Should I putty the walls? Is it necessary to putty drywall before wallpapering? Let's look into the issue. Correct application is half the success

The entire puttying process can be divided into main stages:

I'll say right away thatIt is imperative to plaster walls, partitions, and plasterboard ceilings. It is necessary to putty not only the seams and screw heads, but also the drywall itself. And apply 2-3 layers. Read below why to do this.

How to putty drywall?

Anyone who has ever watched the work of drywall workers has probably been surprised at how easy and simple it is, and why is their work so valued? You can find the answer yourself if you putty the drywall yourself. This work is very painstaking and requires certain skills. Before you begin the main body of the wall, you should practice for some time, somewhere in a closet or garage, or even specially mount some kind of stand from scraps of GC sheets, where there are more than enough joints, and try to “create” an ideal plane.

Tools and materials needed for processing drywall

As for any other construction and installation operation, for puttying and finishing plasterboard surfaces you will need a set of tools and materials for specific purposes. This:

It is advisable to purchase professional grade tools. The technology for puttingtying drywall is not very complicated, but all stages can be completed with the appropriate level of quality only with the help of convenient professional tools. If the spatula bends and vibrates on the handle, and the knife does not cut, but tears the paper covering of the sheet and crumbles the plaster, there can be no talk of quality work.

The materials required are a dry putty composition for the plane of the sheet and, separately, for sealing the seams. Specialized stores sell ready-made putties in jars, but this is a material for professionals. At our qualification stage it is too early to use them.

Tip 1. Preparation of putty:

The mixture must be prepared in such quantity as to work it out before it begins to set in the container. This is determined experimentally, depending on your qualifications. The mixer speed should be low or medium. When stirring at high speeds, the quality of the putty deteriorates, especially for sealing joints.

Good to know:

Water should not be added to the solidifying mixture. This putty can peel off.

Gypsum, cement or polymer putties are equally suitable for use. But in kitchens or bathrooms it is better to use cement or polymer ones.

Preparatory work for puttying drywall

Putty work begins with preparing the surface of the drywall. All connections need to be checked, tighten or twist low-quality screws, the heads of which protrude above the plane of the main frame or are too recessed, check whether all joints are made correctly. The joining of the sheets, regardless of whether they are joined by a factory cut or made by you, must be done on a metal profile to which both sheets are screwed.

New cuts at the seams are processed using a knife in such a way as to create a groove with side walls inclined at 45° and a depth of about 2-3 mm. This is necessary for a better connection of the putty with the gypsum mass.

Seam putty

Primer of all joints required. When cutting the edges, you need to make sure that the paper does not lift up and the plaster does not crumble. If this happens, crumbs and rags must be carefully cut off. Everything will be filled with putty during further operations.

Important!

When filling seams, you need to use a special putty for seams (for example, Knauf Uniflot). Regular finishing putty is not designed for this. It will simply crack. This is especially critical if the putty is done before painting!

The tape is glued so that it equally covers the joining sheets of drywall. The seams are puttied in the longitudinal direction relative to the seam. Two spatulas of different widths are used. First, the putty is applied narrowly, then the wide one is smoothed along the length of the seam.

After the first layer has dried, it is sanded with sandpaper or a special mesh, then cleaned of dust and re-primed. You can process it a second time after a few hours, when the primer has dried.

Tip 2. Seam alignment:

When working, you should achieve maximum compliance between the filling levels of the seam and the plane of the sheet. If you get grooves or bumps, they cannot be removed after the putty dries.

Video instruction

Puttying screws and corners

Preparing drywall for puttying includes such stages of work as puttingtying corners, slopes and screws. This work is not difficult, but it requires maximum care and a lot of time. You should be patient and distribute the work so as to avoid forced downtime, when, for example, you need to wait for the putty to dry.

