Secrets of growing remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberries, or as they are more correctly called, remontant garden strawberries, can increasingly be found in the garden plots of not only amateurs, but also professionals. It sometimes inhabits large territories, and the owners are happy with this coexistence. However, to my surprise, many people still have questions about proper care for remontant garden strawberries, as if this overseas miracle was brought to our land just a couple of days ago.

Main difference remontant strawberries garden from the ordinary lies in its ability to bloom and, accordingly, bear fruit twice a season, without interruption. Only a small fraction of plants have this ability - raspberries and a number of citrus fruits.

Garden strawberries of remontant varieties can lay flower buds either in long daylight conditions (for example, the Garland variety) or in neutral daylight conditions (for example, the Miracle of the World variety). It is noteworthy that varieties capable of setting flower buds in long daylight conditions produce approximately 40% of their harvest in July and up to 60% of their harvest in August.

Remontant garden strawberries, capable of laying flower buds in neutral daylight conditions, bloom and bear fruit throughout the warm period, gradually yielding their harvest. Taking into account the great wear and tear of plants, plantations of remontant strawberries that bear fruit twice a year also need to be changed once every three years, and those that bear fruit throughout the warm period - once every two years, each time changing the location of the plot.

In our material we will try to bring to your attention in as much detail as possible the subtleties of caring for remontant garden strawberries.

How to properly care for remontant garden strawberries?

By and large, varieties of remontant strawberries cannot be called capricious; they are all quite unpretentious, but they still have their own subtleties in care. For example, everyone knows that modern large-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries can form berries weighing from 65 to 90 grams or more. Naturally, this will lead to high share the likelihood of fairly rapid depletion of the soil and the need to apply additional fertilizers. This may be why a number of gardeners, contrary to general opinion, advise removing the very first spring flower stalks. Then the second harvest of remontant strawberries, firstly, will be much earlier than expected, therefore, the plants will prepare for winter without human intervention. Secondly, the berries will be tastier and larger. Sometimes the total harvest after such a simple technique even exceeds two total harvests or an all-season harvest for remontant varieties of a different type.

Caring for remontant garden strawberries includes strictly required steps- this is an indispensable watering (plants must be provided with plenty of moisture), fertilizer (everything is good here in moderation, but plants should not suffer from a deficiency of one or another element), loosening the soil (after each watering and rain to avoid the formation of a soil crust when air and water exchange is disturbed), mulching the beds (after each watering, as it inhibits the growth of weeds and the formation of soil crust), weed control (especially wheatgrass - the most malicious competitor of crops), the destruction of pests and diseases (at the earliest stages of their manifestations), pruning bushes (a specific procedure for remontant strawberries) and, finally, preparation for winter (an important stage in the life of remontant garden strawberries).

Important! Gardeners who have been through fire and water recommend that you always mulch the beds with remontant garden strawberries, because the root system of this berry crop, unlike the common garden strawberry, is located high, and the plants very often suffer from a banal lack of moisture. To save irrigation water, you need to use mulch almost immediately after watering (and water better with water room temperature and in the evening). The mulch can be spruce needles, sawdust, straw, humus, hay, or ordinary mown grass. In addition to protecting against moisture loss, mulch will also protect the berries from being splashed with soil during rain and watering and will inhibit the growth of weeds (don’t forget about them too!).

Watering remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties of garden strawberries need to be watered more often than ordinary garden strawberries, especially in the dry seasons of the year. Immediately after planting the seedlings, the plants need to be watered every day, then after five to six days, watering can be done every other day, and ultimately, watering just a couple of times a month will be enough.

To water remontant strawberries, you can only use warm water at room temperature, it’s great if this rainwater, collected in a barrel painted black. You can water the plantings both in the morning and in the evening. When watering, try to ensure that the soil in the area where remontant garden strawberries grow is moistened by two to three centimeters at a time.

As for the mulch of remontant strawberries, as we already wrote above, it is needed, but it is not at all necessary to cover the soil with mulch immediately after watering; this can be done the next day. Instead of mulch, if, for example, it's raining, the soil between the rows can be carefully loosened. But remember: it is very important not to damage the roots, which, as we have already written, are located closer to the surface of the soil than those of common strawberries. The main thing when mulching or loosening is to avoid soil crust so that air can freely penetrate to the roots.

If a long period there is no rain and the soil is drying out, then you can break all the rules of watering and moisten the soil almost every day, without allowing the soil to dry out too much, this is very important. If the soil is already very dry, for example, in a country house where you have not been for several days, then first very carefully loosen the soil and then water it, but do not do the opposite. Frequent watering is especially important for day-neutral varieties of remontant strawberries; why, I think there is no need to explain here. These same varieties require more frequent and thorough weeding, especially after rain and the removal of dying leaves that turn red.

Fertilizer for remontant strawberries

It is clear that remontant garden strawberries can be severely depleted and they definitely need proper feeding. Remontant garden strawberries most actively consume elements such as nitrogen and potassium from the soil. But she needs phosphorus, but to an insignificant extent. Taking this into account, fertilizing with phosphorus can be carried out only once, adding doses of superphosphate (15-20 g per square meter) only when establishing a remontant plantation garden strawberries.

An approximate feeding scheme for remontant strawberries is as follows:

Usually, the first feeding of remontant strawberries is carried out in the third ten days of May, during this period they use urea, the composition is very weak - one gram or two (if the soil is poor, per bucket of water), this is the norm per square meter of soil. Approximately in the second half of June, when peduncles of repeated fruiting begin to actively form, you can add mullein (1:10 - in the amount of 0.5 liters per square meter or bird droppings 1:15 - in the amount of 0.3 liters per square meter). It is quite acceptable to use newfangled fertilizers along with organic fertilizers. mineral supplements, such as Mortar Kristallin or Kemira Lux.

In general, ideally, the entire season should be stretched out so that there are about ten fertilizers, alternating these fertilizers.

The second option for feeding remontant strawberries is when, at the very beginning of June, the plants are fed not only with slurry diluted 10 times and bird droppings 15 times, but also with the addition of 1% urea (1 g per bucket of water), this entire composition should be used on 2 - 3 square meters of area.

Diseases of remontant strawberries

Gray rot

Garden strawberries are often attacked by gray rot. It manifests itself most actively in dense plantations, where the soil is not loosened and frequent watering is carried out, especially by sprinkling and cold water. Gray rot can affect all above-ground organs of the plant, which will lead to losses of up to 85% of the entire crop. In order to prevent the appearance of gray rot on remontant strawberries, it is necessary to plant on the site in accordance with the characteristics of the growth and development of a particular variety, to mulch the soil, as well as sufficient, but not excessive watering. At the first sign of infection, the affected parts of the plants should be removed.

As a preventative measure, you can treat plants at the very beginning of the growing season with 2.0% Bordeaux mixture, and after harvesting at the very end of the growing season, to consolidate the result, with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides to combat the disease, but you can only use approved ones, in full accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Strobi, Switch, Euparen, Triadimefon (Bayleton), Captan. The biological product Alirin-B is considered the safest from the list of recommended ones.

Brown spot

It manifests itself when, as in the previous case, strawberry plantings are thickened, there is too much moisture, and day and night temperatures fluctuate noticeably. As a preventive measure in the spring, remove all dry leaves so that the infection does not “settle” on them and treat with 2% Bordeaux mixture. Do not forget about mulching, which will not allow the fungus to reach the surface.

