Smart watch z4 review. Review of Smart Watch models. connector and expansion slot

Spinning reels

Redlub lubricants and oils for spinning reels

Most spinning reels are designed to last for many years with proper handling and maintenance. Basic recommendations for maintenance, which can be applied to all spinning reels: 1) Use only a small amount of material when lubricating, as excess may affect the performance of the coil;
2) The more often the product is used, the more often and more thoroughly the maintenance should be performed; 3) Your reel should be cleaned and re-lubricated if it has been dropped in mud, sand, or in many cases after being "drowned";
4) The reel must be completely disassembled, cleaned and lubricated at least once a year, before the onset of the active fishing season. Schematic diagram lubrication is given below. The lubrication points are as follows (some part names will vary between products). Lubrication: Crank Gear, Crank Shaft, Pinion, Center Shaft Assembly, Lift Handle, Roller Wheel, Anti-Slip Washer/Ratchet, Washers and Bushings. Redlub lubricants have the widest range of applications in fishing reels, from ultra-light to heavy classes.

Ryobi Excia MX 3000 coil lubrication diagram

Recommended scheme for using RedLub oil and lubricants for the Ryobi Excia MX fishing reel in sizes 3000-4000.

Shimano 15 Twin Power 4000 PG reel lubrication diagram

Recommended scheme for using Redlub oils and lubricants for the Shimano Twin Power TP-4000 PG fishing reel.
A coil of rare destiny. I caught a wedge on my first fishing trip due to a pinched GP. Got into my hands good specialist, and received new life thanks to in the right hands and Redlub lubricants. The following scheme was used to lubricate the coil: Now the owner enjoys its velvety sound that accompanies the move. Happy fishing everyone!

Shimano 15 Stradic 2500s reel lubrication diagram

Synth MV Main Pair

Uni Grease Infinite Screw etc. BV knife

PTFE Grease Friction elements inside the Rotor (springs, key slides)

Uni Grease RLU, Shackle Pusher, Spring

PTFE Grease Clutch Discs

WT Reel Oil Overrunning Clutch

WT Grease Knob Axis

WT Reel Oil Rod

LV Grease Bearings

PTFE Grease Handle Hinge

WT Grease Clutch Nut

NHNCH, fishermen!

Daiwa Crest 2500 coil lubrication diagram

One of the well-proven lubrication schemes: Main pair - MV Grease Auxiliary gears - WS + WT Reel Oil Guides - PTFE Grease Bearings - LV Grease Rotor filling - PTFE Grease Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil

Shimano 17 Ultegra C3000 reel lubrication diagram

Shimano 16 Stradic Ci4+ 2500s reel lubrication diagram

• Main couple - MV Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - WS Grease + WT Reel Oil
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Ratchets - WT Grease

Ryobi Zauber CF 3000 coil lubrication diagram

• Main couple - MV Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - PTFE Grease
• Bearings - WT Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - UNI Grease
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil

Shimano 11 Biomaster 4000 reel lubrication diagram

• Main couple - WS Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - WS Grease
• Endless Screw - UNI Grease
• Guides - UNI Grease + WT Reel Oil
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Reel lubrication diagram for Daiwa 17 Exceler LT 3000D-C

• Main couple - WS Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease
• Guides - WT Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Lubrication diagram for Daiwa 11 Theory 2500 reel

Main pair - MV + WS Grease Auxiliary gears - Uni Grease Rotor filling - PTFE Grease Friction brake - Uni Grease Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil Housing sealing - WT Grease

Lubrication diagram for Daiwa 08 Advatage 4000 coil (broken)

The lubrication scheme was chosen to smooth out noise as much as possible: Main pair - PTFE Grease Auxiliary gears - Uni Grease Guides - WT Grease Rotor filling - PTFE Grease Friction brake - PTFE Grease Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil Housing sealing - WT Grease

Lubrication diagram for Daiwa KIX series reels

• Main couple - WS Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease
• Guides - WT Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Ryobi Ecusima 3000 coil lubrication diagram

