Homemade soldering iron for polyethylene pipes. Soldering polypropylene pipes with your own hands. Industrial designs with paired nozzles

Any modern housing, be it a private mansion or city ​​apartment, must be equipped with a variety of engineering communications. And if so, then either during the construction process, or during repairs or reconstruction, sooner or later the owners will have to face the problem of installing or replacing pipes and a heating system. Few people are now seduced by the labor-intensive and rather complex installation of steel VGP pipes. They are expensive in themselves, require considerable additional costs for transportation, and their processing and connection are associated with specific operations that not everyone can do - cutting, bending, electric or gas welding, thread cutting, etc. Plus, to the “packing” of everyone threaded connection A special approach is required to ensure that the connecting assembly is of high quality and without leaks.

It's good that modern technologies allow you to avoid all this hassle by using polypropylene pipes. At making the right choice materials and high-quality installation, plumbing and heating circuits are practically in no way inferior to steel ones, and in many respects they are far superior to them. In addition, the soldering itself is not so complicated. propylene pipes instructions for implementation of which will be discussed in this publication.

Not all polypropylene pipes are the same

Before you start considering the installation instructions for polypropylene pipes, it makes sense to give at least general concept about this material, in particular about its varieties and areas of application. Choosing pipes based on the principles of “which ones are cheaper” or “which ones were available” is completely unacceptable. The consequences for an unscrupulous home craftsman can be very sad - from deformation of the laid pipeline to its rupture or the appearance of leaks in connecting nodes.

There is no need to explain the difference in diameter - in different systems and in their various sections their sizes are used, which are predetermined hydraulic calculations. The range of diameters, from 16 to 110 mm, allows you to almost completely provide all possible options. Moreover, practice shows that for a house or apartment, an assortment of up to 40 mm is usually sufficient, much less often – up to 50 ÷ 63 mm. Larger diameter pipes are, rather, main pipes, and they have specific installation features, but face it home handyman- it’s unlikely that you’ll have to.

The difference in color between some types of pipes may immediately be apparent. This is what you should pay least attention to - white, green, grayish and other walls - they don’t say anything. Apparently, this is simply a decision by manufacturers to somehow distinguish their products from the general background. By the way, for heating circuits White color will definitely be preferable, since the pipeline will unobtrusively fit into any interior without creating a disharmonious color “spot”.

But colored stripes, if they exist, already carry an informative load that is intuitively understandable to everyone. The blue stripe means the pipe is designed exclusively for cold water supply, the red stripe means it can withstand elevated temperatures. However, such color marking (which, by the way, very often does not exist at all) is only very approximate and does not fully reveal the operational capabilities of a particular pipe. It helps you simply not to make mistakes during the installation of the system. By the way, the longitudinal line is also good because it becomes good reference when joining mating parts during soldering.

Much more information gives alphanumeric markings, which are usually printed on the outer wall. This is where it’s worth being more careful.

The international abbreviation for polypropylene is PPR. There are several types of material, and you can find the designations PPRC, PP-N, PP-B, PP-3 and others. But in order not to completely confuse the consumer, there is a clearer gradation of pipes - by type, depending on the permissible pressure of the pumped liquid and its temperature. There are four such types in total: PN-10, PN-16, PN-20, PN-25. In order not to talk at length about each of them, you can give a plate that characterizes the operational capabilities and scope of application of the pipes.

polypropylene pipes

Of course, in order for a pipe to withstand elevated pressures and temperatures, it must have thicker walls. The value of the wall thickness and, accordingly, the nominal diameter of polypropylene pipes various types– in the table below:

With all the advantages of polypropylene, it also has a rather significant drawback - very significant linear expansion when heated. If for cold pipelines located inside the building this is not so significant, then for hot water supply pipes or heating circuits this feature can lead to sagging, sagging of long sections, deformation of complex junctions, and the appearance of internal stresses in the pipe body, shortening its service life.

To minimize the effect of thermal expansion, pipe reinforcement is used. It can be aluminum or fiberglass.

The fiberglass reinforcing belt is always located approximately in the center of the pipe wall thickness, and does not in any way affect the soldering technology.

But with aluminum it’s a little more complicated. There are two types of such reinforcement. In one case, the foil layer is located in close proximity to the outer wall of the pipe (in the illustration - bottom left). Another option is that the reinforcing belt runs approximately in the center of the wall. For each type of such reinforcement, there are special technological installation nuances, which will be discussed below.

Both fiberglass and aluminum reinforcement significantly reduce the thermal linear expansion of polypropylene pipes. In addition, the aluminum layer performs another function: it becomes a barrier against oxygen diffusion - the penetration of oxygen molecules from the air through the walls of the pipe into the coolant.

Penetration of oxygen into liquid medium coolant can cause a number of negative consequences, among which the main ones are increased gas formation and activation of corrosion processes, which is especially dangerous for metal parts of boiler equipment. The reinforcing layer can greatly reduce this effect, which is why such pipes are most often used specifically for heating circuits. IN water supply systems It is quite possible to get by with fiberglass reinforcement, which does not have a significant effect on diffusion.

The illustration below shows an example of marking a polypropylene pipe:

1 – in the first place is usually the name of the manufacturer, the name of the pipe model or its article number.

2 – material of manufacture and structure of the pipe. In this case, it is single-layer polypropylene. Pipes with fiberglass reinforcement are usually marked PPR-FG-PPR, with aluminum – PPR-AL-PPR.

Reinforced pipes with an outer polypropylene layer and inner wall made of cross-linked polyethylene. They will have a designation such as PPR-AL-PEX or PPR-AL-PERT. This does not affect the soldering technology, since inner layer does not take part in it.

