Folding boat. Collapsible portable boats of the simplest design. Folding boat parameters

Before you start building a wooden boat, you need to prepare the main part of such a structure - the sides. To do this, you need to take the smoothest, longest, wide enough boards that are made of spruce or pine.

Look at the photos of homemade boats and you will see that there are no boards on its sides that have knots - this is very important. The boards for this part of the boat must remain in a dry place under slight pressure for at least one year.

Choosing boards for work

Before production begins, it is necessary to once again make sure that the boards are absolutely suitable for the job. Next, for each board you need to measure the required length and carefully cut them at an angle of 45 degrees. These boards will go to the bow of the boat.

After this, you need to plan them and check that the boards connected to each other do not have any gaps. Then treat the ends with an antiseptic.

The next step is to prepare the bow of the boat, using a triangular block. It should be one and a half times longer than the width of the sides. The timber is also planed and covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Further instructions for making a boat with your own hands is to select a suitable board for the stern of the boat. Do not neglect the supply, because it is better to cut off the excess later than to search and start all over again.

Boat assembly

When the elements of the wooden boat are assembled, you need to begin assembling the product. You should start from the bow. Both sides and the triangular block must be connected to each other using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to immediately cut off the protrusions at the top and bottom so that they do not interfere in the future.

The next step is very important and responsible, since it is necessary to give the future boat its shape. You need to decide on the width of the boat and place a spacer in the middle. Choose a board for the spacer that is the same size as the height of the boat, so the sides will not burst.

Once the brace is properly installed, you can begin to shape the boat, call a few people to help or stock up on ropes to hold the structure in place.

Use the drawings and adjust the dimensions of the stern to make the boat so that when connecting the back wall and sides there are no gaps or cracks.

When the backdrop is installed, cut off the excess part from below, and on top you can make an element in the form of a triangle. Next we are working on the spacers, which will constantly maintain the shape of the boat, as well as the seats, which are installed on top of the spacers. You can determine the number, as well as the location of these elements yourself, so it can be one, two or more places.

We align everything on the bottom in one plane and treat the entire surface with a protective layer. When the glue dries, start making the bottom of the boat.

The best option for the bottom would be a galvanized sheet of metal. Try to find a sheet that matches the size of the boat.

How to make the bottom of a boat with your own hands

Place the future boat on a sheet of metal and trace its boundaries with a marker, do not forget to take a few centimeters of extra space just in case, you can always trim off the excess.

The next step is to cover the connection of the boat with its bottom with a special silicone sealant along the entire length in one line. On top of the sealant, until it has dried, a cord is laid in several rows - all this is necessary to ensure that the bottom of the boat is airtight and does not let water inside.

When this process is completed, we move on to connecting the bottom to the frame. Carefully place the bottom of the boat over the bottom of the boat. Use nails or screws to connect.

Start connecting from the middle and move towards the edges of the boat. Do the work as slowly and carefully as possible, as this part is very important.

We cut off the excess metal that sticks out more than 5 mm from the edge of the boat, and bend the rest with a hammer. It is also important to protect the bow of the boat from external factors using the same metal. Cut a rectangle of tin to the size of the boat.

Wherever wood and metal are connected, it is necessary to go through with sealant and lace. By this time, before you start “wrapping” the bow with metal, you need to treat the entire boat with an antiseptic.

Be sure to make a fastening on the bow for the chain. This will help if someone wants to steal a brand new boat, since on a body of water it will attract special attention due to its newness.

Before you build a boat, think through and look at all the ideas that you can use to make a boat. Perhaps you will choose a special material for yourself that will be more convenient for you to work with, or maybe you need special protection or massiveness.

Do not forget to cover the bottom with special paint on the back side, since galvanized metal is destroyed over time when in contact with water. The wooden parts of the boat must be coated with several layers of special impregnation and the boat must be left to dry in the shade.

For convenience, a wooden flooring can be laid out inside the boat at its bottom. This way the bottom will not rattle when you move along it.

At this point the boat will be ready. Read in more detail the article on how to make the best homemade boats with a description to find out some other nuances that may be useful to you in future construction.

