Moonshine still from a 40 liter can. Moonshine still from a flask. Drain valve and steam generator

The basis of a moonshine still is a distillation cube. In this case, an aluminum “milk” flask with a capacity of 40 liters is used. It's good if you can find a flask with the same cast aluminum handles as in the picture on the left. These handles will be used to hold down the top cover, so they should be quite strong. Condition of the top cover and rubber o-ring do not play a big role, does not have special significance and the condition of the flask itself. Using the described clamp, you can seal a container even with deformed edges.

First you need to disconnect the lid of the flask and remove the clamping bar from the lid. Ignore the two holes that will remain in the lid after this.
You can also remove the unnecessary lid clamping element in the form of a lever with a clamping loop, which is located on the body of the flask.

A tank made of of stainless steel or aluminum. You can also use a galvanized iron tank of 25-30 liters, but it does not have sufficient rigidity.
There is a coil located inside the tank. It is made in the form of a spiral from a copper tube with a diameter of 10-12 mm and a length of 2.5-3 meters. The larger the diameter of the tube, the shorter its length can be. . Depending on the length of the tube, the spiral may have 2-3 turns. The diameter of the resulting coil must be such that it fits freely inside the cooler tank.
The lower end of the coil is brought out. The tightness in this place can be ensured by any in a suitable way. I used a brass bushing with a thread cut to the outer diameter. The nut is also brass, the gasket is any kind. At the top, the coil is attached to the wall of the tank using a clamp.

Water is supplied to the cooling tank through a pipe in its lower part. Likewise, the top of the tank is tightly inserted into drilled hole and a piece of tube is soldered on which a hose will be put on to drain warm water. In general, the design of a cooler with a coil can have any form. It all depends on the materials at your disposal. It is only necessary to ensure the overall rigidity of the structure, eliminate water leakage and not use ferrous metal parts. Most suitable material is stainless steel, copper and its alloys.

A galvanized iron tank with a capacity of 32 liters will be used as a cold water tank. Here you can use any suitable container made of metal or plastic. The larger the tank, the less often you will have to add water to it, so choose based on your needs.
The cold water supply to the refrigerator is adjusted using ball valve, mounted in the lower part of the tank. The connection from the tap to the bottom pipe of the refrigerator is made using a suitable hose.

Copper tube for coil

For the coil it is advisable to use copper tube with a diameter of at least 10 mm. More is better. The pipeline connecting the reflux condenser to the steam tank is made from the same tube. For the coil, it is advisable to use a thin-walled tube, which improves the heat exchange between cold water and alcohol-containing vapors. Well, that's... kind of a theory. And we use the one we find.
When bending a tube, especially a thin-walled one, care must be taken not to “break” it at a small radius. Therefore, if you do not have experience, it is advisable to fill the tube with dry sand before bending. One end of the tube is flattened, then it is filled with sand, tapping occasionally to compact it. After the tube is full, plug the other end. Now the tube can be bent as you like.

Tubular electro heating elements in the amount of 2 pieces they can have different designs, as long as they fit into the flask. It is desirable that they differ in power. For example, one heating element with a power of 1.5 kW, the second 2.5 kW. In this case, by connecting one or another heating element, you will be able to roughly regulate the temperature mode of distillation, even if you do not have a power regulator. The total power of heating elements should not exceed 4.5 kW. The maximum current can reach 20A, so pay attention to the condition of the electrical wiring, the reliability of connections in junction boxes, at the terminals of the electric meter, check what current the meter itself is designed for and the protection elements (fuses (plugs) or circuit breakers. Take this very seriously.

You will also need a two-liter glass jar with a screw-on metal lid - a future hot steamer, a piece of watering hose, a soldering iron with a power of at least 100 watts with all the bells and whistles (solder, flux, etc.) and other little things. The solder should contain as little lead as possible, for example, POS-91.

In Soviet times, when high-quality stainless steel was in short supply, probably every second moonshine still was made on the basis of an aluminum flask for food products.

Nowadays, this design remains relevant due to its simplicity and accessibility. To understand what a moonshine still from a flask is, what its design and operating principle are, as well as how to make such a device with your own hands at home, you need to familiarize yourself with the issue in more detail.

Alcohol mashine from a flask is a distillation system in which a large aluminum food-grade container, for example a milking can, is used, and such units are easy to make with your own hands due to the pliability of the material.

The main advantage of the flask-based design is the reduction in cost, the greater power of the system due to the large volume of the base container, mainly 40 and 25 liters, as well as the already mentioned ease of processing aluminum.

Design and principles of operation

Since the design based on a flask is homemade, the design of a moonshine still based on it is often quite simple. Basically, these are homemade ones, consisting of a tank-flask, hoses and a refrigerator; the model can also be improved with additional cleaning products in the form of a steamer and/or.

Such seemingly simple units, in the absence of more serious elements responsible for cleaning, such as a drawer or a reflux condenser, will significantly increase the quality of the distillate. In addition, the unit can be equipped to help monitor the quality of the product directly during the distillation process.

The operating principle of a moonshine still from a flask is the embodiment of the distillation process.

1. Under the influence of heat, alcohol, water, fusel oils and other impurities evaporate from the mash.
2. Next, steam consisting of their mixture, or at the very in a simple way distillation immediately goes into the refrigerator and condenses, but then the moonshine will be of low quality, or it will first enter the steamer and/or bubbler, where some of the impurities settle.
3. It is then cooled to a liquid state.

In the second case, the passage of steam through air gap in a dry steam tank leads to weaker cleaning than when passing through the water layer of a bubbler, which must be taken into account when calculating additional filtration means in the system.

How to make a moonshine still from a 25 or 40 liter flask with your own hands

Units based on such containers are most often ordinary household distillers, but there may be exceptions. Let's look at each element in order.

Choosing a can for a distillation cube

The feasibility of improving the distiller largely depends on what container is used. So, it is better to use an ordinary Soviet-CIS aluminum can as the basis of a simple distiller, at the same time, if you purchase a new or used flask on the Internet from food grade stainless steel of European or Chinese design, then you can think about creating a mash or distillation column.

The volume of such containers ranges from 10 to 100 liters, but the most popular are moonshine stills made from flasks of 25, 40 and 50 liters. It is also important, if the choice falls on an aluminum product, to pay attention to the integrity and general condition of the protective coating.

The first determines whether toxic aluminum oxides will get into the moonshine, and the second determines how long the container will last.

Re-equipping a can is not a difficult task, since it is already equipped with a convenient and sealed system locking. There are a few technological holes left to make.

1. The first is necessary to remove hot steam. For this purpose, it is better to use a fitting and seal the gap with a gasket made of food-grade silicone or heat-resistant non-toxic sealant.
2. The second hole is needed to install a thermometer. It is better to use a bimetallic device, having previously installed a sealing sleeve in the hole and sealed it using the same method as the fitting.

Hoses

For a simpler unit based on an aluminum flask, the best solution would be steam lines made of food-grade silicone, but for a more solid design based on a stainless steel can, it’s worth thinking about steam lines made of the appropriate material.

Although their production will result in high costs, the durability and reliability of such a system is much higher, especially if it is planned to install a reflux condenser or column.

In general, the selection of hoses for a moonshine still should be based on the power of the system, which determines their optimal length and internal diameter, so that it is maintained operating pressure and no zones of high hydraulic resistance were created.

Fridge

For a simple distiller, there are two alternatives - and a direct-flow one, but even in this case you need to rely on the power of the entire system, because the higher it is, the higher the likelihood of condensate plugs forming in the coil.

For models based on a flask with a volume of more than 25 liters, it is better to choose a straight-flow, although you can also choose a coil, but provided that the tube cross-section has a significant diameter.

If you plan to install a reflux condenser, mash or distillation column, then you don’t have to choose - only direct-flow. This is due both to its higher power and efficiency, and to stable operation that is not subject to condensation plugs, which is very important for such units.

To a simple unit for distilling moonshine based on an aluminum flask, an excellent addition that improves the quality of the distillate would be either a bubbler, or better yet, a “bubbler-dry steamer” combination.

In this case, the first one performs “rough” and the second one “soft” steam purification, while the steamer can be simultaneously used for maceration of moonshine - saturating the alcohol with the aroma and taste of herbs, fruits and other ingredients. To do this, you just need to put them inside.

A more serious design of the unit involves installation on a flask or, which, by the way, can be made at home if materials are available, but this will require detailed familiarization with their features, as well as the essence of the rectification process.

In this case, you need to think about the heating source, since for high-quality separation of a multicomponent mixture you need smooth heating and precise adjustment, and there are three options.

• First, but not the best - this is;
• second– this is the installation of heating elements, they have more smooth adjustment, but do not guarantee that the mash will not burn;
• third– this is the best, but also the most expensive solution.

Other types of moonshine stills

Among household homemade units one of the most common options is .

The fact is that this container is essentially a high-quality ready-made distillation cube that requires minor modifications, which significantly simplifies the process of manufacturing the distiller.

Also gaining popularity.

This device is not only an excellent distillation cube, but also has a very convenient, correct, similar to heating elements and easy adjustable system heating

A special place is occupied by a copper distiller; this metal, due to its thermal conductivity, has the most delicate thermal effect on raw materials, thereby preserving and transmitting its organoleptic properties to the final product.

Copper installations are used by almost all manufacturers of noble alcohol, such as, or.

For those who need to distill moonshine in the absence of tap water, the model of a non-flowing moonshine still will be interesting.

It uses a large capacity to cool the coil, which is why the water has time to cool due to environment, without the influx of new cold.

And finally, the most controversial device is one in which the liquid goes through a double “evaporation-condensation” cycle, rather than a single one, as in a conventional distiller.

The “classic” moonshine still made from an aluminum flask is a simple and affordable solution that meets all the basic requirements of moonshine brewing, especially since it is now possible to purchase a can from food grade stainless steel, which is suitable for creating advanced distillation systems like a mash or distillation column.

In this case, the issue of expensive work on the production of a distillation cube is resolved, for which you still need to look for qualified specialists and good materials.

In addition, the guaranteed high, factory-made quality of the product is also a significant plus; otherwise, the efficiency of such a unit depends on the chosen configuration of the refrigerator and cleaning units.

35 photos

Final view of the device

02
It all started a long time ago; in 2006, in the dormitory of the medical university, I met a fellow biochemist, Anton, who had long and carefully studied the technology of alcohol distillation and the production of good product. We then played poker on Fridays and often drank Gin, Becherovka, Anisovka, Erofeich, Spotykach, Absinthe at his place. We really liked his products and started buying from him instead of going to the store. There was never a hangover, the quality was excellent. So for several years we bought Gin from him, diluted it with tonic and drank it. But in 2013 he went to live in Moscow and we became sad that such an option had disappeared. For two years we drank beer and store-bought drinks, when suddenly the idea came to my mind about making such a machine ourselves and learning how to distill Gin ourselves. Well, other drinks too, but Gin has always come first for us.

03
Well, to the essence of the process.
After reading various forums, we first wanted to buy the device. But as it turned out, there are a lot of nuances:
1. As a rule, they are all made of stainless steel. It is cheaper than copper (if mass produced), but there is one serious problem: when distilling mash into alcohol in a copper apparatus, various fractions of hydrogen sulfide (or not, in general, a competent person explained this way), which settle on the tubes inside the apparatus. And if they are easily washed out in a copper apparatus citric acid, then in a stainless steel apparatus they do not settle on the walls, they go into the finished product, and thus spoil its quality.
2. Distillation cube size. In purchased devices, the maximum limit is 20 liters of mash. Taking into account the fact that it cannot be filled completely, no more than 16-18 liters of mash can be processed at a time. While we poured 33-35 liters of mash into our apparatus from a 38-liter flask.
The flask can be purchased at some rural markets or through an advertisement. Important! Many people write that there is no need to take a keg, because... it is very difficult to wash.

04
Then, again, we found a home distiller from Anton and on the forum detailed diagram columns. It’s good that we have an engineer among us who quickly figured everything out, understood the essence, what to do where, etc. The diagram looks like this:

05
There we will also find out a list of necessary copper parts, tubes, fittings, etc. As usual, I had to go to the store 3-4 times, buy more, change, etc. Still, the creation of such a device is unique for each case. You start to understand the process, you start to think about how it’s better, how it’s easier to do it, you decide to do something differently from the diagram, etc.
List necessary materials looks like that:
tee 28Х22Х15 - 2 pieces (for dephlegmator)
tee 22Х15Х15 -2 pieces (under the refrigerator)
tee 15Х15Х15 -2 pieces (for filling and draining water)
tee 22Х22Х15 - 1 piece (for thermometer)
Adapter 28Х22 -2 pieces (if there is no tee 28Х22Х15)
Connector 15X3/4 - 2 pcs (for connecting hoses from the washing machine)
corner 15X15 -3pcs
pipe 28Х500 - 1 piece (dephlegmator)
pipe 22Х2500 - 1 piece (refrigerator + internal pipe of the dephlegmator)
pipe 15Х2500 - 1 piece (internal pipe of the refrigerator + cutting joints and bends)
Regulating valve for radiators, straight (radiator tap) 2 pcs

06
All copper is sold at plumbing supply stores. We have problems with purchasing in Tomsk copper pipes No.
Also purchased auxiliary materials: flux, solder, brush, etc.

07
After purchasing everything we needed, we figured out the process of soldering copper. To be honest, we thought it would be more difficult. But after watching videos on YouTube (of which there are a great many), we tested this process, and it turned out to be quite simple. We solder with regular gas canister and a burner.

08
Before soldering, we assemble the entire circuit, check it, cut it, compare it with the circuit, so as not to redo it later. The most difficult thing is to deal with the reflux condenser and refrigerator. This is a “pipe-in-pipe” scheme, where a small tube is inserted inside a large one and soldered in the right places.

09
After estimation, we solder the entire apparatus. We did everything in the garage, but if we don’t have it, we can do it in the apartment. It is advisable to have a vice, it helps a lot. As you can see from the photo, there is also a pressure and temperature sensor at the top, which is very helpful during the distillation process.

10
Sensor close

11
Next, we begin preparing the flask. First of all, we prepare the lid, drill a hole in it (you can make it with a simple file, but we have good friend with the machine, and it would have been a sin not to use it).

12
We seal the lid groove with two silicone tubes with a diameter of 7 mm and a thickness of 1.5 mm (sold in medical equipment and other similar stores). It is important to remove all rubber gaskets from the flask, otherwise the finished product will smell like rubber. We use only silicone.

13
We also tear off the cover from its fastenings, making it removable. To do this, insert a bolt and nut. In the future, this will be very helpful in the process of pouring mash into the flask and back.

14
Next, we make holes for the shades at the bottom of the flask. You can take 1 ten for 2.5 square meters, but we took two for 1.25. Ordinary heaters, the kind that were in Soviet electric kettles. Sold in hardware stores. If necessary, the heaters can be turned off, and from personal experience, this further helps to control the temperature, distillation speed and the entire process as a whole. The shade itself is inside, the socket is outside. We install the shades opposite each other.

15
For power supply, we bought two Chinese wires similar to those used for old irons, kettles or pressure cookers. Something like this:

16
Next, we finish the lid by inserting an American copper and a nipple (brass is possible) into it on both sides, tighten them through the washer (there may be several solutions here, depending on what you find in the store). Apply silicone sealant and let dry.

17
We bought some more things - plastic flasks (2 pcs. 30 l each) - to put more mash at once, hoses from washing machines machines (2 pieces, one for supplying water to the device, the other for drainage), 10-liter glass bottles (cannot be stored in plastic, substances from them get into the product). Hoses and flasks are sold specially. stores, large supermarkets. The bottles were bought on Avito for 500 rubles apiece.

18
Now the device is ready! I’ll duplicate the photo that was the first:

19
The technical part is ready. Let's move on to organizing the mash. I already wrote that we bought bottles, flasks, etc. In addition, we buy yeast Saf Levure (3 pieces, 100 grams each) and Saf Moment (3 pieces, 10 grams each - so that the mash does not foam).

20
We also buy citric acid to wash the apparatus before the first use (and subsequently after every 4-5 distillations). We dilute 2 packs of 50 grams per 3 liters of water, pour them into the device, let them stand and rinse with running water.

21
We wash the device

23
Important - the yeast must be activated before adding to the flask. To do this, pour the yeast in a three-liter jar with warm water, wait until the cap rises and pour it into a flask.

24
To prevent the mash from running away, we throw the dried crust of black bread into it.
We placed 3 flasks at once. 2 pieces with a volume of 30 liters, each containing 15 liters of water and 10 kg of sugar + yeast. One flask was made of aluminum, in which they were later expelled. There was a little more water and a little more sugar. The apartment was vacant at that time, and we, fearing that the mash would run away, placed it in the bathroom. But none of the flasks escaped, thanks to the bread crust.

25
Let this mash steep for two weeks. Then we do the first distillation. We do not turn on the reflux condenser during the first distillation. We do the process itself in the bathroom, the flask (still) stands on the floor in the bathroom, connected to cold water and plum.

26
Here in the photo there are already new taps, but this should be mentioned separately. At first we took cheap taps with a rubber band as a stem, but they turned out to be unsuitable. During the distillation process, the tap twitched and made noise. After the first distillation we bought good taps, Italian, where a brass rod was used as a locking rod And everything became perfect:

27
After the first distillation, we examine the resulting product for organoleptic properties. It smells a little like moonshine, but that's normal. We taste test it and it’s good too. Since we cut off both the head and tails, the product turned out to be transparent and smells faintly of moonshine. If the moonshine is cloudy after the first distillation (as it is often depicted on the Internet and in films), it means that the heads and tails were not cut off. It contains a lot of nasty things like fusel oils, etc., and it’s better not to drink it.

28
Each flask yielded alcohol of different strengths and different color, although the proportions were approximately the same. This is normal - each flask has its own life, its own process...

29
After the first distillation, I got about 5 liters from each flask.
Let the first distillation moonshine sit for several days (although this is not necessary). Next, we dilute it with water to 30-35 degrees (to hide the shadows in the flask) and do a second distillation using a reflux condenser. We make sure that it flows not in a thin stream (as in the first distillation), but in a quick drop. It takes a lot of time, but this is the point of the second distillation - essentially, additional purification of ethyl alcohol. At the beginning of the process, the alcohol meter sinks due to the purity and quality of the alcohol

30
We drive until the density drops below 35-40 degrees. We dilute the resulting product with clean water to 40 degrees.
Preparing the ingredients for the gin. The amount of ingredients is indicated for 1 liter of 40-degree alcohol after the second distillation. We weigh on regular kitchen scales.

We buy at the pharmacy:
juniper 22.5 g
angelica root 2.5 g

We buy at the spice store:
coriander 11.5 g
cinnamon 2.5 g
lemon zest - from 3 lemons, remove the topmost part without the white stuff
cardamom 0.25 g

32
3/5 – we fill it with juniper, 2/5 – with everything else.

33
Let all this stuff sit for about a week (5-7 days). Then, through several layers of gauze, remove all the berries, zest and other chuchvara, leaving only the liquid. We dilute the liquid again to 30-35 degrees and distill it a third time (without a reflux condenser, just quick distillation). We dilute the resulting product with clean water to 40 degrees and let it brew for a week. The gin is ready. It turned out 12 liters of gin from three flasks of mash.
It is not very convenient to take out a silicone tube during the distillation process, collect the sample in a container and measure its density. We are currently working on upgrading the device, making a flow-through alcohol meter. It looks something like this: (photo not ours, all from Anton too)

34
The gin is ready! You can then use it at your own discretion. There are many options - dilute with tonic 1 to 3 + ice - a light cocktail. We prefer shots - jam (the liquid from it, without berries), a third or half, or special syrups sold in large supermarkets are poured into a glass. Gin is carefully poured on top. Due to the difference in density, they do not mix, and the result is a beautiful and tasty shot.

35
What happened in terms of costs:
The apparatus and auxiliary materials (copper, taps, bottles, flasks, burner, flux, solder, gas, brush, etc.) took approximately 12 thousand rubles + a month of leisurely work in the garage with beer and nice talking. Of course, this amount is quite large, but the end justifies the means.

It took approximately 2 thousand rubles to obtain 12 liters of gin. Despite the fact that in Tomsk the simplest gin costs 1,900 rubles. per 0.5 liter, the cost of our gin is less than 100 rubles per 0.5 liter. A quality triple distilled gin made only from water, sugar and yeast. Now we drink a high-quality drink, we think that we will drive further and are indignant, why didn’t we think of this before?

All New Year spent with their drinks, handed them out to friends and family – beauty and that’s all! We advise everyone to try using a similar device and drink quality drinks! Next on the list of drinks are sweet liqueur and Erofeich. If you are interested, we can also make a micro report on these drinks. Good luck to all!

That's all I wanted to say:)
We will be happy to answer any questions on the topic)

20.01.2016 - 11:46

As a still, milk cans are better than many adapted containers. They are second only to pressure cookers, and even then in terms of the number of options for choosing the volume, milk cans have no equal. They can be purchased in a capacity range from 10 to 100 liters at a very reasonable price. It is not necessary to buy a new can for the device; you can find used ones on the market in quite good condition.

Aluminum can is the most popular cube container, but not the safest

The cans have a characteristic shape with a conical top, a wide neck and a lid equipped with a loop and a special lock. To transport milk, special food-grade pads made of rubber or silicone are used. They are quite suitable for distillation, withstanding quite high temperatures. But rubber gaskets are quite unstable, so they should be replaced with silicone ones. Cutting these from a sheet or using a hose cut lengthwise is simple and inexpensive.

To make a moonshine still from a milk can, you will need a minimum of alterations. First, drill a hole in the center of the lid for the steam pipe fitting. Its diameter depends on the future superstructure. If you are going to install a conventional distiller with a steam steamer and a bubbler, then a threaded fitting onto which the steam line stand will be screwed is sufficient.

Drill two holes in the lid

If a distillation column is installed, the hole should be larger. An adapter is inserted into it for fastening the column using a clamp clamp or a union nut. The fittings and adapters themselves are secured using two clamping nuts, internal and external, under which silicone gaskets are installed. The thread on the pipe can be cut at home. Suitable taps and dies can be found in every garage.

We drill a second hole, for a thermometer, with a diameter of 5.5 mm in the lid or wall of the can in the upper part of the cone. It is more practical to install a thermometer in the lid - there is enough space there and it is easier to drill. A thread is cut into the hole and a piece of stainless steel tube about 5 cm long with a pre-cut thread is screwed in. In some homemade designs install a sleeve sealed at the bottom. It's technical correct solution, relatively complete sealing of the evaporator, but the temperature readings are somewhat distorted. Although 2-3 C in operation household appliance are not critical, but it is better that the thermometer rod is in direct contact with the medium. Making a sleeve is very simple - just rivet the lower part of the pipe.

We mount a fitting and a thermometer into the holes of the cover

You can install any factory-made distillation equipment on the can, for example the Malinovka apparatus, designed specifically for the can. Columns “Domovenok”, “Phoenix Crystal”, “Ermak Plus”, “Katyusha” are also well suited for working on a milk flask. You just need to buy the equipment before you start converting the milk can, so as not to make a mistake with the diameter of the installation pipe.

Safety

You also need to install it on the moonshine still from the flask safety valve. It is also mounted in the lid using a thread or sealant. It is very convenient to use a standard valve from a multicooker or pressure cooker. You can buy them at the market or on the Internet. They cost little compared to the price of other equipment, but their role is very significant. Milk cans are closed hermetically, the constipations are strong, and if the pipeline is clogged, the troubles can be quite noticeable.

Drain tap

Drain tap for stillage it is installed only when the flask volume is more than 25 liters. Smaller vessels are very convenient to remove from the stove - they are equipped with two side handles. A wide neck and a hinged or removable lid allow you to easily pour out the stillage and wash the flask.

Steam generator

The complete conversion of the flask ends with the installation of a fitting for connecting the steam generator. He crashes into side wall at a height of 2.5 cm from the bottom. A thread is cut on the outer side of the fitting to connect the steam line, and a bubbler is connected to the inner side - a perforated spiral running from the perimeter to the center of the bottom. The steam pipeline system is made of stainless steel or copper. Tube diameter - from 10 mm. It is not difficult to make a spiral of the desired configuration using the same technology as a coil for a refrigerator.

Electric heater

You can convert a moonshine still from a can using electricity to heat it with your own hands. To do this, it is enough to embed heating elements with a power of 1.5 kW on both sides. For this purpose, two holes are drilled, according to the size of the heating element, if it is “C”-shaped or one large diameter, if the heating element is spiral.

Such a device can be equipped with heating elements

The heaters are sealed using FUM tape or special heat-resistant putty and secured with nuts. The connection cable must be selected with a cross-section of at least 2.5 cm. If possible, install an electronic control unit or rheostat. This is much more convenient than turning the heating element on and off alternately. Two heaters are needed to set the “high-speed heating” and “distillation” modes. If the moonshine still has a volume of more than 30 liters, a 1.5 kW heating element is not enough. You need to install one 3 kW and one 1.5 kW. This is the most convenient combination of powers.

Choice of can material

Milk flasks are made from aluminum and stainless steel. Aluminum cans for 20 - 50 liters, in given time, are made only in the CIS countries, Russia and China. Stainless steel - in almost all European countries and, of course, in China. European and Chinese cans can be found with both regular, press-on lids and screw lids. Both options are suitable for all types of moonshine stills.

If you are not experiencing very big financial difficulties, then buy a stainless steel can. In terms of price, Chinese ones are better, and in terms of quality, European ones. But even stainless steel flasks from China have fairly strong walls, bottom and lid (thickness from 1.5 mm) and are made of food grade steel. But here, too, caution is needed - if cans are offered on the Internet or on Ali at completely bargain prices - something is wrong. You can compare prices on specialized websites.

Aluminum cans are somewhat cheaper. They are quite durable, easy to refurbish and are completely resistant to corrosion. But, according to most doctors and gastroenterologists, they are not entirely suitable for a moonshine still. The effect of aluminum on the human body has not been fully studied, and contact of this metal with hot alcohol vapor can be fraught with many surprises.

But at the same time, the majority of household moonshine stills in Russia are made from aluminum milk cans, and there are millions of them. There have been no widely known cases of poisoning or harm to health from aluminum. Therefore, aluminum milk cans for making moonshine stills with your own hands can be considered conditionally acceptable without additional restrictions.

You can make a moonshine still from a flask, if you have all the necessary materials and tools on hand, in a few hours. When searching and purchasing components - in 2-3 days. The service life of such an installation is unlimited.

Although there are many home distillers of different types on the market price categories, experienced moonshiners prefer to make the equipment themselves or place an order to trusted craftsmen using their own drawings and diagrams.

The advantage of this approach is not only cost savings. Often, a home-made moonshine still is more reliable and practical than most store-bought models with incomprehensible elements that contradict the laws of physics, installed only to attract buyers and raise the price. Next we will look at the classic design of a moonshine still (distiller), which has no equal in simplicity and efficiency.

Scheme of operation of a moonshine still with a steamer

Connecting elements

Intermediates play an important role. If you choose the wrong pipes or sealant, the moonshine turns out to be cloudy, with a nasty aftertaste, foul-smelling and even hazardous to health. Therefore, we will begin our consideration of the design with the connecting elements.

You should not “tightly” weld all the tubes together; this simplifies the assembly and disassembly of the device, but during cleaning it causes a lot of problems.

As transport system Most often, metal tubes made of stainless steel, aluminum or copper are used, as well as food grade or medical silicone hoses that are inert to alcohol. In terms of economy, safety, ease of maintenance and operation the best option The tubes are made from food grade stainless steel.

It is important to be able to distinguish silicone hoses from those made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride, when in contact with hot steam, saturates alcohol with toxic substances). PVC burns with a lot of smoke and an unpleasant odor. Silicone does not smoke when burned and leaves a subtle odor and light ash. Silicone tubes feel much softer to the touch than PVC ones, and their price is about twice as high.

Left - silicone, right - PVC

To branch turns, change from one diameter to another and connect different parts in metal pipelines, fittings and unions are used, which can be found in plumbing stores or on construction markets. Fittings made of brass, bronze and stainless steel (the best option) for heating systems that can withstand high temperatures and pressure are suitable for the manufacture of a moonshine still. For sealing purposes, the use of heat-resistant glue and cold welding is allowed, the main thing is to avoid rubber gaskets.

You can also use an organic substance to seal the tubes - ordinary dough, which does not affect the distillate. There are two disadvantages: it takes a lot of time to knead and seal joints, and after distillation, the dried dough has to be scraped off.

Sealing with dough is a touch of ancient traditions followed by scraping :)

The assembled moonshine still must be sealed. If steam leaks through the tubes, it is better to stop distillation, allow the equipment to cool, repair the breakdown, and only then continue distillation. Depressurization is not only dangerous due to fire, but also leads to significant losses of moonshine (10-70%).

Alembic

It is a container in which the mash boils during the heating process. Options:

1. Material. Aluminum - most often found in “Soviet” moonshine stills due to the widespread use of aluminum milk cans. Aluminum partially reacts with acids and alcohol in the mash, so when frequent use Aluminum stills (especially old ones) become unusable after just six months - a leak appears.

Enameled cookware is neutral to acids and alcohols. When used correctly (without bumps or scratches to the enamel) it can last 3-5 years even with regular use.

Food grade stainless steel is the best and reliable option, but stainless steel cubes are expensive; they often sell ordinary steel with galvanized or nickel plating under their guise, which is not so durable.

Copper cubes are also suitable, however, in most cases this is an unreasonably expensive solution, especially for novice moonshiners.

2. Volume and dimensions. The volume of the distillation cube depends on the needs of the moonshiner, the best option for home use– 25-35 liters.

Attention! For safety reasons, the distillation cube can be filled with mash to a maximum of 80% of the volume; take this into account when choosing a container. It is also very important that the lid is removable and the neck width is large enough for comfortable cleaning of the container after distillation.

The volume of the cube is calculated based on the needs for the finished product. For example, in a 30-liter container, you can get up to 2.88 liters of pure alcohol in one distillation (or 7.2 liters of moonshine with a strength of 40%). The maximum mash load is 24 liters (30 * 0.8 = 24). The average strength of properly made mash is 12%. The amount of distillate at the output is 24 * 0.12 = 2.88 (in terms of absolute alcohol with a strength of 100%). In practice, there will always be losses of moonshine of 8-15%.

We should not forget about the dimensions. At a minimum, the distillation cube must be placed on a stove or other heating element, be stable and not block the access to the entire apparatus. This is the basis of safety precautions.

3. Selecting a suitable container. Often, home moonshine stills use containers that were originally intended for other needs: milk cans, pressure cookers, or large enamel pans.

The cube must be reliable - it will expand when heated, and withstand high temperatures and pressure (180-220 Pa). Homemade welded containers are very dangerous, as there is a risk that Weld will burst at the most inopportune moment.

A significant drawback of pressure cooker cubes is their small volume, but these containers are initially airtight. The only modification required is to drill a hole in the lid for the steam outlet tube. described in a separate article.

You can’t distill a lot of mash in a pressure cooker at one time - the volume of the cube is too small

Enameled pans are convenient because the spent mash can not be poured, but can be immediately put into distillation as is (this is wrong, since the heated sediment increases the amount of harmful impurities in the moonshine and worsens the aroma and taste). The disadvantage of the pan is that it is difficult to seal the lid.

A milk can made of aluminum or stainless steel is the most practical solution. The only drawback of cans that requires mandatory elimination is the rubber gasket on the lid. The fact is that alcohol vapor absorbs substances from rubber, this negatively affects the quality, taste and smell of moonshine. Rubber gaskets must be replaced with silicone ones (made from aquarium silicone).

A can with built-in heating elements is cheap and practical. There are two holes on the top for steam and a thermometer.

How to make a distillation cube for a moonshine still from a can

It is not enough to correctly determine the volume of the container; you also need to prepare the cube for use - drill a hole for steam, seal the lid and connections. Next we will look at modifying the container using an old milk can as an example, but this method of sealing the lid is also suitable in other cases.

Can refinement technology:

1. Remove the rubber gasket from the cover.

2. Apply to the metal edges of the aquarium lid silicone sealant and leave until completely dry. Repeat the procedure 2-3 more times.

3. Place cellophane on the neck of the can and close the lid. Leave for a couple of hours until completely dry. You will get a silicone seal that replaces the rubber gasket.

Result

An alternative, simpler method of sealing is to overlap the rubber with several layers of fum tape and boil for 60 minutes in boiling water.

4. Make a hole in the can lid to connect to a coil or steamer. If the internal diameter of the coil is 12 mm, the suitable hole for the pipe in the can is 22 mm and the thread is 0.5 inches. Adapters are sold at plumbing supply stores.

To extend its service life, wash the can after each distillation with soap and plenty of running water. The use of soda and other cleaning products is strictly prohibited.

Moonshine still refrigerator

It consists of two parts - a coil (twisted tube) and a reservoir for cooling this tube. The cooling compartment is the most important element the entire structure, the functioning of which determines the quantity and quality of moonshine.

Coil parameters

1. Material. It must not react with alcohol (or have minimal contact), be safe and non-toxic, withstand high temperatures (up to 100°C), and have high thermal conductivity. Based on the requirements, four options are possible: copper, aluminum, stainless steel (food grade) and glass.

Copper has the highest thermal conductivity; another advantage is its relative ease of processing (soldering is possible). But this material has one feature - the copper coil requires periodic cleaning with vinegar or citric acid with boiling water (preferably after each distillation), otherwise the plaque accumulated after oxidation with alcohol will negatively affect the quality of the moonshine.

All moonshiners complaining about copper do not clean their devices well. In world distilling practice, copper is considered the best or even the only permitted material (France, Scotland) for the manufacture of distillers (alambics). Light oxidation of copper with alcohol improves taste because it reduces the amount of impurities with bad smell, and increases the concentration of substances that make moonshine soft.

The second most thermally conductive material for a coil is aluminum (1.6 times worse than copper). The advantages of aluminum are availability, low cost and ease of processing. But there is also a drawback - minimal oxidation, which, unlike copper, does not release into moonshine useful substances, so aluminum coils are not very common.

In terms of thermal conductivity, food grade stainless steel is 3-4 times inferior to copper. But this material does not react with alcohol and does not oxidize. Another disadvantage, along with low thermal conductivity, is the relative complexity of processing.

It is not possible to make a glass coil at home; without special equipment it is easier to buy a ready-made one laboratory device. Glass is inert towards alcohol, but is very fragile and has low thermal conductivity.

Copper coil is the best, but requires regular cleaning

2. Dimensions and thickness of the tube. The longer the tube, the larger the contact area of ​​the steam with the cooling element. But there is also a side effect of a long length - the hydraulic resistance increases (condensed vapors move along the tube already in liquid state), which reduces the transfer speed.

The optimal length of the coil tube (before the bend) is 1.5-2 meters.

The larger the internal diameter of the coil (section), the lower the hydraulic resistance and the more efficient the cooling (due to an increase in the area of ​​contact of the steam with the walls). But very large diameter tubes are bulky, require a lot of water for cooling and are difficult to process, so you have to look for a “golden mean”.

The minimum wall thickness increases thermal conductivity, which improves the condensation of alcohol vapors. But tubes that are too thin are very fragile and, with intensive use of the moonshine still, quickly break.

Suitable coil thickness is 0.9-1.1 mm.

3. Orientation in space. There are three connection options: horizontal, vertical and inclined.

Other things being equal vertical arrangement a coil is the most correct, since the condensed moonshine flows into the receiving container by gravity, without creating obstacles to the movement of alcohol vapor. Steam can be supplied to a vertical coil from above or below. To minimize resistance, it is correct to direct the steam to the top.

Refrigerator tank parameters

1. Substance. At home, the coil is cooled with air, water or ice. The vast majority of designs use water cooling, as the simplest and most effective.

Air cooling — beautiful view, but low efficiency

2. Heat removal diagram. Systems can be open (work on running water) and closed (the water remains in the tank without circulating, for example, the coil is lowered into a bucket). In terms of sales and savings closed systems simpler and more profitable, but the coil cools worse, which increases the loss of moonshine and has a bad effect on quality.

Bucket - classic example closed water cooling circuit

Flow circuits are more difficult to manufacture, use more water or energy for pumping (circulating a stable volume of water in order to save money), but they require a smaller reservoir and, all other things being equal, produce a high-quality distillate.

From a properly made refrigerator (coil plus water circulation system), moonshine comes out cold or room temperature, but not warm or hot. In this case, it is important to select the optimal heating intensity (not to exceed the maximum permissible heat supply power) so that the entire system effectively copes with steam condensation.

3. Direction of water supply. It is correct to supply water to the refrigerator from below, and remove it from above, so that the water moves towards the steam, creating a countercurrent, otherwise Bottom part the coil will not cool well.

Making a refrigerator (cooler)

You will need a copper, aluminum or stainless steel tube 1.5-2 meters long, 8-12 mm in diameter and 0.9-1.1 mm in wall thickness. A plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of 75-80 mm. A drawing of the moonshine still refrigerator is shown in the photo.

Sequencing:

1. Fill the coil tube with sand, soda or other dry, bulk material so that the metal does not flatten when curling. If at hand bulk materials no, you can simply fill the tube with water and freeze it.

2. Hammer the ends with wooden pegs (chops) so that the sand does not spill out. Can be tightly clamped or soldered. It is advisable to weld a nut on one end.

3. Wind the tube onto any smooth, cylindrical object with an even cross-section of suitable diameter (according to the drawing - 35 mm). The pitch between turns is 12 mm.

The number of turns in the coil is not of fundamental importance; with the values ​​of length, diameter and thickness indicated in the article, it is correct to make a step between turns of 12 mm.

4. Release the ends of the finished coil. Pour out the sand and rinse with water under pressure.

5. Install pipes for water supply and drainage on the cooler body.

6. Place the coil inside the housing. Install plugs at the top and bottom. Seal all connections.

Ready assembled cooler

The operating speed of the cooler of this design is up to 3 liters of moonshine per hour.

Steamer and bubbler

Optional, but desirable (especially for beginners) moonshine still modules.

A steam boiler is a sealed glass or metal container between the distillation cube and the refrigerator, into which the vapors are first cooled, and then some of the substances boil again and move into the coil.

The working principle of a steam steamer. Due to a sharp decrease in pressure (the volumes of the supply tube and the jar differ hundreds of times), the temperature drops, as a result the steam passes into the liquid phase (condenses), but is immediately heated by a new portion of hot steam from the cube, again turning into a gaseous state. But some of the water and fusel oils with a high boiling point do not have time to boil during this short moment of change in state of aggregation and remain at the bottom of the container.

Bubbler in a moonshine still– a device designed to pass alcohol vapor through a layer of liquid (water). Structurally, it differs from a steamer only in the presence of water in the container before distillation begins (not always), and in the fact that the steam supply tube is lowered into the can almost to the bottom. The purpose and principle of operation of the bubbler are the same as that of the steam steamer.

Connected steam tank Bubbler - the steam supply tube is lowered closer to the bottom, the distillate is flavored with lemon zest

Advantages of a steamer (bubbler):

• is protection against splashing - the ingress of mash into the finished moonshine when heated too much;
• makes the distillate stronger;
• cleans moonshine from some fusel oils (only a small part);
• allows you to flavor the alcohol during distillation (just put the zest in a jar citrus fruits, apple pieces, etc.).

It is advisable to use one steamer or bubbler in a moonshine still. Consecutive installation of 2-6 pieces only leads to an increase in the strength of the moonshine, but does not affect cleaning.

If the output moonshine is strong, for example, even 80-90 degrees, this does not mean that the drink is well purified, there is simply water left in the steamers and (or) bubblers, which should have condensed in the coil, reducing the strength of the distillate. All harmful impurities that can be cleaned with a steamer remain in the first jar, and in subsequent jars only water is removed from the moonshine. You should not think that in terms of the degree of purification, 6-8 steamers can replace rectification or fractional distillation; this is physically impossible.

How to make a steamer or bubbler

The volume of the steam tank (bubbler) should be 10 times less than the volume of the distillation cube.

You will need:

• glass jar with a metal lid or other sealed container;
• 2 fittings;
• 2 nuts;
• marker;
• awl;
• heat-resistant glue or cold welding.

Instructions:

1. Mark the diameter of the holes at the intended connection points: attach the fittings to the cover and circle them with a marker.

2. Make holes. The easiest option is to move an awl along the drawn lines until the metal of the lid is rubbed through.

3. Install the fittings and secure with nuts. To seal, process the holes from the outside and inside cold welding or heat-resistant glue.

Inner side

Outer side

Bubbler manufacturing sequence

4. When connecting to a moonshine still, it should be taken into account that in the steamer the inlet tube should be 15-30 mm lower than the outlet tube (lowered deeper into the jar). In a bubbler, the incoming tube runs along the entire height of the jar, without touching the bottom at a distance of 2-3 cm.

If the bubbler is connected incorrectly (steam is supplied through the short end, but tries to escape through the long end), the pressure in the jar increases significantly and an explosion may occur!

There is only one drawback of bubblers and steamers from a jar - there is no drain for the accumulated liquid (you have to unscrew it), and during fractional distillation it is advisable to clean the container before collecting the “body” (the main fraction).

A more complex steamer with drain

Methods for heating a moonshine still

1. Open fire. In most cases, this means heating at gas stove or a burner, but there are also coal and wood. The advantages of this method: simplicity, accessibility and often cost-effectiveness.

Flaws:

• high inertia - it will not be possible to quickly reduce or increase power, as a result, it is difficult to control the temperature in the cube; experience is required;
• it is very difficult to insulate the distillation cube to reduce heat loss in order to save money;
• installation of automation is practically useless;
• high fire hazard of open fire.

Distillation at fresh air firewood. What kind of device, what color of moonshine

2. Built-in electric heating elements. Devices (one or several at once) are mounted directly into the cube. Heating elements made of stainless steel or brass are suitable.

Advantages:

• quick temperature change (high controllability);
• possibility to install automation and insulate the cube.

Flaws:

• solid particles may burn to work surface heating elements, careful filtration of the mash is required before distillation;
• Electric heating is often more expensive than gas heating;
• From time to time the heating elements burn out.

3. Induction cooker. It runs on electricity and can be stationary or portable (used more often in moonshine).

Advantages:

• low inertia – quick change in heating intensity;
• good temperature control - induction cookers are equipped with automation, no need to install separate units;
• in comparison with heating elements, the entire surface of the bottom of the cube is evenly heated; burning of the mash occurs in rare cases.

Flaws:

• the cost of an induction cooker is quite high;
• You can only use distillation cubes made from materials containing a magnet (stainless steel, cast iron), while aluminum and copper containers without magnetic inserts welded to the bottom are not suitable for heating.

On induction cooker Only stainless steel and cast iron cubes can be heated

4. Heating using steam (steam generator). First, the water is brought to a boil and served directly into the container or onto the outer walls. The system allows you to control (automate) the entire process and eliminate the risk of burning, therefore it is suitable for distilling thick mash. But due to the complexity of implementing the design and the need to purchase (manufacture) special equipment (steam generator), it will not be considered further here.

Installing thermometers in a moonshine still

You can do without measuring the temperature, but a correctly installed thermometer allows you to change the container in time during fractional distillation and adjust the heating intensity.

Three types of thermometers are used in moonshine stills (according to the principle of operation):

• bimetallic - a metal tape or spiral acts as a sensor;
• electronic - a special conductor changes resistance when temperature fluctuates;
• digital - measurements are recorded due to changes in pressure.

The most reliable are bimetallic thermometers, but the accuracy of these devices leaves much to be desired. Electronic thermometers much more accurate, but with the slightest impact they can break or show the wrong temperature. Digital thermometers are leaders in accuracy, but are expensive.

During distillation, you cannot rely entirely on the readings of the thermometer, especially the first time, when the operating modes of the homemade moonshine still have not yet been tested. Temperature values ​​are auxiliary data. At the exit, the moonshine should be cold or at room temperature, and during fractional distillation, divide the output into fractions correctly by pure alcohol, sugar content in the mash or by smell (method of experienced distillers).

Fastening. The thermometer in the moonshine still can be installed at the outlet of the cube (in the upper part) or in front of the entrance to the refrigerator. The second option is preferable, as it allows you to measure the temperature of the steam before condensation. But the thermometer in the cube (the first case) shows the degree of heating of the mash, which is also important. Conclusion: if possible, it is advisable to install two thermometers at once.

Thermometers can be placed on the cube or in front of the refrigerator

For installation, it is enough to make a hole, the diameter of which coincides with the diameter of the thermometer installation cylinder (fastenings with Velcro and plastic clips are not suitable). Fix the cylinder from the inside with a bolt and secure the structure with a nut. Then insert the thermometer itself.

Attention! When starting up for the first time, a home moonshine still should be tested by distilling water, and not immediately filled with mash. Distilling water is safer, immediately shows problems (if any) and thoroughly rinses all parts of the structure.