Glass block in the wall between the sink and the steam room. Glass blocks in the bathroom. Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions

Glass blocks today are a high-tech material that gives many options interesting solutions interior design for all areas of the house. Glass block harmonizes with almost everything finishing materials and is suitable for rooms of any configuration.

Glass blocks provide a lot of possibilities for interior design. Glass blocks for swimming pools, bathtubs and showers, baths and saunas excellent material, because they only benefit from water and steam. Translucent blocks allow light to pass through, but limit visibility, and are suitable both for dividing space and for installing windows and partitions of various shapes.

In hallways and corridors, glass blocks add light through refraction and reflection. A glass block partition for the hallway will allow natural light to be retained in this usually darkest room of the house.

Glass block partitions

Using glass blocks as fencing, you can simultaneously create a stained glass work of art in the form of a glass picture or panel and hide the passages of pipes, ventilation parts or other utilities.

Walls and partitions made of glass blocks are not always worth making large area, this is practical if you need to divide the room. Several glass blocks mounted into existing partitions will enliven the interior and make you take a fresh look at the usual decor.

In kitchens, glass blocks are often used as panels above the cutting table and sink, which results in a lot of light, a feeling of cleanliness, and is practical for washing and cleaning. Glass blocks can be washed with any detergent. The glass block bar counter looks original, especially with LED lighting.

Very popular glass blocks for decorating loggias, balconies, in the country - for verandas or terraces. Sunlight and glass are always a win-win; light and shine are guaranteed in any design. In addition, glass blocks for exterior finishing They are ideal because they are not afraid of cold or heat and are not afraid of UV rays.

A huge assortment of glass blocks, both imported and domestically produced, an abundance of colors, textures and surfaces - from mirror to matte and patterned, allow you to realize any fantasies, and themselves give scope to the imagination.

Installation and laying of glass blocks

Glass blocks – heavy material, and requires support. The base for a partition, pier or wall made of glass blocks must have a reserve bearing capacity. The weight of one block can be from 1.5 to 3 kg or more, and the sizes also vary greatly. There are two ways to install glass blocks.

Laying glass blocks in the frame

The first method - laying in special frames or cassettes - gives a stable structure, with almost perfect flat surface. Frame materials are wood, aluminum, plastic, polyurethanes, in various colors and textures. The frame not only does not spoil the aesthetics of the wall, on the contrary, it can add an additional artistic effect. Frame cells are made according to the size of the blocks. When laying, there is no need to check horizontality and verticality, and the work goes much faster.

Before you start laying glass blocks into the cells of the frame, you need to firmly fasten the frame to the supporting surface of the floor and the adjacent wall. If the partition is ceiling-height, it is also attached to the ceiling before laying the blocks. The fastening must be reliable, and the frame must be strictly vertical; check with a plumb line or using a laser level. It must be remembered that the weight of the structure will be considerable, and stability is a guarantee of safe operation.

Fastening of glass blocks in cells is carried out using special rubber gaskets. Plus this method– simple replacement of one or more blocks in case of damage. You only need to have a small supply of blocks. Another advantage is that such a partition can be disassembled and mounted in another place. mounted this way decorative partitions or piers.

In order to post decorative column, arch, vault or canopy, the masonry must be done using adhesive compounds, with special fasteners and reinforcement. This kind of work should only be trusted to professionals. It is possible to create glass greenhouses from glass blocks and winter gardens, they are successfully used for finishing ceilings, floors and stairs. But such complex installation requires skill and knowledge.

Laying glass blocks on mortar

The second method of masonry is without a frame, using special solutions or adhesives. Many craftsmen lay glass blocks on cement mortar, but experts recommend using tile adhesive, most often called Knauf brand. Glue for laying glass blocks is preferable to cement, since it is elastic, viscous, “stretches” when laying, has better adhesion to glass than cement, and also dries much faster.

The blocks are laid end to end. The first row of blocks is laid on a profile fixed to the floor. The floor surface must be clean and perfectly level. They begin laying the partition from the wall, and lay out no more than three to five rows in one “shift”, due to heavy weight glass blocks. The masonry should be maintained so that the mortar is firmly bonded to the surface of the blocks; you cannot rush.

Deformation of the adhesive in the seams can ruin the whole thing. The joint lines will be curved, and this is unacceptable both for the stability of the structure and for aesthetic reasons, since the shining geometry of the glass blocks next to the curvature is greatly inferior.

