Sleeping bag indispensable for lovers of hiking. This tourist attribute is subject to: special requirements and first of all, it should be light, compact and at the same time warm. Today, the market offers a wide variety of models that can accommodate several people at once and protect those inside from the cold at temperatures down to -70 ⁰C.

Of course, such a product will cost a lot of money, but it is quite possible to make a sleeping bag with your own hands, especially if you plan to use it only for relaxing in the forest in a pleasant company, and not for professional climbing.

Types of products

Modern sleeping bags can have the most various designs, here they are:

• sleeping bag-blanket. The most simple model, having a large volume. You can sew it from an old blanket with a zipper and take it with you on a short hike;
• cocoon model. This model is narrowed at the bottom, which makes it possible to save space in a backpack and when placing it in a tent. If desired, it can be equipped with a drawstring hood and additional insulation;
• overalls. This is no longer a bag, but clothing that allows you to move around and, if necessary, leave the tent space. The only drawback is that this model cannot be called universal. Requires strict sizing;
• combined model. It can be transformed from one sleeping bag to two and vice versa.

Filler

The filling of a sleeping bag should be such that it retains heat in a layer of non-circulating air. The air inside the product is warmed by the heat of the human body. And the filler acts as a barrier and does not allow cold air environment get inside. The tighter the bag fits a person’s body, the longer the heat will be retained inside.

Today, both artificial and natural materials. The first ones are represented by padding polyester, nitron, holofiber, etc. Natural ones include waterfowl down.

The latter is preferable because it holds heat better and is lighter, but synthetic analogues are cheaper and easier to find at the same garment factory or atelier. In any case, they fully meet the requirements of durability, low hygroscopicity and protection from cold and wind.

If you decide to sew a sleeping bag with your own with my own hands made of down, then to make the upper base it is necessary to use a down-proof material, for example, calendered nylon. Details of the interior decoration, so to speak, can be made from thick cotton fabric, for example, teak or percale. However, it must be remembered that this will not have the best effect on the weight of the product and its durability.

You can also make a sleeping bag liner from thin cotton fabric with your own hands. The partitions that form the down sections are quilted with thin parachute nylon. If you plan to deal with synthetic insulation, then you can use regular parachute nylon.

Sewing process

There are a huge variety of options for single sleeping down bags, but at home the easiest way to make a model is one that consists of two bags inserted into each other. Yes, it will take a lot of fabric for quilting, and the bag will turn out to be heavy, but it is easier to care for, dry, by removing one part from the other, and can always be used separately.

To make a bag, you need 8 m of fabric for quilting, the same amount of calendered nylon 1 m wide, and about 1 kg of fluff for filling. You will also need nylon threads.

If you plan to take with you on a hike a bedding mat made of polyurethane foam or polyethylene foam, endowed with high thermal insulation properties, then the bottom of the bag can be made thinner than the top. For cutting nylon fabrics, it is best to use a sharpened tip electric soldering iron. In this case, it is advisable to place the fabric on a board or sheet of plywood.

Manufacturing stages:

• make a pattern for the details of the outer and inner covers, based on the height and volume of a person’s chest;
• make a pattern for the quilting detail with an allowance of 1–2 cm, based on the overall dimensions. It is necessary to take into account that the thin parachute nylon stretches very much and during operation it will be quite problematic to align the parts with each other;
• sew the quilting to the covers so that the seams do not coincide with each other, but are slightly shifted;
• sew the product on one side and fill the compartments with insulation on the other;
• sew the product on the other side, and sew both parts of the outer bag - both the top and the bottom;
• do the same with the upper and lower parts of the inner bag;
• the upper part of the sleeping bag can be rounded and along this line the liner and outer bag can be sewn together;
• stitch the top edge of the bag so that the tightening cord can be threaded through. The last stage perform this operation.

The two can be combined with each other different insulation. For example, the top of the product is filled with down, and the bottom is made of holofiber. If you don't want to bother with stuffing, use a ready-made blanket with a natural or synthetic base.

Source: http://tourlib.net/books_tourism/bivaki08.htm

Ryzhavsky G.Ya. Bivouacs

8. Sleeping bags

For a good rest, you need light, compact, comfortable bags that retain heat well. They should dry quickly and be easy to transport. The best thermal insulation is waterfowl down and synthetic bulk materials.

The fluff is soft, has good thermal insulation, but is hygroscopic and easily wrinkles, causing thermal insulation to deteriorate.

