plywood for making drawers and for the side and back walls of the table. Thickness 15 mm

Guides for desk drawers.

Screws for assembling plywood boxes.

Self-tapping screws for metal.

Anchor bolts.

Paint for wood and metal.

The workbench, which will be made from these materials, has quite impressive dimensions: table length 220 cm, width - 75 cm. The overall design and large tabletop allow you to place a vice and, for example, emery or other tools at different ends of the table.

The first step in making a workbench is cutting the available material into elements. The profile pipe is intended for the manufacture of the frame. The steel angle is designed to create stiffeners. It is cut into pieces and a power frame is formed from it. Also, a steel corner is needed for edging the tabletop on which the boards will be laid.

The steel strip is intended for the manufacture of guides on which the side panels will be attached. This material will also be used for brackets for fastening boxes and plywood.

Table drawers are made of plywood.

The second step is welding the power frame of the workbench. The tabletop elements are welded first - 2 pipes 2200 mm long and 2 pipes 750 mm each. The frame must be welded so that another frame of corners can be welded on top of it, into which the tabletop boards will be laid. To reinforce the tabletop, it is necessary to weld several more steel pipes after 40 cm, which will serve as stiffeners.

Then 4 side legs are welded along the edges of the workbench. Their length is 900 mm. Power bridges are welded between the legs to strengthen the structure.

Once the basic frame is ready, you can begin welding the structure for the boxes. To do this, square frames are formed from steel pipes, which are welded to the tabletop on both sides of the table. The frames are reinforced with longitudinal stiffeners.

The third step is making a frame for the tabletop. Two steel angles, 2200 mm long, and two more angles, 750 mm long, are needed to make the frame. The structure is welded so that wooden boards fit inside it.

The angle frame is laid on a pipe frame and welded. The result is a reinforced tabletop, 8 cm high with internal stiffeners.

The metal frame of the workbench is almost ready, all that remains is to weld the panel sheathing for attaching the tool. This requires one metal corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 mm. Two elements are attached to the sides of the structure and two in the middle for reinforcement. The tool panel is welded to the tabletop.

The frame of corners and pipes is ready. You can begin to strengthen the structure. Brackets are welded to the sides of the table, which are cut from a steel strip. A total of 24 parts are needed. A hole is drilled in the middle of each bracket. Using these holes, the side and back walls of the plywood table will be attached to the metal frame of the workbench.

The fourth stage is making drawers for the table. Plywood is cut into blanks, which are screwed together with screws. The number of drawers depends on what will be stored in the table. If the parts are small, then you can build 3 drawers; if the parts are large, then 2. It all depends on personal preference.

You can place drawers on both sides of the table, you can mount pull-out structures on one half, and regular open shelves on the other.

After the drawers are assembled, you need to weld metal strips with holes between the sides of the drawer compartments. The slides for the drawer guides will be attached to these holes on the inside.

The fifth stage is laying the boards into the tabletop frame. Boards 50 mm thick are cut into pieces of a certain length. If you have a long board available, then you need three blanks with a width of 245 mm and a length of 2190 mm. If there are no long boards available, then you can lay the blanks across the table. For this purpose, wood 205 mm wide is cut into 10 pieces 740 mm long.

Before laying the wood into the table frame, it must be treated with an antiseptic solution. This will protect the material from rotting and damage by beetles.

Then it is imperative to paint the entire metal structure of the workbench. This will protect the metal from corrosion. It is best to use a weather-resistant and anti-corrosion coating option. Welding seams need to be painted especially carefully. Drops of metal and uneven surfaces are recommended to be thoroughly cleaned before painting. This can be done using an angle grinder with a metal grinding disc.

After the structure has dried, you can begin laying the boards on the countertop. They should not be driven too tightly into the frame. This is due to the fact that wood tends to expand and dry out when temperature and humidity change. It is better to leave a small gap of a few millimeters between the boards. The surface of the wood needs to be sanded, this will make it easier to lay the metal sheet on top of the wood. The boards around the entire perimeter of the table are screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

The sixth stage is fastening the top steel sheet. It can be welded to the countertop, but there is wood inside the structure, which can ignite during the welding process. Therefore, it is best to attach the steel sheet with hidden screws to wooden boards. The metal must first be painted on both sides with a rust converter. This covering material looks like a transparent paint coating, is easily restored and reliably protects the metal from rust. You can also paint the metal tabletop with the same paint that was used to cover the frame. It will be beautiful, but over time the paint may scratch and the table will not look very new.

