Ways to level the floor in an apartment. How to level a floor under a laminate The cheaper to level the floors in an apartment

Advantages of cement-sand screed:

Among the main disadvantages it is worth highlighting:

• long hardening period;
• the need to have the skills to perform such work or involve professionals.

The execution of the screed begins with definitions zero level . To do this, you can use a building level, with the help of which a single line is created at a height of about 1.5 m from the floor, from which the distance to the floor level is measured. It is worth focusing on minimum distance, which will help determine the floor height level, but it is worth considering that minimum thickness ties 2 cm. Possible along the bottom of the wall, also mark the lines of the future floor level, which will help make the screed as even as possible.

Next stage - display of beacons, which allow you to achieve the maximum flat surface. They can be used as T-shaped metal guides that are attached to the base adjustable screws. An easier way is to install guides on slides made of thick cement-sand mortar required height. The evenness of the beacons is constantly checked using a building level. The first one is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are mounted parallel to it in increments of 40-60 cm.

The basis of the self-leveling mixture is cement, but in addition to it, the composition also includes special modifying additives that can increase the plasticity and fluidity of the solution. Some additives make it possible to suppress the appearance of microcracks in the future. Depending on the composition Self-leveling mixtures are divided into:

• high strength;
• For ;
• fast-hardening;
• thin-layer.

In addition, there are self-leveling mixtures on sale, intended not only for rough finishing, but also for the finishing, as well as compositions with special properties. There are also compositions for rough leveling, they are intended for surfaces with significant unevenness.

All self-leveling mixtures boast a number of advantages:

• simplicity and high speed working with them;
• speed of hardening;
• high strength indicators, so this leveling method is quite suitable for rooms with high degree cross-country ability;
• resistance to temperature changes.

Cons this method there is little leveling of the floor - these are rather its features. Large differences in the level of the floor surface cannot be leveled with a self-leveling floor. You need to work with the mixtures very quickly - if you hesitate and allow it to dry out, then it is unlikely that you will be able to achieve a smooth surface.

Working with such mixtures is really simple. They are usually used to level concrete and sandy bases. Preparing the mixture consists of diluting the purchased powder the right amount water. It is better to use for stirring construction mixer or a drill with an attachment. The composition is prepared in portions, since its properties are lost within 20 minutes. Naturally, before starting work, you should carefully prepare the original surface: clean it from dust, seal all cracks, and treat it with a primer.

When the mixture is ready, it is immediately poured onto the floor. The principle of its operation is based on the law of gravity, so there is no need to install beacons and level the solution according to them. It is also worth remembering that this solution is self-leveling and not self-spreading, so after pouring it onto the floor you need to smooth with a wide spatula or a needle roller. It is better to immediately fill the entire floor in the room, but if the area is large, apply the solution in strips, acting very quickly and not allowing the edge of the strip to dry out. In this case, only professionals can achieve a perfectly flat surface.

The hardening speed depends on the room temperature, humidity and layer thickness. On average, after 6-12 hours you can move on the surface, and after 3-4 days – install the finishing coating.

No. 4. Leveling with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

Leveling with GVL is called dry screed. This process is much simpler and faster, but in terms of quality ready screed inferior to monolithic. A layer of expanded clay is laid under the gypsum plasterboard, which plays. The technology allows the use of other materials that have similar thermal insulation properties.

They're starting GVL alignment With surface cleaning from dust and dirt, after which it spreads waterproofing material, which can be polyethylene film. Its strips are laid with an overlap of about 10-15 cm and overlapping the walls by 10 cm. Along the perimeter of the room it is better to use an edge strip, which is placed between plastic film and a layer of expanded clay.

Expanded clay must be thoroughly compacted and leveled at the intended level. The first slab is installed in the closest

In this article I want to tell you and show you how to level a concrete floor quickly, efficiently and without large financial costs in almost any room. And anyone can do all this on their own.

Preparation of concrete surface and materials

Our floor looked like this

Let's start turning it into something suitable for . (or other covering at your discretion).