More dense filling of the bottom panel of the pawn with down leads to an increase in the weight of the bag rather than to eliminating this drawback. It is better to use a lightweight polyurethane foam or polyethylene foam mat for the bottom. The thickness of a sleeping bag for winter hikes should not exceed 5-7 cm, for summer hikes in the mountains - 3-4 cm, in valleys - 1-2 cm. The thickness of a sleeping bag should be understood as the total average thickness of the bag, its materials, including fabric , fluff, air gaps.

Of the commercially available sleeping bags for sports trips, it is better to use blanket bags with various synthetic insulation. They are quite suitable for traveling in summer, in mid-mountain and warm areas. In winter, in treeless areas and in the highlands, when spending the night above the snow line, only down bags or bags with synthetic insulation equivalent to down are suitable.

However, the best bags are still homemade. A single sleeping bag provides more high comfort; There are no problems when distributing people among tents when a group is forced to separate (reconnaissance, drop-off, etc.).

A multi-person bag is lighter and cheaper than a single bag per person (about 30% for a three-person bag), and it is warmer to sleep in. If you join two single-person blanket bags using a detachable zipper, you can get a three-person sleeping bag, although less comfortable than a single-person sleeping bag. A multi-person bag, in addition to being less comfortable, is not always easy to carry due to its large volume; in addition, it requires a certain number of people in the group, a multiple of the bag’s capacity.

Double bags inserted into each other have worked well on winter hikes. These bags are warmer than regular ones, although somewhat heavier. Double bags retain heat better due to the air gap, are more convenient to transport, and dry better. If it’s warm, both bags can be used separately as summer bags.

As mentioned above, waterfowl down (eider, duck, goose) is the most effective as insulation. Chicken fluff, without a fat coating, gets wet and takes a long time to dry and rot.

Recently, especially on winter hikes, synthetic fillers (sintepon, nitron, etc.) have been used. They are low hygroscopic, sag slightly, durable, not so scarce and quite cheap, although they are somewhat heavier and colder than down and take up more volume.

Fabrics used for down bags should be down-proof (for example, calendered nylon and percale for the top and lighter cotton fabric for the inner cover; thin parachute nylon is used for the pers-towns that form the down sections).

A bag with synthetic insulation can be sewn entirely from ordinary parachute nylon.

The main designs of sleeping bags according to the method of forming its package: two-layer quilted, two-layer with bulkheads, three-layer and four-layer (Fig. 44 a). The most commonly used design for medium temperatures is a two-layer structure with bulkheads, and for winter - a four-layer structure. Four-layer designs are technologically advanced, easily ventilated thanks to the air gap in the bag and have good thermal protection.

Rice. 44. Basic designs of sleeping bags:
a) formation of a down package (1. Two-layer quilted. 2. Two-layer with bulkheads. 3. Three-layer. 4. Four-layer); b) variants of bag shapes - “cocoon” and “blanket”; c) drawings of the cut of the “cocoon” and “blanket” (1, 2. Upper and lower panels of the “cocoon”. 3. One of the panels of the “blanket”).

Better thermal insulation- this is air. Any filler only creates volume for it and eliminates its movement. The optimal density for filling a bag with down is 12-15 g/dm2. A sleeping bag requires 1-1.3 kg of down.

Sleeping bags mainly have two forms - “cocoon” and “blanket” (Fig. 44 b). For a blanket bag, a two-layer design with bulkheads is more suitable; for a cocoon bag, a four-layer structure is more suitable.

In Fig. 44 c provides cutting drawings for both types of single bags. The cocoon consists of an upper and lower 2 panels; blanket - made of two panels 3 measuring 180 x 200 cm.

Exist various ways sewing: a complex, time-consuming method (Fig. 44 a2), but with minimum consumption quilting fabrics; the method in which the quilting fabric is alternately sewn to the outer and inner covers is also quite complex (Fig. 44 a3); A simpler bag is made of two parts inserted into each other, it is easier to dry, but the bag is heavier (Fig. 44 a4). The last method is most suitable for making homemade bags.

The easiest way to sew a rectangular single sleeping bag. By sewing a long zipper into it, you can get a sleeping bag-blanket. It is better to sew it with a headrest (Fig. 45 a).

