Secrets of installing utilities in a bathhouse. Water supply for a bathhouse and a house from one well Hot water supply for a bathhouse in winter

It is difficult to imagine a country house without a bathhouse or sauna. Relax, take a steam bath, relieve fatigue, or use the bathhouse as a temporary home during the construction of the main house - there are many options for use. It is not surprising that interest in the topic among FORUMHOUSE users is growing year after year.

Our portal has already described in detail where to place it on the site, how to decorate the steam room. Let's continue the topic we started. From our material you will learn:

• What engineering communications are needed.
• How to install a simple and budget water supply system.
• What nuances need to be taken into account when installing electrical equipment?

Nuances of installation and selection of utilities in the bathhouse

Without properly constructed communications - water supply (option - we carry water from a well, we do not consider), electricity, ventilation, sewerage and drainage, normal use of the bathhouse is impossible. At the same time, due to the specific operating conditions of a bathhouse or sauna, which means high humidity and temperature, special requirements for safety of use and durability are imposed on utility networks.

In addition, at the design stage it is necessary to decide whether the bathhouse will be a free-standing structure, or whether we will limit ourselves to building a simple sauna inside the house.

Practice shows that most often a bathhouse is built as a separate washing and bathing complex. There are options for relatively simple baths/saunas, as well as complex and expensive structures (with a SPA area and a swimming pool) used for relaxation and entertainment events.

Regardless of the use of the bathhouse, we remember the main rule: first, a project is made (based on the preferences of the owner and the expected operating mode of the “wet” room).

Now we calculate the required volume of water consumption, and also determine the required number of water collection points. This is a shower or shower stall, a sink with a mixer, a washing machine connection point, a toilet supply, a storage tank, etc.

If an electric heater is supposed to be the heat source, we calculate whether the electrical network can withstand the additional load. Do not forget about the water heater for preparing hot water, and this is also an additional load on the electrical network.

We think in advance about how to supply electricity (underground or air) and water to the bathhouse. Is the well flow sufficient, how to dispose of wastewater, will the septic tank cope with the massive discharge of water, or is it necessary to design the separation of wastewater, etc.

Only after collecting all the necessary data and estimating the approximate number of people who will use the bathhouse, you can proceed to the design of utility networks and the actual construction of the bathhouse.

This approach - careful planning - will allow you to avoid costly alterations in the future, when the bathhouse/sauna has already been built. For example, it turns out that the electrical wiring and machines do not pull the connected electrical equipment, there are not enough points for, and the pump power is not enough to quickly fill a font or pool with water.

There are many features; you can write a separate article for each of them. Those wishing to find answers to the above questions are recommended to read the articles: and observe all boundaries from the treatment plant to other objects on the site, and.

Go ahead. Let's take, for example, an ordinary “budget” bathhouse - a wooden structure made of timber or logs. It is necessary to install a water supply system and conduct electrical wiring. You need to understand: what basic moments pay attention to arrange high-quality engineering communications.

Installation of water supply in a bathhouse

The first thing you should think about when designing a water supply system in a bathhouse is its operating mode - year-round or seasonal. If you do not plan to use the bathhouse in winter, or it is intended to be started only on weekends, it is necessary to ensure that water is drained from the pipes and from the plumbing fixtures (for example, the toilet). If this is not done, then at subzero temperatures the water will freeze and may burst the pipes.

Our users solve this problem in different ways.

Kolek2575 Member FORUMHOUSE

I plan to install a stove with a water heat exchanger on a pipe in the bathhouse. Frosts here reach -30°C. I haven't decided what to do with the water yet. If you leave it, it will tear it apart. Drain every time?

According to experienced participants, there can be two options: either drain the water, or prevent the bathhouse from freezing. For example, on the advice Dokainfo, We use a self-regulating heating cable.

After completing the bath procedures, the water is drained from the heating tank and shower cabin. To ensure that water flows freely into the well, we install a check valve on the submersible pump.

When installing such a system, we provide the necessary slopes of the pipes so that the water flows freely by gravity.

But the heating cable presents additional installation difficulties. Power outages are also possible. If a pumping station is used to create pressure in the water supply system, then the hydraulic accumulator becomes the bottleneck. If you visit the bathhouse infrequently in winter, you will also have to drain the water from it or completely dismantle the station and store it in a warm room.