If the disease is very active, then use approved fungicides, strictly following the instructions on the package, for example, Skor, Strobi, Fundazol.

Powdery mildew

The first sign of the appearance of this disease is the purple color of the strawberry leaf blades, then they curl and become ash-gray, as if sprinkled with old flour. If you don’t want this disease to come visit you, then in early spring treat the plants with a weak (slightly pink) solution of potassium permanganate or 1% colloidal sulfur.

There are also fungicides, but use only approved ones and exactly in accordance with the instructions on the package, for example, Topaz, Fundazol, Tilt, Strobi and Fitosporin-M.

Brown spotting on strawberry leaves. Powdery mildew on strawberry leaves.

Pests of remontant strawberries

The first pests of remontant strawberries on my site are slugs. I saved myself from them by planting garlic between the rows: honestly, I never saw a single slug again.

Strawberry mite

It is considered much more dangerous pest strawberries: if it damages young leaves, they curl and turn yellow quite actively. The plant itself is sharply inhibited in growth. The mite can infect from half to the entire plantation, and without treatment it can lead to its death.

A 3% solution of colloidal sulfur helps to overcome mites, but it can only be used very early in the spring and after the entire harvest has been harvested. Well, and of course, - various kinds permitted acaricides.

Strawberry nematode

Usually, if a strawberry is infected with a nematode, its leaves become deformed and curled. Characteristic feature can be seen on the petioles: they become too fragile and sometimes break even from the wind. Fruiting on such plants is either weak or absent altogether. The nematode is considered a quarantine pest; if it is present on the site, plants must be immediately removed and burned.

Spider mite

Usually the strawberry leaves seem to become limp, and if you turn them over, you will notice traces of the mite’s activity – a cobweb. As a result, the leaf blades ahead of schedule turn yellow and dry out. Gardeners write that Karbofos helps very well against spider mites. After harvesting the entire crop, they process the plants and cover them with film for several days.

Signs of damage to strawberries by strawberry or cyclamen mites. Dead strawberry plants infected with strawberry nematode. Strawberries affected by spider mites.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Caring for remontant strawberry bushes, among other things, also includes pruning. Typically, it is enough to prune bushes once a season - either in spring or autumn.

If you live in a cold region where remontant strawberries require shelter, then pruning should be done in the autumn. This is done as follows: after the final harvest of the entire harvest, the lower leaf blades are removed from the bush, trying not to touch the upper leaf blades, because it is in their axils that the fruit buds are laid, from which the fruits will form in the next season.

In the event that berries do not form on the mustache at all and the gardener does not plan to propagate remontant garden strawberries in this way, then removal of the mustache is mandatory.

Remember, however, this rule: after the first fruiting of remontant garden strawberries, the removal of the whiskers is usually not carried out, but the leaves that have begun to dry out, have formed spots or are hiding more developed and healthy leaves must be removed. Removing such leaves can be done in the fall, immediately after harvesting the entire crop, when the foliage slowly begins to dry out.

If you are a resident of a cold region, then take your time and postpone this operation to the spring, remove such leaves after the snow cover has completely melted.

Important! Many people neglect to trim dead leaves and tendrils of remontant garden strawberries, but their removal is like a shield that protects plants from pathogens, because it is on diseased, old foliage that the infection overwinters.

Autumn care and preparation for wintering

Long sunny day remontant strawberry plants often do not ripen fully by the end of the season, especially if they are not grown in a greenhouse. Taking this into account, not only is part of the harvest lost, but sometimes plants that do not have time to adapt to cold weather and frost also suffer. The best option to save such plants is to cover them with fresh straw 5-8 cm thick, and throw spruce branches on top, which will keep the straw from flying all over the area.

Bottom line

As you can see, growing remontant garden strawberries does not present any particular difficulties and even a beginner, not to mention a professional, can cope with this task.

Do not forget, however, even though we have already written about this, that the lifespan of the plantation should be no more than three years, after which the plantings need to be renewed.

​Similar articles​​As you can see, remontant strawberries, planted and cared for by gardeners and gardeners in accordance with the requirements of the crop, can bear fruit all season without interruption, delighting the owners with a high-quality and healthy harvest.​

general information

​On hot days, the soil dries out quite quickly, which will immediately affect the yield - a lack of moisture in the soil will lead to a reduction in flowering and fruiting. Therefore, it is necessary to water the crop regularly. Watering for strawberries is especially important when the bushes are at the stage of development that determines the productivity of the crop. That is, the whole strawberry will need to be watered summer season if it doesn't rain. Mulch can significantly reduce watering, as well as loosening the soil, if it is regularly used in the garden bed. Mulching will ensure, firstly, the preservation of moisture in the soil, and secondly, constant access of fresh air to the root system of the bushes.​

​1 bucket of compost, to which 2 liters of vermicompost are added.​

There are several technologies for planting remontant strawberries:

​It is better to prepare such a bed at the end of August or at the beginning of September. It is undesirable to dig up the ground right before frost, since all its disturbed inhabitants will not have time to prepare for winter and hibernate. As a result, this area will lose earthworms, wild bees, and bumblebees, which spend the winter in earthen burrows. Future strawberries need soil looseners and pollinators. If you dig up the soil before the onset of cold weather, when arthropods are still active, then the allies of gardeners will have time to prepare for winter.​

Preparing for landing

​In the future, constantly loosen, weed and water the plantings. In August, a week before moving the young bushes to a new place, cut off the tendrils connecting them to the mother bushes. The best predecessors are traditionally onions or garlic. Plant the plants in rows every 35 cm with a row spacing of 50 cm. The growing point should be level with the ground, compact the soil and water it.​

​The first harvest of such strawberries coincides with the early ones garden varieties KSD. The second time fruiting occurs in August, the third - in the fall. As a rule, the harvest of large-fruited strawberries in percentage expressed as follows: 30% berries in spring, 70% in summer. Many gardeners sacrifice the first berries and cut off the flower stalks, ensuring an earlier, richer second fruiting.​

• ​Simultaneously with watering, you can fertilize strawberries. In this case, you can use something you made yourself herbal infusion, which is prepared from crushed wormwood or nettle, filled with water and infused in the sun for 7 days. Such infusions feed the crop well, because they contain all the microelements necessary for strawberries. During periods of formation and ripening of berries, such infusions can also be used. Additionally, it is necessary to use an infusion of bird droppings (ratio 1:15) or cows (1:10).​
• Propagation of strawberries is possible not only by mustaches and dividing bushes, but also by seeds. To do this, first, seedlings are grown at home. To do this, planting seeds should be carried out in mini-greenhouses in January-February, so that the seedlings are stronger and prepared for spring planting in open ground. This process is quite troublesome and requires special training.​
• ​It is worth starting to prepare the site for future planting in the fall in order to facilitate spring care And further cultivation plants. The ground in the planned location must be dug up and free of weeds. Next, it’s worth feeding the soil with phosphorus fertilizers and adding humus. In this form, the site remains for the winter. You can continue soil preparation with the arrival of spring - 2.5-3 weeks before the planned planting date, add last year's manure per 1 square meter. m – 10 liters. Planting processes can begin as early as mid-May.​
• ​Remontant strawberry Recently it has become quite a popular crop to grow. And it’s not surprising, because compared to ordinary strawberries, which bear fruit only for a couple of weeks, remontant varieties can produce crops up to several times a year. However, not everyone knows and takes into account that growing such strawberries is different from ordinary ones.​