The easiest way to deal with sealing screws. First, run a clean putty knife along the screw line. It shouldn't touch any hats. If this happens, the screw needs to be tightened or twisted, but in a different place, at a distance of at least 5 centimeters from the previous place. The depth of penetration of the cap into the sheet should not exceed half the thickness of the HA. Places where previously removed screws were located or where they were screwed in too deeply must be filled with putty separately to the level of the sheet plane.

All screws are puttied crosswise. This ensures the highest quality filling of the slots in the caps, and the screws become invisible.

Window and door slopes are first reinforced with an aluminum corner, which is secured with a stapler or placed on putty. First we apply a small layer of putty, and then place a corner on it and press it. Another 1-2 layers are applied on top to make the structure even.

The corners are puttied on each side alternately. First, a layer of putty is applied to one of the walls, then, after it has completely dried, the second wall is treated. It is worth recalling that before these operations the wall is primed.

Wall putty

After completing all the protracted and monotonous work on preparing corners, joints and slopes, the time comes for more active work. Before you putty the plasterboard walls, you need to check again that all the joints have been processed, that the paper is not peeling off from the gypsum mass, and that the seams are not cracking.

Work begins with applying a primer. To the question: Do I need to prime drywall? The answer is only positive. Not just necessary, but necessary. Increasing the adhesion of drywall will not only strengthen the putty layer, but also make the work easier. The putty sets more slowly and there is always the possibility of a second pass to eliminate minor imperfections.

Tip 3:

Alkyd compounds are not used for drywall. These are incompatible materials.

Video instructions for puttying plasterboard walls

GK putty for painting

Plasterboard putty It is done much more carefully than under wallpaper. The finishing composition must be thoroughly mixed until the consistency of sour cream, without lumps or foreign inclusions. The amount of putty ready for use should be enough for about half an hour of work.

Finishing putty of drywall is carried out in such a way that the wall is completed in one stage. If you leave part of the wall untreated, microcracks are possible at the junctions of the sections. The consumption of putty per square meter of drywall is small - about 1 kilogram of dry mixture per m2.

Important!

Each subsequent layer of putty is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

When using polymer compounds, you can limit yourself to a weight of half a kilogram. But each brand of putty has its own characteristics, so it is best to calculate consumption using the instructions on the packaging of the material.

GK putty for wallpapering

Plasterboard putty requires less careful processing, but before gluing wallpaper it is necessary to completely prime the wall plane with a water-soluble primer, which increases the adhesion of the surface layer and the depth of penetration of the adhesive deep into the sheet of plasterboard. Puttying of plasterboard walls for wallpapering is done in such a way that the walls are completely dry before wallpapering begins. Wet putty will not hold the glue, and the wallpaper will peel off, especially with the start of the heating season.

The technology for puttingtying the ceiling is no different from working with walls, but it is important to take into account the fact that you need to start from the ceiling. For this, two spatulas are used - 45 -70 cm wide and 10 -15 cm wide. A spatula is also useful for processing corners.

First, in the direction from the window, apply the first layer of putty no more than 2-3 mm thick and carefully level it. The second layer is applied after 12 hours, when the previous one has dried. It is thinner - about 1 mm. Its goal is to level out all the features of the ceiling “relief” that were admitted during the first pass.

Sanding is done using sandpaper or mesh attached to a special holder. After this, the ceiling is thoroughly cleaned of dust and primed again. Putty in three layers involves applying a finishing putty on top of the previous two and sanding again with a fine mesh. Before painting, the ceiling must be primed again. When sanding the ceiling, be sure to use a respirator!

If you look at standard apartments in ordinary houses, it is wallpaper that takes up most of the surfaces of the walls and ceiling. This finishing material attracts with its simplicity, cost, and speed of work. Today you can choose not only from a variety of colors, but also from quality.

Wallpaper is used on a variety of surfaces, for example, on brick and concrete walls, which must first be plastered to create a smooth surface. They are often glued to plasterboard walls, and the question often arises whether it is necessary to putty the walls before gluing wallpaper or whether this stage of work can be neglected. We will try to reveal the answer to this in this article.

