Homemade wind generator from an asynchronous motor. Independent design and manufacture of a vertical windmill based on an asynchronous motor. Homemade wind generator for home and garden

Verification: 72146f0e872f9296

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Selling wind generator power 300 watts, with plastic blades, rotating device, with charge controller. Suitable for lighting without any problems small house. Possibility of connecting an inverter and obtaining full 220V for connecting a TV, computer and other devices, for lighting the facade of a house, for alternative power supply for video cameras and burglar alarm, for fishermen and beekeepers, for dachas and farms remote from state energy.

The disk contains many programs, also a lot of literature, in general, let's watch the presentation.

The third version of this disk has appeared, now the disk has even more powerful content (more than 20 programs, 37 films, 22 books, one interactive, detailed description 3 wind generators, and also contains a detailed description for manufacturing solar panels). And that's not all, Disk has access to a free Internet library, a forum on alternative energy, and my website. You will be pleased with the user-friendly interface). For those who have access to the Internet and there are no restrictions on downloading, you can purchase the files on this disc for the equivalent of $10. To do this, contact me via Email- [email protected] As soon as I receive the money, I immediately send the file and passwords to it to your address. The disk contains information about the calculations and construction of wind generators. There are a lot of photos, videos, there is a video in 3-D detailing of the generator, a lot of books, and software. Everything is fair. My website http://site/

My email yalovenkoval @i.ua

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and now, as I promised, I’m posting Full description, drawings, as well as the opportunity to fully understand and manufacture a really working wind generator design based on an ASYNCHRONOUS motor. In this article I will try to describe without concealment all the nuances of building a windmill that I encountered during manufacture, and I think many of you will be able to not only repeat it, but also make it better and more powerful, the main thing is to have a great desire and figure it out.

It’s probably not worth telling that the INTERNET is littered with information about the construction of wind turbines, but a lot of it is just Flood, or this information is paid. I don’t ask for money, but I don’t refuse either, any work should be ennobled, and if I helped you, and if you are not indifferent, and you have the desire and opportunity to help at least a little, you can transfer any possible amount, ( possible options via Email)and you will also have the opportunity to communicate via SKYPE or by phone.

WIND GENERATOR WITH AN INDUCTION ELECTRIC MOTOR from Valery.

Let's start with the fact that there are at least three ways to create a wind generator with A synchronous motor.

FIRST- the simplest, but also the most ineffective for a wind generator, the essence is this, you need to find a working one asynchronous electric motor, preferably up to 1000 RPM, i.e. the most best option this is a motor that has 6 or 8 poles, you can read http://model.exponenta.ru/electro/0080.htm and here http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%90%D1%81%D0 %B8%D0%BD%D1%85%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BD%D0%B0%D1%8F_%D0%BC%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%B8 %D0%BD%D0%B0 nothing has been changed in the engine. We connect the capacitors, attach a multiplier (step-up gearbox), so that the electric motor reaches its rated speed with a minimum wind that can ensure the generator operates in nominal mode. This design can be implemented in sailing wind generators, where the torque is very high. As a rule, this option is more used to generate electricity when the generator is forced to spin up by an internal combustion engine. http://rove.biz/index.php/sdelai-sam/220-380

SECOND- the option is more complex, but also much more effective. This option is described in some detail by Nikolai http://tng-forum.ru/topic55.html, so here it is in a nutshell; It is necessary to find a working low-speed electric motor with 6 or 8 poles (up to 1000 RPM). The stator is not rewound; only the armature itself is altered. Since the prices for NEODYMIUM magnets are very high, it is necessary to somehow save on them, and in order to save on magnets and not lose power, it is imperative to place a metal sleeve under the magnets (so that the magnetic fields are closed through the metal and not through the air). Therefore, the armature must be machined to the depth of the sleeve + magnet + gap between the stator and the armature, press the sleeve in, then glue Right magnets (after making a fur coat for magnets). An even better option is if it is possible to machine a completely new armature for magnets. The result is a good generator, which at rated speed produces three phases of 220V.

There are a few pitfalls here that many remain silent about - the thickness of the sleeve should be no less than the thickness of the magnet (ideally equal to approximately width magnet) In order not to doubt the thickness of the sleeve, you can easily check everything - we apply two magnets with different poles to the sleeve, while using a screwdriver with inside The sleeve should not be magnetized; if this is the case, then the thickness of the sleeve is correct. Optimal thickness magnet is calculated using the formula:

S /8+Z =M S groove height+yoke

M -Z =S /8 Z gap between stator and armature

M -Z *8=S M magnet height

And one more basic condition - it is necessary to make a bevel magnetic poles, otherwise it will be quite difficult to turn the anchor; there will be strong sticking, which we do not need.

The easiest way to get rid of sticking is to make a bevel on magnets, usually everyone writes on the forums that the bevel is done on an obvious magnet, but it would probably be more correct to say: - bevel on a tooth + groove (on the stator), with minimal sticking.

The ratio of coils to magnets should be 3 to 2, i.e. for every three coils there should be two poles (S and N), for example, if there are 54 slots on the stator and a coil is wound on each tooth, the generator is three-phase (in one phase we get 54/3 = 18 coils per phase), then these 54 The coil should arrive at 54/3*2=36 magnetic poles (18S and 18N). Ideally, there should always be 1.5 times fewer magnets than coils (for a three-phase generator).

And finally, THIRD option - it is the most difficult, there is a lot of turning work, but this option is the most effective. The whole difficulty is that the generator is made from *scratch*, i.e. Only the stator iron is used from the electric motor, everything else is your creative work! This option is good because you can wind the generator yourself to any output voltage you need, and thereby adjust the operation of the windmill to your needs.