• Main couple - WS Grease
• Auxiliary gears - Uni Grease (lower - PTFE)
• Guides - WT Grease
• Bearings - LV Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction brake - UNI Grease
• Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil

Shimano 16 Nasci 2500 reel lubrication diagram

• Main couple - WS Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease (Bottom PTFE)
• Guides - WT Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - Uni + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Shimano 13 Biomaster SW 5000 reel lubrication diagram

Tried and proven lubrication scheme: Main pair - Uni Grease Auxiliary gears - Uni Grease Endless screw - WS Grease Endless blade - Uni Grease Guides - WT Grease + WT Reel Oil Rotor filling - PTFE Grease Friction brake - PTFE Grease Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil Housing sealing - WT Grease

Shimano 12 Rarenium CI4+ 4000FA reel lubrication diagram

A well-proven lubrication scheme on a moderately “tired” coil:

• Main Couple - Uni Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - WT Grease
• Bearings - LV Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Shimano 12 Ultegra 2500 reel lubrication diagram

• Main couple - MV Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - WT Grease + WT Reel Oil
• Bearings - LV Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - UNI + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Shimano 08 Biomaster 1000 reel lubrication diagram

Lubrication diagram for coil in good condition without wearing out the pair:

• Main couple - WT Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - WT Grease + WT Reel Oil
• Bearings - LV Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - WS + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil

Ryobi Krieger 3000 reel lubrication diagram

A lubrication scheme that has shown itself to work well on an already used coil:

• Main couple - WS Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease
• Bearings - LV Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - UNI + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil

Shimano 17 Ultegra C2000S reel lubrication diagram

Lubrication scheme for a new coil, in order to re-lubricate and make it run smoother:

• Main Couple - Uni Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - WT Grease + WT Reel Oil
• Bearings - LV Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - UNI + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Shimano 15 Sedona 2500 reel lubrication diagram

• Main couple - MV Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - Uni Grease
• Guides - WT Grease
• Rotor filling - PTFE Grease
• Friction Brake - PTFE Grease
• Line roller - Uni + WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Shimano 09 Rarenium CI4+ FB reel lubrication diagram

The lubrication diagram on a reel that has already seen a lot has proven itself well:

• Main Couple - Uni Grease
• Auxiliary Gears - MV Grease
• Endless Screw - WS Grease
• Guides - WT Grease
• Bearings - WT Grease
• Rotor filling - Uni Grease
• Friction Brake - Uni Grease
• Line roller - WS+ WT Reel Oil
• Rod and overrunning clutch - WT Reel Oil
• Housing sealing - WT Grease

Detailed comparison of Shimano Stradic 16 and Complex 17 reels

On youtube channel Onlyspin has a wonderful video comparing two Shimano reels. Enjoy watching.

Multiplier reels

Redlub oils and lubricants for multiplier reels

Most baitcasting reels are designed to last for many years. reliable operation at correct use and service. Basic maintenance recommendations that are suitable for most "mults": 1) Be careful when applying oil, grease and use only a small amount of each material, excess may affect the performance of the product;
2) The more often the product is used, the more often and more carefully the coil should be serviced; 3) The product must be cleaned and re-lubricated both after salt-water use and if it has fallen into mud, sand, and often after “drowning;”
4) At least once a year, the coil should be cleaned and lubricated.
Lubrication points are as follows (some part descriptions may vary):
Lubrication: main gearbox, gear, gear clamp, worm shaft (light lubrication), worm gearbox, spacer slider, protective cover worm shaft, Anti-Reverse ratchet (if applicable), continuous anti-reverse clutch (if applicable) and bushings,
Oil: Spindle shaft, reel shaft ends, handle knobs (both sides), reel release mechanism, level stabilizer beam and ball bearings.
Most general scheme application of Redlub lubricants, in the case of baitcasting reels, looks like this:

Multiplier reels (Medium - Hard)

Friction discs - PTFE Grease

Friction elements inside the body (springs, key slides) - WT Grease

Infinity Drive - Uni Grease*

Drive Gears (DR) - PTFE Grease

Infinity - WT Grease

Carrier nest - Reel Oil

Refinishing - LV Reel Oil

Key ends - PTFE

*depending on gear material combination

Multiplier reels (Medium - Light)

Friction discs - PTFE

Friction elements inside the body (springs, key slides) - Winter Grease

Infinity Drive - Winter Grease*

Drive Gears (DR) - Winter Grease

Infinity - LV Grease

Carrier socket - LV Reel Oil

Refinishing - LV Reel Oil

Key ends - PTFE

*depending on the combination of gear materials.