​Large-fruited garden strawberry- common berry crop. It tolerates winters well and produces reliable harvests. large berries. Typically, crops ripen in July, and in August - September the plants begin to lay flower buds for next year's harvest. The flower buds the next year after overwintering develop into flower stalks and produce a harvest.​

​Mulch can also inhibit the growth of weeds in the garden bed, which will make it easier to care for the crop in terms of regular weeding. Of course, strawberries will not suffer from weeds if it is not possible to mulch the soil. However, the presence weed may negatively affect the very quality of the berries of the crop.​

Planting methods

To avoid evaporation on hot days and during dry periods, when planting seedlings, it is customary to remove the lower leaves from the bushes, leaving only one full-fledged adult leaf that is fully expanded. Thus, the fumes will not harm the foliage, and the plant will take root much better and faster.​

​perennial and annual crops;​​A long-term harvest in one place can be guaranteed by a supply of organic matter in the soil. Before the initial formation of the bed, it is necessary to dig a trench in its place, at the bottom of which a layer of grass should be laid, preferably not dry, covered with a layer of manure, if necessary (if the soil is obviously poor) sprinkled on top mineral fertilizers and cover it all with a layer of soil from the trench.​

Reproduction by dividing bushes Propagation by seeds

​Pest control and disease protection also includes caring for strawberries. There are several diseases, the most common of which are: gray mold (fungal infections that spread in cool weather), powdery mildew(leaf disease) and brown spot (leaf disease). Special preparations and manipulations to remove infected parts will help in the fight against these diseases. Among pests, the main damage to strawberries can be caused by the strawberry mite, against which a solution of karbofos can be used in the form of spraying, which is usually carried out after the crop is harvested.​

How to plant planting material

The simplest method is to propagate strawberries using tendrils. This method is carried out using minimal experience and knowledge if the remontant strawberry has a large number of mustaches. When there are not so many tendrils, and there is no planting material in the form of seeds, then strawberries can be propagated by dividing adult bushes.

​When planting in the fall, it is also worth preparing the soil in advance. The planting itself should take place from mid-August to early September. This period is considered optimal, because the plant will have time to take root before the first frost arrives.​

​In particular, planting and caring for such a delicate crop requires special attention and knowledge about some agrotechnical features of the plant.​

But there are varieties that are called remontant. Their peculiarity is the ability to lay flower buds in the spring, in May, which develop and produce a harvest in the same year. Some of them (small-fruited) bear fruit continuously from July until autumn frosts, others (large-fruited) are capable of producing two harvests - in July and at the end of August - September. In September, the harvest is harvested only if there is no frost, or the plants are covered.​

Planting material

​Autumn care and preparation of remontant strawberries for winter are very important for the crop. The list of such procedures includes only two items: it is necessary to gradually reduce the volume of watering and carry out sanitary procedures for treating bushes (pruning diseased or damaged leaves, trimming mustaches).​

​Remontant strawberries are not the most capricious crop. But, like other plants, after planting it needs good care. Post-planting activities, where care actually begins, consist in watering the planted seedlings of remontant strawberries to ensure the best growth of the roots of the seedlings with the ground. Then it is worth mulching the soil. To do this, you can use pine needles and foliage (rotted), compost, and small sawdust. Gardeners do not recommend using straw, especially coarse straw, because it will be too dense and coarse for young bushes.​

​narrowband and broadband;​

How to care for culture

​A bed prepared in this way will ensure a good harvest of strawberries without fertilizing for at least five years in advance.​

• ​Dividing bushes is an emergency method that is used when there is not enough seedlings or when there is an urgent need to move the planting to a new location. For propagation, two- and four-year-old plants are taken, selecting well-developed specimens with a healthy root system. At this age, the bush usually consists of 30-40 small shoots-horns.​
• The culture is propagated different ways: seeds, mustaches, dividing bushes. Some small-fruited varieties that do not form a mustache are grown from seedlings from seeds. In addition, this method preserves the purity of the variety.​
• ​Removing the tendrils of bushes is one of the points that make up the care, which should be carried out regularly, because the plantation is overgrown big amount young shoots, usually gives a small harvest.​
• In general, the gardener quite independently chooses the method by which he will further grow strawberries, based on how he will be most comfortable.
• ​In both the spring and autumn seasons, miracle strawberries can be planted. The preferred planting option is the nesting method (for strawberry varieties that reproduce by tendrils). With this method, it is much easier to root mustaches that are ready to bear fruit immediately. There are also other planting methods, the choice of which is determined by the convenience of harvesting:

​Remontant strawberry, being a relative of wild strawberry, has a certain similarity with it. Only the yield of such berries depends on natural features laying of fruit buds. That is, remontant strawberries are capable of laying buds for the next harvest both during long and neutral daylight hours, depending on the variety.​

​Among the small-fruited remontant varieties there are varieties that reproduce by whiskers. The abundance of thin mustaches makes it very difficult to care for, so these strawberries are not widespread.​

​The quality and quantity of the harvest that the next year will bring will depend on these manipulations.​

​Proper care of strawberries, if carried out in accordance with the characteristics of the remontant variety and general requirements, gives good results: the plants will take root well in the garden bed and will develop well, subsequently delighting the owners with high yields. So, the main care should be:

​trellis;​

​Autumn care for remontant strawberries is to enable the plants to prepare as effectively as possible for the dormant period.​

Each horn has a rosette of leaves, apical and several lateral buds, as well as adventitious roots. Dig up such plants in spring or early fall, divide them into horns and plant them in a permanent bed. Water every day for the first time of planting. If it's worth hot weather, seedlings should be shaded.​

​Growing remontant strawberries from seeds:​

Preparing the crop for wintering

​At the same time mature strawberry noticeably depleted. Therefore, the antennae should be removed as they grow, except for a few that will later become planting material. You can see more about trimming and removing mustaches in the video.​

Caring for a miracle crop involves growing it in compliance with all the rules and characteristics of the variety. In general, it consists of:​

​Carpet.​

​Miracle strawberries can bear fruit from May until October, delighting the gardener even during the berry-free season. A combined landing in a garden bed of several varieties at once will ensure high yields.​

LetovSadu.ru

Secrets of growing remontant strawberries

Distinctive features of the variety

​But the beardless, small-fruited, remontant strawberries are well known to experienced gardeners. The size of its berries is 1.5 - 2 times larger than wild strawberries. The high taste qualities of the berries, close to wild strawberries, the ability to pick berries from July until frost, the absence of mustaches (easy to care for), the decorative nature of the plants due to the constant presence of white flowers and red (or cream) berries make this strawberry interesting not only for gardeners, but and for residents of city apartments.​

​For winter period Some of the strawberry foliage will dry out and die. As a rule, various pests and pathogens of certain diseases can overwinter in such leaves. Therefore, with the arrival of spring, all fallen leaves must be removed from the garden bed. But this should be done only after the threat of frost has passed, because after the snow has melted, old dead leaves protect young branches and the bushes themselves from the cold wind and help retain moisture in the soil.​ Regular watering and fertilizing;​bush (one-line, two-line, three-line).​

