Methods for attaching MDF panels to the wall. How to attach MDF panels to a wall on a wooden frame. To cover walls with MDF panels you will need

If your apartment has not been renovated for a long time, and the walls have lost their appearance over many years, MDF panels will be the best replacement for wallpaper or tiles. They are ideal for interior decoration, as they have an attractive appearance and are made from environmentally friendly materials. In addition, high-quality installation of panels can be performed by anyone with basic technical and construction skills. Today we will talk about the features of finishing a room with MDF panels and provide step-by-step installation instructions.

What is MDF

MDF is a panel finishing material obtained from woodworking waste through dry hot pressing of fine chips. When heated, wood releases a substance called lignin, which acts as a glue. The structure of MDF resembles felt made from wood fibers. The main advantage of such panels is their high moisture resistance. As a result, they are often used for covering walls, floors and ceilings in rooms with high air humidity, for example, in a bathroom or toilet. However, due to its attractive appearance, such finishing is often widely used in halls and offices. Surfaces lined with MDF in the corridor and loggia also look great. The cost of the material compared to tiles is low, and the walls will be perfectly smooth.

If you decide to install the panels yourself, then first you should prepare the necessary tools and materials for the work.

What you will need for installation

For high-quality finishing of MDF walls you will need the following materials and tools:

• Insulation (mineral wool, penofol, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). We'll look at each type in more detail a little later.
• MDF panels. There are many models that differ in thickness, color and structure, so the choice is yours.
• Slats or galvanized profiles for installing sheathing. Width and thickness – 40 and 20 mm, respectively. The length is selected depending on the size of the wall.
• Self-tapping screws are needed to fasten the panels to the sheathing.
• Clamps are special elements necessary for fastening panels to each other and to the sheathing. Often available complete with panels.
• A plumb line is a nut or any other small metal object tied to a fishing line or thread.
• Building level.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil or marker.
• Plane.
• Metal corner (metal square). Needed for cutting pieces of panels for slopes.
• An electric jigsaw is used to cut MDF. You can also use a hacksaw or circular saw. The latter, due to its compactness, is very convenient to use. It can cut both wood and metal - simply by changing the complete circles.
• Hammer drill with concrete drill.
• A screwdriver, drill or screwdriver with a screw attachment.

Toolkit in the photo

Preparing the walls

Preparing walls before installing sheathing

Before you begin facing work, you need to make sure that the room is suitable for installing panels. If strong swelling of wallpaper, drywall, or peeling of plaster is visible on the walls, then you should first clean them of old finishing materials. Also, do not forget about baseboards and decorative corners (if any) used to hide the joints of walls and ceilings.

Helpful advice: It is advisable to remove the old finish completely, that is, up to the main wall. This way you will save on fasteners and reveal hidden surface damage.

When the walls are cleaned, you can proceed directly to installing the sheathing under the MDF panel, but first, let's find out what types of lathing there are.

Types of sheathing

The most popular technologies for installing MDF wall panels today are:

1. Wooden sheathing. This design is easy to make and does not require a large number of fasteners. However, wooden sheathing needs to be pre-impregnated with a special agent in order to prevent the appearance of fungus, rot, and mold. If the room has high humidity, then you should not use wooden sheathing in this case.
2. Sheathing made of galvanized profiles. Often, metal structures are used as sheathing for drywall, although they are quite suitable for covering walls with MDF panels. But galvanized profiles are not suitable for forming a frame on the floor due to their low strength. As for the ceiling, a structure made of light metal rather than timber is just right here.

Installation

The installation of lattice structures made of metal and wood has several differences. For example, when using galvanized profiles, they should be fastened only with powerful and long self-tapping screws. Using dowel-nails in this case does not make sense - the tenacity between the profile and the fastener itself will be lost.

The most important point on which the strength of the fit of the fasteners and the entire structure depends is the fixation of the body of the self-tapping screw or dowel-nail (with wooden sheathing) at least 35 mm in the wall. For example, if the thickness of the rail or profile is 20 mm, and the MDF panel is 10 mm, then the depth of the groove for the mounting socket and, accordingly, the fasteners should be about 65 mm, or preferably more. The diameter of the fasteners is selected from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the density of the wall. The stronger it is, the smaller the diameter of the screw should be. All fasteners are equipped with a special socket. When drilling a groove, the diameter must be compared with the diameter of the body of the socket, and not its head, otherwise the safety margin will be insufficient.

Installation of a wooden structure

Installation of wooden sheathing

We start with the installation of vertical racks. We install slats in each corner in pairs so that they form a right angle, as well as along the edges of door and window openings along the entire height of the room. To ensure that the racks take an exactly vertical position, we use a plumb line. Now in order:

1. We apply the strip to the wall and outline it on either side with a pencil or marker.
2. We make holes for fasteners using a hammer drill with a concrete drill. For structural strength, the drilling pitch should be in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 m.
3. We drive the sockets for the fasteners into the holes and make marks of their location on the rack itself.
4. We drill holes in the rail with a diameter slightly smaller than the mounting hole.
5. We install the racks in place using self-tapping screws or dowel nails.
6. We install horizontal bars in the same way. The step remains the same. Don't forget to decorate the slopes with slats.
7. At the end, we remove the ledge elements at the joints of the structure using a plane.