Feeder reels

Preston PCR 4000 and 5000 feeder reel lubrication diagram

But the first one arrived in time working diagram lubricants for Preston feeder reels using Redlub lubricants.

PRESTON PCR 4000 and 5000

This section will be updated, stay tuned!

General issues

Should fishing reels be serviced?

This issue is still raised and discussed in the fishing community around the world. We answer - Yes. Fishing reels need to be maintained. During operation, the mechanism of a fishing reel is subjected to various loads, depending on conditions. And any mechanism, regardless of our
their desires, subject to wear and tear. Most of the newest reels from reputable manufacturers will give you fishing pleasure for at least several years. Products from lesser-known manufacturers may require maintenance after a season or less. Separately, it should be said about fishing reels coming to our country from Chinese manufacturers. There are cases when not just single coils, but entire batches arrived from factories “dry”. And by the appearance various kinds sounds, already in the first year of operation - you can surprise not many.
One of the main desires of any angler is the durability of the reels. Yes, yes, each of us wants his reel to last as long as possible. In most cases, timely maintenance will avoid problems with wear, corrosion, jamming, eliminate various sounds, and you can once again enjoy fishing to the fullest. Only the first time you will have to spend a significant amount of time. In the future, with experience, this will become an easy task for you and will take from 30 minutes to an hour.

How to prepare for self-service of the coil?

Special attention should be paid to the process of preparation for self-service fishing reel Preliminary stage: 1) Prepare an explosion diagram of your coil (included in the box upon sale) or on the Internet. 2) If you are starting to maintain a fishing reel for the first time, you should be patient and time, you will need from 1 to 2 hours. 3) Prepare your workspace, clear away work surface everything is superfluous. 4) Cover your workspace. A couple of disposable ones will do paper towels, sheets of A4 paper or a piece of, preferably white, fabric.
Consumables: 1) You will need from one to three types RedLub greases; 2) Specialized oils for RedLub reels; 3) Flushing liquid. An excellent cleaner for car brakes (in aerosol can). Try to avoid solvents that leave greasy films on surfaces; 4) A pair of cotton swabs; 5) Clean rags.
Tools and auxiliary materials: 1) A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver with a set of attachments, always of good quality; 2) Wrenches No. 8-10 and No. 12-14; 3) Small pliers; 4) Tweezers for working with small parts; 5) A pair of brushes with short and dense bristles; 6) A small container for washing liquid. To wash sealed bearings and disassemble them, you will need something like a glue or sealant spout.

How to maintain sealed ball bearings?

This question is relevant for many fishermen.

And if there are very few difficulties with open balls, due to the peculiarities of their design, then closed bearings (both non-separable and collapsible) can cause a lot of difficulties.

Here each of us must make a choice on our own: who is he - a barbarian, a pirate or a hussar? – We declare with a great degree of confidence that “tearing out” anthers from closed bearings is barbaric. The text below will help you solve the problem of dry grease in the bearings of your reels.

Long service life, fishing in various weather and temperature conditions, moisture are the main factors that influence the appearance of extraneous sounds in closed ball bearings. It should be noted here that open bearings are even more susceptible to external influences.

Long-term washing of closed “balls” in a mixture of solvents, with periodic rotation of them to develop and further soften the remains of old lubricants, will clean the bearing of dried lubricant.

Of course, professionals with a large flow of “coil” use Ultrasonic baths for these purposes, which significantly speeds up and facilitates the process. But don’t despair - periodic rotation of the bearings, a long period of exposure to cleaners, and even at home you can achieve excellent results.

