Scheme of operation of an iron potbelly stove. How to make a potbelly stove yourself at home. Potbelly stove made from a milk can

Heating technical premises often becomes a real problem. Electricity is expensive, resulting in high heating costs. The best way out is to use alternative energy sources. This can be firewood, coal, anthracite and much more.

Furnaces of various formats are used to burn solid fuels. One of them is a potbelly stove, characterized by extreme simplicity and low cost.

In this review we will talk:

• About the features of potbelly stoves;
• About the materials needed for their assembly;
• About the step-by-step assembly of a potbelly stove.

Upgrading the potbelly stove will also be considered, which will help increase its efficiency. The article will be interesting - read and get acquainted.

What is a potbelly stove?

Potbelly stoves have been known among our compatriots for a very long time. They gained their popularity due to their extreme simplicity. A simple metal box with a door and a blower - and the simplest version of the stove is already ready. Considering the ingenuity of our people, this world has seen many different bourgeois women, delighting their owners with the coveted warmth. Let's see what you can assemble such a stove from:

You can make a potbelly stove not only from a used safe or a well-worn gas cylinder, but also by simply welding several sheets of durable metal together.

• From an old gas cylinder is an excellent option, all that remains is to find the cylinder itself (you will get a horizontal or vertical stove). Plump modifications are suitable here, since thin and tall oxygen cylinders are too narrow;
• From an old flask - someone probably has such a thing lying around in their garage or barn. There is already a door here, all that remains is to attach the chimney;
• From an old barrel - homemade long-burning potbelly stoves are often made from them, since the capacity of the barrels allows you to organize a large combustion chamber;
• There is no need to throw away the old safe from the old safe, it will still serve.

Homemade potbelly stoves can also be made from sheet metal - for this you need to arm yourself with suitable tools.

The construction of a potbelly stove is extremely simple. Its basis is a certain capacious container, which plays the role of a combustion chamber. A pipe emerges from its upper or rear part, to which the chimney is attached. In the front part there are two doors (less often one) - fuel is loaded through the large one, and ash is removed through the small one. The internal space is divided by a metal grate through which air is supplied - through which the ash formed during the combustion of wood is removed.

The lower door simultaneously acts as a blower - by adjusting the degree of its opening, you regulate the intensity of the flame and the temperature in the room.

The dimensions of the potbelly stove can be very different, for example, 250x450x450 mm (WxDxH). A gas cylinder will make a larger and more efficient stove. The largest size will be a barrel stove - after all, the internal volume of 150-200 liters can accommodate a huge amount of firewood. You can make a unit of almost any size - you don’t even have to worry too much about strictly observing the dimensions indicated in the drawings.

Scope of application for potbelly stoves

These simple stoves are in great demand. For their work, they use firewood, coal, coke, wood waste and many other types of fuel, pleasing with their unpretentiousness and stable operation. Such a stove can be placed in the garage - it will take up minimal space, but will provide the room with pleasant warmth. If you have a large supply of firewood or access to a cheap source of solid fuel, feel free to build a long-burning potbelly stove.

Wood is the simplest, cheapest and most widely available type of fuel for stoves. However, its consumption leaves much to be desired.

A mini potbelly stove can be used to heat a barn or home utility room that does not have heating. Agree, doing something here in winter is not so comfortable - your teeth chatter and your muscles cramp. And with the stove, things immediately go smoothly - just have time to add firewood so as not to freeze.

Long-burning potbelly stoves are useful not only for the garage, but also for any other premises, including residential ones - these can be temporary buildings, cottages, poultry houses, premises for keeping livestock and much more. In general, the scope of their application is huge. They are most in demand in towns and villages where there is no gas, but residential and non-residential buildings need to be heated somehow.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's see what's good about homemade potbelly stoves made by folk craftsmen:

• Cheap - most materials can be found for free or you can pay mere pennies for them;
• Omnivorous - in fact, any solid fuel can burn in a potbelly stove;
• Simple design - if we look at the drawings, we will not find anything complicated in them;
• Possibility of cooking - for this purpose, potbelly stoves are equipped with cooking holes with lids;
• Ease of operation - provided there is a good chimney, the potbelly stove will work properly and without causing smoke in the entire room.

Unfortunately, heating with a potbelly stove also has its disadvantages:

• Low efficiency of the stove - without proper modernization, most of the heat will fly into the chimney;
• Not the most respectable appearance - although some craftsmen make real works of art out of potbelly stoves;
• High body temperature can cause burns;
• High fuel consumption - in order for the stove to retain heat for a long time, without requiring the burning of tons of wood, you will have to resort to tricks.

Despite some disadvantages, simple wood-burning stoves are still in demand among those who need heat in the absence of a gas main.

How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands

You can make a potbelly stove with your own hands surprisingly quickly. First you need to decide what material it will be made of. Prepare the following tools:

A home-made potbelly stove can have the most intricate and elaborate appearance. Show your imagination and you can get a unique thing, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

• Grinder (angle grinder);
• Welding machine;
• Sandpaper and file for processing metal edges;
• Tape measure for measuring sizes;
• A powerful drill and suitable drill bits.

Let's see how to cook a potbelly stove with good heat transfer for a summer house or garage from an iron barrel.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

The simplest option is a potbelly stove made from a large-volume barrel (150-200 liters). It needs to be supplemented with grates, doors and a chimney. We begin the manufacture of the stove by constructing a reliable non-combustible base. The best option is to lay out a small brickwork on which the barrel itself will stand. It will take several days to make it. After this, we proceed to further work.

In the front wall of our potbelly stove, you should cut a rectangular hole for the loading door - use a metal jigsaw for this. The resulting piece of metal will act as our door - we attach a rotating lock, handle and hinges to it. After this, we weld the second part of the loops to the barrel. On the opposite side we weld a metal loop into which the constipation will fit.

At the bottom you need to make an ash pan with another door. We allocate 10-15% of the total volume for it. We make the door using the method described above, but it should be narrower - the ash is raked out through it, and it also serves as an ash pit. The optimal height is 40-50 mm. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of grates:

• Cut off the top lid of the barrel;
• We make a grate from sections of metal pipes (you should get a circle with long slots);
• We weld the grate on the inside of the barrel, between the loading door and the ash pan door.

An old can or flask is also a great option. Using it, you free yourself from the need to weld the loading door.