Reinforcement of glass block partitions

Glass block partitions require reinforcement; this is a prerequisite. The reinforcement will be galvanized wire with a diameter of 4 to 6 mm; for high partitions, wire with a diameter of 6 mm should be used. The wire is laid both horizontally and vertically, forming a frame.

Two rods are installed vertically, one closer to the outer sides of the glass blocks, the second - to the inner ones. Horizontal rods, there are also two of them, are laid inside the “frame”, next to the vertical ones. Vertical rods will not be visible, since mounting crosses are used during laying. It is much easier to accurately line up all horizontal and vertical seams and maintain their thickness using crosses.

The choice of crosses for glass blocks is extremely important, since these crosses determine the width of the seam. Ideally, the seams should not be noticeable; the thinner they are, the cleaner and brighter the glass block wall will shine. The sizes of mounting crosses are different - from a minimum of 2 mm, which is not suitable for all glass blocks, but mainly imported (Italian and Czech Vetroaerredo, and German companies), up to 5mm and 10mm.

Glass blocks should be protected during the installation period both from splashes of glue, which will be difficult to remove, and from all accidents during work. Blocks from some manufacturers have a protective film; if it is not there, it should be glued on. Any plastic film will do, attach it to facial surfaces blocks conveniently using paper tape. You should not remove protective films before installation is completely completed.

The dry mixture is poured into a container, mixed until completely homogeneous, it is better construction mixer or a drill with an attachment. The recommendations of the mixture manufacturer should be taken into account. The masonry is laid in rows, placing crosses, and not forgetting the reinforcing rods. Correct the position of the blocks rubber mallet. The horizontality and verticality of the masonry should be verified in each row, using a plumb line and building level, but better - laser level, and, as already said, lay no more than five rows per day.

One small nuance can either enhance the positive effect of the work or spoil it - these are colors and quality tile grout for seams. You need to choose carefully, and remember that the colors of some grout in the joints look darker.

Basic rules for installing glass block partitions

Basic rules for all glass block structures:

• The surface under the lower tier must be perfectly flat.
• The use of glass block structures as load-bearing structures is excluded. Only fencing function, zoning and design. The point here is not the strength of the blocks themselves; it is enough with a reserve, because the thickness of the glass walls is about a centimeter (7-9mm). Significant weight and small thickness of the blocks require perfectly level and stable support, strong bracing, and strict verticality. Complex curved structures, including arched ones, are also made from glass blocks, but in these cases there is a supporting frame.
• The most big square partitions are possible 15 m2. More is not possible for reasons of stability, since glass blocks are very heavy and collapse may occur.
• It is better to remove protective films from blocks as a last resort, after all finishing is completed.

Installation of glass blocks into a frame is simple and can be done even without experience. Installation on a mortar or adhesive mixture is labor-intensive and requires skills and constant alignment of the vertical and horizontal. Stability is the main condition for the safe operation of a glass block structure. Installation using the second method is usually trusted to specialists.

In baths and saunas, all structures and finishing materials are subjected to rather aggressive tests associated with high temperatures and high humidity, which is why the appearance of glass as a finishing material and structural element zoning is quite obvious.

At the same time, glass is not just a tribute modern trends in design art, but also a completely reasonable solution both from the point of view of reliability and safety, and from the point of view of hygiene, because in conditions high humidity the most favorable atmosphere is created for the development of all kinds of fungi.

Types of frameless structures

Today processing capabilities tempered glass are larger than ever and this allows you to operate this material more freely during the design and full-scale installation of a frameless glass partition. A classic bathhouse and sauna consist of at least two zones - a steam room and a dressing room with a bathtub, shower room and often a swimming pool. protects the steam room from all other areas of the bathhouse and does it very effectively. There are several glazing options to choose from:

• Rectangular.
• T-shaped.
• Combined.

First option has the best aesthetic properties. The inherent lightness of the structure due to the completely transparent facade distinguishes the glass partition from the classic cramped wooden entrance.

Second option The arrangement is also worthy of attention and retains the moderate lightness of the structure, although it is complemented by recognizable wooden pylons that harmoniously complete the steam room area. Option with combined design, in which vertical wooden profiles less popular and used for individual projects.

Features of bath glass

Glass for fencing steam rooms has a number of features that increase the efficiency of the partition and also increase the safety of its use.