The last stage is installing the drawers on the guides and attaching the plywood to the side walls, shelves and power shield in front of the table. This work can be called finishing the workbench. After work with plywood is completed, it must be coated with a composition that will protect the material from environmental influences. Also, do not forget about the design of a power shield for tools. You can attach special hooks or screws to it, from which the necessary things will be hung.

To make it convenient to work at a workbench, you can attach a special lamp with a bendable stand to the power panel. In this case, you can optionally direct the flow of light to the desired location.

Video - The process of making a workbench

Installing a vice on a bench

A vice is an indispensable attribute of a mechanic's workbench. It is not recommended to attach a clamping tool that weighs several tens of kilograms to the tabletop itself. It is best to place a metal gasket 1 cm thick between the metal of the table and the tool. You need to drill holes in the gasket for the anchor bolts. Then, in the same places, drill holes of the same size in the tabletop. The entire structure is fastened with anchor bolts.

Safety requirements for a homemade workbench design

1. If the garage area is not too large, then you can make a smaller table for plumbing work with your own hands. But it is worth knowing that the entire structure must be stable, not sway or budge with little effort.
2. The workplace should be organized so that nothing disturbs a person. When working with a vice, all unnecessary tools should be removed from the tabletop.
3. Corners and protruding parts of the table should not be too sharp or have cutting edges.
4. After repair work at the workbench, you need to clean the workplace from metal shavings, drops of oil and other materials.
5. If a homemade workbench is made correctly, it can easily withstand a load of 200 kg.

Plywood for board

Video - Do-it-yourself workbench in the garage

A garage is not only a building for storing a car and various utensils. It can repair cars and other products. In this case, you cannot do without a good metalworking workbench. You can assemble it with your own hands, but it is important to understand the features of its design and take into account the mistakes that are often made when assembling such structures. The article will talk about the requirements for a good workbench and provide an idea for self-assembly.

Build errors

It is important to have a good understanding of what not to do when designing and building a metal workbench. The first thing you should pay attention to is the place where the bench will be installed. Often when pouring a floor in a garage, they are guided by the rule “it will do.” But this leads to large differences in the plane, which negatively affects the metalworking workbench. For example, some craftsmen who decide to make a workbench for themselves with eight or six supports are faced with the fact that after installation, half of the supports are in the air, and the workbench itself is thrown from side to side.

Working at such a bench is very inconvenient, and small parts are constantly lost. A way out of this situation could be the construction of adjustable supports. In this case, powerful bolts are installed in the lower part, which will allow you to level the bench in a horizontal position. Another option would be to pre-prepare the surface. To do this, remove part of the screed that has already been poured and pour in a new one, which is clearly leveled along the horizon. In this case, there will be no need to manufacture additional parts for the metalwork table supports.

Another solution to this error is to reduce the number of supports to 4 pieces. This will make it easier to achieve the correct position even on an uneven surface. With proper design and construction of the frame, there should be no problems with the stability of the entire structure. Additionally, a shelf or several shelves are built at the bottom of the bench for storing consumables and tools. One of them should be as close to the floor surface as possible. In this case, a heavy tool that can be placed on it will act as a balancer for the entire frame.

Design nuances

There is always an opportunity to avoid assembling a locksmith table yourself. In this case, you can buy cheap consumer goods or a product that was used by a craftsman. But each of these options has its own significant disadvantages. In the first case, there is no guarantee that such a workbench will last a long time, since cheap options are assembled from production waste rather than high-quality material. Used products may offer excellent durability and attractive designs, but may not always meet the specific needs of the garage where they will be installed. Therefore, the best way would be to assemble your own structure according to the developed drawing.

There are several factors that allow you to assemble the most convenient design for your needs in plumbing work. When designing, it is important to consider:

• height;
• width;
• depth;
• strength.

The first and one of the most important factors is the correct selection of height for the future metalwork structure. If the workbench turns out to be lower than required, then there will be a greater load on the back, since you will have to work in a bent state. If the height of the bench is too high, you will have to strain your legs and arms to reach the parts. The ideal option is when the tabletop is at the level of the navel. In this case, the forearms and hands lie perfectly on the plane and there is no need to strain your back.