We clean the floor from dust and dirt in advance. We fill large chips and cracks with putty. We treat the entire surface of the concrete floor with a primer deep penetration. 24 hours after priming, you can begin leveling the concrete floor. It is recommended to glue the bottom of the walls with a special tape, but this is not necessary.

To level the existing one, we will use the self-leveling, quick-hardening Osnovit T-45 Skorline mixture.

Available in 20 kg packages. The cost of one package is approximately 250 rubles. In order to level the concrete floor, we needed to level and raise the floor by about 1 cm. Room area 12 square meters. The consumption of this mixture is small compared to other manufacturers - 13 kilograms of mixture per 1 square meter, with a layer of 1 cm. To level the concrete base in our case, you will need 156 kg of the mixture, which means 8 bags. Just in case, we bought another bag of mixture, but it was not useful. At a cost of 250 rubles per bag, we will spend 2000 rubles on a room. Agree, this is not much.

In addition, we will need a needle roller with a long handle. Its cost is about 250 rubles.

Drill with an attachment (attachment 250 rubles) for mixing the solution.

And containers for preparing the solution. We bought 2 containers of 20 liters each costing 130 rubles. We will also need so-called paint shoes. But, since the nearest stores did not have them, I made them with my own hands. To do this, you will need two planks the length and width of your foot, and 12 screws each. for each and regular tape. We screw the screws into the board; when needed, we tape it to the legs. The main thing is not to do this ahead of time, so as not to spoil it in the other rooms.

Procedure for leveling a concrete floor

So let's get started. You need to prepare the water in advance, as the mixture begins to thicken quite quickly. Water consumption is 7 liters per 1 bag.
The work will require at least 2 people; it is difficult to do it alone. To level the concrete floor, carefully pour the contents of one bag into a bucket with clean water at the rate of 1 kilogram of dry mixture per 350-370 ml clean water(for 1 bag – 7 liters of water). At the same time, stir the mixture with a mixer.
Mix until a homogeneous mass is formed. We wait 1-2 minutes.

At this time, pour the second bag into another container and mix, allowing the solution to settle in the first container. After 2-3 minutes, mix the solution in the first container again, and if there are no lumps, the solution is ready for use.

It is advisable to use the solution within 40 minutes. Be sure to stir immediately before use.

While one person prepares the concrete floor, the second person pours the finished mixture onto the floor, starting from the far end of the room, wearing paint shoes so that they can walk on the poured solution without leaving marks. Each portion of the poured solution must be rolled with a needle roller for better spreading and removal of possible air bubbles. And we do this with the entire quantity.

The entire filling took us 40-50 minutes. When the entire area of ​​the room is filled, roll it over several times with a needle roller. Removing air bubbles from the mixture to prevent further cracking of the floor. This mixture is good because you can walk on it in just 2!!! hours. And the thickness of the mixture is from 2 mm to 100 mm.

If the room is very hot, after 2-3 hours you need to cover the entire area of ​​the room with plastic wrap. This procedure is necessary in order to protect the surface from drying out too quickly. If this is not done, cracks may form.

Final works

After we have leveled the concrete floor:

Ceramic tiles can be laid after 3 days.

Parquet, laminate, carpet, linoleum, cork covering in 7 days.

The mixture finally dries out after 28 days. So, ours. This is what it looks like a few minutes after pouring is complete. Almost like a mirror.

And this is what it looks like after 2 hours.

You can already walk on it. This is especially true for walk-through rooms. A total of 12 square meters per room. m. we spent approximately 3,000 rubles and 2 hours of our time. Economical and very high quality.

In some places there were small bumps. This is a consequence of the fact that they were rolled poorly with a roller. But this defect can be easily removed with a large sandpaper or a stone.

Today, there are several techniques that tell you how to level the floor, even if it has huge unevenness. They are all tested in practice. What methods are most often used?

These include self-leveling floors using self-leveling mixtures, classic screed using cement-sand mortar. The choice of one or another method of leveling the floor depends on the unevenness of the surface, changes in height, and its slope.

Eg If there are differences in height on the floor of about 50 mm or more, it is advisable to use a screed. It allows you to make the floor even, even with very strong unevenness.