So, have you washed the balls and removed all the old and dried grease from them?

Now you will need Redlub LV Grease and a trip to the pharmacy to purchase a syringe for insulin injections.

The distance between the bearing boots and the inner race is a fraction of a millimeter. Be careful and careful!

Press the needle of the lubricant-filled syringe firmly. Press the beveled side of the needle against the seam with a handy micro-screwdriver (tweezers, finger, etc.), and slowly squeeze out the lubricant, smoothly turning the bearing with your free finger.

Remember that excess lubricant is also harmful. Keep at it and you will succeed.

Your “balls” will be like new;)

Prepared using publicly available materials. Klimova A.I.

Watch the video version on Alexey’s Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/BgYrS0lAvAi/?taken-by=klimov.a.i

Lubricant kits RED LUB

Shimano on infinity (1000-2500):

WS Grease - endless screw

Shimano on infinity (3000+):

PTFE Grease - Friction Brake, Rotor

WT Reel Oil - rod, backstop, synthetic grease thinning

Simple cartoons:

WS Grease - main pair gears

WT Reel Oil - reverse stopper, pinion axis, bobbin bearings (for reels working with weights 15+ gr.), brake mirror, dilution of synthetic greases

Multi micromodule:

PTFE Grease - Rubbing parts (key cheeks, GP release mechanism, frame under the entire mechanism)

MV Grease - main pair gears

WT Reel Oil - reverse stopper, pinion axis, bobbin bearings (for reels working with weights 15+ gr.), brake mirror

Daiwa on the wing (3000+):

WS Grease - main pair gears

PTFE Grease - Friction Brake, Rotor

WT Reel Oil - rod, backstop, synthetic grease thinning

Daiwa on the wing (up to 2500):

MV Grease - main pair gears

PTFE Grease - Friction Brake, Rotor

WT Reel Oil - rod, backstop, synthetic grease thinning

Belleville springs (spring washers) for endless screws.

How to use, install and why they are needed. Watch the video on Alexey Klimov’s channel.

Chinese reels

Maintenance of fishing reels made in China

There are a great many manufacturers of fishing products from China. General principles design and borrowing technologies, application of the simplest technical solutions- that's the most general description fishing reels from China. An extensive FAQ on the maintenance of fishing reels from China will appear here soon. Stay tuned.

Those. documentation

Redlub Lubricants Technical Data Sheets

Sheet technical description Redlub Synth Winter Grease Redlub Synth MV Grease Technical Description Sheet Redlub Synth Uni Grease Technical Description Sheet Redlub Synth WT Grease Technical Description Sheet Redlub Synth PTFE Grease Technical Description Sheet Redlub Synth WT Reel Oil Technical description sheet of the tested lubricant Redlub Synth WS Grease

Maintaining fishing reels and preparing them for the season or specific fishing conditions is not an easy task.

This section of our website will help you overcome all difficulties.

Here you will find:

Tips on specific applications of fishing reel lubricants and oils;

Consultations from specialists with many years of experience;

Complete instructions and maps for using lubricants and oils for fishing reels from leading manufacturers.

​ ​

If you did not find the answer to your question in the materials in this section -
ask it to us! Our specialists will definitely answer!

If your favorite reel begins to make sounds that are incompatible with fishing, and you lose peace
dream, then read below, there are no incurable diseases!

Sooner or later, almost every angler who is more or less passionate about what we all love so much, faces the issue of maintaining and preparing for the season his fishing reels.

We understand perfectly well that a reel is a mechanism that during operation undergoes various loads to a greater or lesser extent, depending on the conditions of use, and, no matter how much we would like it, is prone to wear. No matter how cool, technologically advanced, or, if you want, expensive, the reel is, it is one way or another prone to wear out over time. It's unavoidable. It is unlikely that I will be mistaken in my statement that each of us wants the reels to serve faithfully long years and didn't break. But, as they say: “If you love to ride...”, you also love to maintain your equipment. Of course have easy option The solution to this issue is to take the “patient” to a specialist who specializes in servicing and repairing this type of equipment, and not rack your brain. But what to do if there is simply no such master in your city? And masters do not always turn out to be truly masters. Sometimes it turns out that the master does not do everything efficiently and scientifically (yes, unfortunately, such cases are no exception). Don't service it and leave it as is? Not at all. Needs service. This procedure is extremely necessary, as it will help preserve the performance of the coil for many years, and you can do it yourself, at home.