There are no strict rules regarding the width of a bench. It all depends on what products will be placed on it. In the classic version, the width is adjusted to the height of the person. In this case, standing in the middle, you can reach any point on the workbench. The depth of the product should be such that you do not have to bend over to reach an object lying in the depths. Usually 50 or 60 cm is enough. Particular attention should be paid to the strength of the structure. It is impossible to overdo it with this indicator, because on a metalworking bench you have to work with heavy tools and sometimes cause strong blows to parts.

Advice! The construction of a workbench for metalwork should be made only of metal. Wooden structures are not able to withstand the required load, even if you select hard wood and sheathe them with metal.

DIY making

As a sample for making your own, you can take a table with two side tables. This table has four supports. In place of one cabinet, you can build shelves for easy access, and on the other, you can install drawers in which you can easily store small things. To implement the entire project you will need the following material:

• profile pipe with size 6×4 cm;
• corner 5x5 cm;
• sheet metal for countertops.

It is necessary to prepare horizontal beams from a profile pipe. You will need three or four of them. The length will depend on personal needs, but two meters is usually sufficient. Vertical posts are selected in accordance with your own height, as described above. They are made from the same profiled pipe; you will need four pieces. The wall thickness of the profiled pipe should be at least 2 mm.

Additionally, ten blanks are prepared for the metalwork table frame for shelves and drawers. You can use the dimensions given above as a guide. To strengthen the structure, you will need jibs that will be fixed in the corners. From the purchased corner, vertical posts are prepared on which the stand for hand tools will be attached. You will need four of these racks. Their height is usually 2 meters.

Note! To complete the entire workbench project, you will need approximately 225 meters of square pipe. Corners for racks will require 8 meters, and tires with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 40 mm will require approximately 10 meters.

A square pipe by itself does not have the required fracture toughness. That is why a metal corner is welded around the perimeter of the workbench. Thanks to the correct positioning of the corner, a frame is obtained in which it will be easy to lay a metal sheet that will act as a tabletop. The workbench tabletop does not have to be made of thick sheet metal, since its cost can be quite high. Another option would be to lay strong boards that are covered with thinner sheet metal. This design better absorbs sound during impacts and has less recoil.

Advice! Additionally, between the board and the metal sheet of the workbench tabletop, you can lay a layer of rubber, which will act as a shock absorber.

Frame assembly

Assembling the structure of a mechanic's workbench is not difficult if you have the skill to work with a welding machine. Thanks to the prepared parts, everything becomes simple and clear. The best solution would be to use a semi-automatic machine rather than arc welding. In this case, the material is heated to the required temperature and does not burn out from the electrode. The seams are neat and durable.

The first thing you need to do is make a rectangular base for the construction of the bench. To do this, you will need two blanks, the length of which is equal to the depth of the table, and two blanks, the length of which is equal to the width of the workbench. The ends are cut with a grinder at an angle of 45 degrees to ensure an ideal junction. The workbench blanks are laid out on a flat horizontal surface. Initially, they need to be fixed with small tacks and trimmed if necessary. Next, a full suture is applied to the structure. In this case, it will be necessary to make penetration on the other side.

The next step is to install the four bench posts. They are welded to the prepared frame. They must be positioned vertically. After this, the lower strapping is performed on three sides. At the same stage, vertical stands are welded under the stand for the tool, which will be located above the bench. The next step is the installation of frames for drawers and shelves, as seen in the photo above. In this case, an additional crossbar is fixed between them, but it is welded offset to the middle, so that it is convenient to stand at the bench.

Final work

When the frame is ready, you can weld a corner for the bench top on top. The board is cut to the dimensions obtained and placed in the grooves. Before this, it must be treated with an antiseptic and fire retardants so that it does not catch fire while working on the workbench. This is especially true in cases where two parts are welded on a bench or a tool is used that causes sparks to fly. After laying the board, you can place a metal sheet on the workbench, as seen in the photo. Sheets of plywood are screwed to high vertical posts, in which holes for tools are drilled.