We make a hole in the lid with a diameter of 100 mm, weld a small piece of pipe of the same diameter here - this will be the chimney hole. Next, weld the lid in place. Our potbelly stove is ready, all that remains is to attach a chimney to it and we can start testing - load the wood and try to light the flame.

We have made a long-burning potbelly stove with our own hands - it has an extremely large combustion chamber. Please note that you can make a cooking hole in the top lid - its diameter is 100-150 mm. Instead of a barrel, you can easily use a gas cylinder or a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. Remember that a potbelly stove made from a pipe and a cylinder must have a sufficiently large diameter (at least 350-400 mm).

If necessary, you can make a similar potbelly stove in a horizontal design - you just need to slightly change its design. Otherwise, the assembly principle does not change.

The most efficient stove is a pyrolysis stove, which burns the remaining flammable gases and releases a large amount of heat compared to other stoves. There is no need to think that this will be a complex unit. Making a potbelly stove of this type will take you about 20 minutes longer than a conventional unit without pyrolysis. Let's see how it is produced.

A unit welded from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. Using thin iron does not make much sense - the stove will be too thin, the heat will bend it, and in the end it will be destroyed by corrosion. So find steel thick enough so that you don't have to make a new furnace every heating season.

We need to cut out seven pieces of metal (our iron thickness is 3 mm):

The main advantage of using sheet metal is that you can make a potbelly stove of any size and volume.

• Two pieces measuring 450x450 mm are the side walls;
• Four pieces measuring 450x250 mm are the front, rear, top and bottom walls;
• One piece measuring 440x240 mm will be the grate;
• Two pieces measuring 244x350 mm will be the internal partitions.

Thus, we will get a Loginov stove, which has two internal partitions to increase efficiency. These same partitions will be responsible for pyrolysis.

We make two doors in the front wall - in accordance with the instructions described above. Next, we weld all the pieces into a metal box without a top lid. The next stage is making the grate. To do this, we take a metal sheet and make many holes in it with a diameter of 10-15 mm. We fix the grate at a height of 80 mm from the bottom of the stove. Next, we weld the partitions, placing them at a height of 60 and 120 mm from the top cover.

We make a couple of small holes on the back surface and weld thin metal tubes (10-15 mm in diameter) into them. They should be located above the lower partition, extending to the front wall. Their length is about 150 mm - secondary air will be sucked through them. The tubes are welded before securing the second partition.

We prepare the top cover - we cut a hole in it with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. If necessary, we supplement the wood-burning stove with a cooking hole. We weld the lid to our stove - everything is ready! Now we install the stove in its regular place and begin testing. And yes, don’t forget to attach legs to it or install it on a non-combustible base (for example, made of brick).

The height of the chimney for potbelly stoves is at least one meter. The optimal indicator is 1.5-2 meters from the horizontal outlet or top cover.

Modernization of potbelly stoves

Now you know how to properly make a potbelly stove so that it can be used to heat a country house, garage or utility room. But we need the furnace to be efficient - to provide maximum energy while burning a minimum of fuel. You will be surprised, but we have already considered one possible modernization option - the pyrolysis unit presented above is an improved option. Take out the partitions from there, and you will get the most banal stove-stove.

The choice of chimney pipes should be approached with special attention - pipes that are too thin or poorly welded will quickly burn out, which will lead to smoke in the room.

Not only pyrolysis will help increase the efficiency of the stove. If you look at the drawing of the potbelly stove given above (made of sheet metal), you will notice that the unit is covered on three sides with metal sheets. They are spaced 50 mm from the body and play a protective role. But that’s not all - a draft is formed in the internal space, a convection process occurs. Thanks to this, the efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

The next stage of modernization is the creation of a chimney bend. The thing is that a gigantic amount of heat escapes through it into the atmosphere. By increasing the length of the chimney using a horizontal section, we can use it to heat the room. The disadvantage of this approach is the deposition of soot on a horizontal area.

It is difficult to find a person who does not know what a potbelly stove is. This metal stove saved more than one generation from the cold and remains in demand to this day. This stove also has some disadvantages - rapid heat transfer. V. Loginov tried to increase the efficiency and improve the design. His undertakings were picked up by the reader of the magazine “SAM” N. Pyankov, both models are described in this article.

In 1996, the magazine "SAM" published a drawing of a modified potbelly stove with increased efficiency. V. Loginov replaced the ash pan door with an adjustable blower and achieved a significant increase in efficiency. Such a potbelly stove can burn on one load of wood for up to 10-12 hours. After publication in the magazine, craftsmen began to improve Loginov’s design. Thus, N. Pyankov left the original dimensions of the furnace, but added a grate to the design and separated the combustion chamber with two metal plates to increase the path of burning gases.

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Design and principle of operation

What is the difference between the Loginov Potbelly stove and other metal stoves? The point is the L-shaped blower. The ash pan door is replaced with pipes welded perpendicularly. The edge of the horizontal pipe is tightly welded, and the edge of the vertical pipe has a thread for a plug. There are holes made on the thread - by screwing the plug you can reduce the air flow, thereby regulating the combustion process.

Loginov's original potbelly stove

It is important to make a plug with a slight play, so that expansion of the metal when heated will not cause problems. A screen is welded to the sides and back on the stiffeners to increase efficiency. Without such screens, it is extremely uncomfortable to be near the stove - the temperature is too high and can cause burns. The firebox door is also threaded. A 200mm pipe serves as the firebox opening, and a plug with a handle 220mm in diameter is screwed onto this pipe.

You can see more details about Loginov’s potbelly stove in this video:

Modification

Model N. Pyankova differs in the presence of an additional combustion chamber. Unlike more complex designs of slow combustion stoves, the Pyankov potbelly stove is manufactured even faster, the model proposed by Loginov. It is enough to weld steel sheets 140-160 mm long to the back and front walls of the furnace at different distances from the top. The distance between the sheets should be 80mm. The grate is installed 80mm from the bottom. Pyankov moved Loginov’s firebox door to the top of the stove and began using it as a hob.

It will not be difficult for a good master to evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of the two drawings. If desired, you can make a new model of a potbelly stove using only these two developments, changing the rectangular shape to a round one.

An example of a homemade design (in this photo there is a modernized Pyankov stove), but there is practically no difference in the manufacturing process.

Scheme and drawing

Loginov's drawing is quite clear and accurate. If you have the necessary materials, recreating the design will not be difficult. Here is the diagram (sorry for the quality):

Scheme of Loginov's potbelly stove

For comparison, it is worth mentioning the Pyankov stove. This is the same rectangular potbelly stove, but supplemented with a grate and an additional combustion chamber. It is impossible to regulate combustion in this model; the author did not use Loginov’s blower.