Let's start in order.

Preparing for service

In any business, preparation is important. To begin with, you should decide on a convenient time for carrying out maintenance, because the time required, especially if you take on this matter for the first time, ranges from 1 to 3 hours. It is also worth paying attention to preparing the workplace where all the action will take place, removing everything unnecessary from the table and ensuring maximum free space and good lighting. I recommend that you always place either paper (any kind, newspaper or printer paper) or a clean (preferably white or plain) cloth on the table. This will prevent the table surface from becoming contaminated with lubricants and flushing liquids. Next, you should prepare tools, auxiliary and lubricants, and an explosion diagram of the coil (you will find it in the box in which the coil was sold, otherwise the Internet will help you, fortunately there are no difficulties with this).

Tools and auxiliary materials

For work we will need:

a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver with a set of attachments, always of good quality;

wrenches No. 8-10 and No. 12-14;

small pliers can sometimes come in handy, and it’s better to have them at hand than to run around looking for them later;

tweezers, needed for working with small parts;

a pair of brushes with short and dense bristles, with which we will clean the coil both inside and outside;

needle from medical syringe, for opening bearings;

a wooden conical round stick, with its help we will wash the bearings;

You will also need cotton swabs, clean rags and a small container for washing liquid.

Let's start disassembling

After everything preparatory work carried out, we proceed to disassembling our coil. First of all, unscrew the handle, remove the spool and put them aside. We don’t need them yet, but we will definitely return to them. Next, to gain access to the insides of our coil, you need to remove the rotor. Before removing it, it is worth freeing the spool rod from the elements of the bobbin assembly by removing the adjusting washers, the bobbin bearing (if any) and the clutch ratchet.

Important! Removing the listed elements, and indeed disassembling the entire coil, should be carried out carefully, consistently and slowly, since the design contains many small parts, which are sometimes not marked on the diagram. If the analysis is not carried out carefully, then the risk that you will have unnecessary parts left on your table upon completion of the work tends to 100%.

I recommend that all parts removed from the reel be placed in the order in which they were removed and always in the position in which you removed them. That is, if you hold the reel with the rod up and the back side down, then put the adjusting washers, bearing and ratchet with the top up, so that later it will be easier to assemble in the reverse order, and not rack your brains over the question: “How did it stand here? This way or like that?” And even easier - take photos or videos of the disassembly process. So you definitely can't go wrong.

When the rod is freed from all attachments, you can begin to remove the rotor. For this you will need wrench and possibly a screwdriver. There are two types of rotor nuts: left-handed and right-handed. As a rule, the direction of the nut thread is indicated on the rotor, but if there is none, then a lock bolt, which can be installed at the rotor mounting nut, will serve as a clue. If there is a bolt, it means the nut has a right-hand thread (correct thread) and is unscrewed as usual, but only after unscrewing the locking bolt; if it is not there, the nut is “left” and unscrewed in the opposite direction.

On a note. In general, you should be very careful with these nuts, as they are quite delicate. Some reels have nuts with a bearing pressed into them. Try to avoid distortions and misalignment of the threads during installation, and do not overdo it with the tightening torque. Excessive force may cause the thread to break. The nut should be tightened gradually and without fanaticism.

The rotor was successfully removed and put aside “until better times,” as was the spool and handle, and we got to the reverse stopper. For Daiwa reels, it is radically different in structure from what the manufacturer Shimano installs on its reels. In the first, it is enclosed in a special socket on the coil body and closed with a metal “eared” plug (photo 1), so it is somewhat more difficult to remove from the coil body; for the latter, it is made in the form of a separate removable element (cartridge, box) connected to the reel body with screws (photo 2).