In order to do good generator You need, say, at a scrap metal site, to find the stator of a low-speed motor. The one with the number of slots is 36,48,54 or 72 is suitable, and the more slots, the slower the generator will be, and the larger the diameter of the stator, the more power can be removed from it. But in this case, the weight of NEODYMIUM magnets increases, and this is already a decent expense; here is exactly the moment where you need to choose between expenses and the output power of the generator. In order not to strain your brain with all sorts of formulas for calculating the output power of the generator, it is enough to understand that the weight of the magnets is approximately the output power of the generator, for example, the total weight of the magnets is 1 kg, then the power of the generator will be approximately 1 kW.

These were general aspects of making windmills with an asynchronous motor, and now a description of my windmill.

WE LEARN FROM OTHERS' MISTAKES, AND WE MAKE OUR OWN MISTAKES...

- the first axiom from Valery

After manufacturing the axial generator http://valerayalovencko.narod2.ru, I wanted to try to make the generator more powerful, and this is where the study of the theory of manufacturing generators from asynchronous motors began.

I received the main breakthrough in knowledge about generators after meeting SERGEY SAVCHENKO aka SERGEY VETROV http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru. That's when everything moved from a dead point. As Sergei said from his experience, for an ideal generator you need to look for the electric motor stator according to the following parameters:

Stator inner diameter number of teeth

240-330mm 54-72

Three-phase generator winding

First of all, it was necessary to find stator iron for the future gene. I visited scrap metal collection points several times and there I found a burnt-out 4 kW engine, and although the stator did not quite fit the required parameters (54 slots on the stator, tooth width 5mm, slot width 3mm, internal diameter of the stator 130mm), I nevertheless decided to try to make a gene with of what is.

The motor housing was cast iron, I did not intend to use it, so I cut it on both sides with a grinder, inserted a chisel and split the cast iron housing with a hammer. After that, without any problems, I pulled out the motor stator and cut off all the windings from it.

Then, with a thin chisel, I cut off the fixing brackets (I had 6 of them on the stator), measured and cut off the 40mm of iron I needed, to the size of the magnets.

I used NEODYMIUM magnets N 38 with dimensions 40*10*5.

I bought the magnets via the Internet http://neodim.if.ua/, I was pleased with the services of this site, they were sent quickly and without problems by new mail, even to my surprise they were a little lower in price. The dimensions of these magnets fit my stator well (let me remind you, three teeth or two magnets).

I decided to do the bevel of magnetic fields on iron.

To prevent the iron from falling apart, I inserted electrodes without coating into the grooves (they fit just right). Using a sharp knife, I separated each plate, and all this constantly remained on two oppositely inserted electrodes (so as not to disrupt the factory sequence of the plates).

When all the plates were disconnected, I turned the iron on the electrodes to bevel an equal tooth + groove, fixed it all with clamps, on flat surface Using a corner, I adjusted the alignment of all the plates, and in the place where the fixing brackets stood, I welded the iron with electric welding. I got a finished bagel with the bevel I needed.

Because the the required pipe under outside diameter I couldn’t find the stator, I decided to use a larger diameter pipe, welded guide segments inside this pipe and machined them to the outer diameter of the stator I needed.

A drawing was drawn

according to which my godfather VITALY ZAVGORODNY, fulfilling all my turning requests, turned the body, and then all the other parts of the generator. Here on a separate line:-

HUGE THANK YOU , since at least 50% of the generator is the merit of the godfather.

The bearing assembly was taken ready-made - this is the front hub of a VAZ car.

I tried to make the entire structure as compact as possible, thereby reducing weight without damaging the generator. A load-bearing plane was made to which all the load-bearing elements of the structure are attached.

The anchor was also made from a pipe of only a smaller diameter; the anchor is also an element for fastening the swings of the blades. I increased the thickness of the armature, exactly the place where the magnets are glued in, to reliably close the magnetic fields. To do this, three thick washers turned from metal were pressed into the inside of the sleeve and welded (since I did not have a whole piece of such a metal blank). Three holes were milled on the sleeve for the swing of the blades with a diameter of 35 mm at an angle of 120 degrees. Sergey Vetrov helped me with this http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru, he also milled the grooves in the cups for the swing of the blades, and welded these cups to the armature sleeve.

The armature axis is also from the front hub of the VAZ, only on it they were cut off at lathe ears under ball joints. The axle is pressed into the armature sleeve and bolted.

36 magnets were glued to the anchor. Before pasting, the anchor was drawn out on a machine, but since it was not possible to draw it into 36 parts, I had to draw it into 12 parts, i.e. There were three magnets in one sector.

First, all the magnets were glued, say pole S,

and then, without any problems, all the magnets with the N pole were glued between them (every other).

I used two-component glue, squeezed it out drop by drop directly onto the magnet S and mixed it directly on the magnet, and when gluing the N poles, I mixed the glue directly on the armature between the magnets.

Before winding the stator, you need to decide which wire to wind and how many turns to wind. To do this, we wind at least three coils different wire, we assemble the entire structure and test it at constant speeds. I tested on a lathe at 400 RPM. At the same time, we measure voltage and current as at XX ( Idling) and with the load. We record all the data, decide what voltage we need the generator for, and wind what we need.

The current in the circuit will not change, but the voltage must be multiplied by the number of coils in the phase, and then by a factor of 1.73 - this is for variable, and for constant, the result obtained must be multiplied by a factor of 1.4. At the same time (for example my genes), we have: 2*18*1.73*1.4=87.2V constant at 400 RPM. Since the dependence on revolutions is linear, then at 200 RPM we get 44V constant, minus losses on the wires, and we have an excellent result for charging two or three batteries.

THE MORE PRACTICE, THE MORE QUESTIONS IN THE THEORY.

-second axiom from Valery.

And so, having decided on the number of turns and the thickness of the wire, we wind all the coils. For winding, I made a simple device; I wound the coils on a homemade machine. http://youtu.be/8jmUUkRW11k I bought the wire in Kharkov, at the company OOO * KHARELEKTROMET *.