Diagram of the Pyankov furnace

Dimensions

The dimensions of the potbelly stove are very compact. Dimensions of the combustion chamber without heat shields:

• width 250mm;
• height (without legs) 400mm;
• depth 450mm.

When calculating the final dimensions, you need to add 40-50mm to the depth and width. This is the thickness of the stiffeners with a sheet of metal. The height of the legs is chosen as desired; a metal corner is used. Pyankov in his modification increased the height by 50mm and reduced the width by 50mm. This is clearly visible in the diagram.

Advantages and disadvantages

The Loginov stove has its advantages and disadvantages:

Advantages

1. Increased efficiency. One load of fuel can heat a room for 10-12 hours, which is a very good indicator for a potbelly stove.
2. Ability to regulate combustion intensity. By screwing on the ash plug, it is easy to put out or rekindle the fire, and the ash does not spill out onto the floor.
3. Fire safety. The structure is completely closed, with the exception of small holes in the blower. Embers will not fall out of the ash pan, there are no sparks, the door is screwed tightly.
4. Easy to make. No additional cameras or complex parts, rectangular shape.
5. Availability of fuel. Firewood can be easily found everywhere, unlike a gas cylinder or gasoline.

Flaws:

• Difficult to clean. The absence of an ash pan door makes it difficult to clean the stove from cinders. For these purposes, it needs to be tilted and knocked out through the blower.

How to make a Loginov potbelly stove with your own hands?

Making a Loginov potbelly stove does not require special tools or materials. The master must be able to weld, cut and rivet metal, and strictly adhere to the diagram.

Tools

When working with metal you will need the following tools:

• Grinder for cutting metal.
• Welding machine and accompanying protective equipment.
• Gun for riveting metal.
• Tool for cutting threads of different diameters.
• Drill and drill bit for metal.

Materials

Materials for making a Loginov potbelly stove:

• Sheets of metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm, with a total area of ​​1.35 m2.
• Iron rods 45cm long – 6 pcs.
• 100mm pipe for chimney. The length depends on the height of the room.
• Pipe 80mm and 30mm for blower and outlet.
• 200mm pipe about 10cm long for the firebox door.
• Plug 220mm.
• The metal angle for the legs is about 1.2 meters, depending on the intended height of the structure.
• Rivets 6 pcs.

Step-by-step instruction

User manual

The most important condition for operation is good welding quality. Using chalk coating and kerosene, check for fistulas and defects. Be especially careful with the chimney seams. Load firewood into the combustion chamber, light the fire, close the door and regulate the process using the blower. To reduce the intensity of combustion, you need to screw on the blower; to put out the fire, just screw it on completely.

Heat emanating from metal at a temperature higher than that from brick or stone. To adjust the blower, always use a thick oven mitt, do it carefully and quickly. Clean the oven after it has cooled completely. If there are welding defects, operation is stopped and the defects are corrected. Carbon monoxide can cause death.

According to some reviews, this stove can smoke when the firebox door is opened. This occurs due to decreased cravings. The defect can be eliminated by increasing the diameter of the chimney pipe to 150mm and reducing its length. Slow burning stoves are popular among fishermen and tourists. By replacing a thick sheet of metal with light and thin stainless steel chimney pipes, they successfully use Loginov’s scheme for winter fishing and tourism. Welding is rarely used for such furnaces.

Price for finished products and used ones

Each city has its own workshops where potbelly stoves are made. There you can order a product of any design and metal thickness. The Loginov stove has not gone into mass production and it is extremely difficult to buy it ready-made. Industrial production achieves high efficiency by increasing combustion chambers and improving convection.

The finished products have good appearance, some models have vintage design, various colors. The price ranges from 3500 rubles to 10500 rubles. Used models are not much cheaper - the minimum price is 2900 rubles. You need to take into account the cost of the chimney, which is not included with the stove.

Conclusion

Loginov's design allows minimizing fuel costs. The model can be modified and improved, and is easy to manufacture. Making a potbelly stove yourself is much cheaper than buying a ready-made one, provided you have basic skills in working with metal. Pyankov’s scheme is no worse than Loginov’s and is a little simpler to manufacture - no threads or blower pipes.

For experienced craftsmen, there is the opportunity to turn a potbelly stove into an electric generator. This requires a Peltier element. It converts thermal energy into electricity. The integrated heating elements heat up and produce 12 volts DC with a power of 60 watts. This is not enough to fully provide electricity, but in conditions of winter fishing, army training grounds and dacha cooperatives without electrification, it will be very useful.

Loginov's potbelly stove is safer and more efficient in operation. Its compact dimensions allow it to be used in any area, and its low weight allows it to be installed even on very flimsy ceilings and joists. The disadvantage of the design is that it is difficult to clean - not everyone is able to lift and tilt a heavy metal stove. One day of work, and as a result, your own stove heating with a wide range of applications.

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For most people, the word “garage” is simply associated with a box for storing a car. However, there is a fairly large category of car owners for whom the garage is truly a “second home.” They are ready to spend all their free time there - fortunately, there will probably always be work here. In addition, garages have rightly acquired a strong reputation as a kind of “men’s club”, where the uninitiated, especially women, are not recommended to enter.

But it’s just that winter is trying to make adjustments to the active life of the garage - it’s extremely inconvenient to work in a frozen room, and just talking with friends is very uncomfortable. However, inventive craftsmen always find a way out - they install homemade stoves, constructing them themselves or using the advice of their comrades on how to make a potbelly stove for the garage.

Let us also make our contribution to this noble men's cause. The publication will discuss several ways to make a potbelly stove with your own hands.

Wood stoves made from scrap materials

The basic design of a simple potbelly stove operating on solid fuel is very simple. In essence, it is a thick-walled metal container divided into two main compartments.

Firewood or other fuel is placed in the top firebox, for which a loading door must be provided. The grate separates the firebox from the lower compartment, which is much smaller in size - the ash pan, which also often plays the role of an ash pit. It is also recommended to install an appropriate door through which the potbelly stove is regularly cleaned of ash. In addition, opening the door a certain width regulates the flow of air into the combustion chamber, and therefore the intensity of firewood combustion. A pipe is welded into the upper combustion chamber to drain combustion products into the chimney pipe.