3 – standard pipe dimensional coefficient, equal to the ratio of the outer diameter to the wall thickness.

4 – nominal values ​​of outer diameter and wall thickness.

5 – the type of pipe mentioned above according to the nominal operating pressure.

6 – list of international standards to which the product complies.

Pipes are usually sold in standard lengths of 4 or 2 meters. Most retail outlets practice selling with cuts in multiples of 1 meter.

Numerous components are available for sale for all pipes - threaded fittings, for switching to another type of pipe, from external or internal thread or with an American union nut, couplings, tees, diameter transitions, floor bends at 90 and 45 degrees, plugs, bypass loops, compensators and others necessary details. In addition, it is possible to purchase taps, valves, manifolds, and “oblique” filters rough cleaning water intended for direct soldering into polypropylene pipework.

In short, such diversity allows you to choose the most convenient diagram assembling a system of almost any degree of complexity. The cost of most of these parts is very low, which allows you to purchase them with a certain reserve, at least so that before starting practical installation conduct a short training session - “get your teeth in”, so to speak.

Methods for connecting polypropylene pipes

Polypropylene is a thermoplastic polymer - when heated, its structure begins to soften, and when two fragments uniformly heated to a certain temperature are connected, mutual diffusion occurs, or rather, even polyfusion, that is, interpenetration of the material. When cooling, the properties of polypropylene do not change, and with a high-quality connection - ensuring optimal heating and the required degree of compression, after reverse polymerization there should be no boundary as such - a completely monolithic assembly is obtained.

It is on this property that the main technological methods for joining polypropylene pipes are based - this method is often called polyfusion welding.

Such welding (soldering) can be carried out using a socket or butt method.

• Sleeve welding is precisely the technology that is most often used when installing water pipes or heating circuits in a house or apartment. It is designed for small and medium diameter pipes, up to 63 mm.

Its meaning is that any connecting unit involves the use of two parts - this is the pipe itself and the coupling, the internal diameter of which is slightly smaller than outside diameter pipes. That is, in a normal, “cold” form, the parts cannot be paired. A coupling can be not only, pardon the tautology, the coupling itself, but also the installation section of a tee, bend, tap, threaded fitting and other components.

The principle of such welding is shown in the diagrams below.

The pipe (item 1) and the coupling or any other connecting element (item 2) are simultaneously placed on the heating elements of the welding machine.

A pair is pre-installed coaxially on the working heater itself required diameter, consisting of a metal coupling (item 4), into which the pipe will be inserted, and a mandrel (item 5), onto which the necessary connecting element is placed.

During the warm-up period outer surface pipe and the inner coupling, a belt of molten polypropylene is formed, approximately the same width and depth (item 6). It is important to choose the right heating time so that the melting process does not penetrate the entire pipe wall.

Both parts are simultaneously removed from the heater and coaxially, with force, connected to each other. The melted plastic outer layer of polypropylene will allow the pipe to fit tightly into the coupling until it stops, the length of the heated section.

At this stage, the process of polyfusion, cooling and polymerization occurs. In the end it turns out reliable connection, which, although shown in the diagram as a shaded area (item 7), but in reality, if you look at the section, it is not visible at all - it is practically a monolithic wall.

• Butt welding is performed slightly differently.

One of the main differences is that the parts that are joined must be the same in inner and outer diameter.

The first step is to fine-tune the ends to ensure they fit perfectly together.

The pipes are pressed on both sides against a trimmer - a rotating disk (pos. 2) with precisely aligned knives (pos. 3)

The pipes are again pressed towards the center, and at the ends, over the entire wall thickness, areas of polypropylene melting are formed (item 5).

And, by analogy with the previous case, as the weld cools, it polymerizes, creating a reliable connection between the two pipes.

The principle seems simple, but this is only at first glance. With this welding technology, precise alignment of the mating parts is of decisive importance. In addition, during sleeve welding, the required degree of compression of the mating molten sections is ensured to a greater extent by the difference in the diameters of the parts. In this case, a significant external force is required, directed strictly along the axis of the connected pipes. All these conditions can only be met when using a special, rather complex machine-type apparatus.

There are many machines for butt welding, but almost all of them have a powerful frame with guides and clamps for clamping pipes of various diameters - to ensure joint alignment, a removable or folding end cap and heater, a mechanism for creating the required compression - manual, hydraulic, electric, etc. .P.

This technology is used, as a rule, only by professionals when laying main pipes, and the likelihood of encountering it in household level– practically zero.

There is also a “cold” welding method - using glue based on a strong organic solvent. The point is that when treated with this composition, the surface layers of the polymer soften. The parts can be connected at this time in the right position, and since solvents are usually highly volatile, they evaporate quickly. then the reverse polymerization process begins quite quickly.

This technology is more suitable for polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes that do not have proper thermoplasticity. In addition, this type of connection method has, perhaps, more disadvantages and limitations in use than advantages, so it is not in particular demand, especially since there is a simple and accessible technology for sleeve polyfusion welding.

What is required for installation work

So, in the future we will consider exclusively socket polyfusion welding (soldering). To cope with this task yourself, you need to prepare a number of tools and accessories.

• First of all, this is, of course, a machine for welding polypropylene pipes. Such a tool is not so expensive, and many zealous owners already have it in their home “arsenal”.

The welding machine must be supplied with coupling-mandrel kits of the required diameters. Most devices allow you to simultaneously place two, and sometimes three pairs of working nozzles on their heating element, which allows you to install a system that uses pipes of different diameters without interruptions for replacement.