To prevent the instrument from spilling out on the sides, it is necessary to sew up the walls using plywood or other suitable material. In the bedside table on the left, holders are built for partitions that will act as shelves. On the right in the workbench, according to the drawing, drawers are planned, which can be assembled from a board that was placed under the workbench table top.

The metal is corroded by moisture, so the surface must be protected with paint. Before painting, it is necessary to clean the frame of the bench with a grinding machine and degrease it. After this, a layer of primer is applied. After complete drying, the workbench frame is covered with a finishing layer of enamel. It should be paint that is resistant to temperature and mechanical stress.

Typically, a bench is equipped with a vice and a small anvil. An additional base can be provided for them. Such modules are mounted on the bench on the left so that they are easily accessible and do not interfere with the main work. Another important device for a mechanic's workbench is lighting. It should be installed on top so that it is not blocked by the master’s head and hands. LED spotlights can be used as light sources for a metal workbench. Several of them are installed permanently and several must be moved along the plane of the workbench. In this case, it will be possible to choose the best lighting angle.

Before starting work on a new bench, it must be loaded to its maximum to ensure stability, as discussed above. Some owners additionally fix the support legs to the concrete base using anchor bolts. A video showing the assembly of another version of the locksmith table is below.

Summary

As you can see, the design of the locksmith table can be assembled independently. Assistance may be required when carrying out welding work, as this requires special skills and abilities. A second person can help during assembly when there is a need to hold the parts being welded.

Every home craftsman knows that a well-equipped workshop with a stable and reliable carpentry workbench, equipped with all kinds of devices for processing parts, is half the success when making wood products. Of course, you can buy a desktop in a retail chain. However, we recommend making it yourself. Firstly, this will allow you to get a product of the desired size and functionality. Secondly, when building a workbench, additional equipment can be placed in the most rational way. Thirdly, the cost of the machine will be much lower than the factory version, which will allow you to buy a high-quality tool with the money saved. If these arguments have given you a reason to think about making a workbench with your own hands, then our drawings, instructions and recommendations will help you build a good-quality, reliable and functional carpentry workbench.

Purpose and design of a typical carpentry workbench

A durable and reliable carpentry workbench will provide convenience and comfort during prolonged work with wooden parts.

A carpentry workbench is essentially a massive, reliable table for processing wood products of any size. The main requirements for equipment of this type are strength and stability. In addition, the machine must be equipped with at least a minimum set of devices for securing and holding workpieces. The dimensions of the workbench are selected depending on the size and weight of the parts being processed, as well as the available space in the workshop or garage. By the way, there are designs of compact workbenches that can even be placed on a balcony.

The design of a carpentry workbench with a stacked tabletop. In the figure: 1 - base or underbench; 2 - bench board; 3 - miter box; 4 - screed; 5 - vice; 6 - support beam

Since the work carried out on a carpentry machine is carried out using hand and electric tools, the workbench is made of solid timber and thick boards. By the way, the work surface, or in other words the workbench board, is assembled only from hard wood. When making tabletops, dry oak, beech or hornbeam boards with a thickness of at least 60 mm are used. If the tabletop is made of pine, alder or linden, then its surface will wear out quickly and will require periodic updating. Often, a workbench cover is assembled from several narrow and thick boards, placing them on an edge.

A series of holes made on the working surface of the table allows you to install thrust elements for easy processing of long wooden workpieces.

In order to facilitate the design, the support legs of the desktop, on the contrary, are made of soft wood. The vertical supports are connected to each other by a longitudinally installed beam to increase the stability of the product.

Typical diagram of a carpentry workbench

A vice of a special design is hung on the front and side of the workbench for fastening workpieces. In addition, on large-sized machines, separate clamping devices are installed for large and small parts. The optimal location for a carpenter's vice is the left side of the front apron and the near part of the right side panel.

In the underbench - the space between the supports, under the table top, convenient shelves and drawers are often installed for storing tools and accessories.

For convenience, a recess is made in the back of the tabletop for fittings and small parts. Often, a difficult-to-manufacture recess is replaced with a frame made of wooden slats.

Types and design

All homemade work tables for carpentry work can be divided into three types:

1. Mobile workbenches have a weight of up to 30 kg, dimensions of less than 1 m in length and up to 70 cm in width, are equipped with only a vice and are made partly from metal elements. Such machines are intended for working with small, lightweight workpieces or minor repairs of wooden products. A mobile desktop is an excellent option if there is a lack of space and can be installed in any room in the country house or on the balcony. Often, mobile workbenches have a folding design.