Preparing the surfaces

Concrete or brick wall

Before gluing wallpaper on such a surface, you must use putty. In this situation, two stages are implied - applying the starting layer and then the finishing layer. In this case, it is necessary to clean the surface of debris, remove flaking old plaster and remove dust using soil.

The starting putty can be applied in a layer as thick as 60 mm in one go. It has a coarse-grained structure and therefore allows you to quickly prepare the surface for finishing. Usually they use a beacon system, which makes it possible to properly level the surface.

After this, the wall is given time to dry completely. If you do not wait, then in these places the wallpaper will begin to wrinkle and bubble, as the material will begin to deform as it dries.

Advice: you can check whether the surface has dried or not visually - there are dark spots on it, which means it is not yet time for further work.

The second stage is covering the gypsum boards themselves with a thin layer of finishing putty with your own hands. Although there are finishers who skip this stage in order to complete the work faster.

But let's see what this could mean in the future. For example, after 10 years or earlier you want to change the interior of your apartment, for which the best and fastest way is to re-glue the wallpaper.

What will happen as a result is that the old panels will “peel off” along with the cardboard surface of the slabs, exposing a layer of gypsum. Such sheets cannot be used in the future; they should be replaced. Thus, you will have to waste money and time.

If you had previously covered the surface of the plasterboard sheets with finishing putty, such a misunderstanding would not have occurred. Therefore, the answer is unequivocal - putty on gypsum boards is required.

Now about the joints. They can be reinforced without using additional materials for this. In the first case, use any starting and finishing putty, in the second - a special mixture for sealing joints of gypsum boards "Uniflot".

But even in this case, additional processing will not hurt.

1. Buy fiberglass in a store or market, which is usually sold in rolls 1 m wide, the price of which is quite affordable.
2. Also buy PVA glue marked “construction”.
3. Use a brush to coat the dried, sealed seams between the gypsum boards.
4. Cut a 70 mm wide bobbin from the roll with a plasterboard knife and glue it to the seam. Cover it again with PVA glue on top.

After the joints have dried, apply a deep penetration primer to the gypsum board and, after it has dried, a layer of finishing putty. Only after this you can glue wallpaper onto the gypsum board without worrying that someday you will have to do costly repairs again.

Conclusion

The use of putty on the surface that will subsequently be covered with wallpaper is mandatory. This is especially true for plasterboard sheets. There is no need to make the surface perfectly smooth; small scratches will be reliably hidden by the wallpaper ().

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

So let's start from the beginning. During the renovation process, walls and ceilings go through three stages of finishing. The first stage is preparatory. This includes removing old wallpaper from the walls (or whitewash from the ceiling), removing crumbling putty and plaster, and similar work. The second stage is rough finishing. It, in principle, comes down to three things: reinforcement, leveling and putty. The third stage is finishing. These are: wallpapering, painting, or applying wall coverings.

A very common mistake is to assume that all repairs come down to the third stage, and the first two can be neglected. I’ll try to explain why they are needed. With the preparatory stage, everything is more or less obvious: if you paint over whitewash, the paint will fall off along with the whitewash; if you paste it on old wallpaper, the old wallpaper will swell under the new one, and everything will be lost. It’s also clear with reinforcement: if you want there to be no cracks, you need to reinforce it.

The benefits of leveling and puttying walls are not so obvious at first glance. What are they for? Let's start with putty. Sometimes you see expensive, good wallpaper pasted on the walls; and under them it was as if they had piled up rubbish - everything was covered in pimples, or the wall was breaking under them. This, of course, is not fatal, but the appearance of the repair deteriorates. This happens because the wallpaper is glued to unputtyed walls. But even this is not the worst thing. Wallpaper is a very capricious material. Wallpaper fits well on a uniform surface. If the surface is uneven and you are trying to glue the wallpaper end-to-end, do not be surprised if (when the wallpaper dries) the seams come apart.