Interesting are the methods of water supply for baths that users of our portal use in the winter.

Sanap User FORUMHOUSE

In the summer, to provide the bathhouse with water, I use a pumping station + an electric water heater is installed. As soon as the temperature drops below zero, I drain all the water from the water supply, and in winter I use imported water to operate the bathhouse. For 2-3 people, 50-70 liters are enough to wash. For contrasting procedures, we wipe ourselves with snow.

Also interesting is the user's experience with the nickname 8k84r. The water supply for the bathhouse is done this way - water is pumped from the well by a submersible pump. Above the steam room, in a heated room, a hydraulic accumulator is mounted, as well as an electric storage boiler for heating water in the summer. Plus an open system with a tank, fed from a hydraulic accumulator.

Upon departure, all taps are opened and the water is drained into the sewer. Turn off the pump and air the pump line. Everything takes about 5 minutes. When we arrive, we flood the bathhouse, close the taps and turn on the power to the pump.

For clarity, we offer a diagram of the bath water supply system from Putnik2008.

Note: to heat water, a copper pipe is used, bent into a spiral, which is laid on the stones of an electric heater.

A 30 liter canister is used as a storage tank.

Putnik2008 User FORUMHOUSE

Also, for a simple bathhouse plumbing scheme, you can mount a 200-liter container in the “attic,” which will provide sufficient water pressure when you open the tap, or to wash in the shower. After completing the bath procedures, we leave the tap open for 15 minutes while the water flows by gravity back into the well, but such a Spartan system, of course, is not suitable for everyone.

The bottleneck of the gravity system, with irregular use of the bathhouse in winter, may be the depth of freezing, which depends on the region. To prevent the pipeline from freezing, it is laid below the freezing depth, a heating cable is used, or it is insulated.

The article describes how to make a simple and effective winter water supply that will not freeze at sub-zero temperatures and does not require a heating cable.

Features of installing electrical wiring in a bathhouse

A complete water supply system for a bathhouse is impossible without a reliable power supply to the pump, which provides the necessary water pressure in the water supply. In addition: lighting, electrical appliances used in the bathhouse, water heaters, etc., also need to be connected to the electrical network.

Moreover, unlike an ordinary home, a bathhouse/sauna is a place with high humidity and temperatures, which means that special requirements are imposed on the electrical network to guarantee its safe operation.

T0lyanych User FORUMHOUSE

A bathhouse is a wet room, therefore the wiring in the bathhouse is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the PUE for saunas, bathrooms and showers.

Hence: in the steam room and in the washing room there should be no electrical appliances such as a washing machine, sockets, junction boxes or switches. This equipment is located in the recreation room, and a separate wire goes to each light bulb (in a splash-proof housing) in the steam room and wash room. If an electric heater is used for heating, then to connect it we use a solid cable coming from the distribution panel located in the rest room or dressing room.

According to the PUE, clause 7.1.40. In saunas for zones 3 and 4 in accordance with GOST R 50571.12-96 "Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 703. In rooms containing sauna heaters", electrical wiring with a permissible insulation temperature of 170 ° C must be used.

We choose special lamps/lamps - sealed, designed for use in damp rooms. The seal between the base and the lampshade should be made of heat-resistant silicone, and not rubber, which can crumble when exposed to high temperatures.

The degree of protection of the lamp is IP54. A distribution board, all switches, sockets and pumping stations are installed in the rest room. In addition to preventing electrical shock, this will help prevent premature equipment failure due to corrosion caused by moisture in the washroom.

T0lyanych

Do not forget about installing a separate grounding near the bathhouse, even if the main grounding is installed in the house.

These are the basics of installing electrics in a bathhouse. Let's move on to practice. As experience shows, the greatest number of questions are raised by the choice of electric cable for the bathhouse, the method of its wiring, as well as safe options for electric lighting of the washing room and steam room.

There are several ways to organize water supply for a bathhouse from a well. They have different levels of complexity, cost and provide different degrees of comfort. But they all have one thing in common: since usually baths are not used constantly, but periodically, the entire water supply system must be protected from freezing in the winter. There are only two solutions: either ensure a constant positive temperature (heat the bathhouse constantly) or make sure that there is nothing to freeze in the pipes and other devices, i.e. ensure that water is drained from the system and devices.