If a “dry” base is needed, raised floors made of plywood sheets on joists or chipboards are suitable. This method has an advantage. It lies in the fact that there is no need to wait completely dry floors, and only then proceed to finishing, namely laying the underlay and the laminate itself.

In other words, this method is the most suitable and clean among all those associated with leveling floors.

Naturally, each type of mixture has its own characteristics, which should be taken into account when studying their properties. If you plan to level a floor that has a wooden base, you will need mixtures that contain fiberglass.

Helpful advice ! In case of concrete base, it is better to buy quick-drying mixtures that include various additives.

A special case is made up of mixtures that are used to eliminate small defects in the base. They allow you to smooth out small irregularities, but it also happens that you have to fill cracks and recesses, the depth of which reaches 20-30 mm.

Be that as it may, the advantage of self-leveling mixtures is that they harden quickly. If the area of ​​the room whose floors you will level is greater than 8 m2, you will have to buy limiters and use them to divide the area into sectors.

This will make pouring the mixture easier.

Floor leveling methods How can I level a wooden floor before laying laminate? This method is called "dry" in this case

no floor screed required.

The base is cleaned of putty, paint and dust that could accidentally fall on it. Having purchased an unplaned board, build logs on the base. The board should have a size of 100*40 mm. The logs are secured using anchors at intervals of 300 mm.! As often as possible, measure the surface with a level in the horizontal plane to determine how level it is. If you notice a drop or slope, it can be removed by placing wooden wedges under the boards.

You can begin to create the sheathing: the logs should have crossbars that are attached using self-tapping screws. The interval is equal to the size of the sheets. Sheets of chipboard or plywood, previously treated, are laid on the logs antiseptic. Seal the seams with caulk.

« Wet" or self-leveling floor

It is advisable to use it if the height differences are insignificant (up to approximately 30 mm). In the same way, you can level the self-leveling mixture. The mixture is sold in the form of a dry powder, packaged in 25 kg bags.

It is intended for dilution with water in a certain proportion. Each manufacturer indicates the proportions on the bag, which are important not to “overdo” and not to pour more water than required. The “viability” of the solution is a maximum of 10 minutes.

Important! First of all, clean the surface from dust and other elements, apply a primer layer. If you see cracks, uneven surfaces and imperfections, seal them.

When the floor preparation is completed, you can begin mixing the self-leveling mortar, which is then poured onto the surface in parts and leveled using the rule. These actions must be carried out simultaneously, so make sure that someone will help you.

The self-leveling floor dries in about a day, but this time may be shorter. The main thing is to monitor the level of temperature and humidity in the room in which you have installed the self-leveling floor.

If you are thinking about how to level the floor with a leveler, consider the working conditions in which it can be used. Let's say that the presence of a draft and a change in temperature in the room are unacceptable, otherwise the floor may crack.

Leveling wooden floors

We suggest considering a method for leveling floors on which laminate or linoleum will be laid without removing the boards. If there are no cracks on the floor, there will be no extraneous sound in the form of a squeak when walking, and it is durable, only the boards have peeled off, it is easy to repair.

The main thing is to understand the quality of your flooring and joists.

So, the repair itself is as follows:

• First of all, the floor is leveled - putty work is carried out, OSB boards or plywood, a screed is constructed.
• Then it is carried out fine finishing- fits flooring.
• To clarify how uneven the floor is, marks are made on the walls, corners and the middle of the walls.
• If during measurements you notice a difference in height of about 5 mm, you can assume that the floor of your room is ideal. There is no need for additional alignment.

You can only do one type of work- putty the floor surface acrylic sealant, which has good ductility. But before you do this, prime the surface.

If, after leveling work, you want to lay linoleum or carpets on the floor, it is best to sand the putty surface.

Not applicable in every case acrylic putty. Sometimes you will have to apply a layer of putty, which contains PVA glue. In truth, there is one drawback expressed by the strong adhesion of the putty, which will make it difficult to apply an even layer.

Remember The more layer of putty you apply, the longer it will take to dry.