​Preparing for winter also means removing all excess that will prevent the strawberries from gaining strength for the winter and effective development in the spring. To do this, it is necessary to prune late flowers, which obviously will no longer bear fruit. It takes a lot to buy flowers useful substances, which the plant could store and mobilize in the spring. In addition, it is necessary to trim late mustaches that will no longer have time to take root.​

Caring for remontant strawberries mainly involves regular loosening and watering. Loosening the soil enriches the root system with oxygen, which is so necessary for the full development of the bush and the formation of the crop. During the fruiting period, the plantings are not weeded or loosened. Weeds growing in the garden, of course, reduce the quantity and quality of berries, so they get rid of them.​

Propagation of remontant strawberries

• In February, soak the seed in snow water for three days, remembering to change it regularly;

​You should properly care for your remontant strawberry crop in the fall to prepare it for the cold season. Plants that have become obsolete over the summer need to be fed so that the recovery process in the spring goes faster.​

​regular loosening of the soil or mulching;​

1. With this method, strawberries are planted according to a 20x20 cm pattern. That is, there should be a distance of 20 cm both between the bushes and between the rows. The bush, growing over the years, will itself fill the space remaining during planting.
2. ​Planting and caring for remontant strawberries is quite specific, because the release of berries, carried out several times in one season, greatly weakens the bushes of the crop.​
3. ​It grows well in balcony boxes. When sown in February, berries from bare strawberries can be obtained from July. Good seedlings from February sowing it will grow only in a greenhouse. In indoor conditions, there is usually not enough light for its growth, and the plants develop weakly and stretch out. It is easier to grow seedlings later, sowing seeds in April - May. It can also be sown in open ground in summer. The start of fruiting of plants depends on the time of sowing: the earlier the sowing is carried out, the earlier fruiting begins. When sown in summer, strawberries bear fruit only the next year after overwintering in the garden.​
4. Strawberries of remontant varieties are a rather delicate plant and sensitive to various kinds of diseases. Such a culture may suffer from the following diseases:
5. ​timely detection and removal of bushes affected by diseases or pests;​
6. ​However, the most popular and preferred method, judging by the reviews experienced gardeners, is precisely the two-line bush planting method on beds whose width ranges from 1.2 to 1.4 m with paths between them. The popularity of this method is justified by the fact that it can avoid thickening of seedlings, as well as protect the crop from fungal diseases. At the same time, this method of planting strawberries allows for parallel planting of another crop. For example, you can plant garlic between the rows, which is also a very useful “companion” for remontant strawberries, as it will help get rid of slugs. However, the proximity of strawberries and tomatoes is contraindicated, since both of these crops can be susceptible to late blight, verticillium and fusarium diseases.​

• ​B climatic conditions During harsh winters, all strawberry beds must be covered. Any material that protects not so much from frost, but from wind and temperature changes, is suitable for this. The ideal cover is a layer of leaves or grass laid down before the first snowfall. However, this fur coat is difficult to remove in the spring. In addition, mice like to live in this layer, which dig tunnels and damage strawberries. So it is better to use plastic film.​

​The formation of berries and their further ripening is impossible without sufficient moisture: its lack can lead to the absence of ovaries or the formation of ugly fruits.​

​Prepare the seed boxes by filling them with a mixture of leaf humus (50%), garden land(25%), sifted sand (25%). It is advisable to cover the bottom of the containers with a layer of broken bricks. Then moisten the soil well;

On young bushes it is necessary to start removing flower stalks from the end of summer. In this case, you should feel sorry for the plants and sacrifice the future harvest, because the berries simply will not have time to ripen before the cold weather arrives, and the plant will simply waste its strength. The foliage should be completely removed by cutting it not after picking the berries, but after the first frost occurs.​

• ​frequent and abundant watering (especially for NSD varieties)​

​Private.​

There are even cases of plant death in the year of planting. This feature of the crop quite often scares away gardeners, and they return to growing ordinary strawberries, depriving themselves of the opportunity to enjoy ripe, aromatic berries for a long period.​

How to care for remontant strawberries

​How to sow and care for the crops correctly? The seeds of remontant strawberries are very small and cannot be buried in the soil. When sowing in a box, they are scattered over a leveled, watered soil surface; they can be lightly sprinkled (1 mm) with earth on top or left unsprinkled.

​powdery mildew;​ ​periodic mulching of the soil;​​Remontant strawberries grow best in narrow beds, the optimal width for which should be 90-110 cm.​

​Remontant strawberries in your garden are everyone’s favorite aromatic berries that can be enjoyed from the very beginning of summer until frost arrives. You can grow such berries yourself.

​Keep the soil under the plants moist throughout the season​

grounde.ru

Growing remontant strawberries: autumn care

​Since the seeds are very small, simply crush the surface of the soil with them, press lightly, and sprinkle with a spray bottle. Cover with film, keep the room temperature +20-25 oC;​

The holes are ventilated before the onset of cold weather. After loosening the soil (without exposing the roots of the bushes), add a new layer of mulch using rotted leaves. When subzero temperature becomes stable, you can begin to cover the strawberry bushes trimmed from the leaves. You can use both fallen leaves and spruce branches, as well as previously mowed grass.​

Autumn plant care

​feeding;​

​Unlike the previous one, this method provides for a planting distance between bushes of 20 to 25 m, and between rows - 70 m. This method is designed to ensure that the remontant strawberry bush will grow, increasing in diameter, which is typical for these varieties.​

​Remontant strawberry varieties are recommended to be grown on fertile soils, with good drainage and a neutral composition. After all, in order to bear fruit regularly, strawberries must receive nutrients coming from the earth. Therefore, landing will give excellent results, if strawberries are grown on loamy soil. For an area with a heavy soil composition, you can use sand as a “dilution.”​

The box is covered with glass or film. Until germination, the box can be kept in a dark but warm place. Water only by spraying (for example, from a spray bottle). When seedlings emerge, the box should be placed on a bright window or in a greenhouse. When three true leaves (except cotyledons) appear, the plants are planted (picked) to get good bushy plants. When purchasing at the market, you should avoid thickened, crowded seedlings in a box and give preference to isolated, developed, large plants, grown during picking.​

​gray rot;​

​manipulations to destroy pests;​

The distance between the bushes must be maintained at approximately 40-50 cm (although traditional agricultural technology advises making it smaller - from 20 to 25 cm). In general, it is possible individual approach, based on which variety you chose.​

nasotke.ru

How to grow remontant strawberries in your garden plot

​However, you should be prepared for the fact that planting remontant strawberries and further caring for them will require scrupulous attention from gardeners, since such varieties have a number of specific features.​ ​. Mulching the soil between the bushes will help reduce watering, as well as minimize labor costs for weeding and loosening.