Fastening the metal base

The procedure for installing a structure made of galvanized profiles is completely similar to the above. First, the racks are placed in the corners of the room and in the places of openings for marking the walls. Afterwards, holes are made for fastening and installation of vertical profiles. UD type profiles are used as racks. In the marked places, horizontal profiles of the CD type are inserted into them in accordance with a step of 0.4–0.5 m. Afterwards, the transverse strips are attached to the racks and the wall. The elements of the metal structure are connected to each other using ordinary self-tapping screws. As was said earlier, such a sheathing needs to be attached to the wall only with powerful fasteners (dowel-nails will not work).

Helpful advice: for cutting metal profiles, it is recommended to use a grinder or a hand-held circular saw with an appropriate attachment. The efficiency of a jigsaw even with a metal file is much less.

About thermal insulation

Installation of insulation

The installation of the sheathing is complete, but before moving on to the installation of MDF panels, the walls should be insulated. This will allow you to save a lot on heating the room, and also increase its thermal insulation. In addition, insulation additionally prevents the formation of mold, mildew and moisture in the voids of the sheathing. It is recommended to fill the cells in the sheathing with one of the following insulation materials:

• Penofol is a relatively new multilayer insulation material that consists of polyethylene foam and polished foil with a reflectance coefficient of 97%. It is fireproof, environmentally friendly, has good noise insulation and low vapor permeability.
• Mineral wool. The material has gained great popularity due to its high thermal insulation and moisture resistant properties.
• Styrofoam. Air is the best heat insulator, and this material consists of 98% of it. All this is thanks to the polystyrene granules that are formed in the foam during the production process. The material has high moisture and vapor resistance.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. This type of foam is obtained by melting with extrusion. The seal is not cheap, but it fully justifies its price. The material has excellent thermal insulation, as well as a high compression ratio. Therefore, it is often used to insulate floors.

Installation of this thermal insulation material is very simple:

1. Sheets are cut from a roll of insulation in accordance with the cell sizes (lathing pitch).
2. After this, they are attached to the wall using construction foam or silicone glue.
3. The resulting protrusions of the polyurethane foam are removed using a utility knife.

After insulating the walls, we move on to the most interesting part - the technology of wall cladding with panels.

Installation of MDF panels

Installation of panels

Laying the product should start from the corner. The installation procedure is as follows:

1. We apply the panel to the corner and check whether it fits tightly to the sheathing. Then we evaluate the evenness of the surface using a building level.
2. If all is well, from the corner side along the entire height of the structure we fasten the panel with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
3. Subsequent strips are connected using clamps, which are inserted into the groove of the panel. It is advisable to fix these staples with nails to the sheathing.
4. We slide the ridge of the next one into the groove of the first corner panel. In this case, it is necessary to control the tightness of their fit. If cracks are found, you should slightly trim the ridge of one panel with a knife and try to put it in place again.
5. We attach the MDF plank to the sheathing using self-tapping screws along the entire height of the structure.
6. The installation process is then repeated.
7. The last panel must be pressed all the way to the penultimate one and secured at the free edge with self-tapping screws.

Important: If the last plank does not fit into the remaining space, you can still carefully shorten it in width using a jigsaw.

Slope finishing

This procedure is similar to installing panels. In addition, when finishing slopes, there are two decoration options. The first is to install the panel lengthwise, the second is to install it across. If the slope is small and its width does not exceed 1.8 times the width of the finishing panel, transverse cladding is performed. For wide slopes, you can resort to any of the methods.

Useful information: slopes sheathed across, with alternating dark and light tones, have an excellent appearance.

The finished look is given by fittings, thanks to which you can hide the corner joints between the panels. Folding corners cover up defects well. You need to apply glue to them from the inside and press the product tightly to the sheathing in the corner. To hide the joints with the floor and ceiling, you can use a plinth.

Video instructions for working with wall panels

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing MDF panels, and this work can be done without the help of a builder. We hope that our article will help you produce high-quality finishing of the room, which will not only insulate your home, but will also last for many years.

When renovating a house, you always want to kill two birds with one stone and combine high quality materials with low cost. At first glance, such an idea seems utopian, but what if we told you that it is quite real?

In this article we will not only talk about how to cover walls with MDF panels, but also show a short video on how to cover walls with MDF.

Before moving on to a detailed answer to the question of how to cover walls with MDF panels, let's take a little time to give some useful tips. In order for the repair to be of high quality and last for many years, it must be done in compliance with all rules and regulations.

Often, such rules are neglected, and then, when the finishing begins to deteriorate, they complain about low-quality materials and everything else.

Most often in such situations, the problem lies with the person who did the repairs, so here are some practical tips:

• Before covering the walls with MDF panels, be sure to prepare the base. The walls need additional protection to prevent fungus from forming on their surface. This can be done using a special deep penetration primer or impregnation for concrete or stone surfaces.
• If the sheathing for the panels is made of wooden blocks, treat them all with wood impregnations, which protect the bars from moisture absorption and from bark beetles. There is no need to skimp on impregnation; the better the wooden guides are protected, the longer the finish will last, and it will not have to be edited.