DIY boat photo

We offer you two designs of homemade folding boats.
The first one, shown in the following figure, is very easy to manufacture and weighs only 13-17 kg.
To make it you will need two sheets of 4 mm plywood measuring 1525x1525 mm, a wide pine board 1.5-2 cm thick, thin slats, drying oil, oil paint, strips of tin 2-2.5 cm wide (can be cut from tin cans) and 50mm nails.

First, cut out two pieces of sheathing 1 and blanks from boards 2, 3 and 4 from plywood, having previously covered them on both sides with plywood scraps. Coat the cut blanks and sheets of plywood at the joints with thick oil paint, Phoenix glue, Unicum glue or epoxy glue.
Now nail plywood sheathing 1 to parts 2, 3 and 4. To prevent chips from forming on the edges of the plywood, pre-drill holes along the edges of the sheathing with a Ø 2 mm drill.
The assembled bow and stern parts of the boat are connected so that the bow part is 3-4 cm to the stern. Cover all joints with strips of tin, and before upholstering, coat the surface with thick oil paint. After this, nail the keel strip to the bottom of the boat and the battens along the sides.
Treat the finished boat with hot drying oil inside and out, and after drying, cover the vessel with two layers of oil paint on both sides, carefully sealing all the cracks and grooves.
The bow of the boat can be made of dense construction foam, the sheets of which are glued together with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. After this, cover the bow of the boat with two or three layers of gauze, soaking them with epoxy glue or oil paint on natural drying oil. Attach the finished bow to the bow board with two stud bolts. The stern part is also made from foam plastic.
The boat has double oars, like a kayak. The total length of the oar is 220-240 cm. You can use ready-made dismountable metal or wooden kayak oars, which are commercially available. Such a vessel has a carrying capacity of 100-110 kg.
The second design consists of four sections. Making it is more complicated and can only be done by someone who already has experience working with plywood and wood. For work you will need four sheets of 4mm plywood.

Having cut the plywood into blanks, you must first treat it on both sides with hot drying oil.
The frames use 6mm plywood, folded in three layers. When cutting plywood, keep in mind that all body parts must be cut along the grain of the outer layers of plywood. Don't forget to leave a small allowance for processing the ends.
The cut parts are glued together with carpentry, casein or epoxy glue, oil paint and dried under a load. For greater strength, the frames can be stitched along the edges with small nails, the ends of which are bent on the other side.
In straight sections, duralumin corners are attached to the frames. This increases the rigidity and strength of the structure. To avoid confusion during assembly, mark the workpieces: the first number is the section number, the second is the part number.
The body parts are fastened to the frames with thin 30 mm nails, and the corners with 0 4 mm screws and washers.
Section I at the place where it joins section II has a large width, so the connection is stepped. This is done so that the sections can fit into one another during transportation. The sections are placed in the package in the following order: I - II - III - IV; and sections II and IV are turned over.
To better seal the joints of the sections, a rubber tube is used, which is laid next to the bolts on both sides.
The keel rack is made of parts with bevels in the direction of movement of the vessel. Before fastening, the slats are pre-treated with hot drying oil and aged for 5 days.
Once all sections are ready, paint them with two thin coats of oil paint. Apply the second coat after the first has completely dried. Seal seams carefully.
During assembly, sections are connected with fastening bolts. Drill holes for them, fastening the sections together with clamps or securing them with two or three nails.
If you have a lot of epoxy glue, the bottom of the boat can be covered with a layer of fiberglass, adding 10-15 percent acetone to the glue as a thinner. The edges of the glass weaving are folded into the vessel and secured there. In this option, covering with fiberglass should be done after treatment with drying oil, and painting - after covering.
The rear seat rests on frame 6, and the front seat on frame 4. The seat backs can be made movable by securing them with clamps on aluminum tubes Ø 30 mm. The tubes, in turn, are secured with clamps on the upper bolts of the frames when assembling the sections.
When preparing for a boat trip, be sure to provide life-saving equipment in the boat: volleyball tubes tied together, life jackets, jackets with foam liners.
Plywood boats, made up of parts that are nested inside one another during transportation, like nesting dolls, are lightweight and easy to transport. This boat can be transported on a bus or train.