Virtues of culture

When seedlings appear, move the containers to a lighted, sunny place. Do not allow the soil to dry out, ventilate the plantings regularly;

Remontant strawberries respond very well to good care. And, if you fulfill all the requirements of agricultural technology, which include proper planting and maintaining proper growing conditions, then the crop will reward the owner with large yields fragrant berries strawberries throughout the season.​

​protection from possible diseases and pests;​

How to plant remontant strawberries

​The photo shows what the correct and convenient scheme landing.​

​It is best to plant remontant strawberries in areas where the following crops were previously grown:

Planting methods

​Remontant strawberries are less winter-hardy than regular ones. Often, after overwintering, the bushes look completely dead, but you should not rush to remove them from the site. With the accumulation of heat, they can grow well from the rhizome and produce a full-fledged harvest. Plants of remontant strawberry plants in protected conditions are able to survive in winter and bear fruit for 2 - 3 or more years, but the best fruiting is in young one- and biennial plants.​

• ​stem nematode;​
• ​weeding and loosening the surface of the earth;​
• ​Planting of remontant strawberries should be done quite carefully. To facilitate further care and ensure good conditions For development, when planting seedlings, you need to take into account that if the deepening of the apical bud into the soil is too strong, this will affect the growth of the bushes - it will slow down. And with shallow planting, the roots will be exposed after watering and may begin to dry out, which will also adversely affect the development and growth of plants.​
• ​The main advantage of remontant strawberries is their characteristic continuous flowering and, accordingly, long-term fruiting and high yield. This feature of strawberries (bearing fruit throughout the summer season) was established by the work of breeders, thanks to which many gardeners can now realize their dream and grow a high-yielding crop in their garden.

Be sure to remove reddening leaves - this event rejuvenates the bushes. In addition, to get large, sweet berries, periodically trim the buds of the mustache after the first formed rosette. (This variety of strawberries tends to bear fruit on young rosettes formed from rooted tendrils). In the first year in the spring, strawberries need to be fed: 15 grams. ammonium nitrate, 15 g. potassium sulfate, 30 gr. superphosphate per square meter.​

After two weeks, pick up the seedlings, maintaining a distance of 3 cm between them;

​Remontant varieties lay buds during neutral and long daylight hours. When buying a seedling, be sure to pay attention to the NSD or DSD labeling, this will help you adhere to certain recommendations for growing.​

Landing process

​removal of reddening foliage and tendrils.​

Holes are made in the prepared area according to the chosen planting pattern. The depth of the holes should be about 10-15 cm. For convenience, you can use a small garden shovel. In general, the depth can be individual for each plant, because for mature seedlings with powerful long roots it is better to make the hole deeper so as not to damage the root system.​

​Beans;​

• ​Large-fruited remontant strawberries, in contrast to small-fruited remontant strawberries, have a number of significant features.​
• Leaf spotting;
• ​planting growing plantings, avoiding thickening.​

Before planting strawberries, the soil will need to be loosened well.

How to care for strawberries after planting

​The most successful planting of remontant strawberries is considered if it was carried out in an area where bulbous flowers (tulips, crocuses, hyacinths) or vegetables such as early cabbage, lettuce and cucumbers previously grew.

Rules for further care

​As winter approaches, reduce watering and sanitary pruning diseased leaves and tendrils. Remontant strawberries must experience frost, after which they are covered non-woven material. The beds are also covered with a variety of mulch: fallen leaves, sawdust, straw, hay. If this is the last fruiting season, then the old bushes need to be removed from the site before the first snow.

• ​In early May, plant seedlings in beds that have been previously cleared of weeds and filled with compost.​
• ​Remontant variety strawberries are distinguished by the fact that they can bloom and bear fruit repeatedly throughout the spring and autumn season. It is characterized by weaker foliage than garden strawberries, as well as fragility, the reason for which is the constant overload of crops.​
• ​So, now about this in order.​
• ​Experienced gardeners advise further making a hump in the hole so that when planting, all the roots of the bush can be carefully spread out on it.​
• ​Radish;​
• The size of its berries differs little from ordinary large-fruited varieties grown in open ground. It reproduces with the help of whiskers, but its remontant nature is different. If small-fruited strawberries bear fruit continuously from July until frost, then large-fruited remontant strawberries produce two harvests: the first in the usual time - in July, the second - more abundant - in late August - September. There are now many varieties of such strawberries in cultivation.​

Feeding

​late blight.​

​Remontant strawberries are preferable to grow because when propagated by seeds, you will be pleased with the harvest of aromatic berries in the same year. But in order to get excellent yield indicators when planting strawberries as seedlings, it is worth providing them with proper care in a timely manner - watering the plants and feeding them with fertilizers.​

Watering and mulching

​This is explained by the fact that the listed crops clear the land quite early, which allows it to be properly cared for: cultivate the soil and prepare it for planting strawberry seedlings.​

​Remontant strawberries, or remontant garden strawberries, have recently become increasingly popular both among summer residents and those who grow them on an industrial scale for sale. This plant is capable of producing two or even three harvests per season. Despite the fact that the bushes of this plant are somewhat smaller than those of ordinary strawberries, its berries are no worse in taste, and sometimes even better than the usual berries.​

Preparing the crop for wintering

​Reproduction by mustache

The plant requires more careful care

Strawberries require loosening of the root soil after watering and rain. This must be done to ensure normal conditions for the life of plant roots. Loosening should be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the tendrils and roots of the bushes. If the soil is mulched, there will be no need for regular loosening. Dry grass, sawdust or peat can be used as mulch.​

Detection of diseases and pests

​You can also sprinkle a little special powder around the roots, which promotes better rooting of plants. Then they are covered with soil, slightly compacting it. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the seedling’s root collar is located at the same level with the soil surface or slightly above it, as in the photo.​

• ​Mustard;​
• ​The potential of remontant large-fruited varieties is very great: they can produce a higher yield than conventional varieties, but sometimes only a small part of the second harvest ripens in open ground. Autumn frosts destroy flowers, green and ripening berries. Plants do not have time to prepare for winter and often die, but they can be protected by covering them with loose, dry material (straw, leaves, shavings, etc.) and a film on top.​
• ​For each of the above diseases, as well as against a number of others, there are many effective special medications on the market. All work on healing and processing bushes must be carried out after carefully studying the instructions for the drugs. And after treatment, do not eat strawberries for a few more days.
• ​The first procedures related to feeding strawberries can be carried out already in March, feeding them with nitrogen-type fertilizers, applying them directly to the layer of snow. The second feeding is mulching with mineral and organic fertilizers in April. The third and final feeding is usually carried out in September.​
• ​1 bucket of garden soil;​

​Planting of remontant strawberries can begin in the spring and last until the arrival of autumn. If you can carry out planting work in early spring (before the onset of arid heat with dry winds), then the results will be successful and you will be pleased with the harvest.​

A distinctive feature of remontant strawberries is the ability to quickly form young buds and form a new crop immediately after harvesting the previous one. A large harvest, and sometimes more than a few, is ensured by increased labor costs. Caring for this plant does not end with harvesting. It is interrupted only in winter.​

​If you plan to expand your strawberry plantations by rooting the growing mustache, then get ready to sacrifice the berries of the second harvest. It is best to plant new beds in July-August, this will allow the bushes to take root well and provide excellent harvest next year. Propagation by means of a mustache directly in the garden is the simplest and most easy way by labor costs.​

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​, frequent watering, fertile soil. The best varieties remontant strawberries: Albion, Lyubava, Queen Elizabeth II, Lord, Honey, Vima Rina, Selva and others.​
Remontant strawberries need more watering than regular strawberry varieties. Therefore, care in this regard should be performed more carefully.
The hole before planting, as well as the already planted bush, should be watered with a small amount of water. You can also watch a video about correct landing strawberries
​Parsley.​