Such a scheme gives scope for independent design of simple potbelly stoves, and a wide variety of materials or used items and devices are used as blanks. There is probably no need to teach real masters how to cook a potbelly stove for a garage - it’s probably better to just give a number of interesting ideas that can be taken as a basis and supplemented with your own modifications, based on existing capabilities and preferences.

1. One of the simplest options is a potbelly stove from an old metal barrel.

The design shown in the figure is simplified to the extreme. The master manufacturer decided to abandon the two separate doors, combining them into one common one. A metal frame is welded on top of the barrel, which allows you to lay a metal sheet on it, which becomes a kind of “hob” - you can, for example, heat water on it.

Potbelly stove made from a barrel - a simple design, but with a lot of disadvantages

The advantage of such a design is, perhaps, only one - simplicity and speed of production, accessible to almost everyone. There are many more disadvantages.

• Firstly, the barrel itself is not the best option for a potbelly stove - the walls are thin, their heat capacity is low, and they will not last long - they will quickly burn out.
• Secondly, it is quite difficult to regulate the intensity of combustion.
• Thirdly, the design is bulky and takes up a lot of space. You can, of course, think about a vertical arrangement, but the main problem is the thinness of the walls, thisAll equals not will eliminate
• And, fourthly, such a potbelly stove is very unsafe in terms of fire safety.

It is better to have such a stove not in the garage, but somewhere on the street, for waste disposal.

2. Something similar, with the same basic disadvantages, but more compact, can be made from standard 40 liter can.

The scale of work, including welding, is even smaller here. In fact, only the legs (3) and the chimney pipe (2) are welded to the body (1). The door is already ready - it remains standard, only two rows of holes (4) are drilled in it for air access. A homemade grate made of a metal rod is placed inside, conditionally dividing the can into two compartments - and the mini-potbelly stove is ready.

3. Very wide opportunities in the manufacture of garage stoves are provided by the use of old gas cylinders. These vessels have thick, greasy walls that can be easily welded and themselves have a good heat capacity.

The main difficulty is to properly prepare the cylinder for further work, since even with the neck removed, vapors of explosive concentrations may remain in it. You may come across advice to fill the container with water overnight, and then, after draining the liquid, start cutting it. However, as practice shows, this does not provide a complete guarantee of work safety. In this light, the following approach seems optimal:

• Bury the vertically placed cylinder in the ground so that it is securely fixed for cutting with a grinder.
• Fill it with water right up to the neck and let it sit for 2-3 hours.
• Draw a line marking the future around the circumference cutting.
• Start cutting along the marked line until a through hole appears. Water will begin to flow out. You must wait until its level drops to the cutting level, and then carefully continue working with the grinder and remove the cover completely.
• Now you can drain the water and continue further work - the cylinder will no longer pose any danger.

There are a lot of options for potbelly stoves made from cylinders.

— It is often made horizontally. The cylinder capacity itself is, in fact, a finished combustion chamber. Dividing it into two with this orientation is irrational; it is better to make it from sheet metal and weld a box-shaped ash pan with its own door.

In this case, the grate can be rows of holes drilled in the cylinder body:

If you find a real cast iron of the appropriate size, then you can do it differently - cut a window in the wall of the cylinder that will ensure a tight fit of this part:

Another option is a window for installing a regular cast iron grate

You can make the firebox door yourself, using a fragment cut out for the firebox window, or you can weld a finished part, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

The structure is installed on welded pipes or leg corners at a height convenient for use. A pipe for connection to the chimney is cut into the rear part.

— In order to save garage space, the cylinder can be placed vertically. In this case, it is divided into two chambers, welding brackets inside, onto which a homemade round grate made of a steel rod with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm is placed. Two two parts are made - the furnace and the blower.

The upper cut part can be drowned out - in this case a kind of cooking surface will appear. Another option is to purchase a cast iron cauldron of the required diameter, which will fit exactly as a “plug” and turn into a container for heating water or even for preparing a variety of dishes.

An original solution - instead of a top lid, a well-fitted cauldron is used

To allow combustion products to exit from the rear, a standard 90-degree outlet with a diameter of 100 or 110 mm is welded in, and then the vertical part of the chimney is connected to it.

Another craftsman offers an original design. As a finished part for the potbelly stove, he used an air tank-receiver from the brake system of a truck.

The master did not install ordinary doors. For the blower, a pipe is welded in, equipped with an adjustable damper that limits the flow of air. There is also no loading hatch on the side wall of the potbelly stove - it uses the principle of top loading of solid fuel. The top cover is hinged and equipped with an arched handle for convenience.

The internal space of the cylinder into the firebox and ash pan is divided by a homemade grate:

The design itself is simple to manufacture, but during operation it requires caution when adding firewood. In addition, the process of cleaning such a potbelly stove from accumulated ash will also not be entirely convenient.

Potbelly stoves of a similar design can also be made from scraps of thick-walled pipes with a diameter of 300 - 500 mm.

4. Steel sheet- an excellent material, a potbelly stove can be made from it with your own hands, drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet.

As an example, you can give a drawing of an efficient solid fuel stove, which will require sheet metal with a thickness of at least 4 mm (thinner walls will simply burn out quickly).

The drawing below shows all the dimensions, and it will be easy for any craftsman to cut in the parts necessary for the work. The main “highlight” of this design is the presence of two partitions (1). They create a kind of labyrinth for the release of combustion products, which do not immediately fly away into the chimney pipe, but provide maximum heat transfer from the potbelly stove.

A metal plate (2) with rows of drilled holes with a diameter of 12 - 15 mm is used as a grate.

It is advisable to “dress” the potbelly stove in a metal casing, using sheet metal 2 mm thick for it. The plates (3) are cut to the dimensions of the side and rear walls and attached to the stove body either on threaded posts or using 50 mm long bushings (4).

Such an addition to the design of the potbelly stove will solve three problems at once:

• The likelihood of accidental burns from the hot walls of the stove will be reduced.
• The impact of hard infrared radiation from it, which is not always pleasant and necessary, will be reduced.
• The resulting gap of 50 mm between the walls of the potbelly stove and the screens will create a powerful convection flow of heated air, thanks to which the garage will be heated quickly and evenly.

These are not all possible options for solid fuel garage stoves. and detailed technology for their manufacture can be found on other pages of our portal dedicated to this issue.

Video: homemade stove for a garage made of sheet metal

Now, it probably makes sense to take a closer look at the design of the stove, which uses such common in garages, almost “waste” material, like used motor oil.

Find out and also study the step-by-step process, understandable even for beginners, from our new article.