So, wall putty is needed, firstly, in order to make the walls smooth. Wallpaper will fit better on smooth walls than on bumpy ones (after all, there is an air bubble under each bump). The putty also smooths out all sorts of sagging plaster, fills potholes, and removes small defects on the wall surface. Finally, the putty creates a uniform wall surface, on which the wallpaper will then fit well. Based on all this, good craftsmen who value their reputation will not even begin to glue wallpaper on unputtyed walls - they simply cannot guarantee that the wallpaper will fit well.

If with putty we can say unequivocally that this must be done, then with leveling everything is somewhat more complicated. In principle, you can make repairs without leveling anything at all. Since putty is often confused with leveling, let me explain - putty simply makes the walls smooth, it does not make them even, it is not designed for that; In order for the walls to become even, they must be leveled with plaster before applying putty. If putty is needed for technological reasons, then leveling is needed for aesthetic reasons.

Before starting renovations at home on your own, a person must decide a number of issues for himself. They may concern not only what you would like to change in the interior of the house, but also the repair technology itself. After all, people always strive to carry out repair work correctly, so as not to regret it later.

After you have removed the old wallpaper, the question arises: is it necessary to putty and prime the walls before gluing? We can say with confidence that this treatment will help achieve excellent results and protect the walls from the harmful effects of external factors.

The days of plastering walls and using newspapers are long gone. Nowadays, people are increasingly treating surfaces using new technologies using drywall, primer and putty.

Let's get started

• Primer is an excellent material for protecting the walls of your home from mold and mildew. In addition, it has antiseptic properties and helps finishing materials adhere well to the surface. The walls must be primed if you want to make them smooth and remove all roughness.
• Please note that putty is applied only after priming the walls.(and after that you will need to prime the surface again). First of all, it is necessary to putty the walls in order to level the surface and give it a solid white color. This action helps to avoid dark concrete showing through the wallpaper, especially when the wallpaper itself is quite thin. To obtain a fairly smooth wall surface, it is advisable to apply putty in at least two layers.

Detailed material on preparing the surface for wallpapering.

Drywall needs to be completely puttied!

Sometimes people wonder whether it’s worth putting putty on drywall, since it’s already perfectly smooth? And that’s true, you can only putty the seams and start gluing. However, it is worth considering that the wallpaper in this case will stick tightly. And when the time comes to change the wallpaper, you will need to glue it on top of the old ones, since they can only be torn off together with pieces of drywall. To avoid such an unpleasant situation, it is advisable to pre-putty the drywall.

As you can see, finishing work not only helps to achieve perfect alignment of the walls, but also gives them additional protection from external factors. The priming procedures are not so difficult. Anyone can do them, armed only with the necessary tools. Wallpapering will definitely please the owner of the house with its result, if all the rules for preparing for it were strictly followed.

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Discussion:

Putty is a must! There is no other way! Plus priming. We prime the drywall, then putty and sand it. We remove all imperfections, where necessary we putty (remove all the holes, burrs, scratches from the spatula), where we need to sand again. Next we prime and wait for the finished surface to dry. And wallpapering!
To paste heavy wallpaper, you need to select a putty that is designed for heavy wallpaper. Usually, putty packages indicate where to use and on what walls. Good luck!

Hello! Tell me please? If you glue heavy (dense) vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven or paper backing (duplex) to drywall, do you need to putty the entire surface of the drywall? After all, such wallpaper can only be removed with the first layer, while the second layer (white interlining or paper), on the contrary, is recommended to be left to strengthen the wall and apply new wallpaper?