If you don’t have your own device, and circumstances currently do not allow you to purchase one, then many stores practice short-term rental with a daily fee - you can take advantage of this opportunity.

If you decide to buy a machine for welding polypropylene pipes...

All welding machines are designed approximately the same and operate on a similar principle, but they also have certain differences in layout and functionality. Helpful information for those who have decided to make such a purchase, it is posted in an article on our portal, specifically dedicated.

In the text you may find the definition of a pipe soldering machine - but this is just a “play on words”. There is no difference between these concepts in this case.

• To cut the pipe, special scissors are required. Moreover, they must be sharpened, with a working ratchet mechanism that ensures a smooth cut. The blade should not be jagged or bent.

Of course, you can cut the pipe with a hacksaw, just a metal blade, or even a grinder, but this is absolutely not professional approach, since the required accuracy and evenness of the cut cannot be achieved with such tools.

machine for welding polypropylene pipes

• It is necessary to prepare a marking tool - a tape measure, a ruler, a construction square, a marker or a pencil. To correctly place the pipes, you have to resort to a level.
• If you plan to solder polypropylene pipes with aluminum reinforcement, then additional tools are required.

- if the pipe has external reinforcement, then a shaver will be required to clean the aluminum layer at the weld penetration site.

- if the aluminum reinforced layer is located deep in the thickness of the wall, then the pipe still requires preliminary preparation, but in this case a trimmer is already used.

A trimmer is often similar in appearance to a shaver, but there is a difference between them - it lies in the arrangement of the knives. With a shaver, the cut goes tangentially parallel to the axis of the pipe, and with a trimmer, as even their names make clear, the knife processes the end and removes a small chamfer.

Read a useful article, and also familiarize yourself with the varieties and selection criteria on our portal.

We will dwell on this point in more detail when considering pipe soldering technology.

• Many people overlook this, but the welded sections of pipes and couplings must be cleaned of dirt, dust, moisture, and then degreased. This means you need to prepare a clean rag and an alcohol-containing solvent (for example, regular ethyl or isopropyl alcohol).

But use acetone-based solvents, esters, hydrocarbons - should not be used, since polypropylene is not resistant to them, and the walls may float

• It is also necessary to take care of protecting your hands. They will have to work in close proximity to the heating element of the device, and getting a serious burn is as easy as shelling pears.

Suede work gloves are best suited for this task - they practically do not restrict movement, will not begin to smolder from contact with a hot heater, and will reliably protect your hands.

And one more important warning. Most installation work can very often be carried out not locally, but, for example, on a workbench in a workshop - some devices even have special brackets with clamps for secure fixation on the table. This is convenient in the sense that the assembled unit is then quickly installed, for example, in cramped and uncomfortable conditions of a bathtub or toilet.

In any case, wherever soldering is carried out, it is necessary to provide highly effective ventilation. When polypropylene is heated, a gas with a pungent odor is released. The smell is not the worst thing - with prolonged inhalation, serious intoxication can occur. Believe me, I tested it on my own skin. The author of these lines spent a day with a temperature of 39° after seven hours of work in a fairly spacious combined bathroom, with a ventilation vent that seemed to work well. Don't repeat the mistakes!

How to solder polypropylene pipes

General technological methods for welding polypropylene pipes

• First of all, a novice master must have a clear idea of ​​what he is going to mount. Must be prepared detailed diagram-drawing, with dimensions and specific details indicated - this same “document” will become the basis for the purchase required quantity pipes and components.
• If conditions permit, for example, there is no finishing in the room where the installation will be carried out, then it is best to transfer the diagram directly to the walls - it will be more clear, and you can measure the required lengths of pipes literally on the spot.

The key to success is to try to complete the maximum possible number of knots in a comfortable working position, on a workbench. Working with a soldering machine directly on site, and even alone, without an assistant, is an extremely difficult task, and it is very easy to make an error. It is clear that such operations cannot be completely avoided, but their number should be reduced to the possible minimum.

• The soldering machine is getting ready for use. Working pairs - couplings and mandrels of the required diameters for operation - are put on its heater and tightened with a screw. If you plan to work with one type of pipe, then there is no need to be clever - put on one pair, as close as possible to the end of the heater.

There are welding machines with a cylindrical heating element - it has a slightly different fastening of the working elements, like a clamp. But figuring this out is not difficult.

• It will be much more convenient to work if the device is rigidly fixed to work surface workbench. It’s great if the design provides a clamp-type screw for fastening to the edge of the tabletop. But even with a conventional device, you can try to come up with some kind of fixation. For example, if the surface allows, the legs of the stand are screwed to the workbench with self-tapping screws.

Even with the stand fixed, the device can “wiggle” in it - there will definitely be some play. Here, too, you can provide your own fastening - drill a hole and screw in a self-tapping screw. When you need a soldering iron for remote work, removing this mount is a matter of a few seconds.

• The soldering iron is connected to the network. If it has temperature control, then it is set to approximately 260 °C - this is optimal temperature for working with polypropylene. You should not listen to anyone that for the 20th pipe you need 260 degrees, for the 25th - already 270, and so on - increasing. The temperature is the same, the heating time of the mating parts simply changes. In any case, those tables that the manufacturer provides in the product data sheet, and which will be posted below in this article, are designed for exactly this level of heating.
• Usually the soldering iron has a light indicator. A lit red light indicates that it is working. a heating element. Green – the device has reached operating mode.

However, many models have their own display features. Some devices even have a digital display with temperature indication. In any case, the device will “let you know” that it has warmed up to the required level.

