Tips for modellers on building scale kits. Basic rules for assembling plastic airplane models. Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Collecting, as well as the collection of aircraft models, occupies a special place among the many various types hobby. Assembling a model from ready-made plastic parts, you should be as careful, precise, patient and assiduous as possible. You should also have an idea of ​​the history of the equipment that you began to collect.

To collect beautiful model airplane, the instructions included in the kit you purchased are not enough. In order to ensure that after assembly your model turns out without glue drips, its surface is smooth, with well-applied paint, you should study the basic rules of high-quality assembly. These basic rules will be discussed in today’s article.

So, let's move on directly to assembling a plastic model of an airplane, but for this you should purchase the kit that interests you. If you have not yet decided on your future choice, you can familiarize yourself with the large assortment of our store, as well as buy the one you liked. In our store you will find a variety of kits for assembling both military equipment of various periods and civilian ones.

Before you start assembling the model, you should prepare the necessary set of tools, such as: a model knife, glue - model and PVA, special model tape or tape, tweezers, sandpaper, brushes or airbrush, as well as primer, putty and paints.

Then you should remove the entire contents of the set and check that all parts are present and that they are not damaged or deformed. If, after checking, all parts are in place and not damaged, proceed to the next step.

Next you should prepare workplace- it should be a large, spacious table, which is covered with a special model rug. The room where the aircraft will be assembled must be well lit and the light must be bright. If you have an airbrush and paint assembled structure will be produced by him, the room must be equipped with good ventilation.

An important factor is how the model will ultimately look. To do this, it is worth finding images of a real prototype of the selected model in historical literature or on the Internet.

Main assembly steps:

1. First of all, we select the sprues to which the main body parts are attached - these are the fuselage and wings. Carefully, using a modeling knife, we cut off the parts and process the attachment points to the sprues with sandpaper.

Separate the parts from the sprues sequentially, so as not to confuse their identity and place in the model in the future.

2. Next, we put the halves of the body together and secure it with modeling tape or tape. We also attach all the main parts to the structure using modeling tape or tape. Having made sure that all the parts fit together and clearly occupy their niches, we can begin gluing the aircraft together.

3. Before you start gluing the fuselage parts together, you should assemble and paint the cockpit. After completely dry cockpit, we place it between the fuselage halves and begin gluing the halves together.

4. Now let's go directly to gluing models. Aircraft parts should be glued one at a time. Glue each subsequent part only after the previous one has dried. Try to apply the glue carefully, without leaving drips.

5. After gluing all the parts and the glue has completely dried, we perform grinding airplane models. This is done using sandpaper. This procedure is necessary to give flat surface designs.

6. Next we apply putty, to avoid all kinds of cracks, dents and other things at the joints between the wings and the body. Carefully apply putty to required areas, remove the remaining excess with a wet rag.

7. After the putty has completely dried, we sand the aircraft body again with sandpaper.

8. Having achieved smooth surface our building, let's move on to his priming. But before you do this, you need to degrease the body, for this you should use a special degreaser or alcohol. We also cover with modeling tape areas that should not be touched by the primer, such as the cockpit window and lights.

This procedure is necessary to identify imperfections on the surface of the aircraft model before painting it, and also to ensure that the paint lays down in an even layer and does not chip when drying.

The primer should be applied with smooth, quick movements along or across the model. The can of primer should be kept 30 - 50 cm from the surface of the aircraft. Since the soil is toxic substance, the procedure should be performed wearing a respirator and gloves.

First we prime the upper part of the body and leave it to dry for 30 - 40 minutes. After drying, prime the lower part, and now the model should dry for two days.

9. After the primer has completely dried, the aircraft body must be carefully sand. We perform this action until the surface becomes smooth.

10. Before painting, carefully blow off the model so that no dust particles or hairs remain on it. Only after this procedure proceed to coloring. assembled model airplane. Small parts should be painted without removing from the sprue

Assembly is just part of the fun of working on a model. The final stage of such an interesting process is painting, applying decals and varnish to the assembled model. And after completing all stages of assembly, painting and applying the final touches, the aircraft model you have assembled will take its rightful place in your home collection.

In today's article we will look at the sequence and main secrets of high-quality assembly plastic models using the example of airplanes and helicopters produced by Zvezda.

Where to start collecting a model?

First of all, you should decide on the theme of future exhibits; these can be both civilian and military types. Here the choice depends on your preferences. Another criterion for choosing a model is its scale. Beginning modelers should choose kits with few parts and a single color paint scheme.

You should also acquire the necessary tools. Here is an approximate list of required equipment:

1. Set of model knives.
2. Tweezers.
3. Model rug.
4. Glue.
5. Special modeling tape or tape.
6. Wire cutters.
7. Sandpaper or needle file.
8. putty.
9. Brushes, airbrush.
10. Paints.

Having collected the necessary tool, you can proceed to assembling the selected models.

Collection of models, using the example of Zvezda airplanes and helicopters

At the very beginning, you should prepare the workplace where you will work. To do this, you need a table, preferably with a large surface, which needs to be covered with a modeling mat to avoid damaging the table surface. Only those items that are useful for assembling the model should be on the table. The room in which you will work should also have good, bright lighting. Then you need to inspect the purchased kits, study the instructions, make sure that there are no missing parts, and also that there are no defects on them.

So, let's move on to the sequence of assembling the models.

1. First, we separate the parts from the sprue. Then we clean out the remaining irregularities when disconnecting. Do not separate all the parts at once, as in the future you may get confused about what is what and where to attach which part.

To begin with, we separate the fuselage parts and attach the halves to each other, but do not glue them together, but make sure that they fit each other clearly. If one of the parts has defects, it should be adjusted using sandpaper or a file. The sandpaper should be waterproof, since during work it will have to be washed frequently in order to get rid of plastic shavings.

2. Before gluing the parts together, connect them using modeling tape or tape, this will make the gluing process easier.

Gluing upper layer body, let it dry, and then proceed to gluing the bottom.

Buy special superfluid, quick-drying glue.