How to make a potbelly stove during mining

In fact, having a supply of firewood in the garage to fire a potbelly stove is not always convenient. But work is almost always available or it’s easy to find. This becomes especially true in large garage cooperatives, where they often install special containers for draining old oil, or in auto repair shops. So why not take advantage of the opportunity to use virtually free fuel for heating?

The design of such stoves and their layout can also be very diverse - from compact potbelly stoves designed for a small room to large and bulky devices with high heat transfer, capable of heating large areas.

However, the operating principle and basic design elements are similar for all of them. They consist of two containers. The lower one is intended for filling with used oil - there it is superficially ignited and brought to a boil. Oil vapor rise up through a pipe with perforation for oxygen access. Here the process of afterburning the rising vapors begins, and their final oxidation and combustion takes place in the upper chamber, which is already connected to the chimney system.

If you look at a photograph of a working one, the temperature distribution in this heating device is very clearly visible from the intensity of the infrared radiation spots. The lower container with oil does not heat up much: the light spot is only a visible area of ​​​​an open flame on the surface of the burning oil. The main afterburning begins in the upper third of the vertical perforated pipe, and the temperature reaches its peak values ​​in the upper chamber - even its thick-walled body literally becomes red hot. It is this part of the stove that provides maximum heat exchange with the air in the room.

It is necessary to know the operating principle of such a stove. This will help you correctly determine the materials necessary for its manufacture - obviously, the most heat-resistant parts should be the parts of the vertical pipe and the upper chamber.

Below are drawings of a do-it-yourself potbelly stove that works according to this scheme. Almost all dimensions are indicated in them, but still, in order to manufacture such a heating device, it is necessary to give a number of explanations by examining this process in more detail.

So, the work on making such a stove begins with the selection of materials. First of all, you need to have two pieces of pipe for the housings of the lower and upper chambers (items 2 and 8). The drawing indicates a diameter of 352 mm and 344 mm, but such a standard simply does not exist. It is easier to change the data a little and use pipe scraps of 355.6 × 6 or 325 × 6 mm.

The thickness of the steel sheets used for the manufacture of other parts is 4 mm, with the exception of the top cover (item 10) and partition (item 9), which require metal 6 mm thick.

For a vertical chamber, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of at least 4 - 5 mm is used. The same pipe will be required for the chimney pipe.

The process can begin with the manufacture of the lower chamber. To do this, a bottom cut around the circumference (item 1) is welded to a piece of 355 mm pipe with a height of 115 mm (item 2). All seams in the stove structure must be absolutely sealed.

The top of this container must be removable. This means that it is necessary to have a cylinder (item 3) that would fit tightly, almost without a gap, onto the lower one. It will not be possible to select it according to standard pipe sizes, which means you will have to make it yourself. A metal strip 60 mm wide is cut, which, by heating with a gas burner and using clamps, is bent around the body of the lower container, and then welded with a vertical seam.

Now, using the resulting ring, you can accurately measure and cut out the cover for it (item 4). Two holes are immediately cut out on it - a central one, Ø 100 mm (item 4.1) for welding in a vertical perforated pipe, and one offset to the edge, Ø 60 mm - it will be used for refueling, ignition and adjusting the flow of primary air for oil combustion. A sliding cover (pos. 4.3) is being prepared, which will be secured in the hole (pos. 4.4) using a rivet or bolt (pos. 4.5).

Then the finished lid is welded to the ring.

A piece of pipe 100 × 5 mm with a length of 360 mm is marked for drilling holes in it. The top row should be 55 mm from the edge, the bottom row should be 20 mm. It is necessary to place 6 rows of 8 holes each evenly, so that they are staggered. The diameter of the holes is 9 mm. Both ends of the pipe are immediately chamfered for further welding during the assembly process.

The next step is to install the upper chamber. To begin with, prepare two covers that have the same dimensions, but differ in metal thickness - the bottom (item 7) is 4 mm, and the top (item 10) is 6 mm. A hole Ø 100 mm is cut in each of them - so, as shown in the drawing. The diameter of these covers must, of course, exactly match the diameter of the thick-walled pipe used, from which a 100 mm high cylinder is cut (item 8).

It is immediately necessary to prepare a jumper (item 9), which will serve for more complete combustion of rising vapors, preventing them from quickly escaping into the chimney pipe, thereby creating an additional afterburning chamber.

Assembly begins by welding the upper, thicker cover to the cylinder.

After the sealed seam is completed, a jumper is installed with its maximum displacement towards the smoke outlet and welded on three sides.

Now you can weld the bottom cover. Its hole should be located strictly diametrically to the upper one.

Very accurately checking the square, achieving perpendicularity in all planes, install, grab, and then weld the perforated pipe to the bottom cover.

Then you can weld the chimney pipe (pos. 11) to the corresponding hole in the top cover.

Welded chimney pipe

From the opposite end of the perforated pipe, also maintaining perpendicularity, the lid of the lower fuel tank is welded.

This O-ring is then welded to the bottom of the "pan".

... and its fixation to the walls of the “pan”

In fact, all that remains is to weld the legs (item 6) and the stove can be considered ready. For greater stability of the stove, you can weld a stand (III in the diagram), which will add rigidity to the structure.

If desired, after cleaning, you can coat it with heat-resistant paint and safely use it.

You can refill it through the neck of the lower container, but this can be done safely only when the previously filled oil has completely burned out. To avoid such inconveniences during operation, it is recommended to supplement such a potbelly stove during testing with another “option” - a device for monitoring the oil level in the combustion chamber and safe refueling during operation.

To do this, you will have to make another open container, approximately the same height as the lower “pan”. The shape of this vessel is not particularly important. Both of these containers will be located on a common stand made of two parallel metal corners.

Both containers are welded to the guides - corners...

Holes of the same diameter are cut in the bottom of both containers and connected by a curved tube.

... and connected by a tube

So, we got two communicating vessels. According to the laws of physics, the liquid level in both is always the same. Thus, the owner of the stove always sees the level of waste oil remaining in the combustion chamber, and can, without any problems, replenish the fuel supply by pouring it into an open container.

True, in order to ensure greater safety, it is better to also provide a protective screen that will cover the open vessel from the direct thermal radiation of the combustion chamber.

Now we can say with complete confidence that I’m ready. All that remains is to install it in place, connect it to the chimney pipe, fill it with fuel and carry out a test ignition.

