Soundproofing an apartment: long-awaited silence with your own hands. Soundproofing an apartment with your own hands. What needs to be isolated and how? How to soundproof walls between rooms

Unfortunately, modern apartments differ low level soundproofing. This is why the private lives of individuals become public knowledge. Loud music, quarrels and screams, construction work, even footsteps in the corridor and elevator movements - all these sounds can burst into your life and deprive you of the opportunity to relax and unwind.

You can get rid of this using additional sound insulation of walls. It is worth noting that it has two functions: soundproofing and sound-absorbing. The first will help you protect yourself from outside world and noisy neighbors, and the second will keep everything that happens in your apartment within the confines of your apartment, so you can safely watch a movie or football after 11 pm.

This effect can be achieved using various materials. Advances in technology have meant that you no longer need to sacrifice valuable square meters and downsize the apartment to improve sound insulation. And you don't need carpets on all the walls either. So how can you isolate yourself from a noisy world?

Ways to soundproof an apartment

If we are talking about sound insulation, then we must take into account the purpose of the room. The kitchen, bathroom and even living room can “make do” with partial insulation. But the bedroom and children's room are rooms of increased importance; here you need to achieve complete peace and quiet.

Experts have long noticed that sound is dampened in multilayer structures. But they have a clear disadvantage - a reduction in the usable area of ​​the room. The thicker the partitions, the less noise penetrates into and out of the room, but also the more space this structure occupies.

The main ways to achieve silence in an apartment are: using drywall, finishing with plaster and using special soundproofing boards. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Of course, it is up to the homeowners to decide. Professionals recommend combining these methods, using them in different rooms depending on the desired level of sound insulation.

Soundproofing with drywall

One of the most popular and fairly simple methods is sound insulation using drywall. It itself, of course, is not an insulating material. This is why you will need fiberglass or mineral wool. When choosing a material, give preference to soft and semi-soft options, as they have more high level sound absorption.

First you need to carefully inspect the walls for damage. All cracks, chips and discrepancies must be carefully covered. You can use special sealants, or you can get by with regular cement mortar.

After this, you can build a frame for the future plasterboard wall. Experts recommend using a metal profile with a vibration-isolating lining, but you can make a frame from ordinary wooden beams. Don't forget to step back 1.5-2 centimeters from the wall itself to create air cushion, which will also have a positive effect on the level of sound insulation. After installing the frame, proceed to laying the special insulating material. Make sure that the thickness of this inner layer leaves enough room for an air cushion.

Your “filling” is ready, you just need to hide it behind a layer of drywall. The sheets are screwed to the frame using self-tapping screws. Joints between plasterboard sheets need to be sealed with a special mesh and plastered. After this, the wall is ready for painting or wallpapering.

This method has one important drawback - installing drywall takes up at least eight centimeters of area on each side.

Soundproofing with soundproofing boards

Modern Construction Materials allow you to significantly reduce the amount of work to achieve maximum results. Technologies in the field of sound absorption also do not stand still. Special slabs, which can be purchased in specialized stores, guarantee a high level of sound insulation with a minimum of effort.

The advantages of this material include its lightness, compactness and ease of use. With the help of such panels, even one person who is not a professional builder can make noise insulation in an apartment. The slabs can be cut to fit the features of the room, which also facilitates installation.

Another “plus” is additional thermal insulation. Since this material consists of wood chips or stone wool, then the fibers also retain heat inside the apartment, which is especially important for houses with low thermal insulation.

The slabs are attached to the wall directly, without any additional frames. Special dowels guarantee the strength of the structure. The joints between the panels are covered with putty, which helps create a perfect smooth wall. Prices for Izoplat panels in this moment much lower than they used to be as the technology becomes more popular.

Soundproofing with plaster

This method cannot be called effective, since the level of sound absorption of this material is much lower than all previous ones. However, plastering takes the least usable space and is used not only as a rough preparation of the wall, but also as a finishing finish. In order to achieve the desired effect, you need to apply several layers of this material.

This method is ideal for residents panel houses, since sounds travel through chips and cracks, concrete pores. Plaster can completely rid you of these shortcomings of the apartment. Carefully inspect the walls and ceilings for defects. They need to be sealed separately. Professionals recommend giving preference to sealants if serious breaks and cracks are detected. After this a layer is applied ordinary plaster. It should be smooth. Let it dry and carefully inspect the wall again. Darkening, cracks and stains should make you suspicious. These places need to be carefully treated. After this, you can use both wallpaper and finishing plaster.

Almost any resident of an apartment building from time to time or constantly experiences inconvenience associated with the penetration of extraneous noise into the apartment. These are screams or loud conversations from neighbors, the sound of a loud TV or music center. Very often, shock types of noise also bother us, such as: stomping feet, hammer blows, vibrations of a hammer drill during repairs in neighbors’ apartments, etc.

The silence in your apartment can also be disturbed by the sounds of a busy street or a not-so-quiet courtyard outside the windows.

In all these cases, sound insulation will help prevent noise from penetrating (or at least reduce its intensity) into your apartment.

Determining the sources of noise

To understand how to make soundproofing in an apartment so that it brings the desired result, you first need to decide: to carry out complete soundproofing of the home or only partial. For example, you are disturbed by the stomping of the neighbor's children from above, but other sources of noise are not heard or do not bother you. Then, of course, you can limit yourself to soundproofing the ceiling.

Most often, additional insulation from extraneous sounds is done only in that part of the home where it is most needed. But you can also completely soundproof your apartment from neighbors and other sources of unwanted sounds. In this case, you will need to soundproof the walls, floor, ceiling, windows and front door.

If the front door does not cope sufficiently with the function of protecting the apartment from noise from the staircase, then it can be upgraded with the help of additional soundproofing cladding; and also eliminate any cracks and gaps between the door and the frame using special seals. But the most reliable option- organization of a vestibule with the installation of an additional internal door.

The issue of soundproofing windows is solved by installing high-quality double-glazed windows. Depending on the intensity of noise from the street, you can order windows with additional levels of sound insulation ( large quantity chambers, increased thickness of double-glazed windows, etc.).

Soundproofing walls - what materials to use

Soundproofing the walls in an apartment must begin with a thorough inspection of their surface. If there are cracks or gaps in the joints, they must be eliminated. You may need to pull out the outlets and check if there are any voids behind them that would conduct sound well from neighbors. If there is a void, it can be filled with high-density mineral wool, then the hole can be sealed with putty or cement mortar. And only after that insert your socket into place.