Before gluing the fuselage, the windows and cockpit should be glued. For transparent parts use special glue on a transparent basis. You should also place a small weight in the bow of your model, this is necessary so that later your exhibit does not fall on its tail. You can use plasticine as a weight.

When assembling a helicopter model, you should assemble the cockpit and engine, then cover everything with primer and paint. After complete drying, place it between the fuselage halves.

After all the above manipulations, you can begin gluing the body halves. Next, glue the remaining parts to the assembled model. If you have a model airplane, we glue the wings, tail, turbines, landing gear, etc. If you have a helicopter model, then we glue the lights, antennas, landing gear, install the blades, etc.

For ease of applying glue, use brushes. When gluing small parts, use tweezers.

After all the parts are glued, we leave the model to dry for about a day.

3. Our model has dried, now we can proceed to the next stage - sanding. All joints where gluing occurred should be sanded.

4. If the model turns out to have slight unevenness, then its surface should be covered with a layer of putty and, after drying, sanded again. The putty dries within 24 hours.

Before applying the putty, cover all areas where you do not want it to go. This can be done using masking tape.

The primer is applied from aerosol can at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from the surface of the model. After this procedure, we also leave our model to dry for a day.

6. After sanding, applying putty and primer, we begin the painting process. For your first model, choose a single color paint scheme. Because without proper experience, painting a two- or three-color model, and even more so camouflage, is quite difficult.

Paint small parts without cutting them out of the sprues; this is done to simplify the process.

You can paint the model using brushes, a can of paint, or use an airbrush with a compressor.

The painted model should dry for two days.

7. After the paint has completely dried, apply the decals that came with the kit to the surface of the model.

Essentially, decals are decals. Applying decals to the surface is simple - cut out the desired image, drop it into warm water for 15 - 30 seconds, and then apply to to the right place on the surface and lightly press with a napkin, thereby removing the excess layer of water.

Then we cover the surface with a layer of varnish and again let the model dry.

Perhaps these are the main stages of assembling plastic models of airplanes and helicopters. In any case, build quality comes with experience. So you shouldn’t put things off for a long time, quickly buy your first model, and there may be more than one, and dive into amazing world modeling!

So, you have decided to take up modeling, but you have very vague ideas (or no idea at all) about what it is, where to start and what is needed for it. In this short article I will try to describe in an intelligible and understandable way for every reader the entire process of creating good, high-quality models.

Please note that no matter how strange some of the steps in this guide may seem to you, you still cannot skip them, otherwise the model will turn out to be bad and incorrect. While reading the article, you may come across unfamiliar words - I will not compile a list of terms and describe their meaning - just search the Internet. We will learn from the principles of aircraft modeling, which are also suitable for other areas. The basics of modeling are the same for everyone. So!

Chapter 1 - Where to start?

Of course, with the purchase of the model itself. The most convenient place to purchase a model, as well as the accessories necessary for its assembly, is a model store. You will first have to find out where one is located in your city and go there.
In a model store you will see a large number (I hope you end up in a good model store) of boxes with beautiful pictures. If you don't understand anything about military equipment- choose the one you like the most. And if you understand, then you will probably find the model that you have wanted to see on your shelf all your life. I wrote “probably” because, most likely, you will not find just such a model. And if you ask the seller about the reasons for its absence, you will hear one of three: the first - “there is no such model now, come back in a couple of months”, the second - “there was a model, but it has been discontinued and will not go on sale again”, the third - “ “such a model is not produced by any, even the most meager, company.”

Well, you'll have to choose something else. Have you chosen? Great, let's move on to the next point - buying a tool. You can choose the tool completely intuitively. The fact is that in reality, to assemble a model, you critically need absolutely all the tools sold in a model store, but you shouldn’t buy everything, because when you start assembling, you will still realize that you still haven’t bought the most important tool due to its absence in the store and you will have to make it yourself. But more on that later.

The most important thing - don't forget to buy glue - the model cannot be assembled only with the help of moment and PVA lying around in your box, but don't worry, they will come in handy. I advise you to buy several adhesives at once - regular model, second, helium second... in general, choose what is closer to your heart. Don't forget to buy some putty, files, sandpaper... Then move on to the paint shelf. Here the situation is no better than with a tool. Again, you need ALL the paints sold in the store, but if you came to the store on your own and realize that you simply won’t bring the entire counter home, buy at least all the base colors, as well as those indicated in the assembly instructions your model.

Choose 15 brushes for yourself (if the store doesn’t have 15 brushes of different sizes, you can also buy brushes of the same size, but different manufacturers). Now you can move away from the paint counter. In essence, to paint the model you still need to buy an airbrush with a compressor, but you don’t have to rush yet. Until the moment you need them, you will find yourself in a model store more than once.

Now very important advice: While in a model store, under no circumstances should you consider how much money you will have to spend. You NEED to buy it anyway - why ruin your mood in advance? Do you remember? Great, now go back to the shelf with models and choose another model for yourself (you will understand why when you become a truly experienced modeler). Now go to the checkout and pay for your purchases. If you don’t have enough money, don’t even think about leaving any of the selected goods. It’s better to call your wife and ask to urgently bring the money set aside for the purchase of a refrigerator (don’t regret it, you won’t buy a refrigerator tomorrow anyway and you can always put it aside again, and you will have to assemble the model in the near future).

Chapter 2 - Assembling the model

Based on the fact that you did everything correctly in accordance with the first chapter, I can assume that you are already at home and ready to start assembling the model. The first thing you need to do is take everything out of the box and carefully examine all its contents. You should spend at least 15 minutes on this process. What is it for? Doesn't have of great importance- just look and enjoy. After you finish looking, put everything in a box, close it, find someone in the apartment (preferably a relative) and repeat the procedure in front of him. It is advisable to try to interest the person, but if you don’t succeed, it doesn’t matter either - just show him the contents of the box, put everything back and leave.

Note: if there is no one else in the apartment except you, then you will have to look at the contents alone for the second time, but do not miss this important step construction of the model.

Now take everything out of the box again, find the sprues on which the fuselage halves and wings are located. Find a tool in your purchases that can be used to separate these parts from the sprues. Separate and fold the fuselage halves together. Look at this structure for about 5 minutes, then attach the wings to it. Uncomfortable to hold? Try!