• The first feature is use only tempered glass , because ordinary heated glass when hit cold water bursts and can damage the user with large and dangerous fragments.
• In addition to hardening, recently it has become widespread glass surface coating technology silver ions, which provide it with antibacterial properties regardless of the temperature and intensity of glass cleaning.
• Careful glass edge processing – this is a condition for the tightness of the steam room, as well as the durability of the entire partition structure.

Decorating glass at the customer's request can be done by tinting, matting, engraving, fusing, photo printing and even applying an entire plot. This approach will make the bathhouse or sauna truly individual, stylish and original.

Fastening system and fittings

Fastening of an all-glass partition in a bathhouse or sauna is provided aluminum profiles(wooden ones can also be ordered), the location of which is limited to the ceiling and floor.

This profile system ensures reliable fixation of fairly large glass panels without the risk of their collapse, even with dynamic temperature changes. Naturally, the color of the profiles can be chosen at the request of the customer, preferably to match the glass.

The same applies to the fittings used. It is made from of stainless steel in various color variations - matte and glossy chrome, as well as gold. The wall-to-glass, glass-to-glass hinge system is capable of opening in both directions, which eliminates the need for a door latch.

Glass blocks are used not only for finishing buildings industrial type, they are used in modern interiors and perform various decorative inserts or completely walls. The material is made from glass mass, it turns out transparent, which allows more light to pass into the room. The blocks are hollow inside, the glass thickness reaches 7 millimeters. Using glass blocks modern look You can create an original interior; they are used to create columns, partitions, and make wall and ceiling inserts.

Characteristics of glass blocks

Glass blocks can have various colors and texture, they come in transparent or multi-colored, matte and decorative type, that is, with patterns. The material may have different shape, rectangular, square, triangular, glass blocks can also be end, corner or in the form of columns.

Thanks to glass material, the blocks are transparent, non-flammable, and have an aesthetic appearance. A vacuum is created inside the blocks, due to this the material is considered energy-saving, and it also performs thermal insulation functions. Glass block has good contact with water, so it can be used for finishing swimming pools and wet rooms.

Also, glass block has a high level of sound insulation, fire safety, the material is environmentally friendly, and is not picky in cleaning. If one block is damaged, there is no need to disassemble the entire surface; it is enough to replace an element or a separate section.

Glass blocks are resistant to low temperatures, also produced special material which can withstand significant loads.

A surface made of such material does not require further finishing, for example, plastering, painting or wallpapering. To clean the blocks from contamination, they can be washed with plain water or by various means for glass.

Methods for laying glass blocks

Let's look at how to lay glass blocks. The material can be laid in three ways. The first method is labor-intensive and resembles brickwork. First, the site of the proposed structure is cleaned of contamination, after which an adhesive mixture is prepared. To connect glass blocks to each other, you can use special compounds or adhesive mixtures that are suitable for ceramics.

Then two rods are laid on the floor surface, which are made of stainless steel; they serve as a reinforcing material. Special holes are made in the wall where the ends of the rods are inserted. After this, holes are made in the floor and the rods are secured vertically. The blocks are laid according to the type of brick laying, the seams must be unstitched, and the material itself must be cleaned of mortar. The surface is left to dry for up to ten days, and then the seams are rubbed. special composition to match the color of the blocks.

In the second method, laying is carried out using a solution; in order to ensure that the distance between the blocks is the same, special crosses are used. First, lay the first row using a level construction type and lighthouses, between the glass blocks there are crosses and rods that serve as reinforcing material. Using a spatula, spread the solution onto the surface of the laid row and the side part, then press the block against the crosses. Excess mortar is removed from all joints, and after drying, grouting is performed. On final stage, the surface of the blocks is washed with a sponge.

The third installation method uses a special frame, with solutions cement type do not use. First, a frame is made of wood or plastic, the cells of which correspond to the size of the glass block. Ready frame secured on all sides with screws to all adjacent surfaces, that is, the floor and walls. A glass block is placed in each cell, and it is fixed using special rubber or sealant inserts. When using rubber gaskets, the blocks can be easily pulled out and swapped if necessary. The frame can have any shape, square, rectangular or in the form of steps.

The frame can be made not only from plastic or wood; aluminum or soft polyurethane are also used for its manufacture. Such walls will not have high sound insulation; they are used only as decorative elements.

What is the texture of glass blocks?