We have such a problem when we are doing renovations in the village, where the putty takes a very long time to dry... and there is no time to sit there for a couple of days.. Please tell me whether it is necessary to putty the walls (we have drywall) before gluing the wallpaper

We have a small old apartment with stove heating where there was not even a shower, that is, a very small toilet, my husband solved this problem, but then his hands gave up. The wall in the toilet began to crumble, soon the neighbors will be visible. Tell me why should I restore the wall with concrete or immediately cover this disgrace with plasterboard, I want to take on the repairs myself

During the renovation, we putty completely - the point is not even that after the wallpaper will be torn off along with pieces of gypsum board, but also that after gluing the wallpaper, dark places are visible - where there was no putty, and light places where there was putty - the joints of plasterboard sheets. Therefore, of course, it is better not to be lazy and putty.

As for whether it is necessary to putty drywall, I also asked myself this question. Then it turned out that the wallpaper would be removed along with the drywall paper. Another point is that drywall does not always create an ideal plane.

Hello, Valentina! You can prime in advance, but in such a way that the walls do not have time to become dusty (so you should not prime the walls a week before the start of repairs).
It is best to prime the surfaces a day before starting work, although nothing bad will happen within 2-3 days. Moreover, many people who glue wallpaper on their own do not even know about the need to prime their walls. And nothing, somehow the wallpaper holds up!

Hello! We have a question. The walls in the new house are prepared - you need to glue the wallpaper, but before that they say you need to prime them. Can we prime the walls in advance or does this need to be done immediately before pasting on the same day?

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Anyone who has ever encountered a wall knows perfectly well what the “ideal” walls are in our homes. These are continuous pits, tubercles and cracks. If the defects are very large, then you can’t do without them, but to correct minor surface flaws you can use a special putty. In today's article we will look at what this composition is, its types, in what cases it is used and how to properly putty walls and ceilings.

Read in the article

What is putty and why is it needed?

Putty or, more correctly, putty (from the name of the tool “spatula”) is a fairly plastic finishing material that is used to eliminate surface defects, as well as create a durable and strong base for or. The preparation of walls or ceilings consists of several stages, and each of them requires its own type of this construction and finishing composition.

Dry or ready-made putty mixture, which can be starting, finishing and universal, consists of the following main ingredients:

• gypsum;
• various fillers;
• plasticizers;
• thickeners and hardeners.

Types of putty

As we have already mentioned, finishing work using putty is carried out in several stages, and each of them requires its own type of special mixture, namely:

• starting putty designed to eliminate surface defects and is the basis for decorative finishing of walls and ceilings;
• finishing mixture used to create the final decorative layer;
• universal putty can be used simultaneously as a starting and finishing mixture.

Putty Perfekta Start Glide

Weber KR putty

Perfekta Ekokraft putty

What spatulas are needed for puttying walls and leveling corners?

Spatulas are used in many types of construction and finishing work, and each requires its own tool. They differ in size and shape. The table shows the main types of spatulas indicating their purpose.

What is the best wall putty to use when leveling surfaces?

In addition to the fact that putty can be starting, finishing and universal, it also differs in composition. So, putty mixtures are:

• acrylic – used for interior finishing work. This type of putty is highly moisture-resistant and versatile, protects walls from dampness, and is also used to create a decorative finishing layer and is suitable for working with wooden surfaces;
• water-dispersed – has high elasticity, good adhesion, resistance to cracks and shrinkage, and is also durable;
• oil-glue mixture. The putty composition is made on the basis of drying oil and is ideal for creating a finishing layer before painting the surface with oil paints;
• cement putty excellent for working with stone and surfaces in rooms with high;
• gypsum mixture used for work in rooms with low humidity levels .

Why do you need putty - different for each layer

Applying any putty in several thin or one thick layer is ineffective, since the material is expensive and drying will take a lot of working time. Therefore, to eliminate significant defects and level the surface, use it, then apply a starting (1-3 mm) and finishing (up to 0.5 mm) layer with putty. To create a high-quality and more durable finish, it is necessary to use materials from the same manufacturer.