Is it possible to use the high potential of remontant large-fruited varieties? There are years with a long, warm autumn without early frosts, when a significant part of the second harvest is taken from them? Can. To do this, it is necessary to accelerate the development of plants by artificially creating a higher temperature regime for them. This can be achieved by covering the plants with film in April. You can also use greenhouses in which tomatoes are grown. Temperature in a greenhouse for tomatoes, strawberries are most suitable. Growing tomatoes and strawberries can be combined. In this case, strawberries are grown as a compactor, not to the detriment of tomatoes in the so-called vertical culture. In June - July, after the harvest, the strawberries are removed from the greenhouse.​
​Methods of traditional agricultural technology also include spraying bushes with Bordeaux mixture and garlic-based infusions.​
​Undoubtedly, when fertilizing remontant strawberries, you should be extremely careful. If there is a need for additional feeding, you can use a little compost.​
​2 cups of wood ash;​

Large-fruited remontant strawberry

​Planting can also be done in the summer; in this case, the crop will be pleased with good yields next year. However, when planting strawberries in the summer season, during the post-planting period, it is worth spending a lot of time weeding and loosening the soil, as well as watering quite often. Most minimal care strawberries will be required if they are planted in the fall. You can learn about some of the features that remontant strawberries have, and which determine planting dates and conditions, by watching the video.​
​If there is no need to transplant strawberries to new beds in the fall, then it is best at this time to start preparing areas for future plantings in the spring. Strawberries are an aggressive crop; they can severely deplete the soil in a few years, so it is necessary to take care of good soil preparation.​
​During fruiting, mark the most developed and strong annual bushes with smooth, large berries. Select only the first tendrils and place them in small grooves along the side of the bed. Simply cut off all other tendrils that appear so that they do not weaken the mother bush. Soon sprouts will appear on the mustache and begin to take root. For propagation, leave the first rosettes: cut off the ends of the second-order tendrils, but do not separate them from the mother plant.​
The ability to set large fruits is retained in DSD bushes for no more than two years, then the berries become smaller, and growing strawberries no longer becomes advisable. NSD strawberries have an accelerated development cycle; they are grown for only one season. In addition, the crop is divided into large-fruited, which produces crops twice per season, and small-fruited, which continuously bears fruit until frost.​

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​It is especially necessary to water the crop at the stage of fruit ripening on the bushes, and when the outside temperature exceeds +30 degrees. The soil should be constantly moist to a depth of 2-3 cm from the surface. Mulch will retain moisture very well - the earth will always be moist and easily permeable.​

While we are looking forward to the strawberry season, we are saddened to watch it gradually come to an end. Preparations, jams and compotes have been made, strawberries have been frozen in freezers, whole and in the form of a smoothie, but nothing compares to the taste of fresh aromatic berries.

What is repairability?

This is a photo of strawberries at the end of August!

If an ordinary strawberry forms a peduncle, then another, lays buds, blooms and bears fruit, then the remontant one “knows how” to simultaneously lay peduncles, bloom and bear fruit.

In this case, it is divided into two types:

1. Some varieties bloom and bear fruit in waves (first, second, third) with short breaks.
2. Other varieties bloom and bear fruit continuously. At the same time, laying flower stalks, delighting with flowers and growing crops, strawberries delight them until late autumn, and sometimes, right with flowers and green berries, they go under the snow.

These properties can be inherent in the culture by nature, or they can be bred by breeders as a result of painstaking work.

Tricks

The fruiting period of remontant strawberries can be adjusted by removing flower stalks.

It is considered a trick of gardeners that during the period of mass production of strawberries (early, middle and late varieties), the peduncles of remontant ones are plucked out, thereby postponing fruiting to the period when the main shaft has already been harvested.

If ordinary varieties produce their harvest in 3–4 weeks, then the remontant variety stretches it out for 3–4 months, but this does not mean at all that the crop yield will be 3–4 times higher than the usual one.

However, in order to systematically distribute the harvest over time, it is necessary to distribute nutrients, which is why the technological process for obtaining berries is somewhat different than when growing varieties of short daylight hours.

Site selection and preparation

Red beets are a suitable predecessor for remontant strawberries.

Among the predecessors, it is better to give preference to green crops, such as lettuce, radishes, beets, etc. After nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants), you cannot plant a bed with strawberries.

The site is chosen to be sunny and level, without stagnant water. In southern latitudes, where heating is very intense, you can choose openwork shade under the trees.

It is better to choose loam or sandy loam soils with a slightly acidic or neutral reaction.

Garlic is often planted in a strawberry bed.

Autumn planting

For autumn planting, the site is prepared in the spring, for spring planting in the fall.

This will allow the soil to “mature” and balance, and the microflora will make all nutrients available for immediate absorption by the root system.

We scatter rotted manure around the site (a bucket per m2), fresh compost, stove ash (kilogram per m2), 20 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate per m2, and carefully dig everything up while freeing the area from weeds.

Spring planting

The bed is dug up in advance, fertilized and leveled, so that later you can simply make holes with a scoop and plant strawberry seedlings.

Spring plantings can begin from mid-May, and autumn plantings from late August to mid-September. The main condition for the success of the event will be high humidity: fog, drizzling rain, thick clouds - the best weather conditions for planting strawberry seedlings.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Freshly planted strawberries on our site.

When planning a garden bed on open ground, you need to decide in advance on the growing method.

Landings can be carried out:

• in rows. In this case, we maintain 20–25 cm, and 60–70 between rows;
• carpet. With this method, a plot of 20–25x20–25 cm is planted.

Landing scheme.

If natural precipitation is rare in your region, plan ahead for the possibility drip irrigation. The “drop” system can be laid both before and after planting.

• Since remontant strawberries are constantly selected, it is better to give preference, for convenience. ordinary method .
• so that the roots are straightened and the middle is above the soil surface after watering. If the water has pulled down a little, you can lift the bush and then water it.
• If the plot is planted in the spring, then by autumn you will be able to enjoy the first harvest. At autumn planting next season, starting in summer, you will be provided with aromatic berries.

Care

Mulching makes it easier to care for strawberries and keeps the berries clean.

Strawberries absorb liquid fertilizers faster.

Strawberries begin their growing season early. Root system is located shallowly, and heating upper layers soil already promotes the germination of green shoots. During this planting period. To do this, dissolve 2 tbsp in a bucket of water. spoons ammonium nitrate and pour under each bush 200–250 g .

The second feeding should be done a little later, during the period when the flower stalks begin to extend. Fertilize during this period with the same mineral fertilizers and in the same doses.

After the first fruiting, nutrients were removed, but strawberry bushes no longer needed nitrogen fertilizers for the growth of vegetative mass, but phosphorus-potassium fertilizers needed to be replenished.

Features of remontant strawberries

If ordinary strawberries can use stove ash, then remontant strawberries require quick minerals during the fruiting period that will help renew fruiting buds.

For this purpose, you can use potassium sulfate and superphosphate. There is no point in scattering dry granules under bushes. Fertilizers must act immediately and are best dissolved.

Dissolve 50 g of the mentioned fertilizers in a bucket of water and add them under each bush in a volume of 200–250 ml.

Pre-irrigation

Drip irrigation of strawberries.

Fertilizing strawberries cannot be done without prior irrigation. Only thorough watering will help absorb nutrients and start the renewal mechanism.

Third feeding

At the end of summer, remontant strawberries are fed with wood ash.

The third feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be carried out in late August - early September, and in late autumn 10-15 g of stove ash can be added under the bushes. Minerals, left over from burning plant residues, contains a fairly large range of chemical elements useful for strawberries.