• The mating parts are prepared for work - the required piece of pipe is cut off, the connecting element is selected according to the installation diagram.

• Not many people do this, and yet the technology requires mandatory cleaning of the connection area from possible dirt and dust, and degreasing. In addition, even the slightest drops of water or a wet surface are completely unacceptable - water vapor can enter the melt layer, create a porous structure there, and this connecting unit risks leaking sooner or later.
• The next step is to mark the connection. On the pipe it is necessary to measure from the end and mark the length of the penetration belt with a pencil (marker). It is up to this mark that the pipe will be inserted into the heating coupling, and then into the connecting piece. Each diameter has its own value - it will be indicated in the table below.

The second mark is applied if the relative position of the mating parts is important. For example, on one side of a pipe section a 90° bend has already been welded, and on the other side it is necessary to mount, say, a tee, but so that its central channel is located at an angle to the bend relative to the axis. To do this, first accurately determine the position of the parts, and then apply a mark across the border, along both sides.

There won’t be much time spent choosing the correct position during soldering, and such a “trick” will help accurately position the mating parts.

• The next step is directly soldering the connection. It, in turn, also includes several phases:

— From both sides, the pipe is simultaneously inserted into the soldering iron coupling, and the connecting element is put on the mandrel. The pipe must go up to the mark made, the connecting element - all the way.

— After the pipe and connecting element are inserted completely, the warm-up time begins. Each diameter has its own optimal time which should be followed.

— Once the time has expired, both parts are removed from the heating elements. The master has literally a few seconds to give the parts the correct position and, of course, alignment, insert one into the other with force and bring it to the same mark. Light adjustments, without turning relative to the axis, are allowed only for one to two seconds.

— In this position, the parts must be held, without the slightest displacement, for the specified fixation period.

— After this, the assembled unit should not experience any load during the established period of cooling and polymerization of polypropylene. And only then can it be considered ready

Now - about the main parameters that must be adhered to during installation. For ease of perception, they are summarized in a table:

There is no question of reducing the set warm-up time (except for the case mentioned in the note to the table) - a high-quality connection will not work, and the unit will definitely leak over time. But regarding some slight increase, the masters do not have a unified view. The motivation here is that the pipes various manufacturers may differ slightly in material, that is, there are harder or, conversely, soft polypropylene. But the masters have accumulated experience and precise knowledge of the material used, but for a beginner, the recommended indicators should still be taken as a basis.

Good advice - when buying pipes and components - take a small supply of the cheapest connecting elements and conduct an experiment - training. You can prepare a few pieces of pipe and perform test soldering.

With high-quality soldering, a neat collar about 1 mm high is created inside the connecting node around the circumference, which will not interfere with the free passage of water. A neat bead will also be formed on the outside, which will not spoil the appearance of the connection.

pipe cutters

But overheating can already lead to a defective connection. When the parts are combined, molten polypropylene begins to be pressed inward, where a “skirt” is formed and hardens, largely covering the passage. The water pressure in such a water supply may be reduced, and in addition, such a defect often becomes a place for blockages to form over time.

Conducting such a practical lesson will help you accurately determine all soldering parameters and avoid mistakes.

Features of working with pipes with aluminum reinforcement

As mentioned above, there are two options here - the reinforcement layer is located near the surface of the pipe, or deep in the wall. Accordingly, the methods of preparing the pipe for welding also differ.

• It is clear that a layer of aluminum located near the surface simply will not allow for complete heating and connection of the assembly. In addition, such pipes always have a slightly higher diameter and simply will not fit into either the heating coupling or the connecting element. This means that it is necessary to peel off this layer to “pure” polypropylene.

For this, a special tool is used - a shaver. A piece of pipe is inserted into it and they begin to turn - installed knives Carefully sequentially cut off the top polymer coating and the aluminum underneath.

Processing is carried out until the pipe stops at the bottom of the tool - the dimensions of the shaver are such that it will cut the foil exactly in the strip that is required for the welded joint at a given diameter, that is, you don’t even have to carry out the appropriate markings.

When soldering, the entire cleaned area must be heated and then completely inserted into the connecting piece. Leaving even a thin strip of protected pipe outside is prohibited.

• If aluminum foil is hidden in the bottom of the material, then it would seem that it does not allow for high-quality soldering. But there is already another nuance here.

If the pipe is not protected at the end, then water passing under pressure will try to delaminate it and find a way out between the aluminum layer and the outer polypropylene sheath. Aluminum, in addition, can begin to corrode and lose its strength. The result of such delamination first becomes “blisters” on the pipe body, which then inevitably end in a major accident.

The solution is to create conditions such that during welding the end of the pipe and the aluminum layer are completely covered with molten polypropylene. And this can be achieved by processing special tool, which was mentioned above - a trimmer.

Outwardly, it may be similar to a shaver, but its knives are located differently - they precisely align the end, cut a chamfer and remove a thin, about 1.5 - 2 mm from the edge, strip of aluminum foil around the circumference. During heating and during the mating of parts, the created bead of molten polypropylene will completely cover the end of the pipe, and the assembly will receive the necessary reliability.

Pipes with fiberglass reinforcement do not have any installation features.

• The soldering process, as stated, is best carried out on a comfortable, spacious work site, assembling ready-made water supply (heating circuit) units as much as possible, and only then installing and connecting them in place.

Working “next to the wall” is always more complex, time-consuming and nerve-wracking, since you have to hold a fairly heavy apparatus with one hand, while simultaneously providing heating to both mating parts. Often without an assistant this welded joint almost impossible to accomplish. Therefore, it is worth reducing the number of such operations to a minimum.

