DIY table for a router with a carriage. How to make a table for a router with your own hands? Longitudinal workpiece stop

Professional woodworkers treat their router table with great respect. And not by chance. After all, a convenient and properly arranged workbench is the key to high productivity and increased efficiency of the work process. On sale you can find models of tables for every taste, but often their cost is so high that not every craftsman can afford such a purchase.

However, everyone can make a suitable milling table independently, adjusting it to your personal needs and habits. And it is not necessary to buy expensive branded products or their Chinese analogues. With a little work, you will not only save a lot, but most importantly, in the end you will get your own table, working at which you will be able to produce exactly the carpentry that you require faster and with much better quality.

The manufacturer cannot predict the needs of each potential buyer and builds basic capabilities into its products. You may simply never need many of them, and some that you need may not be included in the design of the table.

For self-made A milling table will not require anything fancy or too expensive. All you need is an electric motor, a guide structure and the table itself, a stable frame on which the equipment and additional accessories will be fixed. And, of course, your own drawing of a milling table.

Why do you need a milling machine and what is its purpose?

The principle of working with a hand-held milling tool is that the milling cutter moves along the surface of a securely fixed workpiece that needs to be processed in a certain way. The problem is that this is often not very convenient. Therefore, they resort to a trick: they attach the router itself and move the part. The resulting design is called a “milling table”.

Using milling tables, you can easily make shaped holes, cut grooves, securely connect parts, for example, the walls of drawers, etc., perform edge profiling and many other operations that are only available in specialized carpentry workshops that have milling machines.

Using milling tables for hand router, you get the opportunity to process not only wooden products, but also chipboard, plastic, MDF, make joints on tenons and tongues, make grooves and splines, chamfer and decorate profiles.

In addition, milling tables can be used as woodworking machines. To do this, fix the tool in the drill stand or on the workbench - and the machine is ready. Therefore, many companies began to produce milling tables in a wide range with a mass additional accessories to them. However, a competently made table for a router with your own hands is in no way inferior to branded ones, and sometimes even surpasses them.

How do milling tables work?

To work with a hand router on a table, you can use a regular workbench or build a special table. This table is distinguished by a rigid design with good stability. This is necessary given the strong vibrations caused by the operating router. Since the tool is attached from below, there should be nothing under the tabletop that interferes with the work. Only the router itself for the milling table and, if necessary, a lift device that ensures accurate and smooth adjustment lifting the cutter.

The router is attached to the table using a mounting plate. The material for it must be of high quality and durable. It is best to use textolite, metal or plywood. The plastic trim mounts on the router base usually have threaded connections that can be used to secure the router to the router table top. On the surface of the future table you should select a groove for mounting plate so that the base of the router is flush. The plate must be secured with self-tapping screws with countersunk heads so that they do not interfere with the future movement of the workpieces being processed.

The router itself is also attached to the table using countersunk screws, attaching it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes in the base of the tool, you must drill them yourself. As an alternative, it is possible to use clamping devices if there is no desire to drill into the base of the router.

On the milling table, be sure to install a button to turn the router on and off. It is also highly advisable to equip the table with an emergency mushroom button for the safety of the person working at it. To ensure reliable fastening of the workpieces, clamping devices are installed. Convenient to use milling Rotary table. To measure, a ruler is usually built into the surface of the table.

Types of milling tables

When starting to make a milling table, you should first of all decide on a place for it in your workshop. It depends on what features you plan to use. It may be a lateral extension sawing machine, that is, an aggregate table.

If you only plan to work on the router table occasionally and use it outside the workshop, build a portable table. It can always be removed or hung on the wall, thereby saving space.

If there is enough space in the workshop, then a stationary table for milling machine. It can be equipped with wheels and moved as needed.

Both portable and stationary desks can be stowed away for periods of time, but still remain ready for specific tasks at all times. To do this, they are configured in advance.

Simple table design

If you want a device of a simple design, you can make it of small height and then attach it to an ordinary table. To do this, take a sheet of chipboard and simple board, which should be fixed on the sheet as a guide. The board should be thin and fastened with bolts.

After this you need to make a hole for the cutter. IN simple design You can finish here - the resulting design will allow you to perform simple milling operations. However, if you want to make a milling table for more thorough work, you will have to spend a little more time and effort.

Manufacturing of the bed

For any milling machine, the bed is its frame, onto which the tabletop is attached on top. The base can be made of any material, the main thing is that it is strong and stable. The size of the bed is selected individually, based on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on the machine.

When manufacturing a machine, it is advisable to perform it bottom part so that the person standing in front of him does not rest his feet on the frame. To do this, the lowest part of the bed is deepened (like ordinary furniture) by about 10-20 centimeters.

If you plan to process door trims, then it would be appropriate to make a table 85-90 cm high, 50-55 cm deep and 150 cm wide.

For convenience when working while standing, the height of the table is taken to be about 85-90 cm. In this case, it is advisable to use adjustable supports in the table design, which allow you to level milling tables for a manual router in the presence of uneven floors or, if necessary, change the height.

Table top for a homemade table

Since the workpieces slide well on plastic, a good option will be used as a table top for a milling table kitchen panel made of chipboard with a thickness of 26-26 cm. Its depth of 60 cm will also be convenient for use, and chipboard material will perfectly dampen the vibrations produced by the router during operation.

As a last resort, when making milling machine tables, you can use laminated chipboard or MDF boards with a thickness of 1.6 cm.

Mounting plate

Because kitchen countertop It is quite thick; to maintain the amplitude of the cutter's reach, the router should be attached to the table using a mounting plate. Despite its small thickness, it is highly durable and will reliably hold the tool without losing the working stroke of the cutter.

Using a mounting plate made of textolite (fiberglass), you should cut out a rectangular blank 5-8 mm thick and sides from 15 to 30 cm. In the center of the plate, cut a hole corresponding to the hole in the base of the milling tool. The plate is attached to the surface of the table, and a router is installed on it.

Assembling the table for the router

After the frame is made, the tabletop is temporarily attached to it. A mounting plate is installed on a previously prepared place and its outline is traced with a pencil. Then, using a hand router with a cutter with a diameter of 5-9 mm, you should select a seat for it in the tabletop. The plate should fit flush into it and without distortion.

Angles seat must be rounded with a file. The same operation must be carried out with the mounting plate - process its corners with the same radius as in the seat.

After this, you should carry out through milling of the tabletop along the contours of the router sole. This does not require special precision, but you will probably still need to select additional material from the bottom of the tabletop for a dust collector and some other additional devices.

All that remains is to connect all the parts together. Having started the router from below, we fix it on the mounting plate, then we fasten the plate to the tabletop. We finally screw the tabletop to the frame.

We arrange the upper pressure

As additional measure For safety and convenience, the milling table is equipped with an upper clamp - a roller-based device made according to the drawings. This is especially true when working with door trims, as well as when making dimensional parts. The design of the upper clamp is simple.

A ball bearing of suitable size will perform the task of the roller. The bearing must be rigidly fixed at a certain distance from the tabletop so that it provides reliable clamping of the workpiece from above.

Milling machine drive

If your choice is to manufacture simple machine, pay attention to the electric motor for it. Power is the main factor of choice. If the tree sampling is planned to be shallow, then a power of 500 W will be enough for you. To ensure that the machine does not stop constantly and meets your expectations, choose a motor with a power of 1100 W or more. Such a drive will allow you not only to safely process any wood, but also to use various cutters.

A homemade milling table can be improved indefinitely, depending on your requirements and desires. But the most important thing is not to forget about safety and be sure to equip your machine with the means to ensure it.

Having received garden plot, I started carpentry. After 10-15 years, I have accumulated a collection of power tools in my workshop, numbering 27 items. A special place in it is occupied by a manual milling machine, which allows the amateur carpenter to make wood professional items good quality. With its help, you can quickly and accurately profile edges and make connections. However, soon working with a milling machine will be like hand tools I felt uncomfortable.

The first time I felt the need to have a milling machine was when I was making wooden grate for the bathhouse: it was necessary to make 40 oval strips. I had to build a simple milling table. I installed a sheet of chipboard with a hole in the middle on a metal bed, attached an old milling machine to a 10-mm sheet of plywood and secured it to the chipboard - the milling table is ready. It turned out to be convenient to work with him, but soon I wanted something better.

Having studied a dozen and a half homemade sites, I realized that it is possible to make a very good milling machine, moreover, in budget option. I started with project development.

The main dimensions of the machine were determined by two products I had: a metal frame picked up from a landfill, and a SPARKY X 205CE manual milling machine with a power of 2050 W.

Do-it-yourself milling table for a router: drawings

A classic milling machine, made on the basis of a manual router, consists of six main elements: a bed 1, a tabletop 2, a mounting plate 3, a manual router 4, a lift 5 that allows you to adjust the reach of the cutter, and a longitudinal stop 6.

Milling table top

To install a hand router on a tabletop, use a mounting plate. Mounting the router to a removable plate has two advantages over mounting directly to the underside of the table top. Firstly, the plate saves 6-10 mm of milling depth compared to the option of attaching a router to a cover with a thickness of 20 mm or more. Secondly, the plate makes it easy to remove the router to change tools.

To make a mounting plate (Fig. 2) I used a 10mm sheet of mylar PCB. I transferred the location of the mounting holes from the base of the router to paper, and from paper to the plate. I made a hole d61 mm in the center of the plate and milled a fold in it to install replaceable inserts for a specific cutter.

I cut the tabletop to size. Marked the necessary holes, grooves and opening for mounting panel. I cut out the opening using a jigsaw.

I prepared guide bars for the copying cutter. The height of the bars must be such that the copying cutter with the upper bearing is in constant contact with them when processing the fold.

I installed the mounting plate on the tabletop, secured two long bars with clamps and attached two short ones to them using a stapler (photo 7). To ensure a guaranteed gap between the fold and the mounting plate, I used thin spacers 0.2 mm thick on each side.

For reliability, I attached the short guide bars to the long ones using small squares.

Removed the plate and gaskets. I installed a copying cutter with an upper bearing in the router collet. Supporting the sole of the router on the guide bars, I set the milling depth to 2 mm in the tabletop. I made several shallow passes, increasing the overhang of the cutter until the depth was 0.5 mm greater than the thickness of the mounting plate.

He removed the copying bars. I cleaned the edges of the fold and the opening using sandpaper.

Using the mounting plate as a template, I drilled mounting holes in the corners. WITH reverse side The countertops were installed with mortise furniture nuts in the mounting holes.

Using a 19-mm cutter, I milled three grooves for aluminum guides, which I secured in the grooves with self-tapping screws. The tabletop of the milling machine is ready.

Lift for milling table

The following milling machine assembly that deserves special attention, - mechanism for feeding the cutter into the cutting zone, or elevator. The cost of a professional elevator sold in stores reaches 50-60 thousand rubles. This is a highly accurate and convenient mechanism, but for the purposes of amateur carpenters it is, of course, redundant.

During development own design I set myself the goal of using the elevator maximum amount purchased parts. The easiest way to solve the problem of translational movement of the milling spindle is with the help of a screw/nut pair: when the nut, secured against axial movements, is rotated, the screw makes translational movement.

The elevator design is shown in Figure 4. As a moving element, I used an M16 bolt 200 mm long. For support I used a long M16 nut, which I welded to a steel plate. The bolt is driven into rotation using a steering wheel attached to it through a welded support washer.

A person who loves to create and make things on his own will get great pleasure from creating a router table. This is a rather difficult, but exciting task. Making a table for a router yourself means getting a structure that costs much less than one made at the factory. When producing a milling table, it is imperative to follow safety precautions.

The milling table is designed for processing materials, cutting shaped holes, and making joints. A table made by yourself will be more economical and much more convenient than a purchased one.

Work in which it is necessary to perform milling is always associated with the movement of the tool along the surface of a rigidly fixed workpiece. However, when you need to mill a part with small dimensions, some difficulties arise. To solve this problem, you can make a table for the router yourself. IN in this case the tool will have a stationary mount; the workpiece itself must move. As a result, it will be possible to quickly carry out end processing and remove overhangs.

Standard milling table

The simplest way to create a table for a router is to mount the router directly to the tabletop. Fastening occurs through a drilled hole. This setup has proven to work well. In this case, the router is located at an angle of 90° to the tabletop; it is rigidly fixed to the table, which dampens excessive vibration.

Such an installation is considered the best if the router has solid foundation, if it has the ability to regulate the immersion of the tool. The base of the router must be fixed to the tabletop so that the router can be lowered to the required depth. This installation method has some disadvantages that need to be kept in mind.

Firstly, the thickness of the tabletop affects the working range of the tool; it allows you to work with cutters that have long shanks.

Secondly, the work is limited by the single diameter of the hole for attaching the cutter.

And lastly, if you have one router, its constant installation and removal, changing the cutter, adjusting the height is very inconvenient.

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Bed production

The bed is understood as the main part, without which not a single router table can do. To do this, the most suitable different materials. You can use metal profiles, MDF boards, wood, etc.

Perhaps the most the best option there will be application metal profile. Existing butt joints are secured only with bolts during assembly. Welding work are excluded. The design will be highly reliable, it will be technologically advanced and easy to assemble.

The dimensions of the bed do not have fixed dimensions; they are selected by each craftsman purely individually. The main criterion will be the size of the parts that have to be processed. To accurately determine the dimensions of the bed, it is best to make a small sketch.

In order to make it convenient to work, the frame needs to be deepened into the floor by about 15 cm. The most important parameter the table is its height. The optimal length would be 1 m. To get maximum convenience, it is worth equipping the table for the router with adjustable supports.

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Cover device

A kitchen countertop made of chipboard with a thickness of 40 mm is best suited for this part. This material perfectly dampens vibration, it has a solid, absolutely smooth surface, along which the workpiece moves perfectly.

Modern phenolic plastic of high hardness is also suitable for the production of the lid. It has an absolutely flat surface and is not afraid of moisture. Plastic does not cause any difficulties in processing, which makes it possible to make grooves where aluminum profiles and stops will be installed. The only drawback is its high cost.

To make router tables more reliable for long-term use, you can make an aluminum tabletop. This material never corrodes, it has light weight. But before manufacturing, aluminum must be clad so that there are no dirty marks left on the workpieces.

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Plates for installing the router into the table

Router tables have the plates needed to mount directly into the table. This method has several advantages.

Due to the fact that the plate is no more than 10 mm thick, it is possible to easily get the router to replace the cutter.

You can use additional insert plates to be able to use different diameters cutters Such an insert plate can become a support plate during the operation of milling surfaces on large parts. The plate gives the router increased stability; the use of plates helps to mill wide grooves of parts.

Inserting the plate is quite difficult. It is necessary to first drill a mounting hole in the table to obtain a tight fit for subsequent insertion of the plate. When there are large gaps, increased vibration occurs. If the plate does not have a reliable, tight attachment to the table, milling accuracy will not be maintained. Too much big hole, drilled into the table top of the milling table being manufactured will lead to its weakening. Therefore, when calculating the diameter of the hole, care must be taken to create reinforcement for the tabletop. It has great importance so that the tabletop and insert are made flush. Additional gaskets, washers, etc. will help cope with this problem.

In a private household, a milling machine is always useful. The equipment is indispensable in the manufacture of various wooden products- from window frames to various small crafts. The milling machine consists of a support table and the router itself. If the owner already has a manual router, then you can make a router table with your own hands.

The table is the main base of the machine. Milling cutters are its working parts. With the help of these parts, many operations are performed when processing wood blanks. On a machine, longitudinal grooves, channels, vertical recesses, oval bevels and much more are made in wood. A table is necessary for precise placement of the cutter - both horizontally and vertically.

Milling table design

The machine desktop must meet the following requirements:

• Standard height work surface ranges from 800 to 900 mm. The height of the table can be different - at the request of the owner of the workshop.
• The table surface should provide unhindered sliding wooden blank.
• The milling cutter must be equipped with an elevator that will easily move the cutter vertically.
• Chip and dust suction must be installed in the working area.
• The mounting plate must provide reliable fastening milling cutter. The thickness of the plate should allow the cutting element to extend upward as much as possible.
• The clamping parts must be such that the worker’s hands cannot accidentally get under the cutter.
• The machine bed must be stable, and at the same time allow the machine to be easily moved to the desired location.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

In a home workshop, inexpensive auxiliary materials are often used to make the supporting part of the machine. To do this, take pieces of MDF, construction plywood, metal corner, hardware (bolts, screws, washers and nuts) and so on.

bed

The supporting structure for the machine is made from wooden beam or welded metal profile. Some craftsmen adapt it to the bed old table or workbench. The most important thing in the design of the frame is stability. During operation of the milling cutter, various vibration loads may occur.

If old furniture is loose, it is worth installing additional fasteners. To do this, use a metal corner, which is attached to questionable parts of the structure through drilled holes screws.

Most reliable design there will be a frame made of steel angle 40x40 mm. For this you need welding machine and experience with it.

Tabletop

The organization of the desktop can be “seen” in videos about the operation of milling machines published on the Internet. When manufacturing a tabletop, it is necessary to follow the requirements that ensure easy movement of the wooden workpiece and the cutting part of the cutter, as well as reliable fixation of the workpiece relative to the cutter.

DIY machine assembly option

Install on both side ends of the table aluminum profile T-shaped section for fastening and free movement of the rip fence in the form of a bar. The plank on the sides is equipped aluminum fastenings, which fit into the grooves of the side profiles.

A rectangular cutout is made in the plank for the exit of the cutter. A guide profile is attached to the part, along which the vertical and angular clamps move. Clamps fix the passage of the wooden workpiece through the milling zone.

A parallel groove is cut in the tabletop to move the miter gauge slider. Switches with a button are installed on one of the supports under the tabletop emergency stop milling cutter.

The work platform is often made of MDF and construction plywood. The surface of such material wears out quickly. A more reliable tabletop is made of textolite. The textolite surface has high wear resistance and a low coefficient of friction.

An ideal option for a countertop could be steel sheet or plane from aluminum alloy. Since the platform must have technological grooves and holes, making such a part with your own hands will be quite difficult, and sometimes impossible. A solution can be found in using parts of old equipment.

Router plate

An opening is cut out in the center of the tabletop to install the work plate. It is better to make the plate from the same PCB. A round hole is made in the slab. Round inserts are made under the hole. By combining inserts, select the through hole in diameter for the desired cutter.

The ring inserts, like the plate itself, must be flush with the entire surface of the work table. The rings ensure that the cutter fits tightly into work area.

Fraser

The power plant functions like an ordinary drill. The milling chuck clamps the cutter axis and tells it rotational movement. The unit is attached from below to the working plate. When designing a table, it is necessary to take into account the preservation of space for placing the device under the tabletop.

A compact electric motor is used as a milling cutter. You can make a homemade power tool to an experienced master. In some cases they use electric drill. To get rid of this problem, purchase a ready-made manual router. IN trading network buyers are offered a wide range of hand power tools of such a type.

Manual frezer different manufacturers has approximately the same set of options and dimensions. The tool is mainly intended for processing wooden workpieces.

A milling machine allows a worker to control the processing process with two hands, and when working with hand tools, the hands are busy holding the unit itself. It is advantageous to place a manual milling cutter in a homemade machine design.

Mounting plate

The polymer sole of the router is removed and a mounting plate is cut along its contour. The mounting plate is made from metal sheet, thickness no more than 6 mm. Mounting holes are drilled in the working area along the screws securing the router through the mounting plate.

The holes are made from the side of the working surface with a countersunk so that the screw heads do not protrude above the plane of the table.

Elevator

An elevator is a device for moving something vertically. In this case, this concerns the milling unit. The manual router is equipped with a lift. The problem of installing an elevator becomes relevant when used as power plant homemade devices.

You can purchase a ready-made factory-made elevator. Many options for making homemade lifting devices are published on the Internet. The main task of the lift is to accurately fix the cutter vertically. The protrusion of the conical cutting surface of the cutter determines the depth and width of the wood sample in the workpiece.

One of the most popular options homemade elevator is the movement of the router on a vertical metal rod with a thread.

Diagram of a homemade router lift

A shelf is installed under the table into which a rod with a flange nut is inserted. A flywheel is installed higher on the rod. By rotating it, you achieve the desired height of the cutter above the surface of the work table.

Rotary milling table

The rotary model of the machine is complex design, ensuring the inclination of the wooden workpiece in relation to the cutter. Thanks to this feature of the machine, they produce wooden blanks complex shape. It is almost impossible to assemble such tables at home.

Safety when working on a homemade machine

For safe work milling machine, you should follow several safety rules:

1. The metal frame must be grounded.
2. The machine is installed in a dry, ventilated area.
3. If the machine is made entirely of wood, then the milling cutter body itself is grounded.

Conclusion

A DIY milling table will save cash owner of the workshop. The homemade design takes into account all the individual needs of the machine owner, which makes it stand out from ready-made options.

Hand milling machines, thanks affordable price, are popular among home woodworkers. However, working on a simple workbench according to the principle: fixed workpiece, moving tool, is inconvenient and dangerous.

The industry produces tables for carpentry work, on which you can install a plane, circular saw, or router.

The device is reliable and convenient, but its cost is comparable to a power tool. Therefore, many craftsmen make such workbenches with their own hands. Since the presence of a tool makes it possible to make a table for a router with high quality, such homemade products look and function no worse than factory ones.

The general design principle is as follows: a smooth tabletop is made from hard material(so that it doesn’t wear out so quickly), on which the router base plate is attached. The instrument itself is placed upside down. A guide for the workpiece being processed is fixed on the working surface.

Bench-type workbench

The most simple design, not requiring presence free space. It can be stored at home in disassembled form, and installed on any table if necessary to get the job done. The advantage is compactness. Disadvantages: low stability, and limitations on the size of the processed parts.

This is a full-fledged workbench without legs. Dimensions allow processing of any workpieces with high precision. At the same time, the table is convenient to store in vertical position. However, to bring into working condition installation site required. The device cannot be installed on a regular table - the router suspended from below will interfere. Usually the workbench is temporarily placed on extendable table, or remove the tabletop and install the panel on a frame with legs.

To save space, another option is suitable: the workbench is mounted on one side on the wall, with folding supports underneath it.

Separate table for router

The design can combine several functions: a workbench, a chest of drawers for storing tools and materials, and the milling table itself.

The advantages are obvious: versatility, stability, safety. There is only one drawback: a permanently allocated space is required. Therefore, this option is only suitable for a workshop; you cannot place a workbench on a loggia.

How to make a table for a router with your own hands?

For example, consider a full-fledged workbench with a chest of drawers for placing equipment. Of course, before starting work, you need to sketch out a drawing (according to the dimensions of your hand router) and make a list of materials:

• Boards or wooden blocks for making a frame.
• Chipboard sheets or solid wood panels for side panels and drawers.
• Hardboard sheet (fibreboard), or thin plywood for partitions.
• Two sheets of plywood 18-25 mm thick, or a finished kitchen countertop.
• Screws, bolts, confirmat, steel angles for assembly.
• Measuring tools: tape measure, ruler, angle.
• PVA glue.

Woodworking tool: Circular Saw, drill, plane, keys, screwdrivers.

Cooking load-bearing structure beds. Before tightening the screws, coat all connections with glue.

We assemble the frame for flat surface. We check the geometry: everything should be parallel and perpendicular.

We install partitions (they will act as stiffeners) and assemble the box for the router. The box is needed to prevent shavings and sawdust from being scattered around the room. In the future, a bell can be adapted to it construction vacuum cleaner, for waste removal.

We install the main element - the working plane. It can be made from two sheets of plywood by gluing them together. To prevent vibrations, the thickness of the table should be at least 5 cm.

Can be used finished surface for the kitchen (available in furniture stores). The main thing that upper layer was strong and smooth.

A steel plate for fastening is installed on the tabletop, flush with the surface. base plate milling cutter. Also, it is advisable to embed profiles into the table to fix the guides.

It is advisable to fill all free niches with boxes in which equipment and devices for fixing workpieces will be stored. Some boxes are replaced with stands for cutters: holes are drilled in the thick bottom of the board according to the diameter of the shanks, and the cutters will not touch each other.

To ensure safety, it is advisable to install a safety cover in the working area, as on industrial models.

A cutter sticking out of a table is a serious danger. If your hand slips from the workpiece, you may get injured. Another way to ensure safe work is a foot pedal switch. Going to simple scheme: between the power cord of the electric router and the general network cable A socket is installed that is turned off by a pedal. Approaching the workbench, you press the pedal and the motor turns on. After completion of work, or emergency situation– the foot is removed from the pedal and the router stops.

The finished table looks aesthetically pleasing and allows you to properly organize your work area, even in limited space.

Lift for hand router

IN normal mode operation, the operator of a manual milling machine lowers the shaft with the cutter using the tool handles. It's about about using the device without a machine. When the router is suspended upside down from the tabletop, the router is in what is called parking mode. A mechanism is required to lift the machine into the working position.

If there are several options:

• Fixing screw rod. Using a threaded rod, the required penetration depth of the cutter is set. If necessary, it can be changed.

• Lever mechanism. Allows you to more quickly change the height of the tool, even during operation. Expands the capabilities of the machine: in a sense, the router becomes three-dimensional.

• Helical trapezoid. Many craftsmen use an ordinary elevator as an elevator. car jack. You raise the cutter strictly to the required height. It is convenient, and the position fixation is quite accurate.

The considered option includes all the nuances of manufacturing a table for a router. You can use the method 100%, or adopt only the necessary technologies.