• In fact, walls covered with MDF do not need additional protection, but if you are installing them in, for example, a kitchen (see Kitchen wall decoration: choosing a material), where the environment is traditionally difficult, you might consider varnishing the panels. This will not affect the appearance in any way, but will provide additional protection from moisture and mechanical influences.
• Wall covering with MDF panels can be done in several ways. We’ll talk about this in more detail below, but for now we’ll just say that you need to decide on the method even before purchasing the material. The fact is that the panels may differ in the groove configuration, and for example, MDF for fastening with a stapler is not suitable for fixing with clamps.
• Modern manufacturers produce a wide variety of panels that differ in quality characteristics. There are laminated and moisture resistant. Of course, the price for them is also different, but in some cases there is no point in overpaying, for example, if you are covering the walls of a bedroom (see Decorating the bedroom: looking for options), then spending on laminated MDF will be simply pointless.

Advice! If you decide to do the repairs yourself, before you start work, be sure to watch how to cover walls with MDF panels video. This will help you understand the essence of the process and glean some subtleties that we cannot mention due to the scope of the article.

So, we have decided on the intricacies of the process, which means we can proceed directly to installation, and it begins not with the panels themselves, but with careful preparation of the surface and the manufacture of the sheathing.

Preparatory work

In fact, covering walls with MDF is not difficult; it is much more difficult to prepare the walls and assemble the sheathing. The subsequent quality of the finish and how long it will last without alteration and restoration will depend on this.

First of all, we prepare all the necessary tools so that we don’t have to look for them throughout the house later. Everything should be at hand, and then the process will go much faster and easier.

So, to finish the panels we will need the following set of tools:

• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Building level.
• Hammer.
• Wood saw.
• A hammer drill and a drill for it, with a diameter corresponding to the selected dowels.
• Brushes or paint roller.
• Construction stapler and staples for it.

Now that everything is at hand, let's move on to the next stage.

Wall marking

Before you cover the wall with MDF and make the sheathing, you need to clearly decide which way your panels will go, horizontally or vertically. It is necessary to decide at this stage, since the installation takes place in a perpendicular order.

If you have decided on this issue, then you can proceed to applying markings. We will talk about vertical installation of panels, since it is considered more common.

First of all, we need to secure the outer bars, and to do this we find the lowest point from the ceiling and from the floor. We retreat approximately five centimeters from these points, and using a building level we draw a line along the entire perimeter of the room.

Now we have the extreme lines, and, starting from them, we divide the entire wall into equal sections, approximately 40-60 centimeters each. This distance is enough so that the panels do not sag and stand level.

Now that all the lines have been drawn, we place marks on each of them approximately 50 centimeters apart. At these points, the guide battens will be fixed to the wall, so you shouldn’t waste time on trifles; the more often the fasteners are in place, the stronger the structure will be.

Construction of sheathing

Instructions on how to properly assemble the sheathing are clearly shown in the video in this article. Be sure to watch it until the end to clearly understand the whole process, and in the meantime we will continue.

In those places where we placed marks on the horizontal lines, using a hammer drill we drill holes of the required depth. Now, using dowels, we nail the metal braces to the wall, which will hold the guides, and bend their ends perpendicular to the wall.

To make the sheathing, you can use three materials, each of which has its own pros and cons:

1. Wooden beam. The cheapest, but at the same time weak material. As you know, wood is susceptible to many negative influences, and subsequently certain difficulties may arise with it.
2. Metal profile for drywall. Metal is more resistant to various influences, but upon contact with moisture, it begins to become covered with rust, which after a certain time can appear on the surface of the panels.
3. Galvanized profile. The most expensive material of all listed, but at the same time the most stable. The galvanized profile is not afraid of contact with water and easily tolerates temperature changes, so it can be used in rooms with an aggressive environment, such as the kitchen or bathroom.

Important! If you need to cut a galvanized profile, under no circumstances use a grinder for this. At high speeds, the entire protective coating will simply burn out, and the profile will remain unprotected.

Panel installation

So, our sheathing is ready, which means we have directly approached the question of how to cover the walls with MDF panels. In fact, the worst is already behind us and the process of installing panels is the easiest stage. You can start installation from any side that is convenient for you, there are no specific rules here, we just take the panel, place it against the corner and, using a stapler, through the ridge, fasten it to the sheathing.

One of the photos shows how the installation begins, and that the next bracket is driven into the ridge. We remind you that we are talking about how to sheathe walls with MDF boards using a stapler, and if you choose clamps, the technology will be slightly different, and you can read more about this in one of the articles on our website.

Next, insert the next panel into the groove, the one we just secured and repeat all the steps. This way, all the walls are sewn up, and there shouldn’t be any difficulties at this stage. The walls are ready, and all that remains is to fix the decorative corners. They are mounted with PVA glue. Everything is simple and clear, so we won’t even focus on this.

And in conclusion

Well, now we have figured out the question of how to sheathe walls with MDF. As you can see, there is nothing complicated or impossible here. The main thing is not to be afraid of difficulties, and to boldly get down to work, and if you still have questions, then you can read other articles on our website, where, we are sure, you will find answers to all your questions.