For ignition, liquid for fireplaces (stoves) is usually used; about 100 ml is poured over the oil into the filler neck. A lit wick and a rag or paper soaked in the same liquid are lowered there. Surface combustion should begin, which in a few minutes will lead to boiling of the oil, the formation of vapors and the transition of the entire potbelly stove to its “normal” operating mode - this is usually accompanied by a characteristic hum.

In the model under consideration, ready-made parts were used - cuttings of thick-walled pipes. If they could not be found, then the very same stove can be made from a steel sheet, with box-shaped refueling and afterburning chambers, simply observing certain proportions of their volume in relation to the parallelepiped. The efficiency of the stove will not suffer at all from this. The thickness of the material used is the same, 4 and 6 mm.

Video: stove in operation with box-type chambers

Prices for popular models of welding machines

Welders

What should those garage owners do who already have a conventional stove that runs on solid fuel, but are interested in the possibility of using waste oil as fuel? It's okay - and there is an acceptable way out for them. You can make a special “attachment” that will make the potbelly stove universal.

This “attachment” can turn an ordinary potbelly stove into one that runs on waste oil.

In fact, this is the lower capacity of the stove for exhaust, also with a perforated pipe, but only bent at an angle of 90 degrees (by welding a standard outlet).

She's from a different angle

But instead of a final combustion chamber, an ordinary wood-burning stove is used, into which this curved pipe is connected using an adaptation device. For example, in a regular potbelly stove, the firebox door can be made removable and replaceable. One, regular one, will be installed using firewood, and the other, having the corresponding hole for pipe insertion –at using the “attachment” during practice.

In this case, a round plug with a hole for the pipe inlet is used as an “adapter”. The standard firebox door is simply folded to the side

Another option is to weld the pipe on the side, into the wall of the potbelly stove - then the stove will turn out to be universal. You just have to provide a damper so that when using firewood, the flame does not spread, and the ash from the firebox does not fall into the perforated pipe and container with oil.

Advantages and disadvantages of potbelly stoves during development

To ensure that the operation of a potbelly stove during mining does not cause much trouble, you need to know its features, advantages and disadvantages, which must be taken into account when using it.

The advantages include the following qualities:

• The stove is unpretentious and does not require intervention in its operation - the main thing is to correctly adjust the air gap on the filler neck (usually 10 - 15 mm). It has good heat dissipation and can quickly heat a closed room.
• When used correctly, such a potbelly stove does not smoke and no fumes are released from the chimney pipe.
• The furnace, to a certain extent, can be considered fireproof in the sense that the fuel (exhaust) itself never burns under normal conditions, and only the afterburning of the vapors it produces occurs in the chamber.

However, such a scheme has many disadvantages:

• We have already mentioned the noisy operation of the stove. In addition, you cannot get rid of the characteristic smell. However, for garage conditions this should not matter much. Sometimes masters find another solution to a similar problem. For example, an additional air heat exchanger is installed on the upper chamber, through which air is driven using a fan to heat the adjacent room.

• Both the combustion chamber (perforated pipe) and the chimney quickly become overgrown with deposits of combustion products and require frequent preventative cleaning.
• Burning oil in the lower chamber always leaves a coked layer, which is quite difficult to clean.

Video - Stove being worked on

During operation of the stove, a number of mandatory rules must be observed:

• The use of waste oil with flammable impurities, such as gasoline, is not allowed. The waste must be filtered so that it does not contain suspended solids.
• Working with water is also dangerous - this can lead to boiling of the liquid and splashing of the oil, possibly igniting it. Collection of waste for further use as fuel must be carried out under conditions that prevent the ingress of water.
• Under no circumstances should such a stove be placed in a strong draft - this may cause the flame to spread to surrounding objects. There should never be any flammable substances or materials around the stove. Reliable thermal insulation of the walls of the room is required.
• The room must have reliable ventilation, since the operation of the stove is associated with intense absorption of air oxygen and the release of carbon monoxide, which is dangerous to health and life.
• It is strictly forbidden to use any other flammable liquids as fuel - this may result in an explosion in the upper chamber or chimney pipe.
• You should never leave such a potbelly stove unattended. It is strictly forbidden to go to bed in a room with a working stove. Before leaving, you should make sure that the oil has completely burned out and that the process of burning off its vapors has completed.
• It is forbidden to pour water on the stove to cool it, or use water to extinguish the fire - this will only aggravate the dangerous situation.
• The stove should not have horizontal sections. An inclined section is allowed to change direction at an angle of 45 degrees. The minimum length of the chimney pipe should be 4 m, and the recommended length is from 5 to 7 m.
• The recommended filling level when initially filling the stove is up to ⅔ of the volume of the lower container.
• When using such a stove in a garage, there must be a powder fire extinguisher or a box of sand near it.

So, probably anyone who has solid plumbing skills can make a potbelly stove for the garage. It is enough to show your imagination or use the drawings of ready-made designs - and everything should work out. The main thing, both in the manufacture and in the operation of such stoves, is to constantly observe basic safety measures so that the heating device does not cause a big disaster.

Despite the presence of a large number of new types of heating devices used to heat rooms, traditional “potbelly stoves” are gradually becoming a thing of the past. But in some cases, these voracious and massive heat sources are not suitable for heating houses where people temporarily live.

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Why modernize?

The potbelly stove is a very simple heating device, although today it is deeply modernized. Such a stove, which has become a favorite solution for heating small country houses, can have not only a single-chamber, but also a two-chamber design. A modernized potbelly stove can provide heat even to houses where residents live permanently.

The simplicity of design and manufacture makes it accessible to purchase and use. In addition, a significant advantage for the construction of such a structure is the absence of a foundation. But, despite so many positive properties, the potbelly stove also has significant disadvantages:

1. Its efficiency is quite small, the simplicity of the design carries with it an inherent drawback - a huge part of the heat from the potbelly stove “flies into the chimney”.
2. To work with such a stove, strict safety requirements must be observed, since falling combustion elements can damage nearby premises and even lead to a fire.
3. To heat a room with a potbelly stove, it is necessary to consume a significant amount of fuel elements, which is due to the fact that this type of heating is used only for short-term operation.

But this is not a reason to be discouraged, our “Kulibins” have found several simple ones over the years, but... In this article we will look at the modernization of the stove design itself.