You can’t pull a fish out of a pond without difficulty, and for modeling this saying fits perfectly. Now find something to temporarily hold your structure in place, such as tape. Wrap all the parts together, place them on the table and admire them a little more. Now take everything apart initial position and put it in a box. Close the box and set it aside.

Chapter 3 - Workplace

To assemble a good model, you need to properly prepare the workplace. To do this, you will have to allocate a separate table (the larger the better). If you don’t have an extra table, or there’s nowhere to put it, you’ll have to convert your workplace (whatever it was previously intended for) into a modeller’s workplace. Let's assume that we are talking about a desk. If possible, remove from it everything that cannot be useful for assembling models and try to come to terms with the idea that you will have to write in the kitchen or somewhere else - it is not convenient to remove all model accessories from the table every time, especially since assembling models should take up most of your time.

Place a special model “rug” on the table. Oh yes, I forgot to add it to the list of necessary purchases in the model store, well, no problem, order it right now via the Internet. If you don't know what it looks like, just look through the entire catalog of the online store, and when you see it, you will immediately understand what we are talking about. To make the search easier, I’ll still give you a hint - it’s green and beautiful. The main thing is to buy a larger rug, preferably size A2 or even better A1! But let’s assume that you still thought of buying it in the store and we can move on. So, arrange all the tools around you. You don’t have to try to maintain order or some kind of sequence - anyway, after half an hour of work, everything moves between each other. Arrange the colors. Well, that's enough for today, you can go play with your child or do something else.

Chapter 4 - Reassembling

Let's get back to assembling the model. Ask your wife where she put everything that you laid out on the table yesterday (or whenever it was), explain to her that these things need to be handled very carefully and that in order to copy a cake recipe from the Internet it is not at all necessary to remove everything from table.

Find the model supplies in your toolbox (I think that's where they should be), and at the same time set aside anything that seems applicable to assembling the model. It could be wire cuttings, pieces of plastic, a burnt-out transformer - in fact, anything can come in handy, so choose for yourself.

Return to the room and prepare your work area again. Place the box with the model on the table, lay out the parts on the table and begin to study the instructions. Don't make your wife angry and go eat; if you don't go for too long, she will be offended. Arguments that you are busy with important work will have no force; you will also have to come to terms with this. After lunch, wash your hands and try to get back to assembling the model. If you are distracted by anything else, put off the assembly until the next free day.

Chapter 5 - Precision and Aftermarket Purchasing

So, you're back at your desk. Have you read the instructions? Now very important point- based on the fact that you want to assemble a good model, you can say with a 100% guarantee that the parts included in the kit are either inaccurate or poorly detailed. There are a lot of parts missing at all and you will have to buy additional detail kits, such as a resin cockpit or photo-etch. Most likely, the model store will not have these kits and you will have to order them online. After you order them, turn on your computer and find as many more photos the original aircraft that you are going to model. Think about which components and parts in your model are made incorrectly or are missing altogether.

As you look through the photos, you will have some questions, the answers to which you will not find, and you will have to find some good modeling forum, register there and ask your questions. After that, while waiting for a response, you can start browsing through all the topics in a row. Look at the clock - it's time for you to sleep. The next day, read what they told you, put the model aside and pick up the second one you bought in the store.

Repeat the entire process from the second chapter up to this point. Now you need to wait for your order to arrive from the online store. But you have something to do: while you were reading the forum, you probably realized that you did not buy some very important tools, as well as a compressor with an airbrush. Take all the money you have saved for the refrigerator and go to the store.

Make a list in advance, but you don’t have to take it with you, you will still need to look at all the counters and you will definitely remember everything. Buy everything you need and one more model. You can go home. Repeat at home with new model all the steps from the second chapter and hide it somewhere. Explain to your wife the need for a compressor and an airbrush, prove that the old refrigerator can be used without problems for several more years.

Chapter 6 - Build with Aftermarket

Did you get the package? Great! You can continue to assemble the model! Consider the photo-etch kit, decide which of its parts can be used, and which ones you will still have to make yourself. That's it, we can start. I will not go into great detail into the assembly process itself - all its aspects have already been described more than once, and skills will come with practice. I, perhaps, will focus my attention only on the most important dogmas of modeling:

• Try not to lose the instructions - they are quite useful. If you still cannot find it, start searching in the remaining boxes, then in the stack of magazines in the toilet - if this does not bring results, then you will have to spend considerable time searching.
• Before assembly, do not forget to check how the model fits into the drawings. Even if the inconsistencies are tiny, and you understand that no one will notice this on the assembled model, correct this defect anyway, no matter how much effort it costs you. After all, it doesn’t matter whether the error is noticeable if YOU know about it!
• When you cut off parts from the sprue (just for fun) that you will need only at the 30th assembly step, still think about how easy it will be for you to identify this part in the future. If you are assembling a cockpit and realize that the external antennas are very similar to one another, after cutting them off, try to remember well which one was under which number.
• Try to detail the internal components and elements as much as possible. Don't worry about whether these components will be visible on the assembled model. Even if not, and in order to admire them again you will have to break the model - work hard! What if someone breaks it someday and sees emptiness inside! The only thing is, don’t forget to photograph everything before you hide it in the fuselage forever.
• If you were careless to drop a part smaller than 30x30mm on the floor - do not try to find it - the likelihood of a positive search result is minimal - just waste time during which you can start making this part by hand, especially since it will be better homemade anyway. And when your wife brings the lost part a week later and asks: “Darling, what kind of plastic piece did I find under the refrigerator today?”, thank her and put this part in a special box - as a keepsake.
• If you don't like a handmade part even a little, remake it, no matter how much time you spend on it. Remember the main thing - YOU will know that this part is not as good as you would like.
• If during assembly you need to sand some part of the model (for example, after puttying), do not be afraid of damaging the jointing. It's still not right and you'll have to cut it completely!
• If you don’t find the tool you need for the job, remember: every tool (that’s right, every one) can be made from things you have at home. The only thing is that sometimes you will have to ruin something else to do this, but don’t stop even if this other thing costs more than the necessary tool - you don’t have time!
• Don't be discouraged if something doesn't work out for you - the prefix “re-” is integral to modeling. So words like cut, repaint, re-glue should not scare you. On the contrary, it should mean that you are doing everything right and are gradually becoming a real modeler!
• Try to develop a reflex among your roommates - not to disturb you when you are assembling the model. If the reflex is not developed, try not to pay attention to what is happening around you - abstract yourself.
• Your relatives should also remember that everything chemical substances, which you use are NOT harmful to health. But nevertheless, use them in a ventilated area and do not allow children into the room while using them - just in case.
• If during assembly you encounter a problem that you There is a snake. If you have eaten this reptile in raw or cooked form, you should pay attention to its health status. IN cannot be overcome (for example, the lack of the necessary material or the ability to manufacture some part) - put the model aside and start assembling another one.
• So that you don’t face another problem - the lack of a model that can be assembled, every time you go to the store for one jar of paint, buy one or two new models at the same time.