Several jigs for forming and laying coils were also made, as well as insulating material(electric cardboard).

Then we place all the coils in the stator slots,

we solder it correctly, for a three-phase generator - the beginning of the first coil with the end of the fourth, the beginning of the fourth with the end of the seventh, the beginning of the seventh with the end of the tenth, etc. We solder the second and third phases in the same way.

Then we wrap the windings with keeper tape, I didn’t have it, I fastened the windings with regular thick thread.

We saturate all the windings with varnish (I used regular parquet), and bake the whole pancake. I baked it in an old gas oven for two hours at over 100 degrees (the sensor didn't work). The result is a pretty good stator impregnated with varnish.

All that remains is to make a protective boot on the front of the genes, paint all the elements and assemble the structure into one unit, and do not forget to lubricate the bearings.

The very first tests, running the generator on a lathe, the result on video

From the very beginning, I planned to make some kind of simple rotary unit for the blades of a variable pitch propeller (variable pitch propeller). The idea of ​​the CVS was suggested by Sergei Vetrov. Three thrust cups were made (in which Sergei milled an oblique groove),

three rotary axles with flanges are machined. To make it easy to set the wedge angle of the blade, three more cups were made into which the blades were glued. The glass on the blade has a fungus that is pressed against the second flange and fixes any jamming angle of the blade.

The support bearing on the swing axis was taken from the king pin of a *VOLGA* car, and the springs were taken from the valve mechanism of an unknown car.

The principle of operation of the rotary propeller is very simple - as the rotation speed increases, the blade, under the influence of centrifugal force, begins to move along the groove, and at the same time scrolls to the vane position. This ensures stable speed in any gust of wind. All rubbing parts are lubricated, the axis inside the glass is fixed with a corkscrew bolt. This entire device is covered with a boot (the boot fits perfectly from the steering rack of the *TAVRIA* car)

When the entire mechanism is assembled,

it is necessary to adjust the equal forces on the springs, the easiest way is to use scales. Using the nut on the swing axis, we adjust the spring force, setting the same lift-off moment on all swings of the blades. We set the lift-off weight experimentally, it all depends on the weight of the blade and the rotation speed. We close the CVS mechanism with a pre-machined cap. The protective cap was poured with epoxy + wood dust in a suitable form, followed by turning on a lathe. I attached a contact block to the generator, on which you can easily switch the connections of the windings, and a three-phase bridge from which two wires already go down to the ground.

The rotary unit is made in the same way as in the previous design, i.e. on the mast there are two bearings 206 mounted on an axle with a hole,

and a sleeve with welded generator mounting elements is pressed onto the bearings.

To attach the generator to the mast, I used parts from a Buryak combine. The tail is made of PCB and fixed coaxially with the generator. For reliable protection against hurricane wind The generator is mounted on the shock absorber.

The entire structure is durable and compact,

Now I have to do a small modification of the mast and make a controller.

I’m thinking of describing everything in detail closer to winter, since it’s already summer, and this is a time of work and rest, and there’s not enough money and time for everything.

To be continued…

Well, as promised, I decided to finish the article, I’m still not entirely sure how It’s hard for me to succeed, but I’ll try.

I'll start with the fact that I modified the mast a little. Now I added another flange. I also did another series of stretches. The height of the mast at the moment is 10 meters, although in the future I plan to raise it to 12 meters, this is the minimum height at which more uniform winds begin.

Initially, the Controller was made according to a proven scheme,

with only one difference: instead of a relay, I installed a powerful field-effect transistor, which directly turns on the ballast after the battery is fully charged. .Setting up the circuit is not complicated, you just need to set the upper and lower response thresholds.

But. then a simpler and more reliable controller was made with the ability to independently charge different batteries, and the ability to switch to 12 and 24 volt mode.

This is what it looks like inside

The performance of this controller, and at the same time the wind generator, can be seen here

For emergency braking of a windmill, say in the event of a hurricane, forced activation of the ballast through a relay is provided. Optimal load generator when braking should be 50 percent generator efficiency. More in clear language, The load resistance must be equal to the generator resistance, only in this case the generator is effectively braked.

Made plastic blades with a diameter of 2.6 meters sergeyvetrov here is his website http://ser-vetrov2012-savchenko.narod2.ru, for which many thanks to him.

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The question of wind power generators is very relevant in our time. Many European manufacturers offer wind generators of different capacities, but they are not cheap. And the entire system, including a wind power generator, an inverter for converting direct current into alternating current and batteries, is a very expensive pleasure that is unlikely to pay for itself in the near future. Such wind installations cannot be afforded by an ordinary consumer of electrical energy.

From all that has been said, we can conclude that the most pressing issue is to reduce the cost of generating electricity from wind.

When using generators on permanent magnets, you can get a not very high voltage, as a rule, it does not exceed 10 V. And besides, the wind speed is not a constant value. Installations on such generators must always be equipped with batteries and an inverter. But based on the fact that the most optimal batteries are 150 A/h batteries, it is unlikely that anyone will want to get involved with such expensive project(for example, the battery of the PT-76 tank weighs 65 kg and is designed for 140 A/h).

Both automobile generators and synchronous motors were used as generators. But both options have the same drawback: the engine rotor speed is too high, and this in turn leads to an increase in the gear ratio, and hence the dimensions of the wind wing. You can also add instability of the operating frequency and the difficulty of stabilizing the output voltage, and in the case of a synchronous motor, even larger dimensions and weight. To stabilize the output voltage, you can use batteries and an inverter, but this will lead to the circuit that is currently used by European manufacturers, which will not be discussed here because it is very expensive.

During long searches and experiments, preference was given to a generator based on an asynchronous motor with a squirrel-cage rotor. When using this scheme, many advantages and only one disadvantage were identified.

Advantages: small dimensions and weight with sufficient high power; no need for excitation voltage; if you use a low-speed engine, then the rotor power can be reduced; the output frequency is practically independent of the rotor speed.

Flaw: This generator must not be overloaded.

The connection diagram for an asynchronous motor with a squirrel-cage rotor is shown in Figure No. 1. When the motor rotor rotates, a residual magnetic field acts on one of the stator windings. In this case, a small electric current arises, which charges one of the capacitors C1-C3. Due to the fact that the phase of the voltage on the capacitor lags behind, a magnetic field of greater magnitude appears on the rotor, which acts on the next winding. Accordingly, the next capacitor will be charged at a higher voltage. This process continues until the generator rotor enters saturation (1...1.15 s). After this, you can turn on the B2 machine and use the energy generated by the generator. Moreover, for normal operation of the engine in generator mode, the load power should be no more than 80% of the engine used as a generator. The remaining 20% ​​is used to maintain the voltage on the capacitors, i.e. maintaining the generator in working condition. If exceeded this condition the voltage on the capacitors will disappear, which means the magnetic field on the armature will disappear, which will lead to the disappearance of voltage at the terminals of the B2 machine. Moreover, this happens almost instantly.

This has its drawbacks and its advantages. The disadvantage is that reapplying voltage is possible only when the cause of the overload is eliminated and the B2 circuit breaker is turned off. The generator will sleepily enter operating mode (in 1...1.5 s). After this, you can turn on B2 and use the energy. An advantage is the fact that it is almost impossible to burn the generator, since the voltage at its terminals disappears instantly within 0.1...0.5 s. Output voltage has a sinusoidal shape and is completely suitable for further use. The generator output frequency is 46…60 Hz, which in most cases is sufficient for home use. Due to the instability of the voltage at the voltage output, it is necessary to install a stabilizer (a description of the circuit and operation is described in an additional article).

The capacity of additional capacitors is indicated in Table No. 1, per kilowatt of the specified motor power, and for operation with a load - additional capacitance for each kilowatt of load.

Table No. 1 Capacity of capacitors included in the phases, in microfarads per 1 kW of power.

For example, there is a 3 kW motor. It is supposed to connect a reactive load (electric motor, welding machine), with a total power of approximately 2 kW. In this case, we want the voltage between the phases to be 380. This means that the capacitance of capacitor C1 will be (35) + (26) microfarads. Since C1=C2=C3, we will need three capacitors with a capacity of 30 μF. If there are no capacitors of the required capacity, then you can connect capacitors in parallel with a smaller capacity. Capacitors must be paper or metal-paper for a voltage of at least 450 V, and preferably 650 V. It is better to turn on the generator at a voltage between phases of 220 V, and between zero and phase 127 V. This is due to the fact that for normal operation of the generator there should be no phase imbalance exceed. With this scheme, it will be possible to unload the generator as much as possible. In addition, it is better to power incandescent lighting lamps and some heating devices with direct current.

For the generator it is necessary to use a low-speed motor with a squirrel-cage rotor. It is best to use a 360...720 rpm engine, but a 910 rpm engine will also work. This is caused by the need to rotate the rotor at approximately twice the speed specified in the engine data sheet, and by a decrease in the gearbox gear ratio.

The wind generator itself can be made in any design convenient for you. It is also offered here next construction. The principle of operation is shown in Figure 3 and does not need explanation. The wind turbine (Figure No. 4) consists of a wind wing 1, a support 2 and the generator itself 3. The support is rigidly concreted and reinforced with three tension cables 4. The support can be made of wood, concrete, or metal. You can use a support that is used to transmit electricity over a distance, or your own. Best used as stretch marks steel rope with a diameter of 10..12 mm. The crutches to which the guy wires are attached must be well concreted. The frame of the wind turbine wings can be made from pipes with a diameter of 1 inch; its drawing is shown in Figure No. 5. Ailerons can be made from steel rod with a diameter of 6mm. Used as a leading ox thick wall pipe with a diameter of 2..2.5 inches, into the lower end of which a shaft 300...400 mm long is pressed. At the lower end of the shaft there is a groove for the pulley. The bearings are spherical with tapered clamps brand 2000810 with a corresponding housing.

After assembly, the wing must be balanced. The balanced wing can be attached to the support using any in a convenient way, but the main thing is that the fastening is sufficiently rigid and reliable. It was experimentally established that the best material To cover the wing, a polyethylene film with a thickness of 80...120 microns is used. It is quite durable, lightweight and cheap, allowing you to do away with the brake mechanism, which, by the way, is in this case unacceptable, since strong wind the wing will be destroyed. You need to cover it with plastic film in several layers, soldering it at the seams, using a soldering iron through a piece polyethylene film. The welded seam must be equal and strong.

A gearbox is used to drive the generator shaft. You can use a gearbox of any system except a worm gear. As already mentioned, the generator shaft needs to be rotated at approximately twice the speed, and the wind turbine shaft rotates at a speed of 500 rpm at a wind speed of 5 m/s. Hence the limitation on using the engine as a generator. Nai the best option there may be a 360 rpm engine, but you can also use a 720 rpm engine. When using the engine, the wing height can be increased by 500 mm. It is not recommended to increase the width of the wing, since this reduces the rotation speed; the same should not be decreased, since with an increase in the rotation speed, the power will greatly decrease, and the law of decrease is not linear.

When selecting a gearbox, you must be guided by the following rules: for the nominal speed of the wind turbine wing you need to take the value of 500 rpm, which corresponds to a wind speed of 5 m/s, the engine shaft rotation speed increases by 2.3, then by simple calculations we obtain the transmission coefficient. The bracket itself is easy to attach to the support using six studs. Fastening with a gear reducer is much easier. It is not recommended to make the wind turbine shaft too long, as it may simply twist. The entire structure must be grounded. The grounding resistance should be no more than 2 ohms. At the foot it is necessary to place a cabinet in which it is necessary to place capacitors C1-C3, circuit breakers B1-B2, diodes V1-V6, a voltage stabilizer, a control machine, four batteries and a powerful voltage converter to provide energy during calm periods. The automatic control ensures switching of power circuits depending on the load and wind speed. A powerful voltage converter provides battery charging while the generator is idling, as well as powering the network from batteries in the absence of wind or when the voltage on the generator is very low. When there is no voltage and the batteries are discharged, the automatic control system supplies energy from the standard network.

The cable used to connect the generator and the power cabinet must be three-phase with a core cross-section of no more than. The cables used to connect the cabinet to consumers can be the same. The grounding bus must have a cross-section of at least.

Attention! All installation work must be carried out with the B1 circuit breaker turned off and the capacitors C1-C3 discharged.

To make a wind generator with a power of up to 1 kW with your own hands, there is no need to purchase special equipment. This task easy to solve if you have an asynchronous motor. Moreover, the indicated power will be quite sufficient to create conditions for the operation of individual household appliances and connect street lighting in the garden at the dacha.

If you make a windmill with your own hands, then you will have a free source of energy that you can use at your discretion. Any House master is able to independently manufacture a wind generator based on an asynchronous motor.

What does the generator consist of?

The generating set that will generate electricity includes the following main elements:

Principle of operation

Exploitation homemade windmills carried out by analogy with wind generators which are used in industry. The main purpose is to generate alternating voltage, for which kinetic energy is transformed into electrical energy. The wind drives a rotor-type wind wheel, as a result of which the resulting energy flows from it to the generator. Moreover, usually the role of the latter is performed by an asynchronous motor.

As a result of the current generated by the generator, the latter enters the battery, which is equipped with a module and a charge controller. From there it is sent to a DC inverter, the source of which is the power grid. As a result manages to create AC voltage , the characteristics of which are suitable for use for domestic purposes (220 V 50 Hz).

A controller is used to transform AC voltage into DC voltage. It is with its help that the batteries are charged. In some cases, inverters are capable of performing the functions of a source uninterruptible power supply. In other words, in case of problems with the power supply, they can be used as a power source household devices batteries or generators.

Materials and tools

To make a wind generator, it is enough to have an asynchronous motor, which will have to be redone. At the same time, you will have to stock up on a number of materials:

Generator characteristics and installation

The generator has the following characteristics:

Installation features

Most often, installing a generator yourself is done using a three-bladed wind wheel, reaching a diameter of about 2 m. The decision to increase the number of blades or their length does not lead to improved performance. Regardless of the chosen option regarding the configuration, dimensions and shape of the blades, preliminary calculations should first be performed.

During self-installation you need to pay attention to such a parameter as the condition of the soil in the area where the support and guy wires will be placed. The mast is installed by digging a hole no more than 0.5 m deep, which must be filled with concrete mortar.

Network connection carried out in a strictly defined order: the batteries are connected first, followed by the wind generator itself.

The rotation of the wind generator can be carried out horizontally or vertical plane. In this case, the choice is usually made on the vertical plane, which is related to the structural design. It is permissible to use Darrieus and Savonius models as rotors.

The installation design must use sealing gaskets or a cap. Thanks to this decision The generator will not be harmed by moisture.

The location of the mast and support must be selected open place. A suitable height for the mast is 15 m. In this case greatest distribution got the masts, whose height does not exceed 5-7 m.

It is optimal if a self-made wind generator performs the functions backup source nutrition.

These installations have restrictions on their use, since their operation is only possible in those regions where the wind speed reaches about 7-8 m/s.

Before you start creating a windmill with your own hands, do accurate calculations. In some cases, difficulties arise with processing asynchronous motor components;

A windmill cannot be created without electrical modules, as well as a series of experiments.

How to make an asynchronous generator with your own hands?

Although, always you can buy ready-made asynchronous generator , you can go the other way and save money by making it yourself. There will be no difficulties here. The only thing you need to do is prepare the necessary tools.

1. One of the features of the generator is that it should rotate at a higher speed, rather than the engine. This can be achieved in the following way. After starting, you need to find out the engine rotation speed. A tachometer or tachometer will help us solve this problem.
2. Having determined the above parameter, 10% should be added to the value. If, for example, its torque is 1200 rpm, then for a generator it will be 1320 rpm.
3. To make an electric generator based on an asynchronous motor, you will need to find suitable container for capacitors. Moreover, it should be remembered that everything capacitors should not differ in their phases from each other.
4. It is recommended to use a medium-sized container. If it turns out to be too large, it will lead to heating of the asynchronous motor.
5. For assembly capacitors should be used, which can guarantee the desired rotation speed. Their installation must be taken very seriously. It is recommended to protect them using special insulating materials.

These are all the operations that must be performed when installing an engine-based generator. Then you can proceed to its installation. Please be aware that when using a device equipped with a squirrel-cage rotor, you will receive a current of high voltage. For this reason, to achieve a value of 220 V, you will need a step-down transformer.

Today, the idea of ​​​​using alternative energy sources that make it possible to provide users with electricity in hard to reach places. The impetus for the construction of generators was the spread of neodymium magnets, which have modest dimensions and weight, but provide a stable and powerful magnetic field. To harness the power of the wind, it is possible to make a wind generator with your own hands from scrap materials.

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The principle of operation of a wind turbine

The operation of a wind generator is based on obtaining electric current by rotating a wheel with several blades under the force of wind pressure.

Rotation occurs at low speeds and is transmitted to the gears of the overdrive gearbox. A generator is installed on the output shaft, which generates electricity.

The design has a control controller that regulates the parameters of generation and distribution of electricity. Low-power home-made installations do not have a control system.

Types of wind turbines

1. The operating principle of the devices differs depending on the types of installations, which are: Rotary with drive and generator axes. The advantage of the circuit is its sensitivity and ability to operate at low wind speeds.
2. Winged, which have a horizontal design and are driven by a wheel with several blades (propeller). The propeller is equipped with one, two or several blades, which have a rigid or sail design. Sailing products are inexpensive, but are not durable. On large installations, it is possible to rotate the blades, which increases the efficiency of the installation.
3. Drum-type, with a vertical arrangement of the axes of the working units.

The schematic drawing shows a sample of a wind turbine generator built on the basis of a bicycle generator (in diagram G1).

Wind generator

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of the installations are:

• environmental friendliness and the ability to work without burning fuel;
• use of a renewable (in fact, inexhaustible) source of energy for operation;
• ease of maintenance.

TO negative traits include:

• unstable power characteristics that depend on wind strength;
• the need to accumulate excess electricity (typical for large-sized installations);
• noise during operation (the problem concerns generators with large wheel diameters);
• high price.

The general principles of operation of an autonomous wind generator are outlined in a video from the author Darkhan Dogalakov.

Before purchasing a unit or trying to assemble it yourself, you should evaluate the economic effect of its use.

In addition, before installing the wind generator, it is recommended to conduct an aerial survey of the installation site.

There are three zones on the wind speed map, each of which has its own types of installations:

1. For wind zones with speeds less than 3 m/s, the use of devices with sail impellers is recommended. These installations are capable of operating in low wind conditions and providing power up to 2-3 kW.
2. With winds up to 5 m/s, it is possible to use factory installations or homemade vertical structures.
3. In areas with wind speeds of more than 5 m/s, the use of any installation is justified. It all depends on the budget and the required power.

Wind speed map

What you will need

Various nodes from household appliances and cars. Some tools and materials required during the work process may vary depending on the base of the device.

To create from a washing machine

To complete the work of creating a wind generator from washing machine will be needed:

• electric motor from a washing machine with a power of 1.4-1.6 kW;
• 32 neodymium magnets with a diameter of 10-12 mm;
• sandpaper;
• epoxy resin or cold welding;
• screwdriver;
• current rectifier;
• tester.

To create from an asynchronous motor

To make a device from an asynchronous motor for a private home, you may need:

• steel water pipe with an outer diameter of 70-80 mm for building a mast;
• material for the impeller blades (aluminum tube, thin wooden boards, fiberglass) or ready-made factory-made blades;
• materials for making the foundation (boards, pipe or profile cuttings, cement mortar);
• steel rope;
• thin sheet metal or moisture-resistant plywood for the shank;
• asynchronous motor (the most popular models are AIR80 or AIR71);
• additional neodymium magnets.

To create from plastic bottles

To make a small wind generator based on plastic bottles, you do not need expensive materials.

Materials and tools for assembling a wind generator from plastic bottles:

• steel or chrome-plated tube with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of up to 1.0 mm with a total length of 3000 mm;
• cylindrical plastic bottles with a volume of 1.5 liters - 16 pieces (when using bottles of a larger volume, you may have to recalculate the dimensions of the shaft);
• bottle caps in the amount of 16 units;
• ball bearings No. 205 (other series with a shaft hole diameter of 25 mm are also suitable);
• a pair of 6/4″ clamps (used as bearing housings);
• two 3/4″ clamps that will serve as mounting points for the wind generator;
• additional clamp for installing the generator (in the example below, a product with a size of 3.5" is used);
• nine M4*35 size screws with M4 nuts;
• 32 M5 washers for installing covers;
• rubber tube with an internal diameter of 25 mm (segment 150-200 mm);
• bushing with an outer diameter of 25 mm and an internal hole of 9-10 mm;
• stepper motor with power up to 10 W;
• bicycle generator;
• lantern with dynamo;
• drill or screwdriver;
• hacksaw for metal;
• drills for making holes in metal pipe diameter 4 and 8 mm;
• screwdriver with Phillips and flat blade;
• wrench 7 mm.

To create from an electric motor

Necessary materials:

• generator from a car;
• working 12 V battery;
• an inverter with a power of at least 1 kW to convert direct current with a voltage of 12 Volts into alternating current 220 Volts;
• 200 liter barrel for making blades;
• 12 V light bulb for control;
• switch and voltmeter;
• copper wiring with wire cross-section from 2.5 mm²;
• a pipe with a diameter of about 45-50 mm for the axle;
• pipes with a diameter of 100 mm or more for building a mast;
• bearings;
• welding machine;
• cement mortar;
• guy cables with a diameter of 6 mm and anchors for fastening to the ground;
• fasteners (hardware, clamps, etc.).

Tools:

• roulette;
• pencil and metal scriber;
• set of wrenches;
• drill or screwdriver;
• container for mixing the solution;
• metal drills;
• grinder and several spare circles;
• metal scissors;
• files and sandpaper.

How to make a wind generator with your own hands

An example would be an axial generator with a stator without metal frame, using a hub and brake disc from a passenger car as a rotor:

1. Clean the hub and disc from corrosion products and brake pads.
2. Paint the outer surface with paint that protects the metal from further corrosion.
3. Check the condition of the bearings; the future rotor should rotate easily, without jamming or runout.
4. Install neodymium magnets symmetrically along work surface brake disc. For construction, it is recommended to use rectangular or square shape, since they provide a better distribution magnetic field. When installing magnets, you should alternate polarity and remember that for a single-phase generator, the number of magnets and stator coils must match. If you plan to assemble a three-phase unit, then the number of magnets and coils should correspond to a proportion of 2/3 or 4/3.
5. Fill the installed magnets with epoxy resin.
6. For full charge mode car battery a generator with such a rotor must develop at least 125 rpm. In this case, there will be about 1200 turns of wire in the stator winding. Based on this value and the number of magnets, you need to wind the coils yourself. For this it can be used auxiliary equipment, drawings and diagrams of which are distributed on the Internet. The width of the coils must correspond to the height of the magnets and not exceed it.
7. Place the coils on a template made of paper or plywood and fill the top with epoxy resin. Before pouring, phase limit switches are displayed from which the voltage will be removed.
8. Make a wind wheel using homemade or purchased blades.
9. Assemble the generator and install it on a mast 8-12 m high.

In addition to the design described, there are various types homemade installations, some of them will be discussed below. Most solutions are based on electric motors and generators and share common design features.

From the washing machine

An example of creating a generator from an engine washing machine shown in the video by user kim tools.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Reduce the diameter of the rotor according to the height of the magnets on the lathe.
2. Cut twelve grooves with a depth of 5 mm in the core.
3. Make from thin steel sheet circular pattern.
4. Place magnets in the slots. In this case, it is necessary to remember the alternation of polarity.
5. Assemble the resulting generator and conduct testing. Before starting the test, you will need to find two wires from the working winding that connect to the rectifier. The remaining leads are isolated and removed inside the stator.
6. Spin the generator shaft to 950-1000 rpm. In this mode, the output of the device should be at least 200 Volts.
7. After testing, the drive propeller is installed on the generator shaft and the entire structure is mounted on the mast.

From an asynchronous motor

The design of the device has few differences from a generator based on a washing machine motor and provides more power.

The first stage of creating the device will be converting the engine into a generator with a voltage of 220 V and finalizing the design:

1. Turn the motor rotor core on a lathe for subsequent installation of magnets. The goal is to reduce the diameter of the core by the height of the magnets and the adhesive layer. Sometimes you can install a special steel sleeve, which is pressed onto the treated rotor. Magnets are attached to the surface of the sleeve, which acts as a magnetic induction amplifier.
2. Mark the surface of the machined rotor or sleeve into four poles (the number of poles corresponds to the stator design), which should alternate. The magnets must be placed diagonally, parallel to the grooves. In the case of rewinding the stator and changing the number of poles, the installation scheme of neodymium magnets must also change. They are placed close to each other within one pole, and there is a gap between the poles. The entire structure must be symmetrical and balanced.
3. Install the rotor into the stator, check the gaps and the possibility of unhindered rotation. In case of surface contact, the core should be modified by additional grooving.
4. Secure the magnets with tape or epoxy resin. After the substance has hardened, re-check the gap between the rotor and stator.
5. Carry out a test run of the generator using a drill and a load, which is an incandescent lamp or other consumer of electricity.
6. After checking, a drive wheel is installed on the shaft (sail type in the photo above) and the generator is raised onto the mast.
7. The mast is installed on concrete base and is additionally fixed with cable braces.

One of the engine-based generator samples

From plastic bottles

A generator of this type can be assembled by yourself at home in a few hours.

In order to make a windmill, you need to follow the instructions step by step:

1. Cut two 500 mm pieces from the pipe, which will be used as the axis and base of the cantilever mount.
2. Cut two more pieces of 450-500 mm each for the cantilever axle supports.
3. Make a blank from a pipe with a length of 150 mm, which will serve as a support for the generator on the console.
4. Step back 100 mm from the ends of the shaft blank and mark the attachment points for 8 blades, which will be plastic bottles. The holes are drilled through with a 4 mm drill in a spiral with an offset to the left by 25 mm and through a height distance of 82 mm.
5. Make the second row of holes offset by 90 degrees relative to the first.
6. At a distance of 100 mm from the ends of the shaft, make two through holes for the bearing fixing pins.
7. Drill holes in the center of the plugs with a diameter of 4 mm.
8. Install the plugs in pairs using a screw, nut and two washers, which are placed on each cover. Tighten the plug nuts.
9. Cut an elliptical part from the side of the bottles (shown in the photo). It is recommended to make the cutouts the same size, using the first bottle as a template.
10. Screw a bottle blade into each cap, thus forming a vertical wheel.
11. Place 6/4″ clamps on the bearings, which are attached to the consoles.
12. Mount the base for the generator on the lower console. Select the attachment point experimentally.
13. Install the existing generator into the mounting clamp. The example shown uses a generator flashlight model SB-6020, equipped with a built-in rechargeable battery.
14. Connect the generator shaft to the wheel using a rubber hose or bushing.
15. Center the electric generator and secure the support to the console.
16. Install the generator in convenient location and check it in action.

The photographs show the main aspects of the construction of a low-power wind generator.

Shaft blank with bearings installed Approximate view bottle cutout Installing Blade Supports Generator installation Top view of a wind generator made from bottles Side view of a bottle wind generator

From a gas generator

At home, create a wind generator based on removed gasoline installation generator is not possible.

The difficulty is that a powerful generator is designed to operate at high speeds, which are difficult to achieve using a wind wheel. At low rotor speeds, the self-excitation circuit will not start working and there will be no voltage at the terminals.

From an electric motor

In addition to the designs described above, you can independently assemble a powerful installation from car generator. The circuit uses a 220 V voltage converter, which allows you to connect household appliances to the network.

To build a wind generator with your own hands you will need:

1. Mark and cut the barrel into four or more segments. The edges need to be processed with a file and sandpaper for removing burrs. It is recommended to coat the finished fan blades with paint, which will protect the metal from corrosion. When cutting, you don’t have to separate the sidewalls from the horizontal surfaces, but rotate them to the required angle.
2. Make an axle from a pipe. Its length should be 200-250 mm greater than the height of the barrel.
3. Install a cross-shaped guide for the blades on the upper edge of the pipe and secure it by welding.
4. Mount a symmetrical guide at a distance equal to the height of the blade.
5. Install the blades between the guides, providing for the possibility of adjusting the installation angle. The power of the assembled unit depends on the correctness of the chosen angle.
6. Assemble a mast from large-section pipes. The height of the mast is recommended to be at least 7 meters. If there are buildings within a radius of 30 meters, then the height should be increased by several meters. It should be remembered that as the height of the mast increases, the load on the frame increases. Ideally, the lower edge of the wind wheel should be 1 meter higher than adjacent buildings.
7. Fill the base of the mast with concrete and strengthen the structure with guy ropes.
8. Rewind the generator with a wire 0.55 mm thick. With this thickness, each winding contains 60-65 turns. Magnets are installed on the machined rotor.
9. Assemble the device and check its operation.
10. Install the generator on the mast and connect it to the vertical wheel.
11. Check the operation of the installation in various modes.

Wind generator maintenance and safety measures

When using a wind generator, the following maintenance and safety points should be considered:

1. The mast with the installed generator must be grounded. When using factory-made products, lightning damage may result in denial of warranty service.
2. When starting, it is prohibited to use the generator as an engine (for accelerated spin-up).
3. It is not recommended to operate the units in wind speeds exceeding 5 m/s. This is especially true for factory products.
4. Regularly (every 400 hours of operation) you need to add grease to the rotor bearings. After 1200 hours, it is recommended to wash the bearings with kerosene and fill them with new lubricant.
5. Carry out inspection and tightening contact groups and generator fasteners. If the commutator sparks, sand it with sandpaper.
6. Install battery at a distance of no more than 25 meters from the mast. The battery should be located in a container or room with a temperature of +5ºС. The battery room must be ventilated, as explosive gas is released during charging.
7. A switch panel must be used to disconnect devices.

Purchasing a factory generator is not always advisable. Sometimes it's easier to use available materials and tools to make it yourself. A device with a power of up to 1 kW will be enough to connect street lighting at the dacha or any other household appliances. You can build such a generator from an asynchronous motor.

Making an asynchronous generator with your own hands provides many advantages. This is a free source of electricity that can be used in for different purposes. Moreover, even a novice master can do such work.

Structurally diagram of the electric generator will consist of several key elements:

Operating principle of the device

The principle of operation of homemade generators alternating current at 220 V is no different from devices that are used for industrial purposes. Both convert kinetic energy into electrical energy.

In DIY designs, the force of the wind turns the windmill, which is mounted on a rotor. Thus, kinetic energy is transferred to the generator. It produces electricity. A converted asynchronous motor is often used as a generator.

The electricity generated by the generator is transferred to batteries. The latter must be equipped with a charge control module. Electricity from the batteries is supplied to the DC inverter. In this way, an alternating voltage can be created. It will be suitable for use for domestic purposes, that is, with parameters of 220 V and 50 Hz.

To convert AC voltage to DC, you need to install a special controller. It is thanks to him that the batteries are charged. Sometimes inverters can serve as an uninterruptible power supply. That is, in the absence of centralized electricity or interruptions in its operation, an asynchronous alternating current generator can be used for domestic purposes, powering various devices operating on 220 V.

Required materials and tools

To make a motor-generator with your own hands, it is enough to have an antisynchronous motor. The rest of the materials can be found on the farm or in specialized radio markets.

The following tools and materials may be needed:

First you need to decide on the desired final result. The characteristics of the electric motor that acts as a generator can be different, and this determines how much electricity the device will generate per unit of time.

To produce an average amount of energy the generator should have approximately the following characteristics:

1. The minimum installation power is 1.3 kW.
2. Neodymium magnets in the design are desirable. Their function is to provide electromagnetic driving force. For this purpose, a steel sleeve can be used, which is installed on the rotor.
3. The location of the magnets on the rotor must correspond to the diagram. This means that their poles must be turned in the correct direction.
4. The rotor shaft must first be ground and adjusted to the diameter of the magnets.
5. When installing magnets, it is not always necessary to redo the winding. If it consists of wires with a large cross-section, it’s okay, it will only increase the power. The best winding option would be a device with six poles, a wire with a cross-section of no more than 1.2 mm and a maximum of 24 turns on the coil.

Installation nuances

As a rule, to make a wind generator from an asynchronous motor with your own hands a windmill with three blades is used, which reach two meters in diameter. If you increase the number of blades or their length, the performance will not improve. Before choosing a device modification, type, characteristics, dimensions, it is necessary to carry out the correct calculation.

Each device must be connected to the mains in a certain order. First come the batteries, and then the wind generator. The electric motor shaft can rotate either horizontally or vertically. Typically installed in vertical position, it's connected with design features. To ensure protection from moisture, the generator is equipped with gaskets or a cap.

To install the mast, you must choose an open place where there will be maximum amount winds. The installation height of the generator device must be high enough. Converted asynchronous in ideal is installed at a height of 15 meters, but in practice no one uses masts over 7 meters.

As the main source electrical supply It is better not to use the device at home. Such a low-speed device should be installed to insure against situations with power outages or to save family budget, since the bill for centralized supply is significantly reduced.

It is worth noting that installations of this type cannot be used in all regions. The minimum wind speed for practical use should always be kept at around 7 meters per second. If this figure is less, then very little electricity will be generated.

Before installation, the necessary calculations are carried out. In some situations, difficulties may arise with processing asynchronous engine nodes. A windmill cannot be manufactured without the appropriate modules, as well as preliminary testing of the device. It is impossible to connect such equipment.

Of course, you can buy a factory-made asynchronous generator, but the option self-made much more economical and does not take much time. The process should not have any difficulties even for an inexperienced person.

To remake a brushed AC motor, you need to prepare some tools. The work must be done taking into account certain rules:

The generator can also be taken from other devices, for example, from a VAZ car. After this, you need to proceed to its installation on the mast. It should be remembered that if a rotor operating in squirrel-cage mode is used, the device will produce high voltage current.

To obtain 220 volts, the device should be equipped with a step-down transformer. The device does not need to be connected to the mains, since it operates using the self-powering method.

Thus, making a generator from an asynchronous motor is not challenging task even for a novice master. If we take into account all the capabilities of the device, we can conclude that in certain situations it will help with power outages, and if a very powerful wind generator is installed, it will be the main source of energy in the house.