Modernization methods

The design features of the stove do not allow for major changes, of course, unless you decide to make a small home nuclear reactor out of it, but all the proposed improvements are aimed at only one thing - heat preservation. During operation, the stove easily loses heat through the pipe; the thinness of the walls quickly transfers it, but does not allow it to be stored for a long time. The direct-flow furnace consumes a large amount of fuel, and its properties are aimed at consuming charcoal raw materials.

To modernize and increase efficiency, it is to obtain the greatest amount of heat with the same fuel combustion.

There are four main and simple methods for upgrading a potbelly stove, the use of which will significantly reduce heat loss:

1. Attaching 2 tanks welded together from a washing machine.
2. Making an ash pit.
3. Grid with stones.

Let's take a closer look at them.

Washing machine tubs

Many have noticed that when the stove is burning, sheaves of sparks often fly out of the chimney. This means that the fuel did not burn out completely and left the working chamber, taking with it most of the thermal energy. So, one of the first ways to improve a potbelly stove is to create a working chamber where small coals will burn out and heat will be retained.

A common way of such an improvement is to install two tanks from washing machines welded together, which will represent a kind of car muffler.

Materials and tools

To make this structure we will need:

Instructions

To properly attach 2 tanks from a washing machine welded together, you must follow a simple guide:

1. First, you need to weld two washing machine tanks together so that after welding they form a single container resembling a large cylinder.
2. After welding, clean the weld seams and bring the single tank to a marketable condition.
3. The next step is to make one hole at opposite ends of the tank, the size matching the diameter of the furnace outlet pipes. Carefully clean out the holes made.
4. Insert the outlet pipe elbow into these holes, but so that inside the tank the pipes are at different levels, as if overlapping each other.
5. Seal one connection between the pipe and the tank and clean it. Make the second hole in such a way that it fits tightly around the pipe, which will be directly inserted into the potbelly stove. There is no need to weld the second hole, as it will later be useful for removing carbon deposits inside the tank.

Upgrade with washing machine tanks

This simple improvement will allow you to retain a large amount of heat, which previously simply flew away into the chimney.

Making an ash pit

An ash pan is a grate near a potbelly stove, on which fuel will subsequently be placed to heat the room.

A good ash pan provides the combustion chamber with a sufficient amount of air (that is, oxygen), and also provides good draft, thereby ensuring better combustion. In most cases, ash pans in potbelly stoves leave “much to be desired,” so upgrading the ash pan will help improve the performance of the potbelly stove.

An effective ash pit should be made of heat-resistant material and have a door, thanks to which you can avoid smoke in the room. Improving the ash pan will help turn an ordinary potbelly stove into something like a fireplace.

Materials and tools

• a metal sheet,
• fittings,
• welding machine,
• metal working tool,
• ash door.

Instructions

Making an ash pan yourself will require certain skills from you, and the production must be in accordance with the instructions:

This design will give better and more uniform operation of the potbelly stove.

Grid with stones

Modernizing a potbelly stove with a mesh with stones is quite one of the most common improvements. Almost everyone had a bath and steamed in the steam room. There you saw a set of stones that warm the air in the steam room.

The principle of this modernization method is similar. It is necessary to line the potbelly stove with stones, which continue to retain heat for a long time. It is worth remembering that you should not use galvanized material for manufacturing, since when heated, toxic fumes are released into the air.

Materials and tools

For this event we will need:

• a set of good stones (you can use high-quality clay bricks), preferably of medium size, similar to those you came across in the steam room.
• dense metal net, you can use a chain-link net.
• if you plan to do it like an adult, then you will need fittings and a welding machine.

Instructions

Making this improvement is simple:

You can also fill the cavities between the stones with clean clay, which will also help retain heat.

Precautionary measures

It is strictly forbidden to use flammable materials and metals with low melting points to create this improvement. Also, this structure should ensure free maintenance of the potbelly stove, not block access to the firebox, to the ash pan, and not interfere with the removal and replacement of outlet pipes.

Increasing the number of pipe bends

Increasing the bends of the potbelly stove chimney

The tank at the outlet of washing machines will retain a certain amount of heat, but it will not be able to retain all the heat. A large amount of heat will continue to escape into the chimney.

Therefore, one of the improvements that provides additional heat retention is to increase the length of the outlet pipe. A long pipe running through the room, but with good exhaust, ensures the transfer of heat from its surface, which was previously lost.

Materials and tools

• several elbows that can be easily placed in the room after the potbelly stove,
• brackets for fastening pipe elbows,
• welding machine and metal processing tools.

Instructions

1. First you need to mark the location of the pipe. It can pass with a large number of bends and zigzags, thereby ensuring maximum heat retention, without forgetting about the loss of exhaust draft.
2. After marking the pipe laying location, it is necessary to install the pipe mounting brackets. Particular attention should be paid to the joints of pipe elbows and corners. Brackets must be made of heat-resistant materials.
3. Lay the pipes to ensure a tight, hermetically sealed connection, and, if necessary, modify the elbows to ensure the pipe is laid along the marked route.
4. Firmly secure the elbows in the brackets, check the working draft (burn newspaper in front of the pipe), check the tightness of the connections, connect the inlet elbow to the stove.

Conclusion

A potbelly stove is one of the most reliable and common helpers for both summer residents and owners of garages or utility rooms and change houses. Moreover, you can not only purchase it, but also make it yourself. Manufacturing does not require any complex and hard-to-find materials, as well as very specific skills.

To improve the potbelly stove, we considered several types of modifications: attaching 2 tanks from a washing machine welded together; making an ash pit; mesh with stones; increasing the number of pipe bends. These improvements will increase heat retention and improve the operation of the stove.

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A potbelly stove is a simple but very effective stove that can be used to heat country houses, garages, various buildings under construction and other places. It is an excellent temporary alternative to a full-fledged heating system. To make a potbelly stove, you can use various materials and available tools.

The work of making a potbelly stove yourself begins with choosing the type of design. The stove can have a round or rectangular cross-section. Even an old can for water, milk and other liquids is suitable for assembling such a unit.

No expensive materials or hard-to-find tools are required. Everything you need can be found in the shed or purchased at a hardware store.

Tools and materials for assembling a potbelly stove

1. Can.
2. Metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
3. Hammer.
4. Chisel.
5. Smoke exhaust pipe.
6. File.

To assemble some models of potbelly stove, you will need a welding machine, but if you really want, everything can be done without welding. The advantage of using a welding machine is that it can provide higher reliability and rigidity of the structure. Recommendations for any specific sizes are not given, because... in the case of homemade potbelly stoves, everything is selected individually. When choosing the sizes of additional units, be guided by the dimensions of the main container.