Rice. 45. Single Sleeping Bags:
a) rectangular single sleeping bags (1. One-piece sleeping bag. 2. Blanket sleeping bag. 3. Blanket sleeping bag with zippers); b) cut of the sleeping bag “Cocoon-2”, c) version of the sleeping bag “Cocoon-3” (1. Headband. 2. Trims. 3. Tightening cord. 4. Partitions. 5. Top. 6. Linings); d) sleeping bag options “Cocoon-4” and “Cocoon-5”, e) Sleeping bag “Elephant Foot” (1. Regular. 2. With an elongated back part).

More difficult to manufacture, but warmer and lighter, is the cocoon sleeping bag, four more designs of which are shown in Fig. 45 b, c, d.

The shortened sleeping bag “elephant foot” is even lighter and smaller (Fig. 45 d). It is sewn in the form of a shortened cocoon and is used in combination with a warm down jacket. An “elephant’s foot” is colder than a full sleeping bag.

For one of simple designs For a single down sleeping bag “cocoon-2” (Fig. 45 b), you need 8x1 m of calendered nylon for the outer and inner covers and fabric for quilting. For stuffing, 0.8-1.0 kg is required. fluff. The weight of the finished bag is 1.4-1.8 kg. depending on the amount of fluff and the material of the covers.

It is convenient to cut parts from nylon fabric with a sharp tip of an electric soldering iron, placing the fabric on a solid base.

It is more convenient to sew a bag in the following sequence:

Cut out the details of the outer and inner covers;
- cut out the quilting details with an allowance of 1-2 cm;
- attach the quilting material to the outer and inner covers so that the seams are shifted relative to each other;
- sew up the down compartments on one side, fill them with down and sew them up on the other side;
- sew the top and bottom parts of the outer and inner bags, sew the inner and outer bags via ABC and ADS lines;
- stitch the top edge of the bag for the tightening cord (dotted line in Fig. 45 b), thread the cord. Single sleeping bag “Cocoon-3” (Fig. 45 c). The top of the bag is made of calendered nylon, the lining is made of teak. The pattern is designed for a person 170-176 cm tall with a chest volume of up to 100 cm and is given with a seam allowance. Down consumption is about 1.5 kg, fabric consumption is 12 m2.

It is better to sew a bag in the following sequence:

Cut out the details of the top and lining, sew the parts along line A-B;
- sew partitions 4 to top 5 and lining 6;
- sew up pockets on one edge;
- sequentially, starting from the bottom, fill the pockets with down and sew them up;
- grind the headband and thread the tightening cord, stitch the down-filled bag along the line V-G overlap, sew the bottom and trim it.

A multi-person sleeping bag can be sewn in the form of a rectangular bag. It is good to make a dart in the legs for the foot (Fig. 46 a). A more convenient multi-person bag with a headrest made of light cotton fabric sewn to the top edge (Fig. 46 b).

Rice. 46. ​​Multiple sleeping bags:
a) rectangular; b) sleeping bag with headrest; V) general form sleeping bag with liner; d) cut of the sleeping bag.

Double blanket bags are convenient to use and as simple blankets, they are easier to dry. If such a sleeping bag is narrowed to your feet, it will become lighter and take more space. less space.

A double sleeping bag is made from thin, preferably calendered, nylon. The insulation can be synthetic padding, the number of layers of which depends on the thickness and purpose of the sleeping bag. It is better to use nylon threads.

Down bags, which are more expensive, pay off on mountain hikes.

In sleeping bags you can use an insert for autumn-spring and winter hikes, and do without it in the summer.

The general view of such a bag is shown in Fig. 46.v. The top half of the bag should be shorter by the length of your foot. The outer cover of the sleeping bag is sewn according to the pattern of the inner one, increased by 1 cm in length and 2 cm in width.

At first, the cutters made the inner and outer covers. Along the contour, they are basted to the nylon of the outer cover and quilted every 30 cm along the length and width. The same is done with the inner cover, but when applying one cover to another, the stitching should not match. Then the sidewall and bottom of each cover are sewn separately. Insert the inner cover into the outer one so that the side seam of one of them is on the left and the other on the right. Finally, sew the two covers together. The liner is made in the same way.

For a three-person sleeping bag, we can recommend the following dimensions: width 170 cm (narrow at the feet to 150 cm), length 180-190 cm, with a headrest 220-230 cm. For such a bag you need 17.5 x 1 fabric for covers and quilting, as well as 2-2.5 kg of fluff. Bag weight - 3.2-3.6 kg.

The combination of down with synthetic insulation is quite practical. In this case, the top of the bag is stuffed with down, and the bottom is made of padding polyester. Such a bag is cheaper, less hygroscopic, and more technologically advanced. Sintepon sag less, but is heavier and more voluminous than fluff.