   Homemade carpentry workbench with mobile design

   
   

   If there is no need for a stationary, professional workbench, then for minor repair work or the manufacture of small parts you can convert an old desk.

2. A stationary carpentry workbench is made with reference to a specific location and is not intended to be moved during operation. Equipment of this type allows you to process parts of any size and weight.

   A stationary carpentry workbench is a reliable, stable structure, arranged in accordance with the preferences of the owner and the characteristics of the room

3. The compound type machine is the most difficult to manufacture. However, due to its variability, this design is the most practical and functional structure. If necessary, individual parts of the workbench can be easily replaced, since the elements of the workbench are connected to each other by bolted joints.

   A composite workbench is a structure that can be adjusted to any requirement

Project and drawings

When developing the design of a carpentry workbench, the most important criteria are height, configuration and equipment. In addition, it is necessary to take into account who will use the desktop - left-handed or right-handed.

Considering that you will have to work at a carpentry bench for a long time, the closest attention should be paid to the height of the future structure. For people of average height, experts recommend making a table no higher than 90 cm.

Drawing of a carpentry workbench

When determining the distance from the floor to the tabletop, it is best to focus not on average parameters, but on the features of your own anatomy. It is optimal if the upper cut of the legs is at the same level as the hands. If you calculate this parameter taking into account the thickness of the tabletop, then you will be able to work tirelessly at such a workbench for several hours.

The machine cover can be made of boards, solid wood or plywood and is a composite structure. It is not recommended to use chipboard or OSB for these purposes. Professional carpenters have long determined the optimal size of the tabletop - a maximum of 2 m in length and 0.7 m in width. On such a workbench, you can make both a prefabricated wooden door and a small window with equal convenience.

When designing a structure, do not forget about the strength of the supporting frame. For supporting elements of the structure, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm is used. As longitudinal and transverse reinforcing elements, it is allowed to use slats and beams with a smaller cross-section - from 50 - 60 mm or more. The joints of the parts are mounted on tenons or dowels; furniture corners and other fittings are used for strength, and all connections are made using bolts and self-tapping screws. Nails will not be able to provide the required stability and fundamentality of the structure.

Carpentry workbench. View from above

Often the frame, or otherwise the workbench frame, is made of metal. Despite the fact that this material makes it possible to create a height-adjustable structure with less labor, professional carpenters prefer all-wood structures.

Next, let's look at a project for a carpentry table made from plywood, or more precisely from two plywood sheets 1.8 mm thick glued together. The dimensions of the lid are 150x60 cm. The edges of the tabletop are reinforced with plywood strips, which increases its thickness to 72 mm. By the way, the presented dimensions are not a dogma and can, if necessary, be adjusted in accordance with the needs and characteristics of the specific room used as a workshop.

Required tools and materials

Plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is a fairly expensive material (the price of one sheet measuring 1.5x1.5 m is more than 700 rubles, excluding delivery costs). Our project will require at least two sheets of this material. You can save a little if you buy one, larger sheet measuring 2500x1250 mm. Additionally, if possible, try to purchase scraps of plywood at least 300 mm wide, which will be used to reinforce the workbench cover around the perimeter.

Additionally, to build a carpentry machine you will need:

• wooden beam with a cross-section of at least 100x100 mm - for supports;
• timber or slats with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm - for frame reinforcement elements;
  When choosing lumber for a carpentry workbench, carefully inspect the workpieces for the absence of knots and cracks. Remember that these parts will be subject to prolonged load;
• electric drill with a set of regular and feather drills;
• pieces of boards at least 1.5 m long for placing under clamps;
• wood glue. A good result can be obtained by using the domestic adhesive composition “Moment Joiner”;
• furniture bolts with nuts and self-tapping screws;
• Circular Saw;
• carpenter's square;
• long rule (at least 2 m);
• construction level;
• a notched spatula with the size of the cut sectors not less than 3 mm;
• carpentry clamps.

The clamps needed to compress plywood sheets when gluing must be strong and reliable. If you are a non-professional carpenter and do not have high-quality tools, then you can get by with inexpensive Chinese-made clamping devices. Of course, the number of such devices should be doubled.