Then, a sheet of plywood with a thickness of up to 20 mm (possibly GVL) is laid on the prepared floor surface. If GVL is used, the top of the profile will act as lags for the floor. If the width of the board is about 200 mm and the profile is distributed evenly, plywood with a thickness of 8-10 mm is quite enough.

If the difference in floor height of 2 mm does not please you, you will need to build a support for a new base, which will have the same level. You can do this as follows:

1. The tape support will be logs made of beams. This method suitable if the difference in floor level is in the range of 30-100 mm.
2. At the same time, “shabashkas” - linings made of pieces of timber, having different thickness.
3. The gap between this type of joist depends on the thickness of the materials you choose: for example, if it is plywood, the thickness of which is 14 mm, or fiberboard sheets 18 mm thick, the gap will be 350 mm. If the sheets are thicker, the distance can be increased to 500 mm.
4. They can be fastened both crosswise and lengthwise. The main thing is to ensure accurate marking of the sheets for drilling holes.
5. “Shabashki”, they are also point supports. This method is acceptable in cases of small differences, since the point support is less reliable compared to tape fastening.
6. Point supports are installed more often - using a 350 * 350 mm mesh type (if the plywood is 14 mm thick, chipboard is 16 mm) or a 450 * 450 mm mesh (if the chipboard is 24 mm thick, plywood is 18 mm.

On last stage a screed is constructed, it is made on the base of a wooden floor. Often, many people use the well-known cement-sand screed, it is used only in cases where the wooden floor has reinforced concrete floor.

In other cases, it is better to use a dry self-leveling mixture, which contains special additives - plasticizers. They will make your screed plastic and elastic. These types of screeds should be applied at a thickness of about 1 cm.

Important! The surface you will be working with must be pre-reinforced and primed. There should also be a layer of waterproofing material on it.

You can now begin laying or laying the final surface. Don't forget about such a thing as underground ventilation. If available ventilation grille, even though it is old, do not cover it up or cover it with wallpaper. It will come in handy. You ask what?

It's simple, it will allow the floor under the finishing to be ventilated, therefore, it will not rot.

Leveling for laying laminate flooring

There are several ways to level the floor for laying laminate - they are all similar, the principle is the same. To begin with, the difference in floor height is determined, the base surface is prepared for leveling, all irregularities are sanded and removed (cracks and depressions are sealed, the surface is sanded).

It may be that the surface distortion is slight (about 20 mm), in which case a leveling mixture is poured.

Helpful information ! If the floor in your apartment has significant differences in height, more effort will be required: remove the old floor covering, clean the base of dirt, and prime it. Only after priming and drying the soil should you start pouring the self-leveling mixture.

After taking measurements and receiving disappointing results, which indicate that it will be necessary to good alignment floor under the laminate, install the beacons at the level required to create a flat floor (plasterboard guides are not a bad option, since they are initially flat).

The beacons are installed in such a way that they coincide with the mark along the perimeter of the room, and the interval should be 600-800 mm. It is best to fasten the beacons with self-tapping screws. You can fill.

The construction mixture is poured between the beacons; if necessary, level it. After the screed has dried, begin finishing work.

I want to note, that not in all cases it is necessary to use a screed to level the floor. In some, you can use a method such as leveling the floor under laminate or linoleum using cement particle boards, they are also DSP.

The base is prepared according to the same principle as in the case of a screed. Only instead of using beacons, they serve as the basis for the future floor construction boards. They are aligned on a plane building level and are attached to the base of the floor. And they are already stacked on them DSP sheets, fastened with self-tapping screws.

The gaps between them are filled with sealant. At each stage, measure the surface with a building level. That’s it, the surface leveling is complete and you can start laying the laminate. Leveling for laying linoleum

Not in all cases it is necessary to level the floor using the “wet” method, that is, using cement screed. In some cases, it is enough to use a leveling method called “dry”.

The basis of this method is plywood sheets, the thickness of which is from 12 mm. They have sufficient strength and moisture-resistant properties - this option is more acceptable if the base of your floors consists of wooden structure.

Plywood provides excellent resistance to deflections and bends that can occur when walking on the floor, installing furniture and creating a general interior.