The material for soundproofing the walls in an apartment, as well as installation methods, are selected based on cost, the effectiveness of noise insulation and the amount of “consumed” space.

The least expensive option in terms of money, effort and wasted space, but also the least effective option is sound insulation in rolls. Depending on its thickness and structure, it will protect your room from noise to a greater or lesser extent, but will not eliminate it completely.

If you choose this method, then you will be quite capable of soundproofing the apartment with your own hands, since the soundproofing material in rolls is glued easily and simply vinyl glue directly on the walls.

Another option is soundproofing decorative panels, which are installed on the sheathing (if the walls are not perfectly smooth) using “ liquid nails».

And finally, the most labor-intensive and expensive option in terms of wasted space is the frame method of soundproofing walls.

To soundproof a wall in this way, you will need: drywall, a profile (or wooden slats), hardware for fastening, screws, and sound-absorbing material.

The profile must be secured by stepping back from the wall a few centimeters and placing vibration-isolating material under it. The constructed frame is filled with high-quality soundproofing material, for example, mineral wool. Then the drywall is screwed in, all seams and joints are well sealed.

The cost of soundproofing an apartment if this method is used is, of course, higher, but the result will be much more pleasing.

Let's consider enhanced sound insulation walls with MaxForte materials:

MaxForte SoundPro

Roll material, completely non-flammable. With a small thickness of 12 mm, it effectively combats airborne and impact noise. Which makes it indispensable in small apartments where it is necessary to save space. Does not contain glue or other chemicals.

MaxForte EcoPlate 60

Slabs made of 100% basalt. Contains no phenol-formaldehyde resins.

The use of two different materials is necessary to obtain maximum sound absorption, especially at low frequencies.

You can see more clearly about the installation of MaxForte Soundproofing in the video from the manufacturer:

Soundproofing the ceiling - saving yourself from the stomping of neighbors

Soundproofing the ceiling in an apartment is often the only way to escape the annoying sound of neighbors tramping from the top floor.

To organize such sound insulation, you will need to partially sacrifice the height of your room, since the most effective and common method in this case is the construction of a suspended ceiling.

After installing the frame, its cavity is filled with a special noise-absorbing material (polyurethane foam blocks, basalt wool, reed blocks, cork, coconut fibers, etc.). Then the structure is hemmed with plasterboard.

Soundproofing the floor in an apartment is most easily done if you have wooden floors, installed on logs. In this case, simply fill the space between the joists with the selected material with soundproofing properties and install it on top of the board.

In other cases, the most effective option is to create "floating floors". The advantage of such a floor is that with this technology the screed is not connected to the walls and floor slabs, but is separated from them by a soundproofing substrate, which becomes a barrier to impact noise. Sound waves thanks to this principle, they are cut off and not transferred to walls and foundations.

Modern soundproofing of an apartment, carried out by you (on your own or with the help of specialists), taking into account the characteristics of the acoustics of the premises, the level and nature of external sound stimuli, as well as in compliance with the necessary technologies, will help level out unwanted noise to an almost imperceptible level for the human ear. The natural result of all your efforts will be the much-desired peace and quiet in your apartment.

Every person, regardless of his type of activity, needs regular rest. For many people, the main vacation spot is an apartment, which, unfortunately, is not always able to provide a suitable level of comfort. The reason is simple - in most apartments, the insulation of extraneous sounds is at such a level that there is no question of any rest. Repairs, a party or a child crying - the sounds are heard so clearly, as if they were heard not from your neighbors, but from your own apartment. In such situations, additional sound insulation of the apartment, especially the ceiling and walls, usually saves the day.

Soundproofing in an apartment should be carried out comprehensively, if you ignore at least one small area, extraneous sounds They can easily get into your home through it.

Where to begin

Any serious work always begins with careful planning. First, you need to decide on the available budget that you are willing to allocate for soundproofing measures. After this, you need to decide what exactly you will work on: the entire room or its individual elements (for example, the ceiling and walls).

Soundproofing the floor

It is best to start soundproofing a room from the floor. First, try to find all the holes and cracks that need to be carefully caulked. They are not difficult to find - they are usually located at the joints of the plates. Fill cracks with soft sound insulating material(For example, mineral wool).

Next comes the installation of timber logs on the floor, the cells of which correspond to the size of the mineral wool slabs. A technical cork gasket is placed under the logs, and mineral wool slabs about 45-50 mm thick are placed in the resulting mesh.

Floor soundproofing diagram

Then they lay on the created coating chipboards and screw them using self-tapping screws to the joists. This is followed by either laying carpet or pouring a concrete screed (do not forget about impregnating the beams with special protective compounds). At this point, the process of soundproofing the floor can be considered almost complete. The gap between the walls and joists is carefully filled with mineral wool and should not be more than 20 mm, otherwise extraneous sounds will be able to penetrate through these holes into your home.

Soundproofing walls in an apartment

The process of soundproofing walls is somewhat similar to soundproofing a floor, but there are still some differences. First of all, you need to get rid of all the defects and irregularities that are present on the work surface. In addition, sockets, cracks, gaps between pipes and ceilings require careful insulation. To work with pipes, you can use an elastic sealant.

Scheme of soundproofing walls using plasterboard and using a Knauf vibration profile

After completing this stage, you can begin the main work. To begin with, a frame made of wooden or metal profiles, to which plasterboard slabs will later be attached. Mineral wool is laid between the plasterboard and the main surface, and a thin layer of soundproofing material is laid under the profiles.

Soundproofing the ceiling in an apartment

High-quality soundproofing of an apartment is not complete without work on the ceiling. Many people believe that in such cases it is best to use a suspended ceiling, but in reality a tension structure will give better results. In this case, fiberglass or mineral wool slabs should be attached to the main ceiling, which will further enhance the effect. On my own suspended ceiling capable of absorbing up to 38 dB.

Ceiling soundproofing diagram

Naturally, in addition to mineral wool, you can use any other sound-absorbing materials, which today are extremely diverse.

1. Isoplat. Material produced in the form of slabs from tree fibers coniferous species. No adhesive or chemical additives are used in its production.
2. Izolon. It is foamed cross-linked polyethylene, that is, the molecules form a single lattice. As a rule, it is produced in the form of rolls, which are used as a backing for wallpaper.
3. Isotex (softboard). The basis of this material is slabs made of soft fiberboard. Classified as environmentally friendly pure materials, since in its production only components of natural origin are used. It perfectly absorbs any noise, which allows it to become an excellent material for almost all soundproofing work.
4. Ecowool. The composition of this sound insulator includes about 80% cellulose (waste paper and special additives that improve the quality of the material). Ecowool is not afraid of rodents and fungi, so it is ideal for insulating walls and ceilings.
5. Penotherm. In the manufacture of this material, foamed polypropylene is used, the quality of which is improved through the use of special additives. It has excellent impact sound insulation properties, making it excellent for floor sound insulation.