Starting putty (plaster) helps create a solid foundation for subsequent finishing

Plaster KNAUF Rotband

Only one finishing coat can be applied to a high-quality surface. Before puttingtying the wall or ceiling, it is necessary to use the starting putty composition only after that. After drying, it is sanded, dust is removed and covered with a finishing layer.

Putty DANOGIPS Dano Top 5

The surface that will subsequently be painted must be brought to a perfectly flat and smooth state. If the wall is being finished for subsequent pasting, then it is enough to use starting putty.

Technology of puttying walls and ceilings

Puttying is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance. To perform work efficiently, you need a certain amount of experience, which can be acquired over time. In order to learn how to putty walls and ceilings yourself, you must follow the instructions that will be presented below.

Surface preparation and priming

Before you start finishing the walls and ceiling with putty, you need to clean the surface of the old coating, grease stains, dirt and dust. After this, the surface must be treated with a special primer, which will create good adhesion between the finishing material and the wall. Priming is done using a roller, making sure there are no gaps, and the wall is left to dry for at least 24 hours.

How to prepare putty correctly

To obtain high-quality finished putty, you must follow the instructions indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer of the finishing material. To prepare the solution, you will need a clean plastic container of appropriate volume. You will also need an electric drill with a special metal whisk for high-quality mixing of the dry mixture with water.

The putty solution is prepared in the following sequence:

1. Pour ¼ of clean water at room temperature into the container.
2. Gradually add the required amount of dry mixture.
3. Using an electric mixer, mix the putty until it becomes a homogeneous mass.
4. Leave the finished composition for 10 minutes to proof.
5. Mix the solution thoroughly again.
6. The consistency of the finished putty should be similar to thick sour cream. If the solution is thicker, it will adhere less well to the surface, and the liquid composition flows off the spatula and forms sagging on the surface being treated.

A comment

“At one time you need to prepare the amount of solution that the master can use in about 40 minutes.”

Primary leveling of walls with putty

Before leveling the walls with putty, you need to check them using a rule that will allow you to identify bumps and depressions. Having identified significant defects in the form of protrusions, you can cut them down with an ax or a hammer drill with a chisel. Next, you need to prime the walls and only then prepare the putty composition.

First you need to make a small amount of putty in order to determine the speed of work. Using a narrow spatula, evenly apply the prepared solution onto a wider one, which is applied to the wall at an angle of approximately 60˚, and stretch it over the surface to be treated. The tool must be held firmly, but without excessive force. Over time, you can learn to control the pressure on the spatula.

A comment

Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"

“Putting the walls should start from the corner of the room. A special angled spatula is used for this.”

After the walls are plastered, you need to let them dry for 2 days. After drying, the quality of the work will be visible and where additional finishing will be required. Irregularities are identified by the same rule. After that, defect elimination is carried out in two ways:

1. If there are depressions on the surface, they are filled with another layer of putty.
2. If there are tubercles, they can be removed using a special grater with abrasive and a perfectly smooth surface can be achieved.

After the surface has dried and defects have been eliminated, the walls are primed, and you can begin applying finishing putty or gluing.

Puttying the surface using beacons

The better the quality of the base, the less finishing putty will be required and, accordingly, the cheaper the repair will be. To obtain an ideal surface, special perforated profiles are used - “beacons”, which allow you to quickly and efficiently level the walls, which is perfect for beginners.

The metal profile is installed on a sand-cement mortar, focusing on a plumb line or building level and achieving an ideal vertical. The distance between the beacons should be 100-150 mm less than the length of the building rule used. After installing the beacons, you need to let the solution dry so that they do not get lost during subsequent finishing with putty.

Prepare putty (described above) and fill the gap between the beacons with it, and the maximum layer thickness does not matter. Relying on the profiles, pull from the bottom up, cutting off excess mortar and, if necessary, filling the depressions with it. The operation is performed several times until the desired result is obtained. Depending on the temperature, humidity in the room and the thickness of the layer, it sometimes takes more than a week for the putty to dry.