And the price of this material is lower compared to others. Plywood sheets have proven themselves as a material for leveling uneven boards.

The attractiveness of the flooring depends on whether the base remains uneven or other defects or not. If its surface is not perfectly smooth, then the floor covering will reflect all the flaws of the base: potholes, drops, roughness and other imperfections. Therefore, before flooring finishing coating It is necessary to make the base even and smooth. Today we will talk about the technology for leveling a concrete floor in an apartment.

Floor leveling methods

There are several ways to level the floor:

• using cement or concrete screed;
• using self-leveling mixtures (self-leveling floor);
• leveling the floor with plywood.

• Clear the base of any debris.
• Fill cracks and cracks with putty.
• Prime the surface. The primer helps the self-leveling mixture adhere better to the surface and spread more evenly across the floor.
• Mix the solution according to the instructions, pouring the dry mixture into the water, and not vice versa, so that there are no lumps.

The solution remains fluid for half an hour. If the solution begins to harden, then it is no longer suitable for leveling the base, and add water to ready mixture it is forbidden.

These include:

Hydraulic level - helps to determine the unevenness of the base in large rooms. The measurement is made by the water level in it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the working tube of the device is not filled with air, which will impair its operation. Using a hydraulic level, you can accurately measure with only small errors.


Laser level – accurate and easy to use. The error is small, only 1-2mm/m. The laser level is harmful to the eyes, so you should wear safety glasses before using it.

Level– used by construction professionals because this surveying tool requires knowledge and skill in its use.

Today we talked about technologies for leveling the floor in an apartment, about the devices and tools needed to measure the curvature of the floor. Which technology you use will depend on the conditions, shortcomings, and unevenness of your foundation. We hope that a smooth and beautiful floor will delight you long time, attracting the attention of friends and acquaintances, causing their admiring glances.

In order to level the floor and then finish it, we need to thoroughly prepare its base. Few owners can boast of having completely flat floors in their apartment. We have floors not only with an uneven surface, but also with an uneven plane, and therefore, this has a very negative effect on the future floor covering, and also negatively affects the operation of the room. Well, let’s devote our entire article today to the initial stage of floor repair – leveling. Next, we will look at why it is necessary to level the floor, what building mixtures can be used to level the floor, and also consider ways to level the floor with your own hands.

Why is it necessary to level the floor?

Many beginners ask the question: why level the floor? The answer to this question consists of several factors. It is wrong to perform any floor finishing on an uneven and unprepared surface.

Firstly, if you are laying, for example, then uneven floors will be immediately visible on its surface. When laying on uneven surface laminate or parquet, it can creak in the area of ​​unevenness or simply begin to deform and crack, especially at the joints.

Secondly, an uneven floor has a negative impact on furniture when it is skewed towards the bottom.

Thirdly, if you decide to tackle the floor, then it must be done thoroughly, and not, as people say: “a blunder.”

You can level the floor yourself, and for this you don’t have to hire a team of builders and incur unnecessary waste, because you can easily do this work yourself; there is absolutely nothing complicated about it.

Preparing the floor for leveling

Of course, before leveling the floor, it must be cleaned and everything necessary for further work measurements and calculations. Due to the fact that preparatory stage The floor before leveling plays a very important role; we will dwell on it in more detail.

Initially, we must remove the existing floor covering: linoleum, boards, floor tiles, baseboards, etc. After you have dismantled the old flooring material, the floor must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust.

Then, using two levels, long and small, we begin to measure the surface level and plane of the floor. What is the difference between a surface and a plane is something you need to know for any leveling work. The surface of the floor, probably everyone understands that this is the level of the floor itself, but the plane of the floor, remember the geometry course, is the location of the slab itself, or rather its evenness. In other words, we can say that the floor surface is the surface of the floor slab, and the plane of the slab is how correctly (even or crooked) it is laid.