Chapter 7 - Painting

So, your model is assembled and ready to paint. Of course, you had to paint the internal components, I did not focus on this - you probably understood this yourself from the instructions. The only thing I forgot to say is that manufacturers really like to confuse modellers and specifically indicate the wrong colors in the instructions. Therefore, before you paint anything, following the instructions, be sure to check the original color photo. Because required photo, and even in color, you most likely will not find it, buy yourself several books on the device you are assembling and try to find in them information about what color this or that part could be painted on the model you are assembling.

If you don’t find such information in the book, try looking for an eyewitness. In fact, there are quite a lot of ways to find out what color to paint, say, the back of the pilot’s seat or any other part. But even if you don’t succeed, remember the main thing: under no circumstances paint everything one by one, as indicated in the instructions!

Now start painting the model itself. First, choose which color scheme you want to reproduce. The instructions usually indicate several options, but this is not enough for good painting. You will find a few more (5-10) on the Internet. Now you can choose. The choice should be to look for the option with the most complex camouflage (even if it turns out not to be the most beautiful). Otherwise, everyone will think that you are looking for simple ways and no one among modellers will respect you.

Apply a coat of primer to the model. Scratch your head. While you are scratching, think to yourself: “I seem to have putty on it... I seem to have sanded it too...”. Re-spackle and re-sand the model. Prime again. This process can be repeated an infinite number of times. The same goes for the painting itself. The main thing is to find out how to remove the paint you use. And go ahead, don’t be afraid - the air in the compressor will not run out, and paints, in general, are not that expensive. After you finally achieve the desired painting result, put the airbrush in a drawer, place a large fingerprint on the model in the most visible place, remove the airbrush from the drawer and repeat everything from the beginning.

Repeated? I hope you won't repeat the mistake with your fingerprint and will be more careful. Start with decals. I think you have already guessed that the decal that was sold to you with the model is incorrect and bad. Order several suitable decals from well-known, expensive manufacturers, ruin a few of the most complex pictures, and make them yourself. Now the model needs to be given a realistic look. To do this, you will have to “spoil” the impeccable result of your work with the airbrush - scrape, scratch, dirty, wash off, because there are no clean airplanes with unscuffed paint and without scratches!

Conclusion

Well, your first one is ready. high quality model. Spend a few hours photographing and place your model in a prominent position. The only thing is that in a visible place the model is exposed to many risks - such as, say, dust or careless movements of roommates. And, unfortunately, no matter how hard you try on the model, it still cannot fly and, touched by your wife wiping dust on the shelf, it quickly falls onto the parquet floor and scatters there into small pieces. Therefore, quickly move the model from a visible place to a safe place. It may be difficult to see there, but the model will live longer. And you assembled it not to look at it, but for the sake of the assembly process itself. Well, we found it safe place? That's all, you can move on to the next model.

Afterword

Of course, in this article I did not describe everything related to modeling, I described very little, and with each model you will gain more and more new skills. And if you really have never collected models, and this article was the first one you read, don’t stop there, maybe you should read other, more serious articles, but I hope that the essence of modeling is now clear to you. And if you have already assembled more than one model and read this article simply out of interest while the fifth layer of paint is drying on the model being assembled, I hope I have at least a little cheered you up.

Dopeless aka Rostislav Chernyakhovsky

Have you decided to get into modeling, but don't even know where to start? In this article we will try to talk about the key nuances of the process, as well as give some tips for beginners that professionals should also refresh their memory of. First of all, we note that modeling requires enormous effort and a lot of time. Assembling models hastily means turning them from potentially perfect products into a pitiful semblance of a cheap Chinese knockoff. If you are ready to work hard to create a real work of art, welcome to the world of modeling! So let's get started.

Where does modeling begin?

Of course, with the purchase of the model itself. The catalog of our store contains a lot of kits for beginners and professional modelers. If you don’t understand anything about military equipment, choose a model that you simply like and seems easiest for the first assembly. If you are interested military equipment and are well versed in it - you will probably find in the catalog exactly the model that you have always dreamed of seeing in your collection. If the model of the desired equipment is not available, contact a consultant; it is quite possible that it will be delivered to you on an individual order.

So, the model has been chosen - it’s time to start choosing tools. What do we need? Absolutely everything that is sold in the store, but it is often not possible to buy everything at once, and to assemble one model you may not need the tools that are needed to assemble another. There is a joke among modellers: “Choose tools intuitively, you will still forget to buy the most important thing.” Therefore, let us draw your attention only to the key and most necessary tools and materials.

The first thing every modeler should buy is glue, and a professional one at that. Superglue and PVA definitely won't work. It is advisable to purchase several glues at once in order to learn to understand the difference between them already in the process of assembling the first model - it is better to take second, helium and classic model glue. Next, we purchase a primer, a needle file, and sandpaper (both coarse and fine grain). Now pay attention to paints and enamels - for starters, you can buy colors that match the scheme of your model. However, in the future you will need absolutely all the paints and enamels presented in our catalog, you can rest assured.