Dismantling is simple, but the whole point of this type of fitting is that the inner bushing is figured and has a working, wider part. The explosion diagram does not indicate exactly how it should be installed, therefore, when removing the trim ring, remember the correct location of the inner sleeve and the washer installed under it. That's right - the wide part from the coil body (photo 3, 4, 5).

Now we remove the decorative trims from the back of the reel and from the side panels (if any), the retaining rings of the drive gear bearings (available on some models of budget reels price segment) and proceed to halving the body.

Let me remind you that it is best to remember what, where, and in what position you dismantled. For example, the screws connecting the two halves of the case are, in most cases, different diameter, thread pitch and length, and which one was installed where is also important to remember.

Now let's open the case. Here again there are nuances... There are two halves, left and right, and they need to be separated in correct location, so that all the “guts” do not spill out onto the table or, even worse, under it. The rule is simple - the left side is always empty, that is, roughly speaking, the lid, so we place the reel on the table with the right side and carefully, without sudden movements, remove the left side of the case.

Important! When disassembling the housing, all internal parts, and especially the main pair (drive gear and pinion (driven gear)) must remain motionless so as not to shift their position.

Cleaning and washing of all parts and components of the mechanism

A little about the flushing fluid. Through experience, I came to the conclusion that the best option- This is a brake cleaner in the form of a spray (used in car services).

It perfectly cleans metal surfaces, without leaving behind any “traces” in the form of greasy films, which cannot be said about nephras, such as White Spirit. Isopropyl alcohol also works well for this task.

First you should wash all the bearings. In most cases, the reels have bearings closed type, often collapsible. For high-quality washing, it is enough to open the bearing race on one side, pick up the ring with a needle and remove the boot.

The retaining rings of the anthers are very thin and tend to shoot out different sides. To prevent such incidents, you can use a rubber thread or rubber band, tying it around the bearing housing. This way you will definitely not lose the boot stopper.

Dismountable bearings are washed very easily by placing them on a conical stick and then lowering them into the washing liquid and rotating them. This way all dirt and used lubricant are washed out of the bearing.

Non-separable bearings can be washed using aerosol cleaners. Under high pressure a stream of cleaner penetrates inside the cage and also cleans it well of dirt and old grease. The most the best way washing bearings (unless, of course, they are ceramic) is to wash them in an ultrasonic bath (USV). But the main thing here is not to overdo it and not wash them in the RAS for too long. It is better to carry out the procedure in 2-3 passes for 1-2 minutes. This way you’ll wash it better and won’t damage the bearings.

On a note. An ultrasonic bath is a good thing, but don’t forget about side effect- cavitation that occurs in the cleaning solution during operation of the RAS. It can have a detrimental effect on the metal.

After washing, the bearings should be dried by letting them lie on a cloth or cotton pad for 10-15 minutes.

In the meantime, we will wash the remaining parts and components of the mechanism in the same cleaner, with the exception of all kinds of washers. It is better to simply wipe them with a dry, clean rag. On the first pass, we wash away any remaining old lubricant and possible dirt from the parts. After this, it is imperative to replace the flushing fluid with fresh (clean) one and repeat the procedure again. To wash gears, it is convenient to use brushes with dense and short bristles. (Personally, I took some kind of makeup brush from my wife.) They clean all the grooves and gear teeth well.

After washing all the parts of the mechanism, you need to wipe them with a clean rag and place them on a clean surface. Don’t forget to clean the reverse stopper (overrunning). It is done very simply - a non-lint cloth is moistened with a cleaner and inserted into the hole of the roller bearing. We make several revolutions of the bearing in different directions and that’s it - the rollers are cleaned.

The sleeve, which is placed inside the roller bearing, can also be wiped with a rag soaked in cleaner. After cleaning, I try not to touch it with my hands, but install it on the reel, holding it through a rag with cleaner. Lastly, we clean and rinse the internal cavity of the reel body, and also wipe it dry.

Lubrication and assembly

All parts are washed and ready for assembly. But first they should be treated with lubricants. For bearing lubrication, I use both grease (for non-speed and support bearings) and special fishing reel oil, which is usually supplied with the reel. It can also be purchased in fishing stores and on the Internet. For other parts I use thick spray lubricant Daiwa Reel Guard Grease, less often SFT Grease Spray for reel.

The bearings are lubricated and assembled first. A couple of “sprays” or 2-3 drops of oil in the clip will be quite enough.

We roll the grease over the bearing and after a couple of minutes you can install the boots back. But on other parts, lubricant should be applied in moderation; here the “porridge and butter” principle does not work. First, apply lubricant to the drive gear and leave it until assembly.

If we use a spray lubricant, then the reel mechanism is lubricated after installing it in the housing; if the lubricant is thick, not in the form of a spray, then we apply it with a brush to all parts before installing them in the housing. Next, we install all the parts and assembled components of the reel mechanism into the housing in the reverse order of disassembly.

Let's move on to the rotor

It also needs to be disassembled, cleaned, washed and lubricated. We dismantle the line handler, decorative trims on the sides and that’s it hanging elements. Under the decorative trim on the side of the line roller there is a return spring and a pusher for closing the bow. They also need cleaning and lubrication. There is nothing complicated or special here, the main thing is to be careful with the springs so that they don’t shoot out somewhere. Clean, lubricate with thick lubricant and install back.

We do the same on the other side, however, it is empty there and there are no mechanisms, but the rubbing parts still need to be wiped clean of dirt and lubricated seats new grease.

Line roller

One of the most important nodes spinning reel. Cheaper reels often have sliding bushings installed in the roller; reels of a higher class have ball bearings. But no matter what is on your reel - definitely disassemble, clean, wash and lubricate!

The operating rules are the same. We remember what was installed and in what order, clean it of dirt and used grease, lubricate it with two or three drops of oil and put it back together. This procedure is recommended to be carried out with some frequency to ensure comfortable and quiet operation this node. The frequency of mini-maintenance of the line roller assembly depends on the frequency and operating conditions of your reel. The need for this procedure can be determined by ear. If you hear any extraneous sounds, emitted by this unit - do not be lazy, disassemble and lubricate. Sometimes this has to be done even in the field.

Finish line

Most of the work is already behind you; you can install the rotor in place and check the smooth running of the coil. After assembly, the rotation of the reel handle should be easy, without any extraneous noise or any snagging of the mechanism. If you assembled everything correctly, then this is exactly what will happen.

All that remains is to service the reel handle and friction brake. Yes, the clutch also needs maintenance. It consists of several pairs of metal and felt (or carbon) brake discs mounted at the front of the spool. To remove the brake discs, you must first remove the shaped retaining ring.

There is no need to wash the discs in a cleaner; just wipe them with a dry, clean cloth. You also need to remove any dirt that has accumulated in the bobbin socket. The brake discs need to be lubricated with oil or a small amount of grease and reinstalled, secured with a locking ring. There is also nothing complicated with the handle. Remove the decorative plug of the knob, unscrew the cylindrical nut (or screw) and remove the knob from the handle axis. Carefully remove the bearings (or bushings) and washers. We remove dirt, if any, old grease and, if necessary, wash the bearings. Lubricate with oil and put it back together.

That's all, our reel has been serviced and is almost ready for use. After servicing, I recommend replacing or rewinding the cord. Check the quality and taper of its winding, and, if necessary, adjust it by adding or removing bobbin adjustment washers. If the winding cone narrows greatly towards the reel body, you need to add one or more washers, but if the opposite is true, then the washers need to be removed.

To summarize all of the above, I would like to note that all my tips and recommendations can be called typical and can be applied to almost all reels, ranging from budget to above-average class. Top reels have more complex kinematics and are made using various modern technologies, supposedly eliminating the need for their maintenance. Therefore, I do not recommend servicing such reels without having the proper experience and skills in this matter.

Let your coils serve you faithfully for many years, and you, in turn, do not forget to maintain them on time.

In the next part I will talk about the features of maintaining multiplier reels.