The organization of water supply for bathhouses and cottages can be done in different ways. There are very simple options that require a minimum of money and time for organization; there are more complex ones, but they provide a greater level of comfort.

The easiest and most economical way

The simplest option is to lower a submersible pump into the well (without a check valve), run the pipes through the air, but so that they are not horizontal, but have a slope either towards the well or towards the bathhouse. Important: there should be no taps or other shut-off devices along the entire length of this pipeline.

When turned on, the pump pumps water. While the water rises through the pipes and reaches the building, some time passes (depending on the depth of the water mirror and the distance to it, the power of the pump). When the container (bucket or tank) is almost full, the pump is turned off. The water remaining in the pipes partially flows into the container, and partially back into the well.

This system provides minimal convenience, but it is very simple and functions without failures even in winter. All that is needed for its performance in the winter is something that you can do yourself, spending a little time, money and effort.

With console pump

There is a more complex scheme, but also not particularly expensive, but providing a higher level of comfort. It uses a cantilever pump.

In the diagram, it is installed in a bathhouse (or in a house in the country), and wiring already goes from it. This scheme of water supply from a well will be good provided that the water level in the well is not lower than 5 meters and the water flows well enough. At greater depths, you will have to be tricky - fill the suction pipeline with water to the level of the console pump, which will create better conditions for its operation and water will be able to flow from a depth of up to 7 meters.

To ensure the operation of such a water supply system in winter, it is necessary to insulate the canopy for the well. The pipe exit from the well (sealed) must be made below the level to which the soil freezes in winter in your region. At the same level, lead the pipeline to the entrance to the room and there raise it to the pump.

To prevent pipes from freezing in the event of abnormal cold weather and soil freezing below the average, it is better to wrap them with thermal insulation materials or lay them deeper than the freezing point. Both options have their drawbacks: you either need to dig deeper than 1.5 meters (the usual freezing depth for the middle zone), which you don’t really want, or spend money on thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.

One of the options for maintaining the temperature of the pipeline in winter is to use a heating electric cable, but in this case you must have a guaranteed power source, which, alas, is not always realistic for rural areas. Costs are costs, but replacing the entire pipeline after winter is much worse. So it is advisable to take one of the measures.

With storage tank in the attic

One of the varieties of such a scheme involves installing a storage tank for water in the attic, in the attic, etc. This option is good because after pumping water into the tank, you can turn off the pump, and the water will flow into the comb by gravity. But in order to prevent water from freezing in the pipes or in the tank in an unheated room in winter, you need to make a pipe to drain the water. It is advisable to take it back into the well, or into the sewer system - as you decide for yourself. In this option, you will need to think through everything carefully so that the amount of water in the valve pipes is minimal.

With water-air tank, hydraulic accumulator and control system

For those who do not want to endure absolutely no restrictions on comfortable conditions, there are more complex schemes using modern equipment. This . They maintain constant pressure in the system, they can lift water from any depth, the main thing is to choose the right pump. Moreover, these systems can also pump water from a centralized water supply system, which is necessary if the system is worn out and the pressure in the network is low.

Scheme of water supply from a well with a hydraulic accumulator

What pipes to use for water supply from a well

When organizing water supply for a cottage or bathhouse, it is important to choose the right pipes. They should be:

• Safe, especially if you use the water for drinking.
• Durable, since most of the pipeline is laid below the soil freezing level, replacement entails a large amount of work.
• They tolerated temperature changes well.
• Easy to install and repair.

Previously, only metal pipes were used. There were no other options. But, firstly, they rust quickly, and secondly, installation and replacement are only possible with a welding machine. Today there are other options.

Polypropylene pipes for water supply

In order for the water supply to serve for a long time and properly, the best option for a summer house and bathhouse is polypropylene pipes. They feel great at low temperatures; when connecting them, rubber or other gaskets are not used, which over time lose their elasticity and require replacement. They do not emit any harmful substances, do not rot or oxidize, are not damaged by fungi and microorganisms, and manufacturers claim a service life of about 50 years.