But it is important to avoid mistakes. To connect the assembly, it is necessary to provide a certain degree of freedom to the mating parts - they need to be moved apart to install a welding machine between them (plus the heating pair also has a certain width), then carefully, without distortion, insert it into the mandrel and coupling, after warming up, ensure progressive removal and then connection. It is necessary to foresee this point in advance - whether the available play is enough to perform all these manipulations.

• It happens that inexperienced craftsmen, having not foreseen this nuance, are faced with the fact that there is only one weld left, and there is no way to complete it. What to do?

The solution may be to weld a dismountable connecting pair into the cut pipe - a threaded fitting and a coupling with an American union nut. The connection turns out to be reliable, and soldering such elements even in such difficult circumstances is no longer difficult.

• If at least some component during installation raises even the slightest doubt, without any regret it should be cut out and other parts welded. Believe me, it won’t take much time and won’t entail serious expenses. But if, over time, such a questionable area suddenly leaks, the consequences can be very sad.
• The next group of errors has already been mentioned above - a violation of pipe soldering technology. This may include insufficient or excessive heating. The force applied to the parts during connection should be moderate. Compressing too hard will cause an inner “skirt” to form. No less dangerous is the insufficient application of force - the pipe does not fully enter the socket of the connecting part, there remains a small area with an increased diameter and a thinned wall - a potential place for a breakthrough!

• Do not forget to clean the welded parts from dirt and grease. This may seem unimportant, but in practice there are quite a few cases where such neglect subsequently resulted in a weak connection and the formation of a leak.
• It is very dangerous to try to change the position of parts during the setting and cooling of the connection. This may not appear outwardly, but microcracks appear in the connecting seam, which subsequently lead to accidents. If you don’t like the connected node, throw it away and make a new one, but don’t try to change it!
• When stripping a reinforced pipe, not even a tiny fragment of foil should remain in the cleaned area - this can become a potential site for a future leak.
• One more recommendation. It is clear that the material must be of high quality - you should not chase cheapness, since you can lose a lot more, especially since even branded polypropylene pipes and components for them are not so expensive. But there are cases when, during the installation of high-quality pipes, carried out in strict compliance with the technology, the connecting nodes nevertheless began to fail over time. And the reason is simple - really high-quality material was used, but from different manufacturers. Seemingly insignificant differences in the chemical composition and physical and technical characteristics of polypropylene gave such an unexpected result - full diffusion of the melts was not achieved.

Therefore, one final piece of advice: use quality pipes one manufacturer. It’s probably clear that all components should also be of the same brand.

At the end of the publication, there is an educational video about soldering polypropylene pipes:

Video: a master shares the secrets of high-quality soldering of polypropylene pipes

Pipes and fittings made of polypropylene can be said to be in trend today. They are used for indoor plumbing and heating wiring and networks inside houses and apartments. The popularity of this material is primarily due to the ease of working with it. Unlike metal pipes, they do not need to be bent with a pipe bender, threaded, or welded. All the labor intensity of this profession became a thing of the past with the advent of such material as polypropylene.
The main tool for working with polypropylene products An electric soldering iron or iron is considered. In the factory kit it is equipped with nozzle sleeves for soldering pipes and fittings standard diameters. They can also be purchased separately. But there are times when, for some reason, a factory soldering iron is not available and there is no way to buy it, and of all the parts, only welding attachments are available. This is where a homemade plumbing soldering iron comes in handy.

This homemade product is one of those “blow, spit, and do the job.” You can literally assemble it on your knees from an old iron and a wooden block. With such a homemade heater you will definitely save the situation and cope with soldering polypropylene pipes. And now we’ll show you how to do it.
What you need to assemble a soldering iron

• An old iron with a working heating sole;
• Wooden block, approximate cross-section 40x50 mm, length 40-50 cm;
• Four self-tapping screws, 3x14-16 mm;
• Sleeve attachments for a plumbing soldering iron with a clamping bolt;
• Power cable with plug;
• Electrical tape, 45 mm self-tapping screws.

The tools you need to have are: a drill or screwdriver with a Phillips head for self-tapping screws, drills with a diameter of 6-8 mm, a grinder or sandpaper, a painting knife, pliers and a hammer.
Assembling a homemade soldering iron for polypropylene pipes
First of all, we disassemble the household iron, disconnecting the soleplate from the thermostats. We won't need the rest of the iron anymore.




Next we prepare wooden block. If necessary, it can be sawed, planed, or simply cleaned on an emery wheel, as the author of the homemade product did (photo).




To secure the bar, we drill several holes on the sole of the iron, in an area free from the heating element. The diameter of the drill should be less than the width of the screw head.




We insert the block adjusted to its cross-section into the groove of the sole and attach it to several screws using a screwdriver and a Phillips bit.




There are bolts at the end of the heater contact group. We drill slot holes for them on both sides of the block, and unfold the contacts with pliers to connect them.




We press the contact plates with several self-tapping screws - press washers.




Not far from the end of the sole, we drill a hole for the clamping bolt for the sleeves. Now you can attach several pairs welding nozzles. We place them on the clamping bolt and tighten them with a hex wrench.




All that remains is to connect the power cable to the contact group, and wrap the contact area on the handle with electrical tape.






The soldering iron is ready for use. Such a device can be used for soldering polypropylene pipes and fittings, making plumbing or heating wiring.




Conclusion
Despite the simplicity of the design, it cannot be considered completely modified. It does not have a heating thermostat with automatic protection. The ergonomics of the tool also leaves much to be desired, because such a device must stand steadily on its edge during operation. However, this homemade device serves as proof that, if desired, even a specialized instrument can be assembled from scrap parts.
Watch the video

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Plastic plumbing has come into our everyday life for a long time. An invariable attribute of the repair of the Soviet housing stock, along with metal-plastic windows, the water supply system was made of polypropylene pipes.

Advantages polypropylene water pipe in front of steel pipes are obvious:

• Cheapness and wide selection of materials;
• Simplicity of work on marking and assembling the most intricate and complex pipe routing options;
• Environmental friendliness, resistance of the material to corrosion and salt deposits on the walls of polypropylene communications.

Those who have encountered the tedious and time-consuming procedure of installing a water supply system from metal pipes can appreciate simple technique connecting plastic using a special soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

If the time has come to renovate the apartment, the problem of replacing the water supply with plastic communications, depending on the availability of desire, money and free time, can be solved:

• Hiring a craftsman and a friend who has experience working with a device for soldering propylene pipes, who can help assemble the pieces marked and cut into a single whole using a soldering iron plastic pipes;
• Transferring the issue of turnkey repairs to a team of repairmen without any desire to understand the intricacies of assembling and soldering plastic components;
• Doing all the work yourself.

The simplicity of assembling plastic soldering is so captivating that it is difficult to resist the temptation and solve the plumbing problem in no other way than to choose and buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes.

The amount of money spent on purchasing the tool will be less than the cost of the specialist’s services, but provided that you really understand how to choose a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes. Essentially, a soldering iron for propylene parts and connecting fittings is a heating element with a thermomechanical or electrical heating control and indication system. Two nozzles are mounted on the heater, allowing you to simultaneously heat the outer surface of the pipe and inner surface fitting. Heating lasts on average about 5 s, the parts are connected with slight manual pressure to set and form a strong connection within 2-3 s. If parts are overheated or connected lopsidedly, some of the molten plastic may get inside the pipe, and as a result, the flow area decreases.

Important ! Doing most of the soldering and assembly work, you are able to personally control the quality of soldering connections of polypropylene pipes.

For innovators and DIY enthusiasts, you can assemble a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes with your own hands. The strength and durability of the soldering depends on the perfection of the soldering iron and how high-quality the polypropylene pipes are.

What is good about a DIY soldering iron?

The operating principle of the soldering iron is simple and uses the principle of adhesion of the soldered surfaces of polypropylene parts heated to the softening temperature. There is not always a need to rewire or resolder half of the wiring water supply networks in the house. Sometimes you need to work with a soldering iron to make two or three connections. In this case, a homemade, do-it-yourself mini-soldering iron for polypropylene pipes from a handy heater can help out.

For someone with experience working with electrical wiring and using plumbing skills, making a small amateur version of a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is a matter of two hours.

As a rule, water pipes are laid in channels and hidden from prying eyes with screens and decor, so you don’t have to worry about beauty and aesthetic appearance. Another thing is important - incorrect temperature adjustment and overheating of the pipe or fitting material, even under slight force, will lead to defects. In soldering, the first and main issue remains the quality of the connection of parts.

If, when working with a homemade soldering iron, you may slightly fall short of world standards of appearance, it doesn’t matter; for amateur cases, this is acceptable.

To assemble a homemade propylene pipe soldering iron you will need:

• The heating element is the soleplate of a conventional electric iron, preferably in the form of a closed aluminum block with a thermostat and electric cord with fork;
• soldering iron attachments for polypropylene pipes and fittings required size for your pipes;
• nickel-plated M8 bolt-nut for attaching nozzles to the heater;
• digital multimeter with external thermocouple thermometer;
• a clamp or other fastening that allows you to securely fix the soldering iron on a utility surface.

In addition to temperature, the speed or power of heating the surface of the parts being joined is important. If heated polypropylene fitting or a pipe for a long enough time - the parts will lose their shape and geometric dimensions under the influence of temperature.

Therefore, to quickly melt a surface with a diameter of 15-30 mm, a power of 700 - 900 W is required, which approximately corresponds to maximum power iron heater.

We assemble a homemade product for propylene couplings:

1. At a distance of 30-40 m from the nose of the aluminum sole, we drill a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm and, using a screw and nut, connect the nozzles for the pipe and fitting to the base of the heater;
2. We install the iron handle on the heater sole so that it does not limit access to the attached attachments;
3. We connect the wiring to the contacts of the iron heater;
4. We turn it on and use a multimeter, a digital thermometer and a regulator on the iron to set the temperature to 265 o C.

We use a clamp to fix a homemade soldering iron of polypropylene pipes, which will allow you to solder parts yourself, without an assistant; the handle can also be made to suit you for the greatest convenience and minimal risk of getting burned.

Which soldering iron is better for polypropylene pipes

It has always been believed that the best tool is professional option, designed for long-term use and with high parameters for soldering propylene pipes. A professional soldering iron for polyethylene pipes requires:

• The use of materials for nozzles that are resistant to prolonged heating, with high thermal conductivity, and that do not stick to the heated surface of the polypropylene part; as a rule, brass or copper tips, coated with Teflon or carbon fiber;
• Easy and convenient change of nozzles on the heater flange; the kit includes a set for the main pipe sizes - from 16 to 160 mm;
• The metallized surface of the nozzles gives high speed heating polypropylene parts;
• The presence of a heater power supply stabilizer and automatic temperature regulation allows you to keep the soldering iron hot for as long as desired without the risk of failure of the heating element.

Mandatory attributes of professional models of soldering irons are an easily removable stand and a case for storing and carrying the device with accessories.

For your information ! U original models soldering irons, unlike counterfeits, markings and information about the model are applied typographically to the body or to a metal substrate plate tightly sealed into the plastic. On fakes, the marking is pasted in the form of a metallized label and is easily separated from the soldering iron body.

For example, the widely known version of the soldering iron for polypropylene pipes is dytron or ditron - as you like. He is highly praised for his reliability and ease of use, unpretentiousness and robust construction. When soldering propylene parts, time passes by seconds; you have to quickly set up, drop or even throw the pin on the stand, and this practically does not affect its performance. There are three models in the DYTRON line:

• Power 850 W, the most popular in apartment renovation, used for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 36 mm;
• Power 1200 W - for polypropylene pipes with a diameter of up to 160 mm;
• With a rod-shaped heater with a power of 650 W.

The soldering iron comes with a key for changing nozzles, which can be from 3 to 12 in a set, scissors for cutting polypropylene pipes, building level, gloves and stand. Despite all the advantages, it is worth noting one negative point - the clearly overpriced soldering iron.

Important ! Such devices are designed for many hours of operation, but in any case, they require careful care. non-stick coating on the nozzles. Teflon is very sensitive to scratches and chips, so you should not use hard or metal objects other than rags for cleaning.

But even specialists involved in soldering water pipes do not always strive to buy a soldering iron for polypropylene pipes in an expensive professional version. Many of the budget models, assembled from Chinese or Turkish components, work just as well as branded models.

Let's take for example a typical workhorse repairman - soldering iron for polypropylene pipes "Soyuz":

• High heater power - up to 2 kW;
• The kit includes six standard nozzles with a diameter from 20 to 63 mm;
• In addition, the soldering iron is equipped with a hexagon wrench for changing the working tool, a stand for the device and a case.

The length of the power cord is only 130 cm, which is clearly not enough for work. But this size is typical for budget models, while professional soldering irons have a full 2.5-3.5 m. The Soyuz is equipped with a two-mode push-button heating control system and two color indicators - green and red, the latter lights up when the heating is turned on automatically.

The soldering iron is equipped with everything necessary for successful soldering of polypropylene pipes, so it’s difficult to say whether it’s worth overpaying for additional accessories, as in the case of expensive models of soldering irons.

Polypropylene pipes, due to their low cost and ease of connection, are used by many owners when installing water supply in an apartment or house. There are many tools for soldering pipes, but not everyone can afford them, so I made a soldering iron from an old electric iron.

On the “sole” from the iron (heating element) (photo 1, item 1) in advance drilled hole Using a bolt on both sides, I secured the heating element for the outer (7) and inner (see photo 2) diameters of the pipes. The heat-insulating casing (photo 1, item 2) and the temperature controller module (3), mounted on a textolite plate (4), were connected to the heating element and installed on a stand (5). PTFE insulators (6) were placed between the casing and the plate.

The aluminum stand securely holds the structure, and the protruding part of the textolite plate is freely inserted into its groove (8) and easily removed, which allows you to conveniently store the device. Wooden handle I attached it to the textolite with self-tapping screws. The temperature controller module was assembled according to the diagram...

When installing a water pipeline, I turn on the soldering iron and set the desired temperature. I insert 25 mm diameter pipes into the heating element on both sides for no more than 5 seconds, take them out and solder them together, connecting the heated ends.

Diagram of a homemade soldering iron for plastic pipes

1. Variable 500 kOhm (R 1)

2. Resistor 4.7 kOhm 0.5 w (R2)

3. Resistor 1 mOhm, 0.25 w(R3)

4. Dinistor DB-3(VS 1)

5. Triac TS 25-4 (VS 2)

6. Thermal electric heater 1000w(T3H)

7. Capacitor 0.1 uF, 400 v(C 1)

8. Neon lamp HL 1 (network indicator)

The temperature controller is mounted in an aluminum case measuring 130x60x90 mm on a board made of foil fiberglass. The control knob is located outside and has divisions. When the device is turned on, the red lamp lights up.

DIY soldering iron for plastic pipes - photo

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Polypropylene pipes are intended mainly for organizing water supply and heating in non-fire hazardous areas. Such a pipeline is easy and quick to install, lasts about 50 years, but it has significant drawback, under the influence of heat, polypropylene softens and is easily deformed. This parameter is important for heating and hot water supply systems, since they undergo dynamic temperature changes, as a result of which plastic pipes change their design position.

Such phenomena are absent when operating a water supply system for cold water. Based on the above, reinforced polypropylene pipes are used for hot water supply. Strengthening of plastic occurs through the use of aluminum foil, fiberglass or increasing the thickness of the walls of the product. Aluminum integrated into polypropylene, which can be placed inside the thickness of the plastic (non-stripping pipe) or outside (stripping pipe), significantly reduces the linear expansion of the pipeline.

Fiberglass gives a similar effect, which allows this type of pipeline to be used for heating. A pipe with thickened walls is used for hot water.

Basic rules for soldering polypropylene pipes

To obtain quality indicators such as the tightness of the welded assembly, maintaining the internal diameter at the junction of parts, aesthetic appearance, etc., the following rules must be taken into account.

The connection area must be dry and free of dirt

Often, in practice, a situation arises when you need to solder a fitting into an existing plastic wiring. Although the pipeline is equipped with a common tap, due to wear and tear, it cannot fully fulfill its purpose. In such situations, water flow instead of connection is inevitable. To eliminate the leak while soldering the elements, you can take the following steps:

Step 1. Shut off the general water supply valve, drain the remaining water into the sewer through the mixer, cut off the pipeline at the junction taking into account the immersion depth, drain the water, dry the area and weld the components. In this case, it is advisable to replace the faulty shut-off valve.

Step 2. You can temporarily stop the flow of liquid by displacing or draining the water column from the pipeline, if the water supply stops for some time (30 seconds is enough). If the leak cannot be stopped, then the internal cavity of the water pipe is sealed with bread pulp, and after welding it is removed through the nearest mixer, but before that, the filter is unscrewed from its drain tube. It is not recommended to use toilet paper as a stopper; it does not come out of the pipeline well.

Do not overheat the connections

Due to excessive overheating, the cross-section of the pipeline decreases, and accordingly the intensity of the water or coolant supply decreases. Overheating can occur as a result of non-compliance with the welding temperature and the holding time of the parts in the nozzle. Table 1 presents data on obtaining a high-quality seam for some pipe sizes.

The soldering iron nozzle must be securely fixed

A loose cue ball while working with parts damages the heating surface of the soldering iron and contributes to the formation of misaligned joints.

After connecting the elements, do not rotate or move them more than 5 degrees

To obtain uniform diffusion, it is advisable not to rotate or align after connection. soldered elements during the hardening time of the seam.

The movement of the workpiece in the cue ball must be straight

Other movements may reduce the strength of the seam. The junction point, of course, will withstand the water pressure in the central line, which is usually in the range of 2 - 3 bar, but at nominal pressure(10, 20, 25 bar) will probably leak liquid.

Features of the stripping pipe connection

Before connecting the stripping pipe, you need to remove the foil layer from it with a special shavings (shaver) to the size of the soldering depth. In the absence of a shaver, the reinforcing layer is carefully cut off stationery knife exactly, over the entire area where the pipe is immersed in the fitting. This method looks unprofessional, but when carefully removed it does not reduce the outer diameter of the polypropylene.

What is needed for soldering

To join pipes and transition elements, you will need the following tools:

• set for soldering pipes (soldering iron, 20 mm nozzle, stand);
• scissors for plastic pipes;
• a simple pencil;
• pipe lever wrenches;
• roulette.

Do-it-yourself soldering of polypropylene pipes using an example

Let's consider the soldering technique and the sequence of installation of additional shut-off valves and a pressure gauge into the existing plumbing system.

These elements participate in the apartment’s backup water supply circuit (water storage tank with pump).

The water tap is installed to switch the water supply position from the central line to the reserve position. The pressure gauge signals the appearance of water in the riser. The unit is quite difficult to integrate into the existing wiring due to limited space when connecting pipes by soldering.

To create such a unit, which is made of polypropylene pipes and transitions with a cross-section of 20 mm, the following material is needed:

1. Angle at 45 degrees. in the amount of 2 pcs.
2. Angle at 90 degrees. -1 PC.
3. Tee - 2 pcs.
4. Connecting coupling - 1 pc.
5. Pipe for cold water - 1 meter.
6. Coupling, internal thread (MRV) 1/2 inch.
7. Bronze transition with external thread 1/2" and internal - 3/8"".
8. Pressure gauge 10 bar.
9. Walk-through tap.
10. Tow and FUM tape.

Tool for soldering polypropylene pipes.

Work order

Using tow and FUM tape, ensure hermetic connection between the pressure gauge, bronze adapter and MRE.

On a soldering iron with a nozzle, set the temperature to 250-260 degrees and turn it on to heat.

After the cue ball heats up, immediately lean the tee against the convex part, and the pipe against the other, with the recess, and begin to feed the parts linearly until it stops.

Mentally count down 7 seconds. During this time, the surface of the parts should melt evenly. At the seventh second, pull the parts out of the nozzle and accurately insert each other into each other until it stops. Hold in this position for four seconds, this is the time when the soldering area remains plastic. Therefore, it is possible to rotate the parts being welded no more than five degrees only in this range.

From the soldered tee, mark a distance of 13 mm on the pipe.

This size corresponds to the depth of immersion of the pipe into the fitting.

Use scissors to cut the pipe according to the mark.

Solder the corner and the pass-through valve so that on the water supply it is placed to a horizontal plane at an angle of about 45 degrees.

Connect the other end of the pass-through valve to a tee, as shown in photo 9.

To the tee, which is located closer to the meter, weld a tube with a 90-degree angle for the pressure sensor.

At the wiring, in the approximate places where parts are soldered, cut the pipes and drain the residual water.

Lean the assembled unit against the installation site and calculate the joining of pipes.

Use scissors to remove excess elements.

At one end of the removed element, which will be connected back to the pipeline, consisting of a pipe and two corners at 90 degrees, we solder coupling. We weld the other part at a certain angle into the tee.

We are calculating how the pipeline will be connected to another section. Based on these data, we assemble a unit from two angles at 45 degrees and pipes. We weld it into the other side of the workpiece tee.

We first connect the resulting product to a pipe located near the sewer.

Then with a flow meter.

Lastly with the mixer pipe and tank supply line.

This sequence is due to the ability to use a soldering iron in places that can be moved after joining adjacent nodes.

We determine the length of the pipe for the pressure gauge, solder it into the MVR and put on the fastener. We apply the resulting product to the corner and mark the location of the fastening on the wall. We remove the pressure gauge and mount it to the wall.

We solder the corner and pressure sensor. We check the tightness of the entire system.

Sometimes soldering polypropylene pipes with your own hands cannot be done by one worker due to inconvenient placement of parts. In this case, it is advisable to solder such nodes together.