Manufacturing instructions

1. To make the tabletop, cut two pieces with a circular saw. If you managed to purchase a plywood sheet of maximum length, then you need to saw off one piece 1520 mm long from it. By cutting it in half, you will get two parts 1520x610 mm. After this, use the rule to check the concave and convex sides of each sheet. This will make it possible to correctly orient the sheets when gluing.

   High-quality gluing ensures clamping of tabletop parts with clamps

   
   

   To properly glue plywood sheets, they are folded with their convex sides facing each other.

2. Having laid one workpiece on three parallel boards, apply wood glue to its surface. To do this, use straight and notched spatulas. Remember that the work must be carried out very quickly, otherwise the composition will begin to set prematurely. The manufacturer of Moment Joiner glue recommends joining the parts no later than two minutes after the start of applying the composition. Therefore, if you are not confident in the speed of your work, use wood glue, which has no time restrictions. Of course, the strength of the joint will be slightly reduced, but even a good quality PVA furniture mixture will provide an acceptable degree of adhesion.

   To avoid damage to the workpiece, support boards are placed under the clamps

3. Having laid the second blank on top of the first, place support boards around the perimeter of the future table top and begin to tighten the tabletop with clamps. At the same time, do not forget to control the flatness of the part using a rule. It will not be possible to tighten the center of the workpiece with clamps, so in this part you can install a load weighing at least 15 - 20 kg.
   

   You can glue plywood sheets into a board without clamps, if you can find a perfectly flat surface for laying them, as well as a load of sufficient mass.

4. After the glue has dried, the clamps are removed and they begin to strengthen the side surfaces of the tabletop. To do this, strips of plywood 15 cm wide are glued around the entire perimeter of the lid in two layers. When performing this work, be sure to make sure that the top layer completely covers the joints.

   Reinforcing the side parts of the workbench with additional plywood strips

5. A circular saw is used to trim the side surfaces of the table. The parquet is driven smoothly, slowly. It is convenient to use the same rule as a guide. The tabletop is given a size of 1500x600 mm, observing right angles, for which they use a carpenter's square or a factory corner of a plywood sheet.
6. The workbench supports are made of timber with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, connecting them with legs and drawers, for which lumber with a cross-section of at least 60x60 mm is used. In our case, the height of the machine is 900 mm, however, you can adjust this size to suit your height.

   Making a carpentry workbench frame

7. The legs are assembled “in a tenon” or using dowels, making sure to apply wood glue to the parts to be joined.
8. When assembling the upper and lower frames of the subframe, scrupulously maintain 90-degree angles between the parts. It will be easier to fulfill this requirement if, even at the stage of preparing the parts, their edges are trimmed correctly. The width of the frame of our structure is 900 mm, and the height of the frame is 830 mm, taking into account the distance from the floor to the bottom rung of 150 mm.

   Holes made in the parts with a feather drill will help to hide the heads of bolts and washers.

If desired, you can build a shelf in the bench. To do this, a plywood panel is cut to the size of the lower space, in the corners of which rectangular cutouts are made for the legs of the machine.

Installation of additional equipment

It is impossible to imagine a real carpentry workbench without devices designed for fastening the workpieces. For these purposes, a vice is attached to the finished tabletop in such a way that its jaws are flush with the surface of the lid. To correctly install the device on the workbench, apply a vice to the machine and mark the fastening points. After this, holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled and the tool is installed on the machine using a bolted connection with an M12 thread. When performing this operation, be sure to mill holes for the washers and bolt heads.

View of the finished product with a vice installed

If it is not possible to install a stationary vice, you can do without them by using bench clamps or clamps.

In addition to the vice, there are stops on the work table. To do this, a series of holes are drilled in the tabletop. The best stops are considered to be parts made of wood, since metal devices can damage the workpiece. The sockets for the supporting elements are located at a distance equal to half the stroke of the vice. This will allow you to securely secure a workpiece of any size.

Video: Do-it-yourself carpentry workbench

Building a carpentry workbench is quite a difficult task. However, a self-assembled machine will allow you to work in a convenient, comfortable environment. This requires not only to think through the ergonomics of the workspace and correctly prepare a construction project, but also to carry out the work in full accordance with the recommendations of professional carpenters. Only then will the resulting product be durable and stable, pleasing its owner for many years of service.