Read also

What to do if the house is hot

The main mistakes when soundproofing an apartment

Unfortunately, no one is immune from mistakes, and during soundproofing work people can sometimes make very annoying mistakes that nullify all efforts.

Electrical sockets

One of the most likely sources of noise from neighbors entering your apartment may be a regular socket, the installation of which was on the inter-apartment wall. The reason is that some reinforced concrete wall slabs, even at the time of production, included through holes where electrical accessories would be installed.

In such cases, builders simply need to install sockets in two adjacent apartments, while leaving a through channel, which will be the source of extraneous noise.

Here it is recommended to dismantle the electrical outlet and installation box (observing all safety rules, of course). It is likely that during the process you will see the bottom of the wiring box of another outlet. A layer of mineral wool, basalt cardboard or asbestos fabric must be placed in the hole. After this, the hole is carefully sealed with cement mortar or gypsum putty (remember to leave room for the subsequent installation of your electrical outlet). When carrying out this work, it is advisable to seek the help of a professional electrician.

Remember that it is highly not recommended to use polyurethane foam without further plastering, since this flammable material is not a sound insulator.

Electrical installation boxes

Mounting boxes that are designed to connect electrical cables, in most cases, are located in the central part of the inter-apartment walls under the ceiling. Usually they are hidden under the wallpaper, so they can only be found by “tapping”. In addition, installation boxes are often placed in through holes in the walls, covered with thin plastic covers.

Soundproofing mounting boxes carried out using the same technology as electrical outlets. At the same time, the help of a specialist electrician in this case will be a prerequisite, since it is highly not recommended to carry out this work on your own.

Heating and water supply system risers

In accordance with building codes, risers of water supply pipelines should be laid through using vibration-insulated sleeves. To do this, you need to install in the ceiling metal pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of the riser. The gap between the pipes is filled with non-flammable sound-absorbing material, additionally sealed with a non-hardening sealant.

But in reality, these works are sometimes not carried out - the use of mineral wool or sleeves is simply forgotten. As a result, after several years of operation, gaps form between the floor slab and the riser pipe, which are sources of not only extraneous noise, but also unpleasant odors.

To solve this problem, two methods can be used. If the riser passes through the coating in the sleeve, then you need to carefully seal the gap between the riser and the sleeve using heat-resistant silicone sealant. If the riser passes directly through the ceiling, then next to the pipe the damaged layer of cement mortar should be thoroughly cleaned and removed to the maximum depth, preventing it from entering someone else’s apartment.

After this, the base of the pipe is wrapped soundproofing material and cement the damaged area. Excess sound insulation is removed, after which the joint is sealed with silicone sealant.

Joints between the floor and walls

In those areas where the flooring is adjacent to the walls, the formation of deep cracks, as a rule, is not uncommon. The main reason is poorly executed joints and low-quality floor leveling screed. Cracks that appear after a certain period of use become an excellent conductor of sounds from neighboring apartments.

To fix the problem, first of all it is necessary to dismantle all the baseboards around the perimeter of the room. If you can, then use a hammer and chisel to make a seam in the floor (along all walls), the width of which is about 30 mm over the entire depth of the screed. Then this seam must be filled with a cement-sand mixture. As soon as the cement mortar has dried, the joints are treated with non-hardening silicone sealant.

In case if partial dismantling screeds are not possible, for example, due to the presence of parquet, expansion joint filled with silicone sealant. After this, you need to attach the skirting boards in place.

Joints between wall-to-wall and wall-to-ceiling slabs

In most cases, long-term operation is accompanied by the formation of deformation cracks located between the floors and reinforced concrete slabs. Basically, these cracks are located under the wallpaper, so it is not always possible to notice them in time and determine the source of extraneous noise in the apartment.

First you need to remove the old wallpaper and embroider the joints between concrete panels. The resulting voids are filled with cement mixture or gypsum putty. When the putty dries, all joints are thoroughly coated. acrylic sealant. Excess sealant is removed, and the room is covered with new wallpaper.

Window

Windows can be a source of penetration into your home not only of traffic noise, but also of the sounds of a music system from a neighboring apartment. Replacing old wooden windows with modern ones will help eliminate this problem. window designs made of metal-plastic. However, it should be noted that certain noise from indoor sources may become more obvious, which occurs as a result of the lack of masking of these sounds by street noise.

Modern plastic windows quite reliably solve the problem of the penetration of extraneous noise from the street into the apartment

In this case, it is necessary to carry out the following steps:

• Replacing existing 4 mm glass with thicker models, for example, 5 or 6 mm, will help increase the quality of sound insulation of an old window.
• Before starting the installation of new glass, the window sash mounting points along the entire perimeter should be thoroughly coated with transparent silicone sealant. Then the glass is pressed tightly into the silicone “roller” formed in the sash. After this, the beads are installed and excess silicone is removed.
• Along the contour of the ledge in each window sash, a rubber seal is attached, which has a cross-section in the shape of the letter “D”. If as a result of this the window becomes harder to open, you need to seek help from a carpenter.

Leveling is not recommended window slopes using sheets of plasterboard, since resonance phenomena formed in air cavities can cause a decrease in the sound insulation of the window. In these cases, it is best to use cement-sand plaster, which is ideal for finishing slopes.

Entrance doors

Increased sound insulation of the front door, unfortunately, cannot always be a reliable guarantee of reducing noise that occurs as a result of the operation of an elevator winch or cabin (since these sounds are distributed through building structures). But, with it, you can easily get rid of many everyday noises, for example, the clicking of heels on the stairs or the noise of closing elevator doors.

To get rid of this problem, entry group The apartment should be equipped in the form of a vestibule. Inner door can be made decorative, but the external one must be equipped with anti-burglary qualities.

Soundproofing diagram of the entrance door

To ensure higher sound insulation, it is necessary to completely eliminate the various cracks and holes that are located in the areas where the door leaf adjoins the frame when the door is closed. To do this, it is necessary that the door frames must have a threshold, as well as a sealing gasket along the entire rebate, for which it is best to use profile rubber seals.

In most cases installation gap between the doorway and door frame filled with polyurethane foam, which in no way prevents extraneous noise from entering the apartment. In such situations, complete removal of the mounting foam is required, followed by filling all voids with a cement mixture. After the cement mortar has dried, the areas where the door frame adjoins the wall structure are carefully treated using silicone sealant, which will further avoid the formation of deformation cracks.