When using padding polyester, two or three layers of insulation are applied to the cut out parts of the outer and inner covers (depending on its thickness) and sewn so that the seams on the covers are shifted relative to each other. Then the inner and outer bags are sewn together, as when making a down bag.

Nitron fiber is also used as synthetic insulation. The technology for sewing it is the same as for down (Fig. 47 a). The nitron is laid out in an even layer on the top and lining pattern, covered with newspaper and basted, then sewn onto the lining, stitched by machine every 10-15 cm and the newspaper is torn off. The stitching lines of the outer and inner layers should not coincide. It is recommended to sew a quilt between the layers. thin material(Fig. 47 b).

Rice. 47. Technology of sewing synthetic insulation.

Synthetic batting is more technologically advanced when sewing - even lightly stitched, it does not move to the bottom and does not compact in the form of rollers. Better thermal insulation due to air gaps is achieved if the batting is sewn in the form of corrugation (Fig. 47 c). For a sleeping bag you will need 1-1.3 m2 of batting and 7 m of fabric with a width of 85-90 cm.

A double multi-person sleeping bag (Fig. 48) can be sewn from thin nylon with synthetic padding insulation. To prevent it from bunching up, it is stitched along the length and width. The bag has a headrest 1, making the bag more comfortable and warm. The headrest is made of light cotton fabric of such a width that it can be thrown behind the head and pressed against the back of the head. A bag 3 made of thin nylon is sewn to the edge of the bag under the head for storing things under the head. It is advisable to line the sides and legs of the bag with calendered nylon or bologna fabric 2.

Rice. 48. Double Bench Sleeping Bag:
a) general appearance, main dimensions, location of stitches; b), c), d) options for stitching panels with various insulation materials.

It is better to sew the bag in the following order:

Cut four panels according to the dimensions indicated in the figure;
- spread two or three layers of insulation between two panels and quilt them every 15-20 cm;
- sew the blankets together, overlapping the sides;
- sew a bottom 25-30 cm wide.

Options for sewing panels with various insulation materials are shown in Fig. 48 b, c, d. When using down (eider, duck, etc.; and synthetic wool insulation (nitron), partitions 3 or an intermediate one are sewn between the outer 1 and inner 2 panels lightweight material 4.

Nitron, spread out in an even layer of the desired thickness, can be sewn to the panel through a sheet of newspaper (Fig. 47 d). Sheet padding polyester is also sewn on. The lines of the outer and inner stitching should not be combined.

Of the commercially available sleeping bags for mountain hiking, only blanket bags with various synthetic insulation can be recommended for use. they provide a completely complete rest during the hike. cotton bags are practically unsuitable for outdoor activities due to heavy weight, large volume and high hygroscopicity of cotton wool. When hiking in the highlands and spending the night above the snow line, you can use only down bags or bags with synthetic insulation equivalent to down.
It’s easy to make your own sleeping bag. Which bag should you prefer - single or multi-person? the advantages of a single bag are obvious: higher comfort during overnight stays; there are no problems when distributing participants among tents; when a group is forced to separate (reconnaissance, transporting a victim, drop-offs, etc.). a single bag can serve as a piece of personal equipment.
The disadvantages of a multi-person sleeping bag include its large volume (a three-person bag, if sewn in one piece, takes up the entire volume of the backpack). When planning winter mountain hikes, it is recommended to sew double (in thickness) sleeping bags - one in one. These bags are somewhat heavier than regular ones, but much warmer. In addition, it is possible to use each bag separately.

DESIGNS AND METHODS OF SEWING There are several ways to make down equipment (Fig. 114). the first method (Fig. 114a) is the most labor-intensive, but with minimal consumption of quilting fabric. at homemade production practically not used. with the second method (Fig. 114b), the quilting fabric is alternately sewn to the outer and inner covers. The method is also quite complicated.
with the third manufacturing method (Fig. 114c), the consumption of quilting fabric is greatest, and the bag turns out to be somewhat heavier, but it is easier to sew (in fact, two bags are sewn, inserted into one another and sewn together at the neck), it is easy to dry by removing one part from another. This method is most common in the homemade production of not only sleeping bags, but also down jackets, vests, and trousers.

Rice. 114. methods of making a down sleeping bag: a - with minimal consumption of fabric; b - the quilting fabric is alternately sewn to the inner and outer cover; c - the easiest way to sew; 1 - cover, 2 - quilting, 3 - down, 4 - seam.

rice. 115. Patterns for parts of a single sleeping bag. The sizes are designed for a person with a height of 175-180 cm and are given without gaps on the seams.