How to mount MDF panels to the wall, and on what basis, the decision must be made taking into account the characteristics of the wall geometry, the size of the room, the presence of communications and constant heating. Despite their enormous popularity, MDF wall boards are quite picky about operating conditions, so you should not fasten them with the first method that comes to hand, so as not to re-lay the finish a second time.

Dimensions of MDF panels

Often, consultants of trading companies present MDF boards as a lightweight version of particle boards, especially if you decipher the English abbreviation. Accordingly, it is recommended to fasten them in the same way as in the case of using chipboard. In fact, MDF panels are significantly different in structure and production method from particle board, which allows the material to be attached at lower cost and at higher speed.

There are only three main differences:

• Thin MDF boards are made from recycled cellulose fiber, which contains virtually no polysugars - a staple food for bacteria, fungus and rodents. Chipboard uses ordinary chips filled with phenol-formaldehyde resin, so they are secured with special tongues;
• The boards are made by pressing wood fiber mass with the addition of hydrogen peroxide. At a temperature of 250 o C, lignin and part of the cellulose are welded by the remains of caramelized polysaccharides into a dense fiber mass. In thick slabs, the MDF core is additionally impregnated with polymer resin, which makes it possible to fasten without the risk of delamination of the material;
• The bending strength of the panel is only slightly inferior to plywood with greater ductility and resistance to moisture. Most brands of MDF can be mounted on walls even in rooms with low levels of ventilation.

The difference, at first glance, is insignificant, but it is the strength and elasticity of the cellulose fiber base of the MDF panel that makes it possible to fasten the cladding slabs using end locks.

Even with a strong temperature difference, the MDF panel shows a level of expansion that is significantly lower than that of plastic or conventional wooden lining, so the material can be fixed with smaller gaps, which is especially important for boards of medium and large thickness.

What sizes are most popular?

Three size groups are used for wall cladding:

• Thin slabs, size group 5-9 mm thick, width 153, 198, 200,325 and 2070 mm;
• Medium MDF panels, thickness 10-18 mm, width 2070 mm;
• Oversized slabs, thickness 19-38 mm, width 2070 mm.

There are no restrictions on external dimensions, and the maximum thickness of the slabs is limited by the pressing capabilities of up to 40 mm. Double-layer MDF panels with a maximum thickness of up to 60 mm are also produced, used for the manufacture of reusable formwork and roofing lining. But the quality of the outer surface of such slabs is quite low, so they are not used for wall decoration.

Installation of MDF panels

Pressed cellulose fibers retain heat and absorb noise much better than plastic or wood. In addition, the MDF panel has a certain anisotropy of properties; it can be cut and processed in almost any order. Attaching the panels is easy and even a novice tiler can do it.

For home purposes, panels can be mounted in three ways:

• Lay the slabs on the glue;
• Mount the cladding on a wooden or metal frame;
• Installation of MDF panels using the hanging method.

The latter case is used as an exceptional way of cladding walls in a house made of timber or rounded logs. It is necessary to mount MDF boards on a ceiling suspension profile with a small gap between the floor and the lower edge of the board. The cladding ends up suspended on the profile, and as the walls shrink, the MDF sags along with the timber material.

It is clear that for a wooden house it would be more preferable to use narrow slabs, 190-200 mm wide, while it is better to mount MDF in the vertical direction. If it is not known exactly about the planned amount of wall shrinkage, then it is best to attach the decorative trim with a gap increased by 2-3 cm. Firstly, this ensures that if excessive shrinkage occurs, the floor will not tear the slabs off the walls, and secondly, the gaps will ensure a normal level of ventilation and ventilation of the space between the panels and the wall.

Installation on a metal frame

Installing panels on a supporting frame made of galvanized profile is recognized by experts as the most rational and reliable way of fastening any cellulose-fiber materials. Even heavy slabs with a density of up to 1.5-1.8 g/cm 3 can be attached to a metal frame without any problems. The metal will not suffer from condensation or soaking of the walls as a result of burst pipes, water leaks in the apartment on the floor above, or a break in the roof.

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of the starting profile and side strips. MDF panels are light in weight, so it is enough to install a number of vertical profiles No. 50 in increments of 40-50 cm. Using a galvanized U-profile makes it possible to attach MDF to the walls of a room approximately two to three times faster than any other method.

Two or three drops of silicone applied to the profile will even out the load on the wall and will prevent the cladding from flapping in a strong wind if there is a ventilation gap behind the decorative MDF lamellas.

Installation on a wooden frame

The easiest way is to mount MDF panels on a wooden frame. There are two options for wall cladding using cellulose fiber panels. It all depends on the size of the room and the condition of the walls.

If a slight reduction in space due to the sheathing is not critical, a frame made of wooden slats is sewn onto the walls using metal hanger holders. For small and small rooms, most often it is necessary to partially cut off and knock down a layer of plaster in order to level the surface along a vertical plumb line and make it as smooth as possible.

In any case, the starting strip is initially laid on the floor and under the ceiling. Using a long building level, the installation points of the hangers are marked on the wall and the minimum required overhang of the side lobes of the fasteners is determined.