Next, we move on to one of the main tools - brushes. It’s worth starting experiments from the very beginning, so buy a dozen brushes at once different sizes, types, forms and manufacturers. It may be more convenient for you to paint using an airbrush (spray) - if you have the money, you can buy that too. Don't forget to purchase a compressor for your airbrush. If you are not afraid of expenses, purchase all materials in the maximum variety. A novice modeler, like no one else, should conduct experiments and form his own style of assembly, priming, and painting.

Meet the model

As soon as you brought the model home, get ready for one of the most pleasant moments and hurry to lay out all the details on the table in front of you. It is at this time that you can plunge headlong into the wonderful world of modeling and feel all its charm. Carefully look at all the details presented, understand how creative, complex and at the same time exciting the assembly process will be. It is very important that in the process of getting acquainted with the details you correctly assess the scope of the upcoming work.

You are now completely ready to assemble your first model. Prepare work surface, separate the parts from the sprues. Try attaching several parts to each other. Understand how difficult this process will be, feel its beauty. Perhaps this is where you should end your first acquaintance with the model - put the parts in a box and put it aside. It's time to start vocational training and create a full-fledged working surface and modeller’s workplace.

Creating a workplace

Assembling a good model requires proper preparation workplace. It is advisable to have, if not a separate office, then a separate desk. You can refurbish your existing workplace or desk. To do this, remove everything unnecessary from the surface and from the boxes; from now on here you will only be engaged in assembling models. Believe me, you will have to store it in and on the table and spend a lot of free time here, so moving things and tools from place to place is extremely inconvenient.

A special rug for modelers is spread on the table. If possible, give preference to A1 format material. We already lay out all the necessary tools on it. Remember that you are creating your own workplace, so you can independently determine their sequence, degree of significance and, in accordance with these parameters, place them on the table in any order. Next, we arrange paints, brushes and other materials-tools.

Getting ready for assembly

In our case, preparing for assembly involves the need to understand: many things that you previously thoughtlessly threw away will now probably be needed by you. First of all, start collecting on an industrial scale all kinds of wires and their trimmings, pieces of plastic, sticks, glass jars and even caps from beer and vodka bottles. Don’t be surprised - in the future they will be very convenient to use to create a palette of colors.

At the same time, let me prepare you a little psychologically. The fact is that very soon you will truly find exciting hobby, which will take up the lion's share of free time. At the same time, most friends and family, for objective reasons, will not quite understand your passion for creating models. Try not to conflict with them and pay enough attention to your family and friends. Believe me, this hobby can be successfully combined with the opportunity to be a great son, friend, brother, husband, dad and colleague.

Purchase of an aftermarket

We invite you to sit down at the table again and study the features of the set you purchased. Look carefully at the instructions and the parts laid out in front of you. You may well find, and probably will, that many of them are either inaccurate, not well detailed, or simply not included in the set. That is why we suggest purchasing an additional detail kit (cockpit, photo-etching) in advance.

Working with afterlayout

Take a close look at the photo-etch kit you purchase and decide which design elements you will have to make yourself. We will not delve into the assembly process - there are instructions for this, and besides, the features of creating each new model are individual. Instead, let's note a few key nuances of the work that a beginner should definitely take into account and that a professional should not forget about. We will include the following points as such:

• Careful attitude to instructions. Following it is the key to successful assembly of the model;
• Multiple checks. Before work, look at how the parts fit on the drawings. If there are deficiencies, it is recommended to correct them immediately;
• Remember the numbering. When cutting parts from the sprue, especially small elements, try to remember their numbering so as not to get confused in the future;
• Detail the internal elements. Many modelers advise taking photographs interior decoration designs to its final assembly;
• Be careful with small parts, it is almost impossible to find them on the floor - use boxes and crates for storage;
• Don't be afraid to spend time fixing a part. with defects visible to you - it will be much more difficult to correct an already assembled model;
• There is no need to be afraid of damage to the jointing during the grinding process., for example, primers - feel free to polish the surface, achieving its ideal condition;
• Experiment with tools: Remember that many household items can be useful in model making.

Remember also that the materials you use, paints, varnishes and enamels are completely safe for human health. The only thing you should be wary of is paints with very pungent odors. These, for example, include nitro paints. They are recommended to be used only when the hood is running, and in rooms where small children have access, they are usually not used at all.

Features of painting the model

Painting a model is a creative and at the same time complex process from a technical point of view. We have already described it in one of the articles posted on our website, so we will only note the points unknown to you.

Firstly, trust the manufacturers, but always check them. On various forums you can find messages about the discrepancy between the colors specified by the manufacturer and the actual shades of the equipment. Therefore, do not be lazy to check the original and choose the color scheme yourself.

Secondly, take your time Special attention choosing a coloring option - some of them are presented in the instructions, some you will have to search on the Internet yourself. Make a choice in favor of yourself complex pattern- only in this case will you be able to win your first “respect” as a modeler.

Third, always use a primer (of course, if you are not working with nitro paints). It will help not only reliably fasten the surface of the model and the layer paint and varnish material, but will also smooth out roughness, numerous irregularities and other flaws.

Fourth, secure the parts to be painted on the holders and never touch them with your hands - one awkward movement and all the work will have to be done from the very beginning.

Conclusion

Don't be afraid to experiment. We have to repeat this again and again. Modeling is a combination of creativity and scrupulous study of instructions. Only in the process of assembling models do you gain invaluable experience, which is reflected in your technique and allows you to shape it individual style. Listen to the advice of experienced modelers, but always check them in practice - no one can be considered the ultimate truth. Be creative, learn from your mistakes and create real masterpieces. And we, for our part, are happy to help you with wonderful models and tools highest quality, presented in an incredibly wide range.

To assemble a model, the model itself and glue are completely insufficient. To assemble a model well, you will need a lot of tools, mainly inexpensive tools - a model knife. tweezers, sandpaper, glue, masking tape and paints.

Model knives and cutters

The most important of all tools is a good knife. For working with airplane models, a knife with a narrow blade is more suitable. The quality of the knife must be very good so that you do not have to sharpen the blade during operation. A surgical scalpel has proven itself well as a knife.

Skin

To clean the assembled model, you will need at least two types of sandpaper: coarser-grained for initial processing and very fine-grained for finishing. It is advisable to use waterproof sandpaper, since the grain is quickly clogged with worn-off plastic. Waterproof sandpaper should be dipped in water from time to time to wash away plastic filings.

Glue

The easiest way to assemble the model is with liquid quick-drying glue. It doesn't hurt to have a special glue for joining transparent parts.

putty

Special model putty is absolutely necessary for sealing all sorts of cracks that form after gluing, leveling surfaces, etc.

Masking tape

Masking tape is widely used when assembling models. It can not only protect surfaces when painting or puttying, but also hold parts together during gluing. It is advisable to use as thin a tape as possible.

Dye

A large number of paints are available for models, from miter to acrylic paints on water based. Finishing is best done with acrylic or oil artistic paint. In the latter case, the finished model must be sprayed with semi-matte varnish so that the entire surface becomes homogeneous. Oil paint gives matte surface, the airplane model should shine slightly.

Brushes

For painting you will need three brushes: a thin, a medium-sized and a large flat. It is advisable to buy artistic brushes with sable hairs. After use, brushes should be thoroughly washed and dried.

Brush "Revell", marten, No. 4/0

Brush "Revell", No. 2

A properly organized workplace is a big deal. It is preferable to have a separate big table, but you can also work in the kitchen when it is free. Lighting plays an important role. In dim light, you may not notice defects in the models.

Tool location

The entire tool must be placed neatly and at the same time so. so that it is at hand. There is nothing worse than searching for a missing knife during the assembly process.

File and CP

It is good to store separated small parts in transparent plastic files - everything is visible and will not get lost. It wouldn't hurt to have an album for files.

Tweezers

In a complete model kit there will always be parts that are too small for the rough fingers of the modeller. In this case, tweezers are indispensable. It is good to have two tweezers: regular and with bent tips.

Airbrush and compressor

The vast majority of modellers cannot imagine the painting process without an airbrush and compressor. In any case, you will have to purchase an airbrush and a compressor if you really want to engage in modeling more or less seriously. The airbrush and compressor will require the largest financial allocation, apart from family budget. Be prepared for this yourself and prepare your spouse (the latter is the most important!!!). It is generally accepted that painting with an airbrush is easier than with a brush. The question is debatable, but in any case, the result of painting with an airbrush, all other things being equal (the experience of the modeller), is superior to the result of working with a brush. In addition, a number of camouflage painting schemes for aircraft (Italian, German) from the Second World War period can only be done with an airbrush.

Knife set

One model knife is sometimes not enough; it is better to get three: with sharp, cut and rounded blades.

And you definitely need spare blades for a model knife. You can buy them at Tools Store or on Aliexpress: .

"Extra Hands"

Small metal alligator clips are a great help. Used by radio installers. They are good for holding small parts when gluing and painting.

When assembling and especially when modifying the model, you often have to drill holes, so it makes sense to get an electric micro drill and a set of small diameter drills. You can also use a drill different nozzles process the surface of the model.

Wire cutters

Separate parts from frames, bite off burrs, etc. It is best to use small side cutters, borrowed from the arsenal of a radio amateur.

File

A model with cut-out control surfaces looks much more realistic than one in which the rudders and ailerons are simply outlined by jointing. It is best to cut with a miniature saw. made from a razor blade.

Hole puncher

Hole punchers different diameters are useful for making stencils for identification marks, for example, Japanese “rising sun” circles. Painted markings are preferable to decals.

It is hardly possible to list all the tools needed to assemble the model. In addition to the objective factor, there is also a subjective one.

We are buying a model

We have acquired a tool, now we can choose a model. At first, the wisest decision is to stick with something simple, for example, one of the single-engine fighters of the Second World War: the North America P-51 Mustang, the Mitsubishi Zero or the R-47 Thunderbolt. By assembling these models you can acquire basic assembly and painting skills.

The models of these aircraft are relatively simple. Both in the 48th and 72nd scales they do not contain so many details. For the most part, it's like Thunderbolt. Both the Mustang and the Zero were painted in only two colors - a plain top and a plain bottom. It’s better to start with the 72nd scale, if only because of its cheapness compared to the 48th. If you don’t have experience, then why ruin an expensive model if you can ruin a cheap one?

After assembling several single-engine propeller-driven monoplanes, you can move on to experiments on multi-engine machines, “jets”, biplanes, as well as “whales” on a scale of 1:48 and higher (if you have the desire and have a separate apartment for ready-made models).

Examination

Once you receive the model from the seller, do not rush to thank him. Open the box and make sure that all the parts stated in the instructions are present, decals and especially the cockpit canopy. It would be useful to compare the casting with the aircraft declared on the box. Manufacturers from China can manage to put a Messerschmitt in a Spitfire box. not to mention the replacement of Bf.109E with Bf.l09G. Check the quality of the castings - there are underfills.

If you find complete compliance with the kit, thank the seller and run home to assemble the model. Take it at home necessary tools and place them neatly on your desktop. You can move on to the next stage.

Studying the instructions

You will probably start studying the instructions on the way. This is by no means forbidden (but also not encouraged - you can get hit by a car). Evaluate the instructions critically. Its author has his own view on the process of assembling the model, you may have yours. Sometimes it makes sense to change the build order. However. Don’t rush to scold the author if you don’t like something. Try to delve into the ideas that prompted the technologist to adopt this particular assembly order. Maybe he is right, and not you?

Checking for lice

The overall quality of the model is quite easy to check. Separate several large parts (halves of the fuselage or wing planes) and attach them to each other. If it worked out easily and without displacement, then you bought the Thing. If not, stock up on putty, sandpaper and patience. To avoid losing the cut parts, it is recommended to keep them in a special box. The parts should be separated from the sprues with a knife or side cutters, but under no circumstances should they be broken off. If necessary, the places where parts are attached to the frames should be cleaned after separation.

Fuselage assembly

So, you have examined the model. The euphoria has passed, you can get down to business. Let's start with the fuselage.

Cleaning parts

There may be traces of mold grease and other grease stains on the castings; these should be removed. Immerse the sprue or already cut parts in warm water for about ten minutes, then scrub them thoroughly with soap and an old toothbrush. Rinse in running water and lay it out to dry.

Stripping

After the parts have dried, clean the flat surfaces with a large piece of sandpaper and go over the sandpaper with the ends of the fuselage halves. The operation has two goals - to remove possible large irregularities, and to make the place where the halves are glued completely flat, removing traces of the pusher (if any), and slightly rough for better adhesion glue. Also clean the places where the parts attach to the sprues.

It happens that one of the fuselage halves is cast with protruding parts, for example, with the tail landing gear. There are two ways. The first is to cut the part and glue it after assembling the fuselage. The second way is to take a small one wooden block, wrap it in sandpaper and treat the end of the fuselage rugs, especially carefully sanding in the area of ​​the protruding part. It is best to scrape the part itself not with sandpaper, but with half a razor blade. Use a modeling knife to remove the flash. In addition to the factory, a small “burst” may appear when sanding. Some plastics will peel. Pay attention to the flash not only at the ends, but also in the area of ​​the cutout for the cockpit canopy, in the air intake opening, and in the places where the stabilizers and wing planes are glued. Remember: when the defect “comes out” during painting (and it will definitely “appear”), it will be too late to correct it.

Adjusting the lantern

Fold the fuselage halves. They must fit together perfectly. If necessary, repeat sanding the halves using sandpaper. Attach a flashlight to the folded fuselage (while it can be secured with rubber bands). The lantern, again, must fit perfectly “in place”. Otherwise, carefully sand it down to fit it to the fuselage. There are “deadly” options - the canopy is thicker than the fuselage. Well, sand the plexiglass, then run to the store for the GOI infusion. With GOI paste it is quite possible to restore the transparency of the flashlight to a more than acceptable level.

Modern modellers use Future Floor Finish (Floor Wax)- American floor polishing liquid. Adds transparency and shine to clear decals.

It is much worse if a gap forms between the canopy and the fuselage, and the top of the canopy fits perfectly into the back of the fuselage. Such a defect can be “treated” with putty. The trouble is the color of the putty - white or light gray. The interior of the cabin has a completely different color. Painting the inside of putty with a glued lantern is a more difficult task than assembling a model of a ship in a bottle. The process is elementary only in one case - when at the bottom of the fuselage there is a huge cutout for the center section.

Customizing the cabin interior

It's time to separate the cockpit interior elements from the sprues: the instrument panel, floor, back wall. Customize the parts to fit by grinding and inserting them into the fuselage halves. Often the floor and instrument panel are too wide for the fuselage halves glued together. On some models, the side panels of the cabin are cast integrally with the fuselage halves; on some, the floor of the cabin together with the side panels forms a kind of bathtub. The bathroom is also often wider than necessary. Adjust it to fit.

Now cut off the small parts of the cabin interior from the sprues - the control handle. pedals, pilot's seat. Peel them and put them in a box so as not to lose them.

Cabin interior painting

Sometimes during the construction process the models have to be painted individual parts or subassemblies, the cabin in particular. Small parts should be prepared for assembly and painting in the same way as large ones: removing broken parts, traces of pushrods, cleaning casting seams, washing, drying and degreasing.

Pay careful attention to the selection of paints for the cabin interior. Group the pieces by color. Parts that are painted in different colors Conveniently clamped in crocodile clips. Make sure that the alligator’s “teeth” grip the parts securely - jet compressed air quite capable of sweeping away a poorly secured part. First of all, the cabin itself is painted in the base color (most often this is internal sides fuselage halves). After the base tone has completely dried, proceed to “painting” with a brush the elements of the cabin “decoration”: radio remote controls, trimmer controls, oxygen supply valve, etc. Most often these elements are painted black, but other colors are also found.

Before assembly, it is also worth painting visible internal surfaces air intakes and engine cylinders.

Dashboard trim

The easiest way is to transfer the included decal to the dashboard. Almost all models are equipped with such decals and almost all decals, at best, correspond to the realities by 20-30 percent. Much greater realism can be achieved by painting the dashboard with a brush or water-based paints. oil based. Painting the dash the base color is necessary even when using a decal. It is easier to paint instrument panels on which individual instruments are imitated during casting, especially if the base color of the board, as on the Mustang or Zero, is black. The part is completely painted with matte black paint, then the edges of the instruments are outlined with a lead pencil. Finally, a drop appears on the instrument scale liquid glass Or, at worst, colorless nail polish, after drying the varnish or glass is lightly polished.

The Thunderbolt's instrument panel was painted black, and the instrument dials were painted white. Again, you'll have to start by painting the dashboard matte black. After complete drying, a drop of white paint is applied to the center of the imitation instrument scale and “smeared” to the edges of the instrument. After drying - varnish or glass plus polishing.

The next step towards realism is imitation of the instrument scales themselves. This work requires experience and accuracy. The scales are drawn with a thin brush.

Cabin interior assembly

After painting the interior elements of the cabin, you can begin assembly. Provided the parts are pre-fitted, it should not cause any difficulties. Contact points should be cleaned of paint. It is best to connect parts with liquid glue, using the capillary effect known from a physics course. The two parts are pressed tightly against each other, a drop is applied to the joint liquid glue. The drop will fill the smallest pores of the joint and the connection will be both strong and neat. When gluing, it is important that the glue does not get on painted surfaces, especially on the dashboard - painstaking work will go down the drain.

It is most convenient when the cabin interior is made in the form of a “bathtub”, as in the Thunderbolt model. The bath is assembled separately from the fuselage and after gluing it must dry at least overnight. With the first rays of the rising sun, you can try on the assembled module to the fuselage. If the module fits, glue it to one half of the fuselage and go to bed to fill it up. If not, adjust it using the familiar method of sanding, cutting and filing away excess plastic. After gluing the “bathtub” and the glue has set slightly, make a final check - once again put the fuselage halves together, one of which already has the cabin glued into it.

Assembling the fuselage halves

Typically, the instructions recommend applying glue to the joining surfaces of the fuselage halves. Most people do exactly this, but in this case there is a high probability of uncontrolled squeezing of excess glue onto the surface. external surfaces assemblies. It is better to use the already familiar capillary effect: fold the halves and coat them along the contour with liquid glue, apply the glue carefully with a brush. True, this case also has its pitfalls: adhesives can easily get on your fingertips, and the latter can leave imprints that are difficult to remove on the surface of the fuselage. Try to keep your fingers away from the fuselage seam when applying the glue. The glued halves should be clamped with something (rubber bands, clothespins) and left to dry.

After drying for several hours, it is necessary to clean the adhesive seam flush, having previously protected the pilot’s cabin from sawdust with tape. Sometimes the seam has to be puttied. The putty should also be given time to dry thoroughly. The seam is cleaned with sandpaper of different grain sizes (from medium to fine).

The first step in assembling the aircraft model has been completed. You can smile proudly, proud of your achievement.

Let's add a wing and tail

It makes sense to start with the tail: until the wing is glued to the stabilizer and rudders, the height is easy to approach.

Correction of defects in the brutal tail

On most small scale Mustang, Thunderbolt and Zero fighter models, the stabilizer halves are cast in one piece (top and bottom together). Most often they are free of defects. If there are defects, it is recommended to use “hot cleaning”.

Heat the water to a boil and lower the part with the unnecessary bend into it for a few seconds. Remove the part and straighten it before it cools down. Repeat the operation (heating-bending) until the defect disappears.

More fine details require less heating. All tail surfaces have fairly thin leading and trailing edges, which can be completely eliminated by bathing in hot water It's easy to damage the edges. It is advisable to bend only the thick layer of stabilizer.

Prepare the halves of the stabilizer for gluing - sanding, washing, drying and degreasing.

Adjustment of tail surfaces

Insert the stabilizer half into the fuselage. As a rule, the junction even at good models requires adjustment. The gap will have to be puttied after gluing, but in the meantime we need to evaluate how accurately the surface of the stabilizer matches the sagging on the fuselage. If the bead is thicker, then it needs to be adjusted to the profile of the stabilizer, but if the stabilizer is thicker, then it would probably be better to increase the bead profile with putty after gluing half of the stabilizer.

Alignment and attachment of tail surfaces

Now that you have adjusted the tail unit in place, you can begin gluing it. If the rudder is given separately, then start with it. Apply maple to the mating surfaces and press the rudder to the fuselage. In most cases, the rudder is glued as if it were in the neutral position, so make sure by examining the model from the front, rear and top several times that correct position steering wheel

After the adhesive seam of the rudder and fuselage has cured, you can begin to attach the horizontal halves. Each half must be glued strictly at right angles to the plane of symmetry of the fuselage. It is best to check by eye whether the stabilizer is glued correctly by inspecting the assembly strictly from the rear with a 90-degree turn. In this case, the stabilizer occupies vertical position and it’s easier to mentally compare the relative positions of its halves; the halves should be on the same axis. Having set right angles, secure the halves of the stabilizer with something (for example, masking tape) until the glue dries completely.

Wing

Wing planes are sometimes given in two halves, upper and lower, sometimes right and left upper parts and a common lower part for the right and left planes; there are also wing planes cast in one piece. Problems that can arise with a wing are akin to a stabilizer problem.

Aligning and gluing the rigid wing

Defects in the rigid wing are eliminated using the already familiar “heating-bending” method. Then the plane is adjusted to the center section. When gluing the planes, you should control the transverse “V” angle and the installation angle of attack. It is important to maintain the same angles of attack and “V” for both planes. Even small discrepancies in the angles of the planes will be clearly visible on the assembled model. It is convenient to control the uniformity of the transverse angle by the width of the gaps between the planes and the center section. Gluing the planes. Check the installation angles and secure the position of the wing with masking tape or tape. After the glue has hardened, the cracks are puttied and sanded. Working with emery at the junction of the plane and the fuselage is extremely inconvenient, and the jointing is almost always damaged during the work. However, there’s nothing you can do, don’t leave a gap. With the proper skill, it is quite possible to restore the jointing.

Alignment and gluing of wing planes from two halves

The first step is to grind the ends of the halves of the planes using sandpaper; a similar operation has already been done with the halves of the fuselage. Let's fold the halves of one plane and carefully examine. Ideally, the ends of the halves, their ends and jointing lines should converge. In practice, we usually have to remember the saying “the tail is out, the nose is stuck.” After combining the highlanders, one of the endings “leaves” somewhere, the jointing lines do not match. It is best to take the coincidence of the jointing lines of the upper and lower halves as a reference point when gluing. Preparation for gluing is carried out as usual. The halves are folded again and secured with narrow strips of camouflage data. Gluing occurs due to the work of the capillary effect - but the perimeter of the plane is passed with a brush with liquid glue. After the glue has set, the fixing strips are removed, and glue is dripped onto the joints that they covered. While one plane is drying, you can work on the second. Finishing of surfaces and, especially, the edges of the plane is carried out only after the glue has completely dried. The assembled planes are glued to the fuselage in the same way as solid halves. Once again, it doesn’t hurt to remind you: control the installation angles, first of all, the transverse “V” angle.

Aligning and gluing a three-piece wing

The process of assembling a wing from three parts (two upper halves of the planes and one lower one, cast in one piece with the lower surface of the center section) will be different than assembling wings from four and two parts.

Prepare the parts for gluing as usual. Replace the lower part of the wing and secure it with masking tape. Check the installation angles. Then place the upper ladles of the planes in place and also secure them with tape (the same problems may arise here as when joining the upper and lower halves of a four-part wing: mismatching of the tips and jointing lines). Check the cross "V" again. If you need to reduce the angle, insert thin plastic spacers of the same thickness into the gaps between the fuselage and the upper halves. Glue the lower wing piece to the fuselage. After drying, once again check the transverse “V” and the correct fit of the upper halves of the planes. If everything is fine, make the capillary effect work for the good cause of gluing the upper halves with bottom. After the main adhesive seam has set, remove the tape and apply glue to the joints previously covered with masking tape.

The assembly must be completely dry before puttying and cleaning. Sanding the edges of the wing and the junction of the planes with the center section completes an important step in assembling the model. Now the model already looks like an airplane.