But. Polypropylene pipes require special equipment for welding. A special soldering iron is used to heat the pipe. When heated, it is quickly connected to an angle, tee, tap, etc. Important: do not make any rotational movements when welding. This is especially true for reinforced pipes. After connecting, give it a couple of minutes to cool and you can continue assembling the water supply further. The device is not very expensive, and you don’t have to buy it. You can rent a soldering iron for polypropylene from almost any company that sells polypropylene pipes.

Another good thing about polypropylene pipes is that they are available for both cold and hot water. That is, the internal wiring of the water comb in the room can also be made from the same material. Another plus: a flat and smooth outer surface, which is easy to care for and does not require painting.

Polyethylene

To supply cold water (it cannot be used for hot water), HDPE pipes are often used - low-pressure polyethylene. They have practically the same characteristics as polypropylene (they are not afraid of frost, do not rot and are not susceptible to fungi, but at the same time they are environmentally friendly), but they have one big advantage: they can not only be welded, but also use detachable fittings. This is much more convenient, does not require special equipment, and repair/replacement becomes easier. Watch the video to see how to connect HDPE pipes.

But, on the other hand, detachable fittings mean there is a high probability of leaks. Therefore, they try to plan the pipeline so that all collapsible fittings are in accessible places and not underground.

Insulation and pressure compensation

When laying pipes (polyethylene or polypropylene - it doesn’t matter), it is advisable to take measures to compensate for soil pressure. If your soils are heaving, this is a must. You need to lay the pipe (preferably with insulation, but possible without) in a corrugated hose of larger diameter. It will, firstly, serve as thermal insulation, and secondly, protect against excess pressure.

There is also Energoflex tubular insulation, using which you can solve the issue of thermal insulation in one fell swoop and protect pipes from excessive loads.

Insulation for water supply pipes "Energoflex"

Recommendation based on personal experience: buy pipes and all corner tees and taps in one place, preferably located near the house/bathhouse. Why? Because even professionals rarely manage to perfectly calculate the entire circuit at once, so during the installation process you will have to buy, change, return something more than once, and sometimes more than twice. Therefore, immediately upon purchase, find out how and what you can/will need to do to exchange and return parts of the plumbing system.

Well insulation

Preventing the water mirror from freezing is not very difficult - the water in the depths always has positive temperatures and all that is required is to prevent the cold from coming from outside. Thermal insulation of a well includes two components - insulation of the shaft and the installation of a protective house on the surface.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a concrete well

To insulate a well from the outside, you need to choose a material that does not absorb water. Typically polystyrene or foam is used. These materials are inexpensive, durable and chemically neutral. Although there is one “but” - they are afraid of ultraviolet radiation - they are destroyed under its influence. This problem is easily solved: a well house is built around the insulation, or the outside of the material is lined with finishing material.

A simpler and faster option is to apply two layers of paint to polystyrene or foam. In this case, you cannot use acetone paints: they corrode these materials. If the well is round in shape, you can use polystyrene foam “shells” - products of a semicircular shape. All that remains is to select the appropriate diameter, connect the parts of the shell, and seal the joint with reinforced tape. If there is no such “shell” of a suitable size, you can cut polystyrene/foam sheets into strips and attach them to well rings.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the well with polystyrene foam: at the top there is a finished “shell”, at the bottom there is slab material cut into pieces

Thermal insulating material should be laid slightly below the soil freezing level in your region. To do this, dig a well to a given depth, install protection, and secure it with tape or any other fastener you can think of. To protect against the effects of water, you can wrap the entire structure on top of the insulation a couple of times with plastic film (it can also be secured with tape). Next, you need to either build a wooden house for the well, or lay finishing materials - your choice.

There is another option for insulating a well - foamed polyurethane foam. This mixture is applied at positive temperatures (from +20 o C to +30 o C) using a special device. This mixture is inexpensive, as are the services for its application, but has the advantage that the material fills all cracks and defects in concrete rings, extending their service life. The downside of this material is the unpresentable appearance of the treated surface, but this can be eliminated by exterior finishing or building a house for the well.

Cover/house for well

Regardless of the complexity of the water supply system that you will install in your bathhouse, the well must be equipped with a warm house, or at least an insulated lid. This is necessary to, firstly, prevent dust/dirt/leaves, etc. from getting into the well, and secondly, to prevent the water from freezing in severe frosts. Wooden wells do not need insulation - wood itself serves as an excellent heat insulator, but wells made of concrete rings need to be insulated.