If you plan to install horizontal MDF slats, the supporting strips are mounted vertically. To install full-size panels with a width of more than 200 mm, the walls are sewn in both directions. Each wooden plank of the sheathing is aligned along the starting guides and fixed with the suspension petals using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

For relatively level and dry brick, concrete or block walls, the sheathing can be attached directly to the wall using dowels. In this case, more work is added, since each plank before fastening has to be adjusted for a long time using shim washers in order to maintain a single vertical plane. But you can save 3-4 cm of internal space, which can be very useful, for example, when decorating the walls of a small bathroom or corridor.

Glue installation

Using lathing or a load-bearing frame always eats up an additional 3-7 cm of space on each wall. The use of a frame system is considered a good solution, but it is not at all necessary to fence a frame jungle if the walls of the room for future cladding with MDF panels turn out to be smooth, without serious defects and deviations from the vertical.

In this case, it is enough to clean the walls, prime them with acrylic primer and apply a thin layer of insulating putty. The lime sublayer will help to further level the walls and improve the adherence of MDF boards to the supporting surface.

Laying panels on walls using glue is carried out in two options:

• Each MDF is glued to the wall with one lamella, from ceiling to floor, with fixation along the end edge using self-tapping screws and plastic plugs;
• The material is laid on the wall in horizontal stripes from corner to corner after assembling and gluing in the corner and edge parts.

If the slats are glued directly to the wall, then the end joints are not glued or treated with sealing materials. Most often, fairly large panels, 40-60 cm wide, are laid on walls using glue. This method is more advantageous from a technological point of view, since the load from the considerable weight of the MDF panel is distributed not over several clamps or staples, but over the entire surface of the slab and walls. What does this give? Greater reliability, if the top row of MDF lamellas breaks, the middle and bottom rows will hold the entire structure.

Before attaching the MDF panels to the wall, the back side is covered with small portions of glue. These can be dots, spirals, short stripes. The main thing is that the adhesive material is evenly distributed over the wall surface.

As glue, it is best to use automotive sealant, polyurethane adhesives and homemade adhesives based on a mixture of acetone and polystyrene foam. Acrylic and polyvinyl acetate adhesives hold MDF panels rather weakly.

For your information! The MDF sticker on the sealant makes it possible to trim and remove the panel from the wall if necessary without damaging the surface. Stiffer alkyd, polystyrene and acrylic adhesives can tear off part of the back surface.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall

The process of installing cellulose fiber panels is relatively simple and easy to understand, even for a beginner. If a horizontal installation method is used, then the bottom panel or lamella is installed first, directly resting on the starting strip of the frame. It needs to be laid on glue, leveled to the building level and secured with a stapler or self-tapping screw.

Before laying the next panel on the wall, it is necessary to install the corner or edge cladding elements, fix them on the wall, and only then proceed with laying the next parts of MDF.

How to fasten MDF panels to a bar or profile is selected individually in each specific case, based on the fastening conditions and the size of the material. Relatively thin, 6-9 mm lamellas are snapped into place with tongue-and-groove locks, after which the free end is sewn to the beam with staples and self-tapping screws. If it is assumed that it is possible to periodically remove the MDF cladding from the wall to inspect communications or wiring laid behind the decorative trim, then the panels are installed with clamps.

Thick slabs are mounted directly on the walls using glue and dowels, sealing the joints with acrylic putty and then gluing wallpaper or PVC film.

A difficult option on how to install MDF on walls with insulation

MDF boards are much simpler and more convenient to handle than heavy plasterboard, plywood or plastic, while the strength of the panels is enough to build two or even three-layer cladding options from a fiber composite with insulation as an intermediate layer.

For example, cold external walls made of profiles, siding or concrete blocks are hemmed from the inside with HDF class MDF boards, with a density of 800-1800 kg/m3. The thickness of the slabs is 25-40 mm. The laid panels are sewn together at the joints with oblique screws and staplers, and the seam itself is rubbed with polymer mastic.

The material is treated with impregnation, which ensures good vapor transmission with high resistance to surface condensation. The slabs are fastened to the external walls “cold” - using steel dowels and carpentry screws. On the inside of the slab sheathing, wooden slats or strips cut from the slabs are sewn.

A steam membrane is stretched over the laid thermal insulation and hammered in with horizontal slats with a cross-section of 20x20 mm. The last step is to sew light decorative MDF panels of the LDF class with the texture of wood, natural stone or veneered onto the slatted sheathing.

Due to the low density of LDF, 200-600 kg/m 3, MDF panels perfectly transmit steam, which is removed through the ventilation gap and the ceiling ventilation seam. In this way, walls are sheathed in summer kitchens, balconies, verandas, and any rooms with frame-type walls.

Features of finishing with MDF panels

Most professional finishers prefer to work with MDF, since there is no dust and dirt, as is the case with drywall, installation is faster, and there are much fewer problems.

The assembly and installation of MDF on walls is in many ways similar to the installation of laminate floors, the only difference being that there are more opportunities for choosing decorative schemes for the room and a much more complex arrangement of corner and slope sectors of the walls.

Slopes

The arrangement of door or window slopes is no different from plasterboard options. If the slats were laid vertically on the walls, then to design a window or doorway it is enough to cut a panel of the required height and width and stick it to the slope plane with mounting foam or sealant.

If the walls in the room are protected by horizontal panels, then the slopes will have to be assembled from sections with self-tapping screws and plastic plugs.