Soundproofing problems are more perplexing for residents apartment buildings. One of the neighbors is playing musical instrument, someone is in the midst of a renovation, the patter of little feet can be heard from the ceiling - “and such rubbish - all day long,” and sometimes you just want to relax in complete silence. And it happens the other way around, you want a noisy party, but at the same time there is no desire to spoil relations with your neighbors.

As a rule, new houses do not have good sound insulation: voids in the walls, openings of sockets and switches, heating and water pipes, as well as the structural elements themselves perfectly convey any sounds. Therefore, soundproofing in an apartment is the work of the residents themselves.

Soundproofing of walls and partitions

The main conductor of extraneous noise in any room are walls and partitions. Walls bordering the street do not need to be further insulated. You can get rid of noise coming from outside simply by installing double-glazed windows on your windows. If this is not possible, then you can replace the glass with thicker glass or ensure a tighter connection to the frame. To do this, just apply silicone sealant around the perimeter of the glass.

And here interior walls and the partitions are not particularly thick and convey excellent sound vibrations any frequency from the next room. The easiest way to reduce the level of noise penetration into a room through walls is to soundproof sockets, mounting boxes and joints, which we will discuss below.

To soundproof very thin walls and partitions, it is better to use a multilayer structure, characterized by alternating layers various densities. This method is expensive and gives good results only when using high-quality materials. The most effective for this purpose are glass fiber, basalt, spatula or silica fiber, as well as already ready-made sandwich panels. The soft layers are covered with plasterboard panels.

When deciding on multi-layer sound insulation, keep in mind that the area of ​​the room will be significantly reduced. Each lined wall reduces linear dimensions rooms more than 15 cm.

Multilayer sound insulation technology for walls:

1. A wooden or metal frame is erected to secure the soft insulating material. Metal, of course, will be stronger, but it will somewhat reduce the soundproofing properties, so it is still preferable to use wood. During the construction of the frame, rubber or polyurethane gaskets must be placed under all its areas in contact with the wall.
2. The empty space created by the frame is filled soundproofing material.
3. The resulting structure is lined with sheets of plasterboard or any other selected panels. After this, the joints are taped with masking tape and puttied. Next, another layer of solid insulator is applied, but the seams overlap the previous one.
4. The second layer is puttied and now you can safely paint or wallpaper it.

As an example, we present to your attention a video that demonstrates the process of soundproofing a room using ISOVER material.

Soundproofing of sockets and junction boxes

During construction, through holes are made for sockets and mounting boxes, allowing you to simultaneously install electrical equipment and fittings in two rooms at once. Therefore, they serve as excellent conductors of noise from the neighboring room.

Before proceeding with insulation, it is necessary to de-energize them. After this, we completely remove all the electrics from the hole, and place a plug inside, cut from any sound-absorbing material, such as basalt fiber, and carefully cement it.

Mounting boxes are insulated in exactly the same way, only they differ in the presence of a plastic plug that must be pulled out. By the way, if you don’t know, you can find the location of these boxes by knocking on the wall.

Soundproofing of joints

If the house is a panel house, then as a result of natural settlement of the building, deformations structural elements and poor-quality work of builders, cracks form at the joints of adjacent walls, as well as walls and ceilings or floors, which also transmit sound very well. It's easy to get rid of them. It is necessary to widen all cracks using a screwdriver or any other sharp tool to 30-40 mm, thoroughly clean their cavity, completely prime it and cover it with a layer of putty. After complete drying, the joints should be covered with sealant, preferably acrylic.

If there is already a floor covering on the floor, then you don’t have to disassemble it. For good insulation, it is enough to fill the gap between the wall and the flooring with silicone and cover it with a plinth. Typically, this helps to significantly reduce the level of vibration transmitted through the floor.

Soundproofing entrance doors

A large number of sounds enter the apartment from behind the front door. Conversations of neighbors, slamming doors, sounds of the elevator, steps on the stairs - you can also get rid of them. The main requirement for entrance doors that provide a high level of soundproofing is the absence of cracks. Therefore, it is enough to attach rubber seals in the places where the door leaf comes into contact with the jamb and equip the door frame with at least a small threshold. If there are gaps between the frame and the doorway, they must be filled with cement mortar.

A good soundproofing effect is achieved by using two doors, the second one can be a thin decorative partition. The main thing here is the resulting small vestibule that dampens vibrations.

Soundproofing the floor

Soundproofing of the floor should be taken care of even before laying the flooring. Otherwise, it will need to be disassembled. To isolate the floor from the penetration of extraneous noise and to protect neighbors living below from sounds penetrating from your apartment, you need to place special insulating material under the floor covering or, even better, under the floor screed. Such soundproofing materials are a thin layer of fiberglass, polymer or other substance with high ductility and elasticity. Such insulation must be laid so that its edges touch the walls, in this case sound vibrations will not propagate further than the floor surface.

Ceiling soundproofing

The best way to isolate a room from the penetration of extraneous noise from the ceiling is the installation of suspended or suspended ceilings. It is better to entrust such work to real professionals. It is almost impossible to stretch the fabric on your own without wrinkles and distortions. Especially if you have never done this work before.

If funds do not allow you to invite specialists, then you can try to insulate the ceiling using a multi-layer structure. The technology for this work is not very complicated and is accessible even to a novice repairman:

1. The ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of all coating.
2. A special acoustic material, usually felt, is glued to the entire surface. To prevent lag, it must be attached with mushroom dowels.
3. Profile hangers are attached at a distance of 60 cm from each other, and a profile for plasterboard is attached to them.
4. Plates of soundproofing material are laid on the protrusions, leaving a small air layer between them and the acoustic pad. Usually 50-100 mm is enough.
5. The entire structure is covered with plasterboard.

Having decided to independently isolate the apartment from noise penetration, keep in mind that for good result important to use quality materials with high sound insulation properties. All costs for them are quickly compensated by the peace of mind of your family and good relationships with neighbors.

Many people after a busy working day They crave rest and peace, which they dream of finding in their cozy apartment. But often extraneous noise coming from neighbors or household members does not provide the opportunity to rest and relax.

