Homemade table for a manual wood router. Making a table for a router with your own hands is real. Operations with a hand router

A person who loves to create and make things on his own will get great pleasure from creating a router table. This is a rather difficult, but exciting task. Making a table for a router yourself means getting a structure that costs much less than one made at the factory. When producing a milling table, it is imperative to follow safety precautions.

The milling table is designed for processing materials, cutting shaped holes, and making joints. A table made by yourself will be more economical and much more convenient than a purchased one.

Work in which it is necessary to perform milling is always associated with the movement of the tool along the surface of a rigidly fixed workpiece. However, when you need to mill a part with small dimensions, some difficulties arise. To solve this problem, you can make a table for the router yourself. In this case, the tool will have a stationary mount; the workpiece itself must move. As a result, it will be possible to quickly carry out end processing and remove overhangs.

Standard milling table

The simplest way to create a table for a router is to mount the router directly to the tabletop. Fastening occurs through a drilled hole. This setup has proven to work well. In this case, the router is located at an angle of 90° to the tabletop; it is rigidly fixed to the table, which dampens excessive vibration.

Such an installation is considered the best if the milling cutter has a solid base and if it has the ability to regulate the immersion of the tool. The base of the router must be fixed to the tabletop so that the router can be lowered to the required depth. This installation method has some disadvantages that need to be kept in mind.

Firstly, the thickness of the table top affects the working range of the tool; it allows you to work with cutters that have long shanks.

Secondly, the work is limited by the single diameter of the hole for attaching the cutter.

And lastly, if you have one router, its constant installation and removal, changing the cutter, adjusting the height is very inconvenient.

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Bed production

The bed is understood as the main part, without which not a single router table can do. To make it, a variety of materials are suitable. You can use metal profiles, MDF boards, wood, etc.

Perhaps the best option would be to use a metal profile. Existing butt joints are secured only with bolts during assembly. Welding work is excluded. The design will be highly reliable, it will be technologically advanced and easy to assemble.

The dimensions of the bed do not have fixed dimensions; they are selected by each craftsman purely individually. The main criterion will be the size of the parts that have to be processed. To accurately determine the dimensions of the bed, it is best to make a small sketch.

In order to make it convenient to work, the frame needs to be deepened into the floor by about 15 cm. The most important parameter of the table is its height. The optimal length would be 1 m. To get maximum convenience, it is worth equipping the table for the router with adjustable supports.

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Cover device

A kitchen countertop made of chipboard with a thickness of 40 mm is best suited for this part. This material perfectly dampens vibration, it has a hard, absolutely smooth surface on which the workpiece moves perfectly.

Modern phenolic plastic of high hardness is also suitable for the production of the lid. It has an absolutely flat surface and is not afraid of moisture. Plastic does not cause any difficulties in processing, which makes it possible to make grooves where aluminum profiles and stops will be installed. The only drawback is its high cost.

To make router tables more reliable for long-term use, you can make an aluminum tabletop. This material never corrodes and is lightweight. But before manufacturing, aluminum must be clad so that there are no dirty marks left on the workpieces.

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Plates for installing the router into the table

Router tables have the plates needed to mount directly into the table. This method has several advantages.

Due to the fact that the plate is no more than 10 mm thick, it is possible to easily get the router to replace the cutter.

You can use additional insert plates to make it possible to use different cutter diameters. Such an insert plate can become a support plate during the operation of milling surfaces on large parts. The plate gives the router increased stability; the use of plates helps to mill wide grooves of parts.

Inserting the plate is quite difficult. It is necessary to first drill a mounting hole in the table to obtain a tight fit for subsequent insertion of the plate. When there are large gaps, increased vibration occurs. If the plate does not have a reliable, tight attachment to the table, milling accuracy will not be maintained. Drilling a hole too large into the top of the router table you are making will cause it to weaken. Therefore, when calculating the diameter of the hole, care must be taken to create reinforcement for the tabletop. It is of great importance that the tabletop and insert are made flush. Additional gaskets, washers, etc. will help cope with this problem.

A milling table will make your work easier and help increase the accuracy of workpiece processing.

You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you quite detailed step-by-step instructions for making a table.

The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and implement it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, you will get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.

Decide on the size of the working surface, based on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop, incorporating modernization opportunities into the design. Work on it and little by little bring it to mind.

Make a table top

The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate, placed on carpentry trestles or between pedestals. The device costs pennies and can be manufactured in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood 19–25 mm thick. A plastic-coated panel that has less frictional resistance is better suited, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during use.

Set the exact right angle of cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to size and sand the ends.

Cutting diagram: 1 - main plate; 2 - support base; 3 - front wall of the stop; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness of the sheet material, which often differs from the standard. Amend the drawings to eliminate problems when assembling the structure.

Remove the plastic cover from the router base.

Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.

Place the pad so that later the main router controls are closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the cover with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling holes for the mounting screws.

Determine the center location for the sole with equally spaced screws.

For a base with asymmetrically placed screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.

Draw a mark with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:

• S = D / 2 - (D - H)

Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.

Mark the locations of the mounting screws.

Drill holes for mounting and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.

Cut out the bends with an electric jig saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly short of the marking line. Then move the file a little closer to the contour line - pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.

Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.

Glue all the pieces together and secure them with additional screws. Select screws that are longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the slab.

1 - side strip for fastening with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

Fasten the table to the trestles with clamps, secure the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.

Make a solid base

The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on a rack, and for work it is fixed on a workbench. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the tabletop and get a full-fledged machine.

Cut the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for the 820 mm high table, or change them so that the table top is level with other equipment.

Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 - internal panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base

Place the tabletop with the back side facing up. Install the side panels sequentially and screw them with screws, pre-drilling the guide holes. Secure the base, place the frame front side down, align the right corners and install the two back panels.

Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the housing using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads no closer than 20 mm from the edges.

1 - side stand; 2 - wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 - internal stand; 5 - rear panel

Use the free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.

Embed the mounting plate

Get a longer cutter reach by placing the tool on a 4–6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate.

Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from the sheet and place it on the workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. Using a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate, using the plastic trim as a template. Remove the sole, use a countersink or a large drill to make indentations for the caps.

Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and use a hole saw to make a hole at the mark.

Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Mark and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through the drilled hole. Straighten the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.

Secure thin boards around the marked outline with clamps.

Clamp the copy cutter with the bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer adjustment of the router and make the final pass.

Drill through holes for the screws and widen them from the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts with epoxy glue, aligning with the screws.

Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, place it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink from the front side. Attach the part to the router base, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the tabletop; if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.

Improve your focus

For faster and more convenient machine setup, upgrade the parallel side fence and add a rotary fence to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum T-profile guides into the surface of the slab. To make cutouts in the tabletop, use a router or circular saw with a mortise blade.

Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, and countersink them. Place the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten countersunk screws.

Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, select hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.

Install a guide profile in the front stop bar to secure clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.

Cut a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, secure it to the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter fitting and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the router table.

Add a safety shield made from plywood scraps and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.

To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangents and make cuts with a jigsaw.

Make homemade clamps and clamps necessary for milling small elements.

The comb clamp can be made from maple wood, choosing a section with a straight grain pattern. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular saw:

1. Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
2. Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
3. Make a cut.
4. Pull the workpiece back with a hand pusher.
5. Turn the board 180° and saw through the other side.
6. Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
7. Move the stop back again and make cuts throughout the entire workpiece.

Secure the clamps to the guide using bolts and wing nuts.

1 - stopper; 2 - comb clamp; 3 - protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - pipe for vacuum cleaner

Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially in areas where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat it with oil.

1 - drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop

Let's summarize the project

Materials needed:

1. Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
2. Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
3. Several dozen screws.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
6. Wood glue and epoxy.
7. M6 bolts with nuts.

The ability to take your time and think through each step, to accurately mark and cut out blanks, or the desire to learn this came in handy. The result is a high-quality milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.

A milling table will make your work easier and help increase the accuracy of workpiece processing. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared for you quite detailed step-by-step instructions for making a table.

The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and implement it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, you will get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.

Decide on the size of the working surface, based on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop, incorporating upgradeability into the design. Work on it and little by little bring it to mind.

Make a table top

The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate, placed on a carpentry trestle or between the pedestals. The device costs pennies and can be manufactured in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as a multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood with a thickness of 19-25 mm. A plastic-coated panel that has less frictional resistance is better suited, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during use.

Set the exact right angle of cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to size and sand the ends.

Cutting diagram: 1 - main plate; 2 — support base; 3 — front wall of the stop; 4 — gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 — drawer (2 pcs.); 6 — side bar; 7 — connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Advice. Before cutting, measure the thickness of the sheet material, which often differs from the standard. Amend the drawings to eliminate problems when assembling the structure.

Remove the plastic cover from the router base.

Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.

Place the pad so that later the main router controls are closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the cover with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling holes for the mounting screws.

Determine the center location for the sole with equally spaced screws.

For a base with asymmetrically placed screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.

Draw a mark with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:

• S = D / 2 - (D - H)

Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.

Mark the locations of the mounting screws.

Drill holes for mounting and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.

Cut out the bends with an electric jig saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly short of the marking line. Then move the file a little closer to the contour line - pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.

Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.

Glue all the pieces together and secure them with additional screws. Select screws that are longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the slab.

1 — side strip for fastening with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 — countersunk guide holes; 4 — front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

Fasten the table to the trestles with clamps, secure the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.

Make a solid base

The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on a rack, and for work it is fixed on a workbench. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the tabletop and get a full-fledged machine.

Cut the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for the 820 mm high table, or change them so that the table top is level with other equipment.

Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 — internal panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base

Place the tabletop with the back side facing up. Install the side panels sequentially and screw them with screws, pre-drilling the guide holes. Secure the base, place the frame front side down, align the right corners and install the two back panels.

Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the housing using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads no closer than 20 mm from the edges.

1 — side stand; 2 — wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 — internal stand; 5 - rear panel

Use the free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.

Embed the mounting plate

Get a longer cutter reach by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate.

Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from the sheet and place it on the workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. Using a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate, using the plastic trim as a template. Remove the sole, use a countersink or a large drill to make indentations for the caps.

Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and use a hole saw to make a hole at the mark.

Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Mark and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through the drilled hole. Straighten the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.

Secure thin boards around the marked outline with clamps.

Clamp the copy cutter with the bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer adjustment of the router and make the final pass.

Drill through holes for the screws and widen them from the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts with epoxy glue, aligning with the screws.

Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, place it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink from the front side. Attach the part to the router base, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the tabletop; if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.

Improve your focus

For faster and more convenient machine setup, upgrade the parallel side fence and add a rotary fence to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum T-profile guides into the surface of the slab. To make cutouts in the tabletop, use a router or circular saw with a mortise blade.

Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, and countersink them. Place the parts into the grooves, make thin holes and tighten countersunk screws.

Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, select hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.

Install a guide profile in the front stop bar to secure clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.

Cut a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, secure it to the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter fitting and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the router table.

Add a safety shield made from plywood scraps and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.

To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangents and make cuts with a jigsaw.

Make homemade clamps and clamps necessary for milling small elements.

The comb clamp can be made from maple wood, choosing a section with a straight grain pattern. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular saw:

1. Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
2. Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
3. Make a cut.
4. Pull the workpiece back with a hand pusher.
5. Turn the board 180° and saw through the other side.
6. Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
7. Move the stop back again and make cuts throughout the entire workpiece.

Secure the clamps to the guide using bolts and wing nuts.

1 - stopper; 2 — comb clamp; 3 — protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - pipe for vacuum cleaner

Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially in areas where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat it with oil.

1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop

Let's summarize the project

Materials needed:

1. Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
2. Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
3. Several dozen screws.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
6. Wood glue and epoxy.
7. M6 bolts with nuts.

The ability to take your time and think through each step, to accurately mark and cut out blanks, or the desire to learn this came in handy. The result is a high-quality milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth thinking about equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.

A milling machine is purchased for many carpentry jobs. But sometimes the scope of its application increases significantly, and there is a need to reconstruct the workplace. A do-it-yourself milling table for a manual router is an excellent opportunity to save money and create a high-quality work surface for yourself. Carpentry work is now in great demand, and this tool is quite useful in everyday life. And more comfortable working conditions will make him simply irreplaceable.

Milling table

An experienced carpenter can assemble a simple milling table with his own hands even without drawings, prepared dimensions and diagrams. There are many videos on the Internet on this topic and step-by-step explanations of the essence of the work. If you have decided to try yourself in this area for the first time, then do not despair; if you wish, you can make a table for a hand router in just one day. In addition, you will be completely confident in the strength of your product, and you will also be able to choose the ideal dimensions that are necessary specifically for your room. But, before making a circular milling table, you should understand what it is.

Milling table drawing

A homemade milling table is in no way distinguishable from a store-bought version if it is made in compliance with the basic rules and requirements. Milling machines move along the surface of the material being processed, thereby leveling it. If this type of processing is made stationary, then the master will spend much less time and effort on the work.

A DIY router table takes up a certain amount of space in the room. Therefore, before installation, decide what kind of table you want to see:

• aggregate;
• removable;
• stationary.

Aggregate Portable Stationary

Remember that most work can only be performed in a stationary mode. Also, consider how often you will use the machine, because for rare use a portable model is quite suitable, and for daily use - a stationary workstation.

What parts does a milling table consist of?

A homemade milling table can be made alone, without resorting to outside help. To do this, it is necessary to manufacture all the main parts of the structure for subsequent assembly. Without one of the parts, the milling table can become practically useless, since it will not perform its main duties. The DIY router consists of the following parts:

• countertops;
• beds;
• hem support;
• pressing combs;
• mounting plate.

The tabletop for a hand router should be thick, durable and even. Kitchen countertops are great for this, or, if you don’t have one, regular plywood. Just remember that a universal milling table requires a thickness of at least 16 mm, so the plywood sheets should be glued together with wood glue. Additional means can be used to make the surface smoother for more convenient work. You need to make a hole in the center to install the router.

Milling table drawings cannot do without a bed. It is responsible for the stability of the structure, absorbing all vibrations emanating from the instrument. For this you can use old bedside tables and tables, but provided that they are very durable. Some people choose metal models, which is quite practical.

Milling table from an old bedside table

The hem stop, fixed to the tabletop, is responsible for the correct supply of material. It can be made stationary, for permanent materials, or sliding, if the master will work with elements of different sizes. This is a very important element in the work, since the quality of the cutter will depend on the evenness of all sides.

Pressing combs on the table for a circular saw and a router are almost mandatory. They perfectly fix the material not only from the sides, but also from above. This comb can be installed at any height using fasteners. Its dimensions are set based on the personal wishes of the master and what he will encounter in his work.

Experts advise immediately installing sliding ridges and stops, then the functionality of the working machine will increase significantly.

Assembly Rules

Assembling a milling table with your own hands should be done in stages. First you need to decide on the tabletop and make a hole in it for the tool. Next, material supply control systems are attached.

In this case, it is necessary to accurately determine the places of their attachment down to the smallest detail, since the quality of further work depends on this.

The milling machine itself must be firmly secured under the tabletop. It should not dangle or hang; any movements can lead to injury during operation or equipment breakdown. It is better to fix it with self-tapping screws, for your own peace of mind.

The main thing in this method of work is to make the most convenient workplace for the master. And in this regard, the master himself works with all dimensions, knowing what he actually wants to get as a result.

Electronics at work

It’s quite easy to make a circular and milling table with your own hands, but don’t forget that this tool runs on electric current. Since the start and stop buttons will be located in an inconvenient place for the master, care must be taken to use them. You can make an exit and install buttons to start and stop the mechanism in a convenient place, but this requires knowledge in electronics.

There is an alternative option that is less safe for the router and circular saw. The start button is pressed, and it is in a constantly on state, stopping only by the cable when disconnected from the network.

A new milling table made by yourself must completely match the floor covering of the workplace. If the floors are uneven, you should make legs with a movable mechanism, otherwise the structure will quickly become unusable. In order for the service life of the router table to significantly exceed all expectations, its surface is coated with varnish or other woodworking liquid. This not only increases service life, but also additionally holds the elements together.

1 2 3

Protect yourself from damage that may occur during operation. Install protective glass on the longitudinal support, which will be a barrier to flying chips, sawdust and other elements.

When making a milling table at home with your own hands, remember that working with it is quite dangerous and you better take care of your safety.

Every person's workshop contains all the tools he needs. But at the same time, there may be an urgent need to arrange a workplace, and store prices may not suit you. And in general, not all people have the opportunity to visit stores with similar goods.

Milling table drawing

The milling table has drawings and diagrams, so making it yourself will not be difficult. Moreover, you yourself will know which model you need and what sizes will be convenient for you. The purchase option may not always be the way out. Don’t be afraid and waste time; even a beginner can figure out how to make a table.

Professional processing and production of wooden parts is only possible using a milling machine. This tool can be fully used in a special installation. This is what a milling table is. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. There is no point in spending a lot of money on purchasing this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table provides greater possibilities for processing parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
3. Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the working surface of the milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often needed to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be even along its entire length, positioned strictly perpendicular to the surface of the table, and be easily reconfigured for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. You can read more about making this design yourself.

Required tools and materials

1. Carpenter's glue.
2. Bolts with nuts.
3. Screws.
4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
5. Jigsaw.
6. Spanners.
7. Sandpaper.
8. Ruler.
9. Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. The easiest way to create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

• Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or may be defective.

• It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

• On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

• Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

• From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

• Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

• In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

• Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

• Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

• Now you need to make the table support structure. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

• Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
• Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - internal panel; 5 - rear pillar

• Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

• As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

• Drill holes at the place where the cutter is attached and widen them on the back side of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

• For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

• Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
• To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching an adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

• For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

• To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to make the cracks of the ridges with a circular saw on a machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

• Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in places where milling work will be carried out. Clean all wooden elements from dust and coat with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable to keep your hands close to the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks to relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.