There are many designs of single sleeping down bags. We propose a design that is relatively easy to implement in home-made production (Fig. 115). for this you need 8 m of calendered nylon (with a width of 1 m) for the outer and inner covers and 8 m of fabric for quilting. For filling, 0.8-1.0 kg of fluff is required. The bag should be sewn with nylon threads. the weight of the finished bag is from 1.4 to 1.8 kg (depending on the density of the material and the amount of fluff). To facilitate the process of cleaning down and filling a product with down, several devices have been developed using a household vacuum cleaner.
It is advisable to take into account that recently sleeping bags have been used in combination with bedding mats made of polyethylene foam or polyurethane foam, which have high thermal insulation properties, so the bottom of the bag can be made thinner than the top.
It is convenient to cut parts from nylon fabrics with a sharpened tip of an electric soldering iron, placing the fabric on a sheet of plywood, a drawing board, etc. It is better to sew the bag in the following sequence:
- cut out the details of the outer and inner covers;
- cut out the quilting details according to overall dimensions with an allowance of 1-2 cm (thin parachute nylon stretches a lot and when sewing it is difficult to accurately align the parts);
- attach quilting material to the outer and inner covers so that the seams are shifted relative to each other;
- sew up the down compartments on one side;
- fill the compartments with down;
- sew up the compartments on the other side;
- sew the top and bottom parts of the outer bag;
- sew the upper and lower parts of the inner bag;
- sew the inner and outer bags along the ABC and ADC lines;
- stitch the top edge of the bag for the tightening cord;
- thread the cord.

For a three-person sleeping bag, the following dimensions are recommended: width 170cm (can be narrowed to 150cm at the feet); length 180-190cm, with headrest 220-230cm. to make such a bag you need 17.5 m of fabric for covers, 17.5 m of fabric for quilting (with a width of 1 m) and 2-2.5 kg of down. the weight of the finished bag is 3.2-3.6 kg.
The combination of down with synthetic insulation is quite practical. in this case, the top of the bag is filled with down, and the bottom is made of padding polyester. such a bag is more technologically advanced, cheaper, synthetic material is less sagging than down, and is less hygroscopic. but a combination bag is heavier than a down bag and takes up more volume when folded.
The technology for sewing bags filled with synthetic wool differs from the technology for making down bags. if cotton wool is stuffed like fluff into a section, it will quickly fall off and this part of the bag will lose thermal insulation properties. To prevent this from happening, a layer of cotton wool is laid out on the cover, covered with quilting fabric and stitched in the same way as a quilted cotton blanket. further - as in the manufacture of down bags.
when using padding polyester, two or three layers of insulation are applied to the cut out parts of the outer and inner covers (depending on its thickness) and stitched so that the seams on the covers are shifted relative to each other. then the inner and outer bags are sewn together in the same way as when making a down bag.

I always thought that sewing a sleeping bag with your own hands was very difficult. I thought that the zipper needed to be inserted between layers of insulation, which you had to make yourself, but I was wrong.

I decided to make my own sleeping bag for two reasons. Firstly, my girlfriend didn't have a sleeping bag, and secondly, I liked the double insulation bag at IKEA for $20. It was so soft, cuddly and perfect for making a sleeping bag. The only thing I didn't know was how to install the zipper correctly. But I just looked at mine and saw that the zipper doesn't need to be inserted anywhere - it's just sewn on. In fact, why insert it between layers of insulation if you can simply sew it on.

To make your own sleeping bag, you will need:

• insulation;
• very long zipper;
• sewing machine;
• foot for sewing in a zipper.

The first thing to do is lay out the insulation and carefully fold it in half (it doesn’t matter which side of the insulation you choose). Divide the zipper in half and position the halves along both edges of the insulation so that the stitching line is approximately one inch from the edge of the insulation. You should end up with something like the photo below.

Once you have secured both halves of the zipper for a few inches, try closing the zipper. This must be done to ensure that the zipper is installed correctly. Attach the zipper to the insulation along its entire length.

It will be quite a challenge to get the zipper halves installed correctly, but be patient and get the zipper working perfectly.

So, the main work is done - the zipper is installed exactly to the required length of the sleeping bag. Next you need to cut off the excess part of the insulation (above the zipper). To do this, it is necessary to rip the seams along the edges of the upper part of the insulation. Please note that this seam does not need to be cut - it just needs to be ripped open.

Then trim off the excess insulation on top, starting at the top edge of the zipper installation.

Zip up. Make sure the zipper is installed correctly and trim it. You can fold the cut edges of the zipper. Sew on the zipper.

All. The work of making a sleeping bag is completed!

This homemade sleeping bag has already been used for its intended purpose and there are no complaints about it. To make it necessary less often, you can put a regular sheet inside. However, decide for yourself what is more convenient for you.

Not a single hiking trip, long-distance expedition, or just an overnight trip into nature would be complete without high-quality equipment. A warm sleeping bag helps a person relax after an active day, restore strength and health, and keep warm in low night temperatures. When choosing a sleeping bag, there are several particularly important parameters to consider.

Options for choosing sleeping bags

1. Terms of Use. If you are planning to hike in extreme conditions with low temperatures, you will need the warmest model. Please note that such a sleeping bag will cost the most and will be heavier. This option is not suitable for the summer heat. For warm summer nights, you should choose lightweight, thin models of sleeping bags.
2. Sleeping bag length. There are standard (up to 195 cm), children's (up to 145 cm), teenage (up to 167 cm), and extended (up to 205 cm). It is very important to choose the right size envelope, since a sleeping bag that is too large will not provide comfortable sleep and high-quality thermal protection.
3. Sleeping bag design. They come in blanket and cocoon forms. The first type of sleeping bag works on the principle of a familiar blanket, with a side fastener, with the help of which the blanket turns into a bag. Such models can be sold with or without headrests. Cocoon sleeping bags provide travelers with better thermal insulation as they fit the body better. Cocoon models taper towards the bottom, which allows you to conserve precious heat. It is advisable to choose a model with an extension at the knee level, so you will feel more comfortable and be able to roll over. These bags take up minimal space in your backpack and are also very convenient to use. In particular important areas There are special insulation: in the hood, at the bottom, along the zipper, around the shoulders.
4. The weight of the envelope is very important parameter, because you will have to carry the sleeping bag on your own shoulders. Cheaper models are usually made from classic materials that cannot provide weight loss. Manufacturers using modern lightweight materials that provide excellent warmth are benefiting significantly. The weight of a good bag is about 1-1.5 kg.
5. Pay attention to the material of the external and internal covering, insulation. The material for the outer layer must be strong, wear-resistant, heat- and moisture-resistant. Inner layer should be warm and breathable, soft and pleasant to the body. For example, cotton is considered the most pleasant to the body, but when wet it can become quite heavy. In this regard, nylon wins because it does not retain moisture and reduces the weight of the product, but this fabric is not so pleasant to the body. Insulation materials can be natural or artificial. The highest quality filler is considered to be made from natural fluff. Such sleeping bags are almost weightless and provide excellent warmth in any conditions, even very low temperatures. Their disadvantage is that when exposed to moisture they become heavy and take a long time to dry. Drying a sleeping bag while camping is often not possible, and if the bag is rolled up for a long time, the filling may rot. Therefore, they are often used as fillings for sleeping bags. synthetic materials, among which padding polyester, holofiber, Thinsulate, etc. have gained popularity. They warm well, quickly take their original shape and dry.
6. Choose a sleeping bag with high-quality fittings. The zippers must be strong, a reinforced tape must be sewn along the zipper to protect the zipper from getting caught by fabric, the hood must be equipped with a strong drawstring cord. More expensive models come with convenient waterproof carrying bags with drawstrings, thanks to which the volume of the sleeping bag is reduced several times.

High-quality and durable sleeping bags cost a lot, and if you consider that you don’t go hiking very often, then buying an expensive sleeping bag is, to say the least, illogical. Therefore, you will find the instructions with detailed description how to sew a sleeping bag with your own hands. To decide on the sleeping bag model, carefully study the above parameters for choosing a bag. To sew yourself, you need to decide what fabric to use for the outer and inner layers, what filler to choose, and prepare accessories.

As a filler, you can choose goose down, which has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, or padding polyester, which will delight you with its value. Also, in a model made with your own hands, you can combine filler materials. For the outer layer, down and waterproof fabrics are selected. Inexpensive fabric suitable for these purposes is nylon and raincoat. For interior decoration select inexpensive light and durable cotton fabric such as percale. In addition to fabrics and filling, you will need accessories for your sleeping bag model, most often zippers and drawstrings, nylon threads and laces.