What to do if you don’t want to know about the events and problems of your neighbors on the floor, coming through the walls, floor and ceiling of your apartment. Or, what if you yourself want to invite someone to visit you? noisy company, listen in full sound good music, and be completely confident that you will not subsequently find yourself in the center of a huge scandal caused by nervous neighbors about the noise coming from your apartment? Soundproofing your apartment will save you from these problems! This will immediately stop the occurrence of conflicts with neighbors, because every person sometimes wants to listen loudly to their favorite music in the evening, make some noise, play with children who stomp their little feet so loudly that it infuriates unbalanced neighbors. Often you have to give up such desires and regret that you bought an apartment in multi-storey building, not a private house.

In a house with thin walls, which is inherent in panel high-rise buildings, sound insulation is simply necessary, because without it it is simply impossible to achieve peace and quiet.

Sound insulation works in two main directions:

• Soundproofing. Sounds coming from neighboring apartments are reflected and do not reach your ears, so you will hear absolutely nothing of what your neighbors are doing.
• Sound absorption. The sound waves that come from noise in your apartment are absorbed, so your neighbors won't hear you either.

Types of noise

There are several types of noise. Let's take a closer look at them.

1. Air. This noise includes all sounds transmitted through the air. This is shouting, loud speech, laughter, etc. Such sounds enter the house through doors, windows and cracks.
2. Shock. The most annoying noise for most residents of high-rise buildings. This includes the sound of a hammer drill, drill and other construction tools. This noise penetrates through the walls and ceilings of the house. The closer you are to the source of the noise, the louder you will hear it.
3. Structural. This noise comes from vibration. Just like impact, it penetrates walls and its source is also working construction equipment. Sometimes these two noises are combined into one.

The very first obstacle to noise in a high-rise building will be walls and ceilings. And the key to calm nerves of the residents of the house are high-quality sound-absorbing walls.

An important point in good soundproofing of walls is the quality of the material from which they are built. Unfortunately, in our country the quality of wall materials is not always at a high level, so they cannot provide reliable protection of the apartment from extraneous noise. This is especially felt with impact and structural types of noise that occur in the house and have a wide range of impacts. It happens that residents of the first floor hear the noise of repairs coming from the ninth floor of the neighboring entrance. The noise of a car from the garage next to the house can also easily be heard through the walls and windows into the apartment.

Permissible noise standards

The volume of sound is measured in decibels (dB). There are accepted acceptable standards noise in the apartment, which are optimal for perception human body and not harmful - this is 40-45 dB, which corresponds to the noise level from a quiet conversation between two people. But even this norm is valid from 7:00 to 23:00. At night, when relative silence is required, the noise level is 25-30 dB, which can be compared in volume to human whispering, which is 20 dB.

For very noisy enterprises, the permitted noise level is 85 dB, but provided that workers can work no more than 8 hours a day. Scientists have proven that over such a period of time the level of boundary noise does not harm human health. For higher noise levels, special protective equipment. The critical noise level that begins to irritate the ear is 110 dB, and increasing it to 130 dB can even cause discomfort on the skin.

In a high-rise apartment, the decibels coming from neighbors often cause unpleasant emotions and loss of a sense of peace. This pushes apartment owners to surround themselves with sound insulation, protecting the walls, ceiling and floor from noise.

Before soundproofing an apartment with your own hands, you need to determine the noise level, which will help you choose the most suitable one. best option soundproofing specifically for your apartment.

How to soundproof an apartment?

Thick concrete walls and high-quality floor joints are good protection against noise. But in panel houses Unfortunately, such protection is completely absent. Therefore, most residents of panel high-rise buildings think about the question of how to soundproof their apartment. To solve this problem, it is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the ceiling and floor from noise penetration, using sound-absorbing materials for this.

You also need to take into account that noise can enter the apartment in the following ways:

• through sockets and mounting boxes;
• through water supply and heating risers;
• through joints in walls, ceilings and floors;
• through windows and entrance doors.

Let’s take a closer look at how you can soundproof an apartment with your own hands.

Noise control methods depend on the materials used. This can be plasterboard, ceiling panels, mineral wool, rolled materials.

Since extraneous noise often makes a person nervous, makes it difficult to concentrate and can even become a global life problem, soundproofing is a reliable way to restore peace in the home.

First of all, you need to find the source of the noise, and then choose a way to eliminate it.

Often it is enough to soundproof the ceiling and floor, and in rare cases it may be necessary to protect the entire room.

Sound insulation methods and materials used

1. Drywall. Before installing plasterboards, it is necessary to carefully seal all cracks in the walls through which noise can penetrate. Then plaster the walls.
   Installing drywall has some special features. For example, if a source of extraneous noise comes from the wall, you cannot attach a frame to it, since sound will still pass into the apartment through the frame fastening. Therefore, it is recommended to install the frame to the ceiling and floor near the wall from which the noise comes. In addition, when installing the frame, it is recommended to use special rubber gaskets, which will be an additional barrier to noise.
   The gaps between the plates are filled with polyurethane foam. For reliability, a layer or two of mineral wool or gypsum fiber is laid between the plasterboard slabs and the main wall.
2. Ecowool and ZIPS panels. The panels are attached to the surface, providing reliable protection against noise from walls, floors and ceilings. To install them, you need to make additional holes. In combination with ecowool panels, ZIPS will not only rid the apartment of extraneous noise, but will also keep the room warm.
3. Ceiling panels. They serve as an excellent way to protect against noise from the ceiling. Wide choose color palette allows you to select the right option for harmonious room design. The ceiling panels are based on basalt fiber, providing reliable sound insulation.
4. Suspended ceiling. The suspended ceiling system has acoustic properties that can protect the apartment from extraneous noise coming from above.
5. Rolled building materials. These materials are based on a special film with sound-absorbing properties. Before application, you should prepare the wall, the surface of which should be smooth and even. The material is attached to the surface with Bustilate.

As you can see, there are a lot of materials and methods for insulating walls from noise. The most important thing is to choose the right option, acceptable in price and quality, so that after the renovation you can fully enjoy the peace and tranquility in your home.

Soundproofing walls in an apartment with your own hands - is this a feasible task? It is safe to say that this is a very real task. First you need to decide in which room you need to insulate, and what surface will be involved. If the noise comes from below, the floor will be soundproofed. In some cases, the entire apartment has to be insulated from noise, but most often the walls are insulated.

Soundproofing walls begins with looking for cracks and cracks in the walls through which noise can penetrate. All of them must be thoroughly puttied. This stage is a very important stage, since after puttying the walls will begin to absorb sound more, not allowing it into the apartment.