To begin with, we take a long level and determine the so-called overall picture from it, so that we know what we have to work with. Thus, using this level, we determine the plane of the slab and its evenness of laying. Knowing the skills of our builders, and how interesting they were in building houses, very often our floor slab can be laid crookedly, which means we will need a lot of leveling mixture for that part of the slope. Next, using a long and small levels We check the floor surface itself and any unevenness on it. When we have made all the level measurements, we make a decision regarding the method of leveling the floor, which we will discuss below.

After you have taken measurements, consider laying any communications in the floor. Such communications can be pipes autonomous heating, electrical wiring, television and network cable etc., all wires must be laid in a corrugation.

The final stage of preparation for leveling the floor will be priming its surface. For some reason, some people neglect this issue, either for the sake of economy, or because they do not understand the importance this process. Firstly, the primer will provide high-quality and reliable connection cement screed and floor. Secondly, the primer will prevent the possible formation of cracks on the leveling screed, and also promotes waterproofing. To prime the surface, carefully clean the floor surface, after which, using a roller, thoroughly treat the floor with primer, not sparing it. After 2-4 hours, depending on the room temperature, the primer should dry.

What types of floor leveling are there?

Today, 3 types of floor leveling are used:

1. Leveling with self-leveling floor;


2. Leveling using a leveling solution, “according to beacons”;


3. Leveling with wooden joists.

It is in the order in which we have listed the methods for leveling floors that they are most frequently used. Let's look at the features and differences of these floor leveling methods.

Self-leveling floor

The self-leveling floor is made using an appropriate mixture, which is prepared in special proportions with water in order to ensure its uniform spreading around the entire perimeter of the room. So you don't need to produce difficult work with kneading cement mixture, its uniform distribution and alignment by rule.

This method will help you solve the problem of an uneven floor if there are minor unevenness on its surface or the plane of the slab moves slightly to the side. Based on the depth of the unevenness and the “leaving” of the slab, it is necessary to calculate the level of filling the floor, while keeping in mind that the self-leveling floor should be from 3 to 35 mm in height. Accordingly, if you need a screed over 35mm to level the floor, then this option is not suitable for you. In other cases, we recommend using this particular method of leveling the floor, due to its simplicity and low cost.

Alignment "by beacons"

A distinctive feature of this method of leveling the floor from the previous one is that a completely different leveling procedure is used here; first, so-called beacons are built along which the floor is actually leveled, that is, the beacons are the reference level, the height of the new floor.

Using this method, you can level out significant unevenness in the surface and plane of the floor. In addition, this method is suitable if you want to lay any communications into the floor, and if so, then they must be hidden under a sufficient layer of screed, which can be solved by leveling with a leveling solution.

Leveling with wooden joists

Unlike previous methods, this method does not use cement and other leveling mixtures. The alignment procedure consists of installing a few centimeters apart on special anchors. wooden slats, to adjustable height. This way, you can raise the floor level to the height you need, and install large communication structures under the floor, or perform inter-floor insulation.

This type of floor leveling is suitable if you have a cold floor, most often this happens in private homes or on the first floors apartment buildings, due to which there remains space between the slab and the floor surface, which can be used for laying insulation. Also this method perfect solution, if ventilation, drainage and other dimensional communications are planned under the floor.

Floor leveling methods

Once you have decided on the method of leveling the floor, having completed all the preparatory steps in advance, we proceed to the leveling procedure. We will look at each alignment procedure in more detail.

Self-leveling floor leveling

As mentioned earlier, the self-leveling floor includes quite simple procedure alignment. Self-leveling floors are a self-leveling mixture, due to its rare consistency, it spreads over the entire floor area, thereby more mixture flows into the depressions and depressions, and less into the sagging areas.

To make a self-leveling floor, you need to purchase a special mixture, where it will be written: “for self-leveling floor.” On the packaging of this mixture it will be written in what proportions it is diluted. To dilute the mixture, you will need a container, preferably a plastic bucket, as it will be more convenient to pour the leveling mixture. Let's pour required amount dry mixture, pour the specified amount of water and mix the bulk substance in this container.