Corners and crevices

Between the laid additional elements and the main part of the cladding, cracks and gaps always form. They have to be eliminated with the help of special decorative corner trims and decorative skirting boards.

All auxiliary decor is glued to “Titanium” or “Mounting Moment for MDF”, a small amount of glue is applied to the edge along the gap, after which a corner strip is installed at the joint. To prevent the decor from coming off, the corner is temporarily fixed with tape.

Sockets and switches

Every room has at least a couple of outlets and one switch. In order not to dismantle them during the installation of MDF, proceed as follows: measure the coordinates of the location of the socket on the wall, after which a hole of the appropriate shape and size is cut out with a ring drill or jigsaw. When installing an MDF panel, the size and position of the hole is specified and trimmed with a sharp knife.

All that remains is to install the panel, secure it to the wall, and close the remaining gap with a decorative frame.

Conclusion

The details of the process, how to attach MDF panels to the wall, must be thought out and planned in advance, before work on the decorative finishing of the room begins. The process itself is not particularly difficult, but in any room there are many problem areas where you almost have to invent the fastening method on your own. In this case, it is better to draw the details and method of fixation on the diagram so that you do not have to rack your brains and waste time during the work.

Choosing wall covering materials can be a headache due to the huge selection that the modern market offers. Now consumers prefer safe materials, but not everyone can afford them. MDF panels are an environmentally friendly material and at the same time relatively inexpensive, so they are chosen quite often. How the walls are decorated with MDF panels and what the features of the material are, we will look at in the article.

The planks are suitable for cladding any room: kitchen, bedroom, corridor, living room. The panels are used for cladding in the presence of curved walls, since the design hides imperfections and does not require careful preparation, which allows you to save on the purchase of additional materials.
The planks are made by pressing under the influence of high temperature. This is how small particles stick to each other. If you install the planks on the frame, you can lay an additional layer of thermal insulation for the room. This is especially true for apartments with poor heating and private houses.

Another saving point is ease of installation. For installation it is not necessary to call specialists; the work can be done on your own. After installation, the panels do not need to be processed additionally - they are completely ready. Where there are advantages, there are also disadvantages. MDF panels are no exception. Their surface can be scratched if handled carelessly. They also cannot withstand strong blows.
In the event of a fire, the slats will support the combustion. Therefore, the wiring must be insulated very well. To prevent them from burning, they are treated with special compounds, but these are additional costs and work.
But despite this, the panels will last for many years.

The main thing is not to use brushes or detergents with abrasive ingredients when cleaning. Finishing the cooking area in the kitchen with slats is also not permissible.

Types of panels

Like any material, MDF panels are classified into groups according to certain criteria: texture, size, shape, manufacturing technology.

There are several ways to make planks:

• Whole-pack;
• Laminated;
• Moisture resistant.

Whole-pressed ones, as the name suggests, are made by pressing small particles of wood. These planks will last a long time, they are durable and smooth. The decorative properties of such panels are immediately noticeable.
Laminated panels are also made by pressing, but after production the plank is covered with a special film. That is why this type has a wide selection of colors. Only the best wood fibers are used to make waterproof planks. They can be installed in rooms with high humidity: kitchen or bathroom.

According to their form they are distinguished into:

• Rack and pinion;
• Tiled;
• Leafy.

Slat strips are very easy to install, which is why they are most often purchased. For installation, a frame is required, which is simply filled with panels. The length and width of the planks can be different, you can choose the required size for a room with any area.
Tile planks are similar to regular tiles, only with a larger area. The tiles are installed in the same way as the slats - on the frame. This is a kind of cassette ceiling. Leafy ones can reach large sizes. More often they are decorated with drawings.

According to their texture, the planks are divided into:

• Veneered;
• Glossy;
• Painted;
• 3D panels.

Veneered planks imitate a natural wooden surface. MDF sheets are covered with veneer, which is made from various types of wood. This type is highly expensive.

Glossy panels are covered with film to achieve the desired effect. As you know, glossy smooth surfaces are much easier to clean. However, any damage on such a surface will be visible to the naked eye.

Painted planks are not used so often for cladding, although paint adds variety; more often, furniture is made from painted planks.

The surface of the planks can be glossy or matte. Drawings imitating various materials are applied to 3D panels. Three-dimensional drawings or photographs are also applied. Such panels can be made to order, it all depends on your imagination.

How to choose panels

Before work, you need to calculate the amount of material. However, you should not buy the material end-to-end; buy several panels in reserve in case they are damaged during work or during transportation.

Calculating the amount of material is simple. Measure the total area of ​​the walls and divide by the size of the panels. This is how you get the right number. The cost of the planks depends on the design and characteristics. Waterproof glossy panels with a 3D pattern will cost the most. Do not buy thin panels; their thickness should be at least 1 cm.

Preparing walls for paneling

Careful preparation for the frame structure is not required. The main thing is to treat the wall with an antifungal compound. Everything else depends on your personal desire. But still, if you are still carrying out repair work, then it is better to put the wall in order. Moreover, over time it will be much more difficult to do this. This is especially true for stains; the longer they remain on the surface, the more difficult it is to remove them.