L. Afrin
Supplement to UT No. 5 1986

Many didn’t even realize that you could sail in a homemade plywood boat. The article will provide a step-by-step description of all processes for its manufacture, drawings and lists of everything needed from materials to tools. The instructions also include illustrations of the work and a video of the construction being made by a craftsman.

Preparation of material and tools

• Plywood;
• Polyurethane glue;
• Nails;
• Latex based paint;
• Silicone sealant;
• Construction syringe (it will be needed to seal the seams of the structure);
• Sandpaper;
• Jigsaw;
• Screwdriver;
• Roulette;
• Brush;
• Clamp;
• Drill;
• Paracord (staples).

One of the sheets of purchased plywood needs to be divided into 3 parts for the bottom of the structure: 46x61 cm, 61x168 cm and 31x61 cm. The sides of the boat will consist of two pieces measuring 31 by 244 cm. To create supports, take 3 pieces with parameters 25x50x2400 mm. A cut measuring 25x76x2400 mm is required for the stern and bow of the boat. The hull of a homemade plywood boat for fishing is made from pieces with dimensions of 25x50x2400 mm.

Note! Subsequently, the pieces will be connected to the body with paracord.

Creating a project with drawings

There are many designs for homemade plywood boats, ranging from a simple punt used for fishing to a complex tourist kayak. There are both prefabricated and folding structures. To begin with, let's look at the simplest drawing of the vessel, which is presented below.

If you are not satisfied with a homemade plywood boat according to the drawings that you found, then you can design your own version, but such an undertaking will require more accurate calculations regarding the load-carrying capacity of the structure. Otherwise, if the parameters are incorrect, you can make a huge souvenir that will not be able to keep you on the water.

So, having chosen or created our own project for building a plywood boat, we transfer our parameters to paper, creating a design drawing. Using these paper templates, we draw the contours of the main elements of the boat on plywood sheets, which will serve as a guide for cutting out sheets and frames for sheathing.

Note! In most cases, the size of the factory plywood does not allow cutting a solid element of the boat side. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out the procedure of merging the sheets.

The joining of pieces begins by cutting off the ends of the sheet at an acute angle. As a result, the hewn part should have a length equal to the thickness of the sheet, increased by 7-10 times. The connected parts with the ends cut off are perfectly shown in the diagram below.

Ideally beveled pieces must be coated with glue along the bevel and firmly clamped with clamps using the “mustache” method. While our pieces are being glued together, we can prepare the beams for the boat frame. It will be more convenient to work on trestles specially created with your own hands from 5x5 cm beams.

You can also make a homemade folding boat from plywood, the drawing of which is presented below.

Assembling the hull of a simple boat

First of all, we will make the frames (although you can make them after assembling the plywood frame). Having drawn out and cut out the necessary beams, we fasten them using self-tapping screws and epoxy glue.

Frames

Note! At the stage of cutting out the elements, deviations from the drawing parameters should not be more than 1 mm, otherwise the sides may not be sewn together.

The assembly of a homemade plywood boat is shown in detail in the video, which is added to the article.

First of all, we install a transom on our sawhorses, to which we attach the bottom and sides, moving them slightly towards the middle, connecting them at the bow with brackets. If the thickness of the plywood sheet is small, the sheathing can be joined with suture material or an adhesive mixture. When assembling, carefully ensure that all elements match in size.

Gluing the frames and side is necessary to ensure greater thickness and, accordingly, increase the strength of the structure. Also, in order to increase the reliability of the connections, it is recommended to additionally fasten the transoms and frames with tinned or galvanized self-tapping screws 18 or 25 mm long and 3 mm in diameter. Self-tapping screws for the stern and sides are taken a little larger: 60 by 4-5 mm.

Adviсe! If there is a gap when connecting the elements, it is necessary to disassemble everything and cut the frames to the required size. And for a homemade plywood boat for a motor, you need to remember to glue the transom with fiberglass, and also fasten it with wooden boards made of hardwood.

You can also cut special linings onto the transom to strengthen the structure as a whole. When all the elements are assembled and fit together, you can begin gluing the structure. To make the seams especially neat, you can use masking tape that is glued to both sides of each seam.