To maintain a positive temperature in the well, some craftsmen lower a boiler equipped with a thermal relay into the water, which is set to operate at +1°C. At this temperature, the boiler turns on, heats the upper layers of water and turns off. But such a scheme is realistic with a guaranteed power supply. Power outages for 5-8 hours in cold weather, and that’s it, the water will freeze.

It is more troublesome, but also more reliable - during construction, insulate the rings of the well from the outside, to the depth of freezing of the soil or slightly below (just in case) and build a well-insulated house for the well on top.

There are two types of houses:

Cover for a well made of wood

It is also made from wood - the board is taken quite thick (about 50 mm). It’s even easier to build a lid for a well with your own hands than a house. The outer part can be square or round. Choose the sizes to suit your taste, but they must exceed the diameter of the well.

The cover usually consists of two layers of boards laid perpendicularly (at 90°). The inner part must exactly match the shape and size of the well ring and fit tightly into it, blocking access to cold air.

Often, in order not to raise and lower it every time you need a bucket of water, a door is made in the lid on hinges (the door should tilt completely - this is more convenient).

A canopy, a well cover and external insulation with finishing are good protection from frost

In addition to the lid, you can make a canopy for the well. This way the structure becomes even more attractive, and the roof, although small, protects both the well and the person who collects water from precipitation or sun rays in the heat.

conclusions

Building a well near the bathhouse is still half the battle. It is also necessary to properly supply the water from it to the bathhouse and insulate the well to prevent the formation of an ice plug in the winter.

The main problem of water supply in a bathhouse is its supply to the room. Heating is carried out using a boiler, purification is carried out using filters. The flow of liquid must be properly arranged so that there is normal pressure and there is no freezing in winter. It’s worth familiarizing yourself with it in order to equip everything yourself if necessary. The water supply in the bathhouse will have to be installed in any case. It is important to choose a type that is suitable for the given operating conditions and is user-friendly.

Bath water sources

When designing a bathhouse, it is important to understand which water supply and type of system is best to use. There are the following methods of supplying liquid:

1. From the well.
2. Conducting plumbing.
3. Punching a well.

The simplest option is to carry out a centralized water supply, such as that installed in the home. Here you will need to obtain permission from the service involved in supplying liquid to the house, and then perform the following steps:

1. Install the pipes in the bathhouse yourself and install the necessary equipment.
2. Understand the water supply system in the area where you plan to install water.
3. Run a pipe from the central water channel to the bathhouse and connect the equipment.
4. Turn on the system.

Well water

The well was used to supply water to the bathhouse most often in winter and summer. If possible, you can dig a separate hole specifically for the structure, or use an existing one. It will cost little, but this method is distinguished by reliability and simplicity. This type of fluid supply scheme also has negative sides:

1. During rains or floods, if the liquid is shallow, it may be dirty.
2. The fluid level is not constant and fluctuations are possible.

It is best to construct the walls of a well from rings of concrete. The fastenings are in grooves so that when groundwater and the earth itself move, they do not bend. It is imperative to additionally seal the joints so that the water does not become contaminated due to soil falling outside the rings. The bottom should be covered with crushed stone and lined with geotextiles. Thus, a good filter will come out so that the liquid is at least partially cleaned.

Well for water supply

Wells can be divided into the following types:

1. Sandy. They are made at a depth of up to 30 meters. Water can become clogged with sand, which is why it is necessary to install filters. It can be done quickly and not very expensive. The disadvantage is that over time the liquid will come with more and more silt, the water may run out, since it is impossible to predict how much of it is on a given layer.
2. Artesian. They are done deep, reaching clean water at a depth of 30-300 m. Setting up a water supply system with such a source of liquid will be very expensive; special drilling equipment will be required. Injection equipment is not required, since the water will flow under pressure. The liquid is very clean, which is its advantage; there is no sludge or impurities. You can take as much water as you like, it is unlikely to run out.

Water supply rules

The water supply to a bathhouse consists of several stages. First you need to choose the right pump for pumping liquid. In any case, even if water is supplied from a well, whether the well is drilled or not, equipment for normal and constant pressure is needed. You can use units that are submerged in water or installed separately. The type of device used depends on the depth of the liquid. The winter water supply to any bathhouse is installed in such a way that it does not freeze in severe frosts.