The next source of noise entering the apartment are sockets. They are especially annoying in panel houses. Before soundproofing an outlet, you must turn off the electricity in the apartment, observing safety precautions. This can be done on the dashboard by unscrewing the plugs or turning off the machine. After this, for greater reliability, you need to check the outlet with a tester to make sure there is no current. After making sure it is safe, disassemble the socket and pull it out. The hole in the wall is filled with mineral wool or fiberglass (only non-flammable material), and sealed on top with a solution of quick-acting construction mixture, for example plaster.

The next step is to soundproof and seal the heating pipes where they touch the wall. Sound insulation of pipes has great importance, since through them the sound is heard throughout the entire riser of the entrance. To insulate them, an elastic sealant is used, with which all seams between the pipes and the wall are sealed, which is resistant to changes in seasonal temperatures.

The procedure for soundproofing apartment walls made of different materials

Let's take a closer look at the process of soundproofing walls using popular materials.

Plasterboard construction

To build a plasterboard structure you need following materials: wooden slats or profile for plasterboard, hardware for attaching the profile to the floor, walls and ceiling, sound-absorbing layer, screws and plasterboard boards.

Where to begin?

First of all, you need to prepare the walls as indicated above. Next, a frame for drywall is constructed. The profile should not be attached directly to the wall; it is advisable to step 2 cm away from it, placing an anti-vibration rubber or cork pad under the profile.

After constructing the frame, sound-absorbing mineral wool or glass wool is laid under it; it can also be semi-rigid slabs made of this material. When choosing a sound-absorbing material, you should pay attention to its sound absorption coefficient, which is usually higher for soft materials, and therefore the result will be more effective.

The next step is to mount plasterboard boards to the profile with self-tapping screws. Drywall is also an excellent sound-absorbing material.

Calculation of the cost of materials for sound insulation

The main costs include:

• plasterboard - 90 rub./sq.m;
• sound-absorbing material - 60-400 rubles/sq.m. To this should be added the cost of screws and profiles.

The disadvantage of plasterboard insulation is that the area is reduced by approximately 8 cm and there is a lot of dust.

Decorative panels

The construction market offers several types of ready-made decorative panels from different manufacturers. If the wall is not perfectly flat, then such panels will be attached to the sheathing using liquid nails and connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove method. This is a fairly simple way to soundproof a room, but the result exceeds all expectations. Since the panels have a variety of decorative finishes made of paper or fabric, it looks very beautiful.

Decorative soundproofing panels cost approximately 750 rubles/sq.m. Their soundproofing properties are not inferior to plasterboard. In addition, the panels are relatively light - the panel weight is about 4 kg, which is very convenient for installation.

This method of soundproofing is suitable if you plan to insulate the entire room, and not just one wall. Then the decorative panels will become a real decoration of the apartment’s interior, and the tiny reduction in area will be completely unnoticeable.

Gluing roll sound insulation to the wall

The simplest and most cost-effective way to soundproof walls in an apartment is roll sound insulation, which is sold as wallpaper and is glued in exactly the same way as vinyl wallpapers, special glue, intended for such wallpaper.

The cost of such insulating material is 1310 rubles per roll, designed for an area of ​​7 sq.m of wall.

This option is ideal if you do not want to invest money in repairs, for example, when renting a home. The effectiveness of this method is not very high. The noise level will decrease by only 40-50%.

Which of the listed methods you choose depends on your financial capabilities and calculation of your strength. In any case, the work done will give a good result!

Most often, soundproofing of the ceiling in an apartment is done with plasterboard, placing special soundproofing materials under it. Acoustic suspended structures are also often used.

Polyurethane foam mats, basalt wool, cork, and coconut fibers are usually used as soundproofing materials.

To install soundproofing of the ceiling, a number of additional works must be done. Namely, an auxiliary ceiling system is installed.

There are several types of ceiling systems: suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings and suspended ceilings.

Stretch ceilings are installed as follows: special brackets are attached to the ceiling, onto which a special fabric or film specially designed for these purposes is stretched.

For false ceiling a special metal frame is mounted and covered with plasterboard.

Suspended ceilings are installed in the same way as suspended ceilings, but soundproofing boards are inserted into the frame.

All cracks and gaps in the assembled structures are carefully sealed to increase the level of sound insulation.

A popular method of sound insulation is mineral wool slabs.

Mineral wool boards do an excellent job of soundproofing the ceiling. At the same time, they are able to absorb 90% of external noise coming from neighbors, and the same level of noise coming from your apartment.

The technology for installing mineral wool slabs is quite simple: a frame is attached to the ceiling, into which the mineral wool material, after which the ceiling is sheathed with plasterboard. The top of the drywall is usually covered with putty, wallpapered or painted, depending on the desire of the consumer and the design of the room.

This method of sound insulation is the most effective, but it has one drawback: the total thickness of the insulating structure is 15-17 cm, as a result of which the height is significantly reduced. In addition, mineral wool must be carefully insulated, otherwise it can be harmful to human health.

Other ways to insulate the ceiling from extraneous noise

Acoustic stretch ceilings have recently gained increasing popularity thanks to special perforated fabric with excellent sound-absorbing properties.

Cork also has a lot of fans, since its porous structure and special molecular structure perfectly absorbs noise.

Complete sound insulation systems

All sorts of new products in the field of sound insulation are constantly appearing on the modern construction market, opening up new opportunities in this area. For example, it has already become possible not only to order regular ceiling desired type, but also install a comprehensive soundproofing system, which includes several soundproofing materials.

Also, when performing sound insulation with your own hands, you can resort to a combination system by installing a similar membrane in addition to sound-absorbing plates, thereby significantly increasing the sound absorption coefficient.

More recently, special soundproofing boards have appeared on the construction market that can be installed on top of an already installed ceiling system. Such slabs absorb not only sounds coming from neighbors, but also those coming from your room.

So, you are convinced that the choice of methods for soundproofing a ceiling with your own hands is very wide. Your choice depends entirely on your existing needs and financial capabilities. In addition, you can use auxiliary materials, which will improve the existing ceiling system.

Immediately you need to very carefully seal all the cracks and cracks in the coating. After this, the so-called “floating floor” is laid, which should protect the floor covering from contact with the walls. In this way, “noise bridges” in the apartment are eliminated.

A “floating floor” consists of a multi-layer structure or prefabricated material.

The multilayer structure is made up of a layer of insulating material, which is placed on the floor slab, and a concrete screed 3-5 cm thick is poured on top. A substrate is placed on top of the concrete screed, and the final coating is laid on it.

It should be said that multilayer structures are quite thick. Modern ready-made soundproofing material is relatively thinner than a multilayer structure, but, nevertheless, provides fairly high sound insulation performance.