About carpentry workbenches

Design and purpose of the workbench

A carpentry workbench is a work table for manual and mechanical processing of wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: making wooden parts, assembling structures, coating them with finishing compounds. A traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer workpieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

A table for carpentry work consists of a bench board (cover) and a bench (supporting frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and the wooden jaws of the vice. They are designed for installing clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, the part is placed between them and pressed with the screw mechanism of the vice. This way the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of appropriate height that will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. The optimal table height is selected based on the height of the craftsman. If, standing at the workbench, your palms rest freely on its lid, then the size has been selected correctly. At such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make the structure from?

A carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to large loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are ensured not only by the features of the fastening units, but also the type of materials used.

Coniferous wood is traditionally used to make the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the bench board must be dry (humidity about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a workbench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to purchase a ready-made glued board, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the funds saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately together with the workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The sidewall design consists of two legs (B), drawers and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through-glued tenon.

The shaped cutouts of the frames and supports (part A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, markings are made on the legs for the tenons of the prongs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outside of the legs, a conical recess is machined for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing out tenons and eyes

Tenons and lugs are made on a sawing machine or by hand, following the basic principles of creating tenon joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a perfect fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared, flat surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Side panel assembly

Parts A and B are glued together to form a finished joint. After drying, any excess glue that appears is carefully cleaned off with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is sanded.

In the center of the glued drawer, drill a 19x38 mm hole for a dowel (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Manufacturing of pedestals and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for the legs (part C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As with the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw.

The connection of the legs with the sidewall is made detachable using a bolt tie with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and depth 32 mm is milled on the inside of the legs. A 14X95 mm hole is drilled at the ends of the legs. At this stage it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.

The support strips (parts D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws at a distance of 22 mm from the upper edges of the rods.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General detailing” drawing, the planks of the underbench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersunk at the ends of each plank. The planks are polished and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Installation of the bench cover

On the back side of the bench board, blind holes d19 mm and depth 32 mm are drilled for dowels (L).

Using a drill bit d19 mm, through holes are made on the cover for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the lid. All holes are chamfered. The stops should fit easily into the sockets and not have any play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure clean holes at a perfectly right angle. It won’t be difficult to make such a guide yourself, if you have a piece of timber on hand.

Installation of a bench vise

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more advisable to buy a carpenter’s vice ready-made. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, you will get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vices try to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the installation diagram of typical structures. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of a non-standard bench vise.

Vise jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are cut from hardwood. After this, holes are drilled for the guide rods, the lead screw, the socket for the bench stops and the holes for the mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vices are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (part K) are cut to fit the size of the vice. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.

When serious home renovations are underway, it is necessary that everything is at hand at any time, which will allow you to make the most of your time. To do this, it is important to properly organize the home craftsman’s workplace if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During renovation or construction, woodwork takes a significant place. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and time-consuming. A desktop, also known as a workbench, will help you use time and resources rationally. You can do it at home.

For most men, the garage is both a “home” for the car, a storage room and a workshop at the same time.

Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only during repairs or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household located on the ground. The carpentry workbench that appeared on the farm will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives a number of advantages compared to using a workbench rented or purchased at a construction supermarket.

1. He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further improvement of the house.
2. Will gain additional management experience and practical skills.
3. You will have at your disposal a comfortable work table suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
4. If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.

Therefore, in one room (it’s good if there is a basement) it is necessary to place shelving and a workplace.

Types of tables

There are various types of workbenches that have different purposes.

1. Carpentry workbench for making wooden parts. It is convenient to process small wooden products, but is not intended for primary wood processing. It will require a tabletop three meters long and one meter wide. The parts on it are secured with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
2. The carpenter's jig is significantly larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, beams and other wood blanks are cut.
3. The universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its table top is reinforced with metal tape and has wooden and metal clamps.

There is a table for carrying out metalwork and car maintenance in almost every garage.

There is another definition of types of structures based on possible location.