How to apply putty to the wall for the finishing layer

After the walls are prepared accordingly, you can proceed to finishing the surface with finishing putty. For this purpose, compositions are used, dry or ready-made, which after processing acquire an even and perfectly smooth surface. The finishing putty is applied in a thin layer, and the smoother the base, the less solution consumption will be. The technology of puttying and sanding is practically no different from working with starting mixtures.

We bring to your attention a video on how to apply finishing putty to a wall:

Drying, sanding and sanding putty walls

The final stage of finishing work using putty requires serious attention and consists of several stages. One of them is sanding, which is often skipped by inexperienced finishers, but first things first. So, after applying the finishing layer of putty, you need to let it dry well, since it is after this that the smallest defects become noticeable, namely cracks, which must be repaired when they occur.

Advice! To identify defects during puttying, it is necessary to use lighting devices with a powerful, bright lamp and aimed at a slight angle at the wall being treated.

After the putty has dried, you need to sand the surface to remove small bumps and sagging, and also to make the wall perfectly smooth. If you intend to paste over the wall, then it will be enough to sand it well, but in case of painting, additional sanding will be required. To bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state, you can use fine (almost zero) sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.

You need to start sanding from any upper corner and, making circular movements, process the wall, highlighting it with powerful bright light. It is undesirable to apply strong pressure on the grater so as not to damage the finishing layer.

A comment

Team leader of the repair and construction company "Dom Premium"

“Since sanding and sanding are very dirty and dusty stages of finishing work, it is worth using a respirator, safety glasses and gloves, and the room is well ventilated. In addition, these protective measures are required by the safety instructions.”

How to putty walls under wallpaper with your own hands

The technology for puttingtying walls under is practically no different from finishing surfaces under:

1. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions on the package.
2. The work is carried out with two spatulas - one with a width of 150 mm and the second with a width of at least 300 mm.
3. One section is processed, after the second, with an overlap of about 50 mm, etc.
4. After the wall is completely plastered, it is allowed to dry, and only then do they begin to level the wall by sanding.
5. Clean the surface from dust, reapply putty, and then repeat everything all over again until a perfectly flat surface is achieved.

When the wall is completely plastered, it is primed and pasted over. Applying a primer prevents the occurrence of fungus, mold and dampness, and also improves adhesion between various finishing materials. The video shows how to properly putty walls under wallpaper:

Do-it-yourself putty on walls for painting

Photo	Process description
	First of all, using a wide spatula, like a scraper, we remove minor defects from the wall in the form of tubercles and sagging.
	As a rule, we check the evenness of the wall.
	We pay special attention to the corners.
	If there are bumps, remove them using a hammer drill with a chisel.
	We prime the wall with a roller or spray.
	We apply cement-sand mortar in the corners along the entire vertical.
	The rule is to tighten the solution.
	We get this almost perfect and even angle.
	For puttying we will use dry polymer putty and a ready-made paste solution.
	We glue corner-forming tape onto the putty, which will help prevent the formation of cracks.
	Remove excess putty from the perforations.
	We use putty to remove the minimal differences between the flight deck and the wall.
	The result should be such a perfectly even angle.
	Now we prepare a putty solution from the dry polymer mixture.
	Apply putty solution to the wall.
	Apply the putty in a thin layer.
	After the first layer has dried, use a spatula to scrape off the slightest bumps and sagging.
	We apply the second layer of putty by installing a spotlight on the side, which helps to identify surface defects.
	After the second layer has dried, use a grater and a portable lamp to sand the wall.
	After sanding and removing dust, apply glue for fiberglass with a spray bottle, adding gray pigment to it. By the way, on a gray surface when applying white putty, it will be clearly visible where the solution was applied in insufficient quantities.
	We glue fiberglass to the wall and smooth it with a spatula.
	Apply a thin layer of ready-made super-finish putty mixture onto the fiberglass.
	After the putty has dried, sand the wall, prime and apply