Types of materials for sound insulation

For reliable protection from all types of noise that irritate the ear, special dense materials with high sound insulation values ​​are used, or soft materials, also having high noise-absorbing properties.

Here are some of them:

• TEKSOUND is a heavy sound-absorbing membrane based on the mineral Aragonite. Its thickness is only 3.7 mm, but despite this, it has excellent sound insulation and sound absorption properties. It is capable of isolating 28 dB of noise.
• ISOPLAAT softboard is a soft board made of wood fiber. Has a thickness of 25 mm. It is usually installed under a concrete screed. Fiberboard can overcome noise of 26 dB.
• ISOPLAAT – floor slab made from crushed coniferous tree, has a thickness of 5 and 7 mm. Using such a slab, a “floating floor” is created by covering it with laminate or parquet. The underfloor slab has a noise insulation index of 21 dB.
• SCHUMANET – is a rolled material for sound insulation, 3 mm thick. It is used to isolate impact noise. It is the basis for the “floating screed” and is able to withstand noise of 23 dB.
• Sound insulator SHUMOSTOP is also used to protect against impact noise. It consists of elastic plates with a thickness of 20 mm. Withstands noise levels of 39 dB.
• Vibrostek-V300 is also a rolled material with a thickness of 4 mm. It is intended for multi-layer sound insulation as a basis for a “floating screed”, and also as a backing for a finishing floor covering.
• ISOVER are lightweight mineral wool boards based on fiberglass. They have a thickness of 50-100 mm. Used when laying log floors. Resists airborne noise of 38 dB.

If you select and install soundproofing materials correctly, you will receive guaranteed floor protection from noisy neighbors below.

Soundproofing a floor in a wooden house

Problems with noise in wooden houses are very relevant, since wood has excellent sound conductivity.

Soundproofing the floor in a wooden house can be done using finished floor or soundproofing of floors during construction. For both cases, a “floating floor” is quite suitable.

To ensure insulation of the finished floor, soundproofing material is laid over it, overlapping the walls, and logs are placed on top. After this, the floorboard is nailed to the joists.

Soundproofing of beam floors

To protect a wooden house from noise, beam floors are insulated. To do this, bars are nailed onto the beams, onto which the floor covering will later be attached. Rolled soundproofing material is laid on top of the bars, which should extend slightly onto the wall, not higher than the baseboard. After this, boards are nailed to the bars and plinths are attached.

Along with sound insulation, it would be nice to install thermal insulation.

Sound insulation under floor screed

The “floating floor” under the screed is constructed using the materials Vibrostek, SCHUMANET and SHUMASTOP.

The vibration stack is laid directly on the base of the floor end-to-end, and a plastic film is covered on top, overlapping the walls.

SHUMASTOP slabs are laid end to end on top of the ceiling, separated from the walls by spacer tapes. After this, the slabs are covered with reinforced polyethylene film overlapping the wall to the thickness of the screed.

Rolls of SCHUMANET are spread overlapping, gluing the joints with tape. Like other materials, SCHUMANET is also placed on the walls to a screed height, which should be approximately 6 cm.

Sound insulation of floors on joists

To protect the floor from noise penetration, you need to lay a thin sound-absorbing material on it, and on top of it there are logs made of timber. They should fit with a gap of 20 mm. This gap is filled with a soft sound insulator, and sound-absorbing slabs are laid between the joists. The thickness of the slabs must be at least 50 mm. After this, the top is sheathed with chipboard or plywood. The flooring is laid on top.

Soundproofing floors under laminate

ISOPLAAT laminate underlay is best suited for soundproofing a laminate floor. It is laid directly on the concrete screed, hiding all its unevenness.

The substrate plates must be glued together with tape to avoid discrepancies in the future. There is no need to secure them to the subfloor. Laminate is laid on top of the slabs.

An important fact: laminate flooring has good sound conductivity, so it is imperative to lay a layer of sound insulation underneath it.

Soundproofing floors under tiles

The tiles are laid directly on the concrete screed. Basalt or fiberglass with a thickness of 20-30 mm has proven itself very well as a sound insulator, which, together with the screed, provides reliable sound insulation that can withstand 39 dB.

Soundproofing floors under linoleum

Before laying linoleum, you should lay a layer of soundproofing material Vibrostek. It is laid tightly together, and the seams are secured with tape. Linoleum is laid on top and secured with baseboards.

Using Vibrostack under linoleum reduces the noise level by 29 dB. In dry rooms with low load on the floor, for example in children's rooms or bedrooms, ISOPLAAT coating can be used as sound insulation under linoleum.

Soundproofing doors

A good front door not only protects the apartment from unwanted guests, but also protects them from external noise coming from their entrance, such as loud conversation, clattering heels, etc. In addition, anyone will feel much more comfortable in their apartment, knowing that they will not be eavesdropped through the door. This is why for many people it is worth actual question: “How to soundproof a door in an apartment?”

Today's construction market has a wide variety of models of entrance doors from well-known foreign manufacturers. All of them have a fairly high level of heat and sound insulation. But high-quality metal doors with sound insulation are quite expensive. Therefore, most consumers prefer domestic factory models, or even homemade ones, which consist of solid steel sheet, around the perimeter of which a corner is welded. Sometimes a few more ribs are added between the corners to increase rigidity. Everyone chooses the best door option for themselves. But the noise coming from iron doors is very strong, and besides, when you hit such doors, an echo will wander around the entrance for some time, like when you hit a bell.

And then the question arises: how to turn the doors increased noise in doors with reliable sound insulation?

There are several options for resolving this issue:

1. Soundproof doors yourself;
2. Installation of a second door (tambour type);
3. Combination: vestibule and door soundproofing.

Installing another door requires additional material costs. In addition, if the noise behind the door decreases, the noise of the iron door itself will remain the same.

The best way is combined method soundproofing. First of all, the existing door of the apartment is soundproofed, and then another door is installed. But one should take into account the fact that the cost of such a design may be higher than the cost of a good quality door, and this option is not the best.

Door soundproofing options

The choice of door soundproofing option depends on the design of the door itself. If it is made of two metal sheets permanently welded to the frame and the structure cannot be disassembled, then sound-absorbing materials are attached to the top of the sheet on both sides. It’s good that there is a wide selection of sound insulation on the market, and you can choose the best option in terms of price and performance parameters.

Soundproofing a door is done in a completely different way if it can be disassembled. Then the inner sheet of metal can be removed. If the door consists of one sheet welded to the corner, then the insulating material is attached with inside cavity of the door, and in collapsible doors it is filled with inner part. In addition, along the entire perimeter of the doors, the gap located between the door leaf and the door frame is sealed with special materials, which contributes to additional sound insulation. You can also install a door threshold. These additional actions will not only protect from external noise, but also from the penetration of cold and drafts.