1. Mobile (portable). Used to perform minor work with small parts. It is comfortable and quite light. It can be moved from one place to another without much difficulty. The carpenter's table is equipped with a small or medium-sized vice, which allows it to be used for minor metalwork work.
2. The stationary desktop is massive and stable. You can use it to process lumber, but a home craftsman will hardly need such a workbench unless he constantly engages in woodworking.
3. Prefabricated with connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: at any time it can be supplemented with special equipment and the necessary changes can be made, depending on the tasks being solved.

And as a rule, it is homemade, that is, it is made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.

What type of construction a home master chooses directly depends on what goals and objectives he sets:

• a work table is needed for processing small parts and manufacturing small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
• the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wooden parts;
• a workbench will be needed to carry out primary processing of wood, turning it into boards and timber on an ongoing basis;
• The table is intended to be used for periodic processing of small wooden and metal parts.

The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.

Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who has no skills in handling metalwork tools can make the product.

A workbench for a garage is often compared to a desk because it provides convenience for a variety of tasks and makes it possible to keep all the necessary tools at hand.

Material selection

To make a workbench with your own hands, a craftsman needs wood and metal. If you plan to make a small table, then a wooden base will be suitable for it. For the tabletop, laminated chipboard or pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5–7 cm is suitable. For a stationary table, you can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially metal.

In addition to the tabletop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.

And if a home craftsman has an unnecessary desk at his disposal, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.

The driver's workplace must be strong and stable.

An old solid door door can be used in the design. It will make a wonderful, durable tabletop that doesn’t even require processing.

Under the table there must be cabinets with tools and consumables (drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.).

Using available materials on the farm to make a carpentry table with your own hands will save the home craftsman time and money.

It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of a table; you need somewhere to put your feet during sedentary work.

You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that the most acceptable is an intermediate option, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood and then covered with sheet metal.

However, both sides should be, if not sets of drawers, then at least a set of shelves.

A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. He knows well what is needed for this.

The workbench in the garage should not be part of the rack, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hanging tools.

And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:

• metal corner;
• steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
• plywood;
• screws;
• anchor bolts;
• square pipe;
• wooden boards ;
• metal screws;
• dye.

Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.

What tools will you need?

A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in a home workshop. To make it, you don't need a lot of tools.

You can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard on a steel sheet, and a galvanized sheet on a wooden surface.

You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• jigsaw or hand saw;
• hammer.

First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.

Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal work table, you cannot do without a welding machine and electrodes.

The height of the workbench should be such that you don’t have to bend your back and, at the same time, stand on tiptoes.

Where to put it?

Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine what and how often the table will be used and where it will be placed. You can’t do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its size, material and manufacturing procedure.

The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or shed) where there is natural light. It is also important to have electrical outlets near your workbench to plug in power tools and a lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or directly, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.

Design the dimensions of your work area.

Then the parameters of the future design are determined. Despite the existing standards regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home craftsman will proceed from the expediency and actually available space, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts can be freely placed here, without strict adherence to dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the tabletop.

The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.

Another important parameter is the height of the workbench. There are various ways to determine it, ranging from precise mathematical calculations to folk experience, which suggests that the optimal indicator is the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor. An experienced craftsman can make it adjustable.

A perforated metal sheet is ideal as a wall for placing tools.

After determining the basic parameters of the product, you can begin assembly.

1. First, the legs are fixed (four supports made of steel angles, which are also connected by angles and secured by welding at the top and bottom.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
2. After making the frame, they begin to prepare the tabletop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and fastened tightly together. The tabletop is connected to the frame using bolts. The working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.

After securing it, you need to cover the lid with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). The metal sheet is fixed to the surface of the tabletop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned off.

The workpieces should be cut before welding begins.

The main work on making the workbench is completed here, but to give greater rigidity to the structure and attach it to the floor, you can weld metal corners from below. If desired, it can be equipped with drawers and shelves for tools.

We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or steel strip.

Among the necessary equipment on the workbench, a vice must definitely find a place. They are hung on the front side of the tabletop and are used for fastening products. If you often work on large parts, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.

The main thing is to strengthen all 90° connections.

You can mount shelves under the workbench where you can place various devices, the necessary tools, or store processed parts.

Be sure to impregnate the wood with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnation.

Carefully made with your own hands, a carpentry workbench will become a convenient tool for the work of a home craftsman.

This design is close to the ideal of a DIY garage workbench.

VIDEO: DIY workbench.

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