Autumn rains and meltwater will bring minerals to the root system, and they will be fully available by the next season.

Pork, horse, cow ripened humus mandatory component fertilizing . You can spread it along the rows in the fall. One bucket will be enough per m2. If such organic matter is not available, then you need to use compost; its beneficial microflora has already made the plant residues digestible and will continue to work under the bushes.

In early spring, old leaves are removed from the bushes.

Trimming green foliage on remontant strawberries is not practiced, but in the spring, it is necessary to carefully trim the old one, last year's foliage, thus cleaning the bed.

Conclusion

A remontant strawberry plantation does not last long. After using it for 2–3 years, grow seedlings and plant the next row in a new place. In this case, your strawberries will be especially productive and tasty.

Video about the features of caring for remontant strawberries

Summer worries for a summer resident go on in an endless series. Caring for remontant strawberries after the first harvest is often overshadowed by other urgent matters, but to do without it means to question the future harvest.

The first harvest of remontant strawberries, although not the most abundant, takes a lot of energy from the plant, so by the end of the first fruiting the bush is fairly exhausted.

Helping the berry grower recover, gain strength and produce new berries is the gardener’s task, which should not be neglected.

Features of remontant strawberries

Remontant varieties, with proper care, produce most of the berries during the second harvest, in late July-August. Some gardeners deliberately sacrifice the first harvest, cutting off flowers in order to preserve the plant's strength for the second fruiting.

But not everyone decides to make such a sacrifice, because the first berries have a special taste, and there are still few other fruits at this time. Therefore, after the first harvest, attention to the plant should be doubled.

First of all, you need to take into account that after the end of fruiting, strawberries begin to quickly grow new leaves and lay flower buds. At the same time, the rapid growth of whiskers begins, which tend to crawl away from the bush and take root. Such activity, especially after picking berries, requires additional feeding and care.

What to do after harvest

Dying old leaves and tangled growths of new foliage and tendrils often create a feeling of chaos in a strawberry patch. Covering the bed with artificial mulch - black spunbond or agrospan - greatly facilitates the care of remontant strawberries:

• there is no need for loosening;
• the roots of the bushes are not exposed when watering;
• the soil does not dry out;
• berries do not suffer from gray rot;
• unnecessary whiskers do not take root.

If the bed is not covered with mulch, then care should begin after the first harvest by loosening it. This needs to be done as quickly as possible, before the bushes have time to grow too much. When weeding and loosening, you should try to cover the roots of the strawberry bushes with soil.

How to feed strawberry bushes

The next step should be feeding. Many summer residents use herbal infusions to fertilize strawberries; nettle infusion is especially effective in this regard. Two-thirds of the barrel is filled with crushed young nettles, dandelion leaves, and honeydew, while removing the inflorescences so as not to spread the weeds throughout the garden bed. Then fill it with water, cover it with a lid and leave it in the sun for a week.

The result is a horribly smelly black liquid that effectively replaces manure when feeding. It should be diluted with water at the rate of 1:10.

It should be noted that I really like strawberries yeast feeding. Therefore, many summer residents combine these two types of feeding by adding yeast to the herbal infusion. True, you need to make sure that fermentation does not squeeze the infusion out of the barrel.

In beds covered with artificial mulch, fertilizing is done by watering into the cuts that were made when planting the bush. Fertilizing combined with regular watering should be done until mid-August. Watering must be done throughout the summer.

Some gardeners, after the first harvest, cut off part of the rapidly growing foliage of remontant strawberries, citing the fact that the bush’s strength will be directed to the formation of flower stalks. But many believe that this weakens the bush, since plants receive nutrition not only from the root part, but also from the leaves, and photosynthesis is an important component of plant development.

Therefore, most gardeners still leave new foliage alone, limiting themselves to removing yellowed and dying leaves from the bottom of the bush.

Do I need to remove my mustache?

And finally, often The debate is sparked by the need to remove the tendrils of remontant strawberries after harvesting the first harvest. The tendrils actually appear and grow at a high speed, robbing the plant of a lot of strength that it needs to form a second harvest.

However, new bushes rooted from the tendrils produce additional yield. That is why the second harvest of remontant strawberries is distinguished by such an abundance of berries. But many experienced summer residents note that you should expect berries only from the first whiskers, which can be easily identified by the length of the whiskers.

All subsequent mustaches, as a rule, grow barren bushes from which you will not get a harvest this year. Therefore, when growing remontant varieties, it is worth leaving the first tendrils, ruthlessly removing the subsequent ones, in order to save the plant’s energy for producing berries. If the bed is covered with agrospan, then the powerful first tendrils can be used for replanting and forming a new bed next year.

When to replace strawberry bushes

It should be noted that a clear division into periods of fruiting during the summer exists only for remontant strawberries of long daylight hours, the so-called DSD. Such varieties, with care and fertilizing, are able to restore strength between harvests, and therefore are able to bear fruit for two to three years.

Day-neutral strawberries, the so-called NSD, produce berries constantly throughout the summer, but, when exhausted, bear fruit for only one season, after which they need to be replaced. Caring for such remontant strawberries does not have clearly defined processing periods and consists of regular loosening, watering and feeding with herbal infusions.

Remontant varieties of strawberries are in demand among all lovers of this plant. This is due to the ability to obtain several harvests per year from one bush. The first harvest in this case will ripen in July. The largest harvest can be obtained at the end of summer - it is at this time that from 60 to 90% of the berries fall. Such strawberries are easily grown on the balcony, in pots and can bear fruit with proper care all year round at home.

What are remontant strawberries and how are they different from others?

Remontability is the ability of some plants to bloom and produce crops several times a year. After the first ripening of the fruits, flower buds are formed again. Such bushes often have a weaker leaf system, but the berries are very large.

Peculiarities! If the second harvest is more important, it is worth sacrificing the first. To do this, it is enough to trim the first flower stalks. This technique will preserve the bush’s ability to produce abundant fruit at the end of summer.

Remontant strawberries are grown in greenhouses, and even on the balcony. This way you can get abundant and constant fruiting even from 2 - 3 bushes growing in pots.

Features of remontant garden strawberries

• Fruits are set not only on mother plants, but also on young plants;
• Most varieties are large-fruited (all fruits are from 50 to 100 grams);
• Rapid aging of bushes;
• Some large-fruited varieties may have smaller berries next year.

To ensure constant fruiting throughout the season, it is worth combining remontant and regular varieties.

Photo of remontant strawberries

Queen Elizabeth 2

Alexandri

Baron Solemacher

Types of remontant strawberries

The repairability of garden strawberries directly depends on the time when buds are laid on the bushes. More precisely, on the length of daylight hours. In most varieties, buds are laid in the fall. At this time, daylight hours are shortened. In remontant varieties, flower buds are formed regardless of the length of daylight hours. In the same year, by the end of summer, the bushes bear fruit for the second time.

Reference! Remontant strawberries form flower buds even during neutral daylight hours. These are the so-called NSD varieties.

For remontant varieties, the stages of care should be calculated for a modified growing season.

Long daylight hours

Remontant long-day strawberries lay flower buds when the daylight hours are 16 hours.

This occurs in mid-May - early June. At this time, the formation of the ovary occurs simultaneously.

This is the kind of strawberry that can produce 2 harvests. The first fruiting occurs in June, and the second at the end of summer.