What is sound insulation made of?

External sound insulation can be made of various materials, depending on the financial capabilities of the consumer. It can be solid wood, MDF board, faux leather with a layer of padding polyester or foam rubber, or other insulation. Particular attention should be paid to attaching this material to a metal base, because this cannot be done in bunches.

In addition to the listed materials, a good option for sound insulation metal door is a roll insulator Energoflex and Izolon, which has a self-adhesive base. But for this soundproofing option you will need an external decorative finishing surface of the door that is placed on top of these materials. For example, it could be artificial leather, which today has a large selection of colors and textured structure, which allows you to choose the most the best option, ideally in harmony with the overall design of the room.

The best mounting option decorative material There is “Dragon” glue on the door.

There is also a wide range of insulating materials for filling doors internally. This includes mineral wool, basalt fiber, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, etc. Each of the materials listed above has its own pros and cons that affect the final result, so it is important to choose the “golden mean” among them.

The advantage of mineral wool is its resistance to ignition, that is, it does not burn at all, unlike polystyrene foam, but the disadvantage is that over time it compacts and sags, which reduces its soundproofing abilities. Subsidence can be prevented by installing additional stiffeners.

The advantage of polystyrene foam is that it retains its shape, is more dense and has low cost. But its flammability and the emissions released toxic substances can negate all its advantages. Therefore, in interior spaces polystyrene foam is used very rarely.

Among the listed options, polyurethane foam is the most suitable material for internal door insulation based on its performance characteristics. Practice shows that metal doors with sound insulation made of polyurethane foam have high levels of noise protection.

Any manufacturing process As a rule, it begins with the acquisition of materials and tools necessary for the work.

To install soundproofing you will need the following tools:

• electric drill;
• metal drills;
• wood hacksaw;
• scissors;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• screwdriver;
• stapler

You also cannot do without consumables:

• decorative nails;
• glue;
• self-tapping screws with a hidden head;
• staples for stapler.

The set of tools and materials may vary depending on the method of installing soundproofing and may be larger or smaller.

Before installing soundproofing, the door must be prepared. To do this, all additional elements are removed from it, such as door handles, peephole, sign with apartment number. When finishing a non-removable door with self-adhesive materials (energoflex, isolon), they are glued to the grease-free surface of the door leaf. A decorative coating is glued on top with Dragon glue. Before use, it is recommended to dilute the glue with industrial alcohol and then apply it to the surface of the insulating material. When the bonded surface has dried, you can reinstall the removed additional elements.

The technological process of soundproofing a collapsible door is very different from the previous process, and this difference is both in the soundproofing material itself and in the method of its installation.

First of all, it is removed from the inside of the door a metal sheet designs, and inner space filled with soundproofing material, which is glued using PVA glue, “Moment”, or liquid nails. Silicone sealant it is necessary to eliminate all gaps that may exist between the outer sheet and the frame. After installing the inner sheet of the metal door in its place, all cracks on the inside are eliminated with sealant.

Owners of a single metal door know firsthand how loud it sounds. To install soundproofing on a single metal door, you need wooden slats and a sheet of plywood. The improvement of such a door begins with the manufacture of a frame of wooden slats, which is attached to the inside of the door with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes in the corner. Soundproofing material is inserted and secured into the frame. After this, the internal space, filled with soundproofing material, is sewn up with plywood, which in turn is covered decorative coating. At the very end, door handles and a peephole are installed.

Often, while in your apartment, you can hear the sound of water being flushed from the toilet tank in the next apartment. This is especially unpleasant for residents of the lower ones, above which there are many residential apartments. After all, the speed of falling water increases depending on the height from which it flows. Therefore, its audibility increases with height. In addition to the sound of water, you can often hear the amateur chants of a neighbor taking a bath, which is difficult for a person with impaired psyche or perfect hearing to endure.

Sounds through pipes, including water noise, are transmitted by the materials from which the pipes are made. Previously, when the sewer pipe system was made of thick-walled cast iron, the noise from the water was much lower. In modern times, cast iron has been replaced by modern materials such as polyvinyl chloride and other types of plastic. The thickness of the walls of water and sewer pipes has become much thinner, as a result of which the noise from falling water has practically ceased to be absorbed by them.

Although modern pipe materials, such as polyethylene and polyvinyl chloride, have high performance, the level of sound insulation is very low.

How is pipes in an apartment soundproofed to reduce noise transmitted through pipes? The easiest way to get rid of noise is to move the riser outside the apartment. But such a decision is made at the design stage of a residential building. And it is very rare. Typically, risers are located either in the bathroom or in the toilet. Therefore, we will consider ways to eliminate noise from pipes within the apartment.

Pipe insulation methods

The first method is to install silent sewer pipes. The modern construction market has a wide selection of these types of pipes, which differ in material structure, wall thickness and density level. The higher these indicators, the lower the noise level from the draining water.

Silent sewer pipes differ from ordinary ones in cost, which is higher than the cost of ordinary ones plastic pipes. They can also be distinguished by their white color, while ordinary pipes are dark gray.

Sewer pipes can be insulated with various soundproofing materials. Moreover, anyone can do this work. Most suitable material For sound insulation of pipes, isopropylene, porous rubber, and polyethylene foam are used. Polyurethane foam, which has a high sound conductivity rate, cannot be used for these purposes.

Also, to reduce structural noise emanating from sewer pipes, fasteners with rubber gaskets in clamps are used. Using this method, you can practically get rid of noise that will not be transmitted to the walls.

The area where the sewer riser comes into contact with the ceiling must be sealed with foamed polyethylene or porous rubber, which will significantly reduce the transmission of sounds into the floor slab.

It is clear that a riser wrapped in soundproofing material does not have a very attractive appearance. Therefore, it is often covered with a box made of decorative material, which also helps reduce noise levels and adds beauty to the room.

But you cannot completely close the riser, especially if there is an inspection in the bathroom or bathroom. There must be open access to connections in water and sewer pipes, which are usually located in the vicinity of the sewer riser. If an emergency suddenly occurs, with open access it will be possible to quickly fix problems without destroying decorative partition, separating the pipe system from the bathroom or bathroom.

From all of the above, you have seen how useful soundproofing an apartment is, and if you do it yourself, you will gain in your home cozy corner, where you can relax and unwind after a hard day, away from the hustle and bustle.