The preparation process consists of several stages:

Necessary tool for the job

During the installation process, you will need plumb lines, which can be made from rope and weights. For marking you need a level and a tape measure. For installation, a screwdriver and an electric drill. If it is necessary to cut panels, use a jigsaw. It is also suitable for cutting metal parts.

Installation methods

The planks can be installed on a metal or wooden frame, or using glue. The choice of frame material depends on the room. So in a room with high humidity it is better to use metal, and in a private house wooden.

Installation on glue implies a flat surface, so preliminary work on preparing the wall must be completed completely and with care.

Glue

Installation with glue does not take much time. But later, if an individual strip is damaged, you will not be able to remove one panel without damaging the others.
The glue is applied to the panel in thin lines in three or four rows and glued to the wall. There is no need to press with force, a little pressure is enough. This fills the entire wall. Excess glue must be removed immediately before it dries.

Frame

First decide on the installation method of the panels: horizontal or vertical installation. The frame profile is installed perpendicular to the direction of the panels.

For horizontal positioning of the frame, marking lines are drawn using a level, and for vertical positioning using plumb lines. The frame guide strips are installed at a distance of 50 cm.

Wooden frame

The bars are installed on the wall using dowels. A hole is drilled in the plank, a dowel is inserted into it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. The fasteners are placed in increments of 40 cm.

Metal carcass

The metal profile is also attached with self-tapping screws. First, it is pressed against the wall and the location of the screws is marked, then holes are punched and then the profile is screwed on. After its installation, hangers are attached to it.

Fastening MDF panels to the wall. The evenness of installation of subsequent ones depends on the location of the starting bar, so check it with a level. Using a tenon, secure the panel in the corner to the guide profile. Additionally, secure it with self-tapping screws. Next, the tenon is installed in the groove of the previous panel. Thus, the wall is completely filled. The last strip usually has to be cut off. It is secured with self-tapping screws and subsequently covered with decorative corners.

Today, one of the simplest and least labor-intensive ways to achieve beautiful and smooth wall cladding is the installation of MDF panels. This material has won favor due to its low cost and non-toxicity, as well as ease of fastening. The work requires only accuracy and precision.

Frame method of fastening panels

In practice, three methods are used for the base: on a wooden frame, on a metal profile lathing, and on an adhesive composition.

Wall insulation

When covering the walls with panels, it would be a good idea to additionally insulate them by filling the sheathing chambers with heat-insulating material. In addition to insulation, it provides protection against condensation in the space between the base and the casing.

In summer, the heat gain in the room will significantly decrease, and in winter, heat loss will correspondingly decrease, thereby allowing significant savings on payments for heat energy consumption.

Installation of wooden sheathing

The technology for installing a frame made of wooden slats, in contrast to metal sheathing, is simpler. For its construction, a smaller number of fasteners are used, however, the lathing requires special antiseptic treatment and the cost of wooden boards is higher than the cost of a metal profile.

The frame installation process consists of several stages:

1. Marking the location for fixing the first lathing strip. It should be located perpendicular to the length of the fixed panel slats. That is, if the panel slats are attached horizontally, then the sheathing strips should be positioned vertically, and if the slats are attached vertically, then the grille should be positioned horizontally.
2. Fastening the starting parts of the grid. The place on the base with the largest protrusion is determined; all other frame planks will be aligned to this beacon. The installation of slats should begin with a row passing through the found protrusion on the base. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled on the bar in increments of 50-60 cm. It should be noted that the more lumpy the wall, the smaller the step should be. Apply a strip to the holes on the wall exactly horizontally and mark the locations of the holes for the dowels (it is advisable to use a level). Then the plank is removed from the wall and, using a hammer drill, holes are drilled in the base and plastic dowels are placed. Subsequent planks of the frame row are fastened in a similar way. To make it easier to align the row slats, you can stretch a bright thread along the starting strip, the ends of which are secured with dowels in opposite corners of the room.
3. Making subsequent rows of sheathing. The first plank of the next row should be located in the same vertical plane with the plank of the previous row. To check, you can use a level applied to the slats of the adjacent rows. If necessary, you can adjust the fastening of the bar by placing small wedges under it. Then the thread is pulled again, acting as a beacon. All rows of the sheathing are performed in this sequence. The distance of the slats between adjacent rows should not be less than half a meter. Installation of horizontal strips is carried out in the same sequence, in increments of 40-60 cm, in this way the casing will not sag. For subsequent installation of ceiling and floor plinths, rows of planks should be placed along the ceiling and flooring of the room.
4. In all corners of the room, on each wall adjacent to one another, vertical planks are attached at right angles.
5. Installation of wooden slats around the perimeter of openings for windows and doors.

Installation of a metal frame

To install metal sheathing, use a metal profile and connecting fasteners. The products are fixed to the base using self-tapping screws; their length depends on the strength of the base. For the frame, two types of metal profiles are used: narrow (UD) and wide (CD).

The metal frame is made in the same way as the wooden one: racks in the corners and openings, as well as crossbars.

The pitch of the frame is similar to that of the wooden sheathing.