We glue it with a mixture of aerosil and epoxy resin (1:1), carefully working with fiberglass so that the result is no bubbles. The sizing seams must come out even, and it is also necessary that the wood structure is still visible through the layers of fiberglass.

Then we turn the almost finished boat upside down and remove the staples in case they fasten the elements, and also round the seam joints. Having obtained the desired streamlining, you can glue the seams on the outside.

In addition to gluing, the structure can be reinforced with 3 layers of glass tape or completely covered with fiberglass. You can also add benches to the design, for which we make planks, also cut out the stem and install a bow eye bolt. The outer stringers and keel will need high quality materials to avoid knots. The polished elements will strengthen the structure and also serve as protection for the plating during mooring.

Basics of making a folding structure

You can also make a homemade collapsible boat from plywood according to the above drawing. Such a boat will consist of several independent sections, which in turn represent a part of the structure, the length of which is equal to the distance between the frames that are located next to each other. In other words, the boat is “cut” into pieces.

The sections are assembled using bolts, and to ensure a tight fit of the parts to each other, a rubber seal is laid between the sections. Once assembled, all the rest are placed in the largest middle section with a matryoshka doll. And then all the elements can be packed in a fabric case and easily transported by car or other transport.

To make a collapsible structure you will need the following: materials:

• Plywood: 2.5 sheets for sheathing - construction 4x1500x1500 mm, part of 1 sheet for the stem and frames - 10x900x1300;
• Boards for removable seats.

It is necessary to purchase plywood of the 1st grade so that there are no knots, but there is a hitch! Boards 6 m long - take one from coniferous 2 cm thick, and the other from any wood 4 cm thick. We also need meter-long beech boards to finish the side of our boat.

First of all, we also create a design drawing, after which we make paper templates for the transom, frames and stem. In the frames cut with a hacksaw according to the templates, you need to drill the corresponding holes for the bolts, after which we connect the sheets. The frames must be filed and covered on the outside with a 1 mm thick rubber seal.

You also need to make holes in the frames for rivets, which will be located every 1-5 cm in pairs, screwing in 1 cm from the edge. They can be built independently from wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 3 mm from aluminum wire. The sections are assembled using a conductor.

When all the elements are made and assembled, the entire structure must be impregnated with drying oil, even two layers are recommended. But always on top of dry plywood. When the drying oil dries, the inner part needs to be opened with varnish, and the outer part with oil paint.

Summer and water always provoke the purchase of a boat. Inflatable boats are not as easy to use as rigid ones, but the rigid design complicates transportation.

The most compromise solution is to make a sectional folding boat with your own hands.

How to build a homemade folding boat from plywood

A plywood folding boat, which has a rigid structure, consists of several sections, presented as elements of a water vehicle. Their dimensions correspond to the distance between the frames (2 pieces), located in close proximity, and it seems that the vehicle on water is divided into parts along the center of the transverse stiffeners. These sections are then connected into a single structure with wing bolts and sealed with rubber.

If all the sections are disassembled, then their structures are planned in such a way that the largest, and this is the middle section, will sequentially include all the others. As a result, the vehicle on water will be folded like a suitcase with overall dimensions of 850 mm by 700 mm by 330 mm, which can easily be placed in a fabric cover and transported to its destination.

To make a boat, you need to prepare two and a half sheets of four-millimeter plywood for construction 1.5 by 1.5 meters and a piece of a sheet of 10-millimeter plywood 1.3 by 0.9 meters. The material must be of high quality, smooth, preferably first grade. You will also need two boards of six meters each: 20 mm thick from pine or spruce and 40 mm thick from any other wood. If building material of this size is suddenly not available, shorter boards will do. But it is advisable to finish the side with beech or other hard wood. A meter long cut is enough for this.

Every assembly of parts begins with a drawing. It is necessary to reproduce on paper or, best of all, on graph paper the natural dimensions of the frame, stem and transom. When drawing, the arrangement of the parts should ensure their maximum fit with each other. Glue the plaza onto 10mm construction plywood, which is folded in half. The next technical steps involve drilling holes in the frames. The fasteners to the frames are very tight. Paired frames (2 pcs.), stem and transom are cut out using a hacksaw.

A tight fit of the sheet when cutting out frames I, II, V and the transom is ensured due to the small angle from the outside. Process the frames with a hacksaw and cover the outside with millimeter-thick rubber using glue. Divide the seal into 20 mm strips and treat the paired frames (2 pieces) with technical glue, and then cut them.

The next operation for fastening plywood is processing three-millimeter holes for aluminum rivets on the outside of the frames, which are installed at a length of 10 - 15 mm in pairs, maintaining the condition: 10 mm to the edge of the frame and 800 mm between pairs. After removing the bolts, disconnect the frames from each other. They are considered ready only when the rivets are placed in the holes.

It is impossible to assemble the sections without a conductor (look at the picture), which allows you to install the frames and cover them with plywood. The mechanism is made of 40 mm board and has the following components:

The base is a frame of four boards;
a fixed stand with a bracket fixed with nails, a transverse board with a frame;
a movable stand with a moving board between the longitudinal base sheets; a bracket mounted on it; and a cross board on it.

Your next task is to strengthen the frames. This is done using bolts that pass through the holes and connect the brackets to the boards in the transverse direction. All protrusions of the bracket and overhanging boards should be leveled at the level of the frames. It is important to do this so that during subsequent plywood sheathing they do not interfere.

Your next steps for making a collapsible watercraft. Divide four-millimeter plywood in half and cover the frames in the jig with them. Bend the sheets from the outside along the frames according to the direction of the moving boat and lightly secure it on the conductor. Excess sheets on the outside of the frames will interfere, so they must be removed. Treatment with K-88 brand glue does not take long; it must be applied to the frames under the plywood and to its edges above the frames. A small sheet of aluminum 0.5 * 16 mm will strengthen the borders of the plywood. It turns out that it will contact the sheet only at a width of 10 mm, and hang down at six.

Subsequent actions boil down to drilling holes with a diameter of 2.5 - 3 mm in the frame between the rivets, grabbing plywood and an aluminum strip into which twenty-millimeter screws will go. The assembly condition is that the presence of an anti-corrosion coating on the bolts with nuts and screws with which the sections must be fastened is mandatory. Your next step is to screw in the screws on top in two directions at once. Attach plywood to the frames, wrap the aluminum strip down, pressing it tightly against the stiffening ribs of the vessel. Then remove the section from the jig and align its ends so that from one frame to the other the length of the plywood is ten millimeters shorter. Cut off the remainder. This requirement is established so that the fastening of the side strips is reliable.

In prepared planks of beech, pine or other hard wood with a cross-section of 25*15 mm, determine one fourth part, which is attached to the plywood and glued. Wrap the remaining part of the aluminum strip around the planks, covering the inside of the frame with nails. Attach the edges of the planks to the frames with screws 40 mm long. Provide sealant between the bead strip and the plywood sheet. You can increase the rigidity of the docking of the side of the boat by exceeding the length of the bar by three millimeters relative to the section.

Seal with micropores or other soft rubber is placed on the glue on one side of the section along the entire width. A rubber tube is also suitable, the holes in which should be sealed on both sides in advance, but the air remaining there will provide increased joint density. The section can be considered ready for use when holes are drilled in the rubber opposite the similar ones in the frame.

According to this scheme, carry out work in relation to other sections. The exception is the nasal. For Part I, you will need two pieces of sheet on two sides - left and right, pre-cut to a standard shape. Now your task is simplified - remove the moving stand from the conductor, and lay frame I on the stationary one.

Transport on the water and, basically, ready for sailing, remains:

Install the stem onto the base;
cover the top with thick paper;
press tightly to the stem, as well as to the frame, and trim the protruding edges according to the template.

Proceed to cutting the sheet into shape. Sheathing the “bow” compartment will be the finale in the difficult process of making a folding boat. The operation is performed first on the right, then on the left. Strengthen the edges of the plywood sheet with an aluminum strip.

In this not too labor-intensive way, you can make a folding boat, which you can then take with you everywhere: to the lake, river or sea.

A homemade folding boat can be transported on a small trailer or on the trunk of a car.

More about homemade boats.

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