Water will be supplied from any source through the outlet pipe. It is a mandatory requirement that the pipe enters wells or other sources below the freezing depth of the soil so that the liquid can circulate all year round. The entry point must be reliably sealed. To avoid turning on the pump every time you open the tap in the bathhouse, it is recommended to install a small tank where water will accumulate. In this way, it is possible to stabilize the pressure in the system and facilitate the operation of the mechanism.

How to choose pipes

If necessary, plastic pipes can be installed simultaneously with metal ones. Pipes are one of the main parts for supplying liquid, so you need to choose them correctly. If the hot room operates all year round, organizing the system will be more difficult than if it was used only in warm weather. The water supply in the bathhouse must be laid out taking into account the consumption of all consumers in the room.

To connect the pump, use a pipe with a diameter of about 30 mm. The rest of the system can be used with water channels up to 25 mm. You can use metal-plastic products. To connect them, rubber seals must be used. In cold conditions, their frequent replacement will be necessary, therefore it is recommended to use polymer materials outdoors. They bend easily and are suitable for working both in the ground and in the bathhouse itself. The sewage system must be done in such a way that it does not freeze in winter. That is, the channel must pass as low as possible to ground level.

The optimal material for laying water is polypropylene. To assemble a system with such components, a special heating element is required, which will serve to hermetically collect the components. You can use other reinforced pipes with a foil shell, but using them is not advisable due to cost.

Selecting a heating element

If the bathhouse is located close to the house, you can consider the option of supplying hot water from the boiler to the home. The pipe must be reliably insulated so that the liquid does not have time to freeze. But basically, the water supply is made separate from the house. For this purpose, a stove is installed. There are many types of stoves, but most often wood stoves are used in baths, since they are the most productive in this place.

A tank must be installed inside the furnace, which should be lined with bricks. The liquid will remain warm for a long time. You can use more modern methods of heating water: storage heaters, boilers. The water pipes in the bathhouse should not freeze in winter, even without heating. This is important to consider when building channels.

If there is only one water supply system in the house and bathhouse, there are no difficulties with the supply of liquid. But when using individual devices, there are some points you need to know. Pipes for water supply must be buried at least 1.5-2 meters so that the channel does not freeze when moving away from the source of liquid. They must be covered with moisture-resistant materials to provide insulation. To prevent the cold from freezing the pipes, you can lay them on a thermal insulation pad around them. Then everything is buried in the ground.

If the bathhouse is not heated after washing, it is necessary to ensure that the liquid is drained from the system in winter. The temperature will drop, and water, if it remains in the pipes, will definitely freeze. This can lead to cracks and system inoperability. The sink is equipped with equipment that is suitable for this type of water supply and will be convenient for the owners.

To reduce water consumption, the well should be located at the same distance from the points of consumption. Water supply to a bathhouse and home begins with the installation of a water supply system; it is also necessary to install water heaters, a pressure switch and a winter drainage system. Consider a water supply system that works properly at any groundwater level.

Installation of water supply

First you need to dig a trench from the well to the buildings. The depth of the trench must be at least 1.5 m. At this depth, the water in the pipe will not freeze. But soil pressure can deform the pipe, so a pipe with a wall thickness of at least 1 inch is suitable for installing a water supply system. The pipe running from the pump to the points of consumption (sink, shower, etc.) is called a circuit.

A pump is installed in the well at a depth of 1.5 m - 1.7 m. The automatic pump control unit and power relay will be located in the house.

Since two pipes are connected to the water source, the pump will create the same pressure in them. Therefore, inside, in addition to the pump, it is necessary to install a manifold. This device is necessary in order to drain water from one circuit independently of the other.

The collector is installed at a distance of 1 m from the pump so that an air lock does not form in the pipe between the pump and the collector.

What is a collector?

The manifold is a system of compression couplings. The pump is connected to the lower coupling. Next comes the exit to the main circuit. The main circuit is considered to be a pipe that is connected to the pressure switch. A tap is installed on the collector to block the flow of water into the second circuit, through which water is supplied to the bathhouse, and a tap to drain water from the entire water supply system.

Installation of internal pipes

Using a compression coupling, the PVC pipe is transferred to polypropylene. Next, a shut-off valve is installed that blocks the access of water to the street. Then another tap is installed in front of the coarse filter at 100 microns. After the filter, a water supply tap is installed in a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm. Two pipes with hot and cold water come from the heater. Shut-off valves are also installed on them. The lowest point of drainage is the faucet mixer. This type of water supply is the most resistant to freezing.

Pump for water supply system

The water supply will not function well without a powerful pump. It is better to choose an oil pump. The oil engine starts according to the principle of electromagnetic induction. Due to the fact that the oil cools the engine parts, the service life of the pump is longer than that of models with a conventional electric motor.

Choose pumps with a central water intake, so they will silt less.

For bath procedures to bring real pleasure, it needs to be properly equipped. And first of all, make sure that the water supply system in the bathhouse is reliable and works all year round, including the coldest months.

However, not everyone needs this. For many people, the bathhouse is located at their summer cottage, and there is simply no point in investing in a complex system. Therefore, here we will consider all possible water supply schemes for a bath, from the simplest to the most functional.

Types of bath water supply

If the bathhouse is used quite rarely, and you enjoy hauling water into it in buckets, you are unlikely to be interested in how to make a water supply for a bathhouse. However, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that this method is not only labor-intensive, but also very impractical and uneconomical.

In summer, the water remaining in the container stagnates and loses its freshness. And in winter it must be completely drained after each procedure, otherwise the frozen liquid will rupture the tank and.

Even if water costs nothing (river, rain, etc.), its drained excess creates problems: increased humidity, mold, overflow of the drainage pit. And an automated water supply system will allow you not to think about such phenomena and not waste time and effort preparing the bath for the bath day.

Summer water supply

If you visit the bathhouse only during summer visits to the dacha, you can connect the seasonal water supply to the bathhouse. To do this, you need to lower a submersible pump into the water source and lay a pipeline from it to the bathhouse. You can use a regular garden hose.

Advice. When laying “over the air”, without digging into the ground, it is more practical to use thick-walled polyethylene pipes. They will last for more than one season and will not create problems when preserving the pipeline for the winter.

In the photo - HDPE pipes

By turning on the pump, you will quickly fill all the containers in the bath and can add more if there is not enough water.

You can pump water into a storage tank located in the attic or on a hill on the site. From there it will be fed into the bathhouse by gravity. In this case, it is convenient to install the faucet directly in the washing room.

Making such a water supply in a bathhouse with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears, but it doesn’t provide much comfort either. In addition, the system needs to be preserved for the winter: drain the water from it so that when it freezes, it does not rupture the pipes and shut-off valves.

However, in some cases it is the only possible one. For example, if a house is still being built on the site and it is planned to build a general water supply system from a centralized source.

Or the now popular bathhouse on wheels - the water supply scheme for a mobile bathhouse involves connecting a flexible hose to different sources.

All-season water supply

Unfortunately, the summer water supply in the bathhouse will not work in winter due to the banal freezing of water in the pipes. Insulating them is not an option, since even the highest quality thermal insulation materials are not able to protect against severe frosts.

To prevent ice plugs from forming in pipes and equipment, you need to:

• Either lay them below the freezing level of the ground and constantly heat the bathhouse;
• Either provide a constant flow of water in the system, which is very irrational;
• Or completely drain the water from it after each visit to the steam room;
• Or maintain a positive water temperature inside the pipes using a heating electric cable.

Each method has its drawbacks. For example, if there are frequent power outages, using a heating cable will be useless. And constantly heating a room that is visited only occasionally will be too expensive.

Therefore, in practice the following schemes are used:

• The simplest one resembles summer water supply for baths, with the difference that the pipeline is laid with a good slope towards a well or borehole. There should be no shut-off devices on it, and the pump should not have a shut-off valve. By turning it on, you can fill all the containers in the bath. After turning off the equipment, the remaining water in the pipe, thanks to the slope, flows by gravity through the pump back into the well.

It is important. To prevent the water in the source from freezing, it must be insulated - make a caisson for a well or a house for a well with a well-insulated lid.

• A more complex scheme involves greater material and labor costs for its installation. Such water supply systems for baths consist of a pump and a pipeline laid in a trench below the freezing level of the soil up to the washing room.
• To do this, make a hole in the wall of the well, insert the end of the pipe into it, connect it to the pump, and seal the hole. A trench is dug up to the bathhouse and under its foundation. It is better to make the vertical part of the pipeline from the pit in the bathhouse to the water tank from a flexible hose, and the pit itself is well insulated and equipped with a lid.

• There is another similar scheme in which water pumping equipment is installed not in a well, but in an insulated base of a bathhouse.

These are the most common methods by which water supply is arranged in an unheated bathhouse. If it is heated all year round, it can be equipped with much greater comfort by installing a pumping station and a boiler for hot water, and completing internal wiring in all rooms.

This will make it possible to make a bathroom in the bathhouse, install a shower and even equip a kitchen. The only weak point of such a system in winter is the area where it enters the building above the freezing level. It must be insulated or a heating cable must be laid in the pipe.

Hot water supply

Another important question: the bathhouse and in it. If it is not heated in winter, and there is no possibility of installing an electric or gas water heater, you will need a hot water tank. It is filled from a cold water supply system, but heating depends on the type of tank.

Image	Description	Advantages
	Built into the stove from above or on the side, the tank’s bottom or wall is in contact with it, and the water is heated by fire from the firebox. It can be scooped from above or removed through a tap welded into the wall.	Very high heating efficiency. But you need to monitor the water level in the tank. To prevent the boiling liquid from creating raw steam, it must be more than half full.
	Hot water supply in the bathhouse is provided from a tank installed on the chimney. Hot smoke passing through it heats the water.	High efficiency and increased service life of the chimney, since it does not heat up so much during the combustion process, giving off heat to the water.
	In a remote tank, water is heated from the heat exchanger of the sauna stove - water supply in this way is convenient for a large number of users.	The container can be installed anywhere without being rigidly tied to the oven. For example, the stove can be in the dressing room, and the tank in the washing compartment.

Advice. The optimal volume of the tank is calculated in accordance with the number of people washing in the bathhouse: each person should have at least 15 liters of hot water.

When choosing a material for making a container, consider the following options:

• Black metal. The most budget and affordable option, you can weld the tank yourself. But the material is susceptible to corrosion, which affects the quality of water.

• Stainless steel. The most preferable option is lightweight, wear-resistant, non-rusting, and aesthetically attractive. But it costs more.

• Cast iron. It is also not subject to corrosion and retains heat well. But at present it is practically not used due to its lack of availability on sale.

In order for the system to serve for a long time and be reliable, you need to plan the construction of the bathhouse and water supply carefully, taking into account all the nuances.

Selection of materials

It is very important to choose the right pipes for supplying and distributing water. They must be durable, easy to install and withstand significant temperature changes.

• Steel pipes, for which there were practically no alternatives in earlier times, are practically not used today due to their instability to corrosion. They wear out quickly, and their replacement is associated with large expenses and a large amount of work.

• Polyethylene pipes are resistant to low temperatures. They are flexible and durable, easily connected using special fittings. They are convenient to use for laying summer water supply. PE and HDPE pipes do not require preservation; it is enough to simply drain the water from them for the winter.

• Polypropylene pipes are indispensable for the installation of external underground water supply and internal wiring. They are securely connected by soldering.

• Copper pipes are the most expensive. They have excellent performance characteristics. Their main area of ​​application is a hot water supply system in a bathhouse with a remote hot water tank.

Installation features

The pipeline must be protected from external influences and soil pressure. To prevent pipes underground from receiving mechanical damage, the instructions recommend laying them on a sand bed or placing them in a corrugated hose of a suitable cross-section.

This will prevent them from being deformed and compressed by the layer of soil located above, and will protect against its seasonal movements.

In order to have access to a sauna throughout the year, the water supply in winter needs to be protected from freezing. And first of all, this applies to complex pumping equipment.

• If the pump is submersible, it is in the water. It can freeze only in severe frosts if it is standing close to ground level. In this case, it is necessary to insulate the outer walls of the well and equip it with a lid.

• The presence of a pumping station will require the installation of a caisson or an insulated pit in the bathhouse.

• Any system must have drain valves to be able to completely drain water from equipment and pipes during extreme cold weather.

Conclusion

We recommend that you watch several videos in this article, which describe in detail the different methods of supplying water to the bathhouse. After which you can choose your best option for how to make water supply in the bathhouse, based on your capabilities and finances.