Glass blocks may differ in external signs. Their textured surface It can be smooth, embossed, light-scattering, that is, matte on the inside or outside, and light-directing, namely embossed on the inside.

In order to increase light permeability, the ends of the blocks can be covered with amalgam. The ends of Euro glass blocks are coated with paint white. Thus, after laying them, the solution will remain invisible. Also, sometimes a hole is made at the ends to fill the block with paint.

Advantages of glass blocks

1. The material is durable and reliable, resistant to humidity, low temperature, and fire.
2. The glass block has a high light transmission function, thanks to this, the room can be made visually spacious and bright.
3. Using this material you can give your interior an original design.
4. Glass blocks can have various sizes, shapes and colors, this allows you to combine the material and get an unusual surface.
5. Thanks to the tightness, inner space does not get dirty, but outer surface easy to clean with a sponge.
6. The material has high thermal and sound insulation, it is able to absorb noise, is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, resistant to humidity and sub-zero temperatures.
7. The surface made of glass blocks does not require further finishing.

Glue method for laying glass blocks

1. The block located on the edge is fixed on the guide horizontally.
2. To connect vertical surfaces, special dividing strips are used.
3. Before you start laying the second row, install the horizontal guide again and attach it to the wall.
4. The glue can harden either quickly or over a long period, depending on its type.
5. At the end, all joints are grouted with the required color, and then the blocks are washed from the solution that has fallen on them.

Laying glass blocks on cement mortar

1. The solution must be spread not only on horizontal surfaces, but also on vertical walls.
2. Using a building type level, measure the evenness of the installation.
3. In order to strengthen the structure, reinforcement is performed with rods.
4. After the solution has hardened, the seams are rubbed with the required color and the surface is washed away from dirt.

Basic rules for laying glass blocks

1. The solution used when laying glass blocks should not contain large grains of sand, otherwise the product can be scratched.
2. As soon as the solution dries a little, any dirt from it must be removed so that the surface has a beautiful appearance.
3. If the material is smeared with grout, it must be removed wet before the stains dry. For this, acetic acid is used.
4. When laying matte glass blocks, the protective film is removed after all joints have been grouted.
5. The rod for reinforcement should only be galvanized or steel, its diameter reaches 6 millimeters. The rods are placed vertically and horizontally. Iron will quickly become unusable, that is, it will become covered with corrosion due to a thin layer of solution.
6. Glass blocks can be laid in no more than three rows at a time so that the structure does not move or bend. You can knock down glass blocks using a rubber hammer.
7. If installation is carried out external walls, then their area should not be more than 15 m2, otherwise the bottom row of blocks may burst from significant weight.
8. Since glass blocks are used to make built-in surfaces, some kind of support must be located along their edges.
9. When making a frame, the cells must correspond to the size of the glass block, tolerance 2 millimeters. The void at the top is filled with sealant or a rubber gasket is installed.

Using glass blocks you can get original surface, their installation does not require special knowledge; you can do it yourself. The material is easy to care for and has a number of advantages, different original decor in the interior.

The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates rooms that are so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made from bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of one material or another depends, first of all, on what the bathhouse itself is built from. If this is a log or frame structure, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the overall concept, but for brick bath Brick would be more suitable.

Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)

In addition, the type of heating device located in the steam room. If we're talking about about traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to report it to formation full wall. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be either frame or made of ordinary boards.

In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition

On a note! For brick partition It is recommended to use red brick, not silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low thermal insulation and moisture resistance).

The design described below is wooden frame, lined with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.

Design features

Stage one. Preparatory work

First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1.In the opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut out using a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific ceiling height, but on average it is 250 cm).

Step 2. Next, you need to install formwork to create a base for the structure, taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the sink floor is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.

Step 3.The surface of the floor in the formwork must be treated with concrete contact and deep primer. To make the connection more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer in dowels there and screw in the screws ½ in.

Step 4.After this, the formwork must be filled with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it needs to be covered with roofing felt in two layers.

Stage two. Frame construction

Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks need to be installed on the curb, marked and similar holes made there.

Step 2.The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.

Step 3.Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the outer racks (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and secured with hexagonal screws. A washer is placed under each screw.

Step 4.An opening is made for the door frame - they are placed vertical racks, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance is 1 cm on each side more sizes frames

Step 5.Using wood screws, the frame jumper is attached.

On a note! At this stage Special attention attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design turns out.

Prices for wood screws

wood screws

Stage three. Thermal insulation. Installation of sheathing

Step 1.Mats need to be placed in the cells mineral wool. If necessary, the material is trimmed using a mounting knife.

Step 2.A plastic film is attached to it on both sides of the frame (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.

Step 3.The sheathing is installed at intervals of 40 cm.

On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed at the stage of assembling the frame - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.

Stage four. Door frame

Step 1. If the opening size is 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking verticality/horizontalness and fixing the frame to the racks, all gaps formed must be blown out polyurethane foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off using a mounting knife.

Step 2.Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is standard indicator), open elements the opening is covered from the sink with planed boards 60x30 mm. In this case, special attention is paid to the fact that vertical plane, which runs along the outer edges of the boards, must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.

Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles

Finishing can be done both after installation of the lining and before it. It is important that the joint between the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with extreme precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.

Stage six. Cladding

Installation of the lining starts from the corner and is carried out using the “tenon and groove” technology. This means that the tenon of each subsequent sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the sheathing is done using iron clamps.

The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without heads (to avoid accidental burns) or with ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closing with pins.

Prices for lining

Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Final finishing of the edges of the structure

Step 1.For the platbands, the same lining that was used for finishing is suitable. Using a circular saw, the lining should be cut to length and then the edges should be cleaned manual router(a radius cutter is used). The vertical casing joins the horizontal one strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.

Step 2.The baseboards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is plank) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).

Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the screws are hidden with wooden pins.

Step 4.The planks installed at the top of the structure will serve only a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes in it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.

In the photo - ceiling plinth in the steam room

The described option is suitable for a bathhouse that has already been settled and stood for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case the dimensions of the log house itself change. If complete settlement has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.

Ordinary boards can be used as cladding. Both they and the lining should be made only of hardwood, because... coniferous wood at high temperature releases resin. We also note that all beams in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.

Platband prices

platbands

The partition in the bathhouse between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use ½-brick spoon masonry (or, alternatively, a whole brick). To weight similar design there will be quite a lot, so to lighten it, you can use hollow bricks.

Stage one. Preparation

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all working surfaces. The plank covering is removed from the floor all the way to the foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Next, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed for work are removed from the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.

Stage two. Solution

To work you will need the following equipment:

• sieve;
• Sander;
• shovel;
• mixing tank.

Step 1.First you need to sift the sand to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine mesh chain-link mesh and 4 beams. The sand is carefully sifted.

Step 3.Mixing proportions – 3:1. First, you should fill in six buckets of sand and two of cement. Water is added and the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.

Step 4. The solution is mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but there is no need to add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.

Stage three. Construction

For this stage you need the following tools:

• level;
• pick;
• trowel;
• plumb line;
• rule.

On a note! Bandaging the masonry is a prerequisite. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will be more durable.

1. Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
2. The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
3. The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks previously soaked in concrete. The pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.

Video - Laying a partition of ½ brick

Foam blocks (made of gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with insignificant (compared to brick) weight, they have a O larger sizes, which means the laying will be carried out much faster.

Standard blocks have a height of 300 mm and a length of 600 mm. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned to be installed, but in most cases, products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.

The laying procedure is not much different from previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.

Prices for foam blocks

foam blocks

Stage one. Marking

First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markings, the first row of blocks is laid out “dry”, and if necessary, trimming is done. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a stone saw. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.

In place of the future structure, waterproofing (roofing felt is suitable) is placed in two layers.

Stage two. Installation

For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The glue must be mixed with an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, the verticality/horizontalness is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ the width of the product to make the partition more durable.

Where the partition joins the main walls, it is tied with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, and reinforcement with glue is inserted there to a depth of at least 50 mm. You can make recesses in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out from the walls.

On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two reinforcement rods with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the rods must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.

Stage three. Plaster

For plaster you can use the same adhesive solution, with the help of which the masonry was carried out. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. After plastering is completed, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.

Plaster prices

plaster

In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a partition made of foam blocks can be built directly on wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.

1. When purchasing blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces are, the better the finishing will be.
2. The dimensions of the blocks depend on the installation location, while the density does not play any role.
3. It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
4. If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
5. The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
6. It is advisable to leave a small gap (about 100 mm) between the partition and the ceiling, which must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks

Modern construction and decorative material in the form of glass blocks provides ample opportunities for interior decoration. Using these glass “bricks”, you can realize the most unexpected decisions room decoration. Such designs are very convenient to use - they transmit light perfectly and are characterized by high thermal and sound insulation. To mount a wall or partition from glass blocks, you will need to take into account some features of working with this material.

Many remember fragments of walls and blank windows industrial buildings and public spaces made of glass blocks. Then this material was undeservedly forgotten for some time. Currently, glass blocks are experiencing a rebirth - using these products of a new format, you can create unexpected and original solutions not only for the exterior decoration of private houses, but also for creating original and unique interiors of various premises.

Glass blocks are products made from two glass plates of thick glass (frosted, transparent, painted in the mass or with a pattern), connected together in a hermetically sealed manner. closed design. The air gap gives this building material excellent sound and thermal insulation characteristics. Glass blocks are made with a smooth or corrugated surface. Depending on the relief, they can be transparent, scattering or directing light. Glass blocks of rectangular and square shape, as well as triangular, angular and even round products, with a thickness of 7.5 to 10 cm, weighing about 2.5-4.3 kg. Standard sizes glass blocks are 19x19x8 or 24x24x12. There are samples of Euro glass blocks on sale, in which the ends are coated with paint - thanks to this, the mortar seams in the masonry do not show through.

This material has a number of advantages, including the following:

• natural composition;
• high wear resistance and durability - walls made of glass blocks are resistant to abrasion, mechanical damage, moisture, and temperature changes;
• thanks to the presence air gap, glass blocks retain heat perfectly and provide excellent sound insulation, approaching the characteristics of brick wall or modern plastic double-glazed windows;
• a wall made of glass blocks can withstand even a mild earthquake. In addition, glass blocks are not flammable; in the event of a fire, they do not melt or crack for a long time;
• ease of assembly and ease of use - glass blocks are a unique building material that does not require subsequent finishing in the form of cladding or painting, since they themselves have pronounced decorative properties;
• moisture resistance, thanks to which glass blocks can be used for construction interior partitions and walls, as well as glazing of windows in rooms with high humidity (in swimming pools, bathrooms, toilets).

Glass blocks effectively dissipate Sun rays, without preventing their penetration into the room, giving the lighting softness and comfort. At the same time, transparent products provide the effect of a panoramic view, and corrugated ones close the room from prying eyes.

Application of glass blocks

Decorative glass blocks in the interior of premises various styles look very impressive. They are convenient to integrate into various surfaces for decorating walls, windows, and partitions.

This material is used in construction for the following purposes:

• when remodeling housing to erect walls in a new convenient option, since glass blocks allow you to build walls without weighing down the space. Please note that this material cannot be used for the construction load-bearing walls, since a similar load may appear for a given building material excessive. It is worth considering that a wall made of glass blocks, separating the room from the hall or corridor, allows sunlight and will add illumination to this room, and embossed glass blocks will protect the room from prying eyes;
• a glass block partition with a flat or stepped top can be erected quickly and without special costs labor and time. This design is especially relevant in bathrooms and toilets. Since this material has water-repellent properties, it can be used to create bathing corners. Glass blocks in the bathroom allow you to zone different zones, protecting you from prying eyes when bathing and protecting the room from splashing water. Such glass block partitions look very harmonious in a room with high humidity. Glass block showers are more high security in operation compared to glass analogues.

How to install glass blocks with your own hands

To install glass blocks with your own hands, you will need to take into account a number of nuances of working with this construction and decorative material. It is important to note that glass blocks can only form a built-in structure, which requires support in the form of a wall or an end post.

There are several methods for laying glass blocks:

• classic method - using a wooden guide frame or a module made of metal profile, which is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. Cement mortar is used to secure the masonry; in addition, tile adhesive can be used as an adhesive for glass blocks. Tile adhesive is more viscous and elastic, while it dries quickly and fixes glass blocks efficiently;
• frame method - conveniently mount glass blocks on a base in the form of a special frame, and they must be fixed using a compact structure of a compact structure. To secure the masonry to the frame, you can use silicone sealant, liquid nails, etc.

The classic method of installing glass blocks

Before installation, the surface to be treated should be cleared of debris, dust and remnants of old finishing. Then you need to apply markings to the base base. To determine the size of the wooden module (frame) for fixing the masonry, you need to lay out a row of glass blocks and insert plastic dividers between them. After this, you should measure its length and height and calculate the required dimensions of the frame, which will be installed in place of the future laying of glass blocks. After drilling holes in the frame, it must be attached to the wall structure using 50 mm dowels and screws. To level the frame module, you can use wood chips placed between the wall and its supporting surface.

After preparation base surface You will need to prepare an adhesive mixture. To lay glass blocks, you can use tile adhesive or prepare cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. In order to increase the plasticity of the mixture, it is recommended to add PVA glue to it (at the rate of 200 g of glue per five buckets of solution). When laying transparent glass blocks, it is preferable to use white adhesives - in this case, the seams of the structure will look more aesthetically pleasing. Please note that you should not prepare a large amount of adhesive solution at once, as it tends to harden quickly.

Before installation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the glass blocks, since manufacturers provide a guarantee for this material before starting installation work. Protective film Blocks should not be removed until work is completed to prevent damage to the glass plates. If such a film is not available, you can use any polyethylene film, securing it to the surface of the blocks using paper tape.

When installing glass blocks, reinforcement should be used by laying rods made of galvanized or stainless steel wire vertically and horizontally in the joints of the masonry - so that they form a metal mesh that secures the structure. To do this, reinforcing rods must be secured in the wall structure, fixing them in pre-prepared holes. Metal rods are laid on plastic mounting crosses, and contact with the glass should be avoided. At the end of the work, the crosses remain inside the masonry and are rubbed down.

To lay glass blocks, you can use the following step-by-step instructions:

• first you will need to install vertical reinforcing rods into the holes on the bottom of the frame;
• Next, apply an adhesive solution up to 1 cm thick to the horizontal surface of the frame at the bottom;
• Having laid the mortar on the side surface of the frame to fix the first glass block, you should install the first glass “brick” and fix it by pressing it into the layer of mortar;
• according to this principle, it is necessary to lay out the bottom row, leveling it with a mallet, and then install mounting crosses between the glass blocks, apply a layer of adhesive mixture on top and install a reinforcing horizontal rod, fixing it in a previously prepared hole;
• Next, you will need to sequentially lay glass blocks in rows according to the method described above, interspersing them with reinforcing rods.

To avoid subsidence and curvature of the constructed wall, it is recommended to carry out installation gradually - 3-5 rows at a time, leaving time for further drying of the seams for at least 12 hours. After fixing the glass blocks, remove excess adhesive mixture with a sponge.

After installation, you should wait until the structure dries completely - this will take several days. Next, you will need to carefully chop off the parts of the plastic crosses protruding from the masonry, if any. In addition, you should pay attention to the seams - in order for them to look quite aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to apply a grouting composition of a suitable shade. To seal the seams you will need to use silicone sealant.

After completing the above work, you should thoroughly wipe the glass blocks with a clean cloth. If necessary, the remaining adhesive mixture can be removed from the surface of the glass using an anti-scale agent or solution of hydrochloric acid– in this case, you will need to make sure that this liquid does not penetrate the seams.

For installation of structures round shape glass blocks use the same classical installation method. The only difference is that when laying arches it is necessary to bend the horizontal reinforcement, giving it the required form to get a rounded wall. In this case, mounting crosses to adjust the thickness of laying seams must be used only on the inside of the structure. To lay the rounded part of the wall, it is recommended to use halves of glass blocks, since in this case a denser reinforcing mesh will be used, strengthening the structure. In addition, by using smaller “bricks” it is easy to minimize the discrepancy between the external and internal seams, as a result of which such a wall will look more neat.

Frame method of installing glass blocks

To install glass blocks, you can use an easy-to-implement, but more expensive method of laying without cement mortar. This design is lighter and looks more aesthetically pleasing compared to classical method installation

To do this, you will need to use a specially made frame system in the form of a metal module or a wooden one (made from dry sanded boards) - with cells of a suitable size into which glass blocks are inserted. In this case, it is necessary that the cell size matches the size of the glass blocks with an accuracy of 2 mm. This design will need to be painted suitable color and securely attach it to the walls, floor and ceiling - for this you should use dowels or anchors. It is important to carefully align this module vertically and horizontally.

Next, you will need to place glass blocks into the cells of the prepared frame and fix them at the joints using silicone sealant, resembling colorless rubber after hardening. It will take up to 10 hours for the joints to dry, after which the frame structure will be ready for use.

Application of glass blocks - photo

Installation of glass blocks - video