The technology for making a metal frame is as follows:

1. Installation of narrow profiles in corners, along the perimeter of door and window openings, as well as every three meters. This length corresponds to the length of the support post. All intermediate components will be placed in these racks. Fixation should be carried out firmly in increments of 15-25 cm.
2. Horizontal posts are connected to the horizontal profile using longitudinal CD connectors.
3. The key profiles are placed with their ends on the edge into the guide profiles and reinforced with self-tapping screws for strength.
4. If the length of the base on which the casing will be attached is more than two meters, then in order to avoid bending of the profiles from the load of its own weight, it is necessary to additionally secure the fastening brackets. The edges of the brackets are bent at right angles and in this form are placed in the place where the profile is installed. After fixing the profile in the guides, the brackets are fixed to it with bent parts, and their excess part is cut off. Before final fastening of horizontal posts, it is mandatory to check the horizontal position with a level. If there are any errors, they can be corrected at this stage of installation.

Fastening panels

Installing the trim on the frame is much simpler than the preliminary work. Installation of panels can be done from any corner of the room.

The MDF coating is attached in the following order:

1. Marking and cutting the starting panel. Using a tape measure, measure the required length of the panel, marking it accordingly. Using a jigsaw, saw off the excess part and the tenon that runs along the entire length of the panel.
2. Cutting holes in the casing for lighting fixtures.
3. Attaching the original panel. The canvas is applied to the attachment point in such a way that its back side is adjacent to the sheathing. The side adjacent to the corner at a distance of 1 cm from its edge is attached to all frame slats with self-tapping screws. On the groove side, the panel is secured with metal clips (clasps) so that its protrusion fits into the groove of the panel, firmly fixing it. The clips are attached to the frame slats using nails.
4. Installation of subsequent paintings. Cut off the required length of the covering, then place its tenon in the groove of the previous panel and attach it to the frame using clips. All subsequent panels installed to the opposite corner of the wall are attached in the same way. Often, the last canvas does not fit completely, so it is adjusted to the required size. Only the piece that is on the tenon side is needed, so the piece of fabric with the groove is cut off. Next, the tenon is inserted into the groove of the previous panel, and the part of the panel that abuts the frame of the adjacent wall is fixed with nails to the sheathing strips. In this sequence, all walls of the room are decorated with canvases.
5. Installation of ceiling and floor plinths. Fastening skirting boards can be done in several ways: using fasteners, using self-tapping screws and using glue.
6. The final stage of installing the panels is the installation of the finishing corner, which covers all corner joints of the covering. To do this, apply a thin layer of adhesive mixture to the measured length of the corner, apply it to the corner part of the walls and gently but firmly press it. To evenly distribute the glue, using a rag, you can walk along the length of the corner several times from the bottom up and back.

Glue installation

This fastening method is suitable when the surface of the walls does not have unevenness or the task is to carefully level them. Also, installing panels with glue is necessary when the wall surface is tiled.

Installation in this way does not require the construction of any frame.

First of all, let's decide on the type of glue that is suitable for this type of work. Any glue will not work in this case; you need a composition that has certain properties:

• plasticity not only during operation, but also after hardening (the composition must withstand temperature fluctuations);
• thick texture so that it can be applied not only in a thin, but also in a thick layer (in this case, construction adhesive - liquid nails - is perfect).

The installation technology includes several stages:

1. Cleaning the base surface of old coating, dust, dirt and deposits, followed by processing of the primer mixture.
2. While the primer layer dries, you can cut the panels to the required size.
3. After the soil has dried, you can begin installing the panels. To do this, large drops of glue are applied to it pointwise in a checkerboard pattern. Then the canvas is pressed tightly against the wall, after which it is torn off, this is done in order to weather the glue, and also to ensure that the sheathing does not lag behind the base under the weight of its weight. After 5-7 minutes, the canvases are applied to the wall and pressed tightly.

This installation method has several disadvantages:

• from the effects of temperature changes when changing seasons, the cladding may swell or, in the worst case, peel off;
• when changing the finish, it will be necessary to clean the base from glue residues, as well as the inability to reuse the dismantled panels.

1. If the room in which it is planned to finish MDF has traces of dampness, swelling or peeling of the putty, before cladding it is imperative to remove the old coating to the main base.
2. The lowest horizontal post of the sheathing should be located on the floor, this will ensure strong fastening of the baseboards.
3. Experts recommend attaching the covering to the frame, even though the profile reduces the space of the room. This is due to the fact that the cladding has additional ventilation and is less susceptible to seasonal fluctuations in temperature and humidity compared to the adhesive method.
4. When installing the sheathing, you can use two types of materials, constructing a base around the perimeter from a metal profile, and the transverse elements from wooden slats.
5. Wooden slats for the frame must be well-dried and even.
6. Due to the fact that MDF is a highly flammable material, care should be taken that all external electrical wiring is placed in a corrugated cable pipe, and sockets and electrical switches are placed in boxes.
7. MDF cladding is essentially thick pressed cardboard and, accordingly, is susceptible to moisture. Therefore, prolonged exposure to moisture on the surface will lead to delamination and swelling of the coating.
8. Professionals advise that during the installation of the sheathing, transfer the location of the planks on the base onto paper with exact adherence to the coordinates. This will make it possible in the future to place any interior items on the wall exactly at the place where the slats are attached, and not on the sheathing, on the surface of which it is strictly forbidden to attach anything.