First of all, you need to prepare the blower. Take your can and make a hole in it. It should be arranged just below the level of the neck. The cut hole should be shaped into a regular rectangle. To do this, take a file and carefully sand the edges of the resulting connector.

The next hole must be prepared in the bottom of the can. It must be of such a diameter that in the future the pipe for removing combustion products enters it with sufficiently great effort. Determining the appropriate size is extremely simple. Prepare markings in the area where the chimney is installed. Mark a hole approximately 15-20 mm smaller than the diameter of the chimney pipe. Next, you will need to arm yourself with a chisel and an ordinary hammer. With these simple tools you can knock out the hole you need. In the end, all that remains is to level it with a file.

Take the chimney pipe and try to fit it into the prepared connector. If the chimney does not go through, you will have to work with the file for some time. However, there is no need to be too zealous either. The chimney, as already noted, must fit into the connector with sufficiently great effort.

Take a metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm and try to bend it like a snake. In the future you will use this snake as a grate. The prepared lattice must be bent so that it can be positioned normally in the neck. At the end, all that remains is to align the grate in the container, and the homemade stove will be ready.

Experts recommend installing such stoves on special stands. This is more reliable and safe. Additionally, the design of a homemade potbelly stove can be improved by installing a damper on the ash pan. It will allow you to regulate the intensity of traction, fuel consumption and heating level.

Thus, a basic potbelly stove can be assembled even from an old can. No expensive special equipment is required for this work. At the end, all that remains is to place the stove in a suitable place and connect the chimney pipe. A homemade stove will provide high-quality room heating until you decide to install a more functional and productive system.

In this case, you cannot do without a welding machine. The function of the basis of the structure will be performed by a section of an ordinary metal pipe. Even an old barrel will do. Assembly will be carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Make a grate from the rods and fasten it to the body. The connection is made by welding . This potbelly stove will have 2 dampers at once: a blower and a firebox. The model can be successfully used both for heating various rooms and for preparing a variety of food.

Potbelly stoves are valued precisely because they are able to warm up a room in the shortest possible time. But at the same time there arises the main disadvantage of such stoves is that after combustion stops they cool down as quickly as they heat up. Metal practically does not accumulate heat.

To eliminate the above drawback, it is enough to cover a homemade potbelly stove with refractory bricks. It accumulates heat well and continues to release it to the surrounding area for a long time after the stove has stopped operating. However, in order for the room to warm up, the stove will have to be heated longer than without such a brick fence. But this drawback can be easily eliminated. It is enough just to make a few ventilation holes in the brick screen. Such systems are quite often used in baths.

The brick screen is laid out at some distance from the walls of the unit. This is a very important point. When choosing a suitable distance, you should focus on the area of ​​the heated room and the dimensions of the stove itself.

A potbelly stove, fenced with a brick screen, will use fuel as efficiently as possible and efficiently heat the room for a very long time.

The brick screen in question, as already noted, eliminates the furnace from its main drawback, which is extremely rapid cooling. You turn off the stove, but it will continue to provide heat. However, the design of such a screen must take into account a number of important rules and requirements.

Typically, the laying is done at a distance of about 15 cm from the body of the heating unit. Ventilation holes are created at the bottom and top of the brick screen, thanks to which air can circulate inside the structure. As a result, efficient heating will be organized with the most rational fuel consumption. Warm air will be able to escape into the heated room, and cold air entering its place will cool the stove body, protecting its walls from excessive heating and burnout.

In some situations, the masonry is done without a gap between the stove body and the screen, or the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern. This is a completely wrong approach; it is better not to consider it at all. If there is no gap, the heating efficiency will noticeably decrease. Excess heat will simply evaporate into the chimney. The disadvantage of “checkerboard” masonry is that in such conditions the air does not have the opportunity to circulate normally.

The total screen area is much smaller than in the case of solid masonry, which is why the oven will cool down very quickly. The total heat loss will be about 50%. The room, of course, will warm up quickly, but it will also cool down just as quickly. And in this case, is there any point in arranging such a screen at all?

If you are very limited in money, you can not buy a new brick, but make a screen from broken and used products. This is not a fundamental point. But if the potbelly stove will be used as a constant source of heat, it is better to allocate money and do everything conscientiously.

Improved model of potbelly stove

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - professionally drawn up diagram

If desired, you can slightly improve the design of the potbelly stove and obtain a more productive and efficient heating unit. To do this, you just need to prepare a certain amount of sheet metal or several boxes from the same material. As a result, you will get a rectangular stove with a more aesthetic appearance.

The design must include smoke vents. They will significantly reduce the cost of heating materials. It is also recommended to install control dampers. Thanks to them, you can change traction and control fuel consumption as much as possible.

The assembly of the structure is carried out in the same order as in the previous instructions. The only differences are in the shape of the body. Otherwise, the structure is assembled, equipped and used in a similar manner.

Thus, this unit received its historical name completely undeservedly. With proper assembly, no excessive fuel consumption is observed. Such a simple but very effective stove began to be called a “potbelly stove” simply because of an erroneous interpretation. However, in order for the unit to fully realize its potential, you need to choose the right place for its installation and adhere to certain recommendations during operation.

Recommendations for placing and using a homemade stove

The installation and use of the oven must be carried out in accordance with the technology established and tested by many users. If the potbelly stove is installed in a wooden house, the minimum permissible distance between it and the nearest walls will be 100 cm. Safety precautions require the installation of a smoke exhaust pipe. Sections cannot be extended; the pipe must be continuous and integral.

In certain situations, it is impossible to solve the problem of smoke removal without extending pipes. Craftsmen found a completely safe and effective solution to this problem. The main thing is that the sections fit together as tightly as possible. The lower part is inserted into the above section, and nothing else.

If the pipe goes outside through a wall, the point of contact between the objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier. Typically, brick is used for its arrangement. You should refrain from using concrete because... it loses its strength with temperature changes.

If the pipe goes outside through a wall, the place where the objects come into contact must be equipped with a thermal barrier

If desired, the potbelly stove can be further refined with the help of various accessories, for example, devices for convenient fuel storage. In accordance with safety precautions, fuel must also be stored away from the stove body. This distance must be at least 1 m.

A properly assembled potbelly stove can heat a room in just 15-20 minutes. If desired, it can be decorated and turned into a wonderful addition to the interior of the room, making it a full-fledged constant source of heat. Follow the recommendations received and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself potbelly stove