Next, when the filling mixture is ready, we gradually pour the substance from the far corner, moving towards the exit. The mixture should spread over the entire area of ​​the room. When the mixture has spread, take a needle roller and use it to get rid of possible air bubbles that may be in bulk mixture. Roll out very carefully, in different directions several times, this is necessary not only to eliminate air bubbles inside the mixture, but also to evenly distribute the filling mixture. The height of the needles in the roller should be greater than the height of the bulk mixture layer. It is worth noting that if you use this method to level the floor in big room, then the filling must be done by first dividing the room into sectors, but at the same time try to do everything quickly so that all the sectors are connected together.

The advantage of a self-leveling floor is that it dries quickly and within a few hours you will be able to carry out further repair work.

Now for the calculations. If the area of ​​your room is 8 square meters, then for the self-leveling floor you will need at least 6 bags of leveling mixture.

Leveling the floor using a leveler

Now let's look at the second method of leveling the floor - using beacons. When the floor surface is prepared: cleaned and treated with a primer, we take special slats that will serve as beacons. Why “beacons” and what kind of slats are they? Let's start in order.

Since for this leveling method we will use a thick leveling mixture, it will not spread on its own, and therefore we will need to level it ourselves. If you think about it logically, how can you level the room in this case? To do this, so-called beacons are laid along the room, according to the level of which we will level the floor. Can be used as beacons as perforated metal corners, and any similar even metal material, but of course, preference is best given to perforated corners.

So, to lay the beacons, we retreat a few centimeters from the parallel wall, in meter increments, and lay them across the room. We fix the beacons themselves to the floor using construction mixture: alabaster, or cement. With slap movements, using a spatula, we apply a small amount of the mixture in a row, the layer of which depends on the new floor level. Then we place the beacon on top and level it. After making sure that it is laid evenly, we fill the voids between the floor and the lighthouse with this mixture. Then we carry out the same procedure with the remaining beacons. When the beacons are securely fixed, we begin work.

From the far corner, in the opening between the first and second beacons, we throw a special cement mortar, so that it is slightly higher than the level of the beacons and, using the rule, move it to the sides, towards you, and then level it away from you, leaning the rule on the beacons this area. Use a section no more than a meter long for leveling. Then, in the same way, we level the rest of the floor.

This floor will take at least 3 days to dry. As for the amount of mixture used, it is very difficult to name it, since it will depend on the area of ​​the room and the increased floor height.

Leveling the floor with wooden joists

Well last option leveling the floor - using slats. In order to properly level the floor with wooden joists yourself, you will need special anchor bolts. Such a bolt consists of the anchor itself, which is inserted into the concrete floor and tightened with a nut, and a long threaded base onto which a fixing nut is screwed and a washer is placed, then inserted through a pre-made hole wooden joists, put a washer on top of the lag on the anchor and secure it with a nut on top.

Thus, we install the logs on anchors, which are installed in increments of 50-60 cm from each other, and then use a level to adjust their evenness. There should be a distance of about 20-30cm between the logs themselves. It is necessary to make special grooves in the upper part of the joists so that the nut does not protrude beyond the surface of the joists.

If necessary, you can lay it under the joists thermal insulation material, for example glass wool. Such a floor will be perfectly insulated and has good sound insulation. On top of the joists, the surface of the new floor itself is made from plywood, or from chipboard sheets.

Frequently asked questions by beginners when leveling the floor:

How to level a concrete floor

If the surface of the concrete floor is flat and you need to perform high-quality leveling concrete surface floor, then the self-leveling floor is the most best option to solve this problem.

How to level the floor under linoleum and parquet

Made from these materials requires a perfectly flat surface, so it is again recommended to use leveling with a self-leveling floor. If the floor is very uneven, then its leveling can be done using a leveling solution. If for some reason the surface is not level enough, you can make a second layer of self-leveling flooring to achieve a high-quality, level surface.

How to level a bathroom floor

If you are puzzling over the question: how to level the floor under the tiles in the bathroom, then there may be 2 ways to do this. First way: produce preliminary alignment floor surface and directly on given surface lay tiles. The second method: leveling the floor directly when laying the tiles, that is, when you apply a large layer of adhesive mixture to the floor or tile (depending on the laying technology) and level the floor level using the already laid tiles.

Video instructions for leveling the floor: