Scheme of laying sewerage in a private house. Installation of internal and external sewerage systems in a private house. The easiest way to make a septic tank

For a comfortable life in a modern private home, it is simply necessary to have amenities. In this, the main role is given to proper sewerage. Making it with your own hands is not easy, but it is possible. To do this you need to have some knowledge.

Sewer installation should begin by drawing up a design for internal and external systems for the removal of wastewater.

Scheme of the internal sewer system

This system must be thought through before the construction of the house begins, at the design stage. The first thing you need to know is how big the container will be where all the waste received for recycling will be processed.

The average volume is from 200 to 250 liters. The next step is to decide on the type of sewage system. According to the rules for building houses, all rooms with high humidity should be located in one corner or on top of each other. For example:

Basic rules for organizing internal sewerage

1. No other equipment should be connected to the sewer pipe between the toilet and the riser. This is due to the fact that during flushing, water will be sucked out of all siphons connected to the system. This is why the toilet must be connected to the riser with a separate connection.
2. In order to better clean sewer pipes, their slope should be from 2 to 15 degrees, this corresponds to 2-15 centimeters per meter of length.
3. You should definitely take care of the ventilation of the risers. Without it, an unpleasant odor will appear after a while. In addition, this will lead to the emptying of siphons and the appearance of air pockets in the pipes, preventing the drainage of water. Ventilation should take place separately from the general natural exhaust channel of the house. In order for the ventilation of the risers to work properly, it must be installed half a meter above the roof. A sewer aerator is perfect for this purpose;
4. Sanitary fixtures located on the same floor must be connected to the riser above the toilet connection point. If the fixtures are lower, dirty water will get into them when the toilet is flushed.
5. The riser must have a diameter of 10 centimeters (if a toilet is not connected to it, then it is possible to use a pipe from 5 centimeters).
6. The riser must be soundproofed. To do this, it can be covered with plasterboard, placed in a wall niche or covered with mineral wool.
7. Pipe bends should be made smooth, 30-60 degrees. It is strongly recommended to avoid 90 degree turns.
8. Each riser must have an inspection hatch at the bottom.
9. All sanitary fixtures, except the toilet, can be connected to a common pipe for discharging water into the sewer.
10. It is important to install the outdoor pipe below freezing point. In addition, it needs to be insulated. An inspection well is installed for it next to the house. To prevent flooding, a sewer check valve is installed in the pipe. General tips for sewer design

To properly design a sewer system, it is important to take into account the location of the house and calculate the distance to the proposed cesspool.

• The best option would be 5-10 meters.
• You also need to keep in mind that the law provides for the installation of a septic tank at a distance of 4 meters from the neighbor’s property.
• If you build a cesspool too close to your own home, this can lead to the destruction of the foundation. If you make a cesspool further than 10 meters from the house, this will cause blockages and other problems in the sewer system.

Important: when drawing up a sewerage diagram, you need to take into account the location of the collector pipe and riser, the topography of the site, its area and soil composition.

It will be necessary to order the preparation axonometric scheme systems, which will help identify and solve installation difficulties. You need to think about turns, pipe sizes, junctions, connections, angles of inclination and elevation.

All risers in the house must be discharged into the central sewer system. In cases where this cannot be done, you need to:

• Set up local treatment facilities near your home. The wastewater will be discharged into the ground. This option is expensive to construct, but cost-effective.
• Water must be drained into a septic tank, and waste must be periodically pumped out and removed. This method will not require large installation costs, but during operation it will cost a pretty penny.

Effluents are cleaned in several ways:

• Aerobic devices-septic tanks- special bacteria that purify wastewater during their life processes. This method is also called septic tanks without pumping.
• Treatment ground structures— equipped with a filter and drainage through the soil layer. Here it is important to take into account the composition of the soil (soil made from sandy loam and sand showed itself to be a good filt, and soil made from clay and loam - according to chemical indicators). This method is suitable for economy class houses.

If up to 1 m3 (the norm for 4 permanent residents in a house) of wastewater is produced per day, then you can arrange filtration well, if more than 1 m 3, then - drainage well.

Design of a sewer system with a filter well

This sewerage option is suitable for areas where it is possible to place a well at a distance of more than 30 metrov wells, the distance from the house and the fence should be at least 2 m, from large bushes and trees - 3 m. Also, the soil must have high filtering properties, so you can use any type of soil except clay. In addition, groundwater must flow at a depth of 1.5 m, that is, be lower than the drainage level.

Local sewerage project, subject to installation in the ground with low filtration rates and high groundwater flow:

• As a result, accumulates in the well warm purified water, which can be used for watering or simply drained in a convenient place.

Design of a treatment system in sandy soil

• This option is designed for low water levels in the ground, where treated wastewaterpours straight into the water. Crushed stone is needed only to improve the efficiency of the entire system (if absorption is good, then you don’t need to use it). The outlet pipe goes below the freezing point and must be insulated.

External sewerage project with gravity drainage organization

• Most economical option. Due to the absence of pumps, wells and other additions, the cost is reduced to a minimum. This option can be used if the terrain allows and the distance is short.

Design of sewerage with drainage system

This version of the sewerage system is easy and easy to design and install yourself, and it convenient to use. Example project:

The system has a cesspool, with its own installation rules. The septic tank is placed next to the house so that the water entering it does not have time to cool. Under influence increased temperaturedrainsare intensifying decomposition processes waste. If the septic tank is sealed, then it can be installed even in the basement of the house.

Important condition: it is necessary to have a hood through the sewer riser.

In addition, there are leaky cesspools. They must be located at a distance of more than 5 meters from the house.

The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of operation, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the elaboration of the project. The graphic part of the design documentation, in accordance with which a sewer system is installed in a private house with your own hands - a diagram of the location of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information about regulatory requirements and the main problems in drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for selecting sewerage equipment and features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage scheme, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

• TKP 45-4.01-51-2007“Water supply and sewerage systems for residential estates”;
• SanPiN 42-128-4690-88“Sanitary rules for the maintenance of populated areas”;
• SanPiN 4630“Sanitary rules and norms for the protection of surface waters from pollution”;
• SNiP 30-02-97“Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”

When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Septic tanks and cesspools cannot be located closer than 4 m to the border of a neighbor’s property and 15 m to drinking water.

The diagram must describe the mechanism for connecting internal and external sewerage systems, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, and its technical parameters. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part must be linked to the plan of the house and garden plot, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Influencing Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water flow, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

• Volume of salvo release- peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, occurs in the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
• Wastewater treatment plant performance. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for removing treated wastewater is selected:

1. up to 5 m 3 /day – discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
2. up to 0.3 m 3 /day – periodic removal by special vehicle is allowed;
3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by its quantity, but also by the degree of purification in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

• M material for the manufacture of treatment facilities: , fiberglass, metal, various polymers ( , polyethylene). The design of the structure, installation method, further maintenance and operation depend on the technical characteristics of the material;
• Providing power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment plants are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
• Construction site topology– terrain, slope direction, proximity of water bodies and the presence of potential discharge sites for treated sewage water;
• Geodesy of the construction site– the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost of installation work, the need for additional or the purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle depend on the listed factors.

Types of sewerage structures and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment structures are allowed to be used for the installation and installation of sewerage in a private house:

• septic tank;
• filter well;
• underground filtration field;
• filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed structures should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which carries out primary rough cleaning.

Septic tank

The most common when arranging a sewer system for a private home with your own hands are two types of septic tanks:

Storage containers are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to drinking water sources/wells. A significant drawback is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewerage services.

With soil purification. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or flows by gravity into filtration structures, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, it seeps into the ground.

Filter well

The wastewater entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and through it seeps to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

1. pipe;
2. Plate bumper;
3. Pipe for the flow of wastewater.

For the arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m, an internal diameter of at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm are used. The filter layer is gravel of medium fractions, which must be periodically removed, washed and returned to the container again, in order to avoid excessive soil pollution. The material used for making the walls is often large-diameter plastic (with holes in the masonry) or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

The site is laid with perforated walls. Through them, wastewater is distributed over a large drainage area and is absorbed into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel filter. This method involves a significant amount of excavation work. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

• The thickness of the gravel filter is 20÷50 cm;
• Diameter of perforated pipes - 20÷50 cm;
• The distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide for a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm per linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5÷25 m/day, 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25÷100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75÷300 m/day, the distance can be reduced to 2 m.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is imperative to install them with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of at least 70 cm above the ground surface.

Filter trench

A filter trench performs the same functions as an underground filtration field: collection of wastewater after a septic tank, its additional purification and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep groundwater table, since the trench must also have significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and trench depth are calculated using the same methodology as used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is assumed to be 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8÷1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to construct 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

Components of the WWTP scheme

The most effective for a private home are sewer systems related to deep biological treatment plants. They are sealed containers divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed with your own hands and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. In everyday life, you should not use excessively aggressive chemicals that can destroy bacteria. The installation must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
2. In the second section (aeration tank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen using the aeration method. Here, the active phase of cleaning occurs using biological decomposition using bacteria;
3. In the third section - the settling tank, activated sludge is settled;
4. From the fourth section, where water is supplied by a jet pump from the secondary settling tank, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or drain pump.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The internal sewage system includes the following elements;

• Plumbing fixtures: , ;
• Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
• Branch lines;
• Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When installing sewerage in a private house, the standard slope indicators are often neglected, doing it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water and accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of the dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house pipes

The connection of branch pipelines to the riser is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms may be carried out in an open manner. Fastening is carried out using special couplings with dowels, or the pipes are placed on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewage pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, boxes, under the floor. To carry out maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and sewer drain lines are equipped with inspections in accordance with the standards:

• Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
• Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
• At pipeline bends (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
• On leprous horizontal sections every 8 m.

Video of installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, correct laying of pipes with a slope:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal pipe material for sewerage in a private home is polymers. Products made from them are light in weight and can be installed by hand without the assistance of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of diameters used. Installation is carried out without the use of specialized equipment and does not require long training or special skills. The sample material is not susceptible to corrosion and the aggressive effects of household chemicals, and has a long service life. The following polymers are most often used for sewerage in a private home:

• HDPE (high density polyethylene)- affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°C;
• PP()– has good performance characteristics, maximum operating temperature is +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, and has a fairly high cost;
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- a material with an optimal combination of cost and quality. Can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Resistant to ultraviolet radiation, mechanical influences of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, during long-term use, plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common method of installing a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

• The bell and smooth end are cleaned of dirt;
• A rubber seal is inserted into a special recess inside the socket, ensuring the tightness of the joints;
• Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or ordinary liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a mark is made on the smooth part of the pipe with a marker, after which it is pulled 1 cm out of the socket.

Stages of work on installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, volume and productivity of the septic tank;
2. Determining the location of the septic tank on a personal plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
3. Installation of an internal sewer network;
4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
5. Laying pipelines and connections for external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of septic tank volume

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

The calculation formula is as follows:

V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , Where

V – volume of the septic tank in m3;

n – number of permanent residents;

Q – average water consumption per person in m3;

3 – number of days of a complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP).

For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, for a family of 4 people you will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To make calculations easier, we have developed a convenient calculator especially for our readers.

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 m 2 of the filtering surface of the well:

Table of the volume of household waste per 1 linear meter of underground filtration field pipeline:

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 linear meter of filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close to each other as possible; this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewage system of a private house with your own hands, you must consider the following factors:

• it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
• It is recommended to connect other plumbing fixtures to the sewer network above the level of the toilet connection, this will eliminate the possibility of fecal matter getting into the drain lines;
• The pipeline must be rotated using several angle bends. For example, two at 45° or three at 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer system inside;
• The maximum distance for connecting plumbing fixtures to the riser should not exceed 3 m, and for the toilet 1 m.

Installation and equipment of a sewerage tank

To install a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit is dug with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in a pit, it is recommended to use lifting construction equipment, since some models have quite a significant weight. In most cases, fastening elements are provided on the housing. After installation, the container must be leveled. Depending on the design, it may be necessary to install neck extensions.

Article

It's hard to imagine a country cottage without a civilized toilet and a cozy bathroom. But not every village is equipped with a waste collection system. Therefore, sewerage in a private house is carried out separately. Don't know which system to choose? This article will tell you about all the features of sewerage in a private house.

We described possible ways of organizing waste collection, outlined their features of arrangement and application. They also provided step-by-step instructions on drawing up a project, installing a sewer pipeline, installing a septic tank and a drainage well.

There are several types of waste collection systems: central, storage, drainage, filtration.

Central. The house's waste pipe is connected to the general sewer network, through which organic waste is collected in the city sewer.

Depending on the distance of the central pipeline to the house, a decision is made on the advisability of using an autonomous or central sewerage system

Accumulation system- modern prototype. The main difference is the complete sealing of the waste collection point. It can be: concrete, brick, metal, plastic. To do this, a ditch for the container is dug on a plot of land remote from the residential building.

The principle of operation of the storage system is reduced to the discharge of organic compounds into a sealed container. When it is full, the contents are pumped out sewage treatment plant by car.

This scheme for installing an individual sewer system in a private house has gained wide popularity due to its low cost.

Pipe ventilation arrangement

The exhaust sewer system is designed to balance the negative pressure inside the pipeline. Due to the connection of sewer pipes with the atmosphere, the system is leveled.

The ventilation system is used:

• air valve.

Fan hood is a continuation of the central riser. It is installed above the roof ridge at a distance of 30-50 cm. To protect against precipitation, a deflector is attached to the outlet, which further enhances traction.

Installing a fan hood for a private cottage is extremely impractical. Such a system will require insulation of the pipeline, as well as the allocation of a separate ventilation duct in the partitions.

Air valve- perfect option. It is easy to install into the pipeline. The device is installed directly indoors. The valve is equipped with a soft rubber membrane that only allows air to pass inward.

For a two-story house, one device is enough. The valve is installed on the second floor.

Diagram of connecting waste water discharge points to the central pipe. The difference in the height of the connection of the dishwasher and toilet outflow determines the overall angle of inclination of the pipeline

Stage No. 3 - installation of a septic tank

If you decide to make a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands, then it is better to install a septic tank made of concrete rings or a ready-made plastic tank.

The volume of the container for collecting and settling organic waste is determined by calculation. Be sure to add an extra cube. The pipe insertion point is located at a distance of 2/3 from the top edge of the septic tank, so it is not filled to the top.

Construction of a septic tank

The first step is to dig three holes for installing containers. To save time and financial costs, it is advisable to combine two settling tanks into one.

The bottom of the dug hole should be reinforced with a concrete base. Concrete cannot be placed on the ground, so add a layer of crushed stone 20 cm thick.

To construct the base, formwork from construction boards is installed. It must be secured with reinforcement along the outer and inner perimeter.

Use the same mixture composition as for pouring the foundation. In this case, be sure to lay a knitted mesh as a reinforcing element. It is better to take M500 grade cement, since the weight of the filled container will be large.

After the base has hardened, and this will not happen earlier than after 3 weeks, proceed to installing the drives.

Using a crane, they install it into the dug hole. When the first link is laid, the joint with the base must be coated with cement mortar or tile adhesive. This way you will achieve tightness.

Do the same with subsequent rings. Before installing the second and third, first apply a layer of mortar to the joints. After installing all the links, re-process the joints inside the container. When the tank is installed, a brick partition is made inside.

Mounted for cleaning. The horizontal partition is made of a concrete slab with holes for plastic covers.

The last step is all the inner surfaces of the two containers.

It is worth keeping in mind that the outlet from the first container should be 10 cm lower than the first - the entrance from the house.

The angle of inclination is determined by the same parameters as for home wiring: with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, the height difference per 1 m is 20 mm.

Installation diagram of a drainage septic tank with two sealed tanks. The presence of a second container allows you to filter water from silt and other contaminants

To ensure that the slope of the pipe complies with the standards, the inlet of the second settling tank is lowered by 10 cm relative to the first.

Insulation is attached to the top of the tanks, as well as to the inside of the cleaning hatches. Cleanout or inspection hatches are installed directly above the overflow pipes so that they can be cleaned.

A concrete base is not required. Here the soil under the rings should allow water to pass through and retain sewage.

Therefore, a sand-crushed stone cushion is poured onto the bottom of the pit. The thicker the layer of crushed stone, the longer the well will perform its functions. After 5 years, you will have to replace the top layer of crushed stone with a new one, because the old one will silt up.

Keep an eye on the level. When installing the first ring on crushed stone, one edge may become warped. If this happens, simply lift the link with a crane and level the level with crushed stone.

The joints of the rings must be treated with a solution to achieve a tight seal. The construction of waterproofing and an inspection hatch is similar to a sump.

Organization of septic tank ventilation

Installation of ventilation pipes for septic tanks is justified only if aerobic bacteria are used. They intensively absorb air supplied through the hood.

Another type of biological bacteria are anaerobes. Their life processes take place without oxygen.

It is important not to confuse these two concepts, since some anaerobes die if there is air in the environment.

They are added to settling tanks. Bacteria completely convert organic matter into water. In practice, this effect can only be achieved by installing complex filtration systems, but they still need to be used. Therefore, install a ventilation pipe in both sumps.

PVC sewer pipe for outdoor use is discharged from each container through a lid. A deflector is installed at the end.

Stage No. 4 - laying the central pipe

The sewer pipe, which removes sewage from the house, is diverted from the base to a distance of 5 m. The pipeline for external use is painted orange. This product differs from “home” pipes in having thicker walls. The permissible laying depth is 3 m.

A layer of sand of 8-10 cm is poured onto the bottom of the dug hole, as well as on top of the laid pipe. To ensure the best removal of organic waste from the house to the septic tank tanks, the pipe should run in one line. Turns of the central drain are strictly prohibited.

Alternatives to a drainage septic tank

A modern device that allows you to purify wastewater by 90% or more is a deep cleaning station.

Biological filtration devices are equipped with three degrees of purification$

• biological treatment with bacteria;
• mechanical filtration with meshes;
• final cleaning with chemical compounds.

It will not be possible to install such a sewer system on your own. The stations are produced in a single container, divided internally into several compartments. The device is volatile.

The compressor unit pumps air into the aerobic compartment for increased bacterial activity. Percentage of water purification, depending on the septic tank model

If the power is turned off, the bacteria will continue to live for up to two days. After this period, the installation loses its effectiveness. It will take several days to grow a new crop

Deep purification of organic matter allows you to use waste water for watering plants. For this purpose, a storage tank with a pump is installed.

It is advisable to use deep treatment stations when groundwater is located too close to the surface of the earth. Also, if the site has clay soil, natural drainage will be difficult.

In addition to a biological septic tank, a sealed tank can serve as a way out of the situation. It will have to be pumped out often, but you won't have any other problems.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The intricacies of sewerage installation are outlined by the author of the video, who is busy laying sewer pipes:

The construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings will be discussed in the following video:

Installing a sewer system in a private house is an important stage of construction. Even at the design stage, the owner should think about the future design of septic tanks, their location, as well as the filtration system.

The comfort of everyone living in the house will depend on the correct arrangement of the sewer system, therefore, if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to entrust its arrangement to specialists.

The question of installing a full-fledged bathroom in a private house faces every owner. Technologies make it possible to equip a household sewerage system without special investments, both material and temporary. And fewer and fewer residential private buildings remain with amenities in the yard. In this article we will look at such popular questions: what types and types of sewerage systems exist, do-it-yourself sewerage system in a house, what is a septic tank and how to make one, how to make a septic tank from concrete rings, what is a cesspool and how to make one, as well as related questions.

Types of sewerage for private households are divided into two parts.

For cottage villages or urban areas where the private sector is located close to apartment buildings, the sewerage system for a private house is connected to centralized drainage collectors. This solution is convenient, since all the difficulties consist only in high-quality laying of sewer pipes to the insertion point. However, there is also a negative side to connecting a private house to the city sewer network - paying for sewerage services. For apartment buildings, a tariff is established and the total volume of wastewater disposal corresponds to the total amount of water consumed. Accounting is carried out according to the number registered, according to standards or according to water metering devices.

For a private home, where the lion's share of the water used is not drained into the sewer, charging based on water meter readings can significantly complicate life. To many, this issue will seem unimportant, but some owners strive for autonomy, so it remains relevant.

The traditional method of drainage in private houses is a cesspool, also known as a septic tank, also known as a sewer pit.

Before proceeding with a detailed guide to its creation and arrangement, it is necessary to carry out all the plumbing work in the house.

Do-it-yourself sewer system in the house

Most private sector buildings have one floor. Where there are two of them, the bathroom is located on the first floor. Modern private development projects provide for the placement of plumbing fixtures on each floor, but all objects are adjacent to a common riser. As an example, consider a standard one-story building where you need to install a sewer system yourself.

So, you need to place a sink in the kitchen, a washbasin and a bathtub/shower in the bathroom, and a toilet in the toilet.

The bathroom and toilet can be combined or separate. In any case, the drainage for them will be common, therefore the distribution of drainage points in the room must be done in such a way that the distance to the “riser” (the main pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which will discharge the wastewater to the street) is minimal.

According to design documents, the kitchen where the sink is located often has an adjacent wall with a bathtub or toilet. In this case, no difficulties arise. If the kitchen is remote from the main riser, it is necessary to lay a separate drain before connecting it to the riser. Depending on the situation, this can be done both in the perimeter of the house (the drain connection is included in the riser, which includes drains from the washbasin and bathtub/shower), and outside the perimeter (if the placement of the kitchen and bathroom does not allow the pipes to be connected in the perimeter, they are led outside boundaries of the house, where they can connect or enter the drainage pit separately).

The difficulties described above are caused by the fact that for high-quality water flow it is necessary to maintain the sewer slope, which is not always possible to do in situations where the distance from point to point is large. The slope of the sewer must be a certain percentage depending on the diameter of the pipe. See the sewer slope values ​​depending on the pipe diameter in the figure below.

Sewerage pipes are laid under the floor. Most buildings have wooden floors raised above ground level. The cavities under the floor are empty, which gives a lot of options for solving the problem. The slope is measured by the building level or marks on the masonry along which the pipe should pass. The assembled pipe spans are tested at intermediate stages by pouring water into the system and monitoring its drainage. It is important that even a small part does not stagnate anywhere, since a blockage will form there, which will be difficult to remove after laying the floor. Sewage slopes of more than 5% are permissible if this is dictated by the convenience of placing the system or the amount of space under the floor.

Final assembly

When the wastewater from each drainage point is brought to its final location, final assembly awaits. PVC pipes for sewerage have all the necessary elbows and adapters, as well as tees with various transitions, allowing you to join together drains from a sink, shower and washing machine. Next, the riser and toilet drain are combined. After completion of the work, a final high-load test is required to eliminate any leaks if any occur and to avoid blockages and water accumulation.

The sewage system is discharged beyond the perimeter of the house at a depth of at least 300 mm. It depends on the climatic characteristics of the region, as well as on the slope of the site, the proximity of groundwater, which affect the depth of the drainage pit.

At each of the drain points, except for the toilet, an elbow is made from a flexible hose, in which a small amount of water constantly stands, the so-called water seal, which prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the drain. If necessary, clearing the blockage in such a knee takes 10 minutes.

Drain system

It is this that becomes a stumbling block for many homeowners when it comes to installing domestic sewerage in a private home. Technologies have significantly simplified the work with the contents of such pits, allowing them to go without maintenance for many years.
Domestic sewerage is divided into two types - a septic tank and a traditional drainage pit.

Septic tank

A technological solution promoted in the construction of cottage communities and small country houses. They are a plastic or metal container that collects all waste and organic waste. It uses only its useful volume, which is partially increased by the use of microorganisms (septic) that process organic matter into gas (discharged through the ventilation duct, does not harm the environment) and clean water (suitable for watering the area using a small pump). For a full-fledged residential building for a large family, large capacity models are offered.

The bottleneck of this type of sewerage is its price. The cost of the containers is quite high; moreover, it comes with transportation and installation, which must be carried out in compliance with the technology so that the container remains intact.

An advantage worth noting is that the septic tank can be installed in areas with high groundwater levels. The containers are sunk in dug holes, then loaded with a load so that flood water does not push them out of the ground.

The average maintenance period with proper use and adequate saving of useful space is 2-5 years.

Septic tank made of concrete rings

One of the subtypes of a septic tank is a device made from factory-made concrete rings. This type of septic tank is quite popular, because... it is relatively cheap, fast and easy to install. Making a septic tank from concrete rings with your own hands is quite simple. To do this, dig a hole of sufficient depth. To cut off water, a layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom.

Usually they put 3 one and a half meter rings on top of each other, then cover them with a lid with a hole. Another small ring is placed on this hole to provide access to the septic tank. This ring is closed by a sewer hatch. The rings are fastened together with cement mortar. If you are making a septic tank with an overflow, then you need to make 2 or 3 such pyramids of rings. The more overflow chambers, the cleaner the water will be at the outlet. The bottom in the first chamber is waterproofed and concreted. A hole is punched in the upper part of the upper large ring and a 110 mm pipe is inserted onto which tees are put on on both sides.

If you want to make 3 chambers, then we repeat the procedure with the hole and pipe, but place them just below the level of the overflow from the first chamber to the second. A pipe is taken from the last chamber to the drainage field, or the bottom is left open and large crushed stone is laid out on it. On the outside sides, the rings are filled with sand to cut off water. Do not forget to take the ventilation pipe out of the chambers to allow air access.

Video about a septic tank made of concrete rings

cesspool

It has been used for many decades without any complaints or particular problems. Even in areas with high groundwater levels that fill such pits during flood periods, a solution was found in the form of placing the pit at a shallow depth, but with a large area.

The location for placing the pit and draining the sewer from the house must be determined before the start of all work, since reorienting the system already installed under the floor will require recalculating the slopes and additional time.

The pipe leading from the house to the pit is deepened by 500 - 800 mm, if the water level allows. Otherwise, it is necessary to insulate it as much as possible and leave inspection windows (a special joint block with an opening lid) for convenient cleaning every 3 meters of the pipe length.

The average pit volume for this type of sewer is 5 cubic meters per adult. At the same time, you should not neglect organic septic tanks, which will allow you to do without pumping out the contents for decades.

We build a drainage pit

Having chosen a place, you need to determine the linear dimensions and depth, dig a hole and carefully level the walls. The perimeter near the walls at the bottom is dug under the edge by 300 mm and deepens approximately 500 mm in depth. A small layer of crushed stone is placed on the bottom, then 2-3 rows of half-blocks without holes are laid on top of the solution. This will be the basis for the walls of the cesspool.

Walls (only it can withstand the microenvironment for a long time), making gaps between bricks 20 - 25% of their length, starting from the 5-6th row. Water will drain out at these intervals, which will allow you to less frequently service the pit.

The masonry is not brought out to the edge of the pit, but with a shortfall of 400 mm. The main thing is that the sewer outlet pipe is completely lined.

At the bottom of the pit, medium crushed stone is laid out in a layer up to 200 mm thick; on top it can be reinforced with stones collected from slag heaps, similar to pumice for feet. This trick allows you to pump out the pit even less often, since microorganisms that absorb organic matter develop well in the pores of such drainage.

The overlap can be anything, from a shaped finished reinforced concrete slab to a self-poured product. This product is created from flat slate or galvanized sheet, laid out on top of the masonry edge. The future ceiling should protrude at least 250 - 300 mm beyond the edges of the masonry. Reinforcement from rods is laid on top. A mesh made of reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm with a cell of 20 by 20 cm will be sufficient. The lower edge of the mesh must be raised from the base by at least 20 mm (it is better to lay it on stones or protective layer clamps). We build formwork on the sides of the reinforcement and fill everything with a 100 - 200 mm layer of concrete.

If the linear dimensions are large, a support made of brick or cast iron pipe is placed in the center of the pit on which the floors rest.

It is imperative to leave a hatch to allow access to the pit, as well as to pump it out if necessary.

An excellent solution would be to make the upper edge of the ceiling below ground level and fill the space around the hatch with turf.

It is imperative to leave an outlet pipe for ventilation (standard PVC sewer pipe). Many people make gazebos or parking spaces for cars on top. But in this case, the reinforcement and the slab above the pit must be seriously strengthened.

We hope you have understood the basics of plumbing in your home. If you still have questions, ask them in the comments to the article, we will definitely answer them.

Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place during the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.

And sewerage for a private house, as the craftsmen correctly note, is most often installed after the building is built.

Schemes and views

In large houses with many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this should be done, despite the subsequent hefty fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewer system.

Internal sewerage: diagram and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each home.

Here you can create the scheme yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like that of specialists. But if you act wisely, you can use it to lay a pipeline and determine the required amount of equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify positions for the sewer pipeline (STP), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, indicate the shaped elements for the pipeline and the distances from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. This work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

1. For a riser or heating system, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10–11 cm.
2. For drains from the kitchen and bathroom, a 5 cm pipe is used.
3. Turns in the sewer should be made with two elbows. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Typically these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first ones are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products made from the other two specified materials are becoming increasingly famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Buyers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high wastewater temperatures.

It is important to know: It is worth noting that products made of PVC and polypropylene are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made from all these materials will last a very long time if used correctly.

Kinds

Typically, according to the method of operation, sewerage is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewerage according to the method of wastewater disposal: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenses and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, in private houses, usually mixed gravity sewerage is installed.

Installation

An assistant is required for this work. The work is carried out with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: audits, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

The sleeves are placed in those areas where the system intersects the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And powerful insulation is done there using plumbing sealant.

The pipes are laid with some slope. These are SNiP requirements. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope calculated in cm/1 shoulder strap. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by observing this rule can a functioning internal sewage system be installed efficiently.

And a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is also unacceptable. In the first situation, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, and a blockage will form. In the second case, the drainage flows in these pipes will gain too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

For your information: For work you will also need a soldering iron and a hammer drill.

The work starts from the outlet - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. By starting this way, you will prevent these systems from becoming inconsistent. The outlet is installed through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, you need to create one.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve protrudes from each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve proceeds with a slope of 2% for the external sewerage next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet must coincide with the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is in the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating waste from the toilet will be short. The following trend applies here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can install it in boxes, in walls, or use the open method. For installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If your diagram contains a point where the outlets from the shower, bathtub and sink converge, then installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The inspection must be mounted on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After which this pipe is led to the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the exhaust pipe itself must differ in height.

After installing the internal sewerage system, it must be thoroughly flushed with clean water. This way the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer system is a network of pipes from the outlet block to the septic tank or treatment station. The pipes here are laid underground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it is also better to lay brightly colored pipes so that they are easier to notice in the depths. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There are different types of external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where wastewater is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total treatment stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

1. Two-chamber.
2. Three-chamber.
3. With biofilter.
4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

1. The needs of all residents of the house.
2. The number of these residents.
3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
4. Approximate water consumption. This refers to how much water each resident spends daily. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances are also important here.
5. Groundwater level in your area.
6. Parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for treatment equipment are calculated.
7. Soil type.
8. The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you should buy is also a matter of your budget. It also wouldn’t hurt to consult with experts.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

1. The garden and septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
2. Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in organizing external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and laying do not pose any particular difficulties.

As for the general scheme of external sewerage, it necessarily includes:

• a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
• waste discharge channels to the disposal point;
• settling tank (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

1. Creating a trench. It connects house drains to a septic tank. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m of pipe in the direction of the cesspool.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
3. A pipeline is laid along this cushion close to the storage tank.
4. The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along an oval of cords. The cord is treated with solid oil.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

1. For installation, use materials with the required parameters.
2. Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
3. Do not use low quality pipes.
4. Do not clog the drain with heavy waste.
5. Design the sewer system at the same time as designing the house itself.
6. Install sewerage during construction stages. This is the best option. If it was not followed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer system in a private house, see the tips in the following video: