Homemade tire changing machine. Making a homemade tire changing machine - design and assembly procedure. Why check tire pressure

04.03.2020

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How much trouble the operation of dismantling and installing tires on passenger car wheels causes for beginners (and not only) car enthusiasts! Bent rims, torn tire beads, tubes bitten by a mount, and even wounded fingers are frequent accompaniments of this work. Therefore, many car owners prefer to go to a car service center and entrust it to specialists, which has its well-known negative sides.

In addition, as someone subtly noted: tire punctures happen more often the further you are from a car service center. Taking into account all of the above, I set myself the task: to develop a simple and small-sized device that works in conjunction with a jack (available with any car) and facilitates the beading and beading of tires. Based on reviews from fellow car enthusiasts who had the chance to use this manufactured device, and based on personal experience, I can say that the problem was solved quite successfully.

The device consists of three parts (assembly units) having a very simple design. They can be made by a DIY car enthusiast with basic metalworking skills. The design and operating principle of the device are clear from photographs and drawings. The plank is a steel plate with dimensions of 140x36x4 mm. Three threaded (M8) pins are welded to it, perpendicular to its plane: one in the middle and two at the ends.

The outermost mounting pins are the same - simple threaded rods. The distance between them on the bar corresponds to the diameter of the circle along which the centers of the mounting holes of the car wheel disk are located (for Zhiguli - 100 mm). The central pin is stepped: at the bottom there is a collar-heel, above there is a thickened part, at the top there is a rod-axis with a thread at the end.

The collar serves for better stability, the thick part serves to support the rod at the height of the wheel rim, the rod-axle serves to fix one of the ends of the rod to the rod. Fastening the pins to the plate - in any available way: on a thread with lock nuts, riveting in square holes, etc., as long as the pins do not fly out or turn.

I have these parts inserted into round holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the plate and welded to it from below. In order to speed up the installation of the device on the wheel, appropriate wing nuts were selected for the pins (if there are none, then you can get by with ordinary ones). The rod is made of steel rod with a diameter of 16 mm. One end of it is sharpened to the profile of the mounting blade and well polished. Nearby, behind the profile surface and in its plane, a hole with a diameter of 9 mm was drilled in the rod.

The other end is bent in a heated state with a hook and here, not far from the end, the same hole is also drilled, only its axis is perpendicular to the axis of the hole at the other end of the rod. The cable is steel. Its diameter is selected so that it “doubly” easily passes through the lower hole in the heel support and in the longitudinal groove of the jack stand, into which it is inserted for work. The cable is tied into a ring.

When working, it is better to leave the place of the tie outside the “pulling” zone - throw it on a support (wheel wrench) or on the jack bracket. The tire removal device operates as follows. First, a strip is secured to the wheel rim using outer pins and wing nuts. Then the straight end of the rod is inserted under the bead of the tire (like a mounting paddle), and its curved end is put on the central pin of the bar and secured with a wing nut.

Next, a “balloon” wrench is inserted into one of the windows closest to the bar in the wheel disk (head up) and the lower outlet, the loop of the cable ring, is placed on it. Its other outlet, previously passed under the bar and into the heel hole, is placed on the jack bracket. After this, the jack is installed on the rod, and its handle rotates “ascending”, i.e. clockwise.

In this case, the cable is “selected” and moves the rod with the jack to the place where the lower loop of the cable is attached (to the head of the wheelbrace), and the straight end of the rod brings the tire bead to the wheel rim. Then the wheel key is moved to another window and the operation continues. When replacing a tire, its second bead is brought out in a similar way to the same side of the disk.

The force on the jack handle when performing this work is approximately the same as when lifting a car. To mount the tire on the wheel, the position of the rod changes. Now its curved end is inserted between the rim and the tire bead, and the straight end is attached to the central rod of the bar. The positions of the key, cable and jack remain the same as when removing the tire.

The device is designed for the jack of Zhiguli type cars, but by adjusting certain dimensions of the parts it can be made for other jacks of various brands of cars. The use of the device is especially effective when mounting and dismantling tires with hard sides.

But the most important thing is that not only the wheels and tires, but also the hands remain intact. The reliability of the device is ensured by the simplicity of its design. The weight of the device (without standard equipment) is a little more than half a kilogram; and it fits in a tool bag along with a set of tools.

Drawing of a homemade tire changing machine

Assembling a tire rack with your own hands is not the most difficult thing. But many car owners are wondering - why make such a kit in their garage, if you can go to the nearest service station, perform all the necessary operations there, and even by experienced craftsmen. We will talk about this and the features of tire assembly in our material.

There are many reasons to make a tire replacement kit for your wheels. Let us present several objective arguments.

Specialized service stations have constant queues for tire fitting. Especially during the season of transition to summer or winter tires. Many, without waiting in line, decide to use a handy tire mounting device in the form of a pry bar. But with the help of a pry bar you can only dismantle the tire with great difficulty. Putting a new one back is a huge problem. Having your own kit, you can quickly perform tire fitting work at any time.
You can make homemade tire fitting using available materials. This allows you to make a device without investment. The cost of service station services is impressive. Calculate how much money you will spend to change tires twice a year. Over the course of several years, a decent amount will accumulate, which can be spent on more useful things.
A loud sign for a tire shop is not a sign of quality services. If “tire fitting” is written near the service station, this does not mean that you will be provided with high-quality tire fitting services. Some people can use a pry bar to do a better job than a supposedly experienced mechanic from a car service center.

Stages of tire fitting

It may seem to novice motorists that changing wheels on a car is a matter of just a few minutes. It's worth removing old or summer (winter) tires and then putting other tires in their place.

In practice, everything looks much more complicated.

You can also remove the rubber using a pry bar. But one mount will not solve all tire fitting problems;
The most difficult stage is installing new tires on the rim;
To install the rubber you will need to make an impressive physical effort;
Using force from the pry bar can damage the wheel. As a result, you will have to buy a new one. And these are impressive financial losses for operating the car;
A set of tools for unscheduled road tire fitting can partially help out. This kit includes mounts of different shapes and special wedges;
A set of tools makes the tire fitting process a little easier, but you shouldn’t rely on it as a permanent way to change tires yourself. There is still a high risk of accidental deformation of the tire if the mount suddenly slips or the wedges break.

Based on the above, we can confidently say that a homemade tire mounting kit is one of the best solutions that you can make with your own hands and use for a long time. You will have time to change more than one car, and this fairly simple machine will continue to serve you faithfully. The main thing is to do it efficiently, conscientiously.

Manual tire fitting design

If you decide to make a manual tire fitting, you will need to study the drawings, look at photos of diagrams, and video assembly instructions.

Homemade tire changing machines for manually changing tires on a car are presented in the form of a design that consists of several basic elements.

The base or frame of a tire changing machine. The most common solution is a frame, which consists of a pair of profile rectangular pipes. They are located parallel to each other. Steel corners are used to connect them.
Vertical riser. It is mounted on the frame and is used to perform several functions simultaneously - attaching a lever for removing a tire and a platform for installing a disk.
Tire changer pipe. It is welded to the handle. With its help, the equipment receives the leverage necessary for efficient and easy removal of the wheel being removed.

When planning to manufacture tire fitting equipment, use only high-quality rolled steel for assembly. This is due to the increased loads that the metal will take on during dismantling and tire fitting work.

Assembling a tire changer

To assemble the machine, you will need a secure base. The frame will perform exactly this role. To make the frame, use high-quality profile pipes;
Make the distance between the two frame pipes about 70 cm. This is the minimum value and affects the stability of the structure;
Connect two parallel metal pipes with high-strength steel angles. An alternative solution is a profile pipe, but with a smaller cross-section;
If desired or necessary, you can add adjustable legs to the frame;
Weld the pipe to the resulting frame. Its diameter is 20-30 millimeters. Before welding, do not forget to weld the flange, which will be located at a height of 400-600 millimeters;
Fastening elements are installed on the vertical axis of the structure. This is a metal plate designed to mount the lever;
The lever will make tire removal easier. It consists of two elements - a shoulder and a paw. Due to the paw, a direct impact is exerted on the tire being dismantled.

Having disconnected the rubber from the disk, you begin full dismantling work. Use a pry bar to make your tire mounting task easier. The mount will need to be long and with a welded handle. Making such a tool is not difficult.
After installing the disk on the flange of your homemade tire changing machine, use a clamp to secure the wheel.
With the narrow end of the pry bar turned, position the edge of the tire beyond the outer rim of the rim.
Turn the disc over and complete the dismantling step of replacing the rubber.
Try to protect the edges of the rim from deformation. If the edges become deformed, installing new rubber back will be problematic.
To maintain the integrity of the wheel during dismantling, be sure to lubricate the edges with regular grease. Such simple tire fitting measures can significantly reduce the likelihood of tears forming in the rubber of your wheels.
When performing tire fitting work to install new rubber, use a soap solution. With its help, the rubber will fit onto the disc more easily, so you will have to put in significantly less physical effort.
Carefully ensure that there is no gap between the rubber and the disk when installing the tire on the disk during tire fitting.
Use special tire mounting tool kits. This includes various mounts and sealing harnesses. They simplify tire fitting operations.

Tire fitting is a necessary activity for every car. But it’s up to you to decide whether to pay a lot of money for tire fitting twice a year, or assemble your own machine. With it, you, your friends and acquaintances can perform tire fitting. Or you can earn a little extra money by competing with tire service centers.

Finding a tire repair shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the site of a puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On some business trip or travel. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How This do?

In the old days, drivers caught by surprise used tried-and-true remedies. They were as follows:

The big disadvantages of the method were its labor intensity and the almost inevitable cases of the disk being crushed at the edges.

For tubeless tires such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disc will have to be straightened or thrown away. In such a situation, the cash costs for a new disk are inevitable.

In a standard tire service, virtually the same operations are performed. The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, and more careful in relation to the disk. As a result, after repair it exactly retains its previous geometry. But How achieve this himself?

What modern craftsmen offer

If you look on the Internet, you can see many options. homemade mechanized devices for wheel beading. The overwhelming majority of them are fundamentally focused on professional equipment in terms of capabilities. The features relate mainly only to some design solutions.

Homemade machines perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. At the same time they:

simpler in design;
have a manual drive for dismantling;
reliable in operation;
small-sized;
easy to disassemble and convenient to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
allow for prompt repairs outside a tire shop, directly at the accident site;
The vast majority of all handicraft devices are designed for passenger car wheels.

It goes without saying that wheel removal for owners of such machines is incomparably more economical than a similar service in a car service center.

A few illustrative examples

Vertical console with bracket on the table.

Device:

an improvised table with a vertical stand (on top there is a threaded thread);
locking washer for fixing the disk with internal thread and bushing-axis;
movable console with bracket;
a metal rod with blades that bend the tire bead away from the disc;
rod fixing bolt.

Design models:

Non-adjustable paddle

Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod; the blade has to be constantly hammered with a sledgehammer).

Vertical console with bracket

Adjustable paddle

Modern design. The console and bracket with spatula were purchased at an auto parts store. The disadvantages include the short handle, which does not provide effective pressure on the tire.

Vertical console with bracket without table

The auxiliary tool, console and bracket are presented here in a factory-made version. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is that the dismantling process is cumbersome, requiring the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be performed, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.

There are many other options. There is no point in considering all inventions: they are designed approximately the same.

Let's look at one model. It eliminates as much as possible all the above-mentioned shortcomings. It is quite simple to manufacture the entire machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.

DIY tire changing machine

Drawings with dimensions- the first thing where any practical activity begins. In this case, we will consider a very convenient version of the machine, which combines the entire range of tire fitting tasks.

This is a schematic diagram of the structure and functioning of the beading mechanism:

In its natural form (after fairly simple assembly) the machine will look like this:

How to assemble this machine and from what?

Design elements:

Frame

It is made of a rectangular steel profile measuring 50x25 mm. It needs to be cut into five pieces and welded into one stable base. The length of the run-up of the parallel stops and the profile pipe connecting them can be adjusted to the dimensions of the trunk of the car.

Vertical stand

Made from a metal pipe with a diameter of no more than 50 mm (according to the width of the frame components). Attaching to the base can be done using two methods:

Welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable version).

Fixed with a bolt. In this case, a sleeve corresponding to the internal diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and threaded for the bolt. This option makes the structure collapsible, smaller in size and mobile (suitable for use on the road).

Vertical stand attachments

Washer-platform (flange) with holes for mounting the disk. It is intended for installation, external inspection of the damaged wheel and its final dismantling after dismantling.

Steel corner

With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching a loop under the lever. It is tightly welded to the rack; the hinge itself can be fastened with screws through drilled holes with threads (as in the diagram above). But the welding method of connecting parts is more reliable and simpler.

Lever arm

Designed for removing a tire rim from a disk.

The diagram shows the loop principle of connecting the lever to the riser . He gives the ability to apply effective pressure on the tire and tear its edge off the rim.

The dimensions shown in the drawing are indicative only. The main thing is that the general proportion is maintained.

Element A

Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. The extension cord is removable. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides greater pressing power.

Element B

Tire rim support (foot). It is made from the same rectangular profile 50x25 mm as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the second is flattened and sanded to a rounded shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressing with your paw.

Note

When choosing a material for a machine, one should take into account the large loads on all structural elements. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.

To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted with a persistent oil emulsion.

How to remove a wheel

Manual the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:

Visual inspection. The wheel is installed on the washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and rim.

Beading:

— the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;

— an extension cord is inserted into the lever;

— the paw is directed to the joint of the tire with the disk;

- the lever is pressed.

The operation is carried out sequentially along the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the rim.

Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.

Complete dismantling is carried out already on the flange of the vertical stand using a simple mount. It is better if it is long enough to easily remove the tire from the rim.

Wheel mounting

What is important to consider at this stage:

Disk integrity

The geometry of the rim should not be violated in any place. This is especially important for tubeless tires. Small dents on stamped discs can be straightened with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disk must be replaced. Damaged cast wheels cannot be straightened due to the fragility of the metal and are always replaced.

Tire lubrication

It reduces friction between rubber and metal during installation. A thin layer of lithol or soap solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not in any way affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.

No gaps between the disk and tire

Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This installation defect can be easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer when inflating the wheel on a machine. As a last resort, you can use special sealing bands and gels (they are sold in all automotive stores).

Conclusion

From all of the above, a simple conclusion suggests itself: a tire changing machine is easy to make yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off - no more, will be needed to purchase materials and manufacture equipment. This requires only skillful hands and desire.

The reward for your hard work will be time and money. This way you will definitely save them!

Video

Every car enthusiast can make his own tire changing machine. All you need is desire and patience. This article will help you build your own machine and teach you some tricks.

Making such a tire changing machine is not that difficult. Unlike other homemade models, this machine is mobile. It's on wheels. After work, you can always move it to a corner. This way it won’t take up extra space.

The design is quite simple. The base is T-shaped, made of two channels 100 mm wide. The length of one channel is 590 mm, and the second 800 mm. They are welded perpendicular to each other.

On top, a pipe with a diameter of 55 mm is welded to the longer channel. The length of the pipe is selected specifically for your height. To make it more convenient for you to work with the machine. In this case, a pipe 800 mm long is used. Its thickness should not be less than 3 mm, otherwise the pipe will bend. It is also recommended to weld several corners at the base. This will strengthen the structure.

A movable foot is put on top of the pipe. It moves due to a pipe of larger diameter. Its length is 120 mm. A small channel is welded to this pipe. The main thing is to first carve a recess on it so that it fits around the pipe. Instead of a channel, you can use corners welded together.

A heel is welded to the end of the foot. The heel can be made from a piece of an old disc. In this case, the disk is from a Zhiguli. It is important to weld it in the correct location. The heel should protrude from below, that is, it must be welded slightly lower and at an angle. You can weld another small piece of metal on the heel itself, so that it protrudes even lower. This “tooth” will help when working with old, stuck tires.

After putting on the foot, a part of the profile pipe is welded to the stand. Its wall should not be less than 3 mm. The distance from the welded profile pipe to the lowered foot is 450 mm.
The movable foot and the protrusion from the profiled pipe together represent a mechanism for squeezing the tire.

This concludes our consideration of the lower part of the tire changing machine. Now let's move on to the top part.

The upper part is the bed. It is used to trim the wheels. The bed can be made from the same disk from which the heel was cut. Part of the disk is then welded to a pipe of smaller diameter than the stand. Welding is done from below so that the seam does not interfere. The pipe should be selected so that it does not dangle inside. And for fixation, you can drill holes in the stand and frame pipe, and use bolts as clamps.

For versatility, recesses can be cut into the disk for wheels of larger diameter and gazelle wheels.

The top of the frame is rotatable and removable. It is inserted according to the pipe-in-pipe principle. This device serves as a guide when boarding.

Now let's look at homemade tools that will help you easily carry out wheel beading work. Let's look at the disassembly tool first.

The handle of this tool is made from a profile pipe or assembled from corners. The tool is tapered towards the end, and at the very tip there is a bearing.
The second tool is for assembling wheels.

The handle for it can also be made from a pipe or corners. Particular attention should be paid to the tip. The tip is made of several parts. The first part is the tongue, made of cemented tool steel.

A second part in the form of a pipe cut is welded to it on the reverse side. Welding must not be done along the entire circumference; the right and upper parts must be free of seams. Otherwise, the tool will tear the rubber. It should also be fixed exactly in the position as shown in the photo.

The review of the machine is over, all that remains is to tell you how it works.

The wheel is placed on the machine and adjusted to the leg. Then a jack is placed on the lowered leg. With its help, pressing the tire from the wheel is easy. Once you have completely pressed the tire away from the rim, you can begin beading.

The wheel is installed on the frame and twisted so that it does not spin. Then, having previously lubricated the tire, the edge is pryed off with a pry bar or a small crowbar.

A beading tool is inserted into the resulting gap and, using a guide, we move it around the circumference of the disk.

The wheel assembly is as follows.

The tire must be generously lubricated. The tongue of the assembly tool must be inserted into the gap between the wheel and the tire. Then, using the lever, move the tool around the circle, while using your other hand to help the tire cling to the side of the rim. If necessary, the tool can be raised.

Having reached the end, the wheel will be ready.

Video: do-it-yourself tire changing machine - part one.

Video: second part.

A tire changing machine is the main equipment for servicing vehicles, including trucks. Usually it is installed only in specialized workshops, where it is used under the strict guidance of staff. Its most common models are Trommelberg 1850, Trommelberg 1860 + third hand, as well as others.

But it often happens that car wheels need to be replaced, but there is no opportunity to go to a service center and spend your time there to get the required service. There is a way out of the situation. This is a homemade tire changing machine that you can assemble and install in your garage yourself. Of course, it will be inferior to Trommelberg models and is unlikely to allow you to balance the anchors, but its functionality will please you. Let's take a step-by-step look at how you can make such a tool for car maintenance.

1 What do you need to assemble a tire changing machine at home?

A homemade manual tire changing machine no worse than the 1850 model, which can also include a third hand, is not so difficult to assemble at home in practice. To create high-quality equipment you You will need the following types of devices:

Frame. Usually it is made from standard profiles. Please note that you need to select parts for it based on the type of cars that you are going to repair, because for passenger and cargo versions it will vary in resistance to loads.
The third “hand” or lever. This third part will be used directly to remove the tire.
A vertical riser on which, in particular, the third arm will be attached. Can be made in the form of a welded flange.

To create all these parts, it is necessary to initially purchase very high-quality rolled products that will withstand heavy loads, in particular, the weight of truck parts. In order for your work in this direction to proceed as quickly and successfully as possible, it is recommended to prepare a drawing for this design in advance and order rentals based on them.

1.1 We create equipment with our own hands

So, we already have everything to make a machine for servicing the wheels of cars, including trucks, we just need to assemble it correctly. You need to do this as follows:

We make the base of our machine from profile pipes. The distance between them must be at least 70 cm, otherwise the sample will be unstable and it will be impossible to service not only trucks, but even cars;
Next, we attach the flange vertically to the crossbar. We must weld this element, otherwise it simply will not stick to us. Next, we install a clamp on it, to which the “hand” will be attached;
we mount the arm itself. It must be installed on a metal element, otherwise it simply will not hold.

Calibration of a homemade balancing machine is carried out using the wheel you have, even if it is from a truck. It usually only takes a few minutes. Immediately after completing such work, you can begin to operate the equipment you made yourself.

1.2 Design advantages

A do-it-yourself loom for servicing car wheels, just like a homemade loom, has a lot of advantages.

Among them:

low cost of production of the structure. Spare parts for tire changing machines are usually inexpensive, and in some situations they can even be made from recycled materials;
the ability to carry out work as soon as necessary at home;
versatility - if desired, it can be adapted to any type of wheels, including elements of trucks. It is very important to note that the correct use of such a sample prevents damage to the wheels;
compactness – you can store this equipment for car maintenance in any place convenient for you;
ease of assembly - a few simple parts and clearly followed instructions will help you create this technical miracle in just a few hours;
significant savings in vehicle maintenance. After all, even for cargo models, complex wheel repairs are extremely rarely necessary. It is enough to use such a technique, and no problems will arise with them.

If we talk about the disadvantages of this design, then they include the impossibility of balancing wheels, as well as processing elements of trucks, as in the 1850 model. Repair of driveshafts and balancing of anchors are also not available here. For this procedure, you really need to contact specialized workshops where more complex equipment is installed, for example, Trommelberg models.

2 An alternative to a machine created independently

If you can’t make a wheel maintenance machine with your own hands, you can pay attention to the most affordable models of such equipment on sale. They allow you to perform balancing of anchors and other manipulations. Among them:

Trommelberg 1850 is one of the best versions of machines that allow you to remove problems with cardan shafts, as well as work with passenger car wheels. Semi-automatic Does not require extensive operator experience in working with such equipment. Extremely easy to set up and further use, trommelberg 1850 can be installed both in workshops that service driveshafts, balance anchors and other car parts, and at home. Little is used for balancing anchors.
Trommelberg 1860, which comes with a third hand. The most functional type of equipment, addressed primarily to professional workshops that repair cardan shafts, where a third hand is an important element. Can also be used at home if you have to regularly service your wheels. In other cases, the trommelberg plus a third hand pattern may be too difficult for you. Can be used not only for cars, but also for trucks. It can also be used for balancing anchors, but is rarely used for such purposes.
Protektor U-201 is an example of high-tech equipment for wheel maintenance. Designed specifically for workshops that carry out repairs of cardan elements, balancing of anchors, as well as other manipulations. Works with a wide range of wheels. Their diameter can be 12-24". Thanks to a lighter design than in the 12-24", 1850 model, it can be used for small workshops, as well as for home use. The instructions will help you understand this high-tech option.

Of course, in many cases, professional machines, the same equipment trommelberg 1850, model 1860 plus a third hand, are much more precise in their work and, to be honest, more functional due to the assembly, because they will even make it possible to balance anchors. However, they are often too expensive for the consumer. That is why, before purchasing them, it is worth considering the possibility of assembling the equipment yourself, especially since it is not so complicated.