Attention! DSD varieties during the second harvest are capable of producing up to 90% of the annual harvest. This is possible if the bushes are mature and strong.

It's worth remembering that With each subsequent season, plant productivity decreases. To do this, you will need to frequently update the bushes to be young and strong.

Short daylight hours

These are varieties in which flower buds are formed in the fall. This allows you to harvest early fruits as early as June. It is easy to propagate because mature bushes have many tendrils. But, as a rule, they are less common than remontant varieties.

With and without mustaches

According to the method of propagation, remontant strawberries are divided into:

• With a mustache;
• Without mustache (or mustacheless varieties).

The most convenient way to propagate strawberries is with a mustache. It begins to produce a harvest within a few months after planting. Beardless strawberries are less common because they can reproduce exclusively by seeds.

Peculiarities! Bearded varieties are more resistant to diseases and insects. They look neat in the garden because they don’t grow.

Landing

Features of growing remontant varieties:

1. For planting, it is best to choose open, sunny areas;
2. Fertile, well-loosened soil.

It is grown by pre-sowing seedlings. This is done in February or early March. In May, after the risk of late frosts disappears, the stronger seedlings can be planted in open ground.

Peculiarities! To get a good harvest, the land on the site needs to be prepared in the fall. Mineral and organic fertilizers, after which they dig deep.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

To save as long as possible beneficial features remontant varieties of strawberries, propagation by mustaches is best suited. But this is not always possible, since some varieties do not have a mustache at all. The only way to get young plants is to grow seedlings.

Seeds

This is the most the hard way growing remontant strawberries. But it allows you to get a large number of young and healthy bushes.

In the case of alpine, or beardless garden strawberries, this is practically the only method of propagation.

To propagate by seeds, it is worth collecting the largest and sweetest berries of the variety you like. From them you can get seeds, which are planted for seedlings in late February or early March.

Usami

Propagation by tendrils produces many young plants throughout the season.

This is especially important for remontant varieties that quickly age and require replacement.

To do this, you need to carefully observe the appearance of sockets. Only 2 - 3 of them are left on the mustache, as close as possible to the mother bush.

Attention! Weak tendrils need to be removed promptly, as they weaken an actively fruiting plant.

In other ways

There is another method vegetative propagation remontant strawberries. This could be dividing bushes. It is used only when there is an urgent need to obtain seed. For propagation, only strong and healthy bushes can be used.

Attention! This method of propagation is not suitable for all remontant varieties.

Care

Abundant fruiting twice a season greatly exhausts the bushes. Because of this, plants need especially careful care. It needs to start in early spring, after the snow has melted. You need to remove the old mulch and carefully inspect the beds. If there are exposed fibrous roots, they need to be spudded. Then loosen the soil in the area and mulch it with small sawdust.

Watering

Garden strawberries need abundant watering throughout the growing season.

The top layer of soil must be kept constantly moist, without dried soil “crust”.

It is best to pour water into the grooves between the rows. Or you can water the plants with a hose, simulating rain.

Transfer

Replanting in autumn is especially important for large-fruited varieties.

After 1 - 2 years, depletion occurs, as a result of which the berries become smaller. Frequently moving to a new area will also prevent pests living in the soil from accumulating.

Peculiarities: It is advisable to carry out the transplant before the beginning of September. This will allow the bushes to fully prepare for winter.

For this:

1. Dig the area to the depth of a spade bayonet, remove all roots of weeds;
2. Add 1 bucket of humus and 30 grams of phosphorus fertilizer per square meter to the ground;
3. Harrow with a rake and leave the area for 14 days;
4. Mark the area, then dig holes up to 20 centimeters deep;
5. Transfer the plants into the holes using the transshipment method and cover with soil;
6. Mulch the bed with sawdust.

After this, the bed with the transplanted plants is watered abundantly.

Top dressing

Bushes of remontant varieties are greatly weakened by abundant fruiting during the season. To correct the situation, liquid fertilizer is used:

• Urea;
• Bird droppings;
• Slurry.

It is applied in early June, before flowering. The dosage of the drug is 10 liters per 1 square meter.

Wintering

Preparation for winter includes:

1. Trimming dry leaves and tendrils;
2. Mulching with straw, peat or dry leaves.

DSD varieties are often exposed to early frosts. This leads to the loss of part of the harvest. If there is a risk of early cooling in September, they are grown under covering material. It is best to use spunbond for this. The bushes can be watered without removing the cover.

Features of growing in open ground

Remontant strawberries have their own special agrotechnical conditions:

• Particular sensitivity to soil quality and watering;
• The growth cycle of remontant varieties is a maximum of 2-3 years;
• The best neighbors for strawberries are carrots, garlic, peas, lettuce, radishes and beans.

It is not advisable to plant remontant varieties of garden strawberries next to potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers.

Peculiarities! Landed between strawberry beds garlic will protect the crop from slugs or snails.

Popular varieties

The most common varieties of remontant strawberries:

There are also hybrid varieties, intended for growing in greenhouses or on the balcony.

Why doesn't it bloom or bear fruit?

But what to do if the strawberries don’t bear fruit? These may be the following reasons:

1. Degeneration of plants. After a maximum of 3 years, the plants stop blooming. This leads to the need to renew the bushes every 2 - 3 years.
2. Too late transplanting into open ground in the fall. This leads to the fact that the plant does not have time to adapt. Next year the flowering will be very weak and the berries will be small;
3. Excessive penetration into the ground during planting. This leads to a sharp decrease in the number of berries;
4. Lack of nitrogenous compounds. Leads to weakening of leaves. Effective prevention in this case is regular watering with an aqueous solution of ammonia;
5. Lack of sunlight. This leads to weakening of the bushes, which means a decrease in yield.

Another one common reason– these are late frosts in May. To avoid this problem, you need to cover the beds with film or spunbond.

Strawberries on the balcony and windowsill all year round

Remontant varieties are best suited for growing on the balcony.

This allows you to get big harvest from 2 – 3 bushes. Climbing and large-fruited varieties are ideal for this.

They not only bear fruit abundantly, but also look good. Growing remontant strawberries consists of the following stages:

1. Sowing seeds for seedlings. To do this, you can use a ready-made nutrient mixture or prepare it yourself. Seeds are sown in boxes with it. After 2–3 leaves appear, the seedlings are planted.
2. Landing on permanent place. Strong seedlings are transplanted into hanging flowerpots, baskets or boxes.

Care is almost the same as in open ground. In October - November, flowerpots or baskets can be left on a glassed, warm balcony. In the self-care program, only moderate watering is required; no feeding is necessary. This will provide the plant with proper rest during the dormant period and a good harvest for the next year.

Diseases and pests

The most common diseases of garden strawberries:

• Powdery mildew;
• Black rot;
• Gray and white rot;
• Root rot;
• Withering;
• Mottling;
• Mosaic.

Another problem is insects:

The best control measure is timely prevention.

It includes regularly replanting bushes and planting plants with an unpleasant odor for insects next to the beds. Severely affected plants are also removed to prevent the problem from spreading.

Conclusion

Remontant strawberries are capable of bearing fruit throughout the season - from May to October. But this pace greatly weakens the bushes, which is why these varieties require especially careful care. The life cycle of remontant bushes is quite short. It does not exceed 2 - 3 years, and some bushes die immediately after harvest.

Useful video

Find out more about remontant strawberry varieties from the video below: